Pies, Tarts, Cobblers, and Crisps - How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman

How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman (2016)

Pies, Tarts, Cobblers, and Crisps

It’s no wonder that pies are American classics: They combine common, often seasonal, ingredients with a universally beloved treat— a buttery crust. The techniques are easily mastered, and the results are always satisfying. Tarts, which might be thought of as pie’s European cousins, are generally broader and thinner, always one-crusted, and served freestanding rather than in the pan but otherwise quite similar. And then there is the homey pantheon of cobblers, crisps, and other dough- or crumb-topped fruit desserts: This is a group of desserts that everyone makes. And they are all comforting, quick, and easy. These have two essential building blocks: the filling and the crust or topping. Fillings may be cooked or raw fruit, pudding or custard, airy whipped cream, crunchy nuts, sticky caramel, and much more (including savory fillings; see page 519). Almost any filling can be made into a pie, tart, cobbler, or crisp, depending entirely on the crust or topping you use.

The crust itself depends on fat—usually butter—for flavor and tenderness. A simple piecrust is no more than flour, butter, water, salt, and maybe sugar. Crumb toppings combine butter, flour, sugar, and usually a couple of other ingredients—oats, nuts, and the like—to yield sweet crunchiness. Any crust can be varied to make the finished product rustic or refined, humble or elaborate, a quick dish or an all-day project.

Here you’ll find my best crusts and plenty of fillings to go with them. Mix and match at will, letting the season and market, guided by your mood and your pantry, determine what’s best.

Lastly, see pages 301-305 for wonderful cooked fruit dishes that you might think of as crustless pies. You can tailor a dessert by adding any of them to your choice of crust, or leave them be and garnish with ice cream (pages 309-315) or your favorite sauce (pages 572-588).

The Basics of Pie and Tart Crusts

Crust is often the difference between a so-so pie and something truly remarkable. And dedicated pie makers get better and better at producing flavorful, nicely shaped, and beautifully colored crusts. But it need not take years of trial and error to nail the technique; in fact, you can make really good crusts your first time out—mostly, it’s about butter—and you’ll improve quickly and steadily if you use the right ingredients and techniques.

The two most basic and versatile crusts, Flaky Piecrust and Sweet Tart Crust, are worth practicing and perfecting. The former is quintessentially crisp and buttery and easily rolled out and draped into a pie plate; the latter is sweeter, finer, and more crumbly, to be patted directly into a tart pan. Either can be filled right away or prebaked (see page 258) and are both ideal with most any filling.

With a little practice, you should have no problem producing perfect crusts every time, but if you’re pastry averse, try Cookie Crumb Crust, Meringue Nut Crust, and No-Bake Fruit and Nut Crust, which don’t need to be shaped, chilled, or rolled out.

INGREDIENTS

There are so few ingredients in a basic crust that quality is absolutely vital for each one. The best crusts start with fat—almost always butter—although many other fats have virtues, and as you get more experience you may land on a combination whose flavor and texture you like best. I prefer to use all butter.

Never use a commercial piecrust, which won’t ever be as flaky or good-tasting as homemade and will unquestionably contain inferior ingredients. It takes only a few minutes to mix up a crust dough, and wrapped tightly, it freezes beautifully for weeks or even months, so you can have a batch on hand whenever you need it. If you don’t have time to make a crust from scratch, make a crisp or cobbler instead (pages 297-301).

BUTTER

For a rich, delicious flavor and good color, butter is unbeatable. When you handle it properly—don’t let it get too soft—it yields a very flaky crust that browns wonderfully.

OIL

Oils that are solid at room temperature, like coconut, are the best nondairy substitutes. Liquid oils, like vegetable or even olive, won’t produce that characteristic flakiness, but some make a pleasantly mealy crust that works well for custard or savory fillings or quiches.

LARD

Lard and butter complement each other well, especially for flaky pastry crusts. Lard has less flavor than butter but doesn’t melt as quickly, so a combination strikes a balance between good flavor and texture. Sadly, good lard is hard to find. Look for best-quality lard (leaf lard if possible) at a butcher shop.

SHORTENING

With a high melting point, shortening is easy to incorporate and makes for an especially flaky crust. However, health issues aside, it tastes bad. Don’t use it. Period.

EQUIPMENT

Purists may disagree, but I think a food processor makes pie crusts easy as, well, you know. The results are evenly blended and still quite tender. The process is quick, easy, efficient, and nearly foolproof. You can mix the dough by hand, of course, pinching the butter with flour between your fingers or using various utensils like a pastry blender or two forks or knives.

Pie plates have sloped sides, and 9-inch plates that are about 1¼ inches deep are standard—that’s what you’ll need for most of these recipes. Deep-dish versions have an extra ½ to 1 inch of depth; as long as it’s 9 inches in diameter, a batch of crust will fit in either plate, so you can treat them interchangeably based on what you have. I’ll mention it anytime deep-dish is the better choice.

You can also use springform pans for any pie with a crumb crust and, in a pinch, for tarts, although those are really best baked in shallow tart pans with straight fluted walls and removable bottoms for serving; there is a wide range of sizes for tart pans, from 4-inch tartlet pans for individual servings to 11-inch pans. They are also available as squares and rectangles, which is a nice option if you’re baking for a crowd and would like to cut the tart into squares. For something a little more unusual, try a cast-iron skillet, which makes an especially nice presentation for rustic fruit pies and cooks flaky crusts to an even, deep gold. Cobblers, crisps, and the like (pages 297-301) are even simpler—you need just a square, rectangular, or oval baking dish.

TECHNIQUES

MAKING AND RESTING THE DOUGH

Because you want tenderness, not chew, in these crusts they must be handled minimally; you don’t want the gluten to develop as it does in bread dough. Flaky doughs should still have visible bits of butter in them when they’re formed; tart crusts should be more uniform but still reveal small bits of butter—this will make the crust light. Letting any shaped crust rest in the refrigerator or freezer before you fill it enables the gluten to relax, making for a lighter crumb, and hardens the fat a bit so that it holds its shape and texture in baking. It’s not mandatory, but if your time frame is flexible, you can refrigerate it for up to 2 days for an especially flaky, more deeply browned result; wrap well and you can store disks of dough in the freezer for a couple of months. At a minimum, chill dough for an hour before rolling it out.

ROLLING THE DOUGH

Successfully rolling out chilled dough to a fairly uniform and round crust of about ⅛ inch thickness involves a combination of patience and practice. Ideally you’ll roll the dough out only once (rerolling will toughen it), but at first you may need more than one try.

These tips will make rolling dough easier (see illustrations, below, for more detail):

Rolling Pie Dough

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STEP 1 Roll with firm, steady, but not overly hard pressure, from the inside out, sprinkling with tiny amounts of flour if necessary and rotating quarter-turns as you work.

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STEP 2 You can also roll between two sheets of parchment or plastic wrap, which is sometimes easier. If at any point during rolling the dough becomes sticky, refrigerate it for 15 minutes or so.

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STEP 3 Patch any holes with pieces of dough from the edges.

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STEP 4 When the dough is ready, pick it up using the rolling pin (flour the dough and pin very lightly first).

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STEP 5 Drape it over your pie plate.

BAKING THE CRUST

Prebaking crusts adds a step, but in some cases it’s absolutely necessary (see the following section), and in many others it gives better results. If your pie has a top crust, brush it with an egg wash or a bit of milk to protect it as it bakes and promote an even, golden, beautifully glossy finish. Garnish this with a sprinkling of coarse sugar if you like.

When you’re baking a filled pie, always put it on a cookie sheet; this encourages bottom browning and prevents spillovers from cooking onto your oven floor. If your crust starts to get too dark before the filling finishes cooking, loosely cover it with foil. For a single-crust pie, wrap a ring of foil around the exposed edges; protect a top crust by making a tent of foil over the whole thing.

WHY AND HOW TO PREBAKE CRUSTS

Pie or tart crusts must be prebaked (also called known as “blind baking”) when their filling will not be baked, as with icebox pies (see page 285), and where the bake time is too short for the crust to cook completely and brown properly. Prebaking also minimizes shrinking, helps produce a nicely shaped crust, and avoides sogginess in pies with very moist fillings. Flaky Piecrust, Sweet Tart Crust, and all their variations can be prebaked; Cookie Crumb Crust is always prebaked, as it’s a moist and porous crust that will otherwise become mushy.

Some crusts are partially prebaked, others fully; recipes indicate which. Either way, you need butter, foil, and a cup or two of something heavy and heatproof to prevent the crust from shrinking and bubbling with air pockets while it’s baking: raw rice or dried beans, pennies, or pie weights all work nicely.

Heat the oven to 425°F. Be sure the crust is pressed firmly into the pan, pricked all over with a fork, and well chilled before baking; the fork pricks and hardened butter in the dough will help the crust keep its shape.

Butter one side of a piece of foil large enough to cover the crust; press the foil onto the crust, butter side down. Scatter your weights in an even layer over the foil and bake for 12 minutes; remove the weights and foil. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and continue baking the crust until it starts to develop a golden brown color, another 10 minutes or so. The crust is now partially baked and ready for any filling that you plan to bake.

For a completely baked crust, let it continue to bake, uncovered, until fully golden brown, another 5 minutes or so. Cool the pan on a rack before filling.

Decorating the Crust

Once the dough is in the pan, you’ll want to trim it, and you can also make the edge more attractive or add a top crust or other embellishments. One recipe of Flaky Piecrust makes enough for a double crust; freeze half for another pie if you are making a single crust or roll it out as directed to make a top crust or decorations.

Crimping

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PINCHING METHOD: Pinch the edges of the dough between the side of your forefinger and your thumb.

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KNUCKLE METHOD: Use the thumb and forefinger of one hand to hold the dough in place. Press a knuckle from your other hand against the crust, pushing it into the space made by your thumb and forefinger.

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FORK METHOD: Alternatively, you can simply press down with the tines of a fork along the edges of the dough.

Simple Top Crust

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Use a paring knife or cookie cutter to trim simple shapes from the crust if you want. Place the crust over the filling, trim the edge, and crimp the top and bottom crust edges to seal. If you didn’t cut out shapes, cut a few slits in the crust to let steam escape.

Braided Edge

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Cut the dough into ¼-inch-wide strips and braid three strips snugly together. Repeat until you have four braids; set them on a plate to chill. Brush egg wash around the sides and “glue” the braids all along the perimeter, braiding the loose ends together so they make one continuous braid. Prebake or fill and bake as directed.

Garnish Crust

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Cut the dough into letters or shapes and place directly over the filling so that some of the filling remains exposed; you can also overlay them around the border of the pie.

Tiled Crust

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A tiled crust is a more precise version of a garnished one; time-consuming but stunning. Cut the crust into small shapes—circles or stars work well—and layer them over the filling so they overlap.

Making a Lattice Crust

Cut the dough into strips a couple of inches longer than the pie plate, as thick or thin as you like, of uniform or varying widths. Weave perpendicular strips as shown.

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STEP 1 Cut enough strips to cover the pie as much as you like, depending on the width of each strip. For instance, you’ll need nine 1-inch-wide strips if you want to completely cover a pie in a 9-inch plate.

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STEP 2 Fold back half of the strips laid in one direction and add strips in the other direction.

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STEP 3 Continue weaving the strips over the top of the pie.

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STEP 4 When the weaving is completed, press the edges into the bottom crust and trim.

Recipes

Flaky Piecrust

Vegan Piecrust

Sweet Tart Crust

Cookie Crumb Crust

Meringue Crust

No-Bake Fruit and Nut Crust

Crumb Topping

Flaky Piecrust

Makes: 1 double crust for a 9-inch pie

Time: About 20 minutes, plus time to chill

Because piecrust uses so few ingredients, quality and technique make all the difference in getting a flaky, delicious result. Don’t overwork the dough and keep it cool (see preceding pages for details). See Savory Piecrust for a version designed for vegetable and meat fillings.

1. Use a food processor to pulse together the flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Add the butter and pulse until it is just barely blended with the flour and the butter is broken down to the size of peas. If you prefer to make the dough by hand, combine all the dry ingredients and butter in a large bowl. With your fingertips, 2 knives or forks, or a pastry cutter, work the butter pieces into the flour, being sure to incorporate all of the butter evenly, until the mixture has the texture of small peas.

2. Add 6 tablespoons ice water (not just cold water) to the flour mixture. Process for about 5 seconds or mix by hand with a wooden spoon, just until the dough begins to clump together, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons more ice water if necessary (or a little more flour if you add too much water).

3. Divide the dough in half and put each half into a quart-size plastic zipper bag. Press the dough into a disk by mushing along the outside of the bag until you have a thick disk shape. It’s important not to overheat, overwork, or knead the dough; squeeze it with enough pressure just to hold it together. Freeze the disks of dough for 10 minutes or refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling. If you’re making a single-crust pie, freeze one disk for another time.

4. Dust a large pinch of flour over a clean work surface. Sprinkle a little more flour on top of the dough and dust the rolling pin with flour. Too much flour will dry out your dough; you can always sprinkle on a little more if the dough starts to stick. Using firm but not too hard pressure on the pin, start rolling the dough from the center and outward to form a circle. If the dough feels too hard or is cracking a lot, let it rest for a few minutes. As you roll, add flour as needed and rotate and turn the dough with a spatula to form an even circle.

5. When the dough circle is about 2 inches larger than the pie plate and less than ⅛ inch thick, it’s ready. Roll the dough up halfway onto the pin so it’s easy to move, then center it over the pie plate and unroll it into place. Press the dough into the contours of the dish without squishing or stretching it; patch any tears with a small scrap of dough, sealed with a drop of water. Trim any excess dough to about ½ inch all around.

6. If you’re making a single-crust pie, tuck the edges under themselves so the dough is thicker on the rim than it is inside; if you’re making a double-crust pie, leave the edges untucked for now. Put the pie plate in the fridge until the crust feels cool to the touch before filling or prebaking. For a top crust or embellished crust, roll the second disk into a circle on a flat baking sheet (dusted with flour) and put that in the fridge too; then, when you’re ready to assemble, follow the directions for decorative crusts (page 257).

LARD OR DUCK-FAT PIECRUST Although less flavorful, lard makes for a wonderfully flaky crust (rendered duck fat is also terrific): Substitute ½ cup lard or duck fat for 1 stick of the butter.

WHOLE WHEAT PIECRUST Whole wheat flour absorbs more water than white, so take care: Substitute whole wheat pastry flour for the all-purpose flour. Increase the water to ½ cup, adding more, a tablespoon at a time, until the dough forms.

NUT PIECRUST Delicious: Substitute nut flour of your choice for 1 cup of the all-purpose flour. Toast the nut flour on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes or until fragrant and lightly browned. Proceed as directed.

OAT PIECRUST Crumbly and homey: Substitute ground rolled oats for 1 cup of the flour; run the oats in a food processor until they have the consistency of a fine meal.

PIECRUST COOKIES The perfect way to make sure you waste none of your delicious dough, and a real treat: If you’re using leftover dough, gently press the scraps into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill until cool. Heat the oven to 350°F and combine ¼ cup sugar with 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon. Roll the disk of dough as directed, sprinkle it with the cinnamon sugar, and cut it into circles or other shapes. Bake the cookies on an ungreased baking sheet until golden and tender, about 10 minutes.

BIG PIECRUST For a 10-inch double-crusted pie: Increase the butter to 2½ sticks, the flour to 2¾ cups, the sugar to 1 tablespoon, and the salt to 1½ teaspoons. Start by adding 8 tablespoons of ice water to the flour mixture; after that, add 1 tablespoon at a time as needed until a dough forms.

Prebaking the Crust

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STEP 1
Prick the dough with a fork (called docking) before prebaking; this allows steam to escape so that the crust doesn’t bubble up.

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STEP 2
Line the shell with buttered foil and fill with weights to help the crust hold its shape during baking.

Making Pie Dough

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Pulse the ingredients in the food processor until just barely blended with the flour and the butter is broken down into pieces the size of small peas.

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If you are mixing the dough by hand, use two knives or forks to cut the butter into the flour mixture.

Vegan Piecrust

Makes: 1 double crust for a 9-inch pie

Time: About 20 minutes, plus time to chill

Coconut oil will give you a flaky, tender crust, without butter. The usual rules apply: Work quickly, keep the oil cool and firm, and don’t overwork the dough. Refined oil has a far more neutral, versatile flavor than unrefined.

1. Combine the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse to combine. Add the oil and pulse until it is just barely blended and crumbly. If you prefer to make the dough by hand, combine all the dry ingredients and oil in a large bowl. Use your fingers to work the oil into the flour mixture until it’s just barely blended.

2. Add 6 tablespoons ice water (not just cold water) to the flour mixture. Process for about 5 seconds, or mix by hand, just until the dough begins to clump together, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons more ice water if necessary (or a little more flour if you add too much water).

3. Divide the dough in half and put each half into a quart-size plastic zipper bag. Press the dough into a disk, taking care not to overheat, overwork, or knead the dough; use just enough pressure to hold it together. Freeze the dough for 10 minutes or refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before rolling. If you’re making a single-crust pie, freeze one disk for another time; wrapped tightly, the dough will keep for several months.

4. Dust a clean work surface with a large pinch of flour. Add the dough and sprinkle just a bit more flour over it. Use a rolling pin to firmly and evenly roll the dough, starting in the center and working outward, rotating a quarter-turn each time to make an even circle. If the dough is too stiff, let it rest for a few minutes. Sprinkle a bit of flour on the dough and rolling pin as needed to prevent sticking.

5. When the dough circle is about 2 inches larger than the pie plate and less than ⅛ inch thick, it’s ready. Roll the dough up halfway onto the pin so it’s easy to move, then center it over the pie plate and unroll it into place. Press the dough into the contours of the dish without squishing or stretching it. Trim the excess dough to about ½ inch all around.

6. If you’re making a single-crust pie, tuck the edges under themselves so the dough is thicker on the rim than it is inside; if you’re making a double-crust pie, leave the edges untucked for now. Put the pie plate in the fridge until the crust feels cool to the touch before filling or prebaking, at least 15 minutes. For a top crust or embellished crust, roll the second disk into a circle on a flat baking sheet, dusted with flour, and put that in the fridge too; then, when you’re ready to assemble, follow the directions for decorative crusts.

Sweet Tart Crust

Makes: One 9-inch tart shell

Time: About 15 minutes

Tart shells are generally sweeter than traditional piecrusts and have a finer crumb. They’re the perfect complement for custard and cream fillings especially, as the tighter crumb structure prevents cracks and leaks. I love them for fruit tarts too—the buttery, light sweetness accentuates the flavors of the filling.

1. Use a food processor to pulse together the flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Add the butter and pulse until it has the texture of cornmeal. If you’re making the dough by hand, combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl; then, use your fingertips, 2 knives or forks, or a pastry cutter to mash the butter into the flour mixture.

2. Add the egg yolk and pulse to combine (or use a fork to incorporate it), then pulse in the ice water, adding more ice water as necessary, a tablespoon at a time, until the dough starts to form a ball. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter and knead it until it’s just combined and smooth.

3. Gently press the dough into a generously buttered tart pan, being sure to tuck it into the corners. Trim the dough even with the top of the pan. Freeze the crust in the pan for 20 minutes before baking. To roll out the dough instead, form the dough into a disk and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour. Dust a clean work surface with a large pinch of flour. Add the dough and sprinkle just a bit more flour over it. Use a rolling pin to firmly and evenly roll the dough, starting in the center and working outward, rotating a quarter-turn each time to make an even circle. If the dough is too stiff, let it rest for a few minutes. Sprinkle a bit of flour on the dough and rolling pin as needed to prevent sticking.

4. When the dough circle is about 2 inches larger than the tart pan and less than ⅛ inch thick, it’s ready. Roll the dough up halfway onto the pin so it’s easy to move, then center it over the pie plate and unroll it into place. Press the dough into the contours of the pan without squishing or stretching it. Trim the excess dough even with the top of the pan. Put the tart pan in the fridge for about 30 minutes or freeze for at least 10 minutes, until the crust feels cool to the touch, before filling or prebaking.

CORNMEAL TART CRUST A delicious, rustic crust that’s ideal for jammy fruit fillings: Add ½ cup cornmeal and decrease the flour to 1 cup. Decrease the sugar to 2 tablespoons.

NUT TART CRUST A wonderful base for a Chocolate Tart : Substitute a nut flour of your choice—I like hazelnut or almond—for ½ cup of the flour. Decrease the confectioners’ sugar to 2 tablespoons. If your dough seems a bit dry, add a tablespoon or 2 of ice water to it when you’re kneading.

CHOCOLATE TART CRUST I love a chocolate crust at the bottom of a Berry Tart : Substitute ¼ cup Dutch-process cocoa powder for ¼ cup of the flour.

SPICED TART CRUST A natural pairing for an Apple Tart : Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves into the flour mixture.

COCONUT TART CRUST Add ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut and decrease the flour to 1 cup. Toast the coconut on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven for about 8 minutes, until golden brown. For a tighter crumb, pulse the coconut together with the dry ingredients in a food processor until combined, then add the yolk and pulse a few more times until a soft dough forms.

11 Ways to Flavor Any Pie or Tart Crust

Cookie Crumb Crust

Makes: One 9-inch piecrust

Time: 15 minutes

A fun, flavorful, and easy alternative to the traditional piecrust is to make it from cookies, pretzels, or crackers. Reduce them to crumbs (blitz them in a food processor, or put in a plastic bag and go at them with the smooth side of a meat mallet or a rolling pin) and combine with a little sugar and melted butter; prebaking is essential.

These are even more delicious made with homemade cookies; see my suggestions below.

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Place the cookie crumbs in a large bowl and toss with the sugar. Add the melted butter and mix to combine.

2. Pour the mixture into a pie plate and use your fingers to spread and press the mixture evenly into the dish and up the sides.

3. Bake the crust for 8 to 10 minutes, until slightly browned and fragrant. Let cool completely before filling.

ALL-COCONUT CRUST Just as easy, but chewy instead of crisp and also gluten free; use coconut oil instead of butter to amp up the flavor and make this vegan-friendly: Substitute 1½ cups shredded unsweetened coconut for the cookie crumbs and decrease the butter to 4 tablespoons. Pulse in a food processor for a finer crust if you like.

OATMEAL-COCONUT COOKIE CRUST A fun, flavor-packed twist for Coconut Cream Pie or Grapefruit Icebox Pie : Substitute 1½ cups oatmeal cookie crumbs and ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut for the cookie crumbs; decrease the butter to 4 tablespoons.

GRANOLA PIECRUST A naturally gluten-free crust (as long as you double-check the granola’s ingredients) with all the nutty, buttery, caramelized qualities of the graham cracker version: Substitute plain granola for the graham cracker crumbs. In a food processor, combine the granola and sugar and pulse until crumbly. Add the butter and proceed.

11 Great Crumb Crusts

Any crisp cookie or cracker can become a flavorful crust with an addictive texture. Here are some of my favorite homemade cookies to use; you can substitute the store-bought equivalent if you like.

Making a Tart Crust

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STEP 1
Gently press the dough into a generously buttered tart pan, being sure to tuck it into the corners.

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STEP 2
Alternatively, you can roll out the dough and then use the rolling pin to transfer it to the pan.

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STEP 3
Trim the dough even with the top of the pan.

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STEP 4
To remove the baked tart shell or tart from the pan, simply remove the outer ring.

Meringue Crust

Makes: One 9-inch piecrust

Time: About 30 minutes

The first pie I ever made featured a meringue crust, and it worked wonderfully. They’re awesome, unexpected, naturally gluten-free, and delicious. Fill with anything that doesn’t need to be cooked—any icebox pie filling (pages 285-289). Custards and puddings like lemon curd and chocolate mousse also pair well with this delicate, airy crust.

1. Generously butter a 9-inch pie plate and heat the oven to 350°F.

2. Use a hand-held mixer or a stand mixer with the whisk attachment to beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the cream of tartar, salt, and vanilla and continue to beat until soft peaks form. As you continue to beat the egg whites, slowly add the sugar, a little at a time, to the mixture. Beat until stiff peaks form.

3. Spread the mixture evenly into the bottom and up the sides of the prepared pie plate. Bake for 20 minutes or until the meringue is set and becomes golden. Remove from the oven and let cool completely. Fill the crust either just before serving (if the filling isn’t too thin) or fill and then immediately refrigerate or freeze if you plan to serve the pie cold. Eat within a day.

MERINGUE NUT CRUST Ideal for chocolate fillings: After stiff peaks form, fold in ½ cup finely chopped pecans, almonds, or walnuts.

No-Bake Fruit and Nut Crust

Makes: One 9-inch piecrust

Time: 10 minutes, plus time to chill

The quickest and easiest piecrust, which also happens to be both gluten-free and vegan. (It’s tasty enough to satisfy those with no dietary restrictions.) Gather some dried fruit and nuts, give each a whirl in the food processor, and combine. What you’re left with is a sweet, chewy, no-bake crust; finish with any icebox pie filling (pages 285-289) or your favorite pudding or custard.

1. Use a food processor to pulse the nuts to a fine meal—but not so much that they turn to butter. Place in a large bowl and set aside.

2. Add the dried fruit to the food processer with a couple teaspoons of water and grind until a smooth paste forms. Mix the paste with the nuts until combined. Form the “dough” into a disk and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or wrap well and freeze until you’re ready to use it. Press the mixture evenly into a pie plate then add your filling.

NO-BAKE FRUIT AND COCONUT CRUST Substitute 1½ cups shredded unsweetened coconut for the nuts. You can skip processing the coconut, but processing it will produce a finer texture for the crust.

NO-BAKE FRUIT AND GRANOLA CRUST A crunchier take on the chewy crust: Substitute your favorite granola for the nuts. If your granola is super-clumpy, give it a whirl in the food processor.

Crumb Topping

Makes: 2½ cups, enough for any size pie

Time: 10 minutes, plus time to chill

The easiest pie topping there is and maybe the tastiest—use it for Cherry-Almond Pie or in place of the top crust on any other fruit pie. It also takes the fuss out of fruit desserts (pages 297-301) and allows you to embrace imperfection. Prepare it by hand or in a food processor; adapt the mixture to your taste and to match your fillings.

1. Put the flour, sugars, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl; whisk to combine. Add the butter and use your hands to rub it into the dry ingredients until the mixture becomes clumpy and crumbly and the butter is well incorporated. Refrigerate for at least 15 minutes or up to a week before using.

2. Sprinkle evenly over the top of the pie, crisp, or other dessert, covering the filling. Bake as directed in the recipe.

GLUTEN-FREE CRUMB TOPPING Rice flour makes this very delicate: In place of the all-purpose flour, use ¾ cup rice flour and ½ cup almond flour (see page 15 to make your own). Decrease the brown sugar to ¼ cup.

VEGAN CRUMB TOPPING Decrease the flour to ¾ cup and add ½ cup almond flour (see page 15 to make your own). Decrease the brown sugar to ¼ cup. Instead of butter, use ¼ cup chilled coconut oil and 2 tablespoons neutral oil (such as grapeseed or corn).

OAT CRUMB TOPPING Use this for something a little crisper and heartier: Substitute ½ cup rolled oats for half of the flour and, if you like, maple syrup for the brown sugar.

NUT CRUMB TOPPING A crumble nut topping is perfect for quick breads, muffins, tarts, and pies; apply this to any of the preceding variations too: Omit the granulated sugar and use 1 cup brown sugar. Add ½ cup chopped nuts—like pecans, walnuts, hazelnuts, or almonds, preferably blanched—to the dry ingredients and a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice with the butter. If you like, substitute nut flour for up to half of the all-purpose.

COCONUT CRUMB TOPPING Follow the same instructions for the Nut Crumb Topping, but swap in shredded unsweetened coconut for the nuts. Omit the cinnamon if you like.

12 Things to Add to Crumb Toppings

The Basics of Fruit Pies

Fruit pies are a joyful way to celebrate peak-season produce; avoid making them too sweet or thick so the fruit retains its character. Some berries can be quite tart and will take relatively large amounts of sugar, but perfectly ripe and in-season fruit usually needs very little. You can’t go wrong if you start with ingredients that you’d love to eat raw and keep things simple; see the chart on page 270 for other fantastic additions.

Although frozen fruit has improved greatly in recent years, it tends to become watery as it thaws; increase both sugar and thickener a little when you’re using it to improve winter pies. Usually there is no need to thaw frozen fruit before baking, although if the pieces are large—like peach halves—they should be defrosted enough to slice.

Most fruit pies are double-crusted, and Flaky Piecrust is the classic foundation. There’s also a whole genre of fruit tarts (pages 290-294) in which fruit fills a shorter, crisper crust. Feel free to tinker as you like: Crumb Topping is an easy substitute for the top crust. And you never really need a bottom crust—without one, your pie becomes a cobbler, crisp, or crumble, which is just as tasty.

Recipes

Apple Pie

Pear Galette

Blueberry Pie

Peach or Other Stone Fruit Pie

Mincemeat Pie

Apple Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: 1½ hours

It’s hard to imagine autumn without apple pie. Whether for Thanksgiving dinner or a dessert that lasts all week, this is the classic recipe you’ll turn to again and again when the weather turns crisp. The best pies, of course, are made with the best apples.

This pie is also fabulous with a Crumb Topping, and, if you like, add up to ½ cup finely chopped walnuts to the filling for more texture.

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, spices, and salt. In a large bowl, mix together the apples and lemon juice. Add the dry ingredients to the apples and toss to coat.

2. Layer the apple mixture in the rolled-out pie shell (make sure to pour in any excess juices), then dot with the butter. Cover with the top crust, crimp the edges of the 2 crusts together, then decorate the edges with a fork or your fingers as illustrated on page 257.

3. Put the pie on a baking sheet and brush the top lightly with milk; sprinkle with sugar. Use a sharp paring knife to cut two or three 2-inch-long slits in the top crust; this will allow steam to escape. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce the heat to 350°F and bake for another 40 to 50 minutes or until the pie is golden brown. Check on the pie when it has been cooking for a total of 35 minutes and tent the edges of the crust with aluminum foil to prevent burning. Cool on a rack before serving warm or at room temperature.

PEAR-GINGER PIE This also tastes great as an open-faced pie, with a Cookie Crumb Crust made with gingersnaps: Substitute firm pears for the apples and ginger for the cinnamon. Swap in brown sugar for the granulated sugar just in the filling.

DUTCH APPLE PIE A little cream makes this pie special: Add 2 tablespoons cornstarch or 3 tablespoons instant tapioca to the dry mixture. Proceed as directed, making sure to cut a large vent hole in the center of the top crust. About 30 minutes into the baking time, pour ½ cup cream into the vent hole and finish baking as directed.

CIDER APPLE PIE Intensify the apple flavors for a pie with oomph: Omit the lemon juice. Place the apples and 2/3 cup apple cider in a large pot. Bring the cider to a boil, cover, and cook over high heat for about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain the apples and reserve the cider. Transfer the cider to a small saucepan and, over medium-high heat, reduce it to about ⅓ cup. Add the reduced apple cider back to the apples, let cool completely, then proceed with the recipe.

APPLE PIE WITH CHEDDAR CRUST For a sweet and savory twist—many people swear by this combination; try it with fresh herbs as in the list below: Mix 1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese into the dry ingredients of Savory Piecrust.

SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PIE A decadent, oozing pie: Make the Salted Caramel Sauce in advance. When it comes time to assemble the pie, layer a third of the apple mixture in the pie shell, then drizzle a third of the caramel sauce over it; repeat until the last layer of apples is covered in caramel. Bake as directed.

BROWN BUTTER APPLE PIE The nutty flavor of brown butter doubles the cozy, homey flavor of this classic pie: Decrease the sugar to ¼ cup and omit the spices. Melt 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter over medium heat in a heavy skillet or saucepan, watching closely until the butter smells great and is a nice copper color. Let cool for a couple minutes before adding to the apple mixture.

8 Additions to Apple Pie

Apples are well complemented by ingredients that emphasize their warmth, like nuts, booze, or spices, as well as brighter flavors like berries and citrus:

Pies 1-2-3

Combine a sweet filling and tender crust in any way you like—you can’t go wrong. Some pies and tarts are laden with fruit, others have velvety custards, and still others aren’t baked at all; if you can’t be bothered with rolling out a crust, pile a bit of crumb topping over the filling instead. Here are the building blocks.

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Pear Galette

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

Time: 1 hour

Galettes are free-form, rustic, no-fuss tarts; they look imperfect, but their taste more than makes up for that. See these illustrations for a visual guide.

More formula than recipe, try this with any filling you’re craving at the moment; see 8 Simple Ideas for Free-Form Tarts on the following page and Improvising Fruit Fillings for ideas. This crisp cornmeal crust goes well with pears, but you can also use Flaky Piecrust or Puff Pastry.

1. On a lightly floured surface, roll the crust out into a 10-inch round. Transfer the dough to a baking sheet and refrigerate the dough for at least 15 minutes or until you’re ready to assemble the galette.

2. Heat the oven to 425°F. Arrange the pears on the dough, starting from the inside and moving toward the rim in concentric circles, leaving a 2-inch-or-so border. Brush or drizzle the pears with the melted butter, then fold the edges over the filling and brush the crust with milk. Dust everything with sugar.

3. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the rim is golden brown and the pears have softened. Cool the galette to room temperature before serving.

RED WINE-POACHED PEAR GALETTE An ultra-sophisticated take on an otherwise rustic dessert: Make a batch of Red Wine-Poached Pears, halving the pears instead of leaving them whole. Arrange the pear halves in a circle on top of the dough and drizzle them with the leftover juices. Bake as directed.

PEAR GALETTE WITH BALSAMIC SYRUP Play with sweet and a little bit of savory: While the galette is baking, make Balsamic Syrup. Let the galette cool slightly before drizzling the syrup over it.

APPLE-BUTTERSCOTCH GALETTE Like an undone caramel apple: Substitute apples for the pears. Arrange them as instructed, then drizzle Butterscotch Sauce over them, reserving a bit of sauce for serving.

PEACH-RASPBERRY GALETTE For when summer calls: Omit the pears and melted butter. Pit and slice 3 medium peaches. In a medium bowl, combine them with 1 cup raspberries, 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, 1 tablespoon flour, and ¼ cup sugar. Place the filling in the center of the piecrust and proceed with the recipe.

JAM GALETTE As easy as it gets: Omit the pears, butter, and sugar. Spread 1½ cups jam over the center of the piecrust. If you like, sprinkle a handful of chopped nuts on top for a bit of crunch. You can also spread a thin layer of a complementary jam flavor under any of the preceding galette recipes for an extra layer of sweetness.

Fruit Thickeners

Fruit gives off a lot of juice as it bakes, so thickeners are often added to keep the filling from getting too runny. Every thickener is different, and in general, the softer the fruit, the more thickener you need; frozen fruit also needs a bit more thickener than fresh (an extra ½ to 1 tablespoon). If you like, let the fruit sit with ¼ cup sugar for 30 minutes or so, then drain any excess liquid before adding the thickener; otherwise, just toss powdered thickeners with the fruit until it’s evenly coated.

The suggested quantities are for 5 to 6 cups of filling (about the amount for a 9-inch pie), but remember that this is all a matter of personal preference, so use this guide as a starting point and take notes as you go to achieve your favorite consistency.

THICKENER: All-purpose flour

PROS: Imparts a smooth, velvety texture, especially with heartier fruit like apples or pears, which need less thickener than softer fruit.

CONS: Produces a cloudy, opaque filling; may thin if overcooked or taste starchy if undercooked; too much creates a pasty texture.

HOW MUCH TO USE FOR 5 TO 6 CUPS FRUIT: ¼ cup for hard fruit (apples, pears, etc.); ½ cup for soft fruit (berries, stone fruits, etc.)

THICKENER: Arrowroot powder

PROS: Creates a clear, smooth, neutrally flavored filling; finished pie can be frozen.

CONS: Not ideal for pies with long baking times since it loses potency at higher temperatures; it becomes slimy when mixed with dairy.

HOW MUCH TO USE FOR 5 TO 6 CUPS FRUIT: 1 tablespoon for hard fruit; ¼ cup for soft fruit

THICKENER: Cornstarch

PROS: Creates an incredibly smooth, neutral-tasting filling without the pastiness of flour.

CONS: Must be cooked to remove the starchy, chalky flavor; breaks down relatively quickly and thins out considerably if cooked too long; is less effective with more acidic fruit; becomes spongy if frozen.

HOW MUCH TO USE FOR 5 TO 6 CUPS FRUIT: 1½ teaspoons for hard fruit; 2 tablespoons for soft fruit

THICKENER: Instant ClearJel (modified cornstarch)

PROS: Stable at all temperatures and with acidic ingredients; has a neutral flavor; can be used to thicken raw fruit fillings; won’t break down if the baked pie is frozen and thawed.

CONS: Produces a slightly opaque filling

HOW MUCH TO USE FOR 5 TO 6 CUPS FRUIT: 1 tablespoon for hard fruit; ¼ cup for soft fruit

THICKENER: Tapioca (instant powder, quick-cooking beads, or whole pearls)

PROS: Has a neutral flavor and imparts a lovely high gloss; thickens quickly, so it’s good for especially juicy fillings; finished pies can be frozen.

CONS: The clear, quick-cooking beads should be used only with double-crust pies; if exposed directly to the oven, they may not dissolve completely.

HOW MUCH TO USE FOR 5 TO 6 CUPS FRUIT: 2 tablespoons for hard fruit; ¼ cup for soft fruit. When using beads, let them sit in the filling for at least 30 minutes before baking.

Improvising Fruit Fillings

Bright and sweet, almost infinitely variable, fruit pies are always inviting. These are some of my favorite combinations—from the classic to the slightly more unusual—to help you pick and choose. Add the crust (including puff pastry) and/or topping of your choice to turn it into a pie, tart, galette, cobbler, crisp, pandowdy, or brown betty. Or, on a really lazy day, omit the crust or topping, bake the prepped fruit filling in a pie plate or baking dish, and serve with Whipped Cream or vanilla ice cream.

Aim for 5 to 6 cups’ worth of prepared fruit for a double-crust pie or crisp or cobbler; a little less for a tart or galette. Some fruit can be added raw to a baked crust and is good to go, while others should be cooked, with or without a thickener this chart will give you all of your options.

FRESH FRUIT: Apples

PREP: Peel, core, and chop or slice; toss with 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup raisins or dried cranberries; ½ cup chopped pecans or walnuts; 2 tablespoons bourbon; 1tablespoon minced fresh ginger; 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme; 1 teaspoon cinnamon or ginger; ½ teaspoon cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, and/or allspice

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with flour or cornstarch)

FRESH FRUIT: Bananas

PREP: Cut into ¼- to ½-inch slices

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup chopped walnuts or peanuts; ¼ cup honey; 2 tablespoons rum; 1 tablespoon vanilla extract; 1 teaspoon cinnamon

HOW TO USE: Cooked or raw

FRESH FRUIT: Berries (blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, strawberries) and/or currants

PREP: Hull and chop if necessary

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup raisins or dried cranberries; ¼ cup chopped fresh mint, basil, or tarragon; ¼ cup fruity red wine; 2 tablespoons Chambord or Grand Marnier; 1 tablespoon grated lemon or lime zest; 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger; 1 tablespoon vanilla extract; 1 tablespoon orange blossom water or rose water; ½ teaspoon cinnamon

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with cornstarch, arrowroot, or tapioca) or raw

FRESH FRUIT: Cranberries

PREP: Add at least ¾ cup sugar or maple syrup

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ¼ cup fruity red wine; 2 tablespoons bourbon, rum, or Grand Marnier; 1 tablespoon grated orange zest; 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger; 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary; 1 teaspoon cinnamon or ginger; ½ teaspoon nutmeg, cloves, and/or allspice

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with cornstarch, arrowroot, or tapioca)

FRESH FRUIT: Figs

PREP: Chop

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup chopped pistachios or pine nuts; ¼ cup fruity red wine; ¼ cup honey; 1 tablespoon grated orange or lemon zest; 1 tablespoon vanilla extract; 1 tablespoon orange blossom water or rose water; 1 teaspoon cinnamon; ½ teaspoon cardamom

HOW TO USE: Cooked or raw

FRESH FRUIT: Pineapple

PREP: Peel, core, and chop or slice

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut; ¼ cup chopped fresh mint; 2 tablespoons rum; 1 tablespoon grated orange or lime zest

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with cornstarch, arrowroot, or tapioca) or raw

FRESH FRUIT: Mangoes

PREP: Peel, pit, and chop or slice

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut; ½ cup chopped macadamia nuts; ¼ cup chopped fresh mint; ¼ cup honey; 2 tablespoons rum or Grand Marnier; 1 tablespoon grated orange or lime zest; 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger; ½ teaspoon cardamom and/or cinnamon

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with cornstarch, arrowroot, or tapioca) or raw

FRESH FRUIT: Oranges or grapefruit

PREP: Peel, seed, and remove the pith if you like

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ¼ cup chopped fresh mint; 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier; 1 tablespoon grated orange or grapefruit zest; 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger; 1 tablespoon vanilla extract; 1 tablespoon orange blossom water or rose water; ½ teaspoon cardamom and/or cloves

HOW TO USE: Raw

FRESH FRUIT: Peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots, or cherries

PREP: Pit and chop or slice

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup chopped pistachios, almonds, or pecans; ¼ cup chopped fresh mint, basil, or tarragon; ¼ cup honey; 2 tablespoons minced fresh rosemary or thyme; 2 tablespoons bourbon; 1 tablespoon grated lime zest; 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger; 1 tablespoon vanilla extract; 1 teaspoon cinnamon; ½ teaspoon almond extract; ½ teaspoon cardamom or cloves

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with cornstarch, arrowroot, or tapioca) or raw

FRESH FRUIT: Pears

PREP: Peel, core, and chop or slice; toss with 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): ½ cup raisins or dried cranberries; ½ cup chopped almonds; 2 tablespoons bourbon; 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger; 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary; 1 teaspoon cinnamon or ginger; ½ teaspoon almond extract; ½ teaspoon cardamom, nutmeg, cloves, and/or allspice

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with flour or cornstarch)

FRESH FRUIT: Rhubarb

PREP: Chop into ½-inch pieces; add at least 1 cup sugar

ADDITIONS (CHOOSE ONE OR MIX AND MATCH A FEW): Any berries, on their own or seasoned as suggested on the previous page

HOW TO USE: Cooked (thickened with cornstarch)

Blueberry Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

If your berries are perfectly ripe and in season, use the lesser amount of sugar, keep the spices to a minimum, and let the berries shine. (Add more if they’re not at their peak.) This can also be paired with Crumb Topping instead of a top crust.

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Gently toss the blueberries with the sugar, cornstarch, salt, and spices. Stir in the lemon zest if you’re using it and the juice and pile into the rolled-out shell, making the pile a little higher in the center than at the sides. Dot with the butter.

2. Cover with the top crust. Crimp and decorate the edges with a fork or your fingers, using any of the methods illustrated on page 257.

3. Put the pie on a baking sheet and brush the top lightly with milk; sprinkle with sugar. Use a sharp paring knife to cut two or three 2-inch-long slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce the heat to 350°F and bake for another 40 to 50 minutes or until the pie is golden brown. Do not underbake. Cool on a rack entirely, about 1 hour, before serving to let the filling set. Serve warmed up or at room temperature.

BLUEBERRY-LEMON PIE For a bit more zing: Use all the zest and juice from the lemon.

MIXED BERRY PIE Empty out your fridge: Use a total of 5 cups of berries, in any combination you like, making sure to remove stems and seeds when needed. Use 3½ tablespoons cornstarch. If your berries aren’t very sweet, be sure to add a bit more sugar too.

STRAWBERRY, RHUBARB, OR STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB PIE Use a total of 5 cups of fruit, in any combination you like. String rhubarb, then cut it into 1-inch pieces. Hull the strawberries; slice in half or leave whole. If you’re using rhubarb, use at least 1 cup sugar. Use 3 tablespoons cornstarch or ¼ cup instant tapioca as thickener. Omit the lemon juice and zest.

BLACKBERRY AND RED WINE PIE Red wine is the secret weapon in this sophisticated pie: Mix ½ cup fruity red wine with the sugar, cornstarch, salt, spices, lemon juice, and zest if using. Swap blackberries for blueberries, pour the wine mixture over them, and simmer over medium heat until the mixture thickens and the liquid becomes syrupy, 30 to 45 minutes. Proceed as directed.

RASPBERRY-LIME PIE Substitute raspberries for the blueberries and 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice and 1 tablespoon grated lime zest for the lemon juice and zest.

All About Galettes

These simple and rustic tarts are baked free-form, without a tart pan. Called galettes in France and crostatas in Italy, these can be made with sweet or savory dough and fillings (see page 519 for some savory options). Start with Flaky Piecrust, Sweet Tart Crust, any of their variations, or puff pastry, then try any of the ideas below for a pastry as adaptable as it is accessible.

Making a Galette

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STEP 1
Roll out your chilled dough. Don’t worry about making it perfect, as long as it’s evenly thick; uneven edges are part of the appeal. Chill for at least 15 minutes.

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STEP 2
Add the filling, arranging or spreading it to just an inch or two from the edge.

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STEP 3
Fold the edges over part of the filling, pleating them so they remain in place to contain any errant juices.

8 Simple Ideas for Free-Form Tarts

▪ Put a layer of crushed nuts, coarse sugar, graham cracker crumbs, or shredded coconut under the fruit, particularly if the filling is especially juicy so that the bottom layer can soak up some of the liquid.

▪ Combine the melted butter with 2 tablespoons honey before brushing it over the fruit.

▪ Toss the fruit with 1 teaspoon or more cinnamon, ground ginger, and/or minced candied ginger.

▪ Spread a thin layer of goat cheese, cream cheese, Caramel Sauce, or your favorite jam (see page 575 for homemade) under the fruit.

▪ Macerate the fruit with ¼ cup Simple Syrup or your favorite liqueur and thoroughly drain it before adding to the crust.

▪ Toss the filling with 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh herbs, like rosemary or thyme, or grated citrus zest.

▪ Top the fruit filling with ½ cup Crumb Topping before baking.

▪ Garnish baked galettes with a dollop of mascarpone or Whipped Cream, a drizzle of Fruit Sauce or Chocolate Ganache Glaze, or a scoop of ice cream.

Peach or Other Stone Fruit Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

Perfectly ripe fruit is crucial to the success of this pie, and it’s hard to beat peaches, nectarines, or apricots, all interchangeable. (Or look at the variations for other fruits and flavors.)

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Peel the peaches (see page 33). Pit, slice, and toss with the lemon juice.

2. Mix together the dry ingredients (plus the almond extract if you’re using it) and toss the peaches with this mixture. Pile into the rolled-out shell, making the pile a little higher in the center than at the sides. Dot with the butter. Cover with the top crust. Crimp and decorate the edges with a fork or your fingers, using any of the methods illustrated on page 257.

3. Put the pie on a baking sheet and brush the top lightly with milk; sprinkle with sugar. Use a sharp paring knife to cut two or three 2-inch-long slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce the heat to 350°F and bake for another 40 to 50 minutes or until the pie is golden brown. Do not underbake. Cool on a rack before serving warm or at room temperature.

PEACHES AND CREAM PIE Rich, sweet, classic: Start with half a batch of Flaky Piecrust, fitted into the pie pan. Partially bake the crust (see page 258) and let cool completely before filling. Omit the lemon juice, spices, and butter. In a medium bowl, beat 2 eggs lightly, then add the sugar and 2 tablespoons cornstarch with ¾ cup cream. Place the peaches in the pie plate, then pour the cream mixture over them. Crimp the crust and top with milk and sugar; bake at 450°F for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375°F and bake for another 30 to 40 minutes at 375°F, until the mixture shakes like Jell-O but is still quite moist.

PEACH-RASPBERRY PIE Add 1 cup raspberries to the mixture of peaches or other fruit. Blueberries are another classic pairing.

PEACH-GINGER PIE Add 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground to the mixture (use the cinnamon and nutmeg; do not use the almond extract).

CHERRY PIE Tart cherries are best for pie: Substitute 4 to 5 cups pitted sour cherries for the peaches; omit the lemon juice. If you use canned tart cherries, drain them well and increase the thickener by 1 tablespoon.

CHERRY-ALMOND PIE Tart cherries are balanced by the earthy almond flavor and an irresistible crumb topping: Swap out the peaches for 4 to 5 cups of pitted tart cherries and use almond extract instead of the spices. Top the pie with Nut Crumb Topping using almonds in place of the top crust.

CHERRY-BOURBON PIE A bit of kick: Use 4 to 5 cups of pitted tart cherries and add ⅓ cup bourbon to the pie filling mixture. Omit the lemon juice.

CHERRY CUSTARD PIE Total luxury: Start with half a batch of Flaky Piecrust, fitted into the pie pan. Bake the crust completely, and let cool before filling. In a medium bowl, beat together 3 eggs, 1 cup cream, the sugar, and the spices. Omit the lemon juice, cornstarch, and butter. Place 4 cups pitted tart cherries in the pie shell and pour the egg mixture over them. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes at 375°F or until the mixture shakes like Jell-O but is still quite moist.

PLUM PIE Delicate and delicious: If possible, use the small prune (Italian) plums that come into season in early autumn.

Mincemeat Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

Full of sweet dried fruit, apple, cinnamon, and brandy, this English classic is fruitcake in a pie. Historically, mincemeat did include finely chopped meat or suet, hence the name, but this version is more appealing. Use any combination of dried fruit you like. Add some chopped candied fruit peel for even more zing. Top with Hard Sauce.

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. In small batches, use a food processor to pulse the apples until they are in small pieces. Add them to a large saucepan, then pulse the dried fruit into small pieces in the food processor.

2. Add the dried fruit to the saucepan with the apples along with the brown sugar, brandy, cornstarch, butter, orange zest, spices, and salt. Simmer over medium-low heat, keeping a close eye on it and stirring until the mixture becomes very thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely.

3. Place the pie plate on a baking sheet, then fill the shell with the fruit filling. Cover the pie with the top crust, crimping the edges with your fingers or the tines of a fork using any of the methods on page 257. Use a sharp knife to make small incisions all over the top of the piecrust in a decorative pattern.

4. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake for about 15 minutes; reduce the heat to 350°F and bake for another 45 minutes to an hour until the filling is bubbling and the crust is golden brown. Cool on a rack completely for the filling to set and rewarm before serving.

The Basics of Custard Pies

The common thread among all custard pies, from smooth Vanilla Cream Pie (this page) to nut-studded Pecan Pie, is the inclusion of eggs, which lend characteristic thickness and creaminess to the baked filling. For best results, make sure all filling ingredients are at room temperature, unless directed otherwise. And make the filling only when you’re ready to add it to the crust; otherwise, as the sugar and eggs interact, they may start to lose their smoothness.

Recipes

Vanilla Cream Pie

Lemon Meringue Pie

Key Lime Pie

Pumpkin Pie

Pecan Pie

Mississippi Mud Pie

Buttermilk Pie

Chess Pie

Maple Pie

Shoofly Pie (Molasses Pie)

Vanilla Cream Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours, plus time to chill

Learn this basic recipe and the sky is the limit for variations. Although it’s called “cream pie,” it’s actually best made with whole milk; cream leaves the texture too thick and with a less pleasant mouthfeel. While the classic pie is topped with meringue, you can use Whipped Cream if you’d rather; in that case, skip the baking and put the pie straight into the fridge to set.

1. Bake the flaky piecrust completely (see page 258) or bake the crumb crust as described in the recipe. Start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is done, leave the oven at 350°F and cool the crust slightly on a rack. In a small saucepan, combine the granulated sugar with the cornstarch and a pinch of salt.

2. Mix the egg yolks and milk together. If you’re using a vanilla bean, split it and scrape the seeds into the milk mixture. Stir the milk-egg mixture into the sugar-cornstarch mixture over medium heat; at first, whisk occasionally to eliminate lumps. Then whisk almost constantly until the mixture boils and thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Stir in the butter (and vanilla extract if you’re using it) and set aside.

3. Make the meringue: Beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until foamy. Keep beating, gradually adding the confectioners’ sugar, until the mixture is shiny and holds fairly stiff peaks.

4. Pour the warm filling into the crust. Cover with the meringue, making sure to spread the meringue all the way to the edges of the crust; this will keep it from shrinking. As you spread the meringue, make peaks and swirls if you like. Put the pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet to prevent drips and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the meringue is lightly browned. Cool on a rack, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours; serve cool.

CREAM-TOPPED CREAM PIE If you love whipped cream, this version works for the main recipe or any of its variations: Use only 2 eggs and add the whole eggs to the filling. After pouring it into the baked shell, press a sheet of plastic wrap right on the surface of the custard (this will prevent a skin from forming) and refrigerate until cool, at least 1 hour. Top with whipped cream, spiked, if you like, with ½ teaspoon vanilla or almond extract or a shot of brandy or rum.

BANANA CREAM PIE For the custard, use 2 whole eggs instead of 4 yolks and increase the butter to 3 tablespoons. Stir 1 cup thinly sliced banana into the filling just before pouring it into the pie shell. Top with a thick layer of whipped cream instead of meringue and refrigerate right away. Alternatively, prepare Bananas Foster and let cool a bit before spreading it in an even layer over the crust; top with the vanilla custard and whipped cream.

CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE Bittersweet chocolate works best: Add 2 ounces chopped or grated dark chocolate to the milk mixture as it cooks.

TRIPLE-CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE Over the top, if you like it that way: Substitute Cookie Crumb Crust made with chocolate wafer cookies for the Flaky Piecrust and use the Chocolate Cream Pie variation filling above. Add 3 tablespoons cocoa powder to the meringue along with the confectioners’ sugar.

MOCHA CREAM PIE A bit more sophisticated: Substitute Cookie Crumb Crust made with chocolate sandwich cookies or wafer cookies for the Flaky Piecrust and use the Chocolate Cream Pie variation filling, adding 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder to the sugar mixture in Step 1.

GINGER CREAM PIE Lightly spicy: Substitute Cookie Crumb Crust made with gingersnaps for the Flaky Piecrust. Add ½ teaspoon ginger and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon to the sugar mixture in Step 1.

ALMOND BANANA CHOCOLATE CREAM PIE For those who like many strong flavors: Use the Banana Cream Pie variation with the Chocolate Cream Pie filling. Substitute 1 teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla extract. Stir ⅓ cup chopped almonds into the chocolate cream with the butter in Step 2.

COCONUT CREAM PIE A classic: Toast 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut by placing it in a dry skillet over very low heat and cooking, shaking almost constantly, until it begins to brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately remove from the pan and stir into the thickened Vanilla Cream Pie filling. Add a drop of almond extract to the meringue along with the confectioners’ sugar. Top the meringue with ½ cup untoasted coconut before baking.

ORANGE CREAM PIE Your favorite hot-weather treat in the form of a pie: Substitute ½ cup fresh orange juice for ½ cup of the milk and add 1 tablespoon grated orange zest; add both to the milk mixture in Step 2. Proceed with the recipe.

EGGNOG CREAM PIE This pie screams Christmas: Use a Cookie Crumb Crust made with Speculaas (to make your own) in place of the Flaky Piecrust. Substitute eggnog for 1 cup of the milk. Add ½ teaspoon nutmeg to the sugar mixture. If you like, stir 2 to 3 tablespoons rum into the egg and milk mixture.

ADAPTING RECIPES

Making Hand Pies

Hand pies are a fun variation on pie that travels well. Because the baking time is so much shorter, however, you’ll need to thicken the filling to keep it from leaking out of the crust. To make them, roll out Flaky Piecrust and cut it into 5-inch squares. Brush the edges with egg wash. Cut any fruit pie filling recipe in half and add ½ teaspoon cornstarch. Bring the filling to a boil in a saucepan, stirring often, then stir in ½ cup chopped dried fruit to soak up excess liquid. Let cool. Spoon about ¼ cup filling into the center of each square and fold in half; pinch the edges to seal. Poke holes with a fork to let steam escape, brush with milk or egg wash, and dust with sugar. Bake at 375°F for 30 to 35 minutes, until golden and crisp.

Lemon Meringue Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 45 minutes, plus time to chill

Light but powerful, Lemon Meringue Pie highlights its smooth, tart filling with a cloud of sweet meringue on top. As with Vanilla Cream Pie, you can skip the meringue topper, use Whipped Cream, and skip the final baking step altogether.

1. Bake the flaky piecrust completely or bake the crumb crust as described in the recipe and start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is done, leave the oven at 350°F and cool the crust slightly on a rack.

2. In a small saucepan, combine the granulated sugar, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and the boiling water and cook, stirring frequently until the sugar dissolves, just a minute or 2; keep warm. Beat the egg yolks and cornstarch until smooth. Whisk about ½ cup of the sugar mixture into the egg yolks. Immediately stir the egg yolk mixture back into the sugar mixture and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Keep whisking and let it boil for less than a minute, then turn off the heat and add the butter. Stir in the lemon zest and juice. Set aside.

3. Make the meringue: Beat the egg whites with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt until foamy. Keep beating, gradually adding the confectioners’ sugar, until the mixture is shiny and holds stiff peaks.

4. Pour the filling into the crust and cover with the meringue, making sure to spread it all the way to the edges of the crust to keep the meringue from shrinking. As you spread the meringue, make peaks and swirls if you like; you could also pipe the meringue onto the filling for a more refined look. Put the pie plate on a rimmed baking sheet to prevent spills and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the meringue is lightly browned. Cool on a rack, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours; serve cool.

LEMON MERINGUE WITH CREAMY FILLING Richer: Instead of water, use 2 cups warmed cream, half-and-half, or milk.

LEMON-MARSHMALLOW MERINGUE PIE Like a citrusy s’more: Substitute Fluffy Marshmallow Filling for the meringue and use Cookie Crumb Crust made with vanilla wafers.

LEMON-BERRY PIE Quite a beauty: Skip the meringue, press a sheet of plastic wrap onto the surface of the filled pie to prevent a skin from forming, and refrigerate until the filling is cold, at least 2 hours. Top with ½ cups mixed whole berries, like raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries, cut into smaller pieces if they’re big. Serve each slice with a dollop of Whipped Cream.

LIME MERINGUE PIE For an even tarter twist: Substitute lime zest and juice for the lemon zest and juice.

Key Lime Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 45 minutes, plus time to chill

I love the contrasts of Key Lime Pie: the smooth, tart filling balanced by the sweet crunch of graham cracker crust. Regular (Persian) limes will do here, but if you come across the smaller key limes, by all means use them. Don’t bother with bottled Key lime juice, though, it tastes bottled. If you prefer Whipped Cream to meringue, bake the filling until it’s just set, refrigerate until completely cooled, and top with the whipped cream immediately before serving.

1. Bake the crust completely as directed in the recipe and start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is done, leave the oven at 350°F and cool the crust slightly on a rack.

2. Beat the egg yolks just until combined. Beat in the condensed milk, then the lime juice, a little at a time; the mixture will thicken. Put the pie plate on a baking sheet. Pour the filling into the warm crust and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the filling is just firm; check at 10 minutes as this pie bakes fast. Remove and cool on a rack while you make the meringue.

3. In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites and salt with an electric mixer until foamy. Keep beating, gradually adding the confectioners’ sugar, until the egg whites are shiny and hold fairly stiff peaks.

4. Cover the pie with the meringue, making sure to spread the meringue all over the filling to the edges of the crust; this keeps the meringue from shrinking as it bakes. As you spread the meringue, make peaks and swirls if you like. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the meringue is lightly browned. Cool on a rack, then refrigerate for at least 1 hour; serve cool.

CHOCOLATE KEY LIME PIE For those who believe there’s no such thing as dessert without chocolate: Either drizzle the finished pie with Rich Chocolate Sauce when serving or make the crust using chocolate wafer cookies.

ORANGE PIE WITH ALMOND TART CRUST Substitute a Nut Tart Crust made with almonds for the Cookie Crumb Crust. Replace the lime juice with the juice and zest of 2 large oranges.

Meringue-Topped Anything

Tall and billowing, meringue topping is more than a handy way to use up leftover egg whites: it’s also a delicious and visually stunning way to complete any pie. It’s best with custard pies, where it offers a great textural contrast with the thick, dense filling, but nothing’s stopping you from adding it to, say, Blueberry Pie or even a tart if the spirit moves you. Remember, though, that the meringue can be in the oven for only about 15 minutes, so it needs to be added to a pie with a cooked filling and short bake time or applied to the pie close to the end of its baking time.

No matter where you add it, the technique is the same: Beat 4 egg whites with a pinch of salt until the mixture is frothy. Continue beating as you gradually add ¼ cup confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, and beat until the mixture is glossy and holds stiff peaks. Pile the meringue over the filling so that the pie is completely covered to the edge; this will keep the meringue from shrinking. You can use a spatula or spoon to make pretty dips and swirls or use a pastry bag to pipe it in a design. Bake as the recipe directs until the meringue is lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Cool before serving.

Pumpkin Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

A foolproof fall favorite, equally good with squash purée and best served with a dollop of Whipped Cream spiced with nutmeg, cinnamon, or ginger.

1. Bake the crumb crust as described in the recipe or partially bake the flaky piecrust. Start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is done, turn the oven up to 375°F and cool the crust slightly on a rack.

2. Use an electric mixer or a whisk to beat the eggs with the sugar, then add the spices and salt. Mix in the pumpkin purée and then the half-and-half.

3. Put the pie plate with the crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the crust all the way to the top (you might have some left over). Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the mixture is firm along the edges but still a bit wobbly at the center. Cool on a rack until it no longer jiggles, then slice into wedges and serve, or refrigerate for a day or 2.

PUMPKIN PIE WITH CRUMBLE TOPPING Bake the pie with no topping for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, top with Crumb Topping, and finish baking.

SWEET POTATO PIE A hint of orange takes this pie to new heights: Substitute puréed cooked sweet potato for the pumpkin and add 2 teaspoons grated orange zest.

PUMPKIN-TOFU PIE Use ½ recipe Vegan Piecrust for an all-vegan dessert: Substitute 1 pound silken or other soft tofu for the eggs and half-and-half. Drain the tofu, purée it with the other ingredients, then pour into the crust and proceed with the recipe.

CANDIED GINGER PUMPKIN PIE Add a hint of sweet spice: Sprinkle ⅓ cup chopped candied ginger over the filling before baking.

PUMPKIN PRALINE PIE A pumpkin-pecan pie crowd pleaser: While the pie bakes, combine ¾ cup chopped pecans, ¼ cup packed brown sugar, a pinch of salt, and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Sprinkle over the baked pie and return to the oven for 5 to 8 minutes or until the topping is toasted and fragrant.

CHILE PUMPKIN PIE WITH CARAMEL SAUCE The subtle heat of chipotle powder gives this pie a mysterious heat. (And who doesn’t love Caramel Sauce?) Add ½ teaspoon chipotle powder with the other spices. Make a batch of Caramel Sauce and drizzle it over the pie slices to serve.

MARBLE PUMPKIN-CHOCOLATE PIE A beautiful way to incorporate chocolate into pumpkin pie: Melt 4 ounces dark chocolate and let cool. Reserve 1 cup of the pumpkin filling and stir the chocolate into it. Pour the plain pumpkin filling into the crust (about three-quarters full) and dollop it with the chocolate filling. Using a knife or a toothpick, swirl the chocolate in large figure-eight motions. Do not overswirl or the effect will be lost. Bake as directed.

MARBLE PUMPKIN-CREAM CHEESE PIE A refreshing dose of tartness cuts through the warm spices: Make a batch of Cream Cheese Filling from the Chocolate-Cream Cheese Swirl Cake variation. Pour the pumpkin filling into the crust (about three-quarters full), then swirl the cream cheese filling into the pumpkin as instructed in the Marble Pumpkin-Chocolate Pie above.

PUMPKIN MERINGUE PIE WITH GINGERSNAP CRUST A meringue topping makes this exotic: Use a Cookie Crumb Crust made with gingersnaps. Bake the pie as directed, then let cool completely (you can speed this part up in the fridge). Make meringue as described and pile it over the top of the pie, making sure to spread it all the way to the edges of the crust. Set the pie plate on a cookie sheet and bake at 425°F for 6 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned.

Pecan Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1½ hours

There is a reason Pecan Pie is a classic: It’s a standout—rich and sweet and nutty. I’ve bucked tradition and made it without corn syrup. White and brown sugar give you a denser result. Top with ice cream or Whipped Cream.

1. Partially bake the crust meanwhile, toast the pecans in a dry skillet, shaking and stirring, for about 5 minutes or until the pecans are hot. Cool the pecans and coarsely chop.

2. Start the filling while the crust is in the oven. In a medium saucepan, beat the eggs well until foamy. Beat in the sugars, salt, and melted butter. Warm this mixture over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until hot to the touch; do not boil. When the crust is done, turn the oven up to 375°F.

3. Stir in the vanilla and pecans. Put the pie plate on a baking sheet. Pour the filling into the still-hot crust and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the mixture shakes like Jell-O but is still quite moist. Cool on a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

BOURBON-PECAN PIE A sweet pie with a kick: Substitute ¼ cup bourbon for the vanilla extract.

SYRUPY PECAN PIE For those who prefer to use corn syrup: Substitute 1 cup light corn syrup for the granulated sugar.

COFFEE-PECAN PIE For a second wind—and perhaps a second slice: Add 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder with the vanilla.

CHOCOLATE-PECAN PIE The added step for chocolate lovers: Before beginning Step 2, melt 2 ounces dark chocolate with 3 tablespoons butter until smooth. Let cool while you beat the eggs, sugars, and salt (omit the remaining butter). Combine the chocolate and egg mixtures and warm gently as in Step 2, then proceed as directed.

BUTTERSCOTCH-PECAN PIE Extra sugary and caramelly: Use 4 eggs, 1 cup brown sugar, and add ¾ cup cream. Omit the granulated sugar. Add the cream with the sugar and butter in Step 2 and proceed as directed.

CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT PIE Make the Chocolate-Pecan Pie variation above, but substitute hazelnuts for the pecans.

CARAMEL-PEANUT PIE This is really killer: Substitute peanuts for the pecans. Place the sugars in a medium saucepan over medium heat and cook until the sugar melts and the mixture turns a deep amber color, resisting the urge to stir as this can cause the sugar to crystallize. Remove from the heat and whisk in ¼ cup cream (be careful; it can foam up) along with the vanilla and salt. When the caramel is warm but not hot, add the eggs and melted butter and beat until smooth. Stir in the peanuts and proceed with the recipe.

Mississippi Mud Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 2 hours, plus time to chill

Chocolate custard poured over chocolate cake over a chocolaty crust—what could be bad? For even more depth, add ¼ cup ground toasted pecans to the crust before baking it. Note that you need a deep-dish pie plate for this recipe. If you don’t have one, you’ll have some leftover filling, which you can eat as a pudding.

1. When the crust is done, leave the oven at 350°F. Prepare the Flourless Chocolate Cake batter and pour it into the crust. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the cake is set but still jiggles like Jell-O, then let cool on a rack while you make the custard.

2. Combine the sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the egg yolks and whisk until the yolks are pale and well incorporated; set aside.

3. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over medium-low heat, then remove it from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Whisk the milk into the egg mixture a little at a time to temper the eggs. When all of the milk is added, transfer it back into the saucepan and cook over low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. Whisk vigorously for another minute, then remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Whisk until smooth and the chocolate is fully mixed in, then pour the filling over the cake in the piecrust.

4. Cover the pie with plastic wrap, smoothing the plastic against the surface of the filling so a skin won’t develop. Chill for at least 4 hours before topping with whipped cream and serving. Store refrigerated for up to a week.

MINTY MISSISSIPPI MUD PIE Mint cuts through the rich chocolate beautifully: For the Cookie Crumb Crust, swap in Chocolate-Covered Mint Cookies for the chocolate wafers. Substitute 1 teaspoon mint extract for the vanilla extract.

ICE CREAM PIE Move over, ice cream cake: Fill the cooled baked crust with softened ice cream in the flavor of your choice instead of the cake and pudding. Drizzle the ice cream with Rich Chocolate Sauce and/or Caramel Sauce, top it with whipped cream, or sprinkle nuts on top; freeze until firm.

Buttermilk Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 to 10 servings

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to chill

This homey pie is the ideal blend of sweet, tangy, and creamy and the perfect base for a number of variations. The filling may crack when baking, but that’s part of its old-fashioned appeal. For an extra-rustic treatment, make it with an Oat Piecrust.

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and partially bake the crust. Leave the oven on when it’s done.

2. While the crust bakes, put the buttermilk and cream in a medium saucepan and heat until steaming. In a bowl, whisk together the eggs, yolks, sugar, salt, and vanilla if you’re using it; gradually pour in the buttermilk and cream while whisking. Pour the buttermilk mixture into the crust and return to the oven.

3. Bake for 35 to 45 minutes, until the mixture is not quite set—it should jiggle a bit in the middle. Use your judgment; it will set and thicken more with cooling. Remove and let cool to room temperature on a rack, then cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Serve or store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

ORANGE BUTTERMILK PIE Citrus cuts through the creaminess: Reduce the vanilla extract to ½ teaspoon and add 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon grated orange zest and ⅓ cup fresh orange juice.

BLUEBERRY BUTTERMILK PIE I love how the blueberries create a jammy layer on top of the pie: Evenly distribute 1 cup blueberries over the filling before baking.

DARK CHOCOLATE BUTTERMILK PIE Decadent with a Nut Tart Crust: Put 12 ounces chopped dark chocolate in a bowl and pour the hot buttermilk mixture over the top. Stir until the chocolate is melted and incorporated, then stir into the egg mixture. Proceed with the recipe. Serve with crème fraîche.

BANANA BUTTERSCOTCH PIE Extra sweet: Substitute dark brown sugar for the granulated sugar and milk for the buttermilk. Peel and cut 2 medium bananas into ¼-inch-thick slices; arrange the slices in the baked piecrust in a single overlapping layer (you may not need all the banana slices). Gently pour the butterscotch mixture over the bananas so as not to dislodge any. Serve with a generous dollop of Whipped Cream.

Chess Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Chess pie is a Southern specialty, perhaps descended and deriving its name from a cheese pie made in England during colonial times. (Others maintain that it got its name from the “pie chest,” where pies and other food items were stored, the chess pie being a good keeping pie.) The addition here of cornmeal thickens the filling and makes it a bit coarse. Still a winner.

1. Partially bake the crust and start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is done, leave the oven at 350°F and cool the crust slightly on a rack.

2. Combine the cornmeal, flour, salt, and sugar in a medium bowl. Add the half-and-half, eggs, vanilla, and melted butter and mix well until the mixture is smooth and well incorporated.

3. Put the pie plate with the crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Pour the filling into the crust all the way to the top. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until the mixture is golden and shakes like Jell-O but is still quite moist in the center. Cool on a rack until it no longer jiggles, then slice into wedges and serve or refrigerate for a day or 2.

CHOCOLATE CHESS PIE Add 3 tablespoons cocoa powder to the cornmeal. To double down on the chocolate, swap in a Chocolate Tart Crust for the Sweet Tart Crust.

MAPLE CHESS PIE Tastes great for breakfast too: Substitute 1 cup packed brown sugar for the granulated sugar and add ½ cup maple syrup to the filling.

LEMON CHESS PIE Pucker up: Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest and ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice to the filling.

VINEGAR PIE A recipe that harks back to pioneer days; with pantry and finances limited, cheaper vinegar provided the tartness of the much dearer lemon: Omit the cornmeal and half-and-half. Reduce the sugar to 1 cup, the butter to 2 tablespoons, and increase the eggs to 4. Add 2 tablespoons cider vinegar. Stir the ingredients continuously over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes or until thickened. Pour into the pie shell and bake. You can top with meringue, but I prefer it bare.

Maple Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

French Canadians wait eagerly for maple syrup season to arrive each year—and with it, maple pie. Sweetened only with maple syrup, it’s a pie that’s about the simplicity and pleasure of natural flavors. It’s a cinch to make and a natural and unexpected stand-in for pecan or even pumpkin pie during the holidays.

1. Partially bake the crust and start the filling while the crust is in the oven. When the crust is done, leave the oven at 350°F and cool the crust slightly on a rack.

2. Whisk the cream and cornstarch together to make a slurry. In a heavy saucepan, bring the maple syrup to a simmer over medium-low heat. (Watch carefully and reduce the heat if necessary; it will quickly bubble over if it gets too hot.) Whisk in the cream mixture, reduce the heat to low, and whisk frequently for another 2 or 3 minutes, until slightly thickened.

3. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the butter until melted, and let cool just until lukewarm. Add the eggs and salt and beat until smooth. Place the pie plate on a baking sheet, then fill the shell with the maple filling.

4. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until the top of the pie is bubbly and golden brown; it should shake like Jell-O in the center but still be moist and firm along the edges. Cool on a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

MAPLE PIE WITH NUT PIECRUST Add a nutty undertone to the sugary pie: Substitute a Nut Piecrust made with pecans for the crust.

MAPLE-MOLASSES PIE For a darker, spicier, sweeter pie: Substitute molasses for ½ cup of the maple syrup. Add ½ teaspoon cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg to the mixture with the heavy cream.

HONEY PIE A lighter, delicately sweet pie: Substitute honey for the maple syrup.

BOURBON-MAPLE PIE Stir ¼ cup bourbon into the maple syrup mixture with the heavy cream.

Shoofly Pie (Molasses Pie)

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

This traditional Pennsylvania Dutch pie is said to attract flies because of its sugary molasses filling—hence the name. It’s also supremely easy to make. Add cinnamon or another warm spice if you like or leave it out if you’re a purist.

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Combine the molasses and baking soda in a medium bowl. Pour the boiling water over it and stir well. Whisk in the egg, vanilla, and the cinnamon if you’re using it.

2. Place the pie plate on a baking sheet, then fill the shell with the filling. Sprinkle the pie with the Crumb Topping.

3. Transfer the baking sheet to the oven and bake for about 15 minutes; reduce the heat to 350°F and bake for another 25 to 30 minutes or until the filling shakes like Jell-O but is still quite moist. Cool on a rack and serve warm or at room temperature.

The Basics of Icebox Pies

As the name implies, icebox pies are refrigerated or frozen until they’re chilled. This allows them to set up, so you can cut lovely, smooth slices that won’t collapse. They require baking only for the crust, which is usually a variety of a Cookie Crumb Crust.

Recipes

Banoffee Pie

Peanut Butter Pie

Chocolate Chiffon Pie

Chocolate-Coconut Tart

Strawberry Pie

Grapefruit Icebox Pie

Banoffee Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

This banana and toffee mash-up—beloved in the UK but, for reasons unknown, lesser known stateside—tastes like a banana split. Make the crust with digestive biscuits to stick with tradition or substitute chocolate wafers. Graham crackers work too.

1. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Add the brown sugar and cook until melted, then add the sweetened condensed milk and vanilla. Turn up the heat and bring the mixture to a boil. Cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture turns a light golden brown.

2. Pour the filling into the cooled piecrust and chill for at least 1 hour or until the toffee is firm. When the filling is firm, slice the bananas and arrange in a single layer over the pie. Top with whipped cream and grated chocolate. Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

PEANUT BUTTER-BANANA PIE A winning combination, especially with a crust made from chocolate wafers: Swap in ½ cup creamy peanut butter for the brown sugar.

PEACH-TOFFEE PIE Perfect for a late summer barbecue: Substitute 4 peaches, pitted and sliced, for the bananas.

Peanut Butter Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 to 15 servings

Time: About 1 hour

If you love peanut butter, you’ll go crazy for the smooth, airy filling of this pie. It’s rich (you’ll only need a sliver), but the light whipped cream-based texture keeps it balanced and civilized. Sprinkle chocolate crumbs or grated chocolate over the top if you like an extra kick or add slices of banana in between layers of filling.

1. In a medium bowl, mix together the peanut butter, cream cheese, and vanilla until smooth. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until combined, then fold in the Whipped Cream.

2. Spread the filling evenly into the cooled piecrust and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.

CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER PRETZEL PIE Peanut butter and chocolate play perfectly off the salty crunch of pretzels: Substitute crushed pretzel bits for ½ cup of the crumb mixture in the Cookie Crumb Crust. Fold 4 ounces cooled melted dark chocolate into the filling.

CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT PIE Substitute a Nut Tart Crust made with hazelnuts for the Cookie Crumb Crust. Substitute Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread for the peanut butter.

6 More Nut Butter Pies

Use the Peanut Butter Pie as a template and swap the nut butters and crusts for something completely your own. Some nut butters may be hard to find in the store. No problem—making your own (see page 586) is a cinch.

NUT BUTTER FILLING

CRUST

Cashew butter

No-Bake Fruit and Nut Crust

Almond butter

Meringue Nut Crust

Hazelnut butter or Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread

Chocolate Tart Crust

Tahini

Coconut Tart Crust, All-Coconut Crust, or Nut Tart Crust made with pistachios

Pecan butter

Cookie Crumb Crust made with gingersnaps

Pistachio butter

Cookie Crumb Crust made with lemon wafers

Chocolate Chiffon Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to chill

Light as air but packed with flavor, chiffon pie achieves its silky texture from beaten egg whites folded into a custard base; the crunch of the Cookie Crumb Crust is the perfect counterpoint to the smooth filling. Most chiffon pie recipes use unflavored gelatin to thicken the filling; I prefer cornstarch. To go even lighter, try it with a Meringue Crust.

1. Prepare an ice bath by partially filling a large bowl with ice water.

2. In a medium saucepan, stir together the cornstarch, yolks, ½ cup of the sugar, the cream, and the salt until combined. Cook over medium heat without letting it boil until the mixture thickens, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and add the chopped chocolate and vanilla; stir until the chocolate is melted and combined. Transfer the saucepan to the ice bath and whisk until the custard is thick, 3 or 4 minutes. Remove from the ice bath. Don’t be alarmed if the mixture seems greasy. It will sort itself out when the meringue is folded in.

3. Using a hand-held mixer or a stand mixer with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Add the remaining ¼ cup sugar and continue to beat until stiff peaks form. In thirds, fold the egg whites into the chocolate custard. Transfer the custard to the pie shell and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving, topped with whipped cream.

LEMON CHIFFON PIE The perfect flavor for such a light filling: Make the crust using vanilla wafers. Omit the chocolate and add 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest and ½ cup fresh lemon juice to the yolk mixture.

RASPBERRY CHIFFON PIE A pretty pink pie for summer or any time: Make the crust using vanilla wafers or substitute No-Bake Fruit and Nut Crust omit the chocolate. Heat 3 cups fresh or frozen raspberries over low heat to extract the pulp and juices. Strain the seeds from the fruit and proceed with Step 2, combining the juice with the yolk mixture. If you like, fold the leftover raspberries into the filling at the end.

PUMPKIN CHIFFON PIE The lightest pumpkin pie you’ll ever eat: Make the crust with gingersnaps and omit the chocolate. Substitute brown sugar for granulated sugar in Step 2 and reduce the cream to ¾ cup. Add one 15-ounce can pumpkin purée to the yolk mixture. If you like, add a couple pinches of warm spice like nutmeg or cinnamon to the whipped cream for an extra-cozy pie.

Chocolate-Coconut Tart

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

Candy bar taste in dinner party dress. Be sure to watch the pudding carefully as it cooks, whisking constantly so it doesn’t scorch. The Vegan Whipped Cream is simply whipped coconut cream—the perfect sweet, coconutty topper even if you’re not vegan.

1. Put the sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a medium saucepan and whisk to combine. Whisk in the milk and egg yolks, then put over medium heat and cook, whisking often, until the mixture starts to bubble and thicken, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate, vanilla, and butter. Stir until smooth.

2. Spread the coconut in a layer in the cooled tart crust. Spoon the pudding on top of that and chill until cold, about 3 hours. Serve with Vegan Whipped Cream, if you like.

CHOCOLATE-COCONUT ALMOND TART For when you feel like a nut: Use a Nut Tart Crust made with almonds and substitute ½ teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla extract.

TOASTED COCONUT CHOCOLATE TART Swap the Vegan Whipped Cream for plain Whipped Cream and top with ¼ cup toasted shredded unsweetened coconut (see page 57).

8 Simple Ideas for Icebox Pies

The combination of a from-scratch crust and cold, sweet filling is an irresistible and simple pleasure. Use or combine any of these ideas:

Strawberry Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour, plus time to chill

This pie is a standout, also remarkable with Cornmeal Tart Crust or, for something even faster and easier, No-Bake Fruit and Nut Crust. For more ideas for macerated fruit toppings, see the variations that follow.

1. Bake the crust completely. Cool the crust on a rack while you make the filling.

2. Combine the strawberries and the mint if you’re using it with the granulated sugar and set aside to soften for at least 30 minutes.

3. In a medium bowl, beat together the cream cheese and vanilla until smooth. Add the confectioners’ sugar and beat until combined, then fold in the whipped cream.

4. Drain the strawberries, reserving the excess liquid. Spread the creamy filling evenly into the cooled crust and top with the macerated strawberries, drizzling on a bit of the juices to taste. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving.

STRAWBERRY-BALSAMIC PIE A classic Italian pairing in pie form: Omit the mint. Decrease the granulated sugar to 2 tablespoons and add 2 tablespoons good-quality balsamic vinegar.

BOURBON-PEACH PIE A quintessentially southern confection: Instead of the strawberries and mint, combine 2½ cups chopped pitted peaches with 2 tablespoons bourbon, 2 tablespoons light brown sugar, and, if you like, 1 teaspoon cinnamon.

RASPBERRY-CHAMBORD PIE Super-elegant: Substitute 2½ cups raspberries for the strawberries. Macerate with 2 tablespoons Chambord (or other raspberry liqueur) and 2 tablespoons granulated sugar.

MANGO-LIME PIE Tropical and perky, this is great with Coconut Tart Crust: Use mango for the fruit; keep the mint if you wish or swap it out for 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger. Macerate with ¼ cup fresh lime juice and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar.

TANGY BLUEBERRY PIE Fresh and beautiful: Use blueberries instead of strawberries; add mint if you want. Decrease the granulated sugar to 2 tablespoons and add 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice. Stir 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest into the berries just before adding to the crust.

Grapefruit Icebox Pie

Makes: One 9-inch pie, enough for about 12 servings

Time: About 45 minutes, plus time to chill

I love a pie that requires little hands-on effort. The filling is entirely no-cook—just blend together, pour into the prebaked cookie crumb crust, and pop into the freezer or fridge. It’s especially refreshing in summer; the grapefruit provides a pleasant tartness that’s altogether different from lemon or lime. You can mix up your citrus by blending lemon, orange, and grapefruit together or try one of the variations that follow.

1. Use an electric mixer to beat the cream cheese in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Add the sweetened condensed milk, grapefruit zest, and juice and mix until combined. Fold in the salt and confectioners’ sugar.

2. Spread the filling evenly into the cooled piecrust and freeze until solid, at least 3 hours. Let the pie sit for 10 minutes at room temperature before serving.

LIME-PISTACHIO ICEBOX PIE Pistachios make a lavish yet delicate crust that’s an awesome and unusual complement to the tart lime filling: Substitute lime zest for the grapefruit zest and ⅓ cup lime juice for the grapefruit juice. Swap in a Nut Tart Crustmade with shelled pistachios for the Oatmeal-Coconut Cookie Crust.

ORANGE-ALMOND ICEBOX PIE More complex: Replace the grapefruit zest and juice with orange zest and juice. Add ½ teaspoon almond extract to the filling. Use a Nut Tart Crust made with almonds instead of the Oatmeal-Coconut Cookie Crust.

LEMON-VANILLA ICEBOX PIE Sweeter, and more like a creamsicle: Substitute lemon zest and juice for the grapefruit zest and juice. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract to the filling. Use a Cookie Crumb Crust made with vanilla wafers.

BLOOD ORANGE-CHOCOLATE ICEBOX PIE A pie that brings the drama: Substitute blood orange zest and juice for the grapefruit zest and juice. Substitute a Cookie Crumb Crust made with chocolate wafer cookies for the Oatmeal Coconut Cookie Crust.

COCONUT-COCONUT ICEBOX PIE If you’re fe