Cookies, Brownies, and Bars - How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman

How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman (2016)

Cookies, Brownies, and Bars

I’ll bet that almost every American’s first experience in the kitchen was making cookies (or brownies), most likely at the side of a parent, grandparent, or other beloved family member. If that rings true to you, I also bet you can still conjure up the experience, including the aroma and taste and texture of that still-warm cookie as you took the first bite. For such a little package, cookies bring a lot of love and comfort.

What makes cookies even more wonderful is that, for the most part, they’re quick and very forgiving, usually rewarding even beginner efforts with a result that is sweet and satisfying. It makes sense that they would be the first step in a lifetime of baking.

The Basics of Baking Cookies

Most cookies fall into three categories:

Drop cookies—you drop the dough directly onto baking sheets, for near-instant gratification—are a perfect vehicle for all sorts of add-ins; chocolate chip cookies are the paradigm. See Drop Cookies Your Way, Improvising Cookies, and How to Dress Up Any Cookie for suggestions on how to adapt them to your personal taste.

Shaped, rolled, piped, and molded cookies use cookie dough that needs some shaping, whether it’s piped through a pastry bag, formed into small balls, rolled out and cut, or baked in a mold, like Madeleines. For some, like classic slice-and-bake cookies, you’ll need to refrigerate the dough before shaping to let it set up; see Refrigerator Cookies.

Bar cookies—from brownies to lemon bars—are baked in a pan and cut into squares for serving. They are casual, couldn’t be simpler to prepare, and are impossible not to love; check them out starting on page 179.

Eating Cookie Dough

For some people, eating the raw dough is the best part of making cookies. If that’s your thing but you’re worried about eating uncooked eggs, you can swap each egg for ¼ cup milk or yogurt, 2 tablespoons unsweetened nut butter, or a vegan egg replacement (see page 43). Or use pasteurized eggs, which are treated to kill bacteria. The cookies will still bake up fine, and the dough will be safer to eat. If you will be using the entire batch raw for another recipe (like Cookie Dough Ice Cream, see page 311), omit the eggs and the baking soda or baking powder too; you won’t be needing them. Flour, too, can carry contaminants, so be aware that although the risks are diminished when you omit raw eggs, they are not completely eliminated.

MIXING COOKIE DOUGH

Most cookie recipes start by instructing you to cream together sugar and softened butter. This step makes a difference: Creaming creates tiny pockets of air that steam up during baking and make the cookies light, velvety, and tender. If you’re using an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugars for no longer than 3 minutes or so, until the individual sugar granules disappear. Once you add eggs, the dough can handle up to 6 or 7 minutes more of beating, until it almost doubles in size. You can get away with using melted butter instead, but you’ll get much denser results. A better option, usually, is a food processor; you can start with chilled butter this way (since the blade softens it so quickly) instead of waiting for it to come to room temperature. You’ll still get those desired air pockets in the end, and the dough comes together much faster.

Generally mixing cookies is a very flexible affair. You can do it by hand, hand mixer, standing mixer, even food processor—whatever you like best. If I suggest a particular method in a recipe, it means it’s easier, but any other will get the job done:

TO MIX COOKIE DOUGH BY HAND Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. In another bowl, use a fork to cream the softened butter until it’s airy, then mash in the sugar until well blended. Stir in eggs and any other wet ingredients, then gradually fold in the dry ingredients.

TO MIX COOKIE DOUGH WITH AN ELECTRIC HAND-HELD OR STAND MIXER Combine the dry ingredients in a bowl. Put the softened butter and sugar in a mixing bowl and beat on low speed until creamy. Add the wet ingredients and beat on low speed until combined, then gradually beat in the dry ingredients.

TO MAKE COOKIE DOUGH IN A FOOD PROCESSOR Put all the dry ingredients in the processor and pulse once or twice to combine. Cut chilled butter into bits, add to the machine, and process for about 10 seconds, until the mixture is well blended. Add the remaining wet ingredients and pulse just enough to blend.

BAKING COOKIES

Most ovens have hot spots, and this can make a difference: The cookies in the back of the oven or on the bottom rack, if you are cooking two sheets of cookies at the same time, may brown (or burn) faster. The solution is simple: Halfway through the estimated baking time, rotate the baking sheets from back to front and, if you’re cooking two sheets, also exchange them from top to bottom.

When it comes to cookie sheets, you have a choice between flat cookie sheets, which have no rims, and rimmed baking sheets. It can be argued that the rim impedes airflow as the cookies are baking, but I’ve never noticed a difference. You can use whatever type you prefer or have on hand. Either way, the sheet’s material plays a role. Heavy baking sheets tend to transfer heat most evenly, and darker sheets attract heat, making for darker cookies. No need to go out and buy brand-new cookie sheets, though; just be aware of what you’re using and adjust cook time accordingly. If your sheet is dark, try baking on a piece of parchment and check the cookies a few minutes before the estimated bake time; if it’s shiny, you may need to bake for a few extra minutes. When in doubt, use a spatula to check the bottoms of the cookies.

A few other details: Each cookie recipe will indicate whether the baking sheet should be greased or ungreased; follow the instructions so your cookies won’t get stuck to the pan. In the case of some very sticky or delicate doughs, the sheet should be lined with parchment paper (which, in any case, makes cleanup easier) or a nonstick silicone mat. Second, note how far apart to space the mounds of cookie dough on the baking sheet. Some dough spreads more than others, and if you crowd the pan, your cookies could end up baking into one huge mass. Also, don’t bake more than two sheets of cookies at one time, even if your oven has a third rack; the extra pan will impede airflow and likely result in uneven baking. Most of the time, the rest of the dough can simply wait at room temperature; dough for cutout or slice-and-bake cookies should be refrigerated until you’re ready to bake it.

Last, let the baked cookies cool on the sheets for several minutes before removing them with a spatula, which will give them time to firm up just a bit. (Don’t let them sit too long, or they may stick to the baking sheet.) Don’t put the next batch of cookie dough on a hot baking sheet, or the bottoms will start to cook before you can get them in the oven. If need be, rinse the underside of the sheets in lukewarm water (not cold, which may warp your pan), wipe dry, and then load them up with the next batch.

STORING COOKIES

Cookies rarely get stale because people eat them quickly. Store them in a closed container at room temperature and they’ll do fine, although soft and crisp cookies should be stored separately or each type will lose its texture.

Wrapped tightly, baked cookies can be frozen pretty much indefinitely, as can the dough, which is then available whenever you have a yen. For refrigerator cookies (or even thicker drop cookie doughs), just shape the dough into a log or a disk and wrap in a couple layers of plastic; you can then slice directly from the freezer (30 minutes of thawing will make that job a little easier) and bake, or thaw completely in the fridge before proceeding as usual. It’s terrifically convenient, and with far tastier results than a store-bought log. For drop cookies, you can also portion out the dough as if you’re about to bake, freeze on a baking sheet until firm, then transfer to a freezer bag, making sure to squeeze out all excess air. Let warm up a bit on the counter before cooking.

For Better Cookies, Give It a Rest

One of the many appealing things about drop cookies is that they can be ready to eat half an hour after baking inspiration hits you. It’s certainly hard to resist that almost-instant gratification, but try refrigerating some of the dough and see how you like the results. Chilling it for up to 48 hours enables the flavors to develop and the gluten in the dough to relax—in much the same way as resting pie dough (see page 255) or pastries—making for richer, more complex results. It also means you can prepare the dough in advance and enjoy it spontaneously.

Drop Cookies

Truly, the easiest of the easy. Mix up the dough, then drop by the teaspoon or tablespoon onto baking sheets. Many of these doughs are incredibly versatile, letting you add and swap ingredients to get just the flavor combination you want. If you’re a cookie neophyte, this is where you want to start.

Recipes

Chocolate Chunk Cookies

Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

Banana Oatmeal Cookies

Peanut Butter Cookies

Pumpkin Cookies

Flourless Chocolate Almond Cookies

Pignoli Cookies

Coconut Macaroons

Black and White Cookies

Olive Oil Cookies

Anzac Cookies

Tuiles

Florentines

Chocolate Chunk Cookies

Makes: 2 to 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

Chewy in the middle, crisp at the edges, and full of real chocolate flavor, these cookies will make you forget all about waxy, bland chocolate chips. Use whatever chocolate you like best; I always go dark. Chopping the chocolate by hand yields pieces that ooze quite a bit during baking. If that bothers you, line your sheets with parchment paper. This recipe has almost infinite variations; some favorites follow.

  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¾ teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • ¾ cup granulated sugar
  • ¾ cup packed brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 8 ounces chocolate, chopped

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Mix the flour, salt, and baking soda in a bowl and set aside.

2. Cream together the butter and sugars until light and fluffy; add the eggs one at a time and beat until well blended, then mix in the vanilla. Add the dry ingredients to the dough and stir until they are just incorporated. Fold in the chocolate.

3. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool for about 3 to 5 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to a wire rack to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

THIN AND CRISP CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES A great cookie to use in an Icebox Cake: Increase the granulated sugar to 1 cup and decrease the brown sugar to ½ cup. Use only 1 egg and increase the baking soda to 1 teaspoon. Melt the butter, let it cool slightly, then beat with the sugars. Proceed with the recipe. Scoop the cookies slightly smaller than a tablespoon each and allow for plenty of space between them on the baking sheet. Bake one sheet at a time at 325°F, 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown.

EXTRA-CHEWY CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES Increase the brown sugar to 1 cup and decrease the granulated sugar to ½ cup. Add an extra egg yolk with the eggs.

OATY CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES For subtle oat flavor and softer texture: Substitute 1 cup oat flour (to make your own, pulse rolled oats in a food processor) for 1 cup of all-purpose. These can also be gluten free and even oatier if you use 2 cups oat flour and increase the baking soda to 1 teaspoon.

CHOCOLATE-CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES Melt 1 ounce each semisweet and unsweetened chocolate, let cool, and add to the dough before adding the flour mixture.

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES These aren’t spicy but toasty, warm, and a little savory: Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon cayenne, and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg to the dry ingredients.

VEGAN CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES Use any neutral oil, or coconut oil for a little extra flavor: Add 1 teaspoon baking powder to the flour mixture. Replace the butter and eggs with ⅔ cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, and ¼ cup water or unsweetened nondairy milk; beat them both with the sugars until everything is smooth. Use vegan chocolate.

Turning Up (or Down) the Heat for the Texture You Want

Particularly when it comes to chocolate chip cookies, perfection means different things to different people. A lot of that has to do with texture. One easy way to totally alter the texture of a cookie without changing a thing about the recipe is to tweak the oven temperature. For Chocolate Chunk Cookies, baking them at 500°F very quickly yields a golden exterior and nearly raw interior—nirvana for raw cookie dough lovers. Going in the other direction, baking them at 250°F for a few minutes longer, results in a thin, crisp, toffeelike cookie. Use this trick to fine-tune this recipe and others to get cookies just the way you want them.

Drop Cookies Your Way

With cookies, some details are nonnegotiable: You’ve got to have something sweet, like sugar; you need structure from flour or, less often, ground nuts; and you need a binder, like eggs. But other details are easy to adapt to your personal taste; with drop cookies in particular, you have creative license since the dough is so easy to shape.

Drop Cookies

CAKEY

  • ✵ Add an extra egg white
  • ✵ Use only baking powder
  • ✵ Add more flour

CHEWY AND SOFT

  • ✵ Add an extra egg
  • ✵ Higher oven temperature

THIN AND CRISP

  • ✵ Longer baking time
  • ✵ Use all granulated sugar
  • ✵ Lower oven temperature

CHEWY AND FUDGY

  • ✵ Shorter baking time
  • ✵ Use bread flour
  • ✵ Add an extra egg yolk
  • ✵ Use baking powder and baking soda
  • ✵ Use all brown sugar
  • ✵ Melt the butter

FOR DEEPER FLAVOR

  • ✵ Use all brown sugar
  • ✵ Add more salt and vanilla

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Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

Makes: 2 to 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

One of the most accommodating doughs, these cakey cookies beg for add-ins. Just about any dried fruit can be used in place of the raisins, but don’t stop there; try adding crushed nuts, nut butters, or chocolate. The dough can handle up to 1½ cups of extras.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups rolled oats
  • 1½ cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¼ cup milk
  • 1½ cup raisins

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Cream together the butter and sugars until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition until just combined, then add the vanilla and mix to combine.

2. Mix the oats, flour, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt together in a medium bowl. Gradually add the dry ingredients and the milk to the butter mixture, mixing on low speed. Stir in the raisins by hand.

3. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

CHEWY OATMEAL RAISIN COOKIES Omit the milk and add 1 tablespoon molasses with the vanilla.

OATMEAL CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES Chop 8 ounces dark chocolate into chunks and substitute for the raisins.

CHERRY WHITE CHOCOLATE CHUNK OATMEAL COOKIES Swap ¾ cup dried cherries for the raisins and fold ¾ cup white chocolate chunks into the finished dough.

OATMEAL APPLE COOKIES Instead of raisins, use 1½ cups chopped dried apples (about 5 ounces). Substitute unsweetened applesauce for the milk.

OATMEAL CARROT COOKIES Replace the raisins with peeled and grated carrots (or parsnips). Add a pinch of nutmeg and/or ground cloves along with the cinnamon.

OATMEAL RUM RAISIN COOKIES Soak the raisins in ½ cup dark rum until plump, a couple of hours. Discard (or drink) whatever rum is left over. Include a handful of chopped pecans if you like.

COCONUT COOKIES Even chewier than oatmeal: Increase the flour to 2 cups and substitute shredded unsweetened coconut for the oats. (If you can find only sweetened coconut, decrease the granulated sugar to ¼ cup.) Use coconut milk instead of regular milk. Add a tablespoon or so of grated lime zest if you like.

VEGAN OATMEAL RAISIN COOKIES Instead of butter, use ½ cup melted coconut oil. Mix 2 tablespoons ground flaxseeds with 6 tablespoons water until smooth; let sit for a few minutes, until the mixture is gelatinous, and use this in place of the eggs. Use your favorite non-dairy milk.

CRUNCHY OATMEAL TOFFEE COOKIES These have a good snap and pronounced caramel flavor: Use 1¼ cups brown sugar and ¼ cup granulated. Omit 1 egg. Substitute chopped toffee for the raisins.

TRAIL MIX COOKIES Decrease the raisins to ½ cup; add ½ cup each shredded unsweetened coconut, peanuts, and chopped chocolate into the dough.

WHOLE GRAIN SPICE COOKIES Whole grain flours create a heartier cookie with a nutty flavor that can handle more spice. Try dark rye, barley, brown rice, kamut, spelt, or whole wheat flours; use one type or experiment with the ratios: Decrease the brown sugar to ¾ cup and add ¼ cup molasses. Substitute whole grain flours for the all-purpose. Add ½ teaspoon ginger and ¼ teaspoon each allspice and nutmeg along with the cinnamon. Increase the milk to ½ cup.

LACY OATMEAL COOKIES Almost like Tuiles, these cookies contain no flour: Omit the flour, baking powder, and milk. Melt the butter and combine it with the sugars, oats, and salt; beat in the eggs. (For a thinner, crispier cookie, decrease the oats to 1½ cups.) Flatten a bit with the back of a spoon. Bake at 350°F on greased baking sheets for 8 to 10 minutes; let rest for just a minute before carefully transferring to wire racks to finish cooling.

Banana Oatmeal Cookies

Makes: 1 to 2 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

Bananas don’t just flavor these flourless cookies—they also make them sweet and tender so there’s no need for much sugar or fat. The key is to use very ripe, even overripe, bananas.

  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, plus more for greasing
  • 1½ cups rolled oats
  • 3 large ripe bananas
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • ½ cup chopped nuts
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Melt the butter and let it cool to room temperature.

2. Pour the oats onto a rimmed baking sheet. Toast in the oven until they begin to turn golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Pour them into a bowl to stop the cooking.

3. Mash the bananas well in a large bowl with a fork or potato masher. Stir in the melted butter and vanilla.

4. In a separate bowl, mix the oats, sugar, nuts, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the banana mixture and stir just until combined.

5. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto lightly greased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for 12 to 15, minutes until golden brown. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

BANANA OATMEAL CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES Substitute 4 ounces chopped dark chocolate for the nuts.

BANANA OATMEAL COCONUT COOKIES Like a cross between banana bread and coconut macaroons: Substitute coconut oil for the butter. Decrease the oats to ⅔ cup, use macadamia nuts, and add 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut with the rest of the dry ingredients. Omit the cinnamon.

PEANUT BUTTER BANANA OATMEAL COOKIES Substitute ½ cup peanut butter for the butter; melt it slightly in the microwave. Use chopped peanuts for the nuts. Omit the cinnamon.

APPLE-BANANA OATMEAL COOKIES Substitute unsweetened applesauce for the butter.

TWO-INGREDIENT BANANA OATMEAL COOKIES Chewy and nearly instant. Best served warm. Increase the oats to 2 cups and fold them into the mashed bananas. Omit all other ingredients, or for something more like a granola bar, keep the nuts and add ½ cup dried fruit, cut into small pieces as needed. Bake as directed.

Peanut Butter Cookies

Makes: 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

These cookies have chewy centers, crunchy edges, and big peanut flavor, all the more so if you add chopped peanuts. Creamy or crunchy peanut butter is your call, but do make sure it’s unsweetened.

  • 1 cup flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 stick butter, softened
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1 cup peanut butter
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup roasted peanuts, chopped (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Combine the flour, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl.

2. Cream the butter and sugars together until light and fluffy, then beat in the peanut butter. Add the eggs and the vanilla. Add the flour mixture and mix until just combined. If you’re using them, fold in the peanuts.

3. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Use the back of a fork to press lines into the tops of each cookie, rotating it to make a crosshatch pattern. If the fork gets too sticky, dip it in a bit of water. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

FLOURLESS PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES These cookies have only 5 ingredients, so even if you aren’t avoiding gluten, they’re irresistibly convenient: Increase the peanut butter to 2 cups and mix it with the sugars, eggs, and vanilla until fully combined; omit all other ingredients.

PEANUT BUTTER CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES Chop 6 ounces chocolate and fold it into the finished dough in place of the chopped peanuts.

PEANUT BUTTER HONEY COOKIES Replace the brown sugar with 1 cup honey and add 1 teaspoon baking powder to the dry ingredients.

VEGAN PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES Replace the butter with ⅓ cup oil, like grapeseed, corn, or coconut (which will have a bit more flavor) and ¼ cup unsweetened almond milk or water. Add an extra ¼ cup peanut butter and omit the eggs.

PB&J COOKIES Like a peanut butter thumbprint: When the dough is finished, cover the bowl and refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours. Scoop the dough and roll it by hand into tablespoon-size balls, then place on the sheets about 2 inches apart. Use your thumb to make a shallow indentation in the top of each cookie, then fill the indentations with about a teaspoon of Fruit Jam.

PEANUT BUTTER CUP COOKIES When the dough is finished, cover the bowl and refrigerate until firm, about 2 hours. Scoop the dough and roll it by hand into tablespoon-size balls, then place on the sheets about 2 inches apart. Use your thumb to make a shallow indentation in the top of each cookie, bake, cool, then fill the indentations with about a teaspoon of Whipped Ganache Frosting.

Pumpkin Cookies

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

This dough is wetter than most others, which makes for a very soft, cakelike cookie. For chewier cookies, melt the butter before adding the sugar and omit the egg. The combination of pumpkin and warm spices tastes like fall, but see the variations for other fruit and spice combinations that work year-round. Top these off with Cream Cheese Frosting, Caramel Sauce, or Orange Glaze.

  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 teaspoons cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon ginger
  • ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 stick butter, softened
  • 1 cup packed light brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 egg
  • 1 cup canned pumpkin

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and spices in a medium bowl.

2. Cream the butter and brown sugar together in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla, egg, and pumpkin and beat until well blended.

3. Add the dry ingredients and beat until just incorporated.

4. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the edges are browned. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. If icing or glazing, wait until they are cool, then decorate them right on the rack and let set for 10 more minutes. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

APPLESAUCE COOKIES Swap 1 cup applesauce for the pumpkin.

PEACH COOKIES Use 1 cup peach purée in place of the pumpkin; for the spices, use 2 teaspoons cinnamon and ½ teaspoon cardamom.

ZUCCHINI COOKIES Instead of pumpkin, use 1 cup finely grated zucchini. Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest and omit the spices.

Secret Ingredients and How to Use Them

Some ingredients, like vanilla bean or very good chocolate, are meant to take center stage. Here are some ingredients that, instead, add a little something extra—detectable but hard to put your finger on. When people ask you what it is, you can share your secret or keep them guessing.

INGREDIENT: Oat and Nut Flours

WHAT IT DOES: Oat flour adds moisture and subtle chewiness; nut flours (see page 15) add warm flavor.

HOW TO USE IT: Substitute for up to half of the flour in any recipe.

INGREDIENT: Unusual Spices

WHAT IT DOES: Add more complex flavor—not necessarily spicy, just subtle.

HOW TO USE IT: Combine ½ teaspoon or so of ground spices with dry ingredients. Nutmeg, allspice, coriander, saffron, even a pinch of cayenne or ground chile can be delicious.

INGREDIENT: Sour Cream or Cream Cheese

WHAT IT DOES: Makes cookies tender, moister, and softer.

HOW TO USE IT: Omit 1 egg and add ½ cup.

INGREDIENT: Espresso Powder

WHAT IT DOES: Adds a deep, rich flavor that complements chocolate especially well.

HOW TO USE IT: Stir up to 1 tablespoon into dough with other dry ingredients.

INGREDIENT: Crushed Graham Crackers

WHAT IT DOES: Adds the nutty, honeyed flavor of graham crackers to anything.

HOW TO USE IT: Crush the crackers until they are a fine powder; substitute for up to half of the flour, bearing in mind that the more you use, the flatter the cookies will be.

INGREDIENT: Powdered Milk

WHAT IT DOES: Lends a mildly sweet and creamy flavor—just like milk.

HOW TO USE IT: Add up to 2 tablespoons along with the dry ingredients.

INGREDIENT: Nut Butter or Tahini

WHAT IT DOES: Makes the cookies extra-chewy with a deeper, rounder flavor.

HOW TO USE IT: Swap each egg for 3 tablespoons nut butter or beat up to ½ cup in with the butter, sugar, and eggs (the more you use, the less “secret” it will be!).

INGREDIENT: Coconut Oil

WHAT IT DOES: Imparts a rich, irresistibly coconutty flavor that’s especially good with chocolate.

HOW TO USE IT: Substitute for some or all of the butter or oil; measure and freeze first if the recipe calls for softened butter.

21 Cookies and Bars to Make with Kids

Cookies are one of the most fun and simple things to bake with kids, and kids are always eager to participate (and taste-test). Here are some favorites of the single-digit set that are especially easy to tag-team.

  • Sugar Cookies
  • Chocolate Chunk Cookies
  • Oatmeal Raisin Cookies
  • Peanut Butter Cookies
  • Vanilla Meringues
  • Coconut Macaroons
  • Pumpkin Cookies
  • Black and White Cookies
  • Tuiles
  • Classic Shortbread
  • Thumbprint Cookies
  • Snickerdoodles
  • Chocolate Wafer Cookies
  • Mexican Wedding Cookies
  • Gingersnaps
  • Brownies
  • Blondies
  • Magic Bars
  • Lemon Squares
  • No-Bake Granola Bars or No-Bake Fruit and Cereal Bars
  • Caramel Popcorn Bars

Flourless Chocolate Almond Cookies

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: About 45 minutes

Sugar and egg whites make this rich, fudgy cookie crisp and glossy on the outside and nice and chewy when you bite into it. It’s simple and endlessly adaptable, so use any nut and just about any flavor you like, from coffee to dried fruit—see below for some ideas.

  • 3 cups confectioners’ sugar, plus more for dusting
  • ½ cup cocoa powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 5 egg whites at room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3½ cups almonds, toasted (see page 57) and finely chopped

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Whisk together the sugar, cocoa, and salt in a medium bowl.

2. Whisk the egg whites in a large bowl until foamy; add the vanilla and beat for another minute. Gradually add the nuts and the sugar mixture, stirring until a loose, sticky dough forms.

3. Line baking sheets with parchment paper, since these cookies can be very sticky. Use a spoon to drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto the sheets about 3 inches apart; keep the cookies small, as the dough spreads quite a bit. Bake until hardened on the outside, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool the cookies completely on the sheets, then remove with a spatula. Dust with confectioners’ sugar before serving if you like. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

MOCHA-PECAN COOKIES Add 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder to the sugar and cocoa mixture. If you like, chop 4 ounces dark chocolate and add that with the nuts.

WALNUT SPICE COOKIES Use walnuts instead of almonds. Substitute ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ½ teaspoon cardamom, and ½ teaspoon allspice for the cocoa powder.

PISTACHIO LEMON COOKIES Use pistachios for the nuts. Omit the cocoa powder; stir 2 tablespoons each grated lemon zest and juice into the finished batter.

HAZELNUT COOKIES The Italian name for this cookie is brutti ma buoni, or “ugly but good”; true on both counts: Omit the cocoa powder and use 4 cups hazelnuts instead of the almonds. After toasting them in the oven, rub the nuts in a tea towel to remove as much of the skins as you can, then pulse them in a food processor with the sugar until finely ground. If the dough is too wet for your liking, feel free to add more ground hazelnuts.

7 More Combinations for Flourless Nut Cookies

Nuts are a natural match for chopped dried fruit, so add up to 1½ cups or leave it out if you aren’t wild about the texture. Leave in the cocoa powder or omit it, as you like.

  • Almonds, dried cherries, and 4 ounces chopped dark chocolate
  • Peanuts, raisins, and 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • Pecans, dried apricots, and 1 teaspoon ginger
  • Walnuts, dried figs, and ½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
  • Pine nuts, dried currants, and ½ teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
  • Macadamia nuts, dried mango, and 2 tablespoons grated lime zest
  • Hazelnuts, dried blueberries, and 2 tablespoons grated orange zest

Pignoli Cookies

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

This traditional Italian cookie is chewy treat with a double shot of nuttiness—almond paste in the dough and pine nuts on top.

  • 2 7-ounce tubes almond paste
  • ½ cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 2 egg whites
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup pine nuts

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. Process the almond paste in a food processor until it’s broken up into small pieces. Add the sugar and pulse until well mixed. Add the egg whites, honey, vanilla, and salt and pulse until smooth.

3. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto prepared baking sheets about 2 inches apart and press about 1 teaspoon pine nuts into the top of each. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until golden. Let rest on the sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for 3 days.

Coconut Macaroons

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 20 minutes, plus time to cool

Moist and chewy, this cookie contains no dairy or flour and can be put together in one bowl in no time flat. It’s also quite versatile: Use up to 5 cups of coconut for something lighter and chewier or replace some of it with nuts (see the variations). If you can find only sweetened coconut, decrease the sugar to ½ cup.

  • 3 egg whites
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 3 cups shredded unsweetened coconut
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • Pinch of salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line baking sheets with parchment paper. Lightly beat the egg whites with the sugar until frothy, then mix in the rest of the ingredients until the coconut is evenly coated.

2. Wet your hands and make small mounds of the mixture, each 1 to 2 tablespoons, about an inch apart on the prepared sheets. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Cool the cookies on wire racks for at least 30 minutes before eating. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

CHOCOLATE-DIPPED MACAROONS When the cookies are completely cool, melt 8 ounces chocolate with 3 tablespoons butter. Place a piece of parchment or foil under the rack and dip each macaroon partially in the chocolate. Let set on the rack.

CHOCOLATE MACAROONS Chop and melt 2 ounces unsweetened chocolate; let cool slightly. Stir it into the egg and coconut mixture along with ¼ cup cocoa powder.

COCONUT-LEMON MACAROONS Light and airy, a cross between a macaroon and a lemon meringue: Whisk the egg whites and sugar until soft peaks form. Add the grated zest of 1 lemon with the coconut.

NUTTY MACAROONS Any nut works well here; it’s also very good with up to 1 cup chopped chocolate: Use 1½ cups coconut and 1½ cups finely chopped nuts. Add ½ teaspoon almond extract.

Black and White Cookies

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to frost

This is a New York City classic, a thing I grew up with, now usually—and sadly—sold wrapped in plastic. Making them at home ensures freshness—the cakelike cookie stales faster than most—and undoubtedly better ingredients.

  • 3¼ cups all-purpose flour
  • ½ cup cornstarch
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 sticks butter, softened, plus more for greasing
  • 1¾ cups sugar
  • 3 eggs, at room temperature
  • 1 cup milk
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons)
  • Vanilla Glaze
  • ¼ cup cocoa powder

1.Heat the oven to 375°F. Whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl and set aside.

2. Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs, then add the milk and vanilla. With a rubber spatula, fold in the flour mixture, about 1 cup at a time, mixing until just incorporated with each addition. Add the lemon zest with the last of the flour.

3. Drop about 2 tablespoons of the dough in mounds onto lightly greased baking sheets about 3 inches apart; use the spoon to spread them a bit into nice circles. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the edges are golden. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool completely.

4. While the cookies bake, make the glaze. Reserve half of the glaze; stir the cocoa into the remaining glaze until fully incorporated. Add water as needed, 1 teaspoon at a time, to thin the chocolate glaze.

5. Flip the cookies upside down (so that you’re glazing the flat side) and coat half in a thin layer of the white glaze. Coat the other half in chocolate glaze and let set at room temperature. These will keep in an airtight container, between sheets of waxed paper, for no more than a day or two.

Olive Oil Cookies

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

Olive oil has a place in your baking even if you’re not looking to cut down on saturated fat—it adds a light, fresh flavor that’s offset by its velvety richness. These cookies have a cakey interior and nicely crisped surface.

  • 2 cups flour
  • ¼ teaspoon baking powder
  • Pinch of salt
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • ½ cup olive oil
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ cup milk
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1.Heat the oven to 350°F. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.

2.Beat the sugar and olive oil in a medium bowl until smooth. Mix in the eggs, then the milk and vanilla, beating as you go until the mixture is creamy and fluffy, another couple of minutes. Gently stir the liquid mixture into the dry ingredients until just combined.

3.Use 2 teaspoons to drop mounds of dough onto ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake until lightly browned on the bottom, 12 to 15 minutes. Immediately transfer the cookies to a rack to cool. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

SAFFRON OLIVE OIL COOKIES Gorgeously golden: In Step 2, pour 1 tablespoon boiling water over ⅛ teaspoon crumbled saffron threads in a medium bowl. Stir and steep for a few minutes, then beat in the sugar and olive oil. Omit the vanilla.

ORANGE OLIVE OIL COOKIES Light and bright: When the flour is not quite incorporated, fold 3 tablespoons grated orange zest into the batter along with 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice or Grand Marnier. Stir until combined.

OLIVE OIL SPICE COOKIES A good way to bring out the natural pepperiness of some olive oils: Add ½ teaspoon black pepper and ¼ teaspoon cardamom in Step 1.

RED WINE OLIVE OIL COOKIES Savory and sweet: Stir 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary leaves and ¼ teaspoon black pepper into the finished batter. Substitute red wine for the milk and leave out the vanilla.

CHILE OLIVE OIL COOKIES Spicy and unexpected, a good one for entertaining: Instead of vanilla, add 1 to 2 tablespoons seeded and minced jalapeño or other hot fresh chile, to taste. This also works with 1 teaspoon cayenne.

12 Gluten-Free Cookies and Bars

All of these cookies are naturally gluten free, but if you’re intolerant, be sure to check your ingredients to make sure they’re safe too. For any recipe containing flour, see page 40 for more on gluten-free substitutes.

  • Flourless Peanut Butter Cookies
  • Banana Oatmeal Cookies and variations
  • Flourless Chocolate Almond Cookies) and variations
  • Coconut Macaroons and variations
  • French Macarons and variations
  • Vanilla Meringues and variations
  • Florentines
  • Horchata Cookies
  • Flourless Brownies
  • No-Bake Granola Bars
  • No-Bake Fruit and Cereal Bars
  • Caramel Popcorn Bars

Anzac Cookies

Makes: 18 to 24

Time: About 30 minutes

This cookie became popular in wartime Australia because it’s made with mostly nonperishable ingredients and sturdy enough to withstand soldiers’ travels (the name is an acronym for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps). Even if you’re not taking it on a long voyage, it makes a very good snack—chewy, a bit crumbly, and quick to make. Aussie purists insist on golden syrup, but honey is a fine substitute.

  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 cup rolled oats
  • 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 stick butter, plus more for greasing
  • 2 tablespoons golden syrup or honey
  • 2 tablespoons hot water
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Mix the flour, oats, coconut, and sugar in a large bowl.

2. Melt the butter and golden syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring frequently until all the butter has melted. Remove from the heat. In a separate bowl, combine the water and baking soda and whisk it into the butter mixture. Add this to the dry ingredients and stir until well incorporated.

3. Drop tablespoon-size mounds of dough onto lightly greased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake until lightly browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for up to a week.

MAPLE-ORANGE ANZAC COOKIES Decrease the sugar to ¾ cup. Substitute ⅓ cup maple syrup for the golden syrup and add 2 tablespoons grated orange zest to the saucepan with the butter and syrup.

MOLASSES-SPICE ANZAC COOKIES Replace half of the granulated sugar with light brown sugar. Add ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, and ½ teaspoon ground cloves to the dry ingredients. Substitute molasses for the golden syrup.

Tuiles

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

“Tiles” in French, these thin, crisp cookies are traditionally draped over a rolling pin to cool, giving them the curved shape of a Mediterranean roof tile. You can mold them into any shape you like or just keep them flat.

  • 1 stick butter, melted, plus more for greasing
  • 4 egg whites
  • 1 cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Generously grease baking sheets or cover them with parchment paper. (The tuiles will be very thin and delicate after baking, so you want to make it as easy as possible to get them off the sheets.)

2. Whisk the egg whites until foamy. Mix in the sugar and flour, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the melted butter and vanilla, and stir until just incorporated. The dough will be more like a very thick batter than a cookie dough. If it’s not quite spreadable, let it rest for 15 minutes or so.

3. Spoon the batter onto the prepared sheets and use the back of the spoon to spread the batter into thin (less than ¼ inch thick) 2- to 3-inch circles. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until firm and slightly darkened around the edges. Working quickly while the tuiles are still hot, use a metal spatula or butter knife to transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool flat or drape them over a dowel or rolling pin to form the traditional curved tuile shape. These will keep in an airtight container for a couple of days. If they become soggy, recrisp them for a couple of minutes in the oven at 350°F.

CHOCOLATE TUILES Decrease the flour to ¾ cup and add ¼ cup cocoa powder.

COCONUT TUILES Decrease the flour to ⅓ cup and add 2 cups shredded unsweetened coconut. If you can find only sweetened coconut, decrease the sugar to ⅔ cup.

CITRUS TUILES Add 3 tablespoons grated citrus zest at the end of Step 2.

DESSERT CUPS Great for holding berries, pudding, ice cream, or flavored whipped cream: When the cookies come out of the oven, drape them over inverted small ramekins or coffee cups, working quickly before the cookies set and pressing gently to form an upside-down cup shape (see illustration, page 156). Let cool before removing from the ramekins. Fill as you like, just before serving so they don’t get soggy.

FILLED TUILES Like an especially crisp and buttery cannoli: Just after removing the cookies from the oven, wrap each one around a dowel or the handle of a whisk—something roughly 1½ inches in diameter so the cookie can wrap around it completely with its edges overlapping. Press gently where the edges meet, then set aside to cool. Fill with Whipped Cream or Buttercream.

Molding Tuiles

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To obtain the classic tuile shape, lay the baked but stillsoft cookies over a rolling pin, dowel, or similar object.

Florentines

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 40 minutes, plus time to cool

Elegant with a nutty crunch. Florentines also happen to be simple to make, very low in sugar, and gluten free.

  • 2 cups sliced blanched almonds
  • ⅓ cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 egg white, at room temperature
  • 2 tablespoons grated orange zest
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • Fresh orange juice as needed
  • Butter for greasing

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Combine the almonds, sugar, egg white, orange zest, and salt in a large bowl. If needed, add 1 tablespoon orange juice at a time until the batter holds together.

2. Drop teaspoon-size mounds of batter onto generously greased baking sheets about 3 inches apart. Dip a fork into the remaining orange juice and use the back to spread the batter into very thin circles, about 1½ inches in diameter. Bake until golden brown all over, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool completely on the sheets, then transfer the cookies to wire racks until crisp. These will keep in an airtight container for no more than a day or two.

CHOCOLATE-COATED FLORENTINES Make a batch of Chocolate Ganache and let it cool slightly. Spread about 1 teaspoon over the top of each cookie.

BOURBON-PECAN FLORENTINES Use bourbon in place of orange juice to thin the batter and to dip the fork. Use the orange zest if you like or omit it for a richer bourbon flavor.

Cookies as Edible Containers

Shaping cookies into containers makes for a spectacular presentation, and the process is way easier than it seems. Tuiles, Pizzelle, and Meringues are ideal for the job since they hold a stiff, crisp shape when they cool. Fill just before serving to keep them from getting soggy.

To Make Tuile or Pizzella Cups

Make the cookies as directed. Working quickly while the cookies are still hot, drape each cookie over an upside-down ramekin or small coffee cup and press the sides gently to form a cup. Let cool completely before removing.

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To Make Meringue Cups

Prepare the batter as directed. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper (you can secure the bottom corners with dabs of batter). For a really rustic look, drop large dollops of meringue directly onto the sheet, then scoop out the center to hollow it out.

Otherwise, put the meringue in a pastry bag fitted with a round or star tip at least ¼ inch in diameter (you can also use a plastic zipper bag with a corner cut off, although it won’t be as perfectly shaped).

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STEP 1: Make the bottom first by piping a 3- or 4-inch round spiral, leaving no spaces between rings; circles 3 or 4 inches in diameter make a good single-serving size, or you can go larger if you’re feeding a crowd.

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STEP 2: Then make the “wall” by piping a ring along the outermost bottom ring; top that with another ring if you want a deeper container. Or you can pipe little dollops of meringue along the outer ring to create a peaked wall.

Bake at 300°F until the bowls become hard instead of chewy; 60 to 70 minutes should do it. Let cool on a wire rack before filling.

10 Fillings for Cookie Containers

Use any of these, alone or together; to get really ambitious, try using cookie containers as a vessel to make trifle:

▪ Fresh fruit or Fruit Compote, like berries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, mangoes, cherries, cranberries (cooked), banana, or figs, whole or sliced as needed, alone or atop any of the following fillings

Ice cream or sorbet

▪ Whipped Cream, plain or with any flavorings (page 556)

Chocolate Ganache

Lemon Curd

Caramel Sauce, Butterscotch Sauce, or Dulce de Leche

Vanilla Pastry Cream

Zabaglione

Roasted Nut Butter or Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread

Chocolate Mousse or Lemon Mousse

Piped, Shaped, Rolled, and Molded Cookies

This category throws a wide net, including a diverse collection of cookies that share the characteristic that they need some help in shaping—you can’t just plop them down on a sheet. This takes a number of different techniques, from piping onto the baking sheet to rolling pieces of dough into balls or out flat and cutting it into shapes, cutting single slices from a log, or shaping it through use of a special mold, press, or iron (like Pizzelle). If you don’t mind a more rustic look, you can treat many of these doughs as you would for drop cookies.

Recipes

Sugar Cookies

Chocolate Wafer Cookies

Gingersnaps

Lemon Thins

Classic Shortbread

Cornmeal Cookies

Thumbprint Cookies

Linzer Cookies

Hamantaschen

Fig Bittmans

Snickerdoodles

Mexican Wedding Cookies

Sandies

Almond Biscotti

Whole Wheat Digestive Biscuits

Vanilla Meringues

Ladyfingers

French Macarons

Madeleines

Pizzelle

Sugar Cookies

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: 35 minutes, plus time to chill

This is a versatile foundation recipe you can take in many directions. The dough is soft and easy to handle. Cutout shapes are a holiday staple (see the variations that follow), but slicing logs of dough is easier for everyday enjoyment.

  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • 2 cups granulated sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 2¾ cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • Turbinado or other coarse sugar
  • for rolling (optional)

1. Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until light and fluffy; add the egg and vanilla and beat until light and fluffy, at least 2 minutes.

2. Whisk the flour, baking soda, and salt together in a medium bowl. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and stir just until a sandy dough forms. Form the dough into 2 logs about 2 inches in diameter, wrap tightly in plastic, and chill until firm, about 2 hours or overnight.

3. To bake, heat the oven to 375°F. Unwrap the dough and roll each log in coarse sugar to coat fully if you like. Cut the dough into ¼-inch slices and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake until the edges are starting to brown and the centers are set, 6 to 8 minutes. The cookies will still be very soft and almost seem not quite done when you take them out of the oven; be careful not to overbake. Let sit for a minute on the sheets, then transfer the cookies to a wire rack to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

ROLLED SUGAR COOKIES Great for decorating with Vanilla Glaze or Royal Icing: Shape the dough into a disk instead of logs, wrap tightly in plastic, and chill as directed. To bake, cut the dough disk in half. Lightly flour a work surface and a rolling pin, then roll out the dough gently until about ⅛ inch thick, adding flour as necessary and turning the dough to prevent sticking. Cut with any cookie cutter.

NO-CHILL SUGAR COOKIES No need for rolling, chilling, and slicing if you’re in a hurry: Roll tablespoon-size pieces of dough into balls. Place on the baking sheet, press down lightly with the tines of a fork, sprinkle with coarse sugar, and bake.

CHOCOLATE SUGAR COOKIES Decrease the flour to 2½ cups and add ¼ cup cocoa powder. Melt 3 ounces chopped chocolate and stir it into the dough. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes.

GINGER SPICE COOKIES These are buttery like sugar cookies but warm and spicy like gingersnaps: Add 1 teaspoon ginger, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and ½ teaspoon nutmeg to the dry ingredients. Proceed with the recipe and fold 2 tablespoons chopped candied ginger into the finished dough. If you like, roll the cookies in cinnamon sugar instead of coarse sugar before baking.

BROWN SUGAR COOKIES These have chewy centers and a caramel flavor: Decrease the sugar to 1½ cups and add ½ cup packed light brown sugar. Proceed with the recipe.

ROSEMARY COOKIES A good dessert for those who don’t have a sweet tooth; serve them alongside a good cheese: Decrease the sugar to 1 cup. Add 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary leaves and ½ teaspoon cracked black pepper to the dry ingredients. Omit the vanilla. If you like, use 1 cup olive oil in place of the butter and increase the flour to 3 cups.

CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER PINWHEEL COOKIES Divide the finished dough in half. Stir 2 ounces melted chocolate into one half and ½ cup peanut butter into the other half until well incorporated; it’s okay if the doughs are still lightly marbled; you won’t see this once they’re rolled together. Shape the dough separately into disks, wrap each in plastic, and chill as directed. Roll each disk ¼ inch thick on a piece of wax paper, then stack them; remove one sheet of wax paper and use the other to roll the layers into a single log. Wrap and refrigerate for another 2 hours, then slice into ¼-inch cookies and bake.

JAM SANDWICH COOKIES Like a simpler Linzer (see page 167 for the traditional version): Proceed with the recipe and let the cookies cool completely. Smear 1 teaspoon of your favorite jam between 2 cookies.

BUTTER COOKIES Decrease the sugar to 1 cup and the vanilla to 1 teaspoon. Substitute 1 teaspoon baking powder for the baking soda. Drop the dough into tablespoon-size mounds on the sheets instead of shaping; bake as directed. If you like, sprinkle the tops of the just-baked cookies with a pinch of coarse salt.

LIGHTER SUGAR COOKIES Not as dense and rich as the main recipe; these can be baked right away or chilled and rolled: Use 2 eggs; beat them into the butter mixture until it’s light. Increase the baking soda to 1½ teaspoons; when all the ingredients are just barely combined, mix in ¼ cup milk.

CAKEY SUGAR COOKIES These make a drop cookie, not a slice-and-bake: Replace the baking soda with 2 teaspoons baking powder. Stir half of the dry ingredients into the butter mixture before adding 2 tablespoons milk and the rest of the dry ingredients. Add more milk as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the dough is soft and can be dropped from a spoon. No need to chill. Drop in tablespoon-size mounds onto the baking sheets.

Refrigerator Cookies

Where drop cookies are ready as soon as the dough is mixed up, these require hands-off time for the finished dough to firm up in the refrigerator. And while drop cookies are literally dropped by the spoonful onto the baking sheets, these have more room for precision, and you can change up your method depending on your mood and the occasion. Chill it as a disc, then roll it into a sheet that you can cut it into shapes (perfect for Sugar Cookies, or Gingersnaps,; press it into a log that you can slice and bake directly from the fridge or freezer (unbeatably convenient for any recipe, and even with drop cookie dough); or use your hands to shape it into balls.

All this means a bit of waiting; on the other hand, once there’s dough in your fridge or freezer, cookies can be at your fingertips anytime, which is ideal for making ahead, cranking out huge batches, and spontaneous “I need just-baked cookies warm from the oven right now” snacking. The logs can be frozen pretty much indefinitely. While you can slice them still frozen, letting the logs thaw a bit will make the task a little easier.

Chocolate Wafer Cookies

Makes: About 4 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

This cookie’s sandy texture is similar to that of a shortbread, but it has the added richness of chocolate and a hint of crunch from the salt. It’s a good one to make in advance, then slice and bake at will. It’s also an ideal candidate for dressing up (page 162)—it takes equally well to glazes, rich caramel, puffy whipped cream, and scoops of ice cream. Or use it to make Chocolate Icebox Cake.

  • 1½ cups flour
  • ¾ cup cocoa powder
  • 1 teaspoon coarse salt (such as kosher or sea salt)
  • ¼ teaspoon baking soda
  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • 1 cup sugar

1. Whisk the flour, cocoa, salt, and baking soda in a bowl and set aside.

2. Cream the butter until smooth, then beat in the sugar. Gradually add the flour mixture until just combined. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and shape it into 2 logs about 2 inches in diameter. If you’d prefer to roll the dough and cut perfect circles with a cookie cutter, shape the dough into a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.

3. Heat the oven to 350°F and remove the dough from the refrigerator. When the dough is soft enough to slice but still firm (after about 15 minutes), slice ⅛ inch thick, working quickly so that it doesn’t soften too much. Put the cookies on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart and bake until the edges are firm, about 10 minutes. Cool on the sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container a couple of days.

FAUX-REOS While the cookies are in the oven, make the cream filling by beating 4 ounces softened cream cheese with 4 tablespoons (½ stick) softened butter. Gradually mix in 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and whip until fluffy. Spread or pipe 1 teaspoon of filling on a cooled cookie and sandwich with another.

CHOCOLATE-COVERED MINT COOKIES Add ¾ teaspoon peppermint extract to the dough when you add the sugar. Temper dark chocolate as you would for Chocolate-Dipped Anything; if you like, add another ½ teaspoon peppermint extract to it. Dip the cookies in the chocolate. Alternatively, dip them in chocolate without tempering; store these in the refrigerator to keep the chocolate firm.

CHOCOLATE-ORANGE COOKIES The brightness of orange plays off these buttery cookies particularly well: Add 3 tablespoons grated orange zest along with the sugar.

VANILLA WAFER COOKIES Omit the cocoa powder and increase the flour to 2 cups. Beat 1 tablespoon vanilla extract into the butter and sugar. Cut the chilled logs into ¼-inch slices.

Improvising Cookies

Beyond tweaking the dough itself (see Drop Cookies Your Way), you can vary drop cookies by adding mix-ins, while rolled or shaped dough takes particularly well to toppings. The chart that follows offers inspiration for making cookies your own, with many bells and whistles. These methods will work with any cookie, but the following, which are like blank canvases, are especially suitable:

  • Sugar Cookies
  • Vanilla Meringues
  • Coconut Macaroons
  • Almond Biscotti
  • Classic Shortbread
  • Blondies

ADD-IN: Chocolate

FOR DROP COOKIES: Fold up to 1 cup chopped chocolate into the finished cookie dough, taking care not to overwork.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Substitute up to ¼ cup cocoa powder for ¼ cup flour, roll chilled logs of dough in cocoa powder, or press a piece of chopped chocolate into dough slices. Or fold in chopped chocolate as you would for drop cookies.

ADD-IN: Nuts and Seeds

FOR DROP COOKIES: Fold up to 1 cup chopped nuts or seeds (toasted if you like; see page 57) into the finished dough.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Finely chop nuts or seeds and put them in a shallow bowl. Brush a chilled log of cookie dough with an egg white, then roll it in the bowl; slice and bake as usual.

ADD-IN: Dried Fruit

FOR DROP COOKIES: Fold up to 1 cup dried fruit (chopped if it comes in big pieces) into the dough.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Chop the fruit very finely and gradually add up to 1 cup to the dough before shaping and chilling, making sure the dough isn’t overloaded.

ADD-IN: Citrus Zest

FOR DROP COOKIES: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons grated citrus zest to the creamed butter and sugar mixture.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons grated zest as you would for drop cookies.

ADD-IN: Spices

FOR DROP COOKIES: Try any spice and experiment with different combinations. Add to taste, ¼ teaspoon at a time, with the rest of the dry ingredients. Or use ¼ cup minced candied ginger.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Add ground spices, seeds, or candied ginger as you would for drop cookies.

ADD-IN: Extracts

FOR DROP COOKIES: Add extracts (like vanilla, almond, peppermint, or orange) to the dough, ¼ teaspoon at a time until it tastes right.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Add extracts to the dough as you would for drop cookies.

ADD-IN: Sprinkles

FOR DROP COOKIES: Sprinkle over just-baked cookies and let cool.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Put the sprinkles in a shallow bowl. Brush a log of dough with an egg white, then roll it in the sprinkles. Slice and bake.

ADD-IN: Herbs

FOR DROP COOKIES: Mince fresh herbs—like rosemary or thyme leaves or culinary-grade lavender buds—and add about 1 teaspoon to the finished dough.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Add minced fresh herbs to the dough as you would for drop cookies.

ADD-IN: Booze

FOR DROP COOKIES: Beat in a shot of your favorite liquor or liqueur, like bourbon, spiced rum, or Grand Marnier, just before you add the dry ingredients to the wet.

FOR REFRIGERATOR COOKIES: Add as you would for drop cookies.

Keeping It Round

There are a few things you can do to ensure you end up with nicely shaped slice-and-bake cookies that are as close to round as possible:

  • Before rolling the dough into logs, refrigerate it for 20 to 30 minutes to let it firm up a bit. Sprinkle the work surface with a very light dusting of flour to keep the dough from sticking.
  • Once the logs are wrapped and refrigerated, turn them every 15 minutes until they are fully chilled to prevent one side from flattening. If they begin to flatten, roll the dough in the plastic to eliminate the flat edge.
  • When it’s time to cut the dough, rotate the log after each slice to avoid flattening any one side.

Gingersnaps

Makes: About 4 dozen

Time: About 40 minutes, plus time to chill

Not too sweet—in fact, bordering on savory—these gingersnaps are super-crisp, although they’re also good sliced thicker and undercooked a bit. Try them with Vanilla Buttercream, Cream Cheese Frosting, or Orange Glaze.

  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • 1 cup molasses
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • ½ cup packed brown sugar
  • 3¼ cups flour
  • 1 heaping tablespoon ginger
  • 1 tablespoon cinnamon
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt

1. Cream together the butter, molasses, and sugars in a large bowl until smooth.

2. Combine the flour, spices, baking soda, and salt in a separate bowl. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture, beating well between additions. Shape the dough into 2 logs about 2 inches in diameter, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.

3. Heat the oven to 350°F. Slice the cookies as thinly as you can, about ⅛ inch thick, and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until the edges are crisp, watching carefully to prevent burning. Let cool on the sheets for 2 minutes, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for 3 or 4 days.

MOLASSES-SPICE COOKIES Add ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon allspice, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves along with the ginger and cinnamon.

GINGERBREAD MEN For softer cookies, remove them from the oven when the centers are still puffy and soft: Shape the dough into 2 disks and remove from the refrigerator about 15 minutes before rolling; heat the oven. When the dough is slightly softened, roll it out as thinly as possible; use a cookie cutter to cut out the gingerbread man or hand-cut the shapes if you’re brave. Bake as directed, then cool. Decorate, if you like, with small candies and Vanilla Glaze or Royal Icing.

GINGER ALE COOKIES Extra-chewy with a different kind of ginger flavor: Melt the butter and let it cool slightly before adding the sugars and molasses. Increase the ginger to 1½ tablespoons. Beat in 2 eggs, then alternately add the dry ingredients and ½ cup ginger ale. Add ¼ cup chopped candied ginger if you like. Form the dough into 2 disks, refrigerate for at least 2 hours, and bake tablespoon-size balls on greased baking sheets.

MOCHA SPICE SNAPS Chocolate and espresso may not be obvious complements to ginger, but they’re wonderful together: Decrease the flour to 3 cups and add ½ cup cocoa powder to the dry ingredients along with 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder.

MAPLE SNAPS Substitute maple syrup for the molasses and increase the brown sugar to 1 cup. Omit the granulated sugar. Form the dough into 2 disks and chill until firm, then roll the dough out to ⅛ to ¼ inch thick and cut into circles with a cookie cutter or a glass.

CAKEY GINGER COOKIES Slice the cookie dough ⅓ inch thick. Remove from the oven after about 7 minutes, when they are still puffy in the middle.

PFEFFERNüSSE That’s “peppernuts” in German, for the ground almond and black pepper they contain, a traditional and beloved combination of sweet and savory heat: Decrease the molasses to ½ cup and add ½ cup honey; add 2 eggs to the butter mixture in Step 1. Decrease the flour to 3 cups and add ½ cup almond flour; for spices, decrease the cinnamon and ginger to 1½ teaspoons each and add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest, 1 teaspoon black pepper, ¼ teaspoon ground cloves, and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg. Leave the dough in the bowl, cover, and chill; to bake, scoop the dough out and roll it by hand into balls about 1 inch across. If you like, dust the finished cookies with confectioners’ sugar while they’re still warm.

SPECULAAS A spicy and addictively crunchy Dutch variation: Omit the molasses and increase the sugars to 1 cup each. Reduce the flour to 2 cups, the ginger to ½ teaspoon, and the cinnamon to 1 teaspoon. To the flour mixture, add ½ teaspoon white pepper, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon cardamom. Shape the dough into 2 disks before refrigerating; remove from the refrigerator and let soften slightly, then roll out to ¼ inch thick. The dough may crumble a bit, but that’s normal. Cut with cookie cutters or by hand.

How to Dress Up Any Cookie

COAT THE DOUGH

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How-To

Brush logs of chilled dough with egg white, then roll in any topping, or scoop balls of chilled dough and roll individually.

What You Need

Finely chopped nuts or seeds, cocoa powder, confectioners’ sugar, coarse sugar, cinnamon sugar, sprinkles, shredded unsweetened coconut

Best Cookie to Use

Sugar Cookies, Classic Shortbread, Cornmeal Cookies, Gingersnaps, Chocolate Wafer Cookies, Lemon Thins

CUT THE DOUGH

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How-To

Shape the dough into a disk, chill it, then roll it out between pieces of plastic wrap or parchment. Use cookie cutters or a paring knife to cut shapes.

What You Need

Nothing

Best Cookie to Use

Rolled Sugar Cookies, Whole Wheat Digestive Biscuits, Gingerbread Men, Speculaas, Rolled Shortbread

DRIZZLE THE COOKIES

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How-To

Dip a whisk, fork, or toothpick into a glaze or thin sauce and lightly drizzle over baked, cooled cookies.

What You Need

Lemon Glaze, Jam Glaze, Rich Chocolate Sauce, Chocolate Ganache, Caramel Sauce, Butterscotch Sauce, Balsamic Syrup

Best Cookie to Use

Any cookie

DECORATE WITH ICING

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How-To

Use a pastry bag (directions) to “draw” designs on rolled cookies. Dye the icing or add sprinkles or dragées if you like.

What You Need

Royal Icing

Best Cookie to Use

Rolled Sugar Cookies, Classic Shortbread, Gingerbread Men

ADD FROSTING OR SAUCE

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How-To

Spread a layer of frosting over the tops of baked, cooled cookies, or dunk the cookies in thinner sauces.

What You Need

Whipped Cream, Buttercream, Chocolate Ganache, Caramel Sauce, Butterscotch Sauce, Dulce de Leche, Fruit Jam, Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread, Lemon Curd, Crème Anglaise

Best Cookie to Use

Any cookie

MAKE A COOKIE SANDWICH

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How-To

Spread the bottom of one cookie with frosting, sauce, or slightly softened ice cream or sorbet, then sandwich with another cookie.

What You Need

Any ice cream or sorbet, your favorite frosting, Chocolate Ganache, Caramel Sauce, Dulce de Leche, Fruit Jam, Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread, Roasted Nut Butter

Best Cookie to Use

Any cookie

DIP IN CHOCOLATE

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How-To

Dip a cooled cookie into melted or tempered chocolate (see Chocolate-Dipped Anything) and let set.

What You Need

Melted (or tempered, optional) chocolate

Best Cookie to Use

Any cookie

USE AS A GARNISH

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How-To

Top off other desserts with cookies for an impressive, 5-star presentation.

What You Need

Your favorite ice cream or sorbet, Chocolate Mousse, any frosted cake or cupcake

Best Cookie to Use

Any cookie

Lemon Thins

Makes: About 4 dozen cookies

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

These wafers are crisp and light, not too tart or too sweet. Switch in any citrus you like and try them sandwiched with Strawberry (or Any Berry) Ice Cream.

  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1.Whisk together the flour, salt, and baking soda and set aside.

2. Cream the butter, sugar, and lemon zest until smooth, then beat in the lemon juice and vanilla. Slowly add the flour mixture and stir until just combined. Shape the dough into 2 logs about 2 inches in diameter, wrap it tightly in plastic, and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.

3. To bake, heat the oven to 350°F. Slice the dough ¼ inch thick and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the edges are golden. Cool on the sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a couple of days.

LEMON-THYME WAFERS Finely chop 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves and add it to the dough in place of the vanilla.

LEMON-GINGER WAFERS Add 1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger to the dough when you add the lemon zest.

Classic Shortbread

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 20 minutes, plus time to chill

Shortbread cookies taste predominantly of butter, the principal ingredient. How great is that? This makes them very tender with a crisp, crumbly texture. You can prepare them in a number of ways, and the finished cookies freeze wonderfully—just thaw at room temperature.

For more flavor, add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, ½ teaspoon almond extract, or 1 teaspoon cinnamon or see the variations. Shortbread goes superbly with a number of toppings: citrus curd, Fruit Jam, Chocolate Ganache Glaze, or even Whipped Cream.

  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • ⅔ cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ teaspoon salt

1. Using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugar on low speed, just until combined, 30 seconds or so. Still on low speed, beat in the egg yolk, then the flour and salt, until the mixture barely holds together; this will take a few minutes. Take care to not overwork the dough.

2. Shape the dough into 2 logs about 2 inches in diameter. Wrap the logs tightly in plastic and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour or overnight.

3. Heat the oven to 275°F. Slice the logs ¼ inch thick and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake until just firm but still quite tender and not at all brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool for a minute on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. Store on a plate, uncovered, for no more than a day.

CAKE PAN SHORTBREAD Grease two 8- or 9-inch cake pans. Divide the dough in half and press each piece evenly into a pan. Use a fork to prick a few holes into the dough; this will keep it from bubbling when it bakes. Chill until firm, at least 30 minutes. Bake until the top is barely golden, 35 to 40 minutes. Immediately turn out the shortbread onto a plate and use a knife or pizza cutter to cut it into wedges or bars.

ROLLED SHORTBREAD Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, at least 1 hour. Roll it ¼ inch thick on a lightly floured surface, turning the dough as you work to prevent sticking, then cut it into shapes. Bake until lightly golden, 15 to 20 minutes.

WHOLE WHEAT SHORTBREAD Whole wheat gives the shortbread a nice nutty flavor: Add another egg yolk and replace the all-purpose flour with whole wheat flour. These are good sprinkled with crunchy sugar, like turbinado or muscovado, before baking.

NUT SHORTBREAD Substitute ½ cup nut flour (see page 15 to make your own) for ½ cup of the all-purpose flour. Add ¾ cup finely chopped toasted nuts to the dough before chilling. If you like, add ½ teaspoon cardamom or nutmeg along with the flour.

LEMON SHORTBREAD Citrusy tang lightens these dense, buttery cookies: Add 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest to the dough. For an even stronger lemon flavor, drizzle the cooled cookies with Lemon Glaze.

CHOCOLATE SHORTBREAD Substitute ½ cup cocoa powder for ½ cup of the flour and fold ½ cup or so finely chopped dark chocolate into the dough before chilling.

MAPLE SEMOLINA SHORTBREAD Semolina flour accentuates the sandy texture, while maple adds a delicate sweetness: Decrease the flour to 1⅔ cups and add ½ cup semolina flour. Replace the sugar with ⅔ cup maple syrup.

PETIT BEURRE COOKIES A French grocery store staple; even better if you can find a cookie cutter to achieve the signature scalloped edges: Use only 1¼ sticks of butter and replace the confectioners’ sugar with ½ cup granulated sugar. Melt them together in a saucepan or microwave until the sugar is dissolved; let cool before proceeding. Replace the egg yolk with 2 tablespoons milk, cream, or crème fraîche. Knead the finished dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, at least 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Let thaw slightly, then roll out the dough very thin, about ⅛ inch thick, and use a knife or cookie cutter to cut shapes. Prick the cookies with a fork and bake until lightly golden, 8 to 10 minutes.

ALFAJORES Quite possibly the most underrated sandwich cookie: Bake the cookies and let cool completely, then spread 2 teaspoons Dulce de Leches between 2 cookies.

Cornmeal Cookies

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

These cookies have the pleasantly crumbly texture of shortbread with the flavor and crunch of cornmeal. They’re only lightly sweet, which makes them a wonderful and sophisticated dessert or snack. Spread them with Fruit Jam for something a little sweeter.

  • 1½ cups flour
  • 1 cup cornmeal
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ⅔ cup sugar
  • 2 eggs, at room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)

1. Whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

2. Cream the butter and sugar in a large bowl until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each addition, and the vanilla if you’re using it. Stir in the flour mixture until just incorporated. Form the dough into 2 logs about 2 inches in diameter, wrap tightly in plastic, and chill until firm, about 2 hours or overnight.

3. Heat the oven to 375°F. Cut the dough into ¼-inch slices and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until lightly golden. Cool on the sheets for a few minutes before transferring the cookies to wire racks to cool completely. These will keep in an airtight container for 3 or 4 days.

CORNMEAL-LIME COOKIES Substitute 1 tablespoon grated lime zest for the vanilla extract.

ITALIAN RAISIN COOKIES Or try dried cherries or blueberries for a tangier twist: Place ¾ cup raisins in a bowl and cover with rum or red wine. Let soak for 30 minutes, then drain and toss with 1 tablespoon flour to keep from sticking. Fold the raisins into the dough.

Thumbprint Cookies

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

These are quick and a bit chewy like Sugar Cookies, but with the buttery denseness of Classic Shortbread. They get their name because you press your thumb into the dough to create a little well for filling. Jam is a classic, but between the dough and the filling you have double the opportunity to play around with other flavor combinations.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 egg
  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup Fruit Jam or Orange Marmalade

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Using an electric mixer, cream together the butter and sugar in a large bowl; add the vanilla and egg and beat until well blended.

2. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a separate bowl. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the dough and beat until just combined. (At this point you can form the dough into a disk, wrap it well, and refrigerate or freeze it.)

3. Scoop out the dough and roll it by hand into 1½-inch balls. Press the pad of your thumb into the center of each ball to make a shallow indentation. Put the cookies on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Pipe or spoon a teaspoon of the jam into each thumbprint. Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until the edges are lightly browned. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

NUTTY THUMBPRINT COOKIES Decrease the flour to 1½ cups; add ¾ cup nut flour (see page 15 to make your own) to the flour mixture in Step 2.

CHOCOLATE CHUNK THUMBPRINT COOKIES Chop 3 ounces dark chocolate and reserve one-third of it; fold the rest into the dough. Bake without filling. Immediately upon removing the cookies from the oven, put a chocolate chunk (about the size of a raisin) into the thumbprint; it will melt, then set.

LEMON CURD THUMBPRINT COOKIES Add 1 tablespoon each grated lemon zest and fresh lemon juice at the end of Step 1. Bake the cookies without filling; when they are cool, fill the thumbprint with Lemon Curd.

KEY LIME PIE THUMBPRINT COOKIES Follow the lemon curd variation above, substituting limes for the lemons. Replace all of the granulated sugar with ⅔ cup packed brown sugar. Crush 5 graham crackers into very fine crumbs; they should make about ½ cup. Decrease the flour to 1¾ cups and fold the graham cracker crumbs in with it. Bake, cool, and fill with Lime Curd.

CHEESECAKE THUMBPRINT COOKIES Beat 4 ounces softened cream cheese with 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar, 1 egg yolk, ½ teaspoon vanilla extract, and a pinch of salt. Pipe or spoon it into the thumbprints before baking.

Linzer Cookies

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

With their subtle almond flavor, crisp and buttery texture, and fruity center, these are impressive but not showy, a mainstay on any cookie tray. To show off the filling, cut a “window” from half of the cookies and use those as the top layer. You’re not limited to the traditional jam filling, either—Lemon Curd, Caramel Sauce, and Chocolate Ganache are also fantastic.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 3 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups flour
  • ¾ cup almond flour (see page 15 to make your own)
  • 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup Fruit Jam or Orange Marmalade
  • Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

1. Cream together the butter and sugar in a large bowl, then add the lemon juice, egg, and vanilla. Beat until fully incorporated.

2. In a separate bowl, combine the flours, lemon zest, cinnamon, baking powder, and salt. Gradually add this to the butter mixture and mix until just combined. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface, shape it into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill until firm, at least 1 hour.

3. Heat the oven to 375°F. Roll the dough ¼ inch thick on a floured surface and cut it into uniform shapes; if you like, cut smaller shapes out of half of the cookies to create “windows.” Gather any scraps, gently shape into another disk, and chill again before re-rolling and cutting more cookies.

4. Arrange the cookies about 1 inch apart on ungreased baking sheets and bake until the edges are lightly brown, 8 to 12 minutes. Cool for a few minutes on the sheets before transferring to a wire rack to cool completely. Spread a thin layer of jam on one cookie and sandwich it with another (using the cookies with windows for the tops); finish with an even dusting of confectioners’ sugar. Store in an airtight container for no longer than 2 days.

Hamantaschen

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 45 minutes, plus time to chill

Traditionally eaten on the Jewish holiday of Purim, these have a distinctive triangular shape that gives you extra-crisp shortbread corners with a soft, filled center. The orange zest and juice in the dough are traditional, adding a little extra tart sweetness against the jam; see the variations for other ideas. You can make these pareve by substituting ½ cup neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, for the butter, although the texture won’t be quite as delicate.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons grated orange zest
  • 2 tablespoons orange juice
  • 1 egg
  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup Fruit Jam or Orange Marmalade

1. In a large bowl with an electric mixer, cream together the butter and sugar; add the orange zest, juice, and egg and beat until well blended.

2. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a separate bowl. Gradually add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and beat until just combined. Shape the dough into a disc, wrap it in plastic, and chill until firm, at least 1 hour.

3. Heat the oven to 375°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough to ⅛- to ¼ inch thick, flouring and rotating the dough as needed to keep it from sticking. Use a cookie cutter or the rim of a glass to cut it into 3-inch circles. Gather any scraps into a disc, wrap, and chill once again before re-rolling and cutting.

4. Spoon 1 teaspoon jam or marmalade into the center of each round and fold up the edges to form triangles (see illustrations, below). Pinch the corners to seal. Bake on ungreased baking sheets until the cookies are lightly brown on the edges, 8 to 12 minutes. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets, then transfer to racks to finish cooling. Store these in an airtight container for a day or two.

POPPY SEED HAMANTASCHEN Poppy seeds’ earthy, slightly bitter, and nutty flavor goes so well with the shortbread: Grind ½ cup poppy seeds and combine them in a saucepan with ½ cup each honey and milk and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently, and cook until the mixture reduces and is thick. Remove from heat and stir in another tablespoon of orange zest. Cool completely before using.

KEY LIME HAMANTASCHEN Use lime zest and juice instead of orange; shape and bake the cookies without any filling. Once they have completely cooled, pipe or spoon 1 teaspoon Lime Curd into the center.

Shaping Hamantaschen

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STEP 1

Spoon jam into the center of each cookie.

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STEP 2

Fold up the edges on three sides.

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STEP 3

Pinch the corners to seal.

Cookies for Any Occasion or Season

You may not think of cookies as seasonal food, but indeed different times of year are marked by their cookies. Whether you’re eating warm spices in fall, making holiday gifts in winter, or celebrating warm weather produce, here are some cookies to help you enjoy the season.

Spring

COOKIE: Hamantaschen, for the Jewish holiday Purim; Lemon Thins for something sunny and light

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Fruit Jam or Orange Marmalade

Spring or Summer

COOKIE: Pavlova, to highlight peak-season produce

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Raw, perfectly ripe soft fruit, like berries, peaches, apricots, plums, or cherries; Whipped Cream; Vanilla Pastry Cream; Lemon Curd

Summer

COOKIE: Strawberry-Lemon Blondies, to eat on the front porch

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Whipped Cream, Lemon Curd, Lemon Glaze, Jam Glaze, Fruit Jam

Summer

COOKIE: Zucchini Cookies, to use that bumper crop

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Lemon Glaze, raw Fruit Sauce, Lemon Curd, Fruit Jam

Fall

COOKIE: Pumpkin Cookies or Pumpkin Bars, in keeping with pumpkin-spiced everything

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Cream Cheese Frosting, Caramel Sauce, Butterscotch Sauce, Apple Butter

Fall or Winter

COOKIE: Gingersnaps, Gingerbread Men, Pfeffernüsse, or Speculaas—warm spices for cold days

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Royal Icing, Hard Sauce, Caramel Sauce, Butterscotch Sauce, Dulce de Leche

Winter

COOKIE: Rolled Sugar Cookies or Gingerbread Men, the perfect all-purpose gift

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Lemon Glaze, Jam Glaze, any frosting, Royal Icing, Chocolate Ganache, Lemon Curd, Fruit Jam

Winter

COOKIE: Peanut Butter Pinwheel Cookies, Flourless Chocolate Almond cookies, Linzer Cookies, Almond Biscotti, Pignoli Cookies, French Macarons, Madeleines, or Florentines, for the cookie swaps

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: No need for garnish, although these make a memorable gift along with a jar of Roasted Nut Butter, Fruit Jam, or Caramel Sauce

Winter

COOKIE: Chocolate-Covered Mint Cookies, for dunking into hot chocolate

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Fancy as is

Winter

COOKIE: Fruitcake Bars, for not-too-sweet snacking or cross-country care packages

HOW TO DRESS IT UP: Hard Sauce, Butterscotch Sauce, Crème Anglaise, or Fruit Jam

Fig Bittmans

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 45 minutes, plus time to chill

This snacktime favorite is soft and chewy, with a warm, subtle sweetness and a pop of citrus. The fig filling is so simple but has an irresistibly caramel-like texture.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ¾ cup brown sugar
  • 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 1 egg
  • 3 tablespoons grated orange zest
  • 2 cups flour
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 8 ounces dried figs, chopped
  • 1 cup orange juice

1. Combine the butter and sugar in a large bowl and beat them together with an electric mixer until fluffy. Beat in 1 teaspoon of the vanilla and the egg until well blended, then add the zest.

2. In a separate bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Gradually mix the dry ingredients into the butter mixture until just combined. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and chill for at least 1 hour, or until firm.

3. Make the filling while the dough chills. Combine the figs and orange juice in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the figs are soft, then drain and purée with the remaining ½ teaspoon vanilla. Set aside to cool.

4. Heat the oven to 375°F. On a lightly floured surface, divide the dough into quarters and roll each piece into a long rectangle about 4 inches wide; square off the edges of the dough as needed to keep it relatively even. Spoon the fig filling evenly down the middle of each piece of dough and fold up the sides of the dough around it lengthwise; press gently to seal. Bake on ungreased baking sheets, seam side down, for about 15 minutes or until the logs are evenly golden. Cut into squares while they are still warm and store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Snickerdoodles

Makes: 3 to 4 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

You can spot a Snickerdoodle on the crowded bake sale table by its crackly cinnamon-sugar surface and its ardent fans. Most recipes call for cream of tartar and baking soda, but it’s simpler to just use baking powder, which gives a tangy flavor and leavens in one ingredient.

  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • 1¾ cups sugar
  • 2 large eggs
  • 2¾ cups flour
  • 1 tablespoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 2 tablespoons cinnamon

1. Cream the butter and 1½ cups of the sugar together in a large bowl; add the eggs one at a time and beat until just combined.

2. In a separate bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture and beat until just incorporated. Cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or overnight.

3. When you’re ready to bake the cookies, heat the oven to 350°F.

4. In a small bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup sugar and the cinnamon. Roll tablespoon-size mounds of dough into balls, then coat them in the cinnamon sugar and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Bake for about 10 minutes, until set in the center. Cool for about 2 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

CARDAMOMDOODLES A Scandinavian touch: Substitute 2 teaspoons cardamom for the cinnamon.

HORCHATA COOKIES Like the Spanish drink, these cookies are made with rice so they’re naturally gluten free: Substitute 2 cups white rice flour and ⅔ cup cornstarch for the all-purpose flour. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract along with the eggs and fold 1 cup finely chopped almonds into the dough before chilling.

Mexican Wedding Cookies

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

This simple cookie has a buttery tenderness, while the nuts give it some crumble. Its resemblance to a snowball makes it a fun holiday cookie, but it’s just as good the rest of the year.

  • 2 sticks butter, softened
  • 1¾ cups confectioners’ sugar, plus more if needed
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 cup finely chopped nuts (like walnuts, hazelnuts, pecans, or almonds)
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon (optional)

1. In a large bowl with an electric mixer, beat the butter until light and fluffy. Add ¾ cup of the confectioners’ sugar and the vanilla and beat until creamed together.

2. Combine the flour, nuts, and salt in a bowl. Add this to the butter mixture and beat until just combined; the dough will be crumbly.

3. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or as long as 2 days.

4. Heat the oven to 350°F. Working quickly so it doesn’t soften, tear small pieces of dough from the disk and roll them by hand into 1-inch balls. Put on ungreased baking sheets about 1 inch apart and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tops are just turning brown and the bottoms are golden brown.

5. Put the remaining 1 cup sugar in a pie plate or shallow bowl and combine it with the cinnamon if you’re using it. Cool the cookies on the sheets just until you can handle them; use a spatula to transfer them in batches to the sugar. Gently roll each one until coated, then transfer to wire racks to finish cooling. Roll them in the sugar again once cooled. These will keep in an airtight container for a day or two.

TOASTED MEXICAN WEDDING COOKIES For a warmer, richer flavor: Toast the nuts in a 300°F oven until fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes, before chopping them.

ALMOND SNOWBALLS Use almonds for the nuts and substitute ½ teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla.

CHOCOLATE-FILLED MEXICAN WEDDING COOKIES A pleasant surprise: In Step 4, tuck a small chunk of bittersweet chocolate into the center of each ball of dough. Mix a spoonful of cocoa powder into the confectioners’ sugar you use to coat the cookies instead of or along with the cinnamon.

GREEK CHRISTMAS COOKIES This traditional cookie is subtly flavored by the alcohol: Add 1 egg yolk to the creamed butter and sugar, then beat in 2 tablespoons ouzo or cognac. To the dry ingredients, add ½ teaspoon baking powder. After chilling, shape the dough into balls or crescents.

Sandies

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

This shortbread gets its name from its fine, sandy texture. Made with pecans, it’s a classic, but try it with other nuts too—all work wonderfully. Toasted nuts make for a deeper flavor and aren’t much trouble if you prepare the rest of the dough while they’re in the oven, but you can just as easily use raw nuts.

  • 1½ cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon baking powder
  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • ¾ cup confectioners’ sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup nuts, toasted and finely chopped
  • 36 whole nuts or nut halves

1. Combine the flour, salt, and baking powder in a bowl. Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Beat in the vanilla, then add the flour mixture and beat until just combined. Fold the chopped nuts into the dough. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

2. When you’re ready to bake, heat the oven to 350°F. Roll the dough into tablespoon-size balls and put on ungreased baking sheets about 2 inches apart. Flatten slightly, press a whole or half nut on top of each for garnish, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until lightly browned. Let rest on the sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for 3 days.

ALMOND OLIVE OIL COOKIES Use a good, mild oil, which won’t overpower the almonds but will give you an exceptionally tender cookie: Use almonds. Decrease the butter to 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) and add ⅓ cup olive oil.

ORANGE-PISTACHIO COOKIES Use pistachios. Add 3 tablespoons grated orange zest to the flour mixture and 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice along with the vanilla.

Almond Biscotti

Makes: 1 to 2 dozen

Time: About 1½ hours, largely unattended

If you think of biscotti as tooth-breakingly hard, these cookies will be a revelation. Two stints in the oven give them a clean, audible crunch that absorbs coffee wonderfully but is equally enjoyable on its own. The dough is nearly endlessly adaptable too, so try adding your favorite spices or nuts.

  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened, plus more for greasing
  • 2 cups flour, plus more for dusting
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ¾ teaspoon almond extract
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup almonds, toasted and chopped

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a baking sheet and dust it with flour; tap the sheet over the sink to remove excess flour.

2. Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl until light and fluffy. Add the eggs one at a time, then the vanilla and almond extracts; beat until well blended.

3. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt in a separate bowl. Add this to the butter mixture a little at a time, beating until just combined. Stir in the almonds.

4. On a well-floured surface, divide the dough in half and form each half into a loaf about 2 inches wide, 6 inches long, and 1 inch high, taking care to shape them as uniformly as possible so they bake evenly. You can lightly roll the top with a rolling pin to smooth it out. Put the loaves a few inches apart on the prepared baking sheet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until they’re golden and beginning to crack on top. (Use 2 baking sheets if the loaves will crowd each other.) Cool the logs on the sheet for a few minutes, then transfer them both to a wire rack. Lower the oven temperature to 250°F.

5. When the loaves are cool enough to handle, carefully move them to a cutting board and use a serrated knife to slice each diagonally into ½-inch-thick slices (see the illustrations following the recipe). Put the cookies back on the baking sheet, cut side down; it’s okay now if they are close to each other. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, turning the biscotti halfway through cooking, until they dry out. Cool on racks. These will keep in an airtight container for up to a week.

HAZELNUT BISCOTTI Substitute blanched hazelnuts for the almonds. Omit the almond extract. (If you can find only skin-on hazelnuts, toast them whole, then wrap in a tea towel and rub vigorously to remove most of the bitter skin.)

PINE NUT BISCOTTI Omit the almond extract and replace the almonds with 1 cup pine nuts. No need to toast them.

CHOCOLATE BISCOTTI Dark, rich, and perfect with a cappuccino: Decrease the flour to 1½ cups and add ½ cup cocoa powder. Coarsely chop 2 ounces dark chocolate and stir it into the dough. Keep the almonds if you like.

CHOCOLATE-DIPPED BISCOTTI A dip in chocolate is always a crowd pleaser: While the biscotti are cooling, place a piece of parchment or foil under the racks. Chop 8 ounces chocolate and melt it with 3 tablespoons butter, then dip half of each biscotti in the mixture, tapping them on the rim to get rid of excess. Let set on the racks.

ESPRESSO BISCOTTI If you love dunking biscotti in coffee, this variation cuts out the middleman: Add 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder to the flour mixture.

ANISE BISCOTTI For licorice lovers: Substitute 1½ teaspoons anise extract for the almond extract and add 2 tablespoons grated lemon or orange zest along with it.

BISCOTTI DI LATTE With a softer, milder flavor from milk, these are excellent dipped in tea: Add ⅓ cup whole milk when you add the eggs. Increase the flour to 3 cups; omit the almonds and almond extract. If the dough is too sticky to handle right away, cover the bowl and chill for 30 minutes before shaping the loaves.

RUSKS This South African cookie is like an airier, lightly spiced, and tangy biscotti: Decrease the sugar to-cup. Use only 1 egg; after you add it, beat in-cup buttermilk. Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon to the flour mixture. If the dough is too sticky to handle right away, cover the bowl and chill for 30 minutes before shaping the loaves.

8 Ideas for Flavoring Biscotti

Biscotti dough is very accommodating of add-ins, and the cookies are especially pretty when you see a couple different items embedded within the slices. Here are a few ideas to get the ball rolling—use them alone or in combination.

  • Combine 2 teaspoons ground fennel or anise with the dry ingredients or replace the almond extract with 1 teaspoon anise extract.
  • Stir 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ½ teaspoon cardamom, and/or any other favorite spice into the dry ingredients.
  • Add 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, thyme, or culinary-grade lavender buds when you’re adding the extracts.
  • Mince or grate 2 teaspoons citrus zest and add it with the vanilla.
  • Use other nuts or seeds instead of almonds.
  • Fold ¾ cup dried fruit, like raisins, cherries, or cranberries, into the prepared dough before shaping it.
  • Mix about ¼ cup minced candied ginger into the dry ingredients.
  • Beat in a shot of liqueur after adding the eggs.

Making Biscotti

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STEP 1

Use a serrated knife to cut the baked biscotti loaves on the diagonal.

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STEP 2

Return the biscotti to the baking sheet and finish baking.

Whole Wheat Digestive Biscuits

Makes: 2 to 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

Forget the frowsy name and think of these beloved British cookies as glorified graham crackers: crunchy, oaty, and subtly sweet. What they lack in excitement they make up in versatility, and they go just as well with a slice of cheese as they do a dip in chocolate. Pastry flour makes a more tender cookie, but regular whole wheat flour works fine too. Anglophile purists should use muscovado sugar instead of the dark brown sugar.

  • 2 cups whole wheat pastry flour or regular whole wheat flour
  • 1½ cups rolled oats
  • ⅓ cup muscovado or dark brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1½ sticks cold butter, plus butter for greasing
  • 2-3 tablespoons milk, if needed
  • All-purpose flour for the work surface

1. Pulse the flour, oats, brown sugar, baking powder, and salt in a food processor until coarsely ground. Cut the butter into rough cubes and add it to the processor, pulsing until the butter is in small pieces and the mixture resembles bread crumbs. If necessary, add milk 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough is just incorporated. Shape the dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or overnight.

2. When you’re ready to bake, heat the oven to 350°F and lightly grease baking sheets. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let warm until soft enough to roll but still cool. Lightly flour a work surface and a rolling pin and roll gently until about ¼ inch thick, being careful not to overwork; add flour as necessary and turn the dough to prevent sticking. The dough may crumble a bit, but you can easily mend it back together. Cut with a round cookie cutter and transfer to the prepared baking sheets 2 inches apart.

3. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool for about 5 minutes on the sheets before transferring the cookies to wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for about 3 days.

CHOCOLATE-COVERED DIGESTIVE BISCUITS Melt 8 ounces semisweet chocolate with 3 tablespoons butter. Brush this mixture over the tops of the cookies once they have cooled completely. Cool on the rack until the chocolate coating is firm.

Vanilla Meringues

Makes: 4 to 5 dozen

Time: About 2 hours, largely unattended

Light, sweet, and low in fat, meringues are the perfect use for leftover egg whites. These are sort of chewy on the inside, with a crackly exterior. Meringue takes well to all kinds of add-ins, and the baked cookies can be topped or filled with Macerated Fruit, Fruit Jam, Whipped Cream, or Lemon Curd. Because they’re so airy, excess moisture can make them deflate, so add a teaspoon of cornstarch along with the salt if it’s humid.

  • 4 egg whites at room temperature
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup superfine sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
  • Up to 1 cup add-ins, like chopped nuts, chocolate, and/or dried fruit (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the salt and beat for 1 minute. While beating, slowly pour in the sugar and then the vanilla and cream of tartar and beat until the mixture makes stiff peaks. Fold in the add-ins if you’re using them.

2. Use a pastry bag, a zipper bag with a corner cut off, or a spoon to pipe or form small mounds of meringue, each a couple tablespoons (larger if you like); you can keep them close together since they won’t spread.

3. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until hard and very lightly browned. Transfer the meringues from the baking sheets to wire racks to cool for at least 30 minutes before eating. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

CHOCOLATE MERINGUES Intense, melting bittersweet taste: Use the best chocolate you can here, as the big chunks are front and center in this delicate cookie: Gently fold ¼ cup cocoa powder and 2 ounces chopped dark chocolate into the meringues at the end of Step 1.

MOCHA MERINGUES A bit of a coffee kick: Follow the preceding variation, substituting 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder for the dark chocolate.

NUT MERINGUES Nuts enhance the chewiness: Fold ¾ cup nut flour and 1 teaspoon cornstarch into the finished batter.

SWEET SESAME MERINGUES An unusual flavor that begs for a drizzle of honey: Toast ¾ cup sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until golden and fold them into the meringue batter at the end.

PAVLOVA A meringue “cake” that you can fill with fruit, whipped cream, even caramel: Pile the meringue into the center of the parchment-lined baking sheet and spread it into a circle about 9 inches in diameter, with the edges slightly taller than the center. Bake for 1 hour, then turn off the oven and let the pavlova cool completely before removing it and then filling it as you choose.

Piping Meringues

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Use a pastry bag or a zipper bag with a corner snipped off to pipe the meringue into mounds on parchment-lined baking sheets.

Ladyfingers

Makes: 4 to 5 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

These soft, spongy cookies are perfect in Tiramisu, where they soak up all the flavors but hold a bit of their shape; they’d also be great in other layered desserts like Strawberry Trifle, Raspberry Fool, or Summer Pudding.

  • 4 eggs, separated, at room temperature
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ cup superfine sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
  • ¾ cup flour
  • Confectioners’ sugar for dusting

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until foamy. Add the salt and beat for about 1 minute. While beating, slowly pour in 2 tablespoons of the sugar, then add the vanilla and cream of tartar and beat until the mixture forms stiff peaks.

2. In a separate bowl, beat the yolks with the remaining sugar for a few minutes, until they’re thick and pale yellow. Stir in the flour, then gently fold this mixture into the whipped egg whites until barely combined, handling the mixture as little as possible so as not to deflate it. Scrape the batter into a pastry bag or large zipper bag with the corner snipped off; pipe it onto the prepared sheets in 3-inch lines, about ½ inch wide. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until firm but spongy. Use the parchment to transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

French Macarons

Makes: About 3 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to rest

French macarons—not to be confused with chewy, coconut-based macaroons—are made of wispy almond meringues sandwiched with a gooey filling like jam, buttercream, or ganache. They might take a bit of practice to perfect, but the process isn’t difficult and it’s certainly faster than a trip to Paris.

  • 4 large egg whites
  • 1⅓ cups (4½ ounces) almond flour
  • 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • ¼ cup granulated sugar
  • ½ cup raspberry jam, homemade or store-bought

1. Place the egg whites in a bowl or airtight container, cover tightly, and let sit at room temperature for 24 hours.

2. Sift the almond flour and confectioners’ sugar into a bowl. If you ground the almonds yourself, first pulse them in a food processor with the confectioners’ sugar until the mixture is uniform.

3. Use an electric mixer to beat the egg whites until fluffy. Add the granulated sugar in intervals, beating after each addition until fully incorporated. Increase the mixer’s speed and beat the mixture until it holds very stiff peaks. Gradually add the almond flour mixture, using a rubber spatula to fold the batter thoroughly but gently until smooth.

4. Line baking sheets with parchment paper. Use a pastry bag fitted with a large round tip, a zipper bag with a corner cut off, or a spoon to pipe or form 1-inch rounds about 1 inch apart, keeping the tip close to the sheet and aiming for a flat surface rather than a peak (see illustrations). If you do get a peak, smooth it down with a wet fingertip. Let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes and heat the oven to 300°F. If you don’t have multiple baking sheets to pipe all the batter at once, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the first batch is done; let the sheet cool completely, then pipe and bake the remaining shells right away.

5. Bake the shells for 12 to 15 minutes, until firm and barely golden. Cool completely on the sheets, then remove the cookies by carefully peeling away the parchment. To fill, spread about 1 teaspoon of jam on the flat surface of one cookie and sandwich it with another. These will keep, refrigerated, in an airtight container for no more than 5 days; bring to room temperature before serving. They also freeze well.

MACARON CAKE One giant macaron: Make the batter as directed. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper; on each, pipe half of the batter evenly in a spiral about 8 inches in diameter. Bake until firm, about 30 minutes.

ITALIAN ALMOND COOKIES This traditional Italian cookie was the original inspiration for macarons, although it’s much denser and not filled: Increase the almond flour to 2 cups and the granulated sugar to 2/3 cup and eliminate the confectioners’ sugar. Stop beating the egg whites when they form soft peaks and mix the dough until fully incorporated (you may need to knead with your hands). Form the dough into tablespoon-size mounds before baking and coat with sliced almonds. Bake for about 25 minutes, until lightly browned.

Flavoring and Filling Macarons

Don’t be shy about mixing and matching these cookie flavors and fillings; the cookies are so lightly flavored to begin with that you could change only the filling and still get radically different results.

COOKIE: CHOCOLATE Sift ¼ cup cocoa powder with the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour.

FILLING: Chocolate Ganache

COOKIE: COFFEE Sift 1½ teaspoons instant espresso powder with the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour.

FILLING: Espresso Buttercream or Not-Too-Sweet Coffee Buttercream

COOKIE: MOCHA Sift ¼ cup cocoa powder and 1½ teaspoons instant espresso powder with the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour.

FILLING: Chocolate Ganache, infused with coffee

COOKIE: CITRUS Fold 1 tablespoon grated lemon or lime zest into the finished batter.

FILLING: Lemon Curd, Lime Curd, Fruit Jam, or Orange Marmalade

COOKIE: PISTACHIO Decrease the almond flour to 1 cup and add ⅓ cup finely ground unsalted pistachios.

FILLING: Roasted Nut Butter or Pistachio Buttercream

COOKIE: PRALINE Decrease the almond flour to 1 cup and add ⅓ cup finely ground toasted pecans.

FILLING: Caramel Sauce or Butterscotch Sauce

COOKIE: CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT Decrease the almond flour to 1 cup and add ⅓ cup finely ground toasted hazelnuts.

FILLING: Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread

COOKIE: VANILLA BEAN Beat the seeds scraped from one vanilla bean pod with the egg whites along with the granulated sugar.

FILLING: Vanilla Buttercream

COOKIE: SPICE Sift ½ teaspoon each cinnamon and ginger and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg with the dry ingredients.

FILLING: Spiced Caramel Sauce or Cinnamon Buttercream

COOKIE: CARAMEL Follow the Vanilla Bean variation above or tint the batter with just a few drops of yellow food coloring.

FILLING: Caramel Sauce or Caramel Buttercream

COOKIE: MATCHA Sift 1½ tablespoons matcha powder with the confectioners’ sugar and almond flour.

FILLING: Vanilla Buttercream, flavored with 2 tablespoons matcha instead of vanilla

Tips for Macaron Success

Macarons have a reputation for being fussy, but if you take the right steps, you should have no problems:

  • Aging the egg whites at room temperature overnight evaporates some of their moisture, which will allow you to whip them to greater fluffiness.
  • Don’t skip sifting the almond flour; sifting will yield a cookie that is airy but not too fragile.
  • Let the batter rest after piping; this is necessary to keep the cookies from cracking while they bake.
  • Cool the cookies completely on the sheets; this gives them time to set. If you try to move them while they’re still warm, they’ll break.

Making Macarons

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STEP 1

Fold the almond mixture into the meringue after beating to stiff peaks.

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STEP 2

Pipe the batter in 1-inch rounds.

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STEP 3

Sandwich the baked cookies with jam, ganache, or buttercream.

Madeleines

Makes: 2 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes, plus time to chill

Like many French confections, madeleines have an air of mystery and elusiveness. That’s partly due to Marcel Proust and partly to their elegant shell shape, which requires a special pan (really, they’re just as good baked in small muffin tins). In any case, the toughest part of making them at home is waiting for the dough to chill (which you really must do). These have the characteristic “hump,” which is perfect for topping with Lemon Glaze.

  • 10 tablespoons butter, melted
  • 1 cup flour, plus more for dusting
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ⅛ teaspoon salt
  • ⅔ cup sugar
  • 3 large eggs, at room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1. Set aside 2 tablespoons of the melted butter and use it to brush the insides of the madeleine molds. Coat with flour and tap off the excess. Freeze the molds and let the remaining butter cool slightly.

2. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a bowl and combine it with the sugar. In another bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the eggs, vanilla, lemon zest, and lemon juice until smooth and frothy, about 5 minutes. Fold the dry ingredients into the egg mixture, then add the cooled melted butter, 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring until just incorporated after each addition. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.

3. To bake, heat the oven to 425°F. Drop 1 tablespoon of batter into the middle of each mold and do not spread it out. Bake until set in the middle, about 10 minutes. Cool for a minute in the pans before tipping them onto wire racks to finish cooling. These will keep in an airtight container for no more than a day or two.

MUFFIN TIN MADELEINES Skip the specialty pan: Grease and flour the cups of a muffin tin with the melted butter (don’t use paper cups, as they won’t give you that caramelized exterior). Fill the cups one-quarter full of batter.

CHOCOLATE MADELEINES Good on their own, and even better dipped into Rich Chocolate Sauce: Use only ¾ cup of flour in the batter and add ¼ cup cocoa powder. Omit the lemon.

PISTACHIO (OR ANY NUT) MADELEINES Finely chop ¼ cup pistachios and fold into the batter along with the flour. Keep the citrus or, if you prefer, switch it out for ½ teaspoon almond extract.

MADELEINES QUEBECOISES There’s just enough maple flavor here to keep the madeleines from tasting like brunch: Simmer 1 cup maple syrup over low heat until it is reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Stir into the melted butter and let cool. Decrease the sugar to ½ cup and omit the lemon. Note that the batter will be wetter than for a standard madeleine cookie.

Pizzelle

Makes: 2 to 3 dozen, depending on your iron’s size

Time: About 45 minutes

Pizzelle are baked in a special iron, which gives them their wafer-thinness and characteristic snowflake pattern. Those of us without pizzelle irons (everyone except Italian grandmothers) can use a panini press or double-sided griddle. If you’d like your pizzelle even crisper, thin the batter with a little milk; and if you’re in a humid environment, omit the baking powder.

  • 1 stick butter, melted, plus more
  • greasing
  • 1½ cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 3 eggs, at room temperature
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon anise extract, or to taste

1. Heat a pizzelle iron or panini press and grease it lightly with melted butter. Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt together in a small bowl.

2. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs, sugar, butter, and anise extract until frothy and fully incorporated. Add the dry ingredients and mix well.

3. Drop the batter by the tablespoon onto the press or iron. Close the press and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, until golden; the cookie will be soft when it first comes off the press, but it will crisp up as it cools. If yours do not, try using less batter to create a thinner cookie. Transfer immediately to a wire rack to cool, or you can mold it into an edible container. These will keep in an airtight container, separate from any other kind of cookie, for no more than a day or two. If the pizzelle start to soften, crisp them up in a 350°F oven for 2 minutes.

CHOCOLATE PIZZELLE Decrease the flour to 1½ cups and omit the anise. Add ¼ cup cocoa powder when you add the baking powder and salt.

STROOPWAFELS An easy version of the Dutch favorite, sandwiched with a syrupy brown caramel: Replace ¾ cup of the granulated sugar with brown. Replace the anise with 2 teaspoons vanilla extract and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. After the cookies are finished, make Caramel Sauce. Sandwich 2 cookies with 1 teaspoon caramel.

Brownies and Bar Cookies

Brownies and bars are a category unto themselves—completely adaptable and as simple as pouring batter into a pan, with chewy edges and tender centers. Just about any drop cookie dough can be pressed into a pan and baked as a bar cookie; to make sure it’s the right consistency, melt the butter and add an extra egg yolk. It doesn’t get much better than that, but you can also top the finished bars with anything you’d add to a cookie—Chocolate Ganache, Caramel Sauce, Fruit Jam, or Chocolate Buttercream, for starters.

Recipes

Brownies

Flourless Brownies

Blondies

Chocolate-Pretzel Bars

Pecan-Caramel Bars

Magic Bars

Hermit Bars

Lemon Squares

Date Bars

Fruitcake Bars

No-Bake Granola Bars

No-Bake Fruit and Cereal Bars

Caramel Popcorn Bars

Brownies

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: 30 to 40 minutes

To some, making a brownie without melted chocolate seems outlandish, but it’s the best way to get a fudgy center and chewy, crackly top. It’s also that much more likely that you’ll always have the ingredients on hand to make brownies whenever inspiration strikes. These are as gooey and chocolaty as any brownie lover could wish.

To make them occasion-worthy, serve brownies warm with Whipped Cream or ice cream, drizzle with Caramel Sauce, cool and frost with Chocolate Buttercream, or glaze with Chocolate Ganache.

  • 1½ sticks butter, plus more for greasing
  • 1¼ cups sugar
  • 1 cup cocoa powder
  • ½ cup flour
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 ounces dark chocolate, chopped (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 325°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan or line it with parchment paper.

2. Melt the butter, then whisk in the sugar until it dissolves. Let cool slightly. Meanwhile, combine the cocoa powder, flour, and salt. Beat the eggs and vanilla into the butter mixture, then stir in the cocoa mixture until thoroughly combined. Add the chocolate if you’re using it.

3. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for about 20 minutes, until just barely set in the middle. It’s better to underbake brownies than to overbake them. Cool on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for no more than a day.

NUTTY BROWNIES Fold ¾ cup toasted walnuts, pecans, almonds, or hazelnuts (see page 57) into the batter just before you pour it into the baking dish. If you don’t have time to toast the nuts, just add them raw.

CREAM CHEESE SWIRL BROWNIES Beat together ½ cup (4 ounces) softened cream cheese and ½ cup sugar until fluffy; beat in an egg. Pour half the brownie batter into the pan and drop the cream cheese mixture evenly over it; top with the remaining batter. Use a knife to swirl the cream cheese into the brownies for a marbled effect. Increase the baking time by 10 minutes or so.

CHOCOLATE-MINT BROWNIES Tastes like Christmas: Swap the vanilla for ½ teaspoon peppermint extract. If you like, stir ½ cup roughly chopped peppermints or candy canes into the batter.

PEANUT BUTTER BROWNIES Combine ¾ cup peanut butter with 3 tablespoons melted butter and 1½ tablespoons sugar. Pour half the batter into the dish and cover with half of the peanut butter mixture; repeat. Swirl the two together if you like.

MOCHA BROWNIES Coffee adds not only richness but also distinctive flavor: Add 2 tablespoons instant espresso powder with the flour and cocoa.

JAMMY BROWNIES Chocolate and raspberry are a classic pair, but use whichever jam you like best or try it with marmalade: Decrease the sugar to 1 cup. Dollop ½ cup fruit preserves over the batter in the pan and use a knife to swirl it around for a marbled effect.

WHITE CHOCOLATE-MACADAMIA BROWNIES Increase the flour to 1 cup and omit the cocoa. Decrease the butter to 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) and the sugar to ¾ cup. Fold 6 ounces chopped white chocolate and ¾ cup roughly chopped macadamia nuts into the finished batter.

ONE-BOWL BROWNIES Cutting down on dishes is just a matter of changing your pace: Use a microwave to melt the butter in a large bowl in 30-second intervals, stirring well after each addition. Let cool until the mixture is warm, not hot. Whisk in the sugar, then add the eggs, one at a time, along with the vanilla. Then add the cocoa, flour, and salt. Proceed with the recipe.

MUG BROWNIE Single serving and minimal fuss: Melt 1½ tablespoons butter in a microwave-safe mug or ramekin. Use a fork to mix it with 1½ tablespoons milk and a dash of vanilla extract. Beat in 3 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons cocoa powder, then stir in ¼ cup flour until just combined. Microwave for 45 seconds to 1 minute. This will be extremely hot and gooey and similar to molten chocolate cake.

CAKEY BROWNIES All the rich flavor of a brownie with a cake’s lightness: Decrease the butter to 6 tablespoons (¾ stick); rather than melt it, soften it at room temperature and cream it with the sugar. Beat in the eggs and vanilla along with ½ cup milk. Increase the flour to ¾ cup and sift it, along with the cocoa powder, salt, and ½ teaspoon baking powder, into the batter.

BROWNIE THINS This makes a thin, crispy-chewy cookie, just like the top of a brownie: Grease baking sheets. Decrease the butter to 6 tablespoons (¾ stick), the sugar to ½ cup, the flour to ¼ cup, and the cocoa to ½ cup; use only 1 egg. Cover and chill the batter for 15 minutes, until it firms slightly, then drop it onto the prepared sheets in teaspoon-size mounds about 2 inches apart. Use a rubber spatula or a piece of buttered parchment to flatten the dough into disks. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool for 2 minutes before transferring to a rack.

Removing Brownies from the Pan

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If you lined the pan with parchment, use the overhanging edges to lift the whole brownie out of the pan before cutting into squares.

10 Things to Stir into Brownies and Blondies

In its own way, a rich, fudgy brownie or blondie is like a canvas for showcasing add-ins. Stir up to 1 cup of any of these into finished batter before you pour it into the pan (use a little less for the cakier variations), or swirl the sauces, nut butters, or jams into the batter in the pan:

  • Chopped chocolate, 1 cup
  • Chopped nuts, up to 1 cup
  • Roasted Nut Butter or Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread, up to ¾ cup
  • Mashed bananas, ½ cup
  • Fruit Jam or Orange Marmalade, ½ cup
  • Chopped dried fruit, especially dried cherries, ½ cup
  • Bourbon or liqueur, up to ¼ cup
  • Instant espresso powder, 2 tablespoons
  • Almond or mint extract, ½ teaspoon
  • Caramel Sauce or Dulce de Leche, up to ¾ cup

Flourless Brownies

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 45 minutes

If you love chocolate, you’ve probably had flourless chocolate cake. Flourless brownies aren’t so ubiquitous, but they’re just as satisfying—fudgy and rich with a double dose of chocolate. Top with any of the frostings and sauces that go with Brownies.

  • 8 ounces dark chocolate, chopped
  • 2 sticks butter, plus more for greasing
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ¼ cup cocoa powder

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan or line it with parchment paper and grease the parchment.

2. Combine the chocolate and butter in a saucepan over low heat, stirring frequently until melted and smooth. Let cool.

3. In large bowl, beat the eggs and sugar together until thick. Add the vanilla and gradually add the chocolate mixture; mix until fully incorporated. Fold in the cocoa powder.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, using a spatula to spread it into an even layer if necessary. Bake for about 35 minutes, until the center is barely set. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for no more than a day or two.

NUTTY FLOURLESS BROWNIES Here nuts are both a flour substitute and a crunchy add-in: Use 3 eggs rather than 4 and substitute 1 cup almond flour for the cocoa powder. Fold 1 cup chopped nuts (toasted, or raw) into the batter before pouring it into the pan.

Fudgy, Chewy, or Cakey?

People have strong, sometimes polarizing opinions about what makes a perfect brownie. Luckily, it’s a breeze to vary the ingredients’ proportions so you get the exact consistency you’re after.

Fudgy brownies are super-moist and dense, almost trufflelike: Use the optional chocolate in the recipe on page 180 and melt it with the butter. Add an egg yolk along with the whole eggs. Be sure to underbake these by a couple minutes.

Chewy brownies have slightly gooey centers with crackly, candylike crusts: Substitute brown sugar for half the sugar. Beat the batter vigorously.

Cakey brownies have light, airy centers: Halve the butter and cream it with the sugar instead of melting it. Beat ½ cup milk with the eggs; for extra airiness, add an egg white. Up the flour by ¼ cup and sift it with ½ teaspoon baking powder and the cocoa powder.

Blondies

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: 30 to 40 minutes

This bar has less in common with the brownie and more with a chocolate chip cookie, if that cookie didn’t have chips in it and was baked in a pan. Blondies have a rich butterscotch flavor and a wonderfully chewy texture. What they do have in common with brownies is that you can add just about anything to them—see page 181 for inspiration—and making them is about as simple as spreading batter in a pan.

  • 1 stick unsalted butter, melted and cooled,
  • plus more for greasing
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup flour

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan or line it with parchment paper and grease the parchment.

2. a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until very smooth, then mix in the egg and vanilla, scraping down the sides of the bowl every now and then to fully incorporate.

3. Add the salt, then gently fold in the flour. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until barely set in the middle. A slightly underbaked blondie is better than one that’s totally firm—they’ll keep cooking as they cool. Cool in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for a few days.

CHOCOLATE-COCONUT BLONDIES Chockful of goodness: After folding in the flour, add 1 cup roughly chopped dark chocolate and 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut.

LEMON BLONDIES The chewiness of a blondie with the tanginess of a lemon bar. Add Lemon Glaze to underscore the flavor or fold up to 1 cup fresh berries into the batter before baking: Add 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest along with the egg and vanilla.

STRAWBERRY-LEMON BLONDIES Follow the preceding variation; bring ¼ cup strawberry jam to room temperature and drop it, one spoonful at a time, over the batter in the pan. Swirl it with a knife to create a marbled effect; bake as directed. Serve with fresh strawberries on the side.

ORANGE-ALMOND BLONDIES Stir in 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice and 1 tablespoon grated orange zest when you add the egg; replace the vanilla with ½ teaspoon almond extract. Top with Orange Glaze or Cream Cheese Frosting.

Chocolate-Pretzel Bars

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 45 minutes

The perfect salty-sweet bar. Don’t stop with pretzels; everything from potato chips to candied ginger has a place here.

  • 2 sticks butter, softened, plus more for greasing
  • 2 cups chopped dark chocolate (about 8 ounces)
  • 2 cups flour
  • ¾ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¾ cup granulated sugar
  • ¾ cup packed brown sugar
  • eggs
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1½ cups pretzels, coarsely chopped

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 13 × 9-inch baking pan or line it with parchment paper and grease the parchment.

2. Melt 1 cup of the chopped chocolate. While it cools, mix the flour, baking soda, and salt in a bowl. Set aside.

3. Cream together the butter and sugars; add the eggs one at a time and beat after each addition until well blended. Mix in the melted chocolate and the vanilla, then add the flour mixture and beat until just combined. Fold in the pretzels and remaining 1 cup chopped chocolate.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, using a spatula to spread it into an even layer if necessary. Bake for about 35 minutes, until barely set in the middle. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for no more than 3 days.

POTATO CHIP BARS Even more of a salty-sweet treat; ridged chips have the best crunch: Coarsely chop 1½ cups of potato chips and substitute those for the pretzels.

CHOCOLATE-ORANGE BARS WITH GINGER Think of these as very grown-up brownies, and if you like, replace the vanilla with 1 tablespoon Grand Marnier: Increase the salt to 1 teaspoon. Instead of pretzels, chop ½ cup each candied orange peel and candied ginger.

S’MORES BARS No campfire needed: Chop 5 graham crackers and fold them into the batter in place of the pretzels. Bake as directed. After about 25 minutes, when the sides are set but the center still jiggles, cover the bars with 3 cups mini marshmallows. Continue baking until the marshmallows are golden and a tester comes out with just a few crumbs.

Pecan-Caramel Bars

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 45 minutes

Chewy, crunchy, and crumbly, this is satisfying anytime, and because the crust is shortbread, it also travels and keeps well. Don’t let the two-step process deter you; the caramel comes together while the crust bakes, and you can make the crust up to a month ahead of time if you wrap it tightly and freeze it. Or see the variations for a shortcut with graham crackers.

  • 2 sticks unsalted butter, softened, plus
  • more for greasing
  • ¼ cup granulated sugar
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 cup packed light brown sugar
  • ¼ cup honey
  • ¼ cup cream
  • ½ pound (about 1 cup) pecans,
  • roughly chopped

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan with parchment paper and grease it.

2. Cream 1 stick of the butter with the granulated sugar until light and fluffy. Stir in the flour. This mixture will be quite dry; press it into the greased pan and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool slightly, leaving the oven on.

3. Cook the brown sugar, honey, and remaining stick of butter in a saucepan over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture boils. Boil for a few minutes more, watching it carefully, until it thickens slightly and turns rich amber in color. Remove from the heat and carefully stir in the cream. (The cream may bubble up at first.) Fold in the pecans and immediately pour over the crust.

4. Bake for about 10 minutes, until the caramel is bubbling. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

SPICY PEANUT-CARAMEL BARS Peanuts go particularly well with a bit of heat: Substitute unsalted roasted peanuts for the pecans. Stir ½ teaspoon cayenne into the caramel after you add the cream.

CHOCOLATE CASHEW-CARAMEL BARS Substitute unsalted roasted cashews for the pecans. Let the finished bars cool, then spread a layer of Chocolate Ganache over the top.

SALTED PECAN-CARAMEL BARS Salt magnifies the sweet and nutty flavors: Cook the caramel a bit longer, for a total of 3 to 4 minutes after it starts to boil, until it’s a little darker in color. Add 1 teaspoon coarse salt when you add the cream. If you like, sprinkle a few flakes of coarse salt over the bars after they cool.

PRALINE CRACKERS Arrange graham crackers or saltines in the bottom of a 13 × 9-inch baking pan, breaking them into pieces if necessary so that they completely cover the bottom. Pour the caramel mixture directly over this and bake until bubbling, 7 or 8 minutes.

Magic Bars

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

This recipe gets its name because you can toss anything into it and it will always end up delicious, making it especially fun to make with kids. It’s usually made with sweetened coconut, but I find that cloying and use unsweetened. Anything goes here: Toast the coconut beforehand or don’t; use whichever nuts you’d like; swap some of the condensed milk for maple syrup or Boozy Caramel Sauce. Double the chocolate, use multiple kinds of chocolate, or combine it with peanut butter chips.

  • Butter for greasing
  • 1 recipe Cookie Crumb Crust made with graham crackers
  • 1¼ cups shredded unsweetened coconut
  • 4 ounces chocolate, coarsely chopped
  • 1 cup chopped nuts
  • 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
  • Pinch of salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Line a 13 × 9-inch baking pan with parchment paper and grease the parchment. Fill with graham cracker crust.

2. Sprinkle the coconut over the crust, then do the same with the chocolate and nuts. Drizzle the condensed milk evenly over the filling. Sprinkle salt over the pan before baking.

3. Bake until the top is golden, about 25 minutes. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for 5 days.

MAPLE MAGIC BARS Maple adds a subtle warm flavor: In a bowl, combine ½ cup sweetened condensed milk with 1 cup real maple syrup. Pour this mixture over the filling.

DRIED FRUIT MAGIC BARS Dried fruit makes this even chewier and a bit tart: Decrease the coconut to 1 cup and top it with 1 cup dried fruit of your choice (chopped into small pieces if necessary) before adding the chocolate and nuts.

WHISKEY CARAMEL MAGIC BARS For grown-ups: Make a batch of Caramel Sauce and stir in 2 tablespoons whiskey after you remove it from the heat. Use this instead of condensed milk.

Hermit Bars

Makes: About 2 dozen

Time: About 30 minutes

Molasses, brown sugar, and raisins keep this classic New England dessert chewy and moist but not overwhelmingly sweet. Tangy flavors play off it well, so top it off with Lemon Glaze or Cream Cheese Frosting if you like things fancy.

  • 2 cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon nutmeg
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • 1 stick butter, softened, plus more for greasing
  • 1 egg
  • ½ cup molasses
  • 1 cup raisins

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 13 × 9-inch baking pan.

2. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices in a bowl. Cream together the brown sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add the egg and molasses and beat until just combined. Gradually mix in the flour mixture; once it is incorporated, fold in the raisins.

3. Spread the dough evenly in the prepared baking pan and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until barely set. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for a week.

PUMPKIN BARS Pumpkin underscores warm fall flavors: Reduce the molasses to ⅓ cup. When you beat in the molasses and the egg, add ¾ cup canned pumpkin. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the bars comes out clean.

14 Light(ish) Cookies and Bars

It may sound like an oxymoron. In fact, the cookies and bars below—plus any of their variations—taste excellent without being overly sweet or rich.

  • Flourless Peanut Butter Cookies
  • Banana Oatmeal Cookies
  • Pumpkin Cookies
  • Flourless Chocolate Almond Cookies
  • Olive Oil Cookies
  • Whole Wheat Digestive Biscuits
  • Almond Biscotti
  • Vanilla Meringues
  • Florentines
  • Pizzelle
  • Hermit Bars
  • Fruitcake Bars
  • No-Bake Granola Bars
  • No-Bake Fruit and Cereal Bars

Lemon Squares

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 1 hour

This lemon bar is sweet-tart, with a gooey middle and sandy crust. Be sure not to overbake these; they’re done when the edges are firming up and the middle is still a bit soft. Rotate the pan if they appear to be baking unevenly.

  • 1 stick unsalted butter, softened, plus more for greasing
  • ¾ cups granulated sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • cup plus 3 tablespoons flour
  • 3 eggs
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest
  • Powdered sugar for dusting

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan.

2. Cream the butter with ¼ cup of the granulated sugar and the salt until light and fluffy. Stir in 1 cup of the flour. This mixture will be quite dry; press it into the greased pan and bake for about 20 minutes, until it’s just turning golden. Remove from the oven and cool slightly.

3. Beat the eggs, lemon juice, and remaining 1½ cups granulated sugar together until lightened and thick; add the remaining 3 tablespoons flour, the baking soda, and the lemon zest. Pour over the crust and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until firm on the edges but still a little soft in the middle. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack, then dust with confectioners’ sugar. Cut into squares. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 days.

LEMON OAT BARS Change the crust: Use brown sugar instead of granulated; decrease the flour to ½ cup and add ½ cup rolled oats along with the salt and baking soda. Mix until combined. The filling stays the same.

COCONUT LIME BARS Increase the sugar in the filling to 1¾ cups and substitute lime juice and zest for the lemon. Sprinkle ¾ cup shredded unsweetened coconut over the filling just before baking and omit the powdered sugar.

MANGO BARS Follow the Coconut Lime Bars variation above, but use only 2 teaspoons lime juice and add ¼ cup mango purée (to make your own, see page 572). Keep the shredded coconut if you like.

LEMON ROSEMARY BARS Fresh herbs add a more sophisticated, balanced flavor; basil and culinary-grade lavender buds are good too (use the same amounts): Mix 1 teaspoon finely chopped rosemary leaves into the filling before baking.

BUTTERMILK BARS This has a creamy, mild tang and even simpler prep: Omit the lemon juice and zest and use ¼ cup buttermilk instead.

JAM BARS Make the crust as directed. For the filling, reduce the sugar to ¾ cup and omit the flour and baking soda. Substitute ¼ cup of your favorite jam for the lemon juice and zest, beating it together with the eggs and sugar.

Date Bars

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 1 hour

This is an old-fashioned dessert, lightly sweet and super-simple, with a crumbly oat crust sandwiched with a soft fruit center. Dates melt into a chewy, caramel-like filling, but just about any fruit compote is at home here—see the variations for some ideas.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened, plus more for greasing
  • 2 cups dates, pitted and chopped
  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup packed brown sugar
  • 1½ cups flour
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup rolled oats

1. Heat oven to 350°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan or line it with parchment paper and grease the parchment.

2. In a saucepan, heat 1 cup water until it simmers. Add the dates and granulated sugar and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla.

3. Cream together the brown sugar and butter until light and fluffy. In a small bowl, whisk the flour, cinnamon, baking soda, and salt together. Stir it into the butter mixture along with the oats (you can also use your hands to combine it gently).

4. Press half of the flour mixture into the bottom of the prepared pan, then cover with the filling. Sprinkle the remaining crust in an even layer over the top and press it gently into the filling. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the crust is lightly browned all over. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for no more than 3 days.

PEAR-GINGER BARS For the filling, peel, core, and chop 3 medium pears. Increase the granulated sugar to ¼ cup and melt it in a saucepan with the vanilla and 1 tablespoon butter. When the mixture is golden brown, add the pears and stir for a minute or 2, until they are soft. Remove from the heat and stir in 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger or 1 teaspoon ground ginger.

APPLE-CINNAMON BARS Follow the preceding variation, replacing the pears with a sweet variety of apples, adding 1 teaspoon cinnamon at the end and ½ teaspoon ground cloves.

RHUBARB-GINGER BARS Chop 1 pound fresh rhubarb stalks and combine in a saucepan with 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger, ¾ cup sugar, and ½ cup water. Stir until the sugar dissolves; cover and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Omit the vanilla.

MANGO BARS Peel, pit, and chop 2 large ripe mangoes. Heat ⅓ cup water as in Step 1, then add the mango and sugar, mashing with your spoon if necessary to break it down further. Cook until thick; juicier mangoes may take a bit longer to reduce. Substitute 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice for the vanilla.

BANANA-NUT BARS A new way to use your overripe bananas: Toast 1 cup walnuts, let cool, and finely chop. In a bowl, mash 2 very ripe bananas with the vanilla; omit the granulated sugar. Spread the banana filling over the bottom crust, then sprinkle the walnuts evenly over them before adding the top crust.

LINZER BARS An old-school European pastry turned into a simpler bar cookie; this is traditionally made with hazelnuts, but you can also use almonds or walnuts: Line the pan with greased parchment paper. Substitute 1 cup nut flour for the oats and proceed with the recipe, using granulated sugar instead of brown and using 1 cup of your favorite jam as filling. If you like, garnish with confectioners’ sugar.

Fruitcake Bars

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 1 hour

Fruitcake has a bad reputation, and if you’ve had it with neon candied fruit, you know why. But this version is much different, a chewy and lightly sweet bar of dried fruit and nuts that’s barely held together with a brown sugar batter. Walnuts, cherries, and dates are most common here, but use whichever nuts and combination of dried fruit you like, as long as you get them to a roughly uniform size before you add the pieces.

  • Butter or oil for greasing
  • 6 tablespoons flour
  • ¼ teaspoon baking soda
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ cup packed brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2½ cups dried fruit, coarsely chopped as needed
  • 2 cups nuts, toasted and chopped

1. Heat the oven to 325°F. Grease an 8- or 9-inch square baking pan.

2. Combine the flour, baking soda, and salt In a large bowl. Stir in the brown sugar, egg, and vanilla until fully incorporated. Add the dried fruit and nuts, using your hands to mix so that every piece is lightly coated in batter.

3. Spread the mixture in the prepared baking pan and bake for about 35 minutes, until just set. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container for a week.

TROPICAL FRUIT BARS Use ⅔ cup each dried mango, dried pineapple, dried peach, and shredded unsweetened coconut. Mash ½ banana and substitute that for the egg to make this vegan (and extra-tropical).

GINGERY FRUITCAKE BARS Decrease the dried fruit to 2 cups and add ½ cup chopped candied ginger to the mixture.

RUM-SOAKED FRUITCAKE BARS A more traditional version: In a saucepan, combine the dried fruit with ⅔ cup spiced rum and simmer until the fruit has absorbed most of the liquid. Cool completely before adding to the batter.

What to Do with Botched or Stale Cookies and Bars

Nothing’s more frustrating than taking a batch of cookies out of the oven, only to find that something’s gone wrong: Maybe the bottoms are burned, or the cookies spread so much while baking that they turned into one giant mass. Or maybe they just got stale too quickly. No need to throw them out—here are some ways to give cookies new life.

Use a box grater Grate burned cookie bottoms on the small side of a box grater to shave off the overdone bits. The cookies won’t be pretty anymore, but you’ll be able to salvage the good parts.

Make a cookie crust Grind up cookies in a food processor and add some melted butter to make a Cookie Crumb Crust.

Add to your ice cream Crush the cookies into small pieces or grind them into a powder, shaving off any burned bottoms first; sprinkle them over ice cream or sundaes, mix them into ice cream custard before you churn it, or add them to a milkshake.

Make a parfait or trifle Layer crushed cookies with Whipped Cream, Vanilla Pastry Cream, Caramel Sauce, Fruit Compote, Lemon Curd, Zabaglione, or a bit of your favorite booze and let soak for a half hour or so before serving.

Make “bread” pudding Soak the cookies in some custard, adding cubed stale bread if you like, and bake as you would Bread Pudding.

No-Bake Granola Bars

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 15 minutes

There’s been plenty of disputing granola’s status as a health food, and for good reason, since much of what you buy is loaded with sweeteners. When you make your own (see page 138), you can adjust the sweetness, and then you can put it into these snack bars. You can also make this with raw oats—the result will be chewier and that much simpler.

  • ¼ cup neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing
  • 3 cups Granola or rolled oats
  • ¾ cup honey
  • ¼ cup packed brown sugar
  • Pinch of salt

1. Lightly grease an 8- or 9-inch square pan with oil. If you are using oats, you can toast them if you like; spread in a rimmed baking sheet and toast in a 350°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden.

2. Put the granola or toasted oats in a large heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring the honey, brown sugar, oil, and salt to a boil. Pour this mixture over the granola and mix until everything is well coated, working quickly while the liquid is still warm.

3. Press into the prepared pan and let chill completely in the fridge. Cut into squares or rectangles. These will keep in an airtight container for up to 4 days.

PEANUT BUTTER GRANOLA BARS Your own power bar: Substitute ½ cup peanut butter for the brown sugar and oil; heat only the honey and whisk in the nut butter immediately after you remove it from the heat.

COCONUT GRANOLA BARS Toast the coconut beforehand for a warmer, sweeter flavor: Combine the granola with ¾ cup shredded unsweetened coconut, then toss to coat in the honey mixture.

MAPLE-CINNAMON GRANOLA BARS Stir 1½ teaspoons cinnamon into the granola. Replace the honey with maple syrup. Add up to 1¼ cup chopped pecans if you like.

BAKED OAT BARS Like a cross between a granola bar and a cookie: Heat the oven to 375°F and grease a rimmed cookie sheet. Melt 1½ sticks of butter and let cool before mixing with the granola, honey, sugar, and 2 egg whites; omit the oil. Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes.

No-Bake Fruit and Cereal Bars

Makes: About 1 dozen

Time: About 15 minutes

This snack bar is so simple to make that you can probably put it together in the time it takes to buy a junkier version at the store. Between the fruit and cereal, there’s a lot of room for variation. Keep it relatively light with puffed rice or shredded wheat; bulk it up with granola or whole grain flakes. Dried dates, figs, and apricots are particularly nice.

  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing
  • 1½ cups dried fruit
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • Fruit juice or water as needed
  • 3 cups ready-to-eat cereal or Granola

1. Lightly grease an 8- or 9-inch square pan. Combine the dried fruit, oil, and honey in a food processor and pulse until sticky; if necessary, add water or juice 1 tablespoon at a time to break up the fruit. In a large bowl, fold the fruit mixture into the cereal until the cereal is well coated.

2. Press into the prepared pan and refrigerate until set. Cut into squares or rectangles. These will keep in an airtight container up to 4 days.

Caramel Popcorn Bars

Makes: 1 to 2 dozen

Time: About 20 minutes

As sweet, crunchy, and addictive as caramel corn. Adding marshmallows to the caramel holds it together, making it even easier to eat.

  • Butter for greasing
  • 3 tablespoons neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn)
  • ½ cup popcorn kernels
  • 2 cups sugar
  • ⅔ cup cream
  • 1¾ cups miniature marshmallows

1. Grease a 13 × 9-inch baking pan with butter or line with parchment paper and grease the parchment.

2. Heat the oil in a pot or large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add a few kernels to test the oil; when all of them have popped, add the rest of the kernels and shake them around so they all get coated in oil. Cover the pot, leaving the lid slightly ajar, and wait about 5 minutes, until there are a few seconds between pops. Remove from heat and transfer 10 cups of popped corn to a large heatproof bowl.

3. Place the sugar in a medium saucepan with ½ cup water; stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. When it is a deep tan color, after about 8 minutes, remove from the heat and carefully add the cream (it may bubble up at first). Whisk in the marshmallows until the mixture is smooth. Pour this over the popcorn and fold, gently but quickly so the caramel doesn’t set, until everything is coated.

4. Spread the mixture into the prepared pan, pressing it down if necessary with a spatula or wooden spoon (it will be extremely hot). Cool completely in the pan before cutting. These will keep in an airtight container, with wax paper between the layers, for no more than a day or two.

SALTED CARAMEL POPCORN BARS Nutty and complex: Cook the caramel 1 to 2 minutes longer, stirring frequently, until it’s a dark copper color. Add ½ teaspoon coarse salt as soon as you remove it from the heat.

CRACKERJACK BARS Salty and sweet: Toss 2 cups roasted, salted peanuts with the popcorn before making the caramel.

CHOCOLATE-DRIZZLED CARAMEL POPCORN BARS Let the bars cool completely before drizzling them with Chocolate Ganache, then let set at room temperature.

BUTTERSCOTCH POPCORN BARS Butterscotch is made with brown sugar, which gives this a sweeter, warmer flavor: Instead of using caramel, make a batch of Butterscotch Sauce and whisk in the marshmallows when it’s still hot. Proceed with the recipe.

RICE CEREAL BARS Use 8 cups puffed rice cereal in place of the popcorn. Instead of making the caramel, melt 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter in the saucepan, then add 6 cups marshmallows and stir frequently until melted. Remove from the heat and fold in the cereal, working quickly before the marshmallow mixture cools.