The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs: An Essential Guide to the Flavors of the World - Padma Lakshmi (2016)

SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z

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OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: rosemary, rosebuds, rose petals, radhuni, and ras el hanout

RADHUNI

BOTANICAL NAMES: Trachyspermum roxbrughianum, Carum roxburghianum

OTHER NAMES: wild celery, ajmud, ajmod

FORMS: whole seeds

A member of the same family as celery and parsley, radhuni is thought to be native to India and Southeast Asia, where it is widely grown today. It has been important in Ayurvedic medicine since ancient times.

The tiny greenish-gray seeds are featherlight, oval, and flattish, with a ridge running down one side. The aroma recalls parsley, and the taste is similar to that of celery. Radhuni is also related to ajowan, but the taste is milder. Radhuni seeds resemble celery seeds and are often confused with them—but as the two seeds have a similar flavor, they can, in fact, be used interchangeably in many recipes. The flavor intensifies when the seeds are crushed, which can be done easily with a mortar and pestle, or even between your fingertips.

Radhuni seeds are popular in Bengali cuisine but little used in other Indian regions; radhuni is the Bengali name. They are often fried in oil until they crackle and become aromatic and then drizzled over dals or other dishes as a finishing touch. Radhuni seeds are also used in marinades and pickles, and in certain versions of the favorite Bengali spice blend panch phoron.

MEDICINAL USES: In India, radhuni seeds are believed to help respiratory health and relieve liver ailments.

RAS EL HANOUT

Ras el hanout is a Moroccan spice blend that is used across North Africa. Ras means “king,” and the name is translated as “head of the shop.” Vendors at the spice bazaars are often judged by the quality of their ras el hanout. The blends usually contain at least twenty ingredients, although the number can go as high as fifty, and the exact components and ratios are often highly guarded secrets. Ras el hanout mixes are very aromatic, with a floral fragrance, and the flavor is robust but nuanced. Traditionally, they were sold as whole-spice mixes at spice markets, where they could be ground to order, but ground blends are common today. A typical mix may contain coriander, green cardamom, black pepper, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, turmeric, cumin, anise, and fennel seeds, as well as dried rosebuds or petals and lavender blossoms. More complicated mixes include spices such as cloves, nigella, cubeb or long pepper, paprika, and/or saffron. Traditional Moroccan versions of ras el hanout always contain ingredients thought to be aphrodisiacs, typically Spanish fly, and sometimes hashish, though you won’t find these in any blends sold in the United States! The fragrance is warm, very aromatic, and complex.

Ras el hanout is used to season everything from couscous and rice dishes to tagines, soups, and stews. It can be used as a dry rub for grilled lamb, beef, chicken, or fish or added to the meat for kebabs. It also flavors the Moroccan sweet called majoun, which is made with nuts, dried fruit, honey, and hashish.

RIGANI

See Oregano.

ROSEBUDS

BOTANICAL NAME: Rosa spp.

The dried rosebuds sold for culinary uses come from many different varieties of the plant. Although they are most often steeped in boiling water to make a soothing herbal tea, they are also an ingredient in several important Middle Eastern spice blends, most notably ras el hanout, as well as advieh, a Persian mix, and some North African versions of baharat. Look for dried rosebuds with good color and fragrance.

ROSEMARY

BOTANICAL NAME: Rosmarinus officinalis

FORMS: fresh and whole or ground dried leaves

Rosemary is a perennial shrub in the mint family that is native to the Mediterranean. Its Latin name, from the words ros and marinus, translates as “dew of the sea,” and it thrives in coastal Mediterranean regions. It is an ancient herb, known for its medicinal as well as culinary uses since early times. Many myths and legends, some religious, have been associated with rosemary, and in Hamlet, Ophelia utters the words, “There’s rosemary, that’s for remembrance,” a sentiment that has been widely repeated.

There are a number of varieties of rosemary, but Rosmarinus officinalis, an upright shrub that can reach 5 feet, is probably the most common; a low-growing plant known as Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’ is also widely grown. The aroma and flavor are pungent, with piney, minty notes and an undertone of camphor or eucalyptus. The dried leaves, or needles, retain their pungency well, with the same warm, woody characteristics; crush or chop them before using. Preground rosemary is also available, but whole dried leaves are more aromatic and flavorful. Rosemary is a classic flavoring for lamb, often in combination with garlic, and it is good with most grilled or roasted meats, and in marinades for the same. It complements game such as venison, and it flavors pâtés and charcuterie. Rosemary pairs well with other herbs, particularly Mediterranean herbs such as oregano, sage, savory, and thyme, and it is part of the French blend herbes de Provence. It is an essential ingredient in classic cassoulet. Breads and crackers can be flavored with rosemary, and it has a place in the sweet kitchen as well, in desserts such as crème brûlée and in shortbread. It is also added to preserves such as apple or citrus jellies.