How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman (2016)

Quick Breads, Muffins, and Biscuits

Quick breads and their relatives, biscuits and scones, are leavened with baking powder, baking soda, or in some cases just eggs. No yeast means no waiting for a rise, so they are true to their name and offer near-instant gratification. They also offer reliability. While yeast breads can be temperamental, quick breads are practically foolproof and so are among the ideal baked goods for beginners. And because they are so forgiving, they’re easy to customize, as you’ll see.

Quick breads like banana bread are more similar to cakes, with a loose, tender, sweet crumb, whereas biscuits and scones are closer in nature to yeast breads, with doughy or flaky and buttery interiors. All of them are beloved at breakfasts, brunches, and snacktimes, and many go well with just about any meal.

Quick Breads and Muffins

Making quick bread is easy and satisfying: You mix the dry ingredients and wet ingredients separately, quickly combine the two, and bake. You don’t need special techniques or equipment; even a loaf pan is optional, since you can bake quick breads in a square brownie pan or even an ovenproof skillet.

The loose batter is usually rich, full of butter, eggs, sugar, and milk. It’s generally leavened with either baking powder or soda or a combination of the two. This combination makes quick breads and muffins more like cakes than yeasted breads: The crumb is soft, moist, and airy, with a little chew but no crunch. Fat makes them tender and flavorful. The difference between, for example, a carrot muffin and carrot cake is slight. (These aren’t ironclad rules, of course.)

The star ingredients in most of these are frequently pantry staples or a last-call fruit or vegetable—ginger for gingerbread; bananas gone black; zucchini and carrots that need using up; overripe berries. The rest of the no-frills ingredients lists are another of quick breads’ appeals. You can make one anytime at a moment’s notice because you probably already have everything you need.

While yeast breads benefit from high-gluten (bread) flour and rough handling (kneading), the resulting gluten development makes the dough chewy and the crust thick. In quick breads and their kin, what you want is tenderness: Handle them gently, and that’s what you’ll get. Combine the wet and dry ingredients quickly and stir only as much as needed to incorporate the flour; a few lumps are fine. Overmixing will make quick breads tough. Similarly, bread flour is to be avoided; all-purpose is the way to go.

Quick breads are best the day they are made but will keep for a few days. Once cool, wrap them tightly. They freeze well for a couple of months. Quick breads that are drying out respond well to being toasted and buttered or transformed into French Toast.

Adapting Recipes

Quick Breads: Loaves vs. Muffins

The only real differences between quick breads (baked in a loaf pan) and muffins are shape, size, and baking time. The recipes themselves are identical, which means you can confidently pour any quick bread batter into muffin tins instead, and vice versa. Since loaf pans are deeper and larger than muffin cups, quick breads require approximately double the baking time. Most quick breads take 45 minutes to an hour to bake, while standard-size muffins need only 20 to 30 minutes. Check for doneness early and often to avoid overbaking.

Recipes

Banana Bread

Fresh Fruit and Nut Bread

Lemon-Poppy Bread

Zucchini Bread

Gingerbread

Pain d’Épices

Coffee Cake

Southern Corn Bread

Rich, Sweet Corn Bread

Leftovers Bread

Liberian Rice Bread

Streusel Topping

Blueberry Muffins

Sweet and Rich Muffins

Double-Chocolate Muffins

Bran Muffins

Applesauce Muffins

Oatmeal Muffins

Sticky Pecan Muffins

Banana Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1 hour

Who doesn’t love banana bread? This one is just sweet enough, with fabulous crunch if you add walnuts and coconut, as I always do. There’s no better solution for over-the-hill bananas, and the batter comes together in less than 10 minutes. I’ve been making this recipe—created by my late dear friend Sherry—for almost fifty years; it’s incredibly reliable.

• 1 stick butter, melted, plus softened butter for greasing
• 2 cups flour
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• 1 cup sugar
• 3 very ripe bananas, mashed with a fork until smooth
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• ½ cup chopped walnuts (optional)
• ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut (optional)

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with softened butter.

2. Whisk together the flour, salt, baking powder, and sugar in a large bowl.

3. Mix together the melted butter and mashed bananas in a separate bowl. Beat in the eggs and vanilla until well combined. Stir this mixture into the dry ingredients just enough to combine everything. Gently fold in the nuts and coconut if you’re using them.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center of the bread comes out almost entirely clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for a couple days.

HONEY WHOLE GRAIN BANANA BREAD For a delicately sweet, nuttier bread: Substitute 1¼ cups whole wheat flour and ¾ cup oat bran for the all-purpose flour. Reduce the sugar to ¾ cup and whisk in 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Add ¼ cup honey to the melted butter.

CHOCOLATE BANANA BREAD Reduce the flour to 1½ cups. Add ½ cup Dutch-process cocoa powder to the flour. Fold up to 1 cup chopped dark chocolate into the batter.

TROPICAL BANANA BREAD Brown sugar and a few choice add-ins transform basic banana bread into a tropical treat: Replace half the sugar with ½ cup packed dark brown sugar. Fold ⅓ cup chopped dried pineapple, ⅓ cup shredded unsweetened coconut, and ⅓ cup chopped macadamia nuts into the batter.

ORANGE BANANA BREAD Whisk 2 tablespoons grated orange zest into the dry ingredients. Mix ¼ cup fresh orange juice into the melted butter and bananas.

PUMPKIN BREAD Substitute 1 cup pumpkin purée for the bananas. Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves into the dry ingredients.

PEANUT BUTTER BANANA BREAD Add ⅓ cup peanut butter to the bananas. Cut the butter down to 5 tablespoons.

APRICOT CREAM CHEESE BREAD The soft tang of cream cheese is a wonderful flavor and texture enhancer for quick breads: Replace the bananas with ½ cup apricot purée (soak ½ cup dried apricots in boiling water for 10 minutes and drain, reserving 2 tablespoons soaking water, and then purée). Reduce the butter to 3 tablespoons. In a separate bowl, beat ¼ cup (2 ounces) cream cheese with the eggs, vanilla, and sugar until well combined. Stir the apricot purée and butter mixture into the cream cheese mixture, then add the dry ingredients.

7 Ways to Top Any Quick Bread, Muffin, or Scone

• Coconut Glaze
• Cinnamon Glaze
• Orange Glaze
• Whipped Butter
• Cream Cheese Frosting
• Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread
• A drizzle of honey

9 Additions to Any Quick Bread, Muffin, or Scone

• Toasted chopped nuts, up to 1 cup
• Chocolate chips, up to 1 cup
• Ground spices, like cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, and ginger, up to 2 teaspoons
• Bourbon, up to 1 tablespoon
• Pumpkin or sunflower seeds, up to ¾ cup
• Citrus zest, up to 2 tablespoons
• Chopped dried fruit, up to 1 cup
• Shredded carrots, up to 1 cup
• Yogurt or sour cream, ¼ cup

Fresh Fruit and Nut Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1¼ hours

You can make Fruit and Nut Bread again and again without ever having the same loaf twice. If you are using fresh fruit other than berries, remove any pits or cores and chop the fruit into small pieces. Toast the nuts (see page 57) before adding to intensify the flavor. If you use fruit juice instead of milk, reduce the sugar to ¾ cup.

• 4 tablespoons (½ stick) cold butter, plus softened butter for greasing
• 2 cups flour, plus more for dusting
• 1 cup sugar
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ¾ cup fruit juice (like orange or apple) or milk
• 1 tablespoon grated orange or lemon zest
• 1 egg
• 1 cup chopped fresh cranberries, apples, cherries, or any other fruit
• ½ cup chopped walnuts, pecans, almonds, or any other nut

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with softened butter and dust with flour.

2. Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Cut the cold butter into bits, then use a fork or 2 knives to cut it into the dry ingredients until there are no pieces bigger than a small pea.

3. Beat together the juice, zest, and egg in a separate bowl. Pour into the dry ingredients, mixing just enough to moisten. Do not overmix; it’s okay if the batter is not perfectly smooth. Fold in the fruit and nuts.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out almost entirely clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for up to a couple days.

VEGAN FRESH FRUIT AND NUT BREAD Grease the pan thoroughly with a neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn). Replace the egg with 1 tablespoon ground flaxseed mixed with 3 tablespoons water; let sit for at least 3 minutes until it has a gel-like consistency. Omit the butter and add 4 tablespoons melted coconut oil to the wet ingredients. Replace the milk with unsweetened soy or almond milk or use fruit juice.

CHERRY-ALMOND BREAD Add ½ teaspoon almond extract to the wet ingredients. Fold 1 cup pitted and chopped fresh cherries and ½ cup chopped almonds into the batter.

DATE-NUT BREAD The combination of brown sugar, coffee, and dried fruit gives this bread richness and intensity—the perfect morning pick-me-up: Substitute brown sugar for granulated sugar. Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon to the dry ingredients. Pour ¾ cup hot coffee over 1 cup dates and let sit for at least 10 minutes. Drain, reserving the coffee. Add it to the wet ingredients along with 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Omit the juice or milk. Chop the dates and fold them into the batter along with ½ cup chopped pecans or walnuts.

APPLE-PECAN BREAD Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon to the dry ingredients. Fold 1 cup chopped Granny Smith apples and ½ cup chopped pecans into the batter.

ORANGE-CARDAMOM BREAD Add 2 teaspoons cardamom and ½ teaspoon cinnamon to the dry ingredients. Substitute ¼ cup olive oil and ¼ cup yogurt or sour cream for butter and beat them together with the orange zest, orange juice, and egg in Step 3.

RASPBERRY-ROSEMARY-ALMOND BREAD Herbs introduce a hint of savory to fresh fruit and nut breads; rosemary and thyme pair particularly well with berries: Add ½ teaspoon almond extract to the wet ingredients. Fold 1 cup raspberries and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves into the batter.

6 Ingredients to Add to Fresh Fruit and Nut Bread

• Dried fruit, chopped or sliced, up to 1 cup
• Fresh rosemary or thyme leaves, chopped, up to ¼ cup
• Nut or fruit liqueur, substitute up to ¼ cup for juice
• Nut extract, up to 1 teaspoon
• Almond flour, substitute for up to 1 cup of the all-purpose
• Chopped candied ginger, up to ½ cup

7 Toppings for Fresh Fruit and Nut Bread

• Whipped Butter
• Orange Glaze
• Creamy Lemon Glaze
• Butterscotch Sauce
• Maple Glaze
• Cinnamon Glaze
• Macerated berries

Ideal Fresh Fruit and Nut Combinations

• Cranberries with walnuts or pistachios
• Blueberries with pecans and cardamom
• Pears with candied ginger and walnuts
• Figs with toasted hazelnuts
• Apricots with pistachios (skinned)
• Mangoes with macadamia nuts
• Strawberries or blackberries with almonds and lime zest
• Persimmons with walnuts and nutmeg
• Grapes with peanuts, halved

All About Fruit Ripening (And How to Accelerate It)

As with all food, the key to better flavor is careful consideration of ingredients. So it’s no surprise that the way to better fruit-based baked goods is better fruit—well ripened, in season, and locally sourced. It’s fairly easy to navigate the last two criteria with a bit of research, but determining ripeness can be more elusive. Knowing which fruit you can continue to ripen at home will go a long way in helping you choose your market haul.

Pineapple, watermelon, and grapes, as well as most citrus and berries, do not ripen once picked, so bring them home when they’re ready to eat.

Other fruits continue to ripen off the vine. These include most stone fruit, blueberries, figs, cantaloupe, bananas, kiwi, apples, pears, and mangoes. To accelerate the ripening process, place the fruit in a brown paper bag, seal it, and wait a few days. You can speed the process up even further by adding a banana to the bag. It will release some ethylene gas, which will help ripen the other fruit faster.

Lemon-Poppy Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: A little more than 1 hour

Lemon-Poppy Bread offers light, refreshing flavor in a rich cake. It’s not too sweet, as the nutty seeds offset the lemon’s tang. For dessert, top the loaf with a Lemon Glaze, pair it with a fruit sauce, or serve with macerated berries. This recipe can serve as the foundation for a variety of citrus cakes (see the end of the recipe for ideas).

• 1 stick butter, melted and cooled, plus softened butter for greasing
• 2 cups flour, plus more for dusting
• 1 cup sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1½ tablespoons grated lemon zest
• ¼ cup poppy seeds
• ½ cup fresh lemon juice
• ⅓ cup milk
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with softened butter and dust with flour.

2. Whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl. Stir in the lemon zest and poppy seeds until distributed evenly.

3. Whisk together the melted butter, lemon juice, milk, eggs, and vanilla in a separate bowl. Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients and stir until just combined. Do not overmix; it’s okay if the batter is not perfectly smooth.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out almost entirely clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature or wrap it in plastic and keep at room temperature for a couple days.

LEMON CORNMEAL BREAD For a more crumbly, cornbread-like texture: Replace ½ cup of the flour with ½ cup yellow cornmeal. Substitute brown sugar for granulated. Replace the milk with buttermilk.

OLIVE OIL TANGERINE BREAD The flavors of Sicily: Swap the lemon zest for tangerine zest. Replace the lemon juice with ¼ cup orange liqueur and ¼ cup tangerine juice. Use ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil instead of the melted butter.

LIME-POPPY BREAD Lime is so tart that the amount of zest and juice is cut back: Substitute 1 tablespoon lime zest for the lemon zest and ⅓ cup lime juice for the lemon juice. Increase the milk to ½ cup.

ORANGE-GINGER BREAD Use 2 tablespoons orange zest instead of the lemon zest and replace the poppy seeds with ½ cup finely diced candied ginger. Swap the lemon juice for orange juice.

GRAPEFRUIT-YOGURT BREAD The best way to highlight grapefruit’s bitter tang is by pairing it with tart yogurt: Substitute grapefruit zest and juice for the lemon zest and juice. Replace the milk with whole-milk yogurt.

LEMON-LAVENDER BREAD Replace the poppy seeds with ¼ cup roughly chopped culinary-grade dried lavender buds.

6 Great Toppings for Lemon-Poppy Bread

• Creamy Lemon Glaze
• Whipped Butter
• Orange Glaze (best on the Orange-Ginger Bread and Olive Oil Tangerine Bread)
• Macerated berries
• Fruit Sauce
• Coconut Glaze

9 Additions to Lemon-Poppy Bread

• Black sesame seeds, substitute up to ¼ cup for poppy seeds
• Flaxseed, substitute up to ¼ cup for poppy seeds
• Shredded coconut, up to ½ cup
• Fruit, up to 1 cup
• More poppy seeds, increase to ½ cup
• Dutch-process cocoa powder, substitute up to ½ cup for all-purpose flour
• Candied ginger, diced, up to ½ cup
• Nuts, ground or chopped, up to ½ cup
• Citrus liqueur, substitute up to ¼ cup for citrus juice

How to Add Whole Grain to Any Quick Bread

Whole grains add hearty flavor and texture, not to mention nutrition, to baked goods. Here’s how to add them to your quick breads.

Zucchini Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1¼ hours

Vegetables are the unsung heroes of the quick bread world; they bring subtle, often mysterious flavor and keep breads moist. This zucchini bread is made with olive oil and is only lightly sweet, which makes it a great bread to top with butter and a drizzle of honey for breakfast. Try combining two different shredded vegetables in one loaf to add depth of flavor.

• ½ cup olive oil, plus more for greasing
• 2 cups flour
• 1 cup sugar
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
• ¾ cup fresh orange juice or milk
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup grated zucchini
• ½ cup chopped pecans

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with olive oil.

2. Whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl.

3. Beat together the olive oil, zest, juice, and eggs in a separate bowl. Pour the wet mixture into the dry ingredients, stirring just enough to combine. Do not overmix; it’s okay if the batter is not perfectly smooth. Fold in the zucchini and pecans.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out almost entirely clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for a couple days.

VEGAN ZUCCHINI BREAD Substitute 2 tablespoons ground flaxseed mixed with 6 tablespoons water for the eggs; let sit for at least 3 minutes until it has a gel-like consistency. Replace the milk with soy or almond milk or use juice.

CARROT-GINGER BREAD Replace the zucchini with grated carrots. Whisk 1 teaspoon ground ginger into the dry ingredients. Fold up to ½ cup chopped candied ginger into the batter if you like.

SWEET POTATO SPICE BREAD The perfect accompaniment for chilly fall weather: Substitute peeled and grated sweet potato or winter squash for the zucchini. Replace half the granulated sugar with packed light brown sugar. Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ground ginger, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves into the dry ingredients. Fold ½ cup chopped candied ginger into the batter (optional).

CHOCOLATE ZUCCHINI BREAD Sounds weird; tastes delicious: Replace ½ cup flour with Dutch-process cocoa powder. Fold up to 1 cup chopped dark chocolate into the batter.

PARSLEY PARSNIP BREAD Parsnips are even sweeter than carrots: Substitute grated parsnips for the zucchini. Replace the orange juice with apple juice. Fold 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley into the batter.

7 Additions for Vegetable Bread

• Fresh rosemary or thyme leaves, chopped, up to ¼ cup
• Vanilla extract, 1 teaspoon
• Ground spices, like cinnamon, cardamom, or cloves (pick just one), up to 1 teaspoon
• Dark chocolate, chopped, up to 1 cup
• Candied ginger, chopped, up to ½ cup
• Toasted nuts, chopped, up to 1 cup
• Dried fruit, chopped or sliced as needed, up to ½ cup

3 Versatile Toppings for Vegetable Bread

• Creamy Lemon Glaze
• Cream Cheese Frosting
• Ginger Buttercream

Adding Grated Vegetables to Quick Breads

Although fruit is often in the limelight when it comes to baking, vegetables can add welcome flavor, color, moisture, and texture to muffins and quick breads. Shredded root vegetables or dense vegetables like squash work best; use about 1 cup per recipe. If you do add them, you might want to tweak the flavorings in the recipe. Here are a few of my favorite combinations, which can be added to any of the recipes in this chapter:

Gingerbread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1 hour

This gingerbread recipe holds nothing back. It’s dark, dense, and loaded with spices. Since it’s so dense, it can sometimes sink a bit in the center. It’s so good, no one will complain, but to avoid this, you can bake it in a square baking pan (and it’ll bake in about half the time). Serve it with yogurt and berries for breakfast; lemon sauce or whipped cream for tea; ice cream for dessert.

• 6 tablespoons butter, cut into cubes, plus more for greasing
• 1¾ cups flour, plus more for dusting
• ¾ cup dark brown sugar
• ¾ cup unsulphured molasses (not blackstrap)
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 4 teaspoons ginger
• 1½ teaspoons cinnamon
• ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
• ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
• ¼ teaspoon cardamom
• ¼ teaspoon salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Generously grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with butter and dust with flour.

2. Bring ½ cup of water to a boil in a medium saucepan, then stir in the butter until melted. Beat in the brown sugar and the molasses until smooth, then add the eggs, one at a time.

3. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt in a large bowl. Add this mixture to the saucepan and fold to combine. Do not overmix; it’s okay if the batter is not perfectly smooth.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out almost entirely clean. Cool completely in the pan on a rack, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for a couple of days.

WHOLE WHEAT MOLASSES BREAD A savory variation: Substitute 1¼ cups whole wheat flour and ½ cup coarse cornmeal for the all-purpose flour. Omit the spices and increase the salt to 1 teaspoon. Replace the water and butter with 1 cup yogurt; beat the brown sugar and molasses with the yogurt until smooth. Bake at 325°F.

ORANGE GINGERBREAD Whisk 2 tablespoons grated orange zest and 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice into the wet ingredients. Fold in 2 tablespoons chopped candied orange peel (optional).

COFFEE GINGERBREAD Use ¾ cup coffee instead of the water. Increase the flour to 2 cups.

3 Toppings for Gingerbread

• Cream Cheese Frosting
• Orange Glaze (best on the Orange Gingerbread)
• Cinnamon Glaze (best on the Coffee Gingerbread and Orange Gingerbread)

7 Add-Ins for Gingerbread

• Orange zest, up to 1 tablespoon
• Grated fresh ginger, up to 1 tablespoon
• Candied ginger or orange or lemon peel, chopped, up to ¼ cup
• Pomegranate seeds, up to ½ cup
• Fresh cranberries, up to ½ cup
• Raisins, up to ½ cup
• Dark chocolate, chopped, up to 1 cup

Pain d’Épices

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1 hour

Pain d’Épices is a French spice bread from the Alsace region that goes as well with savory foods as sweet ones. Toast it and top with cheese or serve it alongside soup and it’s dinner. Pair it with baked fruit or crumble it over ice cream and it’s dessert. For increased sweetness, mix dried or candied fruit into the batter. Prepare the bread a day before serving to allow its flavor to intensify.

• 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, softened, plus more for greasing
• 3 cups whole wheat flour, plus more for dusting
• ½ cup dark rye flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon ginger
• ½ teaspoon allspice
• ½ teaspoon black pepper
• ½ teaspoon aniseeds, or ¼ teaspoon ground
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 egg
• ¾ cup honey
• 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
• ¾ cup buttermilk

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with butter and dust with flour.

2. Whisk together the flours, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt in a bowl.

3. Beat together the butter, egg, honey, and zest in a separate bowl with an electric mixer. Add the dry ingredients, alternating with the buttermilk, in 3 additions, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until the bread is a deep golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out almost entirely clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for up to a week.

HONEY YOGURT BREAD Reduce the whole wheat flour to 2½ cups, keep the ½ cup dark rye flour, and add ½ cup coarse cornmeal. Replace the buttermilk with yogurt.

CHINESE FIVE-SPICE BREAD Replace the spices with 1½ tablespoons Chinese five-spice blend. (To make your own blend, combine 1 teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns, 1 teaspoon ground star anise, 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and ½ teaspoon ground cloves.)

JAM SPICE BREAD Beat ½ cup jam of your choice and ¼ cup honey into the butter and egg mixture.

BRAZILIAN CHOCOLATE-HONEY SPICE BREAD Substitute 3 cups all-purpose flour and ½ cup Dutch-process cocoa powder for the whole wheat and dark rye flours. Omit the black pepper and aniseeds.

MAPLE OAT SPICE BREAD Substitute rolled oats for the dark rye flour. Replace the honey with 1 cup maple syrup.

Coffee Cake

Makes: At least 8 servings

Time: About 1 hour

An anytime cake; serve it for breakfast, dessert, or something in between. The streusel topping is layered in the middle and on top of the cake so that every bite has some crunch. For an easy flavor variation, incorporate finely chopped fruit, chocolate chunks, or warm spices like ginger and cardamom into the streusel mix.

• 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold butter, plus softened butter for greasing
• 1¼ cups sugar
• 2 cups plus 3 tablespoons flour
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup chopped walnuts or pecans
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 egg
• ¾ cup milk

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 9-inch square baking pan with softened butter.

2. Combine ¾ cup of the sugar, 3 tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon salt, 3 tablespoons cold butter, and the nuts in a small bowl; mix with your fingers until it just comes together. Set this streusel mixture aside.

3. To make the cake: Combine the remaining 2 cups flour, the baking powder, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, ½ cup sugar, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into bits, in a bowl (you can use an electric mixer on low speed). Mix well with a fork until all of the flour is coated with some of the butter.

4. Still on low speed, beat the egg into the batter, then the milk, and mix until blended. Pour half the batter into the prepared pan and sprinkle about half the streusel mixture over it. Add the remaining batter, then the remaining streusel. Bake for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool on a rack for at least 15 minutes before cutting. Best served warm, but not bad a day or 2 later, reheated.

VEGAN COFFEE CAKE For the streusel, substitute hardened (refrigerated) coconut oil for the butter. For the cake, replace the butter with melted coconut oil. Substitute 1 tablespoon ground flaxseed mixed with 3 tablespoons water for the egg; let sit for at least 3 minutes, until it has a gel-like consistency. Use almond or soy milk in place of the milk.

WHOLE GRAIN COFFEE CAKE Substitute 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons whole wheat flour and 1 cup spelt flour for the all-purpose flour.

BUTTERMILK OR YOGURT COFFEE CAKE Buttermilk and yogurt lend lightness, moisture, and a bit of tartness to the rich cake: Substitute buttermilk or yogurt for the milk. Reduce the baking powder to 1 teaspoon and add 1 teaspoon baking soda.

CINNAMON COFFEE CAKE Increase the cinnamon to 2 tablespoons, divided equally between the streusel and cake. For the streusel, substitute ¾ cup packed light brown sugar for the granulated sugar.

BLUEBERRY COFFEE CAKE For the streusel, substitute ¾ cup packed light brown sugar for the granulated sugar and toss ½ cup fresh blueberries into the mixture. For the cake, fold ½ cup fresh blueberries into the batter.

PEAR-GINGER COFFEE CAKE Replace the cinnamon with ginger. For the streusel, substitute ¾ cup packed light brown sugar for the granulated sugar and toss ½ cup chopped peeled pears into the mixture. Fold ½ cup chopped peeled pears into the cake batter.

ORANGE-CARDAMOM COFFEE CAKE Replace the cinnamon with cardamom. Stir 2 teaspoons grated orange zest into the dry ingredients for the cake and replace ¼ cup of the milk with ¼ cup fresh orange juice.

COFFEE CAKE WITH OAT STREUSEL For the streusel, substitute rolled oats for ½ cup of the nuts.

3 Decadent Glazes to Drizzle over Coffee Cake

• Coffee Caramel Sauce
• Rich Vanilla Cake Soak
• Ginger Glaze

4 Delicious Additions to Coffee Cake

• Apples, peeled and chopped, up to 1 cup
• Sour cherries, pitted and chopped, up to 1 cup
• Hazelnuts, chopped, up to ½ cup
• Dark chocolate, chopped, up to 1 cup

Southern Corn Bread

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

Time: 45 to 50 minutes

Corn bread people are divided into savory and sweet camps, and the line falls roughly around the Mason-Dixon. Southerners usually make corn bread that goes with dinner, alongside chili, greens, and beans. Most Northerners, who like cakey, sweet varieties, will prefer Rich, Sweet Corn Bread.

• 2 tablespoons butter, melted, or olive oil, plus butter for greasing
• 1½ cups cornmeal
• ½ cup flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 egg
• 1¼ cups buttermilk or yogurt, plus more as needed

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 9-inch square baking pan with some butter.

2. Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Whisk the egg into the buttermilk. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the dry ingredients just enough to combine. If the batter is very dry and doesn’t come together easily, add a few tablespoons more buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it comes together.

3. Add the melted butter and stir until just incorporated; avoid overmixing. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread it into an even layer. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is lightly browned, the sides have pulled away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cut into squares and serve hot or warm.

WHOLE WHEAT QUINOA CORN BREAD Hearty whole grains create a great crumbly texture with a bit of crunch: Substitute whole wheat flour for the all-purpose flour. Stir 1 cup cooked quinoa (any color) into the flour mixture.

CAST-IRON CORN BREAD For a perfectly crisp crust, turn to your skillet: Heat the oven to 400°F. Put 2 tablespoons butter in a 9-inch cast-iron skillet and place it in the oven. When the batter is ready, reduce the heat to 375°F, take the skillet out of the oven, and swirl the butter around to coat the edges. Pour the batter into the skillet and bake for 25 to 30 minutes.

CORNY CORN BREAD Add 1 cup corn kernels, fresh or frozen, to the wet ingredients.

MAPLE BACON CORN BREAD Cook 4 to 6 slices maple bacon until it’s crisp. Drain the bacon on paper towels and use some of the fat from the skillet to grease the baking pan. Measure the remaining bacon fat and add enough melted butter to make ¼ cup total to use in the batter. Crumble the bacon into the batter and stir to combine.

JALAPEñO-CHEDDAR CORN BREAD Add ½ cup grated cheddar cheese and 1 tablespoon minced seeded jalapeño chile to the dry ingredients after mixing.

CORN AND BEAN BREAD Reduce the buttermilk to 1 cup; omit the flour. Stir 1½ cups well-cooked white beans (canned are fine), puréed and strained, into the milk and egg mixture before adding it to the dry ingredients.

SAUSAGE AND ONION CORN BREAD Cook ¼ pound crumbled spicy sausage in a skillet over medium heat until browned, breaking it into small chunks as it cooks. Use a slotted spoon to transfer it to a plate lined with paper towels. Set aside the sausage and sauté 1 diced yellow onion in the sausage grease until it is soft and translucent. Set it aside with the sausage to cool. Sprinkle the sausage and onions over the batter after pouring it into the pan.

3 Savory Additions to Corn Bread

• Ground cayenne or chipotle pepper, up to ½ teaspoon
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, sprinkled over the batter before baking
• Fresh herbs, chopped, up to 1½ tablespoons

Rich, Sweet Corn Bread

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

Time: 45 to 50 minutes

For a sweeter take on traditional corn bread, double down on butter, eggs, and sugar. The flavor is rich and intense, but the whipped egg whites keep the texture light. Play with sweet and savory by sprinkling a pinch of salt and a tablespoon of chopped fresh rosemary over the batter or play up the bread’s sweetness by folding in blueberries or raspberries.

• 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted, plus butter for greasing
• 1½ cups cornmeal
• ½ cup flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ¼ cup sugar
• 2 eggs, separated
• 1¼ cups buttermilk or yogurt, plus more as needed

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 9-inch square baking pan with some butter.

2. Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking soda, salt, and sugar in a large bowl.

3. Whisk the egg yolks into the buttermilk and beat the whites separately with an electric mixer until stiff but not dry peaks form. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the dry ingredients just enough to combine everything, then fold in the whites. If the batter is very dry and doesn’t come together easily, add a few tablespoons more buttermilk, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it comes together.

4. Add the melted butter and stir until just incorporated; avoid overmixing. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread it into an even layer. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is lightly browned, the sides have pulled away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cut into squares and serve hot or warm.

SWEET POTATO CORN BREAD Substitute sweet potato purée (1 or 2 sweet potatoes) for the buttermilk and packed light brown sugar for the granulated sugar. Replace the baking soda with 2 teaspoons baking powder. Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon into the dry ingredients.

BROWN BUTTER CRANBERRY CORN BREAD Tart cranberries will complement the rich nuttiness of the browned butter. Melt the butter on the stove over medium-high heat. Watch it closely, stirring occasionally, until it turns a light amber color, about 5 minutes. Fold 1 cup halved fresh cranberries into the batter.

HONEY ORANGE CORN BREAD Whisk 1 tablespoon grated orange zest into the dry ingredients. Substitute honey for the sugar, whisking it into the milk mixture with 1 teaspoon vanilla extract and 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice.

MAPLE CORN BREAD Substitute maple syrup for the sugar, whisking it into the milk mixture with 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.

Leftovers Bread

Makes: About 10 servings

Time: About 45 minutes

Leftover grains are incredibly useful, so it’s usually worth making extra to have on hand. Besides serving them for breakfast like oatmeal or for dinner as a bed for a stew, mix them with a few pantry ingredients and toss them in the skillet to make this fast, versatile bread. You can make it in a normal 9-inch round baking pan instead of the skillet if you prefer.

• 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted, plus butter for greasing
• 1 cup whole wheat flour
• ½ cup all-purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 2 eggs
• ⅓ cup packed light brown sugar
• 1⅔ cups buttermilk or yogurt
• 1¼ cups cooked medium or coarse grains, like spelt, quinoa, barley, bulgur, farro, or buckwheat

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease an ovenproof 9-inch skillet with butter.

2. Whisk together the flours, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon in a large bowl.

3. Beat the eggs with the brown sugar in a separate large bowl. Whisk in the melted butter, then stir in the buttermilk. Add the cooked grains, then fold in the dry ingredients until just combined.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared skillet and spread it into an even layer. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes, until the top is lightly browned, the sides have pulled away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Cut into squares or wedges and serve warm or at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for up to a couple days.

SPICED LEFTOVERS BREAD Whisk 1 teaspoon allspice, ½ teaspoon cardamom, and ¼ teaspoon ginger into the flour mixture.

CORNMEAL LEFTOVERS BREAD Substitute coarse yellow cornmeal for the all-purpose flour.

SPICY CHICKPEA LEFTOVERS BREAD This is a great bread for sopping up stew or runny eggs: Substitute chickpea flour for the whole wheat flour. Omit the cinnamon and whisk 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, and 2 teaspoons za’atar into the dry ingredients. Reduce the brown sugar to ¼ cup.

DILL AND CARAWAY SEED LEFTOVERS BREAD A more rustic, farmer-style bread: Omit the cinnamon. Whisk 1 teaspoon caraway seeds and ½ teaspoon dill seeds into the flour mixture. Substitute rye flour for the whole wheat flour.

ROSEMARY OLIVE OIL LEFTOVERS BREAD Substitute 3 tablespoons olive oil for the butter. Omit the cinnamon; stir 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves into the egg mixture along with the grains.

Liberian Rice Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1 hour

Rice bread is a staple of the Liberian diet for good reason: It stays moist for up to a week and can be eaten alongside dinner, as dessert, or like a coffee cake. (Plus, it’s gluten-free.) The use of plantains is an interesting twist on familiar banana bread, but bananas can be used in a pinch. Very ripe plantains will be almost entirely black and make the bread so sweet you can reduce the sugar by ¼ cup. Go with the whole cup if your plantains aren’t absolutely ripe.

• ¾ cup neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing
• 2 cups rice semolina (or cream of rice cereal)
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ginger
• 4 large ripe (black) plantains, mashed
• 1 egg
• ½ cup milk

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan with oil.

2. Whisk together the rice semolina, sugar, baking soda, salt, and ginger in a large bowl.

3. Mix together the oil and mashed plantains in a separate bowl. Beat in the egg and milk until well combined. Stir this mixture into the dry ingredients just enough to combine everything.

4. Pour the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until the bread is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of the bread comes out almost entirely clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 15 minutes, then carefully turn it upside down to release the loaf. Serve warm or at room temperature or wrap in plastic and keep at room temperature for up to a week.

SPICED LIBERIAN RICE BREAD Turn rice bread into a fall treat with a blend of warm spices: Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves into the dry ingredients. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract to the mashed plantains.

BANANA RICE BREAD For a more familiar take on rice bread: Substitute 3 to 4 ripe bananas for the plantains. Add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract to the mashed bananas.

COCONUT RICE BREAD Substitute packed brown sugar for the granulated sugar and ¼ cup fresh lime juice for ¼ cup of the milk. Add 1 tablespoon grated lime zest to the dry ingredients. Fold 1 cup shredded unsweetened coconut into the batter.

PINEAPPLE NUT BREAD Substitute 1½ cups all-purpose flour and ½ cup wheat bran for the rice semolina. Fold ½ cup chopped dried pineapple and ½ cup chopped walnuts into the batter.

GINGER RICE BREAD Increase the ginger to 2 teaspoons and add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves to the dry ingredients. Reduce the sugar to ½ cup. Mix ½ cup molasses and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract into the mashed plantains.

3 Easy Glazes for Liberian Rice Bread

• Coconut Glaze
• Orange Glaze
• Cinnamon Glaze

Streusel Topping

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: About 10 minutes

This sweet, buttery crumble is the familiar and addictive topping on many breads and muffins—just sprinkle over the top before baking—as well as Blackberry Buckle and fruit pies of all sorts. You can omit the nuts, vary the spices, sub in oats or almond flour for half of the flour, or add 3 tablespoons cocoa powder to make a chocolate streusel.

• 1 stick butter, softened
• 1 cup packed brown sugar
• ½ cup chopped walnuts, pecans, or other nuts, or unsweetened shredded coconut
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• ½ teaspoon cinnamon, or to taste
• 1 cup flour, or more as needed Pinch of salt

1. Cream the butter and brown sugar using an electric mixer, food processor, or fork. Stir or pulse in the remaining ingredients until combined and crumbly; it won’t hold together like a dough.

2. Sprinkle evenly over the top of the muffins, quick bread, pie, crisp, or other item, covering the filling, then bake as the recipe directs.

Blueberry Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

This low-maintenance recipe is a canvas for experimentation. Mix and match your fruit with chopped chocolate, nuts, seeds, or spices, and, if you’re using frozen fruit, don’t bother to thaw it. The only rule here is not to overmix—muffin batter should be lumpy.

• 3 tablespoons neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing (optional)
• 2 cups flour
• ½ cup sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1 egg
• 1 cup milk, plus more if needed
• ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with a little oil or line it with paper or foil muffin cups.

2. Whisk together the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and cinnamon in a large bowl.

3. Beat together the egg, milk, lemon zest, and oil in a medium bowl. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir just enough to combine everything. If the batter is very dry and doesn’t come together easily, add 1 to 2 tablespoons more milk. Gently fold the blueberries into the batter.

4. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are browned on top and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for a couple days.

BLUEBERRY STREUSEL MUFFINS Sprinkle Streusel Topping over the muffins before baking.

CORNMEAL BLUEBERRY MUFFINS Cornmeal gives these muffins a great crumbly texture. Substitute cornmeal for ½ cup of the flour.

BLUEBERRY YOGURT MUFFINS Substitute ¾ cup sour cream or whole yogurt for the milk. Substitute baking soda for ½ teaspoon of the baking powder.

WHOLE WHEAT BLUEBERRY MUFFINS Substitute 1½ cups whole wheat flour and ½ cup ground flaxseed for the all-purpose flour.

BROWN BUTTER BLUEBERRY MUFFINS The nuttiness of brown butter plays well off sweet, tart blueberries: Substitute 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter for the oil. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook it until little brown flecks appear in the pan. Continue to swirl the butter until it turns a light amber color, then remove it from the heat.

RASPBERRY-WHITE CHOCOLATE MUFFINS Substitute fresh or frozen raspberries for the blueberries. Fold ½ cup chopped white chocolate into the batter.

PEACH OATMEAL MUFFINS Substitute rolled oats for 1 cup of the flour. Replace the blueberries with chopped fresh or frozen peaches.

CRANBERRY-GINGER MUFFINS Substitute 2 teaspoons ground ginger or minced fresh ginger for the cinnamon. Replace the blueberries with fresh or frozen cranberries.

COCONUT MUFFINS Substitute coconut oil for the neutral oil and packed light brown sugar for the granulated sugar. Replace the lemon zest with lime zest and the blueberries with shredded unsweetened coconut. Sprinkle each muffin with a bit of coconut before baking.

SPICE MUFFINS Add ½ teaspoon allspice, ½ teaspoon ginger, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves to the dry ingredients. Substitute ½ cup raisins or currants for the blueberries.

SAVORY MUFFINS Play with savory flavors for an outside-the-box muffin: Reduce the sugar to 1 tablespoon and omit the blueberries and lemon zest. Fold 1 cup cooked minced onion or leek and ½ cup shredded cheddar cheese into the batter.

Sweet and Rich Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

More sugar, eggs, and butter gives these muffins a dense, cakelike texture, and the added richness means they can double as dessert—topped with frosting, they’re practically cupcakes. Any of the Blueberry Muffins variations will work here as well.

• 1 stick butter, at room temperature, plus more for greasing (optional)
• ¾ cup sugar
• 2 eggs
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 2 cups flour
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup sour cream or yogurt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with a little butter or line it with paper or foil muffin cups.

2. Use a wooden spoon or an electric mixer to cream the butter and sugar together; beat in the eggs and vanilla.

3. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a separate bowl.

4. Add about half the dry ingredients to the butter-sugar mixture, then stir in the sour cream. Add the rest of the dry ingredients and mix until just moistened. The batter should be lumpy, not smooth, and thick but moist.

5. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the muffins are browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for up to a couple days.

HONEY FIG MUFFINS Substitute honey for ¼ cup of the sugar. Fold 1 cup chopped fresh figs into the batter.

CRANBERRY PECAN MUFFINS Whisk 1 teaspoon cardamom into the flour mixture. Fold 1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries and ½ cup chopped toasted pecans (see page 57) into the batter.

RASPBERRY HAZELNUT MUFFINS Fold ½ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts (see page 57) and ½ cup raspberries into the batter.

CINNAMON BUN MUFFINS Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon into the flour mixture. Substitute packed light brown sugar for the granulated sugar. For the cinnamon topping: Using a fork, mix together 4 tablespoons (½ stick) softened butter, ¾ cup packed light brown sugar, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, and ¼ teaspoon salt; sprinkle the topping on each muffin before baking.

LEMON POPPY SEED MUFFINS Beat 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest with the butter and sugar. Add 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice with the eggs and vanilla. Fold ⅓ cup poppy seeds into the batter. While the muffins bake, whisk together 2 tablespoons lemon juice and ¾ cup confectioners’ sugar; brush a thin layer of glaze over the muffins while still warm to moisten (optional).

RASPBERRY ALMOND MUFFINS Substitute ½ teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla. Fold 1 cup raspberries and ½ cup ground almonds into the batter.

4 Extra-Sweet Toppings for Sweet and Rich Muffins

• Vanilla Buttercream
• Chocolate Ganache
• Orange Glaze
• Creamy Lemon Glaze

Double-Chocolate Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

Chocolate goes with practically everything—even breakfast. Use the variations that follow as a guide to fold in fruit, nuts, and spices to your liking. Dutch-process cocoa powder gives these muffins intense color and flavor. These are best eaten warm, while the chocolate chunks are still melted.

• ⅓ cup neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing (optional)
• 1½ cups flour
• ½ cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
• ¾ cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 cup chopped dark chocolate

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with a little oil or line it with paper or foil muffin cups.

2. Whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.

3. Beat together the eggs, milk, vanilla, and oil in a medium bowl. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir just enough to combine everything. Gently fold ¾ cup of the chopped chocolate into the batter.

4. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup chopped chocolate evenly over the muffins. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for a couple days.

VEGAN CHOCOLATE MUFFINS Substitute unsweetened almond milk for the milk. Replace the eggs with 2 tablespoons ground flaxseed mixed with 6 tablespoons water; let the mixture sit for 5 minutes until gel-like before using.

CHOCOLATE BUCKWHEAT MUFFINS Substitute buckwheat flour for ½ cup of the all-purpose flour. Increase the milk to 1¼ cups.

BLACK AND WHITE MUFFINS Substitute chopped white chocolate for the chopped dark chocolate.

CHOCOLATE S’MORES MUFFINS Dessert for breakfast: Reduce the chopped dark chocolate to ½ cup and add ¼ cup crushed graham crackers and ½ cup mini marshmallows to the batter. To make the streusel topping, combine 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, melted, with ¼ cup sugar, ⅓ cup chopped marshmallows, and ⅓ cup crushed graham crackers. Top each muffin with a spoonful of streusel before baking.

CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER MUFFINS Dollop a tablespoon of peanut butter on top of each muffin before baking; swirl the peanut butter into the batter with a toothpick or a knife.

CHOCOLATE CHERRY MUFFINS Substitute pitted and chopped fresh cherries for the dark chocolate.

CHOCOLATE BANANA MUFFINS Chocolate-banana is a great combination, but if you want to kick the flavor up another notch, eat the muffins with a swipe of peanut butter: Mash 1 to 2 ripe bananas into the egg mixture.

ESPRESSO CHOCOLATE MUFFINS Double down on the caffeine: Whisk 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder into the flour mixture.

CHOCOLATE ALMOND MUFFINS Replace the vanilla extract with ½ teaspoon almond extract. Substitute sliced almonds for the dark chocolate.

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE MUFFINS Whisk 2 teaspoons cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon cayenne or chili powder into the flour mixture.

4 Irresistible Add-Ins for Double-Chocolate Muffins

• Unsweetened shredded coconut, up to 1 cup
• Hazelnuts, chopped, up to 1 cup
• Orange zest, up to 1 tablespoon
• Coarse sugar, sprinkled on top of unbaked muffins for sweet, crunchy tops

Bran Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

These bran muffins are hearty but still light in texture and not too sweet. Toast the wheat bran for deep flavor. Replace the raisins with any dried fruit, like cherries, chopped figs, or chopped apricots.

• ⅓ cup neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing (optional)
• 2 cups wheat bran
• ½ cup flour
• ¼ cup packed light brown sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 cup raisins
• 1 egg
• 1 cup buttermilk or yogurt
• 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with a little oil or line it with paper or foil muffin cups. Toast the wheat bran on a baking sheet for 6 to 8 minutes. Set aside to cool and turn the oven up to 400°F.

2. Whisk together the flour, brown sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and cooled wheat bran in a large bowl. Stir in the raisins.

3. Beat together the egg, buttermilk, orange zest, vanilla, and oil in a medium bowl. Add the wet ingredients to the dry ingredients and stir just enough to combine everything.

4. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until the muffins are browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for up to a couple days.

DARKER BRAN MUFFINS Heat the raisins in a saucepan with ½ cup water over medium heat; simmer until all the water has been absorbed, about 10 minutes. Purée the raisins in a blender or food processer until smooth, then add the purée to the wet ingredients along with 3 tablespoons molasses. Reduce the buttermilk to ½ cup.

MORNING GLORY MUFFINS Fruit and vegetables add moisture and sweetness: Reduce the raisins to ½ cup; fold in ½ cup grated carrots, ½ cup chopped apple, ¼ cup shredded unsweetened coconut, and ½ cup chopped walnuts.

BANANA CHOCOLATE CHIP BRAN MUFFINS Substitute 2 mashed bananas for ½ cup of the buttermilk. Substitute chopped dark chocolate for the raisins.

BERRY BRAN MUFFINS I like blueberries, raspberries, and blackberries: Substitute fresh or frozen mixed berries for the raisins. Sprinkle each muffin with a pinch of granulated sugar before baking.

HONEY-OAT BRAN MUFFINS Replace the light brown sugar with honey. Substitute rolled oats for 1 cup of the wheat bran.

PUMPKIN BRAN MUFFINS Substitute pumpkin purée for ½ cup of the buttermilk. Replace the raisins with ½ cup pumpkin seeds.

SPICE BRAN MUFFINS Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon allspice, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves into the flour mixture. Add 3 tablespoons molasses to the wet ingredients.

Applesauce Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

Applesauce is the key to both taste and texture in this recipe. Its consistency lends moisture to the muffins, while warm spices and brown sugar enhance the apples’ natural sweetness and soft acidity. For a nuttier flavor, substitute whole wheat flour for half or more of the all-purpose flour.

• 1 stick butter, melted, plus softened butter for greasing (optional)
• 2 cups flour
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• ½ teaspoon ginger
• ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• 1 egg
• ⅔ cup packed light brown sugar
• 1 cup unsweetened applesauce
• 1 cup pecans or walnuts, chopped

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with a little butter or line it with paper or foil muffin cups.

2. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, spices, and salt in a medium bowl.

3. Beat together the egg and brown sugar in a large bowl until well combined. Slowly add the butter, whisking until creamy. Stir in the applesauce, then add the dry ingredients and mix just enough to combine everything. Gently fold the nuts into the batter.

4. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for a couple days.

Peach Muffins The ultimate summer muffin. Cook 1 ripe medium-large peach in a saucepan of boiling water for 2 to 3 minutes. Move the peach to a bowl of iced water. Remove the peel if you like. Discard the pit and purée the peach in a blender or food processor with 1 teaspoon vanilla extract until it is the consistency of smooth applesauce. Substitute 1 cup of the peach purée for the applesauce. Omit the nutmeg.

MANGO CHUTNEY MUFFINS In a saucepan, mix 1 cup diced peeled mango, ¼ cup golden raisins, 2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger, ¼ cup cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, and ¼ teaspoon cardamom. Add a pinch of hot red pepper flakes or 1 teaspoon minced fresh chile (optional). Cover the pan and bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. Uncover the pan, reduce the heat to medium or medium-low heat, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally while the mixture simmers. When it is the consistency of chunky applesauce, remove it from the heat and cool to room temperature. (Or use store-bought chutney.) Substitute 1 cup mango chutney for the applesauce. Omit the cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg.

PINEAPPLE APPLESAUCE MUFFINS Substitute melted coconut oil for the butter. Fold ½ cup chopped fresh pineapple and ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut into the batter. Omit the nuts. To make these vegan, replace the egg with 1 tablespoon ground flaxseed mixed with 3 tablespoons water and let sit 3 minutes until it has a gel-like consistency; lower the temperature to 350°F and bake for 30 to 40 minutes.

APPLESAUCE OAT MUFFINS Substitute rolled oats for ¾ cup of the all-purpose flour.

4 Other Purées for Muffins

• Mashed banana (add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract)
• Sweet potato or pumpkin (add ¼ teaspoon ground cloves)
• Pear (add ½ teaspoon ginger)
• Carrot (substitute honey for ⅓ cup of the brown sugar)

Oatmeal Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

Like banana bread, this is an excellent use of an ingredient that might otherwise be tossed. For added flavor, stir chopped chocolate or shredded coconut into the oatmeal, sprinkle cinnamon sugar over each muffin before baking, or top them with Cinnamon Glaze when they’re finished.

• 1 stick butter, melted, plus softened butter for greasing (optional)
• 2 cups flour
• 1 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1½ teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup cooked oatmeal
• ½ cup milk
• 2 eggs
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin with a little butter or line it with paper or foil muffin cups.

2. Whisk together the flour, brown sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl.

3. Mash the cooked oatmeal with the milk in a separate bowl. Add the melted butter, then beat in the eggs and vanilla until well combined. Stir the wet mixture into the dry ingredients just enough to combine everything.

4. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for up to a couple days.

APPLE SPICE OATMEAL MUFFINS Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, and ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves into the dry ingredients. Fold 1 cup chopped peeled apple into the batter.

OATMEAL RAISIN MUFFINS Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon into the dry ingredients. Fold 1 cup raisins or dried currants into the batter.

PARSLEY POLENTA MUFFINS Parsley is a bright, refreshing flavor that plays well off polenta’s finer grain: Substitute cooked coarse polenta for the oatmeal. Increase the salt to 1 teaspoon. Fold ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley into the batter.

COCONUT CHOCOLATE CHIP OATMEAL MUFFINS Combining coconut and chocolate is never a bad idea: Substitute melted coconut oil for the butter. Fold ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut and 1 cup chopped dark chocolate into the batter.

WHOLE WHEAT BLUEBERRY OATMEAL MUFFINS For added depth and nuttiness, replace the all-purpose flour with 1 cup whole wheat flour and 1 cup almond flour. Fold 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries into the batter.

ORANGE CRANBERRY OATMEAL MUFFINS Stir 1 tablespoon grated orange zest into the wet ingredients. Substitute orange juice for the milk. Fold 1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries into the batter.

Sticky Pecan Muffins

Makes: 12

Time: About 40 minutes

These are the nonyeasted, no-fuss, equally satisfying versions of sticky buns. The sticky topping is baked into the bottom of each muffin for a sweet surprise when you bite into it. Best eaten warm.

• 12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) butter, melted
• ¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon cinnamon
• ¼ cup maple syrup
• 1 cup pecans, chopped and toasted
• ¾ cup granulated sugar
• 2 eggs
• 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• ¾ cup sour cream or yogurt
• 1½ cups flour
• 1 teaspoon baking soda

1. Heat the oven to 375°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper or foil muffin cups.

2. For the topping: Whisk 4 tablespoons of the butter with the brown sugar, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, the cinnamon, and the maple syrup in a large bowl until well combined; stir in ½ cup of the pecans. Place a spoonful of the mixture into each muffin cup and set aside.

3. In the same bowl you made the topping, whisk together the remaining 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter and the granulated sugar. Beat in the eggs, orange zest, and vanilla, then stir in the sour cream.

4. Whisk together the flour, baking soda, and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt in a separate bowl. Stir the flour mixture into the wet ingredients until just combined. Gently fold in the remaining ½ cup pecans.

5. Distribute the batter among the muffin cups, filling them about two-thirds full. Place the tin on a baking sheet to prevent dripping; bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are browned on top and a toothpick inserted into the center of a muffin comes out clean. Cool in the pan on a rack for 5 minutes before removing the muffins. Serve warm or at room temperature or cover tightly and keep at room temperature for a couple days. To reheat, place the muffins on a foil-lined baking sheet, cover them loosely with foil, and bake at 350°F for about 15 minutes.

STICKY PECAN-RAISIN MUFFINS Raisins complement the sticky pecan topping: Substitute raisins or dried currants for ½ cup of the pecans; fold them into the batter.

STICKY PECAN PUMPKIN MUFFINS Substitute unsweetened puréed pumpkin for the sour cream. Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ginger, and ½ teaspoon nutmeg into the dry ingredients.

STICKY BANANA WALNUT MUFFINS Reduce the sour cream to 3 tablespoons and combine it with 2 to 3 mashed ripe bananas. Substitute chopped toasted walnuts for the pecans.

STICKY VANILLA ORANGE PECAN MUFFINS Increase the orange zest to 2 tablespoons and the vanilla extract to 2 teaspoons. Or, for a more intense vanilla flavor, use the seeds of 2 vanilla beans in place of vanilla extract. Add 3 tablespoons fresh orange juice to the wet ingredients.

3 Adult Add-Ins for Sticky Pecan Muffins

• Dark rum, up to 2 tablespoons
• Grand Marnier, up to 2 tablespoons
• Bourbon, up to 2 tablespoons

Biscuits and Scones

Biscuits and scones start from the same place and diverge characteristically. Scones are ultra-rich biscuits from the United Kingdom that are usually shaped into triangles; American biscuits are lighter, taller, often cut perfectly round, and yet are somehow less fancy than scones. Both are wonderful studded with berries, slathered with butter and honey, or made savory with herbs, cheese, and bacon, and both are best eaten the day they are made. (Biscuits, in fact, are best straight out of the oven.) Wrap any leftovers in paper towels and store in an airtight zipper bag; to reheat, wrap the biscuits or scones in aluminum foil and bake them in a 300°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Great biscuits and scones require few but good ingredients and must be handled with care (see Cold Butter and a Light Touch).

Recipes

Buttermilk Biscuits

Sweet Potato Biscuits

Strawberry Shortcakes

Cinnamon Pinwheel Biscuits

Orange-Olive Oil Biscuits

English-Style Scones

Cranberry-Almond Scones

Chocolate Scones

Whole Wheat Scones

Popovers

Boston Brown Bread

Irish Brown Bread

Irish Soda Bread

Rieska (Finnish Rye Bread)

Stuffed Coconut Bread

Buttermilk Biscuits

Makes: 6 to 12, depending on size

Time: 20 to 30 minutes

The best biscuits are made with cold butter, which produces flakiness, and buttermilk, which supplies a welcome tang and the best rise. For an especially delicate crumb, use cake flour. These biscuits are easily adapted to lean sweet or savory; once you’ve mastered the basic technique, try the variations that follow. The classic biscuit recipe is great with macerated berries (see Macerated Fruit) or fruit jam or paired with eggs and bacon.

• 2 cups all-purpose or cake flour, plus more for shaping
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into ½-inch slices
• ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk or yogurt

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

2. Add the buttermilk and stir just until the mixture comes together and forms a ball. Spread some flour (about ¼ cup) on a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto the flour. Knead the dough a few times, adding a little more flour to your hands only if the dough is very sticky.

3. Press the dough out ¾ inch thick and cut out 1½- to 2½-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter or sturdy drinking glass. Put the rounds on an ungreased baking sheet. Press together the scraps, pat them out ¾ inch thick, and cut out more biscuits. Repeat once more if possible.

4. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size, until the biscuits are golden brown. Transfer the biscuits to a rack and serve within 15 minutes or wrap in foil and keep in a 200°F oven for up to an hour.

Whole Wheat Biscuits Whole wheat flour absorbs more liquid than all-purpose, so you may need to add an extra tablespoon or so of buttermilk: Substitute whole wheat pastry flour for the all-purpose flour.

BAKING POWDER BISCUITS Slightly different flavor with a cakier texture: Increase the baking powder to 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon and omit the baking soda. Use milk in place of the yogurt or buttermilk.

DROP BISCUITS Not quite as good, but ideal when you’re in a rush: Increase the buttermilk or yogurt to 1 cup and drop tablespoons of dough onto a greased baking sheet instead of patting it out flat. Bake as directed.

BACON-ONION BISCUITS Add 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper to the dry ingredients. Fry 5 or 6 slices of bacon over medium-high heat until crispy; remove from the pan and chop. Lower the heat and cook ½ cup chopped yellow onion until it is translucent and lightly browned. Before adding the buttermilk, toss the bacon and onion in the flour and butter mixture.

CHEDDAR-CHIVE BISCUITS Before adding the buttermilk, toss ¾ cup shredded cheddar cheese and ¼ cup minced fresh chives in the flour and butter mixture.

SAUSAGE AND GOAT CHEESE BISCUITS Remove the meat from the casings of 3 or 4 sausages and fry in a nonstick pan over medium-high heat until browned, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon as you cook. Before adding the buttermilk, toss the sausage, ¼ cup crumbled goat cheese, and ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley into the flour and butter mixture.

ORANGE CURRANT BISCUITS Add 1 tablespoon grated orange zest and 3 tablespoons sugar to the dry ingredients. Before adding the buttermilk, toss ½ cup chopped dried currants in the flour and butter mixture.

STRAWBERRY AND CREAM BISCUITS This fantastic combination doesn’t need to be limited to Sundays at Wimbledon. Add 3 tablespoons sugar to the dry ingredients. Substitute ¾ cup cream for the buttermilk. Before adding the cream, toss 1 cup chopped ripe strawberries and their juice into the flour and butter mixture.

8 Sweet and Savory Add-Ins for Buttermilk Biscuits

• Fresh corn kernels, up to 1 cup
• Cooked sausage, bacon, or ham, diced, up to 1 cup
• Cheese, shredded or cubed, up to 1 cup
• Dried or fresh fruit, chopped, up to ½ cup
• Ground spices or spice blends, like chili or curry powder, up to 1 tablespoon
• Jalapeños, minced, up to ¼ cup
• Fresh herbs, chopped, up to ¼ cup
• Citrus zest, finely grated, up to 1 tablespoon

Making Biscuits

Step 1
Work the butter into the flour mixture with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

Step 2
Stir in the buttermilk until the dough comes together.

Step 3
Knead the dough a few times on a floured surface.

Step 4
Pat the dough out to about ¾ inch thick and cut out rounds with a biscuit cutter or sturdy drinking glass.

Making Biscuits and Scones in a Food Processor

Feel free to use a food processor to mix the dough for biscuits and scones. Put the flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in the bowl of the food processor; pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse several more times to incorporate it into the flour mixture, until it looks like coarse meal, before adding the buttermilk or other liquid. Pulse in quick bursts just until the ingredients are combined and make sure you don’t let it get gummy. Overmixing is the enemy of any biscuit recipe.

Sweet Potato Biscuits

Makes: 8 to 10, depending on size

Time: About 30 minutes

There’s no combination more southern than sweet potatoes and biscuits. If you’re making purée from scratch, try incorporating fresh herbs, spices, or brown sugar for more interesting flavor. Eat the biscuits straight out of the oven with whipped butter and a drizzle of honey or Maple Glaze.

• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into ½-inch slices, plus more for greasing
• 2 cups all-purpose or cake flour, plus more for shaping
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup cooked, drained, and puréed sweet potato
• ½-¾ cup buttermilk or yogurt, plus more if your potatoes are very dry

1. Heat the oven to 450°F and grease a baking sheet with some butter. Mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Stir in the puréed sweet potato.

2. Add ½ cup of the buttermilk and stir just until the mixture comes together and forms a ball, adding more buttermilk as needed. Spread some flour (about ¼ cup) on a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto the flour. Knead the dough a few times, adding a little more flour to your hands only if the dough is very sticky.

3. Press the dough out ½ inch thick and cut out 1½- to 2½-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter or sturdy drinking glass. Put the rounds on the prepared baking sheet. Press together the scraps, pat them out ½ inch thick, and cut out more biscuits. Repeat once more if possible.

4. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, depending on size, until the biscuits are golden brown. Transfer the biscuits to a rack and serve within 15 minutes or wrap in foil and keep in a 200°F oven for up to an hour.

HONEY-CINNAMON SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Mix 3 tablespoons honey into the sweet potato purée. Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon into the dry ingredients.

MAPLE SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Mix 3 tablespoons maple syrup into the sweet potato purée. Whisk ½ teaspoon cinnamon into the dry ingredients.

GINGER-PECAN BUTTERNUT BISCUITS Substitute butternut squash purée for the sweet potato purée. Whisk 1 teaspoon ginger into the dry ingredients. Before adding the buttermilk, stir ½ cup chopped pecans into the flour and butter mixture.

SPICED SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Whisk ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon allspice, and 3 tablespoons light brown sugar into the dry ingredients.

JALAPEÑO SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Before adding the buttermilk, stir 2 tablespoons chopped jalapeños into the flour and butter mixture.

SAGE AND ONION SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a pan over low heat. Add 1 cup minced onion or shallots and cook until translucent and lightly brown; let cool. Stir the onion and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage into the flour mixture.

Strawberry Shortcakes

Makes: 6 to 12 servings

Time: About 40 minutes with premade biscuits

Strawberries are the classic filling, but the shortcake form takes well to any ripe, flavorful fruit: blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, peaches, apricots, or cherries. I love to make this typical summertime dessert in winter as well, with poached apple or pear slices, and a touch of cardamom or cinnamon in the biscuit dough and the whipped cream. It may go without saying, but these are only as good as your strawberries!

• Buttermilk Biscuits
• 4-5 cups ripe strawberries, hulled and sliced
• 2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
• 2 cups cream
• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Let the biscuits cool completely on a rack before proceeding; you don’t want to eat them hot.

2. Meanwhile, wash and prepare the strawberries. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the sugar, or more or less to taste, and let sit while you whip the cream. Whip the cream until it holds soft peaks, then slowly add the remaining sugar and the vanilla and whip for 1 minute more.

3. Split the biscuits and fill them with the whipped cream and fruit. Serve immediately.

SKILLET SHORTCAKE PIE Part slump, part shortcake: Don’t bake the biscuit dough. Add 1 tablespoon cornstarch or flour to the strawberry mixture. Place the fruit mixture in a buttered ovenproof 9-inch skillet and top with mounds of the biscuit dough. Bake for about 30 minutes or until the biscuits turn golden brown. Let cool slightly. Top with whipped cream just before serving.

POACHED PEAR OR APPLE SHORTCAKE A great choice for the cold months: Add ½ teaspoon each cinnamon and cardamom to the biscuit dough and prepare as directed. Substitute Poached Pears or Poached Apples for the strawberries and sugar.

Cinnamon Pinwheel Biscuits

Makes: 10 to 12, depending on size

Time: 30 to 40 minutes

Pinwheel biscuits look impressive but are simple to make. The filling complements the already-flavorful biscuit without overwhelming it. It’s quick and easy to change the entire flavor of these biscuits just by tweaking the filling. Be sure to be gentle with the dough when rolling it out—too much handling will make the biscuit tough.

• 2 cups all-purpose or cake flour, plus more for shaping
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into ½-inch slices, plus 2 tablespoons, melted
• ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk or yogurt
• ¼ cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons cinnamon

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

2. Add the buttermilk and stir just until the mixture comes together and forms a ball. Spread some flour (about ¼ cup) on a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto the flour. Knead the dough a few times, adding a little more flour to your hands only if the dough is very sticky.

3. Whisk together the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl. Press the dough into an oblong shape about ¼ inch thick and brush with the melted butter. Sprinkle the dough with the cinnamon sugar, leaving a ½-inch border all around. Starting from a long side, roll the dough into a log. Cut ¾-inch-thick slices and place the pinwheels on an ungreased baking sheet.

4. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size, until the biscuits are golden brown. Transfer the biscuits to a rack and serve within 15 minutes or wrap in foil and keep in a 200°F oven for up to an hour.

CARDAMOM-ORANGE PINWHEEL BISCUITS Substitute cardamom for the cinnamon and add 1 tablespoon grated orange zest to the cardamom sugar.

CHOCOLATE PINWHEEL BISCUITS The contrast between the dough and chocolate filling looks great and tastes even better: Substitute 1 tablespoon cocoa powder for the cinnamon. Sprinkle ¼ cup chopped dark chocolate over the dough before rolling.

JAM PINWHEEL BISCUITS Omit the cinnamon sugar and melted butter. Instead, spread ½ cup jam over the dough before rolling; I like raspberry or apricot.

RUGELACH PINWHEEL BISCUITS The flavors of traditional rugelach (“little twist” in Yiddish) cookies are a natural fit for these biscuits: Replace the cinnamon sugar with 2 tablespoons each granulated sugar and light brown sugar, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ cup raisins, and ¼ cup chopped walnuts.

BACON CHEDDAR PINWHEEL BISCUITS Replace the cinnamon sugar with ¼ cup each chopped crispy bacon (a slice or two) and shredded cheddar cheese. Omit the melted butter.

GOAT CHEESE AND CHIVE PINWHEEL BISCUITS Replace the cinnamon sugar with ½ cup crumbled goat cheese and 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives. Omit the melted butter.

6 More Fantastic Fillings for Pinwheel Biscuits

• Granulated sugar, grated lemon zest, and ginger
• Granulated sugar, cocoa powder, and chopped hazelnuts
• Granulated sugar, cranberries, and grated orange zest
• Light brown sugar, chopped apple, and cinnamon
• Crumbled sausage and sautéed diced onion
• Shredded Gruyère cheese and sautéed mushrooms

Cold Butter and a Light Touch

In terms of ingredients, biscuits and scones are incredibly low maintenance; in terms of handling, they require your undivided attention. The key to better scones and biscuits boils down to two factors: cold butter and a light touch. Those flaky, light layers depend almost entirely on how you treat the dough. Cut your butter into small pieces, keep them cold, and incorporate them into the dough gently and your success rate will skyrocket.

Orange-Olive Oil Biscuits

Makes: 8 to 10, depending on size

Time: 20 to 30 minutes

Olive oil biscuits can be thrown together much faster and with more ease than their butter-based counterparts. Use good olive oil to impart a rich depth of flavor to the dough—this isn’t the time to skimp. Olive Oil Biscuits are especially suited to herb and citrus variations since these ingredients enhance the natural aroma of the oil. See the variations on Buttermilk Biscuits for more ideas.

• 2 cups all-purpose or cake flour, plus more for shaping
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1-2 tablespoons grated orange zest
• ¼ cup olive oil
• ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons buttermilk or yogurt

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and zest in a large bowl. Add the olive oil and buttermilk and stir until just combined.

2. Spread some flour (about ¼ cup) on a clean work surface and turn the dough out onto the flour. Knead the dough a few times, adding a little more flour to your hands only if the dough is very sticky.

3. Press the dough out ¾ inch thick and cut out 1½- to 2½-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter or sturdy drinking glass. Put the rounds on an ungreased baking sheet. Press together the scraps, pat them out ¾ inch thick, and cut out more biscuits. Repeat once more if possible.

4. Bake for 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size, until the biscuits are golden brown. Transfer the biscuits to a rack and serve within 15 minutes or wrap in foil and keep in a 200°F oven for up to an hour.

ROSEMARY AND BLACK PEPPER OLIVE OIL BISCUITS Whisk 2 teaspoons black pepper and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves into the dry ingredients; omit the orange zest.

PARMESAN-BASIL OLIVE OIL BISCUITS How to turn your biscuits Italian: Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil and ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese to the dry ingredients.

LIME-COCONUT OIL BISCUITS Lime brightens the subtly sweet coconut: Substitute melted coconut oil for the olive oil and lime zest for the orange zest. Replace the buttermilk with coconut milk.

LEMON-THYME OLIVE OIL BISCUITS Substitute lemon zest for the orange zest. Stir 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves into the dry ingredients.

CILANTRO-LIME OLIVE OIL BISCUITS The lightest, freshest biscuit you’ll ever make: Substitute 2 teaspoons lime zest for the orange zest. Stir 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro into the dry ingredients.

English-Style Scones

Makes: 8 to 10

Time: About 40 minutes

A proper English scone is all about refinement; it’s rich but not too sweet and eaten simply with jam and clotted cream. (If you can find clotted cream, great. If not, use sour cream, crème fraîche, or even whipped cream.) Be delicate with the dough to maintain its light texture. If you have a food processor, just pulse the ingredients together and you’re done.

• 2 cups cake flour, plus more as needed
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces
• 1 egg, beaten
• ½-¾ cup heavy cream, plus more for brushing

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flour, baking powder, salt, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

2. Add the egg and just enough cream to form a slightly sticky dough. If the dough is very sticky, add a tiny bit of flour; the dough should still stick to your hands a little.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead once or twice, then press it into a ¾-inch-thick circle; cut into 2-inch rounds with a biscuit cutter or a glass. Put the rounds on an ungreased baking sheet. Gently reshape the leftover dough and cut again. Brush the top of each scone with a bit of cream and sprinkle with a little of the remaining sugar.

4. Bake for 9 to 11 minutes or until the scones are light golden brown. Serve immediately, preferably with clotted cream and strawberry jam.

WHOLE WHEAT OATMEAL SCONES If light and delicate isn’t your thing, try this heartier version: Substitute 1¼ cups whole wheat flour for the cake flour. Add ¾ cup rolled oats to the flour mixture.

ORANGE-CARAWAY SCONES Before adding the cream, mix 1 tablespoon caraway seeds and 1 tablespoon grated orange zest into the flour mixture.

GOAT CHEESE AND DILL SCONES Before adding the cream, mix ½ cup crumbled goat cheese and ½ cup chopped fresh dill into the flour mixture.

WALNUT SCONES Whisk ¼ cup ground toasted walnuts into the flour. Substitute brown sugar for the granulated sugar. Add a touch more cream to the dough if necessary.

LEMON-YOGURT SCONES The flaky English scone is the perfect canvas for citrus and a dollop of Macerated Fruit: Substitute yogurt for the cream. Stir 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest into the yogurt before adding it to the flour mixture.

RHUBARB SCONES Combine 1 cup chopped rhubarb stalks with 3 tablespoons sugar. Stir into the flour mixture before adding the cream.

Cranberry-Almond Scones

Makes: 8 to 10

Time: About 40 minutes

This is the unrestrained version of the classic English scone. Not only are these scones sweeter; they’re also more amenable to mix-ins and variations than their polished counterparts. Using cake flour will give you a more delicate crumb.

• 2 cups all-purpose or cake flour, plus more for shaping
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces
• ⅓ cup dried cranberries
• ⅓ cup sliced almonds
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 egg
• ½-¾ cup cream or milk, plus more for brushing

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flour, baking powder, salt, and ⅓ cup of the sugar in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Fold in the cranberries and almonds.

2. Beat the vanilla with the egg; add the egg to the flour mixture along with just enough cream to form a slightly sticky dough. If the dough is very sticky, add a tiny bit of flour; the dough should still stick a little to your hands.

3. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead once or twice, then press it into a ¾-inch-thick circle; cut across the diameter into 8 or 10 wedges.

4. Brush the top of each scone with a bit of cream, sprinkle with a little of the remaining sugar, and transfer one by one to an ungreased baking sheet with a spatula. Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until the scones are golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool a bit and serve right away if possible.

ROCK CAKE SCONES Rustic scones for rushed days: Don’t bother shaping the dough; just spoon golf-ball-sized mounds onto an ungreased baking sheet.

RICOTTA SCONES Ricotta adds moisture and tang to these scones: Substitute ½ cup whole-milk ricotta for the cream, adding 2 to 3 tablespoons milk or cream to thin it out a bit.

OATMEAL-RAISIN SCONES Omit the almonds and swap in raisins for the cranberries. Substitute rolled oats for ¾ cup of the flour. If you like, top the scones with Cinnamon Glaze.

MAPLE-CINNAMON SCONES Sweet and spicy, these scones are pure comfort: Omit the cranberries and almonds. Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon to the flour mixture. Whisk 3 tablespoons maple syrup into the cream.

LEMON-CREAM SCONES Add 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest to the flour mixture. Whisk 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice into the cream. If you like, top the scones with Creamy Lemon Glaze.

PEACH MELBA SCONES Turn this classic sundae into breakfast: Increase the vanilla extract to 2 teaspoons. Substitute ⅓ cup chopped peach and ⅓ cup raspberries for the cranberries and almonds.

SPICED WALNUT SCONES Whisk 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ½ teaspoon ginger, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves into the flour. Swap chopped walnuts for the almonds; omit the cranberries.

HONEY-LAVENDER SCONES Omit the cranberries and almonds; whisk 1 tablespoon culinary-grade dried lavender buds into the flour mixture. Reduce the sugar to 3 tablespoons and whisk ¼ cup honey into the cream. Serve with Lemon Curd.

5 Undeniably Good Flavor Combinations for Scones

• Blueberry and grated lemon zest
• Pear and chopped candied ginger
• Blackberry and grated orange zest
• Almond and any chopped dried fruit: fig, cherry, apricot
• Chopped chocolate and walnut

Making Scones

Press the dough into a ¾-inch-thick circle and cut into 8 or 10 wedges. Brush the top with cream and then sprinkle with sugar before baking.

Chocolate Scones

Makes: 8 to 10

Time: About 40 minutes

The easy weekday alternative to pain au chocolat or chocolate muffins.

• 2 cups all-purpose or cake flour, plus more for shaping
• ⅓ cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces
• ¾ cup dark chocolate, chopped
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1 egg
• ½-¾ cup cream or milk, plus more for brushing

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, salt, and ⅓ cup of the sugar in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Fold in the chopped chocolate.

2. Beat the vanilla with the egg; add the egg to the flour mixture along with just enough cream to form a slightly sticky dough. If the dough is very sticky, add a tiny bit of flour; the dough should still stick a little to your hands.

3. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead once or twice, then press it into a ¾-inch-thick circle; cut across the diameter into 8 or 10 wedges.

4. Brush the top of each scone with a bit of cream, sprinkle with a little of the remaining sugar, and transfer one by one to an ungreased baking sheet with a spatula. Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until the scones are set but still a bit soft in the middle. Transfer to a rack to cool a bit and serve right away if possible.

CHOCOLATE-OAT SCONES Substitute rolled oats for ½ cup of the all-purpose or cake flour.

MEXICAN CHOCOLATE SCONES Whisk 2 teaspoons cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon cayenne into the flour mixture. If you like, top the scones with Cinnamon Glaze.

CHOCOLATE-ORANGE SCONES Reduce the baking powder to 2½ teaspoons and add ½ teaspoon baking soda. Stir 1 tablespoon grated orange zest into the flour mixture; whisk 2 tablespoons fresh orange juice into the milk or cream. If you like, top the scones with Orange Glaze.

CHOCOLATE-MOCHA SCONES Whisk 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder into the flour mixture.

RASPBERRY WHITE CHOCOLATE SCONES Substitute ⅓ cup chopped white chocolate for the dark chocolate. Before adding the milk, stir ⅓ cup raspberries into the flour and butter mixture.

CHOCOLATE-HAZELNUT SCONES Reduce the chopped chocolate to ⅓ cup; add ⅓ cup chopped toasted hazelnuts to the flour and butter mixture. For extra intensity, top the scones with Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread.

Whole Wheat Scones

Makes: 8 to 10

Time: About 40 minutes

Whole wheat adds wonderful heartiness, flavor, and texture to scones. It’s also heavier and absorbs more liquid than all-purpose flour, so be prepared to add a bit more milk than you would otherwise. For more ideas, see the variations from Cranberry-Almond Scones.

• 1 cup whole wheat flour
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces
• 1 egg
• ½-¾ cup milk or cream, plus more for brushing

1. Heat the oven to 450°F. Mix together the flours, baking powder, salt, and ¼ cup of the sugar in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

2. Add the egg to the flour mixture along with just enough milk to form a slightly sticky dough. If the dough is dry, add a tiny bit more milk; the dough should still stick to your hands a little.

3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead once or twice, then press it into a ¾-inch-thick circle; cut across the diameter into 8 or 10 wedges.

4. Brush the top of each scone with a bit of cream, sprinkle with a little of the remaining sugar, and transfer one by one to an ungreased baking sheet with a spatula, leaving at least 1 inch between them. Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until the scones are golden brown. Transfer to a rack to cool a bit. Serve right away if possible.

BARLEY FLOUR WHOLE WHEAT SCONES The brown sugar’s molasses flavor adds richness and complements the scones’ nutty whole wheat base: Substitute barley flour for the all-purpose flour and light brown sugar for the granulated sugar. If you have it, use whole wheat pastry flour for a more delicate crumb.

BERRY WHOLE WHEAT SCONES Berries add moisture as well as flavor: Before adding the milk, fold 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest and 1 cup berries, like raspberries or blueberries, into the flour and butter mixture.

WHOLE WHEAT MANGO-COCONUT SCONES The addition of tropical fruit brightens these otherwise earthy, hearty scones: Before adding the milk, fold ⅓ cup chopped peeled mango and ⅓ cup shredded unsweetened coconut into the flour and butter mixture. Substitute unsweetened coconut milk for the regular milk.

WHOLE WHEAT CHOCOLATE OAT SCONES Just because they’re whole wheat doesn’t mean they can’t be chocolate: Use rolled oats in place of ⅓ cup of the whole wheat flour. Before adding the milk, fold ¾ cup chopped dark chocolate into the flour and butter mixture.

WHOLE WHEAT FETA AND ROSEMARY SCONES A savory option that pairs just as well with whole wheat: Omit the sugar. Before adding the milk, fold ⅓ cup crumbled feta cheese and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves into the flour and butter mixture.

Popovers

Makes: 12

Time: About 45 minutes

Popovers are a one-bowl recipe that comes together in no time—you already have the ingredients—so you can make them as easily for a weekday meal as you can for a dinner party. These eggy rolls are the perfect savory accompaniment to anything from scrambled eggs to Thanksgiving dinner.

• 1 tablespoon melted butter or neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn), plus more for greasing
• 2 eggs
• 1 cup milk
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup flour

1. Heat the oven to 425°F. Grease a 12-cup muffin tin or a popover tin and put it in the oven while you make the batter.

2. Beat together the eggs, milk, butter, sugar, and salt in a large bowl. Beat in the flour a little bit at a time; the mixture should be smooth.

3. Fill the muffin tins at least halfway (if your tin is large, this might make fewer than 12 popovers). Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F and continue baking for 15 minutes or until the popovers are puffed and browned (do not check the popovers until they have baked for a total of 30 minutes). Immediately remove from the pan and serve hot, if possible, with jam and butter.

GRUYÈRE-CHIVE POPOVERS Gruyère lends an irresistible nuttiness to the light rolls: Stir ¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese and 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives into the flour mixture.

BLACK PEPPER AND PARMESAN POPOVERS Stir 1 teaspoon black pepper and ⅓ cup grated Parmesan cheese into the dry ingredients.

CORN POPOVERS Add a touch of sweetness and a bit of grit to the classic recipe: Mix ⅓ cup fresh corn kernels, lightly mashed, into the wet ingredients. Substitute cornmeal for ¼ cup of the all-purpose flour.

LEMON THYME POPOVERS Use citrus to brighten the flavor: Stir 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves into the flour mixture.

EVERYTHING POPOVERS Just like your favorite bagel, but better: Stir 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon caraway seeds, and 1 tablespoon poppy seeds into the flour mixture. Fold 1 tablespoon minced garlic and ¼ cup minced sautéed onions into the batter.

BACON-JALAPEñO POPOVERS Serve alongside a bowl of chili: Fold ¼ cup chopped crispy cooked bacon and ¼ cup diced jalapeños into the batter.

Boston Brown Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1½ hours

This soft-crusted New England staple is traditionally steamed in old coffee cans. It’s much easier to bake it in a loaf pan. Serve alongside baked beans.

• Butter or neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn) for greasing
• 1 cup rye flour
• 1 cup whole wheat flour
• 1 cup cornmeal
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• 1¼ teaspoons baking soda
• ¾ cup maple syrup or unsulphured molasses
• 2 cups buttermilk or yogurt

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. Liberally grease a 9 × 5-inch loaf pan.

2. Whisk together the flours, cornmeal, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl. Add the maple syrup and buttermilk and stir until just mixed; this is a loose batter, not a dough.

3. Pour or spoon into the loaf pan and bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Cool on a rack for 10 minutes before removing from the pan; serve warm.

CINNAMON-RAISIN BOSTON BROWN BREAD Whisk 1 tablespoon cinnamon into the flour mixture. Fold 1 cup raisins into the prepared batter.

CRANBERRY-WALNUT BOSTON BROWN BREAD Brown bread meets classic fruit and nut bread: Fold 1 cup dried cranberries and ½ cup chopped walnuts into the prepared batter.

BLUEBERRY-ALMOND BOSTON BROWN BREAD It’s not unusual to see this bread made with New England’s favorite berry: Fold 1 cup dried blueberries and ½ cup chopped almonds into the prepared batter.

STEAMED BOSTON BROWN BREAD The original method: Grease two 1-pound coffee cans and place a round piece of parchment paper in the bottom of each. Divide the batter between the cans and place a piece of foil over each, securing it with kitchen twine. Place the cans in a stockpot and fill it with boiling water until the cans are three-quarters submerged. Cover and bring the water back to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Steam the breads for 1½ to 2 hours, until the breads begin to pull away from the sides of the cans and a skewer inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean.

Irish Brown Bread

Makes: 1 round loaf

Time: About 50 minutes

An earthy bread made with whole wheat and baking soda, Irish Brown Bread comes together quickly. It’s a great last-minute loaf to serve with a simple dinner of cheese or salmon or alongside a hearty stew. And it’s good for breakfast too, with butter and jam on top.

• 2½ cups whole wheat flour
• 1½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• ½ cup toasted wheat germ or bran
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1½ teaspoons salt
• 1½ teaspoons baking soda
• 1 stick cold butter, cut into pieces
• 2 cups buttermilk or yogurt

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Lightly flour a baking sheet.

2. Whisk together the flours, wheat germ, sugar, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

3. Add the buttermilk to the flour mixture and mix until a dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 3 minutes, until it forms a smooth ball. Shape the dough into a disk about 7 inches in diameter and 2 inches thick.

4. Transfer the dough to the baking sheet and use a sharp knife to cut an X into the surface, about ½ inch deep. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the loaf is lightly browned and sounds hollow when the bottom is tapped. Transfer to a rack to cool for 1 hour before serving.

IRISH BROWN RYE BREAD For more complex flavor, use a combination of flours: Decrease the whole wheat flour to 1½ cups and the all-purpose flour to 1½ cups. Add 1 cup rye flour to the flour mixture.

IRISH BROWN OAT BREAD For an even heartier bread with great texture: Substitute toasted rolled oats for the wheat bran; sprinkle the bread with a few extra oats before baking.

IRISH BROWN SEED BREAD Stir 1 tablespoon each sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, and flaxseeds into the flour mixture. Lightly sprinkle the bread with a mixture of the seeds before baking.

Irish Soda Bread

Makes: 1 round loaf

Time: About 45 minutes

Of all the quick breads, Irish Soda Bread tastes most like a yeasted bread, with its fine crumb and mild sourness. The easiest way to make it is in the food processor as you would biscuits or scones, but if you’re planning on adding mix-ins, proceed with the recipe by hand. To soften its crust, loosely wrap the hot bread in a kitchen towel to cool in its own steam.

• Butter or neutral oil (like grapeseed or corn) for greasing
• 2 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 cups whole wheat flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• ¾ teaspoon baking soda
• ¾ teaspoon baking powder
• About 1½ cups buttermilk or yogurt

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Grease the baking sheet with butter or oil.

2. Combine all the dry ingredients in a large bowl and stir to combine. Add enough buttermilk to make a soft but not-too-sticky dough. Knead for about 3 minutes by hand; the dough will be smooth and elastic. Let the dough rest for a few minutes.

3. Shape the dough into a round loaf. Slash the top with a sharp knife, making an X about ½ inch deep. Bake for at least 45 minutes or until the loaf is golden brown and sounds hollow when you tap the bottom with your fingers. Let cool thoroughly before cutting into slices or wedges.

CARAWAY-FENNEL SEED SODA BREAD For a subtle anise aroma: Stir 1½ tablespoons caraway seeds and 1½ tablespoons fennel seeds into the flour mixture.

RAISIN SODA BREAD After adding the buttermilk, fold ¾ cup raisins into the dough; mix by hand.

IRISH FARL Flattening the dough and cooking it on the griddle will give this bread a crisp bite: Heat a heavy griddle or a cast-iron frying pan over medium-low heat. Flatten the dough into a disk 6 to 8 inches in diameter and slice it into 4 wedges with a sharp knife. Dust the griddle or pan with very little flour and place the wedges about ½ inch apart on the griddle. Keep an eye on the heat and cook for about 20 minutes on each side or until they turn golden brown. Take the farls off the heat and wrap them in a dishtowel, hot side down, so that the residual steam can soften the crisp crusts. Best served hot.

IRISH SODA BREAD WITH BULGUR For a richer, nuttier soda bread: Reduce the all-purpose flour to 1¼ cups. Pour 1 cup boiling water over ¾ cup medium (#2) bulgur in a bowl and let sit for 30 minutes or until all the water has been absorbed and the bulgur is tender. Mix the bulgur in with the buttermilk.

SEEDED SODA BREAD Stir 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon poppy seeds, and 1 tablespoon sunflower seeds into the flour mixture.

Rieska (Finnish Rye Bread)

Makes: 1 round loaf

Time: About 50 minutes

It’s said that there’s a different recipe for this bread in every Finnish village. Rieska is made much like a scone and mimics its texture to a degree. The rye flour imparts nuttiness, and the oats contribute a hearty texture. For a more intense flavor, use pumpernickel flour. Serve this alongside any meal or, like the Finns, with a board of smoked fish, dill, honey, and butter.

• 5 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces, plus softened butter for greasing
• ¾ cup dark rye flour
• 1¼ cups all-purpose flour
• ⅓ cup rolled oats
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1⅓ cups buttermilk or yogurt

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Lightly grease a baking sheet with softened butter.

2. Whisk together the flours, oats, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl. Add the cold butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and mix until the dough comes together into a ball.

3. Form the dough into an 8-inch round on the baking sheet and bake for about 40 minutes, until golden brown.

CARAWAY-DILL RIESKA Dill is a typical flavor found in Finnish cooking: Add 2 teaspoons caraway seeds and 2 teaspoons dill seeds to the flour mixture.

SWEET POTATO RIESKA Another traditional rieska uses sweet potatoes as a base. Feel free to substitute pumpkin or another winter squash for sweet potato: Reduce the buttermilk to ¼ cup and mix it with 1 cup sweet potato purée (about 2 sweet potatoes).

Stuffed Coconut Bread

Makes: 1 loaf

Time: About 1¼ hours

This is a traditional West African bread, originally from Liberia. It’s a bit labor intensive for a quick bread, but the end result is a sweet, moist cake with a rich coconut flavor. The filling is the perfect place to play around with flavor and spices; see my ideas for add-ins at the end of the recipe.

Filling:

• 6 cups (18 ounces) shredded unsweetened coconut
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup milk
• ½ cup sugar
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon nutmeg
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Dough:

• 2 sticks cold butter, cut into pieces, plus softened butter for greasing
• 4 cups flour, plus more for dusting
• ⅓ cup sugar
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1¼ cups milk

1. Place the coconut and all the other ingredients for the filling in a deep pan along with 1¾ cups water. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring frequently, until the water has mostly evaporated and the mixture thickens; the coconut should be moist. Remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Heat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a 9-inch square baking pan. To make the dough, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture, breaking it into tiny pieces with your fingers until the mixture looks like coarse meal.

3. Pour the milk into the flour mixture and mix until you form a sticky dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into 2 pieces. Using a rolling pin dusted with flour, roll each piece into a 10-inch square.

4. Place the first square in the prepared pan and spread the coconut mixture evenly over it. Cover the coconut mixture with the second piece of dough, pinching the 2 square layers together at the edges to seal the filling inside. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the coconut bread is golden brown. Let cool before serving.

MANGO-STUFFED COCONUT BREAD Decrease the shredded coconut to 4 cups and add 2 cups chopped peeled mango to the filling mixture before cooking.

LIME-STUFFED COCONUT BREAD Add a bright citrus accent to turn this bread tropical: Stir 1 tablespoon grated lime zest into the coconut filling mixture before cooking.

4 Filling Add-Ins for Stuffed Coconut Bread

Substitute in part for shredded coconut before cooking:

• Pineapple, chopped, up to 2 cups
• Banana, sliced, up to 2 cups
• Dried fruit, chopped, up to 2 cups
• Macadamia nuts, chopped, up to 1 cup