Frostings, Fillings, and Sauces - How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman

How to Bake Everything: Simple Recipes for the Best Baking - Mark Bittman (2016)

Frostings, Fillings, and Sauces

Sauces and frostings can make the difference between a tasty dessert and a knockout. These are among the simplest recipes in this book, but they are transformative, adding not only sweetness, flavor, richness, texture, and more but also sealing in moisture. Anything from a cake to cookies to ice cream becomes something else entirely with the simple addition of a topping. They’re distinctive too: Black and White Cookies are defined by their icing, and a cupcake without frosting may as well just be a muffin.

Most sauces can be made ahead of time, with just a few ingredients. And if you have leftovers, you’ll quickly realize there is no end to things you can serve them with. Swap freely; if a combination sounds good to you, it probably is. And if you’re short on time, energy, or ingredients, a homemade sauce—like Chocolate Ganache, Caramel Sauce, Whipped Cream, or even Crème Anglaise and Zabaglione—elevates fresh fruit or store-bought ice cream into a satisfying and elegant dessert.

Some baked desserts, like layer cakes and filled doughnuts, may call for multiple sauces: one to fill and one to frost, for instance, or one to soak the cake and one to garnish it. In these cases, you may not use a full batch of everything, but having a bit of extra buttercream or caramel on your hands is not such a bad problem to have. If you’re worried about excess, it’s simple enough to halve a recipe (and just as easy to double it).

Frostings and Glazes

They don’t call it the icing on the cake for nothing. For people with a sweet tooth, frostings and glazes are the best part of desserts like cakes and doughnuts. These toppings can take something from good to amazing or from homely to extravagant with their flavor, texture, and visual appeal. The recipes that follow are the crowd pleasers and stunners, the finishing touches that will elicit oohs and ahs before anyone’s even taken a bite.

Frostings are the creamy toppings we all know and love, from meringuelike Seven-Minute Frosting to satiny Swiss Meringue Buttercream to dense, rich Cream Cheese Frosting. They offer wonderful contrast in texture to the crumb of a cake, the chew of a cookie, and any chunky filling either might have.

Glazes are a more understated icing and can be used for quick breads, doughnuts, and cakes, instead of or in addition to other toppings and sauces. Think of them as diluted frostings: whereas frostings are dense and opaque, glazes are usually translucent, revealing whatever is beneath.

Recipes

Whipped Cream

Chocolate Ganache

Chocolate Buttercream

Not-Too-Sweet Vanilla Buttercream

Cream Cheese Frosting

Swiss Meringue Buttercream

Seven-Minute Frosting

Quick Fudge Frosting

Lemon Glaze

Jam Glaze

Caramel Glaze

Royal Icing

Whipped Cream

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 5 minutes

Perhaps the most useful, versatile, and ubiquitous topping of all, whipped cream is so easy there’s absolutely no need to buy the spray can stuff, which doesn’t taste nearly as good and contains ingredients you don’t want. If you’re making a lot of it, it’s easier and faster to use an electric mixer, but you’ll do fine whipping smaller amounts by hand. Either way, start with well-chilled cream with no additives and a clean glass or metal mixing bowl. Add the sugar or flavorings just as the cream starts to hold its shape.

  • 1 cup cream
  • Up to ¼ cup sugar (optional)

1. Use a whisk or an electric mixer to beat the cream to the desired texture. To check this, dip the whisk or beater into the cream and pull up; see these illustrations for more info about soft and stiff peaks.

2. Once the cream is whipped to the consistency you like, gradually fold in the sugar if you’re using it. It’s best to use fresh whipped cream immediately since it will start to “weep,” or separate, but you can cover and refrigerate it for a few hours without much trouble. If you’re working more in advance, see How to Make Whipped Cream Ahead of Time for tips.

VEGAN WHIPPED CREAM A godsend. Instead of cream, use one 13½-ounce can of coconut cream or full-fat coconut milk. Don’t confuse this with cream of coconut, a processed food that is sometimes used in cocktails. Refrigerate the can overnight. In the morning, turn the can upside down and open it from the bottom. Discard any coconut water that rises to the top, and scoop the very thick, firm coconut cream into a large, chilled bowl. Add up to 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar and/or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract if you like and beat until soft peaks form.

Chocolate Ganache

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 15 minutes

This luscious mixture of chocolate and cream is a breeze to make and one of the most versatile of all sauces. At different consistencies, it can become a glaze, a dense filling for truffles, a frosting, or a mousselike whipped cream. You may find yourself slathering it on everything; see this list for ways to make the flavor your own.

  • 1 cup cream
  • 8 ounces dark chocolate, chopped

1. Put the cream in a pot and heat it until it’s steaming. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl, pour on the hot cream, and whisk until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the cream.

2. Use right away as a sauce or coating; as it cools down, it will start to set and get stiffer and harder to spread. See the variations to whip it into a smooth, rich frosting or turn it into a creamy glaze.

WHITE CHOCOLATE GANACHE A pleasant surprise on Chocolate Cake or sandwiched between Chocolate Wafer Cookies; of course, you can use it for any of the variations that follow: Substitute good-quality chopped white chocolate for the dark chocolate.

MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE Mild, sweet, and wonderful with caramel or nougat; like the white chocolate ganache, it works with any of the following variations: Use good-quality milk chocolate instead of dark.

RICH GANACHE FROSTING This is straight-up ganache, so use it on a relatively sturdy cake that won’t crumble much under the dense topping: Put the cooled cake on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. If the ganache is cool, gently rewarm it so it’s spreadable but not too hot and pour or ladle it over the cake in a slow, even layer from the center outward, letting it flow down the sides of the cake. Spreading by hand can pick up cake crumbs and ruin the smooth coating, so if you must spread, use a metal spatula that you’ve warmed by running it under hot water and then dried thoroughly. If you like, add flaky sea salt, chopped nuts, or fresh fruit. Refrigerate the whole thing—cake, rack, and pan—until the ganache sets, at least 30 minutes. Carefully transfer the cake to your serving plate; you can scrape up any leftover ganache and use it to make truffles.

WHIPPED GANACHE FROSTING Simply whipping the ganache will transform its texture; its light, fluffy consistency is perfect for frosting any cake or piping or filling a variety of confections: Use an electric mixer to beat the cooled ganache on low, gradually increasing the speed to medium-high until the mixture turns light and fluffy. If you like it sweeter, gradually add confectioners’ sugar, ¼ cup at a time (up to 1½ cups) to taste as you beat.

GANACHE DRIZZLE Let the ganache cool just enough that it’s still spreadable. Put it in a pastry bag fitted with a small tip or in a zipper bag with a small piece of the corner snipped off. Drizzle as decoration over any cake or cupcake, or even big cookies. With practice, you can use it to write letters and draw shapes.

QUICK GANACHE TRUFFLES One of the richest yet easiest treats you can make; see 12 Ways to Infuse Simple Syrup and Ganache and Chocolate Truffles for more ideas: Chill the ganache in the fridge until it’s solid all the way through, 1 to 2 hours depending on quantity. Scoop out a tablespoonful and quickly roll it into a 1-inch ball (wearing latex gloves helps to prevent melting); repeat, lining up the truffles on a plate or baking sheet as you work. If the truffles become too soft to handle, stick them in the fridge or freezer for a few minutes. Roll them in cocoa powder, confectioners’ sugar, or cinnamon-sugar. Serve immediately or refrigerate, wrapped in plastic, for a day or so.

QUICK GANACHE FUDGE An irresistible candy; no need for a candy thermometer: Line a cake pan or square baking dish with parchment paper and lightly grease it with butter or oil. When the ganache is still warm but not hot, mix in up to ½ cup chopped nuts, toasted sesame seeds or pepitas, dried fruit, candied ginger, or more chopped chocolate. Pour the mix into the prepared pan, let it set up in the fridge, and use a sharp knife to cut it into pieces. Keep refrigerated until you’re ready to eat.

CHOCOLATE GANACHE GLAZE As a midpoint between ganache and chocolate sauce, this is an especially lavish sauce for dipping fresh fruit or cookies; you can also use it to glaze cakes or top ice cream: Thin the still-warm ganache with additional cream, about 2 tablespoons at a time, until it’s easily pourable and doesn’t harden too much when cooled to room temperature. To test the consistency, spread a small spoonful on a plate; it should thicken but remain very soft. To serve this as fondue, gently rewarm it and use it for dipping fruit, Marshmallows, or cubed Pound Cake or Angel Food Cake.

CHOCOLATE WHIPPED CREAM Lighter and fluffier than whipped ganache, perfect anywhere you’d dollop Whipped Cream: Decrease the chocolate to 4 ounces. After Step 1, cover and refrigerate for several hours and up to 3 days. Whip as you would whipped cream until it forms soft peaks.

12 Ways to Infuse Simple Syrup and Ganache

Heat makes infusion a breeze. For simple syrup, add your flavoring (or mix and match any of the following) to the sugar and water, heat until the sugar is dissolved, and simmer over very low heat for 5 to 10 minutes unless otherwise noted. Leave in larger items or strain them out just before you transfer the syrup to a container. For ganache, add the flavoring to the cold cream, and by the time it’s warm enough to pour over the chocolate, it will carry the flavor beautifully.

The following are suggested amounts for 1 batch of simple syrup or ganache, but you can and should feel free to adjust the quantities to your taste:

  • Brown sugar or raw sugar, in place of the granulated sugar
  • Vanilla bean seeds, from 1 to 2 beans, with the scraped pod if you like (see page 30 for other ways to use spent vanilla bean pods)
  • Cinnamon sticks, 6; crushed cardamom pods, 6 to 8; whole cloves or whole allspice, 2 tablespoons. Feel free to combine; these are especially excellent with brown sugar and citrus.
  • Any citrus zest, 2 tablespoons minced or 2 to 3 strips, plus ¾ cup juice
  • Black or pink peppercorns, whole or cracked, ¼ cup (don’t be skeptical—pepper contributes a wonderfully fragrant, complex flavor)
  • Fresh ginger, ¼ pound (about 10 inches), peeled, cut into thin rounds. Steep for 30 to 45 minutes.
  • Fresh lemongrass, 2 to 4 stalks, coarsley chopped
  • Culinary-grade lavender buds, 2 tablespoons. Be careful adding more or it’ll taste soapy.
  • Fresh herbs: 1½ cups packed mint or basil leaves, 1 cup lemon verbena or lemon balm leaves, or 6 to 8 sprigs thyme or rosemary. Simmer for 5 minutes, then cover and steep off the heat for another 5 minutes.
  • Tea, like chamomile, green tea, or Earl Grey, 2 bags or 2 tablespoons loose leaf. Add to the mixture after the sugar has dissolved and steep for no more than 5 minutes.
  • Coffee beans, chopped or ground, ½ cup
  • Fresh hot chiles, like Thai bird’s eye, jalapeño, or habanero, coarsley chopped, 3 to 5

Tips, Tricks, and Variations for Whipped Cream

Stages of Whipped Cream

There are various stages to whipped cream that are good to know for any kind of cooking (they also apply to whipped egg whites; see page 56). You can vary the stiffness of the peaks according to the dessert: If you want the cream to melt into the dish, use soft peaks or cream whipped only enough to thicken a bit and drizzle over the top; stiff peaks are good for using as a frosting or filling for cakes or cookies.

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SOFT PEAKS When you dip beaters or a whisk into the bowl, the cream is not yet stiff enough to hold peaks; it just sort of flops over onto itself. But it doesn’t take long from this stage to stiff peaks, so be sure to stop beating and check the consistency frequently. This is the time to slowly add sugar if you’re using it.

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STIFF PEAKS Cream that stays on the spoon, slightly firm and stable. Dip the beaters or whisk into the cream and pull up; the peaks formed should stand upright with minimal drooping.

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OVERBEATEN If you beat whipped cream too much, it will start to look “clotted” or curdled. If this happens, try stirring in a little more cream by hand until smooth again. (Or keep whipping; you’ll eventually get butter, page 583.)

How to Make Whipped Cream Ahead of Time

Most people will tell you that whipped cream is best made just before serving, and it’s true that it can “weep” a bit if left to sit. But it’s not always convenient to make it last-minute, and it’s nice to have a bowl of ready-to-eat whipped cream in the fridge. So here’s how you do it: Whip it to soft peaks (preferably in a chilled metal bowl) or until it’s not quite as stiff as you want it. Folding or whisking 3 tablespoons Crème fraîche into the whipped cream will add extra stability, but it isn’t necessary. Cover and refrigerate—for up to 4 days! Just before serving, use a whisk to vigorously beat it a few times to fluff it up and reincorporate any separated liquid.

12 Ways to Flavor Whipped Cream

There are very few desserts that aren’t improved by a dollop of fluffy whipped cream, and it’s so versatile that you can flavor it to complement just about anything. Start with 1 cup cream, beat until it holds its shape, add flavorings, and beat until it’s ready. It’s easy to adjust the taste of the finished product if need be, so err on the conservative side.

VANILLA: Scrape the seeds from half a pod into the cream or use 1 teaspoon good-quality vanilla extract. If you add sugar as well, this is called Chantilly cream.

COFFEE: Dissolve 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder in 2 teaspoons of the cream, then add to the finished whipped cream and beat for a few seconds to incorporate.

HONEY: Use honey instead of sugar.

MAPLE SYRUP: Use some maple syrup in place of sugar. (Add just enough to flavor the whipped cream—say 1 tablespoon per cup of cream; if you want it sweeter, add sugar so you don’t liquefy the whipped cream.)

SPICE: Sprinkle in cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, and/or any other finely ground sweet spice, about ¼ teaspoon at a time to taste.

BOOZE: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons bourbon, brandy, Kahlúa, Grand Marnier, framboise, amaretto, etc.

CITRUS: Fold in ½ to 1 teaspoon or so grated citrus zest.

GINGER: Add ½ teaspoon finely grated or very finely minced fresh ginger.

ROSE WATER OR ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER: Add 1 to 2 teaspoons rose water or orange blossom water. An intriguing topping for Baklava, Orange-Almond Cake, and Olive Oil Cake.

SOUR CREAM: Whip ¼ cup sour cream, Crème fraîche, or mascarpone into the cream.

CHOCOLATE: Classic, delicious, and with many variations. See page 560 for instructions.

HERBS: Bring the cream just to a simmer. Add ⅓ cup chopped fresh herb (basil, mint, or rosemary works well). Refrigerate overnight to steep and then strain before whipping.

Chocolate Buttercream

Makes: Enough frosting and filling for one 9-inch layer cake or 2 dozen cupcakes

Time: 10 minutes

The easiest buttercream you’ll ever make—laced with rich, bittersweet chocolate. It can be paired with most cakes and adapted endlessly. You’d do well to use cream, but milk works too.

  • 2 ounces dark chocolate
  • 1 stick unsalted butter, softened
  • 4 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • 6 tablespoons cream or milk, plus more if needed
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • Pinch of salt

1. Melt the chocolate over low heat in a double boiler or microwave; set aside to cool.

2. Use an electric mixer or a fork to cream the butter. Gradually work in about half the sugar, then add the melted, cooled chocolate. Add the rest of the sugar ½ cup at a time, alternating with the cream and beating well after each addition, until it’s as sweet as you like (you might not use all 4 cups).

3. Stir in the vanilla and salt. If the frosting is too thick to spread, add a little more cream, a teaspoon at a time. If it’s too thin (unlikely but possible), refrigerate; it will thicken as the butter hardens.

VANILLA BUTTERCREAM A classic for White Cake or Chocolate Cake: Omit the chocolate and use 2 teaspoons vanilla extract.

CARAMEL BUTTERCREAM Lightly sweet and wonderfully complex: Omit the chocolate and cream; decrease the confectioners’ sugar to 2 cups. When the butter-sugar mixture is smooth, beat in 1 cup Caramel Sauce; make sure it’s completely cooled or the frosting will melt. If you like salted caramel, increase the salt to 2 teaspoons.

ESPRESSO BUTTERCREAM There’s no better pairing for this than Chocolate Cake or Vanilla Latte Cake: Omit the chocolate; beat 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder with the butter until smooth.

GINGER BUTTERCREAM A spicy-sweet frosting for Pumpkin-Ginger Cake, Molasses-Spice Cake, or Carrot Cake: Omit the chocolate; beat 1 tablespoon ginger into the frosting with the vanilla and salt.

CINNAMON BUTTERCREAM Try it on Chocolate-Cinnamon Cake, in Gingerbread Whoopie Pies, or on Sweet Potato Coconut Cake: Omit the chocolate; beat 1 tablespoon cinnamon into the frosting with the vanilla and salt.

MAPLE BUTTERCREAM Thinner than typical buttercream; use this frosting for cakes like Pumpkin Spice Cake or spread it on Pancakes, Waffles, and French Toast: Substitute ½ cup maple syrup for half of confectioners’ sugar. Omit the vanilla and chocolate. Proceed with the recipe, then refrigerate the frosting to solidify it somewhat before using.

CITRUS BUTTERCREAM Try this using half butter and half cream cheese: Omit the cream and chocolate. Add 2 tablespoons fresh citrus juice and 1 tablespoon grated or minced zest or more to taste.

PISTACHIO BUTTERCREAM The perfect filling for Macarons or topping for Pistachio-Saffron Cake: Omit the chocolate. Beat ½ cup pistachio paste with the butter until smooth before adding the sugar. (To make your own pistachio paste, blend 1½ cups—about 6 ounces—roasted unsalted pistachios and ¼ cup sugar in a food processor until finely ground, then add 1 tablespoon vegetable oil and process until smooth, 5 to 10 minutes. Add another tablespoon of oil if necessary to loosen it up.)

PEANUT BUTTERCREAM For Chocolate Cupcakes or sandwiched between Oatmeal Cookies: Substitute ¼ cup smooth peanut butter for half the butter. Omit the chocolate (or don’t, if you love peanut butter cups). Proceed with the recipe; this may require more cream to get it to the right consistency.

Not-Too-Sweet Vanilla Buttercream

Makes: Enough for any cake

Time: 10 minutes

More about the butter and less about the sweet; it’s incredibly rich and creamy, so you may want to use a little less frosting than you usually would. Beyond cake, smear it on anything from quick breads, muffins, and scones to pancakes, waffles, and French toast. Any of the Chocolate Buttercream variations will work here too.

  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • 2½ cups confectioners’ sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons cream or milk, plus a little more if needed
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. Use an electric mixer or a fork to cream the butter. Gradually work in the sugar and salt, alternating with the cream and beating well after each addition.

2. Stir in the vanilla. If the frosting is too thick to spread, beat in a little more cream, a teaspoon at a time. If the buttercream is too thin, refrigerate; it will thicken as the butter hardens.

NOT-TOO-SWEET CHOCOLATE BUTTERCREAM A less intense chocolate frosting: Add 2 ounces melted and cooled unsweetened chocolate to the mixture after adding about half the sugar. Start with 2 tablespoons cream and add more if needed.

NOT-TOO-SWEET COFFEE BUTTERCREAM Great for cakes, as well as to spread on doughnuts or French toast: Omit the vanilla extract. Beat 1 to 2 shots freshly brewed espresso into the finished frosting.

NOT-TOO-SWEET HONEY BUTTERCREAM Wonderful with Honey-Spice Cake or Cardamom Cake: Substitute ½ cup honey for 1 cup of the confectioners’ sugar. Omit the vanilla. Start with 2 tablespoons cream and add more if needed.

How to Make Frosting in Advance—and How to Revive It

It’s practical to make frosting before you’re ready to use it: either while the cake is baking or as long as a few days ahead, to break up the work. You can freeze any high-fat frosting, like buttercreams or ganache, for at least a month, as long as it’s in an airtight container to keep it from absorbing freezer odors.

Whether it’s been refrigerated for a couple hours or frozen for a couple weeks, the process of reviving the original texture is largely the same. Thaw frozen frosting in the refrigerator overnight—don’t hurry this process. Gently soften refrigerated buttercream by letting it sit at room temperature for an hour or two, then beat it until it’s fluffy, adding cream or milk 1 tablespoon at a time if needed to loosen it up and bring it to your desired consistency.

Cream Cheese Frosting

Makes: Enough frosting and filling for one 9-inch layer cake or 2 dozen cupcakes

Time: About 15 minutes

A classic partner for Red Velvet Cake and Carrot Cake. Cream cheese lends tang and brightness that balances any sugary, heavily spiced, or dark-chocolaty cake. Try it as well with Gingerbread Whoopie Pies and Honey-Spice Cake.

  • 1 pound cream cheese
  • 1½ sticks butter, softened
  • 3 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. Use an electric mixer to beat the cream cheese until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the butter and beat until incorporated and smooth, another 3 minutes.

2. Continue to beat as you add the sugar gradually, about a cup at a time, until the frosting is smooth and well combined. Add the vanilla and beat until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.

LEMONY CREAM CHEESE FROSTING Cream cheese and citrus complement each other brilliantly: Beat 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest into the cream cheese and butter mixture. Add 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice with the vanilla.

PUMPKIN CREAM CHEESE FROSTING Pumpkin lovers will be smitten with this frosting paired with Pumpkin Spice Cake: Increase the sugar to 4½ cups. Whisk together 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves with the sugar. Fold ½ cup pumpkin purée into the finished frosting and beat until smooth. For a stiffer frosting, chill before using.

PEANUT BUTTER CREAM CHEESE FROSTING For a peanut butter cup turned cake, try this with classic Chocolate Cake: Reduce the butter to 4 tablespoons (½ stick) and add 1 cup smooth peanut butter.

Swiss Meringue Buttercream

Makes: Enough for any 9-inch layer cake or 2 dozen cupcakes

Time: 30 minutes

With its meringue base, this is even more velvety-smooth than the preceding American-style buttercreams but much lighter and less sweet. It’s so satiny it almost melts in your mouth, making a refined topping for any cake.

The key to achieving a good texture here is to be sure that all your ingredients are at room temperature; otherwise the buttercream might split. For more flavoring ideas, try the variations for Not-Too-Sweet Vanilla Buttercream and Chocolate Buttercream.

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 4 egg whites, at room temperature
  • Pinch of salt
  • 3 sticks butter, diced, at room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. Combine the sugar, egg whites, and salt in the top of a double boiler or in a metal or glass bowl that fits at least halfway into a saucepan (see illustration). Fill the bottom of the double boiler or the saucepan with water—not so much that it comes into contact with the bottom of the bowl—and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly, until the sugar is dissolved.

2. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or use an electric mixer, and beat on high until the mixture is stiff and glossy (it should just about double in size) and completely cooled. Reduce the speed to medium and add the bits of butter to the meringue a few at a time, waiting until each addition is fully incorporated before adding more. If the buttercream looks curdled or deflated, don’t panic—turn the speed up to high and wait until the butter is completely incorporated before adding more; it will smooth out. Add the vanilla and mix until combined. You can refrigerate the frosting in an airtight container for up to 1 week or freeze it for up to 2 months (thaw it in the fridge) or refrigerate a frosted cake for up to 3 days. No matter what, be sure the frosting has time to soften at room temperature before you eat it.

ITALIAN MERINGUE FROSTING Slightly stiffer and richer; use this for Lady Baltimore Cake and Genoise: In a large heatproof bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form, then set aside. Combine the sugar and ¼ cup water in a saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until the sugar is dissolved. Bring the sugar mixture to a boil and continue to cook until a candy thermometer reads 235°F. Slowly and very carefully drizzle the syrup into the egg whites, and keep beating until the bowl is cool to the touch, about 5 minutes. Add the butter and vanilla as directed.

STRAWBERRY SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM Use to frost Strawberry-Vanilla Cake; you can substitute any jam you like: Use a food processor or an electric mixer to beat 1½ cups seedless strawberry jam until smooth. Beat the jam into the finished frosting until just combined.

CHOCOLATE SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM This showcases a silkier side of chocolate frosting but is just as versatile as its American cousin: Fold 4 ounces melted bittersweet chocolate into the frosting at the end.

CARAMEL SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM The light texture keeps the toasty caramel flavor front and center: Decrease the sugar to ½ cup. After the butter is incorporated and the frosting is smooth, beat in 1 cup Caramel Sauce until totally combined. Increase the salt to 2 teaspoons for salted caramel frosting.

ALMOND SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM Subtle enough to pair well with Angel Food Cake and White Cake: Substitute ¾ teaspoon almond extract for the vanilla.

CARDAMOM SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM Perfect for any spice cake or chocolate cake: Beat 2 teaspoons ground cardamom into the frosting at the end.

LEMON SWISS MERINGUE BUTTERCREAM A delicate frosting for Lemon Chiffon Cake: Slowly add ¼ cup fresh lemon juice and 2 tablespoons grated lemon zest to the frosting at the end; beat until combined.

Frostings Family Tree

Frostings and glazes are the key to “finished” or festive desserts and a great way to take almost any baked good to the next level. The ingredients—butter, eggs, sugar, liquid, chocolate—inform the characteristics of the end results, whether creamy, fluffy, satiny, or rich. Each has its place in your baking.

BUTTERCREAM: Thick, creamy, and fluffy, with richness from butter

  • AMERICAN STYLE: Butter and confectioners’ sugar. Very sweet, easy to make
  • ✵ CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
  • EUROPEAN STYLE: Egg whites or yolks contribute a silky texture; not as sweet as American
  • ✵ SWISS MERINGUE: Egg whites, sugar, and butter
  • ✵ ITALIAN MERINGUE: Egg whites, hot sugar syrup, and butter
  • ✵ FRENCH MERINGUE: Egg yolks, hot sugar syrup, and butter

GANACHE: Chocolate and cream. Simple and customizable.

  • ✵ GANACHE FROSTING: Room temperature; dense and spreadable
  • ✵ RICH GANACHE GLAZE: Slightly warm; pour into a smooth, glossy layer
  • ✵ WHIPPED GANACHE: Whipped until light and fluffy

SUGAR-BASED: Sweet but not rich; no dairy, no fat.

  • ✵ SEVEN-MINUTE FROSTING: Egg whites and sugar; fluffy, marshmallow-like consistency
  • ✵ GLAZES: Liquid, and confectioners’ sugar
  • ✵ ROYAL ICING: Egg whites and sugar. A thin, smooth icing.

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Seven-Minute Frosting

Makes: Enough frosting and filling for one 9-inch layer cake or 2 dozen cupcakes

Time: 10 minutes

Billowing and perfectly white like a marshmallow cream or meringue, this cake topper is a lot of fun and a perfect accompaniment for White or Chocolate Cake and cupcakes. Sometimes called boiled icing in old cookbooks, it’s fluffy, glossy, and—best of all—comes together fast. Use it right away and don’t let it sit out too long, or it will harden and start to deflate.

  • 1¼ cups sugar
  • 2 egg whites
  • 2 tablespoons light corn syrup
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
  • Pinch of salt

1. Put the sugar, egg whites, and corn syrup in the top of a double boiler or in a large metal or glass bowl that fits at least halfway into a saucepan (see page 59). Bring about 2 inches of water to a boil in the bottom of the double boiler or in the saucepan.

2. Use an electric mixer to combine the egg mixture with ⅓ cup water; then put the bowl or double boiler over the boiling water while mixing on high speed. Continue mixing the egg mixture using a stirring motion with the beaters until it’s fluffy and white, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the vanilla if you’re using it and the salt, and continue beating until the frosting is cooled and holds stiff peaks. Use immediately.

Coconut Seven-Minute Frosting Decrease the vanilla extract to ½ teaspoon and stir 1 cup shredded sweetened coconut into the frosting at the end. If you don’t want to stir the coconut into the frosting, softly press it onto the surface of the cake or cupcakes after they’ve been frosted.

RASPBERRY SEVEN-MINUTE FROSTING A pretty pink frosting perfect for a celebration: Substitute ¼ cup raspberry jam (preferably seedless) for the corn syrup and 2 tablespoons of the sugar.

BRÛLéED SEVEN-MINUTE FROSTING This gets the same beautiful caramelized edges as a toasted marshmallow or baked meringue. It’s easiest to do with a kitchen torch, but an oven works too: Use a kitchen torch to toast the frosting on a cake, cupcake, or pie by moving the flame continuously in small circles over the frosting until it turns golden brown. If you don’t have one, heat your broiler and place the oven rack so that the top edge of frosting will be a few inches away from the heating element (this will vary depending on the size of your cake). Toast the frosted dessert, watching closely, for a couple of minutes, until the tips are golden brown.

Using a Pastry Bag

A pastry bag is nothing more than a sturdy plastic bag with a tapered end that gives you control as you pipe frosting, icing, or dough through it. Regular zipper bags are a bit flimsier but do the job, and the process is the same. Either way, you can pipe directly from the bag or add a metal pastry tip—star, round, or flat—to pipe specific shapes. If you’re piping something like Royal Icing and want very precise lines, just cut a very small hole from the bag.

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STEP 1
If you are using a pastry tip, put it in the bottom of the pastry bag and push it down until it’s securely lodged in the corner of the bag. (If using a zipper bag, cut a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the pastry tip.) Fold the bag’s wide opening over the sides.

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STEP 2
Spoon your filling or frosting into the bag. Take care not to overstuff—you can always add more later.

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STEP 3
Unfold the sides. If you are using a zipper bag and no pastry tip, snip the corner where you will be piping. The smaller your cut, the finer and more precise your piping will be.

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STEP 4
Twist the top of the bag gently to squeeze everything toward the bottom and eliminate any air bubbles. It helps to do this over a plate or the sink—the first few pipes are usually a bit messy.

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STEP 5
Hold the bag in the palm of one hand so that your hand is keeping the twisted end securely closed and squeeze with even pressure; use the other hand to steady and support the bottom of the bag. Squeeze just enough frosting or dough out of the bag to control the shape of your work; adjust your position to maintain pressure and keep the flow steady. Pull up gently to create a decorative peak if you like. Refill the bag as needed.

Quick Fudge Frosting

Makes: Enough for any 9-inch layer cake or 2 dozen cupcakes

Time: 10 minutes

Use this as a thick, rich frosting for Chocolate Cake or let it set and eat it like candy. Sift the confectioners’ sugar if you want the smoothest texture.

  • 1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk
  • 8 ounces dark chocolate, chopped (about 1½ cups)
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
  • Butter for greasing (optional)

1. Put the milk in a medium saucepan or microwave-safe bowl. Warm gently, over low heat or in the microwave in 30-second increments, until hot. Stir in the chocolate and vanilla and stir gently until the chocolate is fully melted, then beat in the sugar. If the texture is too loose, put the bowl in the refrigerator until firmed up enough to use as frosting.

2. To eat the fudge as candy, grease a square baking dish and line it with parchment paper. Pour in the fudge and freeze until set. Cut the fudge into 1-inch squares, layer the squares with parchment paper in a container, and store in the refrigerator or freezer for about a week.

Lemon Glaze

Makes: Enough for any cake

Time: 10 minutes

The perfect something extra for all kinds of desserts, from cakes to cookies to quick breads; see the list on page 568 to brainstorm all the things that are even better with a little glaze. You can replace the lemon with nearly any other citrus. For a thicker glaze that can be spread on cookies, decrease the total amount of lemon juice and water by a tablespoon or two.

  • 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, plus more as needed
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
  • 3 cups confectioners’ sugar, plus more as needed

Combine the lemon zest and juice, ¼ cup water, the vanilla if you’re using it, and the sugar and beat until combined and smooth; it should be about the consistency of thick maple syrup—just pourable. Adjust the consistency by adding a little more juice or a little more sugar. Use immediately or store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

VANILLA GLAZE An all-purpose sweet but simple glaze: Substitute ½ cup milk for the lemon juice and water and omit the lemon zest. Increase the vanilla to 2 teaspoons.

ORANGE GLAZE A milder citrus that pairs easily with a variety of cakes and quick breads: Substitute orange zest for the lemon zest and ½ cup orange juice for the lemon juice and water.

CREAMY LEMON GLAZE A touch of cream and some butter make for a richer glaze: Substitute ¼ cup cream for the water and add 3 tablespoons very soft butter. Whisk until smooth and glossy.

CINNAMON GLAZE Substitute ¾ cup milk for the lemon juice and water and 1½ teaspoon ground cinnamon for the zest. Omit the vanilla.

GINGER GLAZE Follow the previous variation, using ground ginger instead of cinnamon.

COCONUT GLAZE Drizzle this over Tropical Banana Bread or Coconut Layer Cake: Substitute ½ cup coconut milk for the lemon juice and water and ¼ cup shredded unsweetened coconut for the zest. Omit the vanilla.

MAPLE GLAZE A rich, sugary glaze for doughnuts or Maple-Cinnamon Scones: Substitute maple syrup for the lemon juice and milk for the water. Omit the lemon zest and vanilla.

MOCHA GLAZE A perfect pairing for Coffee Cake: Substitute ½ cup freshly brewed coffee for the lemon juice and water and add 1 ounce melted semisweet or bittersweet chocolate or 3 tablespoons cocoa powder. Omit the zest.

Jam Glaze

Makes: Enough for any cake

Time: 15 minutes

This is the easiest glaze recipe of them all, fantastic not just for its fruit flavor but also for the extra punch of color and sheen that it adds to fruit desserts. Simply thin jam with water and tune the flavor with spices, liqueur, or extracts as you like.

  • 1 cup Fruit Jam or preserves

Put the jam and 1 cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a low bubble and cook to a syrupy consistency, 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside to cool; use immediately or store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

APRICOT-VANILLA JAM GLAZE A bright, elegant pairing for most baked goods, including White Cake: Use apricot jam and add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.

RASPBERRY JAM GLAZE Use this technique for whichever berry jam you like—great with Jam Spice Bread or Ricotta Scones: Make the glaze as directed. Strain the seeds from the glaze while it’s still warm if you like.

CHERRY-PORT JAM GLAZE A seriously decadent adult treat—especially on Chocolate Cake: Use cherry jam; in a small saucepan, reduce 1 cup port wine by half, then add ½ cup water and the jam. Proceed as instructed.

Orange-Ginger Jam Glaze Sweet and spicy: Use Orange Marmalade and add 1 teaspoon ginger.

5 Best Uses for Glazes

Glaze is a sleeper sauce—if you’ve never used it with your baked goods, you might not think to add it. But try it once and you’ll get addicted to its versatility:

  • Any doughnut or fritter recipe
  • Layer cakes with filling between the layers, in lieu of the frosting on top
  • Classic Pound Cake or Chocolate-Sour Cream Pound Cake; try adding a cake soak first for a doubly rich result
  • Quick breads and scones, for a little extra sweetness at breakfast
  • Any refrigerator cookie recipe

Caramel Glaze

Makes: Enough for any cake

Time: 10 minutes

Because it’s made with brown sugar, this has a warm, butterscotchlike flavor that enhances and lends a little complexity to whatever it touches.

  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
  • ¾ cup cream
  • ½ cup packed brown sugar
  • 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the cream, brown sugar, corn syrup, and salt and stir just until the mixture is smooth and fluid; it should still be pretty thin. Remove from the heat and add the vanilla if you’re using it. Let cool for a few minutes before adding to desserts.

Royal Icing

Makes: About 3½ cups

Time: 10 minutes

This is the classic frosting for decorating sugar cookies—it’s glossy, holds its shape when piped into letters or shapes from a pastry bag, hardens nicely, and is easy to color. For a looser frosting, add a teaspoon of milk or water at a time until you get the consistency you like; to make the frosting even thicker for writing, fold in ¼ to ½ cup more sugar. If you prefer not to use raw egg whites, replace them with 6 tablespoons powdered egg whites mixed with ½ cup water.

  • 3 egg whites
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3¾ cups confectioners’ sugar (about one 1-pound box)

Use an electric mixer to beat together the egg whites, salt, and vanilla until frothy. Continue to mix on low speed and gradually add the confectioners’ sugar until combined. Increase the speed to medium-high and continue to whip the mixture until stiff, glossy peaks form, about 7 minutes.

LEMON ROYAL ICING Substitute 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice for the vanilla.

The Icing on the Cake

Once you’ve frosted your cake, there are lots of ways to embellish it:

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The simplest way to decorate a frosted cake: Use the back of a small spoon or a butter knife to make swirls in the frosting.

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Piped frosting is simple and impressive, and you don’t need much more than a zipper bag: fill it with frosting (tinted with food coloring if you like), cut a small snip in one corner, and pipe words or doodles. The smaller you cut the hole, the more precision you’ll have, but practice on parchment paper first to get a feel for the technique.

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Pastry tips give more precise results and let you pipe different shapes. Round tips are good for writing, doodling, or making small uniform dots; use star tips for borders or pipe spirals to make rosettes.

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Try piping thin, parallel stripes of a visually contrasting sauce—like Chocolate Ganache, Fruit Sauce, Caramel Sauce, or peanut butter—over the frosting, then dragging a knife or skewer perpendicular to the stripes to make a pretty abstract design.

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Decorate the top of the cake with sliced fresh fruit, strewn haphazardly or, if you prefer, arranged in a simple pattern.

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Coat the top or sides of the cake with sliced toasted almonds, chopped toasted nuts, toasted shredded unsweetened coconut, shaved chocolate, sprinkles, small candies, or cookie crumbs. Use your hands to gently pat it into the frosting.

Cake Soaks and Fillings

If frostings and glazes are responsible for luring people in, soaks and fillings are responsible for leaving a lasting impression. Cake soaks are stealthy—they leave no visible trace but create an irresistibly moist and tender texture. Use them to add dimension and bold flavor to a dessert or let them stay in the background as subtle enhancers. There’s no shortage of ways to play around with them.

Nearly any thick sauce can serve as a filling—that special surprise hiding between the layers of a cake, at the center of a pastry, or sandwiched between two cookies. Filling is an awesome way to make any dessert more special or unique, acting as a complement or accent to the main event. Coconut-Pecan Filling and Frangipane are two of the most distinctive, but look to the rest of this chapter for more ideas. Here are some of my favorites:

  • Chocolate Ganache
  • Caramel Sauce
  • Fruit Jam
  • Vanilla Pastry Cream
  • Lemon Curd
  • Butterscotch Sauce
  • Dulce de Leche
  • Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread

Simple Syrup

Vanilla Cake Soak

Coconut-Pecan Filling

Frangipane (Almond Cream)

Simple Syrup

Makes: 2 cups

Time: 10 minutes

Simple syrup is aptly named. All it requires is sugar, water, and some stove time. The result is an easy way to add sweetness to sorbets, granitas, iced drinks and cocktails, and Macerated Fruit. Or use it as a neutrally flavored cake soak (see Vanilla Cake Soak). This is simple syrup in its purest form, but see the list on page 557 for flavoring ideas. For a richer, more potent syrup, decrease the water to 1 or 1½ cups.

  • 2 cups sugar

Combine the sugar with 2 cups water in a small saucepan; bring to a boil and cook until the sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally. Set aside and cool to room temperature. Use immediately or store in a clean container or jar, covered, in the fridge for up to 6 months.

Vanilla Cake Soak

Makes: Enough for any sheet cake or round layer cake

Time: 10 minutes

A cake soak not only enhances the flavor of any cake; it also changes the texture and extends its shelf life. The process of the cake steeping in the soak turns it into something almost like a structured pudding. It’s best to use a real vanilla bean here for rich, oomphy flavor, but extract will do in a pinch.

  • ¼ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • ½ vanilla bean or 1½ tablespoons vanilla extract

1. Put ½ cup water, the sugar, and the butter in a small saucepan. If you’re using a vanilla bean, split it in half lengthwise and use a small knife to scrape the seeds into the butter mixture; add the pod. Cook at a slow bubble, whisking frequently, until the sugar is dissolved and the liquid is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. If you’re using vanilla extract, add it now. Let cool to room temperature, then remove and discard the pod.

2. Leave the cake in the pan (or return it if it was out cooling); pour the soak over the cake and let it sit for at least an hour. You can also poke holes in the cake with a fork before pouring in the soak. Alternatively, brush the soak over cake layers before frosting and stacking. (If you’re not using it immediately, put the soak in a jar and refrigerate for a day or two; bring to room temperature before using.)

RICH VANILLA CAKE SOAK A more intense, robust flavor. Substitute cream, half-and-half, or milk for the water. Use 2 tablespoons sugar and add a pinch of salt.

LEMON CAKE SOAK Delicious on Lemon-Poppy Bread: Omit the vanilla bean. Use only ¼ cup water and add ¼ cup fresh lemon juice once you remove it from the heat.

BOOZY CAKE SOAK For adults only; try this on Boozy Applesauce Cake, Olive Oil Cake, or Orange Grand Marnier Cake: Use ¼ cup water and ¼ cup bourbon or Calvados, whiskey, rum, brandy, cognac, limoncello, Cointreau, or any compatible liquor. If you like, you can bring the mixture to a boil, then continue to simmer for about 5 minutes, until the liquid reduces to a thin syrupy consistency and the alcohol has cooked out.

VANILLA-BROWN SUGAR CAKE SOAK For a hint of caramel on Brown Butter Genoise or Brown Sugar Applesauce Cake: Substitute brown sugar for the granulated sugar.

COFFEE-CINNAMON CAKE SOAK The perfect soak for an after-dinner or brunch treat; use it on Chocolate-Cinnamon Cake, Honey-Spice Cake, or Vanilla Latte Cake: Substitute freshly brewed strong coffee for the water. Omit the vanilla bean and add 1 teaspoon cinnamon. In Step 1, combine the sugar, butter, and cinnamon; cook and let sit, then add the coffee.

ORANGE CAKE SOAK Perfect on Olive Oil Cake and Chocolate-Ricotta Pound Cake with Orange: Substitute fresh orange juice for the water and add 1 tablespoon grated orange zest.

HONEY CAKE SOAK A natural pairing with Honey-Spice Cake: Substitute honey for the sugar. Omit the vanilla.

COCONUT-PINEAPPLE CAKE SOAK Tropical and “creamy” from the coconut milk; add a splash of rum if you like. Pour it on top of Coconut Oil Cake: Substitute ¼ cup coconut milk and ¼ cup pineapple juice for the water. Omit the vanilla.

Coconut-Pecan Filling

Makes: About 4 cups

Time: 20 minutes

German Chocolate Cake is famous for this fluffy, rich, coconut- and pecan-laden filling between layers, but it’s just as welcome as a frosting or drizzle on many other cakes, from Angel Food to Honey-Spice Cake. If it becomes too soft, stick it in the refrigerator for a bit before using. When applying it to the cake, try not to pat it down too much or you’ll lose its rustic charm.

  • 1 cup cream
  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 2 cups shredded sweetened coconut
  • 1½ cups finely chopped toasted pecans

1. Combine the cream, butter, sugar, and vanilla in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring, until the butter is melted and the mixture is combined.

2. In a medium bowl, start beating the egg yolks with a whisk or an electric mixer and keep beating as you incorporate a little of the warm cream mixture. Pour the yolk mixture back into the saucepan and continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes.

3. Take the saucepan off the heat and mix in the shredded coconut and pecans. Let cool completely. You can refrigerate in an airtight container for 1 week.

Frangipane (Almond Cream)

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 5 minutes

Despite its name, this has no cream in it—we have eggs and butter to thank for its velvety texture. It’s bursting with rich almond flavor, making a perfect filling for Croissants, Galette des Rois, and many pies. Unlike many fillings, this one is always baked, usually into the center of pastries or tarts. It’s spreadable at room temperature; chilled, it thickens up but stays loose enough to work with. And don’t be shy about swapping in other nut flours—pistachios, hazelnuts, and walnuts all make for phenomenal variations.

  • 1 cup almond flour (see page 15)
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 7 tablespoons butter, at room temperature
  • 2 large eggs
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon almond extract
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour if necessary

Use a food processor to pulse together the almond flour, sugar, butter, eggs, salt, and almond extract until combined. It should be a soft but thick paste; if it’s runny, add the flour and mix until it’s just incorporated.

The Basics of Fruit Sauces

Puréed fruit, all by itself, makes a light and delicious sauce. Both raw and cooked fruit make excellent purées, and both are easy to prepare with nearly any fruit, from berries to peaches, melons to apples. Cook fruit long enough and it will start to “purée” itself: As the liquid cooks out, it becomes syrupy or jammy and its flavors condense, as in Fruit Jam or Apple Butter.

The basic techniques you’ll use to make any of these recipes are excellent ways to make the most of good produce year-round, and the sauces themselves run such a wide range that they can accompany nearly any recipe in this book. They can liven up the richest, densest desserts—like a puddle of tart raspberry sauce with Flourless Chocolate Cake—yet are delicate enough to go with Angel Food Cake; you can find them at breakfast or over ice cream.

PURÉEING FRUIT

The best tool for puréeing fruit is a blender: It’s quick and makes a smooth (if not always velvety) purée. The food processor is equally quick and purées soft or cooked fruit like a dream, although the results with hard fruit like raw apples aren’t quite as smooth as they would be with a blender. The third option is the hand method; use a fork or potato masher—this works well only for cooked or very soft fruit and is more time-consuming.

Obviously, you want to first remove large pits, seeds, thick or tough skin, stems, and other inedible bits. Whichever method you use, you may also press the purée through a fine-mesh strainer; it’s necessary to get rid of any tiny seeds or errant fibers and optional if you just want to remove unwanted bits of flesh or skin. You will probably need to use a wooden spoon or the back of a ladle to press as much as you can from the pulp; be sure to scrape the underside of the strainer to remove every last drop of purée. What you get will be blissfully smooth.

Occasionally you’ll want to add liquid to the purée—for flavoring, sweetness, or simply if the fruit is hard and needs some liquid to start blending. Fruit juice, water, cream, and lemon or lime juice are good options, depending on the type of fruit you’re using and your plans for the sauce. If you’re adding liquid only for the purpose of getting the purée going, add it by the tablespoonful so you don’t add more than you need and dilute the fruit flavor.

Purées made from raw apples, pears, and bananas will brown quickly; to minimize this, don’t make them too far in advance and always add a squeeze or two of lemon or lime juice. To be really careful, coat the fruit and cutting board in the citrus juice before chopping and add a few drops after each cut. There will still be some browning, but this keeps it to a minimum.

Recipes

Fruit Sauce, Two Ways

Fruit Compote

Fruit Jam

Orange Marmalade

Apple Butter

Fruit Sauce, Two Ways

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 5 to 10 minutes

Recipes don’t get much easier than fruit sauce. The first method requires practically no work at all and gives you a pure flavor with a very saucy consistency; it works best with soft fruits and berries. The second yields a thicker, more luxurious sauce and is great with apples and pears.

Raw Fruit Method:

  • 2 cups berries or other soft ripe fruit—peaches, cherries, nectarines, mangoes, etc.—picked over, pitted, and/or peeled as necessary
  • Confectioners’ sugar
  • A little fresh orange or lemon juice or fruity white wine if needed

1. Purée the fruit in a blender. If you’re using fruit with tiny seeds, like raspberries or blackberries, or tough fibers like mangoes, pass the purée through a sieve, using a wooden spoon or the back of a ladle to press down on the pulp and extract as much purée as possible.

2. Add confectioners’ sugar to taste. If necessary, thin with a little water, orange juice, lemon juice, or fruity white wine. Use immediately or refrigerate for a day or two.

Cooked Fruit Method:

  • ½ cup sugar
  • 3 tablespoons butter
  • 2 cups any ripe fruit—apples, pears, bananas, peaches, cherries, nectarines, berries, mangoes, melons, pumpkins, etc.—picked over, pitted, and/or peeled as necessary

1. Combine ½ cup water with the sugar and butter in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over medium-high heat and cook, shaking and stirring, until the mixture is thick and syrupy but not browned.

2. Toss in the fruit and cook over low heat until the fruit begins to break up and release its juices, about 2 minutes for berries, longer for other fruit (some fruits, like apples, may also require a little more water). Press the fruit through a fine-mesh strainer or run it through a food mill to purée and remove any skins or seeds. Serve warm or at room temperature. This sauce keeps well, refrigerated, for up to a week.

RUSTIC FRUIT SAUCE Make it easy on yourself—unrefined is beautiful and tasty too. Cook the fruit as directed in the second method, but don’t bother pressing it through a sieve or puréeing it.

MELBA SAUCE Simmer 2 cups fresh or thawed frozen raspberries in a medium saucepan until soft and broken up. Put them through a fine sieve, pressing to extract as much juice as possible. Discard the seeds and pulp and add enough water to the juice to make ¾ cup. Return the juice to the saucepan and add ⅔ cup red currant jelly, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, ½ teaspoon grated lemon zest, and the sugar. Omit the butter. Simmer until the sugar is dissolved and the sauce is smooth.

Fruit Compote

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 10 to 20 minutes

Fruit compote is a fancy way of saying “stewed fruit.” This is incredibly easy and goes with everything, from pancakes and waffles (pages 98-117) to cakes like Olive Oil Cake; or serve as the main dessert with a dollop of Whipped Cream or vanilla ice cream. You can microwave the fruit if you prefer. Try any flavor combination that appeals to you or one of the following suggestions or take inspiration for seasonings from 10 Jam Flavor Combinations.

  • 2½ cups berries or other fruit, chopped or sliced and peeled as needed
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • Pinch of salt

In a small saucepan, combine the fruit, sugar, salt, and a couple tablespoons of water. Cover tightly with a lid, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until some of the juice is released and the fruit begins to soften. This can take anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes, depending on the fruit. Let cool and transfer to a jar or airtight container; you can keep it in the fridge for about 2 weeks.

APPLE OR PEAR COMPOTE WITH RAISINS AND CINNAMON An autumn treat for toast or pancakes: Use sliced apples and pears and add ½ cup raisins and 1½ teaspoons cinnamon.

PLUM, STAR ANISE, AND BLACK PEPPER COMPOTE A complex flavor combination punctuated by a hint of black pepper: Use sliced plums and add 1 whole star anise and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

PINEAPPLE, LEMONGRASS, AND BASIL COMPOTE Incredibly vibrant and fresh: Use chopped pineapple and add 1 stalk of lemongrass, split, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil. Pick out the lemongrass before serving.

ORANGE-CRANBERRY SPICE COMPOTE I like this with Maple-Cranberry-Spice Cake: Use 1½ cups orange slices and 1 cup cranberries and add ½ teaspoon nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon cardamom, and ¼ teaspoon ground cloves.

PEACH, GINGER, AND MAPLE COMPOTE Maple lends a lovely caramel flavor to the compote: Use peach slices and add 1 teaspoon ground ginger or 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger. Substitute maple syrup for the sugar.

BLUEBERRY-LAVENDER COMPOTE This screams summer. Pair it with Strawberry-Vanilla Cake for a red, white, and blue dessert: Use blueberries and add 1 teaspoon chopped dried lavender.

STRAWBERRY, ROSE WATER, AND VANILLA COMPOTE A delicate flavor combination for a dainty dessert: Use chopped strawberries and add 1 tablespoon rose water and 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped.

RASPBERRY, THYME, AND HONEY COMPOTE Use raspberries and add 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves. Substitute honey for the sugar.

DRIED FRUIT COMPOTE Use what you have on hand: Chop dried fruit into ½-inch pieces to make 1¼ cups total; cover them in water and soak for 1 hour. Transfer the fruit and its soaking liquid to a small saucepan and add 2 more cups water. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer until soft and thickened, about 45 minutes. Remove from the heat, season as you like, and let cool.

Fruit Jam

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: About 45 minutes

You’ll be hard pressed to come up with a reason not to make your own jam with a method as simple as this. What little effort it does take is worth the satisfaction of spreading homemade jam on toast in the morning or tucking it in between the layers of a cake or inside a pillowy doughnut (page 127). See this chart for popular flavor combinations.

  • 1 pound fruit, peeled, pitted, and chopped as necessary
  • ¼ cup sugar, or more to taste
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, vinegar, booze, or other acidic liquid
  • Seasonings (optional; see this chart

1. Put the fruit in a medium saucepan over medium heat.

2. After a minute or so, add the sugar, juice, and seasonings if you’re using them.

3. Adjust the heat so that the mixture bubbles steadily, using a higher heat if the mixture looks too soupy; lower the heat if it seems dry. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick, 10 to 30 minutes. Taste as you go and add more sugar and/or seasonings as you like. Cool completely and refrigerate; it will thicken more as it cools.

4. Store in the refrigerator, where it will keep for at least a week. Freeze for longer storage. If necessary, remove any seasonings before using.

THICKER FRUIT JAM For fruit low in pectin, like blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, and peaches, adding pectin will yield a thicker jam in a shorter time; it also helps preserve the fruit’s natural flavor and color: Add 1 tablespoon pectin powder to the fruit with the sugar, seasoning, and juice.

CHIA SEED FRUIT JAM Chia seeds become incredibly gelatinous when you combine them with liquid, creating a jammy consistency with no extra effort for you: Replace the sugar with a tablespoon of honey (or more to taste). Add 2 tablespoons chia seeds after the fruit is removed from the heat.

Orange Marmalade

Makes: 5 to 6 cups

Time: About 2½ hours

Marmalade is jam made from any citrus fruit. Bitter oranges, like the Seville, are traditional, but feel free to use your favorite kind or play with the flavor by combining them: Grapefruit, blood orange, tangerine, lemon and lime, and kumquat are all fantastic—use about 1½ pounds. The process of breaking them down takes a while but requires little actual work. Fruit seeds are naturally high in pectin, so steeping them in the marmalade creates an extra-thick and luscious spread.

  • 4 large oranges, thinly sliced with skin
  • 1 lemon, thinly sliced with skin
  • Pinch of salt
  • 6 cups sugar

1. Pick the seeds out of the fruit slices and tie up the seeds securely in cheesecloth. Place the seed pouch, the orange and lemon slices and their juices, and the salt in a large pot. Add 8 cups water and bring to a boil, stirring often. Reduce to a simmer and continue to cook until the orange peels are soft and you can begin to see through them to the pith, about 45 minutes.

2. Add the sugar and bring the mixture back to a boil, stirring to combine. Reduce the heat to a slow boil and cook until the sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove the seed pouch and discard.

3. Continue to cook the marmalade until it reaches 220°F. To test that the marmalade jelled properly, spoon a small amount onto a chilled plate and put the plate in the freezer until it’s cold. Push your finger against the chilled marmalade. If it starts to wrinkle, it’s done. If it doesn’t and is still runny, it’s not ready; continue to cook, checking it every 5 minutes or so for doneness. Store in a jar or airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month. You can also freeze it in an airtight container for a few months, then thaw in the fridge.

GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE Substitute 3 large grapefruit for the oranges and increase the sugar to 7 cups.

TANGERINE MARMALADE These tiny fruits are packed with flavor: Substitute 8 tangerines for the oranges.

LEMON-LIME MARMALADE Marmalade with some zing: Substitute 4 lemons and 4 limes for the oranges. Omit the additional lemon.

KUMQUAT MARMALADE These sweet-and-sour fruit are perfect for preserves: Substitute 1½ pounds kumquats for the oranges.

Macerated Fruit: The Easiest Fruit Sauce

Macerating is essentially marinating fruit by adding liquid and letting it soften on its own. It’s the most hands-off way to prepare fruit; you get the wonderful rustic texture and syrupy juices of a cooked sauce but the vibrant flavors of raw fruit. Serve it over ice cream, yogurt, pancakes, waffles, French toast, biscuits, or scones; with a dollop of Whipped Cream, it’s unbeatable.

Try to start with fruit that’s in season and at peak ripeness; quality goes a long way with such a simple method. Mix 2½ cups chopped fresh fruit and any seasonings with a liquid of your choice, bearing in mind that the fruit will absorb its flavor. Simple Syrup is a safe bet, but you can also use fruit juice, wine or brandy, or even water; figure ½ cup per pound of fruit and add sugar to taste. If the fruit is especially juicy, you can skip the added liquid and simply sprinkle it with 2 to 3 tablespoons sugar, which draws out the fruit’s juices so they do the marinating. Cover and set aside at room temperature or in the fridge, stirring every once in a while. Firm fruit can take up to a day to soften fully while soft fruit can take as little as 15 to 20 minutes. If, when the fruit is ready to eat, there is still liquid in the bowl, you can keep it or discard it as you please.

Apple Butter

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: About 3½ hours, largely unattended

Apple butter contains no butter at all, but it behaves like it: it’s luscious and creamy, perfect for spreading and tempting to eat straight-up with a spoon. Use it as a spread for toast and biscuits; top pancakes with it; swirl it into oatmeal or yogurt. Simmering the apples in cider boosts the flavor, but water is fine too.

  • 3 pounds apples (a combination of types is best), peeled, cored, and chopped
  • ¾ cup packed brown sugar
  • 1½ cups apple cider or water
  • Pinch of salt
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon cardamom
  • ¼ teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Heat the oven to 300°F. In a large ovenproof pot or Dutch oven, bring the apples, sugar, cider, and salt to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the apples are soft and the liquid is reduced, 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the spices and vanilla. In batches, use a blender to purée the apples until smooth, then return them to the pot and place it in the oven. Bake, uncovered, until thick, reduced, and deeply golden, about 3 hours. Cooking time depends on the variety of apple you use, so be sure to check on the apple butter every 30 minutes and give it a stir. Let cool completely before transferring to an airtight container. Refrigerate for up to a week or freeze.

GINGERY-PEAR BUTTER Substitute peeled and chopped pears for the apples and 2 teaspoons ground ginger for the cinnamon. Omit the cardamom.

SLOW-COOKER APPLE BUTTER A low-maintenance treat: In a bowl, combine the sugar, salt, and spices. Toss the apples gently in the sugar mixture, then transfer them to a slow cooker; omit the apple cider. Cook on low for about 10 hours. Stir in the vanilla and smash any big chunks of apples in the pot. Cook for another 2 hours, then use a blender to purée the apples in batches.

10 Jam Flavor Combinations

Good fruit speaks for itself and needs little else in terms of flavor, but that doesn’t mean a little boost is unwelcome. Below, some of my favorite fruit flavor combos—some classic, some a little more unusual—so that you can make your own stellar jam. Pick and choose from each column to customize the flavor.

FRUIT: Summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, or a combination)

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar or honey

ACID: Lemon juice

SEASONINGS: 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest

FRUIT: Summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, or a combination)

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar

ACID: Balsamic vinegar

SEASONINGS: 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme or tarragon leaves

FRUIT: Summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, or a combination)

SWEETENER: Honey

ACID: Orange liqueur, like Grand Marnier

SEASONINGS

FRUIT: Summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, or a combination)

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar

ACID: Lemon juice

SEASONINGS: 1 tablespoon rose water

FRUIT: Rhubarb

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar

ACID: Orange juice

SEASONINGS: 1 tablespoon grated orange zest

FRUIT: Peaches or cherries

SWEETENER: Brown sugar

ACID: Bourbon

SEASONINGS: 1 teaspoon cinnamon and/or ½ teaspoon almond extract

FRUIT: Peaches or cherries

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar

ACID: Lemon juice

SEASONINGS: 2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves

FRUIT: Cranberries

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar or maple syrup

ACID: Orange juice or cider vinegar

SEASONINGS: ½ teaspoon each cinnamon and nutmeg

FRUIT: Fig

SWEETENER: Honey

ACID: Balsamic vinegar

SEASONINGS: Seeds from a vanilla bean

FRUIT: Mango

SWEETENER: Granulated sugar or honey

ACID: Lime juice

SEASONINGS: 1 tablespoon grated lime zest

Custard Sauces

The magic of a custard sauce—its incomparable richness and mild, warm flavor—is thanks in large part to the eggs. Cooked gently with cream and sugar, the sauce becomes velvety and a perfect vehicle for all kinds of flavors, particularly with rich doughs and cakes like Cream Puffs, shortbread, and Chocolate Cake. But you have to pay attention: If left alone too long or cooked over heat that’s too high, the eggs will scramble. Here are a few tips for custard success:

  • Always err on the side of lower heat. If heated too quickly, custard will burn, separate, or curdle. Be patient.
  • Watch it constantly and whisk often. This not only prevents the bottom from burning but also gives you a better sense of how the sauce is progressing as it thickens on the stove.
  • Strain the finished product to eliminate any small egg curds. Even the most careful custard makers get them.

Vanilla Pastry Cream

Crème Anglaise (Custard Sauce)

Lemon Curd

Zabaglione (Sabayon)

Vanilla Pastry Cream

Makes: About 2½ cups

Time: 20 minutes

A wonderful filling for Cream Puffs, tarts (page 292), and many other desserts like Mille Crêpe Cake and Boston Cream Pie. When cooled, it’s stiffer than pudding (you can pipe it quite easily into tarts and pastries), but the consistency and flavor are more delicate and especially silky. You’d also do well to sneak it into the middle of a layer cake for a creamy surprise. Using all egg yolks will yield a richer cream.

  • ⅔ cup sugar
  • ¼ cup cornstarch
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 eggs or 4 yolks
  • 2 cups cream, half-and-half, or whole milk
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1. In a small saucepan, combine the sugar with the cornstarch and salt. Mix together the eggs or yolks and the cream. Whisk the cream-egg mixture into the sugar-cornstarch mixture over medium heat. At first, whisk occasionally to minimize the lumps. Then whisk almost constantly until the mixture just begins to boil and thickens, about 10 minutes.

2. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and continue to cook until it coats the back of a spoon; when you draw your finger through this coating, the resulting line will hold its shape (see illustration). Stir in the butter and vanilla, strain through a fine-mesh sieve, and set aside. Cool the pastry cream to room temperature before using (you can refrigerate it for a few hours, topped directly with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming). This sauce can be prepared 1 to 2 days before you plan to use it.

CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM For filling Vanilla Whoopie Pies or Chocolate Cake: Add 2 ounces chopped semisweet chocolate to the cream mixture as it cooks.

COFFEE PASTRY CREAM Unbelievable in Cream Puffs topped with a drizzle of Chocolate Ganache: Add 2 shots freshly brewed espresso or 1 tablespoon instant espresso powder to the cream mixture as it cooks.

ALMOND PASTRY CREAM Fold this into Kahlúa Almond Cake to boost the nutty flavor. Use almond extract instead of vanilla.

BOOZY PASTRY CREAM A wonderful complement for sponge and jelly-roll cakes. Omit the vanilla: Add 2 tablespoons bourbon, rum, Scotch, or port wine to the finished hot cream mixture.

Crème Anglaise (Custard Sauce)

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 15 to 30 minutes

This creamy vanilla custard sauce is an classic for accompanying cakes, poached fruit, and much more. It’s thinner than pastry cream, so it’s a big treat to serve Vanilla Meringues or Chocolate Cake in a puddle of it. It can also be used as a base for ice cream (pages 309-315) or Crème Brûlée, layered in a parfait, or ladled over beignets or pie.

  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 cups milk
  • 4 egg yolks
  • ½ cup sugar

1. If you’re using the vanilla bean, heat the milk and the bean together in a small saucepan until the milk steams. Remove from the heat, cover, and let sit for 15 minutes. Remove the bean and scrape the seeds into the milk. If you’re not using the bean, just heat the milk.

2. Once the milk has cooled to almost room temperature, add the remaining ingredients and whisk well to combine. Cook over medium heat, whisking almost constantly, until the mixture thickens and reaches 175° to 180°F. Don’t let it boil. (There will be a thick coating on the back of a spoon.)

3. While still hot, pour the sauce through a strainer and let cool a bit; stir in the vanilla extract if you’re using it. You can serve the sauce warm or chilled. It keeps, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

CHOCOLATE Crème ANGLAISE In Step 2, add ½ cup (about 3 ounces) chopped chocolate to the pot and let it melt as the mixture heats.

BOOZY Crème ANGLAISE An extra-indulgent treat: After straining the sauce, stir in 2 tablespoons whiskey, rum, or liqueur.

Almond Crème Anglaise Omit the vanilla bean. Put ¾ cup chopped almonds in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally until fragrant and beginning to toast, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and proceed with Step 2.

EGGNOG Crème ANGLAISE After straining the sauce, stir in 1 tablespoon dark rum, 1 tablespoon bourbon, 1 teaspoon nutmeg, and ½ teaspoon cinnamon.

Lemon Curd

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 15 to 30 minutes

Lemon curd is tangier than pastry cream, but it’s just as versatile and has the same luxurious, thick consistency. It brightens everything from Cinnamon Cake to Lemon Tart to Thumbprint Cookies. Fold with whipped cream to make a shortcut lemon mousse that’s great on its own or dolloped over other fruit-based desserts. And don’t stop at lemon—each of the following variations is equally delicious.

  • ¾ cup milk
  • 3 tablespoons grated lemon zest
  • ⅓ cup fresh lemon juice
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 1 stick butter
  • 1 cup sugar

1. Combine all the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking almost constantly, until the mixture thickens and reaches 175° to 180°F. Don’t let it boil. (There will be a thick coating on the back of a spoon.)

2. While still hot, pour the curd through a strainer and let cool a bit; you can serve it warm or chilled. In an airtight container, this will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

ORANGE CURD A softer, more subtle citrus: Substitute ¼ cup grated orange zest and ½ cup fresh orange juice for the lemon zest and juice.

LIME CURD Equally good, much more unexpected: Substitute lime zest and juice for the lemon zest and juice.

GRAPEFRUIT CURD A citrus to brighten cold winter months: Substitute grapefruit juice and zest for the lemon zest and juice.

MANGO CURD A wonderful tropical surprise inside of a cake, especially a Coconut Layer Cake: Instead of milk, purée 2 cups chopped mango with the sugar; substitute lime zest and 3 tablespoons lime juice for the lemon zest and juice and combine with the mango, yolks, and butter. Proceed with the recipe.

Zabaglione (Sabayon)

Makes: About ½ cup

Time: About 15 minutes

This warm, airy, wine-spiked dessert—somewhere between light sauce and egg-rich custard—is truly singular. No one would ever guess just how quick and easy it is to make. The key is to whisk constantly to incorporate as much air into the egg yolks as possible and to prevent burning. If you’d like to add a brighter flavor, squeeze a little lemon into the mix, to taste. Depending on the wine you choose, you may want to increase or decrease the sugar; in any case, make sure to use a wine you like to drink. Eat this alone or with fruit, spoon it into a trifle, or pair it with gelato.

  • 4 egg yolks
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • ¼ cup Marsala (or whatever wine you have on hand)

Bring a couple inches of water to a simmer in a small saucepan; do not boil. Whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, and salt in a glass or metal bowl large enough to sit on top of the pot. Whisk in the wine until foamy. Place the bowl over the pot to create a double boiler and continue to whisk until the custard is thick and puddinglike. Remove from the heat and continue to whisk until it cools slightly. Serve warm.

Other Sauces

Some of these may be new to you, while others are DIY versions of familiar staple sauces. Try them when you want to branch out: you may be surprised at how easy and gratifying it is to make Roasted Nut Butter or Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread and never go back to the store-bought versions. Butter sauces—from simply flavored Whipped Butter to the boozy Hard Sauce that melts over warm desserts—are such a treat that they deserve a spot in any baker’s arsenal. And it’s impossible to serve Marshmallow Sauce or Peanut Butter Sauce without eliciting smiles. Have fun with these.

Recipes

Rich Chocolate Sauce

Caramel Sauce

Butterscotch Sauce

Dulce de Leche

Whipped Butter

Hard Sauce

Orange Butter Sauce

Balsamic Syrup

Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread

Roasted Nut Butter

Speculaas Spread

Marshmallow Sauce

Peanut Butter Sauce

Rich Chocolate Sauce

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 15 minutes

More substantial than your average chocolate syrup, this rich sauce is thinner than ganache, so it can be drizzled over everything from cakes to pie to ice cream. See my favorite uses in the list below. Leave a jar in the fridge for mixing up the best chocolate milk anytime you like and see the Hot Fudge Sauce variation to bring the ice cream parlor into your own kitchen.

  • 4 ounces chocolate, chopped
  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
  • ¼ cup sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Combine the chocolate, butter, sugar, salt, and ¼ cup water in a small saucepan over very low heat. Cook, stirring, until the chocolate melts and the mixture is smooth.

2. Add the vanilla and serve immediately, keep warm over hot water until ready to serve, or refrigerate for up to a week and rewarm before using.

HOT FUDGE SAUCE This classic sauce turns chewy and fudgy when it hits the ice cream: After the chocolate has completely melted, add ⅓ cup corn syrup to the mixture. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low, and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until thick and shiny. Add the vanilla and serve hot. Or store for up to a week and reheat very gently (a double boiler is best) before serving.

10 Uses for Rich Chocolate Sauce

Homemade chocolate sauce adds rich cocoa flavor to nearly anything:

  • Stir it into a glass of milk (dairy or nondairy)—the more you use, the richer it will be.
  • Drizzle it or, even better, the Hot Fudge Sauce variation, over ice cream. Add a pinch of flaky salt for a refined dessert or make a sundae with fruit compote, chopped nuts, Whipped Cream, Caramel Sauce (this page), or more chopped chocolate.
  • Blend it into a milkshake.
  • Make an egg cream, a classic New York treat that’s like a lighter milkshake (and, deceptively, contains no egg): Combine ½ cup whole milk with ¼ cup chocolate sauce in a chilled glass. Top with 1 cup seltzer and stir to combine.
  • Make dessert for breakfast (or breakfast for dessert) by pouring it over pancakes, crêpes, waffles, or French toast (pages 98-120).
  • Drizzle it over Cream Puffs, Éclairs, or Profiteroles.
  • Pour it over fresh fruit: Raspberries, strawberries, bananas, and oranges are all excellent.
  • Salty and sweet: Dip pretzels or potato chips into it.
  • Use it to glaze a dense pound cake (pages 201 and 214).
  • Make a trifle with cubed cake, Whipped Cream, and your favorite fruits and sauces.

Caramel Sauce

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 20 minutes

It’s hard to beat the flavor of caramel: sweet, salty, nutty, and complex, with so many options to tweak the flavor. It’s a versatile topping on its own for almost every kind of dessert and also pairs beautifully with chocolate or any fruit; try it anytime you use ganache.

  • 1 cup sugar
  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
  • ½ cup cream
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract (optional)

1. Spread the sugar in an even layer in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Start cooking it over medium heat, resisting the urge to stir (which will cause the sugar to crystallize in hard clumps) but swirling occasionally to keep the sugar evenly distributed over the heat. It can be helpful to dip a clean pastry brush in water to brush down any sugar crystals clinging to the sides of the pan. The sugar will dissolve, bubble, and gradually darken; it can burn quickly, so keep a close eye on it. Cook until it’s a deep copper color, like an old penny. Use your nose here: It should have that telltale nutty caramel scent, but you must not let it burn.

2. When it’s the color you want, remove it from the heat and immediately whisk in the butter. Once it melts, add the cream; it will bubble up when you first add it, so be careful, since hot sugar is extraordinarily painful if it burns you. Stir in the salt and the vanilla if you’re using it. Let cool slightly before using or transfer to a container and refrigerate for up to a week or two.

BOOZY CARAMEL SAUCE For a boozy Apple Pie: Add 2 or 3 tablespoons liqueur in Step 2, after you’ve removed the pan from the heat.

SALTED CARAMEL SAUCE Drizzle it over Vanilla Ice Cream or Chocolate Cake: Add 1 tablespoon flaky sea salt or fleur de sel in Step 2.

COFFEE CARAMEL SAUCE Add 1 to 2 shots freshly brewed espresso at the end.

SPICED CARAMEL SAUCE Drizzle over Pecan Pie or Chocolate-Ginger Stout Cake: Add 2 teaspoons cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ginger, and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg with the vanilla.

CREAM CHEESE CARAMEL FROSTING A tasty pairing for Banana Cake: Make the Caramel Sauce and let it cool completely. Whip 1 pound softened cream cheese until fluffy and drizzle in the caramel until thoroughly mixed; thin with a little milk or cream as needed.

CARAMELIZED SUGAR Made of just sugar and water, this can be baked with custard for Flan or used as the starting point for caramel candies and countless other recipes; on its own, it becomes brittle, so you can use it as a crunchy candy coating or a handy “glue”: In Step 1, increase the sugar to 2 cups and pour ½ cup water over it. When it’s the color you want, remove it from the stove and use right away, as it will harden as it cools.

7 Ways to Flavor Any Dessert Sauce

The beauty of a sauce is that you can stir other flavorings into it with no fear of compromising consistency as you would with a baked recipe.

  • Ground spices, like cinnamon, cardamom, allspice, nutmeg, and star anise
  • Fragrant teas, like Earl Grey or rooibos (steep in the hot cream or other liquid for 10 minutes or so and strain before proceeding)
  • Freshly brewed espresso or instant espresso powder (try with any chocolate-based sauce)
  • Maple syrup
  • Any nut butter (pair with Rich Chocolate Sauce)
  • Citrus zest, grated or finely minced (orange is nice with Chocolate Ganache, or Butterscotch Sauce)
  • Minced candied ginger or grated fresh ginger (excellent in Raspberry Jam Glaze, or any other fruit sauce)

Butterscotch Sauce

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 10 minutes

A classic for its taste and simplicity; there’s no excuse not to jazz up every dessert with a drizzle.

  • ¾ cup cream
  • 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
  • ¾ cup packed brown sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract (optional)

1. Combine the cream and butter in a small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the butter melts.

2. Stir in the sugar and salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick and shiny and the sugar is dissolved, 5 to 10 minutes. Taste and add more sugar if you like, along with the vanilla if you’re using it. Use right away or refrigerate, well covered, for up to 1 week and rewarm before using.

MAPLE BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE Serve this with Bread Pudding or French Toast for an indulgent brunch: Reduce the cream to ½ cup and substitute maple syrup for the brown sugar. In Step 2, add an egg yolk along with the maple syrup. Proceed with the recipe. Keeps for up to 3 days.

BOURBON BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE Add 2 to 3 tablespoons bourbon after Step 2.

GINGER BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE Peel a knob of ginger and add it to the saucepan with the cream and butter. Feel free to slice the ginger knob in half lengthwise if it’s not completely submerged in the butter and cream mixture. Once the butter is melted, let the ginger continue to steep over low heat for 15 minutes. Remove the knob of ginger and proceed with the recipe.

Dulce de Leche

Makes: About 1 cup

Time: About 2 hours

The creamy, salty caramel flavor of dulce de leche is unforgettable and versatile. Pour on ice cream, sandwich between cookies, and spread between cake layers. You can eat it straight out of the jar too. For the best flavor, I use sea salt and a real vanilla bean. You can replace the vanilla bean with 1 tablespoon vanilla extract stirred in after cooking if need be.

  • 4 cups whole milk
  • 1¼ cups sugar
  • ¼ teaspoon sea salt
  • ¼ teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

1. Combine the milk, sugar, salt, and baking soda in a saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the pan and add the pod as well. Cook over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture comes to a boil; remove the vanilla pod. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, until thick and caramelized, 1 to 1½ hours. Whisk occasionally to prevent the sauce from sticking to the bottom of the pan and burning.

2. Remove the dulce de leche from the heat and transfer to a bowl or a jar to cool completely. (If the sauce does stick and burn on the bottom of the pan, pass it through a sieve before storing.) Store in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.

Oven Dulce de Leche A totally hands-off—and very cool—variation; sweetened condensed milk simply caramelizes in the oven but keeps its thick, creamy texture: Heat the oven to 425°F. Omit the milk, sugar, and baking soda. Pour one 14-ounce can of sweetened condensed milk into a pie plate or shallow baking dish. Stir in the sea salt and 1 tablespoon vanilla extract in lieu of the pod. Cover the pie plate in aluminum foil and place it in a water bath (see page 59). Bake for about 1 hour, or until it is thick and caramelized. Make sure the water never evaporates; add more if it runs low. Whisk until smooth.

Caramel vs. Butterscotch vs. Dulce de Leche

What do these three sauces have in common—besides being delicious? All three are made by cooking sugars until they caramelize and achieve similar shades of rich coppery brown, and have warm, nutty flavors. You could comfortably interchange them in most cases and everyone would likely be very happy.

Their differences lie in the ingredients and technique. Caramel is made by slowly melting granulated sugar, on its own or loosened up with a bit of water, until it’s a deep amber (see the recipe). Butterscotch uses brown sugar cooked down with butter for a flavor that’s sweeter, softer, and really perks up with a splash of vanilla. And for dulce de leche—which literally translates as “milk-sweet”—milk and sugar are cooked so low and slow that the milk sugars caramelize into a jammy, puddinglike sauce that’s dangerously easy to eat by the heaping spoonful.

Whipped Butter

Makes: 12 ounces butter, plus buttermilk

Time: 30 minutes

Homemade butter is a revelation—one of those kitchen miracles that never ceases to amaze. You end up with your own buttermilk as well as butter whose flavor is customized to your recipes or whims. Obviously, the better the cream you start with, the better your butter. This is best enjoyed as a condiment or spread; if you want to use homemade butter in a baking recipe, use the Firmer Butter variation and measure by weight to ensure the proportions stay the same.

  • 4 cups cream, at room temperature
  • Pinch of salt (optional)

1. Place a sieve in a large bowl and cover it with cheesecloth or clean paper towels; set aside.

2. Pour the cream into a large bowl. Whip the cream with an electric mixer on medium-high (using the whisk attachment if you’re using a stand mixer) until it forms stiff peaks. The cream will splatter quite a bit, so you may want to cover the bowl loosely with a towel or plastic wrap while you’re mixing. Continue whipping: The cream will become grainy before a mass of butter begins to form, separating itself from the buttermilk.

3. Pour the buttermilk through the cheesecloth and allow it to strain before dumping the butter into the strainer. Pick up the butter with the cheesecloth and knead and squeeze it to release any excess buttermilk into the bowl. Repeat until you’ve removed as much buttermilk from the butter as you can. Pour the buttermilk into a container and refrigerate for another use.

4. If you like, mix some salt into the butter, then place the butter in a container and store it in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks or in the freezer for several months.

FIRMER BUTTER Once the buttermilk is separated from the butter and stored in the refrigerator, rinse out the bowl and place the butter in it. Fill the bowl with ice water, then push down on the butter to release even more buttermilk; the water will become cloudy. Pour out the ice water and repeat this process until the water remains clear and the butter becomes firm. Store the butter in a jar fitted with a lid or roll it into a log using wax paper or parchment.

CULTURED BUTTER The night before you make the butter, combine the cream with ⅓ cup whole-milk yogurt, at room temperature. Whisk together, then cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm room in your house. The cream is done culturing when it is slightly thickened and foamy and it begins to smell tangy. Refrigerate the cream for an hour before proceeding with Step 2.

10 Add-Ins for Whipped Butter

Compound butter—a fancy name for butter with stuff mixed in—is a sublime treat on homemade breads (pages 389-448), scones and biscuits, quick breads, pancakes, and waffles (pages 98-117). As it melts, its seasoning infuses everything. Mix any of the following into softened butter:

  • Chopped fresh herbs, like rosemary, thyme, chives, or parsley, ¼ cup loosely packed
  • Honey, ¼ cup
  • Maple syrup, ¼ cup
  • Finely grated citrus zest, up to 3 tablespoons
  • Chopped dried lavender, 1 tablespoon
  • Crumbled or grated cheese, like cheddar, Gouda, or blue, up to ½ cup
  • Minced garlic, 2 tablespoons
  • Chopped anchovy fillets, 2 tablespoons
  • Capers, 2 tablespoons
  • Prepared horseradish, 2 tablespoons

Hard Sauce

Makes: Enough for any bundt cake, pie, or other warm dessert

Time: 10 minutes

Boozy and buttery, hard sauce (so called because you make it with hard liquor) is irresistible—you can dollop it over any warm dessert and watch it ooze as it melts. It’s fabulous with Bread Pudding, Gingerbread, pound cake, or any warm pie.

  • 1 stick butter, softened
  • 1⅓ cups confectioners’ sugar
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 tablespoons whiskey, brandy, or rum
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Use an electric mixer to beat the butter until light and fluffy. Continue to beat on low speed as you gradually add the sugar and salt; beat until well incorporated. Add the alcohol and vanilla and beat until well incorporated and smooth. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, for up to a week; bring to room temperature before serving.

ORANGE-BOURBON HARD SAUCE Spoon over Orange Grand Marnier Cake or Cranberry Slump: Mix 1 tablespoon grated orange zest into the sauce with 3 tablespoons bourbon.

COCONUT-RUM HARD SAUCE A natural pair for Sweet Rice and Coconut Cake or Coconut-Lime Pound Cake: Use dark rum and fold in ½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut.

BRANDY-SPICE HARD SAUCE Pour over Apple Pie or Vanilla Bread Pudding: Use brandy; swap the vanilla for 1 teaspoon cinnamon and ¼ teaspoon nutmeg.

RICH, THIN HARD SAUCE Substitute granulated sugar for the confectioners’ sugar. Cut the butter into chunks and melt it with the sugar and salt in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Once the sugar is dissolved, whisk 1 egg yolk into the butter mixture. Continue to stir until smooth and saucy, about 5 minutes. Remove the sauce from the heat, let cool slightly, then stir in the alcohol and vanilla.

Orange Butter Sauce

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: About 20 minutes

We associate Orange Butter Sauce with Crêpes Suzette, but it’s also delicious on Olive Oil Cake, Lady Baltimore Cake, fresh fruit, and piping-hot pancakes or waffles.

  • 2 sticks butter
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon grated orange zest
  • ¾ cup fresh orange juice
  • ¼ cup orange-flavored liqueur, like Grand Marnier

Combine the butter, sugar, orange zest, and orange juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, until the butter is melted and the mixture is golden and starts to thicken and caramelize. Remove the pan from the heat, add the liqueur, and then return it to the heat. Continue to whisk the sauce until it’s reduced and syrupy, about 10 minutes.

LEMON BUTTER SAUCE Switch up your citrus, then pour it over Olive Oil Cake: Substitute lemon zest for the orange zest and ½ cup lemon juice for the orange juice. Swap in limoncello for the orange liqueur.

LIME BUTTER SAUCE Try it over Sweet Rice and Coconut Cake or Coconut-Lime Pound Cake: Substitute 2 teaspoons lime zest for the orange zest and ½ cup lime juice for the orange juice. Swap in rum for the orange liqueur.

Balsamic Syrup

Makes: About 1 cup

Time: 15 minutes

Balsamic vinegar has a haunting, mysterious quality that makes it an exciting dessert topping. This syrup is delicious and unexpected served with fresh strawberries and Whipped Cream or drizzled over vanilla ice cream. Try it on Strawberry-Vanilla Cake or Raspberry-Olive Oil Torte for a dessert with a little more heft and complexity. Two cups of decent balsamic vinegar can get expensive; halve if you like: a little of this sauce goes a long way, and it keeps forever in the fridge.

  • 2 cups balsamic vinegar
  • ¼ cup sugar

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the vinegar and sugar. Bring to a soft boil, then boil, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain it, until the syrup is reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Remove the syrup from the heat and let cool to room temperature to thicken before using or storing.

RED WINE OR PORT REDUCTION Pure indulgence with Dense Flourless Chocolate Cake: Substitute red wine or port for the balsamic vinegar. Add 1 teaspoon cinnamon and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract.

Chocolate-Hazelnut Spread

Makes: About 3 cups

Time: About 30 minutes

There’s no need to explain the appeal of this combination. Rich, sweet, and chocolaty: once you see how much purer the flavor is in the DIY version (and how easy it is to make), you’ll never go back. Spread it on a baguette or in between cake layers or cookies, dollop it on your waffle, eat it with a spoon …

  • 1½ cups hazelnuts, blanched
  • 12 ounces chocolate, chopped
  • 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter, diced, at room temperature
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 3 tablespoons sugar
  • ½ teaspoon salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Spread the nuts out on a baking sheet and toast them in the oven until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

2. Use a food processor to grind the hazelnuts. At first they will become very finely ground, then they will make a thick paste; finally, after a minute or two that paste will loosen up a bit to be smooth and fluid.

3. Melt the chocolate and butter together in a small saucepan over low heat or in the microwave, stirring to combine. Meanwhile, warm the milk, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat. When it just starts to boil, remove from the heat and set aside.

4. Add the chocolate and butter mixture to the hazelnuts and process until combined, then add the warm milk and blend until smooth. Transfer the spread to jars and let cool completely before sealing and refrigerating for a week. As it cools, it will thicken.

CHOCOLATE-ALMOND SPREAD Substitute 1 cup almonds for the hazelnuts.

CHOCOLATE-ORANGE-HAZELNUT SPREAD Add 2 tablespoons grated orange zest to the milk mixture before warming.

6 On-Hand Dessert Toppings

As easy as most frostings and toppings are to make, sometimes you just don’t have the time or attention span to get them done. Here are some alternatives to have standing by:

  • Confectioners’ sugar: Dust it on any cake or plain cookie.
  • Fruit: Chop fruit, add sugar, maybe some water, and give it a quick buzz in the microwave for an impromptu fruit sauce; or don’t—plain fruit is great too.
  • Ice cream: Goes with everything—cakes, crumbled cookies, waffles, fruit, etc. You can’t go wrong with vanilla. If you are looking to impress, keep a tub of ginger, lemon, or pistachio in the freezer.
  • Chopped dark chocolate: Doesn’t go with everything, but when it works, it works.
  • Chopped nuts: Finely chop them or buzz in a coffee grinder if you want to dust them and get better cling.
  • Maple syrup, honey, or balsamic vinegar: These are all pantry staples and good on their own.

Roasted Nut Butter

Makes: About 1 cup

Time: 15 minutes

It’s incredibly simple to make nut butter at home, and roasting the nuts first in the oven enhances their flavors. Try this with any nut you like and eat it straight from the jar or incorporate it into your baking.

  • 1½ cups nuts
  • Pinch of salt

1. Heat the oven to 350°F. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned and fragrant, 5 to 8 minutes.

2. Let the nuts cool slightly, then transfer them to a food processor. Add the salt and grind the nuts until they are the consistency of coarse meal. Add 2 tablespoons water and process until creamy, 1 or 2 minutes. Add more water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, until smooth and spreadable. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Store in an airtight container for up to a month.

RICHER ROASTED NUT BUTTER For a bit more oomph, use softened butter instead of water.

ROASTED NUT AND HONEY BUTTER A touch of sweetness goes a long way: Add 2 tablespoons honey to the food processor with the water.

SPICED NUT BUTTER An extra hit of flavor that goes equally well with the classic version or to offset the honey variation: Add ½ teaspoon cayenne and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon along with the salt.

Speculaas Spread

Makes: About 2 cups

Time: 15 minutes

Sometimes called “cookie butter,” this has all the warmly spiced, brown sugar-rich flavors of speculaas cookies, condensed into a creamy and addictive spread. Try it on waffles, sandwiched between two cookies, or swirled into brownie batter. If you prefer it crunchy, reserve one-third of the cookies and pulse them into the finished spread, until they’re broken into small but distinct pieces.

  • ¾ cup cream
  • ¼ cup packed brown sugar
  • 6 ounces (about 2 dozen) Speculaas cookies, lightly crushed
  • 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter, cut into pieces
  • ½ teaspoon cinnamon
  • ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
  • ¼ teaspoon ginger
  • ¼ teaspoon salt

1. Combine the cream and brown sugar in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture is thick and shiny and the sugar is dissolved, 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Put the cookies in a heatproof bowl, then pour the hot cream mixture over them. Lightly toss and let sit for a few minutes, until the cookies start to soften. Transfer to a food processor and let the machine run until the cookies are broken apart. Add the butter and spices and continue to process until the mixture is very smooth and thick. Scrape into a jar and let cool to room temperature before using.

Marshmallow Sauce

Makes: About 2½ cups

Time: About 30 minutes

Marshmallows made from scratch share only a name with the processed store-bought version. You’ll love this sweet, fluffy sauce as an accompaniment for ice cream (pages 309-315) and soft cakes. If you prefer, switch out the egg whites for 1 teaspoon gelatin powder: mix it with ½ cup water in your mixing bowl and let it bloom while you do the rest.

  • 2 egg whites
  • ⅛ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
  • ½ cup light corn syrup
  • ⅓ cup sugar
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Beat the egg whites in a metal bowl with an electric mixer (fitted with the whisk attachment if you’re using a stand mixer) until frothy. Add the salt and cream of tartar and beat on high until soft peaks form. Set aside.

2. Mix together the corn syrup, sugar, and ½ cup water in a saucepan over high heat. Stir every now and then until the mixture comes to a boil, then leave it alone to cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, or until the temperature reaches 240°F.

3. Continue to beat the egg whites on medium-low speed as you slowly and carefully pour in the syrup. Increase the speed to medium and continue to beat until the mixture becomes thick and shiny. Stir in the vanilla. Stored in an airtight container, this will keep in the fridge for up to 1 week.

FLUFFY MARSHMALLOW FILLING The classic filling for whoopie pies: Beat 2 sticks butter until light and smooth. Gradually add 2 cups confectioners’ sugar and continue to beat until fluffy. Mix in 1 recipe (2½ cups) Marshmallow Sauce and an additional 1 teaspoon vanilla until combined.

Peanut Butter Sauce

Makes: About 1¾ cups

Time: 10 minutes

Peanut butter sauce is a welcome alternative to Rich Chocolate Sauce or Hot Fudge for ice cream sundaes. But don’t stop there: Drizzle it over crêpes, Chocolate Cake, Mississippi Mud Pie, or truly any chocolate dessert—this pairing is classic for a reason. For a thinner sauce, add a bit more cream to the finished sauce, 1 tablespoon at a time, up to ¼ cup.

  • ¾ cup cream
  • ⅓ cup light brown sugar
  • 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter
  • 1 cup smooth peanut butter
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • Pinch of salt

Combine the cream, sugar, and butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook until the mixture comes to a boil and the sugar is dissolved. Boil for 1 minute, then remove from the heat. Let cool for a few minutes, then stir in the peanut butter, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Refrigerate in an airtight jar for 1 week if not using the sauce right away.

ANY NUT BUTTER SAUCE Substitute any nut butter you like for the peanut butter; hazelnut and macadamia are standouts.

CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER SAUCE Add ½ cup finely chopped bittersweet chocolate with the peanut butter while the sauce is still warm. Stir until the chocolate is smooth and melted.