The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs: An Essential Guide to the Flavors of the World - Padma Lakshmi (2016)

SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z

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PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: gomasio, garlic powder, dried ginger, grains of paradise, dried galangal, and garam masala

GALANGAL

BOTANICAL NAMES: Alpinia galanga (greater galangal), A. officinarum (lesser galangal)

OTHER NAMES: galangale; Laos root, galanga (greater); Chinese ginger, China root (lesser)

FORMS: sliced dried rhizomes and ground

Galangal is a tropical plant in the ginger family. There are several varieties; the two used in the kitchen are greater galangal and lesser galangal. Greater galangal is native to Indonesia, specifically Java, and lesser galangal to southern China. Today, galangal is cultivated in China and Southeast Asia.

Greater galangal can grow to as tall as 6 feet; the lesser generally reaches heights of no more than 3 feet. As with ginger and turmeric, it is the rhizomes, or underground roots, that are used in cooking. Although galangal was known in European kitchens in the Middle Ages, when it was called galangale, it is now rarely seen outside the countries where it is grown. It has been used for medicinal purposes since ancient times, especially in China (in parts of Asia, the powder was taken as snuff—a sure if somewhat unnerving way to clear one’s sinuses).

After harvesting, the rhizomes are trimmed, with some of the skin removed to facilitate drying, and then dried, traditionally in the sun. Both types of galangal resemble ginger, but the skin is marked with horizontal rings or stripes. Fresh greater galangal usually has orange-red skin with darker rings; the interior is creamy and pale yellow. Lesser galangal has orange-red to brown skin, marked with pale brown rings, and the flesh is pale brown, sometimes with a pinkish tinge. Once dried, the rhizomes are polished to remove most of the remaining skin and then sliced or ground into a powder. The dried slices are brown around the edges and tan inside; the powder is brown or reddish-brown.

Greater galangal smells like ginger but has a more peppery, piney fragrance. The flavor is not as sharp as that of ginger and there are sometimes slight citrus notes. Lesser galangal is hotter than greater galangal. Ground galangal has a sharp, hot, slightly musky taste; it should be used sparingly. The sliced dried rhizomes keep well for up to three years. If stored airtight, the powder will retain much of its pungency for at least six months.

Galangal is an important flavoring in Thai cuisine, but it is also used throughout Southeast Asia and in China. Fresh galangal is an essential ingredient in many Thai curry pastes, and dried galangal is generally favored over ginger there in cooking. Galangal is also used in many Southeast Asian curries, stews, and soups, including pho, Vietnam’s much-loved beef soup, and in fish and seafood dishes. It is an ingredient in many versions of sambal, the spicy Indonesian seasoning paste. It is also used in some liqueurs and bitters.

Kencur, or kenchur, another member of the family, is sometimes confused with lesser galangal. Its botanical name is Kaempferia galanga, and its origins are in Southeast Asia. It is not as hot as galangal, and it has noticeable notes of camphor or menthol. Kencur is most widely used in Indonesia.

MEDICINAL USES: Galangal is a traditional remedy for respiratory problems in Southeast Asia and China. It is also considered a digestive in many cultures.

GÂLAT DAGGA

See Tunisian Five-Spice Mix.

GARAM MASALA

Garam masala is one of the defining seasonings of northern India and Moghul-style cooking. Masala refers to a single spice or a blend of spices, and garam means “hot” or “warm,” and the ingredients for the spice mix can vary from cook to cook. One of the simplest versions is made with either green or black cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, and black peppercorns. Others may also contain coriander, mace or nutmeg, cloves, and/or dried bay leaves, as well as both green and black cardamom. The mixture is sold as a blend of whole spices or as ground spices, and, either way, is incredibly aromatic and intensely flavorful. The spices are usually dry-roasted before grinding.

Garam masala is added to recipes at different points, depending on the form and the type of dish. The whole-spice blend is usually fried in oil or ghee before other ingredients are added to the pan, though the spices may simply be toasted before use. Whole-spice mixes are typically added to plain white basmati rice and rice dishes such as pilafs and biryanis. They are also used to season dals and other lentil preparations, as well as meat kebabs, chicken, and meat curries. The powdered mix can be used for any of the dishes mentioned here, and it can also be an ingredient in marinades for grilled or roasted fish. It is often used to season potatoes and vegetables, and many vegetarian dishes. Some cooks like to sprinkle a little ground garam masala over yogurt or salads.

GARLIC CHIVES

See Chives.

GARLIC (AND ONION) POWDER

Although garlic and onion powder, also called granulated garlic or onion, are not spices, many cooks turn to them as versatile seasonings. The powders are shelf-stable and easy ways to add flavor to a sauce, stew, or other dish. To make them, garlic or onion is simply dried and ground, although some brands contain an anti-caking agent. Either or both powders can be sprinkled over pizza, used as a rub for grilled foods, or mixed with softened butter for an aromatic spread. Garlic and onion powder are used in many seasoning blends, both homemade and commercial.

GINGER

BOTANICAL NAME: Zingiber officinale

OTHER NAMES: gingerroot

FORMS: fresh, dried rhizomes, dried slices, and ground

GINGER TEA Stir a generous ¼ teaspoon ground ginger and 1 teaspoon honey into 1 cup hot water.

Although it is often referred to as gingerroot, ginger is actually an underground rhizome. It comes from a perennial tropical plant that is native to India or China, or perhaps both—its origins are unclear. However, it is clear that it is one of the oldest spices, and its use is widespread. Its botanical name comes from the Sanskrit word for ginger, singabera, which also means “shaped like a horn.” China and India are the biggest producers today, but ginger is also grown in the West Indies, Africa, Hawaii, and northern Australia.

Fresh ginger has pale tan skin and pale yellow flesh; the dried has brownish skin and a tan interior. The knobby branched rhizomes are often referred to as hands, and the smaller branches are sometimes called fingers. In the trade, the dried rhizomes are known as races. Ginger that will be dried is usually harvested eight to ten months after it is planted (ginger that will be used fresh or preserved is harvested several months earlier). It may or may not be peeled, bleached, or otherwise processed before it is dried, then cut into slices or ground.

Slices of dried ginger can be used to make a spicy tea or warming infusion. Some Indian chefs and cooks prefer to use the slices rather than commercial ground ginger, bruising and pounding the slices with a mallet or rolling pin and then grinding them, for a brighter flavor than that of powdered ginger that has been sitting on the shelf. The flavor of ground ginger can vary depending on its source, but it is generally sharp, spicy, hot, mildly fruity, and aromatic; it is considered a warming spice. Although ginger is cultivated throughout India, the type from Cochin, which is widely exported, is usually considered the best. Jamaican ground ginger has a more delicate aroma and taste and is especially highly regarded. Lower-quality ground ginger may contain a lot of fiber and should be avoided.

In Europe and North America, ground ginger is most often used in baking and in desserts. Gingerbread and gingersnaps are the most obvious examples, but it is also used in spice cakes, scones and biscuits, puddings, and fruit dishes. On the savory side, many Indian and Asian curries are seasoned with ground and fresh ginger.

MEDICINAL USES: Ginger is considered a digestive and is said to help prevent motion sickness. Ginger tea can be drunk to soothe a sore throat or provide a nice, warming lift, or it may be taken before traveling.

GOCHUGARU/KOCHUKARU

See Red Pepper Flakes.

GOMASIO

OTHER SPELLING: gomashio

A Japanese condiment or spice blend, gomasio is a coarsely ground mixture of black or unhulled white sesame seeds and sea salt (the word goma means “sesame seeds” and shio means “salt”). Some versions include dried seaweed. Gomasio is sprinkled over rice, vegetables, and salads and used as a seasoning in other dishes. It is used in macrobiotic diets as a healthier, lower-sodium alternative to plain salt.

GRAINS OF PARADISE

BOTANICAL NAME: Aframomum melegueta

OTHER NAMES: Melegueta pepper, Guinea pepper

FORMS: whole seeds

Grains of paradise come from a tall perennial plant that is native to the western coast of Africa, along the Gulf of Guinea. It is a member of the ginger family and related to cardamom. One of its alternate names, Melegueta pepper, comes from Melle, an ancient empire between Mauritania and Sudan, which the Portuguese colonists called Malaguet; the coastal region has also been called the Pepper Coast. Today, the plant grows primarily in Ghana and West Africa. The spice has been known since the thirteenth century, and it was used in Europe, often as a substitute for black pepper, for the next five centuries or so. Today, however, it is not often found outside its place of origin.

The fruits of the plant contain dozens of tiny seeds nestled in a bitter white pulp. The seeds are removed from the pulp and dried, traditionally in the sun. The seeds are hard, shiny, dark brown, and multifaceted, with a paler tip at one end; the interior is bright white. The whole seeds have a peppery fragrance with notes of cardamom; once cracked or ground, they are very aromatic, warm, pungent, and peppery, with a lingering numbness on the tongue.

Grains of paradise should be crushed or ground before using; toast them before grinding to bring out the flavor, if you like. Today, the spice is used primarily in the cooking of western Africa, but it can be substituted for black pepper in many dishes, imparting its distinctive flavor along with a peppery bite. Try the crushed or coarsely ground seeds as a rub for grilled steaks and other meats or add to stews and hearty soups (the Portuguese took grains of paradise to Brazil, and it appears in some recipes for feijoada, the national dish). Sprinkle some over homemade ricotta and serve it as a dip with flatbread. Grains of paradise are also good in mulled wine (they were traditionally added to warmed sack); they flavor some high-end gins, as well as craft beers and even home brews. They are one of the ingredients in the Tunisian spice blend qâlat daqqa, which also includes black pepper as well as cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon, and in some versions of the North African seasoning mix ras el hanout.

GUINEA PEPPER

See Grains of Paradise.

GUM MASTIC

See Mastic.

GUMBO FILÉ

See Filé Powder.