The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs: An Essential Guide to the Flavors of the World - Padma Lakshmi (2016)
SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z
H
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: hawaij, hyssop, hoja santa, and herbes de Provence
HARISSA
See Charmoula and Other Spice Pastes.
HAWAIJ
OTHER SPELLINGS: hawayej, hawayij, hawayil
Hawaij is an aromatic, flavorful Yemenite spice mix, used throughout the Arabian Peninsula, notably in Israel, because of its Yemenite Jewish population. There are several different versions, some of which are available as whole-spice mixtures as well as the more commonly found ground forms. One that originated in Aden, a former British colony that is now part of Yemen, consists of ground cardamom, coriander, cumin, and black pepper, along with turmeric, which gives the mix its vibrant orange-brown color. Hawaij is used in many soups and stews and as a rub for grilled chicken, fish or seafood, and meats, especially lamb. Another popular blend includes saffron threads along with cardamom, turmeric, black pepper, and, sometimes, ground nigella and/or caraway seeds. It is good with lentils and other legumes. Other variations of hawaij are used for brewing tea or coffee.
HERBES DE PROVENCE
Herbes de Provence is a classic French blend like fines herbes, but it consists of stronger herbs and is a more assertive seasoning. Fennel and/or celery seeds, dried lavender, marjoram, rosemary, basil, sage, summer savory, and thyme are the usual ingredients, but some blends are made with fewer herbs; although lavender is certainly traditional, some cooks find it overpowering and prefer to leave it out. Herbes de Provence makes a flavorful rub for meats, including steaks, or poultry that will be grilled; it is also good with roast chicken. It is added to some stews and is very good sprinkled over ripe tomatoes before they are roasted for tomatoes Provençal.
HING
See Asafoetida.
HOJA SANTA
BOTANICAL NAMES: Piper auritum, P. sanctum
OTHER NAMES: yerba santa, hierba santa, momo, acuyo, pepperleaf, pepper plant, root beer plant
FORMS: fresh and dried leaves
The hoja santa plant is native to Central America and goes by a variety of names throughout Latin America. It also grows wild in the American Southwest, and in southern United States it is sometimes called the root beer plant because of the scent of its leaves. The large, velvety, heart-shaped leaves have a strong anise flavor and a slightly peppery flavor—not surprising, since the plant is a member of the pepper family. Hoja santa—the name means “holy leaf”—is an important herb in Mexican cooking, particularly in the southern part of the country, and is used in a variety of ways. The whole fresh leaves can serve as wrappers for tamales and other foods, imbuing them with the herb’s distinctive flavor. They are also used in the green moles of Oaxaca, in pozole and other soups, and in seafood sauces. The flavor of the dried leaves is not as intense as that of the fresh, but they can be crumbled and used to flavor soups, sauces, and other dishes.
HYSSOP
BOTANICAL NAME: Hyssopus officinalis
FORMS: fresh and dried leaves
Hyssop is an ancient perennial herb that is native to the Mediterranean. It is a member of the mint family, and its flavor is slightly bitter, with sweeter minty notes. The plant looks something like tarragon, with long, narrow leaves, and both the stems and leaves are used (as are the flowers). Hyssop was originally valued for its medicinal uses more than as a culinary herb. It is good in soups and stews, such as cassoulet, and in other bean or legume dishes—crumble the leaves before adding them to bring out their fragrance and flavor. It can also be added, sparingly, to rubs for grilled lamb or pork. Hyssop is said to aid in the digestion of fatty foods (speaking of cassoulet), and it is used to make tisanes or herbal teas. It is also one of the many herbs in Chartreuse, the French liqueur that has been made only by an order of monks since the 1600s (the secret formula is said to list more than a hundred herbs and other plants).