Not For Tourists Guide to Seattle (2016)

Central Seattle

Map 1

The formerly seedy Belltown now bursts with condos, boutique eateries, and noisy nightlife destinations. But don't fret, heroin can still be scored on the proper street corners. Homeless shelters and public health centers neighbor the rock clubs, art galleries, and sushi joints, making for an occasionally jarring mix of people. To escape the craziness, take a stroll through SAM's fabulous Olympic Sculpture Park.

✵ Cinerama ✵ 2100 4th Ave

206-448-6680

One of three theaters in the world showing three-panel Cinerama films. Amazing.

✵ The Edgewater Hotel ✵ 2411 Alaskan Way

206-728-7000

Yes, Virginia, you really can fish from your hotel window.

✵ Olympic Sculpture Park ✵ 2901 Western Ave

206-654-3100

Ambitious venue for the SAM's sculpture collection.

✵ Seattle P.I. Globe ✵ 101 Elliott Ave W

800-542-0820

Is it the Post-Intelligencer or the Daily Planet?

✵ Bedlam Coffee ✵ 2231 2nd Ave

206-910-2300

Coffeehouse or community center: you decide.

✵ Cherry Street Coffee House ✵ 2719 1st Ave

206-441-5489

Good coffee, nice staff, but the owner added a sick leave surcharge to protest a city mandate. Not cool.

✵ Cherry Street Coffee House ✵ 2621 5th Ave

206-812-1298

Good coffee, nice staff, but the owner added a sick leave surcharge to protest a city mandate. Not cool.

✵ Dimitrou's Jazz Alley Coffee ✵ 2203 6th Ave

206-441-9729

They'll get you jazzed, alright.

✵ Midtown Espresso ✵ 2133 5th Ave

206-443-9070

Best breakfast sandwiches in town.

✵ Street Bean Espresso ✵ 2702 3rd Ave

206-708-6803

Good coffee for a great cause: Helping kids get off the streets.

✵ Uptown Espresso ✵ 2801 Alaskan Way

206-770-7777

Self-proclaimed "Home of the Velvet Foam" but the coffee underneath is just so-so.

✵ Uptown Espresso ✵ 2504 4th Ave

206-441-1084

Self-proclaimed "Home of the Velvet Foam" but the coffee underneath is just so-so.

✵ Wheelhouse Coffee ✵ 2113 Westlake Ave

206-467-0160

Serving Lighthouse coffee with a smile is totally in their wheelhouse.

✵ The 5 Point Café ✵ 415 Cedar St

206-448-9991

Start and finish your Belltown adventure at this all-night joint.

✵ Amber ✵ 2214 1st Ave

206-728-8500

If Maxim Magazine owned a bar.

✵ Black Bottle ✵ 2600 1st Ave

206-441-1500

Damned if it ain't noisy, though the list is decent, and the flatbreads rule.

✵ The Crocodile ✵ 2200 2nd Ave

206-441-4618

Legendary venue where some of Seattle's biggest names got their start.

✵ Cyclops Café and Lounge ✵ 2421 1st Ave

206-441-1677

A tip of the fedora to old Belltown lounge days.

✵ Far Eats ✵ 2301 5th Ave

206-770-3287

Above-average Indian tucked away in the quiet part of Belltown.

✵ Foundation Nightclub ✵ 2218 Western Ave

206-535-7285

Top 40 and blurred lines galore.

✵ Hula Hula ✵ 106 1st Ave N

206-284-5003

Drink BOWLS full of rum in this ultra tiki lounge.

✵ Lava Lounge ✵ 2226 2nd Ave

206-441-5660

Free shuffleboard and a great '80s jukebox offer a refuge from Belltown yuppies.

✵ List ✵ 2226 1st Ave

206-441-1000

Terrific weeknight happy hour. Typical B-Town douchery on weekends.

✵ Palace Kitchen ✵ 2030 5th Ave

206-448-2001

Just getting started at midnight? Eat fine grub until 1 am, drink 'til 2 am.

✵ Queen City Grill ✵ 2201 1st Ave

206-443-0975

Decent Northwest fare and loud Belltown crowd.

✵ Rabbit Hole ✵ 2222 2nd Ave

206-956-4653

Worth jumping down, depsite squandered theme potential. Hush puppies.

✵ Rendezvous ✵ 2322 2nd Ave

206-441-5823

Dive bar with a touch of old Hollywood class.

✵ Rob Roy ✵ 2332 2nd Ave

206-956-8423

Linda's rather impressive attempt at swank. Two-fist Cristal with High Life.

✵ Rocco's ✵ 2228 2nd Ave

206-448-2625

Pizza and cocktails from the crazy alcoholics who brought you Noc Noc.

✵ Sarajevo Lounge ✵ 2332 1st Ave

206-448-9000

Party like the Bosians and/or Herzegovinians.

✵ Shorty's ✵ 2222 2nd Ave

206-441-5449

Pinball, hot dogs, and booze: the Holy Trinity of Awesome.

✵ Some Random Bar ✵ 2604 1st Ave

206-745-2185

Inventive menu, gorgeous decor, WORST NAME EVER.

✵ Spitfire ✵ 2219 4th Ave

206-441-7966

"Urban sports bar" pleases all sorts with awesome happy hour.

✵ Spur Gastropub ✵ 113 Blanchard St

206-728-6706

Another notable notch on the McCracken/Tough empire's fancy-ass bed post.

✵ Tia Lou ✵ 2218 1st Ave

206-733-8226

Happy hour patio: Muy bonita. Night crowd: El Douche.

✵ Tini Bigs ✵ 100 Denny Way

206-284-0931

Be so very new millennium by heading back to the '50s at this martini lounge.

✵ Twist ✵ 2313 1st Ave

206-448-9478

The twist is that you're the meat.

✵ Umi Sake House ✵ 2230 1st Ave

206-374-8717

Late-night sushi happy hour in indoor zen garden!

✵ The Upstairs ✵ 2209 2nd Ave

206-441-4013

A Hipstamatic wet dream.

✵ Vittles Neighborhood Bistro & Bar ✵

2330 2nd Ave

206-448-3348

Decadent happy hour menu served twice nightly.

✵ Wasabi ✵ 2311 2nd Ave

206-441-6044

"Bistro" is Japanese for "Yuppie."

✵ The Whisky Bar ✵ 2122 2nd Ave

206-443-4490

Guess what their specialty is.

Shorty's is the closest thing to heaven in Seattle with pinball, booze, and hot dogs. Cinerama is a close second, offering one of the best movie-going experiences in the world. Other highlights include the Polynesian-tastic happy hour at Ohana, the Rat Pack drink experience at the Rendezvous, and a rock show at the legendary Crocodile.

✵ The 5 Point Café ✵ 415 Cedar St

206-448-9991 ✵ $

24-hour bar/diner with decent food. Just don't piss off the wait staff.

✵ Anthony's Bell Street Diner ✵ 2201 Alaskan Way

206-448-6688 ✵ $$$

Casual (and affordable) offshoot of the popular Anthony's chain.

✵ Anthony's Pier 66 ✵ 2201 Alaskan Way

206-448-6688 ✵ $$$$

Pacific Northwest chain on Elliott Bay.

✵ Assaggio Ristorante ✵ 2010 4th Ave

206-441-1399 ✵ $$$$

If you don't mind the tourists, some of the food is pretty good.

✵ Bell Thai ✵ 2211 4th Ave

206-441-8488 ✵ $$

Great lunch deals. Otherwise uninspiring.

✵ Bellini Italian Bistro ✵ 2302 1st Ave

206-441-4480 ✵ $$

Napoli-style pizza and pasta with the full Italian dining experience. You're too skinny.

✵ Biscuit Bitch Belltown ✵ 2303 3rd Ave

206-728-2219 ✵ $

Southern hospitality and buttery goodness behind a resting bitch face.

✵ Black Bottle ✵ 2600 1st Ave

206-441-1500 ✵ $$

Fill your jowls with flatbread and wine to drown out the noise.

✵ Cantina Lena ✵ 2105 5th Ave

206-519-5723 ✵ $$$

Tom Douglas does Mexican (and it's pretty bueno). Also, CHURROS.

✵ CJ's Eatery ✵ 2619 1st Ave

206-728-1648 ✵ $$

Delicious omelettes and amazing homemade chicken noodle soup.

✵ The Crocodile ✵ 2200 2nd Ave

206-441-4618 ✵ $

Serving wood-fired pizza late in the Back Bar.

✵ Dahlia Lounge ✵ 2001 4th Ave

206-682-4142 ✵ $$$$

Another gem in Tom Douglas's juggernaut. Great for dates.

✵ El Camion ✵ 1021 Occidental Ave S

206-659-0236 ✵ $

Amazing truck tacos and tamales you can trust.

✵ El Gaucho ✵ 2505 1st Ave

206-728-1337 ✵ $$$$

Super-luxurious surf and turf, best for impressing the pants off someone.

✵ Far Eats ✵ 2301 5th Ave

206-770-3287 ✵ $$

Above-average Indian tucked away in the quiet part of Belltown.

✵ Flying Fish ✵ 2234 1st Ave

206-728-8595 ✵ $$$$

Fish for the fresh-faced younger set.

✵ The Grill from Ipanema ✵ 2313 1st Ave

206-457-4885 ✵ $$$

A carnivore's paradise if you can get past the name and annoying website.

✵ Holy Cannoli ✵ 2720 3rd Ave

206-841-8205 ✵ $

Your Italian pastry & stromboli prayers have been answered.

✵ Hook & Plow ✵ 2100 Alaskan Way

206-256-1040 ✵ $$

Lackluster hotel (Marriott) restaurant disguised as a trendy gastropub.

✵ Icon Grill ✵ 1935 5th Ave

206-441-6330 ✵ $$$

Kitchsy-crazy interior and familiar favorites bumped up a notch.

✵ The Innkeeper ✵ 2510 1st Ave

206-441-7817 ✵ $$

You don't have to go home, but you can't stay here.

✵ La Fontana Siciliana ✵ 120 Blanchard St

206-441-1045 ✵ $$

Much-loved Sicilian spot.

✵ La Vita E Bella ✵ 2411 2nd Ave

206-441-5322 ✵ $$

Among the most deliciousest pizza crusts in town—crisp, chewy, perfect.

✵ Local 360 ✵ 2234 1st Ave

206-441-9360 ✵ $$

Appealing to any degree of Seattlite, from kid to drunken foodie.

✵ Lola ✵ 2000 4th Ave

206-441-1430 ✵ $$

Always hoppin', so service can be spotty. Food's a little Greek and a lot delicious.

✵ The Lucky Diner ✵ 2630 1st Ave

206-805-0133 ✵ $$

Ultra-modern diner. Just a little too clean to be a greasy spoon.

✵ Macrina Bakery & Café ✵ 2408 1st Ave

206-448-4032 ✵ $$

Macrina's baked goods will make breakfast your most important meal.

✵ Mama's Mexican Kitchen ✵ 2334 2nd Ave

206-728-6262 ✵ $$

Kitschy Mexican cooking with a thing for Elvis (and cheese).

✵ Marrakesh Moroccan Restaurant ✵ 2334 2nd Ave

206-956-0500 ✵ $$$

Belly Dancer Had a Little Lamb.

✵ Ohana ✵ 2207 1st Ave

206-956-9329 ✵ $$

Pu-pus that are far from poo poo.

✵ Orfeo ✵ 2107 3rd Ave

206-443-1972 ✵ $$$

Wood-fired charm and Italian-inflected menu.

✵ Palace Kitchen ✵ 2030 5th Ave

206-448-2001 ✵ $$$

Gourmet late-night dining in Seattle? This is your spot.

✵ Queen City Grill ✵ 2201 1st Ave

206-443-0975 ✵ $$$$

Seafood's the focus, unless you count the horndogs hoping to score.

✵ Restaurant Zoe ✵ 2137 2nd Ave

206-256-2060 ✵ $$$

The brown butter-bathed ricotta gnudi is now officially Seattle legend.

✵ Rocco's ✵ 2228 2nd Ave

206-448-2625 ✵ $$

Pizza and cocktails from the crazy alcoholics who brought you Noc Noc.

✵ Serious Pie ✵ 316 Virginia St

206-838-7388 ✵ $$$

Truly amazing crust in tiny quarters.

✵ Shaker and Spear ✵ 2000 2nd Ave

206-826-1700 ✵ $$$

Fancy hotel restaurant seafood.

✵ Shiro's Sushi ✵ 2401 2nd Ave

206-443-9844 ✵ $$$

Wait to sit at the bar, chat with Shiro, be utterly delighted.

✵ Six Seven ✵ 2411 Alaskan Way

206-269-4575 ✵ $$$$

Northwest seafood classics.

✵ Some Random Bar ✵ 2604 1st Ave

206-745-2185 ✵ $$

Inventive menu, gorgeous decor, WORST NAME EVER.

✵ Spur Gastropub ✵ 113 Blanchard St

206-728-6706 ✵ $$$

Multiple award-winning cuisine in a vaguely western bar and the crowds to prove it.

✵ Tavolata ✵ 2323 2nd Ave

206-838-8008 ✵ $$

Fantastically sexy space with handmade pastas to match.

✵ Tilikum Place Café ✵ 407 Cedar St

206-282-4830 ✵ $$

Euro flavors with a delightfully NW twist. Also sexy waitstaff.

✵ Top Pot Doughnuts ✵ 2124 5th Ave

206-728-1966 ✵ $

Top Pot is tops!

✵ Two Bells ✵ 2313 4th Ave

206-441-3050 ✵ $$

A rare old soul in trendy Belltown. Tasty burgers.

✵ Vittles Neighborhood Bistro & Bar ✵

2330 2nd Ave

206-448-3348 ✵ $$$

Comfort food for grownups.

✵ Wasabi ✵ 2311 2nd Ave

206-441-6044 ✵ $$$$

Sushi rolls usually involving avocado or cream cheese. Not for purists.

✵ The Yellow Leaf Cupcake Co. ✵ 2209 4th Ave

206-441-4240 ✵ $

The next evolution of cupcakes.

✵ Zeek's Pizza ✵ 419 Denny Way

206-285-8646 ✵ $$

Pizzas with pizzazz, like the Thai version with peanut sauce.

Eating-wise, indulge on tasty baked goods at Macrina. For something a little more upscale, try the cozy and inventive flavors of Tilikum Place Cafe. And of course there are all those Tom Douglas places: Dahlia Lounge, Lola, Serious Pie, and Palace Kitchen—it seems like the list goes on and on. For more in the Top Chef vein, visit Ethan Stowell's Tavolata. Elsewhere, all the romance and intrigue of Morocco comes alive in the mysterious-looking Marrakesh Moroccan Restaurant And if 24-7 greasy grub is all you're after, try The 5 Point Café.

✵ Boston St ✵ 1902 Post Alley

206-634-0580

The children's (somewhat smart ass, sometimes endearing) everything store.

✵ Champion Party Supply ✵ 124 Denny Way

206-284-1980

From slutty nurse costumes to slutty werewolf costumes. And party supplies!

✵ Dahlia Bakery ✵ 2001 4th Ave

206-441-4540

Take a hot steaming loaf of Tom Douglas home with you.

✵ Kuhlman ✵ 2419 1st Ave

206-441-1999

Your friends Ben Sherman and Fred Perry live here.

✵ Peter Miller Books ✵ 2326 2nd Ave

206-441-4114

Top-notch selection of architecture and design books.

✵ Rudy's Barbershop ✵ 89 Wall St

206-448-8900

Absolute best cheap haircut.

✵ Singles Going Steady ✵ 2219 2nd Ave

206-441-7396

Terrific range of new/used punk and indie music sold by friendly crusties.