Fodor's Paris - Fodor's (2016)
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Updated by Jennifer Ladonne
Nothing, but nothing, can push you into the current of Parisian life faster than a few hours of shopping. Follow the lead of locals, who slow to a crawl as their eyes lock on a tempting display. Window-shopping is one of this city’s greatest spectator sports; the French call it lèche-vitrine—literally, “licking the windows”—which is fitting because many of the displays look good enough to eat.
Store owners here play to sophisticated audiences with voracious appetites for everything from spangly flagship stores to minimalist boutiques to under-the-radar spots in 19th-century glass-roofed passages. Parisians know that shopping isn’t about the kill, it’s about the chase: walking down cobblestone streets looking for items they didn’t know they wanted, they’re casual yet quick to pounce. They like being seduced by a clever display and relish the performance elements of browsing. Watching them shop can be almost as much fun as shopping yourself.
And nowhere is the infamous Parisian “attitude” more palpable than in the realm of fine shopping—the more haute the more hauteur.
Parisians are a proud bunch, and they value decorum. So dress to impress—and remember your manners. You must say bonjour upon entering a shop and merci, au revoir when leaving, even if it’s to no one in particular. Think of it more as announcing your coming and going. Beyond this, protocol becomes less prescribed and more a matter of good judgment. If a salesperson is hovering, there’s a reason; let him or her help you. To avoid icy stares once and for all, confidence and politeness go a long way.
As for what to buy, the sky’s the limit in terms of choices. If your funds aren’t limitless, however, take comfort in knowing that treasures can be found on a budget. And if you do decide to indulge, what better place to make that once-in-a-blue-moon splurge? When you get home and friends ask where you got those to-die-for shoes, with a shrug you’ll casually say, “These? Oh … I bought them in Paris.”
A value-added tax (or T.V.A.) of 20% is imposed on most consumer goods, and the rate can be as high as 33% for certain luxury items. To qualify for a refund, you must have bought more than €175 of goods in the same store on the same day and have stayed three months or less in the EU at the time of purchase. In 2014, the new PABLO reimbursement system was introduced: now, instead of lengthy paper applications, retailers provide computer-generated forms with a barcode and the PABLO logo, which must be scanned in the airport at a designated PABLO terminal before you check in for your outbound flight. Refunds are processed more quickly, and funds are directly credited to your credit card or bank account.
The city’s open-air food markets attract the entire spectrum of Paris society, from the splendid matron with her minuscule dog in tow, to the mustachioed regular picking up his daily baguette. Although some markets are busier than others, there’s not one in Paris that doesn’t captivate the senses. Each season has its delicacies: fraises des bois (wild strawberries) and tender asparagus in spring, squash blossoms and fragrant herbs in summer, saffron-tinted chanterelles in autumn, bergamot oranges in late winter. Year-round you can find pungent lait cru (unpasteurized) cheeses, charcuterie, and wild game and fish. Many of the better-known open-air markets are in areas you’d visit for sightseeing. To get a list of market days in your area, ask your concierge or check the markets section on the website www.paris.fr/marches.
If you’re unused to the metric system, it may be helpful to know that une livre is French for a pound; une demi-livre is a half pound. For cheese or meats, un morceau will get you a piece, une tranche a slice.
Most markets are open from 8 am to 1 pm three days a week year-round (usually the weekend and one weekday) on a rotating basis.
Store hours can be tricky in Paris. Aside from department stores, which keep slightly longer hours and usually shut their doors late on Thursday, shops tend to open around 10 am and close around 7 pm. It’s not unusual to find a “back at 3” sign taped on the doors of smaller boutiques at lunchtime. Plan to do most of your foraging between Tuesday and Saturday, as the majority of shops, including department stores, are closed Sunday and some on Monday as well. You can find areas—particularly the Marais and tourist-oriented Champs-Élysées—where stores are open on Sunday. However, if you’re making a special trip somewhere, always call ahead to check hours.
TIP Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps each offer 10%-off discount cards to foreign visitors. Some items marked with a red dot, usually designer clothing and sale merchandise, are excluded. To get a card, go to the welcome desk on the main floor of either store. Remember to bring a passport or driver’s license.
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Beauty | Champs-Élysées | Around the Louvre | Opéra/Grands Boulevards | Montmartre | The Marais | Eastern Paris | Latin Quarter | St-Germain-des-Prés | Montparnasse
Reviews are alphabetical by neighborhood.
Codina extracts its fresh organic oils using the oldest press in Paris. The more than 80 varieties—many exotic—include argan to combat wrinkles, wheat germ and apricot for supple skin, borage and cassis for a detoxified glow, and cherry seed for regeneration. Parisian sylphs adore their exclusive bar shampoos, shea-butter-infused creams, massage oils, and heavenly soaps. There are also dozens of the purest French-extracted essential oils for much less than you’ll pay stateside. | 24 rue Violet, 15e, Around the Eiffel Tower | 01-45-78-88-88 | www.codina.net | Station: Dupleix.
Step into your Chanel suit, gird your loins, and plunge into Paris’s most desirable (and most daunting) hunting grounds, where royals, jet-setters, starlets, and other glitterati converge in pursuit of the high life. This elegant triangle—bordered by Avenues Montaigne, Georges V, and Champs-Élysées, with Rue François 1er in between—is home to almost all the luxury Goliaths with a few lesser worthies added in.
This opulent address is a fitting home for Paris’s first—and most famous—perfumer. Still the only Paris outlet for legendary perfumes like Shalimar and L’Heure Blue, it has added several new signature scents (including Myrrhe et Délires and Cuir Beluga). Personalized bottles in several sizes can be filled on demand, or, for a mere €30,000, a customized scent can be blended just for you. Sybarites will also appreciate Guerlain’s makeup, scented candles, and redesigned spa featuring its much-adored skin-care line. There’s an elegant new gourmet restaurant for lunch or tea, too. | 68 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-45-62-52-57 | www.guerlain.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Parfums de Nicolaï.
This perfumerie is run by Guerlain family member Patricia de Nicolaï. Children’s, women’s, and men’s scents are on offer (including some unisex), as are sprays for the home and fragrant candles. | 69 av. Raymond Poincaré, 16e, Champs-Élysée | 01-44-55-02-00 | www.pnicolai.com | Station: Victor-Hugo.
Fodor’s Choice | Bonpoint.
Outfit the prince or princess in your life at Bonpoint (yes, royalty does shop here). The prices are high, but the quality is exceptional, and the adorable mini-duds couldn’t be more stylish: picture a perfect hand-smocked Liberty-print dress, a velvety lambskin vest, or a double-breasted cashmere sweater for Little Lord Fauntleroy. The Avenue Raymond Poincaré boutique is one of more than a dozen citywide. | 64 av. Raymond Poincaré, 16e, Champs-Élysée | 01-47-27-60-81 | www.bonpoint.com | Station: Trocadéro.
Fodor’s Choice | Petit Bateau.
Petit Bateau provides a fundamental part of the classic French wardrobe from cradle to teen and beyond. The signature T-shirt—cut close to the body, with smallish shoulders—works equally well with school uniforms or vintage Chanel. High-grade cotton clothes follow designs that haven’t changed in decades (think onesies and pajamas for newborns, underwear sets, and dresses with tiny straps for summer); however, lines in cotton-silk or cotton-cashmere and popular collaborations with chic designers like Carven or Tsumori Chisato mean there’s now even more in store. There are boutiques in all the major shopping neighborhoods. Stock up: if you can find this brand back home, the prices are sure to be higher. | 116 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-40-74-02-03 | www.petit-bateau.fr | Station: George V.
Fodor’s Choice | Balenciaga.
This venerable Paris fashion house was completely revamped under the brilliant Nicolas Ghesquière, whose singular vision electrified the runway world. With his abrupt departure in late 2012, American wunderkind Alexander Wang took charge. Today the young designer’s structured-yet-feminine and freshly appealing designs draw raves each season and consistently reaffirm his stellar fashion credentials. | 10 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-20-21-11 | www.balenciaga.com | Station: Alma-Marceau.
Fodor’s Choice | Céline.
Reinvigorated by Michael Kors in the late 1990s, Céline got another much-needed jolt when Phoebe Philo arrived in 2009 and began dazzling the critics with her focused approach. Philo’s characteristically refined tailoring and attention to minute details underlie the seeming simplicity of her styles, which veer from flowing pants and long, unstructured jackets to streamlined swing skirts. Along with the ready-to-wear, Céline’s exquisite bags and shoes are staples for Paris’s fashion cognoscenti. The new Avenue Montaigne flagship carries the full line, including eyewear and perfume. There’s also a St-Germain boutique on Rue de Grenelle. | 53 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-40-70-07-03 | www.celine.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Fodor’s Choice | Chanel.
Elegant, modern looks with sex appeal and lasting value are Chanel’s stock in trade. Although the spectacular Avenue Montaigne flagship takes shoppers’ breath away, the heart of this revered fashion house—helmed by Karl Lagerfeld—is still the boutique at 31 rue Cambon, where Chanel once perched high up on the mirrored staircase watching audience reactions to her collection debuts. Great investments include all of Coco’s favorites: the perfectly tailored suit, a lean soigné dress, or a quilted bag with a gold chain. Handbags, jewelry, shoes, and accessories are all found at the newly refurbished 42 avenue Montaigne boutique, opposite the flagship store. | 51 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-44-50-73-00 | www.chanel.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Fodor’s Choice | Christian Dior.
Raf Simons’s modern, streamlined, and feminine looks have redefined this legendary label. Since assuming the helm in 2012 after John Galliano’s inglorious fall from grace, Simons has taken an architectural approach to ready-to-wear, playing with volume and contrasting geometric forms with fluid, dimensional fabrics (sometimes pierced or transparent). His meticulously tailored clothes and steadfast vision have consistently elated the fashion press. | 30 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-40-73-73-73 | www.dior.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Dolce & Gabbana.
Dolce & Gabbana offers a sexy, young-Italian-widow vibe with a side of moody boyfriend. Svelte silk dresses, sharply tailored suits, and plunging necklines are made for drama. Women’s clothes are at the Avenue Montaigne location; men’s are at 3 rue Faubourg St-Honoré. | 54 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-42-25-68-78 | www.dolcegabbana.com | Station: Alma-Marceau.
Jean-Paul Gaultier first made headlines by engineering that celebrated corset with the ironic iconic breasts for Madonna but now sends fashion editors into ecstasies with his sumptuous haute-couture creations. Designer Philippe Starck spun an Alice in Wonderland fantasy for the boutique, with quilted cream walls and Murano mirrors. Make no mistake, though, it’s all about the clothes. You’ll find a second shop in the gorgeous Galerie Vivienne. | 44 av. George V, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-44-43-00-44 | www.jeanpaulgaultier.com | Station: George V.
Le Dépôt Vente Luxe.
This beautiful high-end consignment shop carries barely worn (and sometimes never worn) designer ready-to-wear from big names, including Chanel, Dior, Hermès, Gucci, Vuitton, and Prada. Few can pass up one of last season’s outfits at one-third the price, or forgo browsing the vast selection of furs, bags, belts, scarves, shoes, and costume jewelry (and menswear). The exceptional stock justifies the hike you’ll have to make to the 17e. Alternatively, you can visit Le Dépôt Vente Luxe’s second location at 14 rue de la Tour—it’s smaller but still sublime. | 109 rue de Courcelles, 17e, Champs-Élysées | 01-40-53-80-82 | www.depot-vente-luxe.fr | Station: Wagram.
Finding just the right totally chic, totally black anything is a breeze here. This up-to-the-second concept store, comprised of three boutiques on two levels (including shoes, jewelry, accessories, and men’s), lines up all the top names that you know, along with those that you may not but should. Diffusion lines of the major labels mingle with Acne, Kenzo, Helmut Lang, Rimowa, Alexander Wang, Damir Doma, and nearly 200 others, all hand-picked to ensure fabulousness. If pressed for time, it’s a good bet for all-around satisfaction. | 66 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-53-53-33-80 | www.le66.fr | Station:Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
A glam Golden Triangle location, a Rem Koolhaas-designed boutique, sumptuous clothes—the Belgian label’s first Paris outpost hits all the marks and then some. Founded in 2013, Maison Ullens puts the focus on luxe fabrics and skins in classic-chic designs with plenty of staying power. It has everything you need for après-ski or weekends on Capri. | 4 rue de Marignan, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-20-23-56 | www.maisonullens.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Marni started out as a little Italian label that put a quirky spin on classic styles, employing retro-ish prints and colors (think citron yellow or seaweed green) and funky fabrics (such as rubberized cotton and filmy silks). Now it has evolved into a major player on the edgy fashion scene. Each season has something new to say—whether it’s an inventive take on bold ethnic prints, ingenious knits, or eloquent color schemes. Sought-after shoes and jewelry never make it to sale time. | 57 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-56-88-08-08 | www.marni.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Nina Ricci appeals to the leather-and-lace sensibility in surprising ways; that is, the lace might be in leather. Creative director Peter Copping provides archly feminine elements (picture bows, ruffles, perforated leather, pastel silks, delicate florals, and frothy colors, along with sensuous lingerie touches), and the label’s airy white-on-white Avenue Montaigne boutique is one of Paris’s dreamiest. | 39 av. Montaigne, 8e,Champs-Élysées | 01-83-97-72-12 | www.ninaricci.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Paul & Joe.
The brainchild of designer Sophie Albou, Paul & Joe is known for its eclectic, girlish blend of modern trends. There’s a retro feel to the diaphanous blouses, A-line jackets with matching short shorts, and swingy felt coats. In summer, she’ll mix in a little hippie chic. The men’s line, featuring slim, youthful designs, has steadily grown in popularity; and a secondary line, Paul & Joe Sister, has a slouchy, casual edge that attracts a younger clientele. There are 10 boutiques across the city. | 2 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-20-57-50 | www.paulandjoe.com | Station: Alma-Marceau.
Prada spins gold out of fashion straw. Knee-length skirts, peacock colors, cardigan sweaters, geometric prints: the waiting lists cross continents. Shoes, bags, and other accessories for men and women perennially become cult items. | 10 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-53-23-99-40 | www.prada.com | Station: Alma-Marceau.
Paris’s largest, most exclusive consignment store carries everything from furs and jewelry to evening gowns and lingerie. Almost any coveted designer you can think of is represented, and the savings are significant; but prices aren’t as cheap as you might expect, and there’s not much in the way of service or space. The six shops that comprise Réciproque (individually dedicated to women’s clothing, menswear, accessories, and the like) are clustered together on Rue de la Pompe; all are closed Sunday and Monday. | 89, 92, 93, 95, 97, and 101 rue de la Pompe, 16e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-04-30-28 | www.reciproque.fr | Station: Rue de la Pompe.
This is France’s most famous brand of knives; designers like Philippe Starck and Sonia Rykiel have created special models for the company. | 29 rue Boissy d’Anglas, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-40-06-09-75 | www.forge-2-laguiole.fr | Station: Concorde.
Maison de Baccarat.
This museum and crystal store was once the home of Marie-Laure de Noailles, known as the Countess of Bizarre. Philippe Starck revamped the space with his signature cleverness—yes, that’s a chandelier floating in an aquarium and, yes, that crystal arm sprouting from the wall alludes to Jean Cocteau (a friend of Noailles). Follow the red carpet to the jewelry room, where crystal baubles hang from bronze figurines, and to the immense table stacked with crystal items for the home. (See Chapter 4, The Champs-Élysées.) | 11 pl. des États-Unis, 16e, Champs-Élysée | 01-40-22-11-00 | www.baccarat.com | Station: Trocadéro.
Jewelry and Accessories
Fodor’s Choice | Dior Joaillerie.
When Victoire de Castellane was signed to create Dior’s first line of fine jewelry, she brought a big dollop of wit and panache to the venerable brand. After her romance with death heads, the young designer has returned to what she does best—utterly flamboyant gems in raucous colors, but with a new delicacy and finesse that place her designs at the pinnacle of high jewelry. | 28 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-23-52-39 | www.christiandior.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods
Berluti has been making exquisite and expensive men’s shoes for more than a century. “Nothing is too beautiful for feet” is Olga Berluti’s motto; she even exposes her creations to the moonlight to give them an extra-special patina. One model is named after Andy Warhol; other famous clients of the past include the Duke of Windsor, Fred Astaire, and James Joyce. | 26 rue Marbeuf, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-53-93-97-97 | www.berluti.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
Giuseppe Zanotti Design.
Every pair of shoes here is fetish worthy, if not downright dangerous. Mile-high spike heels, buckle stilettos, slinky python booties, and jewel-encrusted black-satin pumps beg to be noticed. More toned-down models, like over-the-knee leather flats, and even sneakers, can be had, too. | 12 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-20-07-85 | www.giuseppezanottidesign.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
This is the place for vampy stilettoes, strappy flats, and butch biker boots. Recent Belle de Jour-inspired kitten heels are a nice respite from the famous mile-high styles that put Choo on the map. Beautiful bags, clutches, and small leather items in animal print, reptile, and metallics are deservedly popular. | 34 av. Montaigne, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-47-23-03-39 | www.jimmychoo.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
The Duchess of Cambridge started a run on these handmade rubber boots from Normandy, a staple of French equestrians, hunters, and yachtsmen since 1927. Now they’re catnip for fashion insiders on several continents, but this is the only boutique dedicated to them. There are more than a dozen models to choose from; buy boots off the shelf or made to order based on the width of your foot and calf. | 88 av. des Ternes, 17e, Champs-Élysées | 01-45-72-44-87 | www.lechameau.com | Station: Porte Maillot.
Fodor’s Choice | Louis Vuitton.
Louis Vuitton has spawned a voracious fan base from Texas to Tokyo with its mix of classic leather goods and saucy revamped versions orchestrated by Marc Jacobs, who made an exit in late 2013 after 16 years with the company. Jacobs left tall boots to fill, but Nicholas Ghesquière—a daring designer who single-handedly resurrected the Balenciaga label—is the man to do it. If his latest collection is any indication, Ghesquière will be taking the legendary luxe label to new heights, mixing architecturally precise volumes with a softer, sexier look. | 101 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8e, Champs-Élysées | 01-53-57-52-00 | www.louisvuitton.com | Station: George V.
Best Shopping in Paris
Paris’s legendary shopping destinations draw people from the world over, but perhaps a deeper allure lies in lesser-known attractions: the city harbors scores of hidden neighborhoods and shopping streets—some well traveled, others just emerging. Each has a distinct style that reflects the character of the particular quarter. Here are a few of Paris’s most satisfying and très branché (very trendy) enclaves.
Rue Keller, Rue Charonne (11e). These streets are a haven for young clothing designers. Stylish housewares, jewelry, and art galleries augment the appeal. Start at the end of Rue Keller where it intersects with Rue de la Roquette: walk the length of this short street, then make a right onto Rue Charonne and meander all the way to Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine.
Rue Oberkampf (11e). At the outer edge of the Marais, this street is well known among youthful fashionistas for its eclectic atmosphere and bohemian flavor. High-end jewelry and of-the-minute boutiques are clustered amid stylish wine bars and comfy cafés.
Rue des Abbesses, Rue des Martyrs (18e and 9e). In the shadow of lofty Sacré-Coeur, Rue des Abbesses is studded with shops focused on anything from vintage jewelry and unique clothing to antiques and upscale gardening tools. Turn onto Rue des Martyrs and discover a burgeoning scene, with hot boutiques scattered among inviting cafés, and superb gourmet shops.
Rues Étienne Marcel, du Jour, du Louvre, and Montmartre (2e). Just around the corner from teeming Les Halles, this area is jam-packed with big names (like Yohji Yamamoto and Agnès b), but it also boasts a multitude of smaller boutiques (such as Shine) that are popular with hip young Parisians.
Rue du Bac (7e). After browsing at Le Bon Marché turn the corner at the Grand Epicerie and stroll down this most bountiful of shopping streets. Old and well established, it’s where the Paris beau monde finds everything from elegant linens and home furnishings to any item of apparel a grownup or child could possibly want.
Rue Vavin (6e). One of Paris’s epicenters for outfitting those hopelessly chic Parisian children, this street is lined with boutiques for tots. If you have the kids in tow, follow up with a pony ride at the Luxembourg Gardens (weekends and Wednesday afternoon only). Jewelry stores, clothing stores, and Jean-Paul Hévin (one of Paris’s top chocolatiers) give adults plenty to love, too.
Rue Pont Louis Philippe (4e). Known for a plethora of elegant paper and stationery shops, the street also has boutiques selling antiques, musical instruments, artisan jewelry, and classy clothing. It’s a great spot for window-shopping en route from the Marais to Ile St-Louis.
Rue Francois Miron (from St-Paul métro to Place St-Gervais, 4e). Many overlook this lovely street at the Marais’s Seine-side fringes, but there’s plenty to make a wander worthwhile. Parisians in the know head here for spices, top-notch designs for the home, antiques, jewelry, pretty cafés, and much more. Bonus: Two of the oldest houses in Paris are here; they’re the medieval half-timbered ones.
Dip into the pools at Villa Thalgo to experience the benefits of a spa marin (literally, sea spa) in the heart of Paris. Take advantage of its aquagym, fitness room, and hammams (€100, half-day pass), or opt for an Aquazen massage with warm-water balloons to de-stress your sore spots (€110, 50 minutes). | 8 av. Raymond Poincaré, 16e, Trocadéro | 01-45-62-00-20 | www.villathalgo.com | Station: Trocadéro.
AROUND THE LOUVRE
The flagship stores of big luxury brands rub elbows here with independent boutiques and concept stores notable for their fashion cachet. The fabulous Rue St-Honoré—a bastion of Parisian chic—is the area’s retail spine, but the Marché St-Honoré and the Faubourg provide tempting detours. Whatever you do, don’t miss the gorgeous Palais-Royal gardens, where flashy fashion stars mix with the discrete purveyors of handmade gloves.
Antiques and Collectibles
Astier de Villatte.
Come here for tongue-in-chic interpretations of 18th-century table settings and furniture; live out your Baroque or Empire fancies with milk-white china sets and lots of mahogany. Moody candles and incense complete the atmosphere. | 173 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-74-13 | www.astierdevillatte.com | Station: Tuileries.
Annick Goutal sells its own line of signature scents, which come packaged in gilded gauze purses. Gardenia, Passion, Petite Chérie, and l’Eau d’Hadrien are perennial favorites. | 14 rue de Castiglione, 1er,Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-52-82 | www.annickgoutal.com | Station: Concorde.
This small, refined store is the brainchild of Terry de Gunzburg, Yves Saint Laurent’s former director of makeup, whose brand of ready-to-wear cosmetics is a favorite of French actresses and socialites. Upstairs, specialists create what de Gunzburg calls haute couleur: exclusive made-to-measure makeup tailored for each client (it’s very expensive; book far in advance). | 36 Galerie Véro-Dodat, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-44-76-00-76 | www.byterry.com | Station: Palais-Royal, Louvre.
Comme des Garçons Perfume Shop.
This shop is devoted to the ultraconceptual Japanese label’s perfumes, scented candles, and incense. It’s worth a visit simply to admire the whiter-than-white store design with pink-tinted lighting. | 23 pl. du Marché St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-47-03-15-03 | comme-des-garcons-parfum.com | Station: Tuileries.
Representing 90 artisanal perfumers, Jovoy is not only Paris’s largest independent purveyor of fragrances, but also the world’s. Owner François Hénin can often be found in the shop expounding on the unique qualities and fascinating histories of the fragrances, some of which date back hundreds of years. Many are exclusive to the boutique. The shop also carries fragrances for the home and a range of beautifully packaged scented candles. | 4 rue de Castiglione, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-40-20-06-19 | www.jovoyparis.com | Station: Tuileries, Concorde.
Fodor’s Choice | Les Salons du Palais-Royal Serge Lutens.
Every year Shiseido’s creative genius, Serge Lutens, dreams up two new fragrances, which are then sold exclusively in this boutique. Each is compellingly original, from the strong somptueux scents (often with musk and amber notes) to intense florals (Rose de Nuit). Bottles can be etched and personalized for sumptuous gifts. | Jardins du Palais-Royal, 142 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-49-27-09-09 | www.sergelutens.com | Station: Palais-Royal.
Books and Stationery
Dating back to 1520s Venice, this venerable bookstore opened in Paris in 1801 and was the first to specialize in English-language books. Its present location, across from the Tuileries Garden on Rue de Rivoli, opened in 1856, and the wood bookshelves, creaking floors, and hushed interior provide the perfect atmosphere for perusing Paris’s best collection of contemporary and classic greats in English and French, plus a huge selection of gorgeous art books. | 224 rue de Rivoli, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-76-07 | www.galignani.com | Station: Tuileries.
W. H. Smith.
This bookseller carries a multitude of travel and language books, cookbooks, plus fiction for adults and children. It also has the best selection of foreign magazines and newspapers in Paris (which you’re allowed to flip through without interruption—many magazine dealers in France aren’t so kind). | 248 rue de Rivoli, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-44-77-88-99 | www.whsmith.fr | Station: Concorde.
& Other Stories.
H&M’s latest upmarket “style-lab” covers all the major fashion bases while appealing to women of different tastes and ages. Unlike the minimalist COS—another H&M spawn—& Other Stories offers the kind of au courant looks and well-made basics that are beloved by urban sophisticates who wouldn’t be caught dead buying the parent brand but still want style on a budget. The shoe collection downstairs is a serious draw all on its own. Accessories, lingerie, and makeup are also available. | 277 rue Saint-Honoré, 8e, Faubourg St-Honoré | 01-53-32-85-05 | www.stories.com | Station: Concorde.
Fodor’s Choice | Acne Studios.
Justly famous for their sexy, derriere-shaping jeans, the Swedish label for men and women daringly mixes genders and genres in body-hugging or oversized asymmetric styles that rival some of the best catwalk looks. Standout shoes, boots, and accessories—all exhibiting the brand’s underplayed cool—are available, too. | 124 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-16-62 | www.acnestudios.com | Station:Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Fodor’s Choice | Chloé.
Much like the clothes it sells, Chloé’s flagship boutique is softly feminine and modern without being stark. Housed in an 18th-century mansion, its creamy-marble floors, gold sconces, and walls in the brand’s signature rosy beige are the perfect backdrop for designer Clare Waight Keller’s beautifully tailored yet fluid designs. Visitors are met with the kind of sincere attention that is all but extinct in most high-end Paris shops. Whether it’s for a handbag or a whole new wardrobe, VIP rooms and professional stylists are available to assist anyone who calls for an appointment. | 253 rue St-Honoré, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-55-04-03-30 | www.chloe.com | Station: Franklin-D.-Roosevelt.
This designer is deservedly lauded for her smart, urban clothes that unite youthful chic with solid designs; they also successfully transition over several seasons. The irresistible combination of classic looks, good tailoring, and affordability keeps loyal fans coming back year after year. | 1 rue du 29 Juillet, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-01-19 | www.claudiepierlot.com | Station: Étienne Marcel.
This is the place for ridiculously cool fashion. So the staff barely deigns to make eye contact—who cares! There are ultramodern trinkets and trifles of all kinds: from Lego-link alarm clocks to snappy iPad cases and tongue in chic sportswear—and that’s just on the ground floor. The first floor has wearable wares from every internationally known and unknown designer with street cred. The basement has a water bar, plus a small restaurant that’s good for a quick bite. | 213 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-55-35-33-90 | www.colette.fr | Station: Tuileries.
Cotélac gives feminine shapes a bohemian edge in earthy tones from azure to deep aubergine. The figure-skimming and frillier separates beg to be layered. | 284 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-47-03-21-14 | www.cotelac.fr | Station: Tuileries.
The fashion press consistently lauds these fluid, unconstrained, yet rigorously constructed clothes for men and women. A cut-wool cape cascades to the floor, a grass-green evening gown ripples like water, crisp cotton blouses and slouchy silk trousers remain stylish season after season. The beautiful modern-Baroque boutique also houses the diffusion line Silent, along with sleek accessories. | 54 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-45-27-09-30 | www.damirdoma.com | Station: Concorde.
The incredibly charming Didier Ludot inspired a fervent craze for vintage couture, and riffling through his racks of French-made pieces from the ‘20s to the ‘80s can yield wonderful Chanel suits, Balenciaga dresses, and Hermès scarves. Ludot has two boutiques in Galerie Montpensier: No. 20 houses his amazing vintage couture collection, while No. 24 has vintage ready-to-wear and accessories. Across the gardens, at No. 125 Galerie de Valois, La Petite Robe Noire sells his own vintage-inspired black dresses as well as his coffee-table book—which is aptly titled The Little Black Dress. | Jardins du Palais-Royal, 20-24 Galerie Montpensier, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-96-06-56 | www.didierludot.fr | Station: Palais-Royal.
Gabrielle Geppert carries only the big guys—Chanel, Hermès, YSL, Vuitton—and what’s here is exactly what Gabrielle likes: from a 1950s-era fully sequined cape and ‘60s jet-beaded minidress to an ‘80s number right at home under the disco ball. Geppert’s personal line of shades, handbags, and jewelry is at the teensy boutique at No. 34. | 31-34 Galerie de Montpensier, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-61-53-52 | www.gabriellegeppert.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
L’Huillier cut his teeth at the ateliers of Balmain and Givenchy, and it shows. A wizard with silk in all its iterations (the joyously colored prints are L’Huillier’s own designs), you can find lively, sexy new interpretations of the wrap dress, along with rainbow-hue blouses, sexy empire-waist dresses, and velvet trench coats in jewel colors. | 138-139 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-49-26-07-07 | www.jeromelhuillier.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
When Azzaro saw his 1970s designs, now collector’s items, worn by stars like Nicole Kidman and Liz Hurley, he decided to update his best sellers. He’s a master of the dramatic dress: picture floor-length columns with jeweled collars and sheer gowns with strategically placed sequins. | 65 rue de Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-66-92-98 | www.azzaro-couture.com | Station: Concorde.
Lucien Pellat-Finet does cashmere that shakes up the traditional world of cable knits: here, sweaters for men, women, and children come in punchy colors and cheeky motifs. A psychedelic marijuana leaf may bounce across a sky-blue crewneck; a crystal-outlined skull could grin from a sleeveless top. The cashmere is wonderfully soft—and the prices are accordingly high. | 231 rue Saint Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Rivoli | 01-42-22-22-77 | www.lucienpellat-finet.com | Station: Tuileries.
Maison Martin Margiela.
This famously elusive Belgian designer has earned a devoted following for his avant-garde styling and for his innovative technique, from spiraling seams to deconstructed shirts. Women’s fashion is sold at 25 bis, rue de Montpensier, menswear at No. 23 (Passage Potier). Look for Ligne 6—Margiela’s cool, secondary line of more casual (and less expensive) clothes for women—in his store at 22 place du Marché Saint-Honoré. | 23 and 25 bis, rue de Montpensier, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-40-15-07-55 | www.maisonmartinmargiela.fr | Station: Palais-Royal.
Maje brings a certain ease to looking great. The designs are original, up-to-the-moment, and not wildly expensive—that’s why the popular label has expanded exponentially. Seasonal collections include minis in every form; lean, peg-leg trousers in denim and leather; and some of the best outerwear around. | 267 rue St-Honore, 2e, Louvre/Palais-Royal | 01-42-96-84-93 | www.maje.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
His singular take on 20th-century American classics—from flapper-style (big flowers, unstructured lines, drop waists, flounces) to 1960s prom (empire waists, copious tulle) with a bit of motorcycle chic thrown in—has made Marc Jacobs the darling of American style. Metallics appear in most every collection, as do breezy, feminine fabrics, and lots of layers. Ready-to-wear is at Palais-Royal. The secondary line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, is sold in his eponymous store at 19 place du Marché St-Honoré. Menswear and accessories are at both. | 56-62 Galerie de Montpensier, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-55-35-02-60 | www.marcjacobs.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Jardin du Palais-Royal
Paris’s secret oasis no more. With the arrival of Marc Jacobs, Rick Owens, and Stella McCartney, the palace and gardens of the Jardin du Palais-Royal officially join the ranks of fashion hot spots. Not that it ever lacked allure; those in the know have come here for fabulous shoes, artisanal perfumes, and vintage haute couture for years. Shopping in Paris is no common experience, but shopping at the Palais-Royal—under its neat rows of lime and chestnut trees and vaulted arcades—is almost worship.
Entering the gardens from Rue St-Honoré, you’ll see the Colonnes de Buren, a series of sculpted columns, covering the first inner courtyard. Galerie de Montpensier is the long arcade to your left; Galerie de Valois flanks the gardens to your right.
Galerie de Valois
No. 156: Pierre Hardy: head-turning heels that tantalize while they flatter, with some of Paris’s best bags to match (01-42-60-59-75).
No. 142: Les Salons du Palais-Royal Serge Lutens: perfumes and exclusive scents from the titular “nose” par excellence are sold in this jewel-like boutique (01-49-27-09-09).
No. 138-139: Jérôme l’Huillier: color-saturated silks in sexy, mod styles, with sleek new takes on the wrap dress (01-49-26-07-07).
No. 130-133: Rick Owens: over-the-top rock-star glamour with an avant-garde edge, he makes serious fashion waves worldwide (01-40-20-42-52).
No. 128-129: Maison Fabre: proving that practice makes perfect, it’s been crafting some of the most beautiful gloves in the world since 1924 (01-42-60-75-88).
No. 124: Acne Studios: Swedish design for men and women who demand it all—style, fit, comfort, and plenty of cool (01-42-60-16-62).
No. 114-121: Stella McCartney: McCartney has A-List cred, and her wearable-yet-sexy separates are a must in any well-appointed wardrobe (01-47-03-03-80).
Galerie de Montpensier
No. 56-62: Marc Jacobs: from flapper to prom queen to motorcycle moll—Jacobs delivers an updated take on iconic American style (01-55-35-02-60).
No. 31-34: Gabrielle Geppert: vintage haute couture at its best: why buy a knockoff when you can have the original? Bags, jewelry, and sunglasses, too (01-42-61-53-52).
No. 20-24: Didier Ludot: vintage French couture from the ’20s to the ’80s; plus his personal spin on the little black dress across the gardens at 125 Galerie de Valois (01-42-96-06-56).
This Faubourg St-Honoré boutique dispenses with the designer’s Modernist ethos in favor of a neo-Baroque sensibility—and it influences everything from the velvet wallpaper to, perhaps, a lavish pair of ruby slippers. Although the shoes and accessories scream glitz, the clothes still have a sleek refinement, with the designer’s notorious tension between minimalism and opulence. | 92 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 8e, Faubourg St-Honoré | 01-58-62-53-20 | www.miumiu.com | Station: Miromesnil.
Rick Owens expertly finessed the jump from L.A. rock-star chic to Paris offbeat elegance. Lately defined more by glamour than grunge, his lush fabrics and asymmetrical designs have evolved to a new level of artistry—and wearability. Owens still loves a paradox (shrouding while revealing), and mixes high luxury with a bit of the tooth and the claw. You’ll also find shoes, furs, jewely, and accessories. | 130-133 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-40-20-42-52 | www.rickowens.eu | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized women’s wear in the 1970s, putting pants in couture shows for the first time. His safari jackets, “le smoking” suits, Russian-boho collections, and tailored Belle de Jour suits are considered fashion landmarks. Since taking the helm in 2012, Hedi Slimane has managed to stir things by renaming the brand and nose-tweaking fashion journalists. Despite the controversy, there’s no doubt he’s returned the brand to its roots, drawing praise for his inspired collections. The menswear shop, at No. 32 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, features new and sleekly beautiful riffs on Saint Laurent’s classic satin-lapel tuxes. | 38 and 32 rue du Faubourg St- Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-65-74-59 | www.ysl.com | Station: Concorde.
Since launching her own label in 2001, Stella McCartney has steadily built on her success. Season after season, she channels the prevailing mood into innovative takes on classics like the boyfriend blazer, the silk sheath, and the cigarette jean. The clothes flatter real women, and the steep prices can be justified by their staying power (and the fact that nothing was killed in the making). | 114-121 Galerie de Valois, 1er,Palais Royal | 01-47-03-03-80 | www.stellamccartney.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Tara Jarmon has her bases covered when it comes to that coveted French élan: sleek designs, excellent quality, luxe fabrics, and prices well within the stratosphere. With styles that vie with the high-profile designers, and accessories to match, this label is fast becoming the chic Parisian’s wardrobe essential. | 400 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-40-15-02-13 | www.tarajarmon.com | Station: Concorde.
Expect a new brew of feminine dressing from Vanessa Bruno: some androgynous pieces (skinny pants) plus delicacy (filmy tops) with a dash of whimsy (lace insets). Separates are coveted for their sleek styling, gorgeous colors, and unerring sexiness. Wardrobe staples include perfectly proportioned cotton tops and sophisticated dresses. Athé, the diffusion line, flies off the racks, so if you see something you love, grab it. Bruno’s shoes and accessories are the cherry on the cake: her ultrapopular sequin-striped totes inspired an army of knockoffs. | 12 rue de Castiglione, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-61-44-60 | www.vanessabruno.com | Station: Pyramides.
Ventilo brings cool ethnic style to the city. Where else can you find a bright-fuchsia silk-velvet bolero jacket with sequin appliqué or a modern Mongol leather coat lined in fur? There’s also room for classics to mix and match, such as handmade wool turtlenecks and a pleated raincoat that fit perfectly. | 27 bis, rue du Louvre, 2e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-44-76-82-95 | www.ventilo.fr | Station: Louvre.
Pieces by Veronique Leroy highlight a woman’s silhouette while paying close attention to details, like open seam work and perfect draping. Slinky silk-jersey dresses, form-flattering sweaters in dusky hues, and lacy dresses with come-hither necklines help explain her current darling-of-the-fashion-world status. | 10 rue d’Alger, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-49-26-93-59 | www.veroniqueleroy.com | Station: Tuileries.
Food and Treats
Forty masterful varieties of chocolate and some of the best pastries in Paris earned Jean-Paul Hévin his world-class chocolatier status. Devotees will be pleased to know that there’s also an outpost near the Luxembourg Gardens at 3 rue Vavin. | 231 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-55-35-35-96 | www.jeanpaulhevin.com | Station: Louvre/Tuileries.
Founded in 1862, Ladurée oozes period atmosphere—even at the big Champs-Élysées branch (No. 75)—but nothing beats the original tearoom on Rue Royale, with its pint-size tables and frescoed ceiling. Ladurée claims a familial link to the invention of the macaron, and appropriately, there’s a fabulous selection of these lighter-than-air cookies. Classic flavors include pistachio, salted caramel, and coffee; others, like violet-black currant, chestnut, and lime basil, are available seasonally. When you’ve worked your way through the macaron menu, try a cup of the famously rich hot chocolate with a flaky mille-feuille. Ladurée’s stylish boxes alone are worth the purchase; filled with sweet treats, they make memorable gifts. | 16 rue Royale, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-21-79 | www.laduree.com | Station: Madeleine.
Never mind the creaky stairs: E. Dehillerin has been around for almost 200 years and clearly knows its business. The huge range of professional cookware in enamel, stainless steel, or fiery copper is gorgeous. Julia Child was a regular. | 18-20 rue Coquillière, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-36-53-13 | www.e-dehillerin.fr | Station: Les Halles.
Gien has been making fine china since 1821. The faience spans traditional designs—such as those inspired by Italian majolica, blue-and-white delftware, and French toile—as well as contemporary looks. | 18 rue de l’Arcade, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-66-52-32 | www.gien.com | Station: Madeleine.
La Chalcographie du Louvre.
More than 13,000 prints from the Louvre’s collection can be had at the museum’s own print shop for a relatively minor investment. The most popular images are in stock, easy to view, and can walk right out with you. | Louvre museum store, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-40-20-59-35 | www.chalcographiedulouvre.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Jewelry and Accessories
This is not a boutique for wallflowers. Designer Vincent Avenches’s original, sculptural jewelry demands to be noticed, as do the women who wear it. Original pieces are crafted with consummate skill, using the methods of the great historic jewelrymakers of France, but with results that are utterly contemporary. | 43 Galerie Montpensier, 1e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-72-81-73 | www.vincent-avenches.com | Station:Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Fodor’s Choice | Cartier.
Cartier flashes its jewels at more than half a dozen boutiques in the city. Longtime favorites such as the Trinity rings and Tank watches compete for attention with the newer Panthère, Love, and Caresse d’Orchidées collections. | 23 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-44-55-32-20 | www.cartier.fr | Station: Tuileries, Concorde.
This wonderful, family-run cavern teeming with artists, actors, models, and jewelry lovers offers an Ali Baba-ish shopping experience. You’ll need to take your time though, because the walls are filled with row upon row of antique jewels from every era, more modern secondhand jewelry, and drawer upon drawer of vintage one-of-a-kinds. | 362 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-95-23 | www.darys-bijouterie-paris.fr | Station: Tuileries.
Fodor’s Choice | Alice Cadolle.
Selling lingerie to Parisians since 1889, Alice Cadolle offers some of the city’s most sumptuous couture undergarments. Ready-to-wear bras, corsets, and sleepwear fill the Rue Cambon boutique; made-to-measure service is provided at 255 rue St-Honoré. | 4 rue Cambon, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-94-22 | www.cadolle.com | Station: Concorde.
Fodor’s Choice | Chantal Thomass.
The legendary lingerie diva is back with a Pillow Talk-meets-Louis XIV-inspired boutique. This is French naughtiness at its best, striking the perfect balance between playful and seductive. Sheer silk negligees edged in Chantilly lace and lascivious bra-and-corset sets punctuate the signature line. | 211 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-40-56 | www.chantalthomass.fr | Station: Tuileries.
Fifi Chachnil girls are real boudoir babes, with a fondness for quilted-satin bed jackets and lingerie in candy-land colors. The look is cheerfully sexy, with checkered push-up bras, frilled white knickers, and peach-satin corsets. | 231 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-61-21-83 | fifichachnil.com | Station: Tuileries.
Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods
This place dates back to a time when the quality of the gloves said it all. Supple python or cherry-lacquered lambskin may not have been the rage in 1892 when this eminent glove maker was founded, but its 100-plus years in the business add up to unparalleled style and fit. | 12 rue de Castiglione, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-49-26-91-43 | www.causse-gantier.fr | Station: Tuileries.
These shoes carry their own red carpet with them, thanks to their trademark crimson soles. Whether tasseled, embroidered, or strappy, in Charvet silk or shiny patent leather, the heels are always perfectly balanced. No wonder they set off such legendary legs as Tina Turner’s and Gwyneth Paltrow’s. The men’s shop is next door at No. 17, and the women’s pop-up store (Christian Louboutin Beauté, featuring his new cosmetics line) is around the corner at Galerie Véro-Dodat. The glamorous No. 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique carries a full line of women’s shoes and accessories. | 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1er, Around the Louvre | 01-01-19-19-19 | www.christianlouboutin.com | Station: Palais-Royal.
These colorful totes are the choice of royals, blue bloods, and the like (clients have included Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Gregory Peck, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor). Parisians swear by their durability and longevity; they’re copious enough for a mile-long baguette, and durable enough for a magnum of Champagne. What’s more, they easily transition into ultrachic beach or diaper bags. | 233 rue St-Honoré, 1er,Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-57-04 | www.goyard.com | Station: Tuileries.
The go-to for those who prefer their logo discrete yet still crave instant recognition, Hermès was established as a saddlery in 1837; then went on to create the eternally chic Kelly (named for Grace Kelly) and Birkin (named for Jane Birkin) handbags. The silk scarves are legendary for their rich colors and intricate designs, which change yearly. Other accessories are also extremely covetable: enamel bracelets, dashing silk-twill ties, and small leather goods. During semiannual sales, in January and July, prices are slashed up to 50%, and the crowds line up for blocks. | 24 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-40-17-46-00 | www.hermes.com | Station: Concorde.
A household name in France for 100 years, Lancaster has a reputation for style and craftsmanship. Its bags are chic and sporty, with an emphasis on practicality; and all the classic models are available in this spaceship-modern boutique. Look for the popular cross-body Versailles bag (it’s made of patent leather or soft cowhide and comes in a rainbow of colors), along with exclusive designs sold only here, some in genuine reptile. | 422 rue St-Honoré, 8e, Faubourg St-Honoré | 01-42-28-88-88 | www.lancaster-paris.com | Station: Concorde.
Until you’ve eased into an exquisite pair of gloves handcrafted by Fabre, you probably haven’t experienced the sensation of having a second skin far superior to your own. Founded in 1924, this is one of Paris’s historic gantiers. Styles range from classic to haute: picture elbow-length croc leather, coyote-fur mittens, and peccary driving gloves. | 128-129 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-75-88 | www.maisonfabre.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Designed to evoke a wheel, as in “we’re going places, baby,” this gleaming boutique showcases the new Moynat, while evoking the brand’s 19th- and early-20th-century glory days, when Pauline Moynat was the queen of luggage design. Women’s bags are sleek, expertly engineered, and exceedingly beautiful (the reversible leather tote in either bone/coral or mocha/taupe is an instant classic). Men’s briefcases are convex on one side to avoid bumping legs: an ingenious design that harkens back to the advent of automobile travel, when Moynat’s trunks were curved to hug a car roof. Crocodile bags, silk scarves, and a thriving bespoke service are cherries on the cake. | 348 rue Saint Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-47-03-83-90 | moynat.com | Station: Tuileries.
Pierre Hardy completes the triumvirate (with Vivier and Louboutin) of anointed Paris shoe designers. Armed with a pedigree—Dior, Hermès, Balenciaga—Hardy opened his own boutique in 2003 and made serious waves. Luxe bags are ever popular and the shoes are unmistakable: sky-scraping platforms and wedges or demure kitten heels double as sculpture with breathtaking details. His sensational bags became immediate must-haves. | Palais-Royal Gardens, 156 Galerie de Valois, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-60-59-75 | www.pierrehardy.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Fodor’s Choice | Renaud Pellegrino.
Just steps away from the Palais-Royal, Renaud Pellegrino is a black-book address for style icons like Catherine Deneuve and Paloma Picasso, who eschew status labels in favor of individuality and staying power. A black lace-over-leather bag or an azure tote with tiny silver grommets brings glamour to daytime looks, and a Mondrian-esque patchwork of a silk-satin adds magnificence to evening wear. | 149 rue St-Honoré, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-42-61-75-32 | www.renaudpellegrino.com | Station: Palais-Royal-Musée du Louvre.
Known for decades for his Pilgrim-buckle shoes and inventive heels, Roger Vivier’s name is being resurrected through the creativity of über-Parisienne Inès de la Fressange and the expertise of shoe designer Bruno Frisoni. The results are easily some of the best shoes in town: leather boots that mold to the calf perfectly, towering rhinestone-encrusted or feathered platforms for evening, and vertiginous crocodile pumps. | 29 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 8e, Louvre/Tuileries | 01-53-43-00-85 | www.rogervivier.com | Station: Concorde.
Built in 1826, this beautifully restored, glass-ceilinged gallery has painted medallions and copper pillars, plus boutiques selling antiques, contemporary art, accessories, and more. Christian Louboutin is an anchor tenant. At what is now the Café de l’Époque, just at the gallery’s entrance, French writer Gérard de Nerval took his last drink before heading to Châtelet to hang himself. (See Chapter 5, Around the Louvre.) | 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, 1er, Louvre/Tuileries | Station: Louvre.
Fodor’s Choice | Galerie Vivienne.
Located between the Bourse and the Palais-Royal, Galerie Vivienne is the most glorious glass-capped arcade in Paris. The 19th-century beauty is home to an array of interesting luxury shops as well as a lovely tearoom (A Priori Thé) and a terrific wineshop (Cave Legrand Filles et Fils). Don’t leave without checking out the Jean-Paul Gaultier boutique at 6 rue Vivienne. | 4 rue des Petits-Champs, 2e, Around the Louvre | www.galerie-vivienne.com | Station: Bourse.
Anne Sémonin sells skin-care products made out of seaweed and trace elements, as well as essential oils that are popular with fashion models. | 2 rue des Petits-Champs, 2e, Les Halles | 01-42-60-94-66 | www.annesemonin.com | Station: Palais-Royal.
This new concept store set out to help tackle the dilemma of finding just the right perfume by offering a personalized service to help identify your ideal fragrance. A bilingual specialist takes you through a seven-step diagnostic to identify your olfactory profile—then the smelling begins. With all there is to choose from, one never leaves unsatisfied. You may also browse hard-to-find lines of luxe body lotions, face serums, bath gels, scented candles, and yummy laundry soaps. Fans can keep up with promotions and in-store events via the monthly “noseletter.”|20 rue Bachaumont, 2e, Les Halles | 01-40-26-46-03 | Station:Etienne-Marcel.
Agnès b embodies the quintessential French approach to easy but stylish dressing. There are many branches, and the clothes are also sold in department stores, but for the fullest range go to Rue du Jour, where Agnès takes up much of the street (women’s and children’s wear is at No. 6, menswear at No. 3). For women, classics include sleek black-leather jackets, flattering black jersey separates, and trademark wide-stripe T-shirts. Children love the two-tone T-shirts proclaiming their age. And the stormy-gray velour or corduroy suits you see on those slouchy, scarf-clad men? Agnès b. | 3 and 6 rue du Jour, 1er, Les Halles | 01-42-33-04-13 | europe.agnesb.com | Station: Châtelet Les Halles.
This is a haven for fans of raw denim. It, uniquely, stocks the designs of the Dutch-based label G-Star, whose highly desirable jeans have replaced Levi’s as the ones to be seen in. You’ll also find military-inspired clothing, bags, and T-shirts. | 46 rue Étienne Marcel, 2e, Les Halles | 01-42-21-44-33 | www.g-star.com | Station: Étienne Marcel.
Kokon To Zaï.
Kokon To Zaï is a Japanese expression to sum up opposing extremes (such as hot and cold, young and old). It’s also a hip boutique selling the work of more than 20 young designers, and now their own label, KTZ, as well as jewelry, shoes, and accessories. | 48 rue Tiquetonne, 2e, Les Halles | 01-42-36-92-41 | www.kokontozai.co.uk | Station: Étienne Marcel.
A master of the drape, fold, and twist, Yohji Yamamoto made his name in the 1980s. The design legend favors predominantly black clothes that are both functional and edgy. A canny fashion investment, these pieces never go out of style. You’ll find ready-to-wear for men and women at the Louvre boutique, along with the Y’s casual line. | 25 rue du Louvre, 1er, Les Halles | 01-42-21-42-93 | www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp | Station: Étienne Marcel.
Short for Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, BHV houses an enormous basement hardware store that sells everything from doorknobs to cement mixers and has to be seen to be believed. The fashion offerings for men, women, and kids have been totally revamped, with many of the top labels and a fabulous, not-too-crowded lingerie department on the second floor. But BHV is most noteworthy for its high-quality home-decor items, electronics, and office supplies. If you’re looking for typically French household goods (like those heavy, gold-rimmed café sets, gorgeous French linens, or Savon de Marseille), this is your ticket. The extensive men’s store is across the street at 36 rue de la Verrerie. | 52-64 rue de Rivoli, 4e, Les Halles | 09-77-40-14-00 | www.bhv.fr | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
Parisians flock to FNAC—the high-profile French “cultural” department store—for a huge selection of music and books, as well as photo, TV, and audio equipment. This centrally located branch is among the biggest. | Forum des Halles, 1er, Les Halles | 08-25-02-00-20 | www.fnac.com | Station: Les Halles.
This is where Parisian chefs come for their kitchen needs—from plates and glasses to pans and wooden spoons. The quality is excellent and the prices reasonable. | 48 rue Montmartre, 2e, Les Halles | 01-42-33-71-65 | Station: Étienne Marcel.
Princesse Tam Tam.
Princesse Tam Tam is the go-to for affordable and beguiling bra-and-panty sets that combine sex appeal and playfulness. Designed for mileage as much as allure, the softer-than-soft cotton wrap tops and nighties, lace-edged silk tap pants, camisoles, slips, and adorable separates for the boudoir are comfortable and comely. | 5 rue Montmartre, 1er, Les Halles | 01-45-08-50-69 | www.princessetamtam.com | Station: Les Halles.
This old-fashioned market street has evolved into a chic bobo zone; its stalls now thrive amid stylish cafés and the oldest oyster counter in Paris. | 1er, Les Halles | Station: Châtelet Les Halles.
Passage du Grand-Cerf.
Opened in 1825, this pretty passage couvert has regained the interest of Parisians. La Parisette, a small boudoir-pink space at No. 1, sells fun accessories, and Marci Noum, at No. 4, riffs on street fashion. Silk bracelets, crystals, and charms can be nabbed at Eric & Lydie and Satellite. (See Chapter 5, Around the Louvre.) | 145 rue St-Denis, 2e, Les Halles | Station: Étienne Marcel.
Brought to you by the creators of the all-natural Nuxe skin-care line, this hip spa in a 17th-century cellar has arched corridors, cozy treatment rooms, and a subterranean pool—all of which were beautifully refurbished in 2014. Try the rêverie orientale: a two-and-a-half-hour hammam, body scrub, and detoxifying wrap, plus massage (€220). There is a second branch in the Printemps department store and another in the Hotel Square in the 16e arrondissement. | 32-34 rue Montorgueil, 1er, Beaubourg/Les Halles | 01-42-36-65-65 | fr.nuxe.com/spa-nuxe-montorgueil | Station: Les Halles.
From the venerable old boutiques on Rue de la Paix to Paris’s great grands magasins on Boulevard Haussmann (namely Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps), there’s no shortage of shopping opportunities here. Once you add in the area’s elegant covered passages and the storied Drouot auction house, there is enough to keep you busy for a weekend, if not an entire week.
With branches throughout the city, this is the French dime store par excellence, stocking everyday items like French cosmetics, groceries, toys, typing paper, kitchen wares, and more. It also has a line of stylish, inexpensive, basic wearables for the whole family—particularly adorable kids’ clothes—and isn’t a bad place to stock up on French chocolate, jams, or confit de canard at reasonable prices. | 21 av. de l’Opéra, 1er,Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-61-78-08 | www.monoprix.fr | Station: Opéra.
Make Up For Ever.
Poised at the back of a courtyard, this store is a must-stop for makeup artists, models, actresses, and divas of all stripes. The riotous color selection includes hundreds of hues for foundation, eye shadow, powder, and lipstick. | 5 rue de la Boétie, 8e, Grands Boulevards | 01-53-05-93-30 | www.makeupforever.fr | Station: St-Augustin.
Anouschka has set up shop in her apartment (by appointment only, Monday to Saturday) and has rack upon rack of vintage clothing dating from the 1930s to the ‘80s. It’s the perfect place to find a ‘50s cocktail dress in mint condition or a mod jacket for him. A former model herself, she calls this a “designer laboratory,” and teams from top fashion houses often pop by looking for inspiration. | 6 av. du Coq, 9e,Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-48-74-37-00 | Station: St-Lazare, Trinité.
The Parisian equivalent of a Savile Row tailor, Charvet is a conservative, aristocratic institution. It’s famed for made-to-measure shirts, exquisite ties, and accessories; for garbing John F. Kennedy, Charles de Gaulle, and the Duke of Windsor; and for its regal address. Although the exquisite silk ties, in hundreds of colors and patterns, and custom-made shirts for men are the biggest draw, refined pieces for women and girls, as well as adorable miniatures for boys, round out the collection. | 28 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-60-30-70 | www.charvet.com | Station: Opéra.
Eric Bompard provides stylish Parisians with luxury cashmeres in every color, style, and weight; yarns range from light as a feather to a hefty 50-ply for the jaunty caps. The store caters to men and women (there are some kids’ models, too). Styles are updated seasonally yet tend toward the classic. | 75 bd. Haussmann, 8e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-68-00-73 | www.eric-bompard.com | Station: Miromesnil.
A retail institution, Au Printemps is actually made up of three major stores: Printemps Maison (with home furnishings on four refurbished floors), Printemps Homme (featuring six levels of menswear), and fashion-focused Printemps Mode (which has everything à la mode, from couture to teen trends). Be sure to check out the beauty area, with the Nuxe spa, hair salons, and seemingly every beauty product known to woman under one roof. The luxurious new Printemps Louvre—in the Carousel du Louvre, at the underground entrance to the museum, across from I.M. Pei’s inverted pyramid—carries fine leather goods, accessories, watches, and beauty products; fittingly, it also hosts revolving art exhibitions. | 64 bd. Haussmann, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-82-50-00 | www.printemps.com | Station: Havre Caumartin, Opéra; RER: Auber.
Galeries Lafayette is one of those places that you wander into unawares, leaving hours later a poorer and humbler person. Inside its flagship building at 40 boulevard Haussmann, a Belle Époque stained-glass dome caps the world’s largest perfumery. The store bulges with thousands of designers, and free 25-minute fashion shows are held Monday and Friday at 3 pm in the upstairs café to showcase their wares (reservations are a must: call 01-42-82-30-25 or email firstname.lastname@example.org). Another big draw is the comestibles department, stocked with everything from herbed goat cheese to Iranian caviar. Just across the street at 35 boulevard Haussmann is Galeries Lafayette Maison, which focuses on goods for the fashionable home. The Montparnasse branch is a pale shadow of the Boulevard Haussmann behemoths. | 35-40 bd. Haussmann, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-82-34-56 | www.galerieslafayette.com | Station: Chaussée d’Antin, Opéra, Havre Caumartin.
Food and Treats
À la Mère de Famille.
This enchanting shop is well versed in French regional specialties as well as old-fashioned bonbons, chocolates, marzipan, and more. | 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-47-70-83-69 | www.lameredefamille.com | Station: Cadet.
The most iconic of Parisian food stores is expanding globally, but its flagship is still behind the Madeleine church. Established in 1886, Fauchon sells renowned pâté, honey, jelly, tea, and private-label Champagne. Expats come for hard-to-find foreign foods (think U.S. pancake mix or British lemon curd), while those with a sweet tooth make a beeline to the pâtisserie for airy, ganache-filled macarons. There’s also a café for a quick bite. Be prepared, though: prices can be eye-popping—marzipan fruit for €95 a pound? | 26 pl. de la Madeleine, 8e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-70-39-38-00 | www.fauchon.com | Station: Madeleine.
Established in 1854, Hédiard gained fame in the 19th century for its high-quality imported spices. These—along with rare teas and beautifully packaged house brands of jam, mustard, and cookies—continue to make excellent gifts. | 21 pl. de la Madeleine, 8e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-43-12-88-88 | www.hediard.fr | Station: Madeleine.
Founded in 1830, Christofle has fulfilled all kinds of silver wishes, from a silver service for the Orient Express to a gigantic silver bed. Come for timeless table settings, vases, jewelry boxes, and more. | 24 rue de la Paix, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-65-62-43 | www.christofle.com | Station: Opéra.
Jewelry and Accessories
One of Paris’s most exclusive jewelers, Alexandre Reza is first and foremost a gemologist. He travels the world looking for the finest stones and then works them into stunning pieces, many of which are replicas of jewels of historical importance. | 21 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-61-51-21 | www.alexandrereza.com | Station: Opéra.
Chanel Jewelry feeds off the iconic design elements of the pearl-draped designer: witness the quilting (reimagined for gold rings), camellias (now brooches), and shooting stars (used for her first jewelry collection in 1932, now appearing as diamond rings). | 18 pl. Vendôme, 1er, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-40-98-55-55 | www.chanel.com | Station: Tuileries, Opéra.
Just around the corner from Place Vendôme’s titan jewelers, Dinh Van thumbs its nose at in-your-face opulence. The look here is refreshingly spare. Best sellers include a hammered-gold-orb necklace and leather-cord bracelets joined with geometric shapes in white or yellow gold, some with pavé diamonds. | 16 rue de la Paix, 2e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-61-74-49 | www.dinhvan.com | Station:Opéra.
Erès revolutionized the bathing suit in the free-spirited ‘60s. Engineered to move freely with the body, these ingenious cuts liberated women from bones and padding. Lingerie followed in 1998, offering the same flawless craftsmanship and supreme comfort without sacrificing sexiness. | 2 rue Tronchet, 8e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-47-42-28-82 | www.eresparis.com | Station: Madeleine.
This market, near Parc Monceau, has Alsatian specialties and a terrific cheese shop. It’s closed Sunday afternoon and Monday. | 17e, Parc Monceau | Station: Villiers.
Passage des Panoramas.
Opened in 1800, Passage des Panoramas is the oldest extant arcade and has become a foodie paradise, with no less than five major gourmet destinations. | 11 bd. Montmartre, 2e, Grands Boulevards | Station:Opéra/Grands Boulevards.
Passage Jouffroy is full of eclectic shops selling toys, Asian furnishings, cinema posters, and more. Pain D’épices, at No. 29, specializes in dollhouse decor. | 10-12 bd. Montmartre, 9e, Grands Boulevards | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Across from Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau has shops carrying antique cameras, comic books, and engravings. Au Bonheur des Dames, at No. 8, has all things embroidery. | 4-6 rue de la Grange Batelière, 9e, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Fodor’s Choice | Pain d’Epices.
This shop has anything you can imagine for the French home (and garden) in miniature, including Lilliputian croissants, wine decanters, and minuscule instruments in their cases. Build-it-yourself dollhouses include a 17th-century town house and a boulangerie storefront. Upstairs are do-it-yourself teddy-bear kits and classic toys. | 29 Passage Jouffroy, 9e, Grands Boulevards | 01-47-70-08-68 | www.paindepices.fr | Station: Grands Boulevards.
Fodor’s Choice | Village JouéClub.
Le Passage des Princes—one of the city’s historic covered passages—is home to Paris’s most comprehensive toy store. Part of a large French chain, the two-level Village JouéClub carries all the usual suspects (Barbie, Disney, Hello Kitty, and the like) plus the better traditional European brands, including Vilac, Moulin Roty, and L’Atelier du Bois. It’s made up of more than 10 “shops,” each of which is dedicated to a different age group or toy genre. You’ll find virtually every kind of plaything here, so be prepared to linger. | 5 bd. des Italiens, 2e, Grands Boulevards | 01-53-45-41-41 | www.joueclub.fr | Station: Richelieu-Drouot.
Lavinia has the largest selection of wine in one spot in Europe—more than 6,000 wines and spirits from all over the world, ranging from the simple to the sublime. There are expert English-speaking sommeliers on-site to help you sort it all out, as well as a wine-tasting bar, a bookshop, and a restaurant. | 3-5 bd. de la Madeleine, 1er, Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-42-97-20-20 | www.lavinia.fr | Station: St-Augustin.
Les Caves Augé.
One of the best wineshops in Paris, Les Caves Augé has been in operation since 1850. It`s just the ticket, whether you’re looking for a rare vintage, a select Bordeaux, or a seductive Champagne for a tête-à-tête. English-speaking Marc Sibard is a well-known aficionado and an affable adviser. Check the website for a schedule of tastings—vintners set up on the sidewalk and the wine flows all day. | 116 bd. Haussmann, 8e,Opéra/Grands Boulevards | 01-45-22-16-97 | www.cavesauge.com | Station: St-Augustin.
To avoid an uphill climb, the Abbesses métro stop on Rue de la Vieuville is a good starting point for serious shoppers. From here, descend picturesque Rue des Martyrs all the way down to Notre Dame de Lorette: the route promises a cornucopia of captivating boutiques that sell everything from chic antiques and offbeat fashion to gourmet food.
A.P.C. opened its surplus store steps away from Sacré-Coeur. No need to wait for the sales; funky classics can be found here for a whopping 50% off. | 20 rue André del Sarte, 18e, Montmartre | 01-42-62-10-88 | www.apc.fr | Station: Château Rouge.
When Spree first opened, its mission was to give young designers a venue; it has since branched out to include fashion elites like Margiela, Isabel Marant, Golden Goose, and Christian Wijnants. The expertly chosen inventory seems almost curated. A great selection of accessories and jewelry, along with cool furniture and a revolving exhibition of artwork by international artists, complete the gallery feel. | 16 rue la Vieuville, 18e, Montmartre | 01-42-23-41-40 | www.spree.fr | Station: Abbesses.
Fodor’s Choice | Marché aux Puces St-Ouen (Clignancourt.)
This picturesque market on the city’s northern boundary—open Saturday and Sunday 9 to 6, Monday 10 to 5—still lures crowds, but its once-unbeatable prices are now a relic. Packed with antiques booths and brocante stalls, the century-old, miles-long labyrinth has been undergoing a mild renaissance lately: witness Village Vintage’s newly opened warehouses filled with midcentury-modern pieces at 77 rue des Rosiers, plus other buzz-worthy shops and galleries (some of which keep weekend-only hours). Destination eateries—including Philippe Starck’s hugely popular Ma Cocotte—are also attracting a hip Paris contingent. Arrive early to pick up the best loot, then linger over an excellent meal or apèro. Be warned, though: if there’s one place in Paris where you need to know how to bargain, this is it! If you’re arriving by métro, walk under the overpass and take the first left at the Rue de Rosiers to reach the center of the market. Note that stands selling dodgy odds and ends (think designer knockoffs and questionable gadgets) set up around the overpass. These blocks are crowded and gritty; be careful with your valuables. | 18e, Montmartre | www.marcheauxpuces-saintouen.com | Station: Porte de Clignancourt.
The Marais has stolen the show as the city’s hippest shopping destination—and for sheer volume it can’t be beat. Rue des Francs Bourgeois and Rue Vieille de Temple form the central retail axis from which the upper and lower Marais branch out. The newest frontier is its northeastern edge (the haut Marais), which is known for ultrastylish boutiques, vintage stores, and design ateliers.
Antiques and Collectibles
This clutch of streets, in the beautiful historic netherworld tucked between the fringes of the Marais and the banks of the Seine, has many antiques shops. | Enter from Rue St-Paul, 4e, Marais | www.levillagesaintpaul.com | Station: St-Paul.
L’Habilleur is a favorite with the fashion press and anyone looking for a deal. For women there’s a great selection from designers like Firma, Roberto Collina, and Giorgio Brato. Men can find elegant suits from Paul Smith at slashed prices. | 44 rue de Poitou, 3e, Marais | 01-48-87-77-12 | lhabilleur.fr | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart.
Fodor’s Choice | Merci.
The world’s most gorgeous charity shop was put together by the founders of the luxury kid’s line Bonpoint. Everything here is high-concept (the designer fashions, furniture, antiques, jewelry, and housewares have been plucked straight from top-tier designers), and it’s all offered at a discount. Five percent of the proceeds are earmarked to aid disadvantaged children in Madagascar. The store’s three cafés make lingering among Paris’s fashion elite a pleasure. | 111 bd. Beaumarchais, 3e, Marais | 01-42-77-00-33 | www.merci-merci.com | Station: St-Sebastien-Froissart.
Zadig & Voltaire Stock.
Here you’ll find new unsold stock from last season. There’s a great selection of beautiful cashmere sweaters, silk slip dresses, rocker jeans, and leather jackets, all in their signature luscious colors, for 40%-70% off. | 22 rue Bourg Tibourg, 4e, Marais | 01-44-59-39-62 | www.zadig-et-voltaire.com | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
L’Artisan Parfumeur is known for its own brand of scents for the home plus perfumes with names like Mûre et Musc (Blackberry and Musk). It also carries sumptuous shower gels and body lotions in the popular fragrances. | 32 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4e, Marais | 01-48-04-55-66 | www.artisanparfumeur.com | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
Books and Stationery
Comptoir de l’Image.
This is where designers John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, and Emanuel Ungaro stock up on old copies of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and The Face. You’ll also find trendy magazines like Dutch, Purple, and Spoon, plus designer catalogs from the past and rare photo books. Don’t go early: whimsical opening hours tend to start after lunch. | 44 rue de Sévigné, 3e, Marais | 01-42-72-03-92 | Station: St-Paul.
Bonton takes the prize for most-coveted duds among those who like to think of children as fashion accessories. (Moms may find some useful wardrobe pointers, too.) Sassy separates in saturated colors layer beautifully, look amazing, and manage to be perfectly kid-friendly. Bonton sells toys and furniture, too. | 5 bd. des Filles du Calvaire, 3e, Marais | 01-42-72-34-69 | www.bonton.fr | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Abou d’Abi Bazar.
A one-stop outfitter, Abou d’Abi Bazar organizes its collection of up-to-the-moment designers on color-coordinated racks that highlight the asymmetrical design of this opulent boutique. Artsy and bohemian all at once, there is plenty to covet here, from frothy Isabel Marant silk-organza blouses to sumptuous cashmere-blend tunics and satin shirtwaist dresses. Reasonably priced picks make it a desirable destination. | 125 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 01-42-71-13-26 | www.aboudabibazar.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
AB33 is like a sleek boudoir—complete with comfy chair and scented candles—and the clothes here are unabashedly feminine. Separates in luxury fabrics from top designers, irresistible silk lingerie, dainty jewelry, and a selection of accessories celebrate that certain French je ne sais quoi. | 33 rue Charlot, 3e, Marais | 01-42-71-02-82 | ab33.fr | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Fodor’s Choice | Azzedine Alaïa.
Thanks to his perfectly proportioned “king of cling” dresses, Azzedine Alaïa is considered a master at his game. You don’t have to be under 20 to look good in his garments. Tina Turner wears them well, as does every other beautiful woman with the courage and the curves. His boutique-workshop-apartment is covered with artwork by Julian Schnabel and is not the kind of place you casually wander into out of curiosity: the sales staff immediately makes you feel awkward in that distinctive Parisian way. Think $3,500 is too much for a dress? The Alaïa stock store (same building, different entrance) takes 50% off last season’s styles, samples, and gently worn catwalk items. Access it at 18 rue de la Verrerie. | 7 rue de Moussy, 4e, Marais | 01-42-72-30-69 | www.alaia.fr | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
The Broken Arm.
Like the ready-made Duchamp “artwork” for which it is named, The Broken Arm projects a minimalist cool that puts the concept back in concept store. A hypercurated selection of A-list brands for men and women includes vivid separates from the likes of Phillip Lim, Raf Simons, and the sublime Christophe Lemaire. A choice selection of objects and accessories (books, hats, shoes, jewelry, vases, leather goods) elevates the everyday to art. | 12 rue Perrée, 3e, Marais | 01-44-61-53-60 | www.the-broken-arm.com | Station: Temple.
Comptoir des Cotonniers.
Comfortable, affordable, au courant clothes make this chain popular. Its reputation is built on smart, wearable styles that stress ease over fussiness. Separates in natural fibers—cotton, silk, and cashmere blends—can be light and breezy or cozy and warm, but are always soft, flattering, and in a range of beautiful colors. There are styles for moms and daughters age four and up. | 33 rue des Francs-Bourgeois, 4e, Marais | 01-42-76-95-33 | www.comptoirdescotonniers.com | Station: St-Paul.
COS—which stands for Collection of Style—is the H&M group’s answer to fashion sophisticates, who flock here in droves for high-concept, minimalist design with serious attention to quality tailoring and fabrics at a reasonable price. Classic accessories and shoes look more expensive than they are. | 4 rue des Rosiers, 4e, Marais | 01-44-54-37-70 | www.cosstores.com | Station: St-Paul.
Free ‘P’ Star.
Don’t let the chaos at Free ‘P’ Star discourage you—there’s gold in them there bins. Determined seekers on a budget can reap heady rewards, at least according to the young hipsters who flock here for anything from a floor-sweeping peasant skirt to a cropped chinchilla cape. A second Marais branch—at 61 rue de la Verrerie—is equally stuffed to the gills. Happy hunting! | 8 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4e,Marais | 01-42-76-03-72 | www.freepstar.com | Station: Hôtel de Ville.
The flagship store features an understated collection of contemporary French-made classic clothes and accessories for men and women that emphasize quality fabrics, style, and cut over trendiness. You’ll also find a handpicked collection of exclusive collaborations with cutting-edge French brands (like sleek leather-and-suede booties by Avril Gau for FrenchTrotters), as well as FrenchTrotters’ namesake label, and a limited selection of housewares for chic Parisian apartments. | 128 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 01-44-61-00-14 | www.frenchtrotters.fr | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart, Filles du Calvaire.
This Rue de Sevigné boutique is Paris’s touchstone for edgy, up-to-the-second styles. L’Eclaireur’s knack for uncovering new talent and championing established visionaries is legendary—no surprise after 30 years in the business. Hard-to-find geniuses, like leather wizard Isaac Sellam and British prodigy Paul Harnden, cohabit with luxe labels such as Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann, and Lanvin. There’s a second Marais outpost at 12 rue Mahler. | 40 rue de Sevigné, 3e, Marais | 01-48-87-10-22 | www.leclaireur.com | Station: St-Paul.
La Jolie Garde-Robe.
Could that minutely pleated, full-length black organdy gown prominently displayed front and center really be a genuine, circa 1955 Madame Grès couture gown? Yes! And a steal at $2,000. There’s plenty more to tempt you at this pretty boutique, specializing in ready-to-wear and designer styles from the ‘30s to the ‘80s. While the collection isn’t huge, it’s chosen with a connoisseur’s eye. | 15 rue Commines, 3e, Marais | 01-42-72-13-90 | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Wearing a Majestic cashmere-cotton-blend T-shirt, dress, cardigan, or blazer is like spending the day cocooned in your favorite jammies. Fans have been known to buy five pairs of the silky-soft leggings in one go, just to be sure never to run out. The fact that you’ll look totally stylish is just gilding the lily. | 7 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 4e, Marais | 01-57-40-62-34 | www.majesticfilatures.com | Station: St-Paul.
Paule Ka has that movie-star glamour down pat: for daytime, perfectly cut silk shirtdresses with matching coats; for evening, gemstone-studded gowns and furs. Both Hepburns (Audrey and Katherine) could have made this their second home. | 20 rue Malher, 4e, Marais | 01-40-29-96-03 | pauleka.com | Station: St-Paul.
The owners of Pretty Box have scoured Europe for unique pieces from the ‘20s through the ‘80s. Women love the superstylish belts, shoes, and bags—many in reptile—sold here for a fraction of what they’d cost new, along with an eccentric selection of cool separates and Betty Page-era lingerie. The men’s collection includes vintage French military coats and riotously patterned ‘70s Pierre Cardin shirts. | 46 rue de Saintonge, 3e, Marais | 01-48-04-81-71 | Station: Saint-Sébastien.
The inspired shapes and colors at Samy Chalon bring handknits into the 21st century. Updates on the classics are never bulky and ever flattering. Come for form-fitting cashmeres, long mohair wrap coats in deep crimson or indigo, along with light-as-air skirts, and summer dresses made from vintage designer scarves. | 24 rue Charlot, 3e, Marais | 01-44-59-39-16 | samy-chalon.lexception.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Even in its trendy Marais location, this boutique lives up to its name. Retro and übermodern, it deals in only the sharper edge of chic (with a clientele to match): Marc by Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, Acne, and Equipment, plus accessories. | 15 rue de Poitou, 3e, Marais | 01-48-05-80-10 | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
If you’re nostalgic for the days of Studio 54, sashay over to Studio W, where a rare Loris Azzaro gold-chain top or a plunging Guy Laroche beaded couture dress in crimson mousseline have Liza and Bianca written all over them. With plenty of jewelry, shoes, bags, and even gloves to match, this elegant boutique is a must-see for fashion divas who don’t mind spending a little more for sublimity. | 21 rue du Pont aux Choux, 3e, Marais | 01-44-78-05-02 | Station: St.-Sébastien-Froissart.
Surface to Air.
Promoting itself as a style lab and art gallery rather than a straight-on boutique, Surface to Air has become the hipster’s label of choice. The focus here is on cool, understated design with an air of counterculture chic. Women’s separates range from metallic jeans to asymmetrical minidresses, along with cool shoes and accessories; menswear includes enigmatic T-shirts, streamlined jeans, and cropped leather jackets. | 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 01-44-61-76-27 | www.surfacetoair.com | Station: St-Sébastien-Froissart.
Swildens pioneered the haut Marais and has since gained an ardent following of street-smart twenty- and thirtysomethings who insist as much on comfort as they do on cool. Slouchy separates in natural fibers and fetching colors are punctuated by pieces in leather and shearling, along with belted cardigans and long, drapey sweaters that can be worn almost year-round. The clothes accomplish that rare feat of being both of-the-moment and timeless. | 22 rue de Poitou, 3e, Marais | 01-42-71-19-12 | www.swildens.fr | Station: St-Sébastien Froissart.
Vintage Clothing Paris.
It’s worth a detour to the Marais’s outer limits to visit Vintage Clothing Paris, where the racks read like an A-list of designer greats—Yves Saint Laurent, Hermès, Balmain, Valentino, Lagerfeld, and Mugler, just to name a few. Brigitte Petit’s minimalist shop is the fashion insider’s go-to spot for rare pieces that stand out in a crowd, like a circa 1985 Alaia suede skirt with peekaboo grommets and a jaunty Yves Saint Laurent Epoch Russe hooded cape. | 10 rue de Crussol, 11e, Marais | 01-48-07-16-40 | www.vintageclothingparis.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire, Oberkampf.
Zadig & Voltaire.
Zadig & Voltaire rocks the young fashionistas by offering street wear at its best: racy camisoles, cashmere sweaters in gorgeous colors, cropped leather jackets, and form-fitting pants to cosset those tiny French derrieres. Branches abound in every chic corner of Paris. | 42 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 3e, Marais | 01-44-54-00-60 | www.zadig-et-voltaire.com | Station: St-Paul.
Food and Treats
This place isn’t called the “épicerie du monde” for nothing. Izraël isa one-stop shop for any spice under the sun, plus those hard-to-find items you’d otherwise spend days tracking down. Bins overflowing with every variety of candied fruit, nuts, beans, olives, pickles, and preserved fish give this tiny shop the air of an exotic bazaar. You’ll also find all manner of canned goods, candies, rare spirits, and baking necessities. | 30 rue François Miron, 4e, Marais | 01-42-72-66-23 | Station: St-Paul.
Genin offers the essence of great chocolate: not too sweet, with handpicked seasonal ingredients for the velvety ganaches. The tea salon is a great spot to sample one of Genin’s masterful takes on classic French pastries and a voluptuous chocolat chaud. | 133 rue de Turenne, 3e, Marais | 01-45-77-29-01 | jacquesgenin.fr | Station: Filles du Calvaire, Oberkampf.
Le Palais des Thés.
White tea, green tea, black tea, tea from China, Japan, Indonesia, South America, and more: you can expect a comprehensive tea experience here. Try one of the flavored varieties such as Hammam, a traditional Turkish recipe with date pulp, orange flower, rose, and red berries. | 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 01-48-87-80-60 | www.palaisdesthes.com | Station: St-Paul.
Mariage Frères, with its colonial charme and wooden counters, has 100-plus years of tea purveying behind it. Choose from more than 450 blends from 32 countries, not to mention teapots, teacups, books, and tea-flavor biscuits and candies. High tea and light lunches are served here and at several other Paris locations. | 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg, 4e, Marais | 01-42-72-28-11 | www.mariagefreres.com | Station:Hôtel de Ville.
The first Paris offshoot of the famous patisserie and tea salon in Lille (one of France’s oldest) specializes in the gauffre, a delicate waffle handmade in the original 19th-century molds and wrapped in gilt-paper packages. Native to Belgium and northern France, Meert’s version is treasured for its light cream center perfumed with Madagascar vanilla. There are also chocolates, pastries, and flavored guimauves, the airy French marshmallows. | 16 rue Elzévir, 3e, Marais | 01-49-96-56-90 | www.meert.fr | Station: St-Paul.
This shop gleams with an astonishing array of culinary essentials for the novice and professional. Don’t be surprised if you’re struck by the urge to replace every utensil in your kitchen with these cool, contemporary designs. | 4 rue de Bretagne, 3e, Marais | 01-44-78-97-04 | www.kitchenbazaar.fr | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Le Monde Sauvage.
Le Monde Sauvage is a must-visit for home accessories. Expect reversible silk bedspreads in rich colors, velvet throws, hand-quilted bed linens, silk floor cushions, colorful rugs, and the best selection of hand-embroidered curtains in silk, cotton, linen, or velvet. | 21 rue Sévigné, 4e, Marais | 01-43-25-60-34 | www.lemondesauvage.com | Station: Saint-Paul.
Kanketsu (simplicity) is the guiding philosophy at Muji, and the resulting streamlined designs are all the rage in Europe. Must-haves include a collection of mini-necessities—travel essentials, wee office gizmos, purse-size accoutrements, plus the best notebooks and pens around. They’re so useful and adorable you’ll want them all. | 47 rue des Francs Bourgeois, 4e, Marais | 01-49-96-41-41 | www.muji.eu | Station:St-Paul.
Sentou knocked the Parisian world over the head with its fresh designs. Avant-garde furniture, rugs, and a variety of home accessories line the cool showroom. Look for the April Vase (old test tubes linked together to form different shapes) or the oblong suspended crystal vases and arty tableware. | 29 rue Francois Miron, 4e, Marais | 01-42-78-50-60 | www.sentou.fr | Station: St-Paul.
Van der Straeten.
Paris designer Hervé van der Straeten started out creating jewelry for Saint Laurent and Lacroix, designed a perfume bottle for Christian Dior, and then moved on to making rather baroque and often wacky furniture. In his loft gallery-cum-showroom, furniture, lighting, jewelry, and startling mirrors are on display. | 11 rue Ferdinand Duval, 4e, Marais | 01-42-78-99-99 | www.vanderstraeten.fr | Station: St-Paul.
Jewelry and Accessories
This understated boutique saves the razzle-dazzle for its wares—an outstanding selection of contemporary pieces by Europe’s finest young designers. Look for Ileana Makri’s delicately bejeweled cat’s eye, snake, or winsome feathers; Honorine Jewel’s finely wrought golden insect rings, necklaces, and bracelets; and Venessa Arizaga’s protection necklaces with a tiny leather purse for your secret lucky charms. Hod has styles for all tastes and budgets | 104 rue Vieille du Temple, 3e, Marais | 09-53-15-83-34 | hod-boutique.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire.
Fodor’s Choice | Yves Gratas.
With a knack for pairing gems of varying sizes, brilliance, and texture, Yves Gratas allows each stone to influence the design. Whether it’s a spectacular necklace of sapphire beads to be worn long or doubled, or a simple agate sphere tipped in gold and dangling like a tiny planet, these stellar jewels feel like one organic whole. | 9 rue Oberkampf, 11e, Marais | 01-49-29-00-53 | yvesgratas.com | Station: Filles du Calvaire, Oberkampf.
Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods
K. Jacques has shod everyone from Brigitte Bardot to Drew Barrymore. The famous St-Tropez-based maker of strappy leather-soled flats has migrated to the big time while still keeping designs classic and comfortable. From gladiator style to lightweight cork platforms, metallics to neutrals, these are perennial favorites. | 16 rue Pavée, 4e, Marais | 01-40-27-03-57 | www.kjacques.fr | Station: St-Paul.
This is a sweet little boutique with accessories for the woman who wants it all. Beautiful high heels by Balenciaga, Chloé, and Pierre Hardy and fabulous bags by Martin Margiela, Jil Sander, and Proenza Schouler are just a start. | 6 rue Malher, 4e, Marais | 01-48-87-68-14 | www.lobato-paris.com | Station: St-Paul.
“Off the beaten track” aptly describes the up-and-coming neighborhoods of eastern Paris, which are dotted with galleries, vintage shops, and funky boutiques. Low-key cool reigns here, so you won’t encounter the high-wattage, high-profile designers that vie for attention elsewhere. Instead, local hipster shops ensure a few choice finds that will be seen on you and only you.
This rising design star is a honeypot of bohemian rock-star style. Her separates skim the body without constricting: layered miniskirts, loose peekaboo sweaters ready to slip from a shoulder, and super fox-fur jackets in lurid colors. Look for the secondary line, Étoile, for a less expensive take. | 16 rue de Charonne, 11e, Bastille/Nation | 01-49-29-71-55 | www.isabelmarant.com | Station: Ledru-Rollin.
Paris’s largest market is as much an event as a place to shop. Blocks of specialized stalls—including ones devoted to rare wines, regional cheeses, game, seafood, and flowers—cater to scores of Parisian chefs and epicures. It’s open Thursday and Sunday 7-3. | Bd. Richard Lenoir, between rues Amelot and Saint-Sabin, 11e, Bastille/Nation | Station: Ledru-Rollin.
Arguably the most authentic local market, Marché d’Aligre is open 7:30-1:30 Tuesday through Friday, and 7:30-2:30 on weekends. Don’t miss the covered hall on the Place d’Aligre, where you can stop by a unique olive-oil boutique for bulk and prebottled oils from top producers. (See Chapter 9, Eastern Paris.) | Pl. d’Aligre, 12e, Bastille/Nation | Station: Ledru-Rollin/Bastille.
Books and Stationery
Fodor’s Choice | Artazart.
The best design book store in France carries tomes on everything from architecture to tattoo art: there are sections dedicated to photography, fashion, graphic art, typography, illustration, package design, color, and more. | 83 quai de Valmy, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-40-40-24-00 | www.artazart.com | Station: République.
Antoine & Lili.
This bright, fuchsia-colored store is packed with an international assortment of eclectic objects and items from Antoine & Lili’s own clothing line. There’s an ethnic-rummage-sale feel, with old Asian posters, small lanterns, and basket upon basket of inexpensive doodads, baubles, and trinkets for sale. The clothing itself has simple lines, and there are always plenty of raw silk pieces to pick from. | 95 quai de Valmy, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-40-37-41-55 | www.antoineetlili.com | Station: Jacques-Bonsergent.
Fodor’s Choice | Centre Commercial.
This store’s A-list fashion credentials come with a big bonus—everything here is ethically and ecologically sourced. Peruse racks of men’s and women’s wear from handpicked European and U.S. labels; then head to the stellar shoe department to complete your look. Beneath glass skylights as clear as your conscience, you’ll also find chic vintage furniture and a fine selection of natural candles, leather goods, and jewelry. The kids’ store just around the corner (22 rue Yves Toudic) is one of the city’s best, with toys, decor, and color-coordinated togs that express canal-side cool. | 2 rue de Marseille, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-42-02-26-08 | www.centrecommercial.cc | Station: Jacques Bonsergent.
Des Petits Hauts.
Des Petits Hauts charmed its way into the local fashion idiom with chic yet beguilingly feminine styles. Fabrics are soft, and styles are casual with a tiny golden star sewn into each garment for good luck. | 21 rue Beaurepaire, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-40-40-95-47 | www.despetitshauts.com | Station: République.
Liza Korn is that rare designer who seems to do it all and do it well. Whether it’s rock ‘n’ roll (grommeted leather baseball or biker jackets), asymmetrical (slant-necked minidresses), or classic (tailored blazers over stovepipe jeans), she raises the bar on eclecticism. Korn’s bespoke service optimizes the designer’s creativity for a truly one-off look made to your measurements and desires—wedding dresses, too! | 19 rue Beaurepaire, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-42-01-36-02 | www.liza-korn.com | Station: République.
Little items for the home in a riot of colors are sold at Idé Co. But you’ll also find fabulous rubber jewelry and funky stuff for kids big and small. | 19 rue Beaurepaire, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-42-01-00-11 | www.idecoparis.com | Station: République.
No place outfits chic Canal St-Martin lofts better than this soaring eco-friendly boutique. Housed in a historic treasury, it assembles the crème de la crème of French and European kitchen and dining ware, linens, bath products, small furnishings, hardware, lighting, paint, and more. Local hipsters come to La Trésorerie’s bright, Scandinavian-style café for all things fresh, organic, and yummy. | 11 rue du Château d’Eau, 10e | 01-40-40-20-46 | latresorerie.fr | Station: Jacques Bonsergent.
Jewelry and Accessories
Sculptural pieces that combine leather, suede, rhinestones, agate, or resin with whimsical themes can be found at Médecine Douce. The wildly popular lariat necklace can be looped and dangled according to your mood du jour. | 10 rue de Marseille, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-82-83-11-53 | www.bijouxmedecinedouce.com | Station: République.
Viveka Bergström leads the ranks of designers who thumb their noses at the pretensions of traditional costume jewelry—these baubles just want to have fun! Whether it’s a bracelet of gigantic rhinestones, a ring of fluorescent pink resin, or a pair of floating angel wings on a necklace, each piece has an acute sense of style while not taking itself too seriously. | 23 rue de la Grange aux Belles, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-40-03-04-92 | viveka-bergstrom.blogspot.fr | Station: République.
Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods
Jamin Puech Inventaire.
These are last season’s models, but no one will guess; savings are 30% to 60%. | 61 rue d’Hauteville, 10e, Canal St-Martin | 01-40-22-08-32 | www.jamin-puech.com | Station: Poisonnière.
Considering this fabled quartier is home to the Sorbonne and historically one of Paris’s intellectual-bohemian centers, it’s not surprising that it has a rich selection of bookstores—not just for students but for collectors and bargain hunters, too. Gastronomes, meanwhile, flock in to shop at the outstanding charcuteries and fromageries along Rue Mouffetard.
Books and Stationery
Paris’s Canadian bookstore has books on Canadian history as well as new and secondhand Québécois and English-language novels. The Canadian Club of Paris also organizes regular poetry readings and literary conferences here. | 29 rue de la Parcheminerie, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01-46-33-16-24 | abbeybookshop.fr | Station: Cluny-La Sorbonne.
Shakespeare & Company.
This sentimental Rive Gauche favorite is named after the bookstore whose American owner, Sylvia Beach, first published James Joyce’s Ulysses. Nowadays it specializes in expat literature. Although the eccentric and beloved owner, George Whitman, passed away in 2011, his daughter Sylvia has taken up the torch. You can still count on a couple of characters lurking in the stacks, a sometimes spacey staff, the latest titles from British presses, and hidden secondhand treasures in the odd corners and crannies. Check the website for readings and workshops throughout the week. | 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e, Latin Quarter | 01-43-25-40-93 | shakespeareandcompany.com | Station: St-Michel.
Head to Avant-Scène for original, poetic furniture. Owner Elisabeth Delacarte commissions limited-edition pieces from artists like Mark Brazier-Jones, Franck Evennou, Elizabeth Garouste, and Hubert Le Gall. | 4 pl. de l’Odéon, 6e, Latin Quarter | 01-46-33-12-40 | www.avantscene.fr | Station: Odéon.
Jewelry and Accessories
The minimalist accessories designed by former architect Peggy Huynh Kinh include understated totes, shoulder bags, wallets, and belts in the highest-quality leather, as well as a line of picnic bags and elegant office-oriented pieces. Look for them at her streamlined—and recently rebranded—Peggy Kingg boutique. | 9 rue Coëtlogon, 6e, Latin Quarter | 01-42-84-83-84 | www.peggykingg.com | Station: St-Sulpice.
This colorful market street near the Jardin des Plantes reflects its multicultural neighborhood: vibrant, with a laid-back feel that still smacks of old Paris. It’s best on weekends. (See Chapter 10, The Latin Quarter.) | 5e, Latin Quarter | Station: Monge.
Ever since Yves Saint Laurent arrived in the 1960s, the Rive Gauche has been synonymous with iconoclastic style. Trendsetting stores line a jumble of streets in the 6e arrondissement, and exciting boutiques await between Place de l’Odéon and Église St-Sulpice. In the 7e arrondissement, don’t miss Rue du Bac and that jewel of a department store, Le Bon Marché.
Antiques and Collectibles
Fodor’s Choice | Carré Rive Gauche.
Carré Rive Gauche is where you’ll unearth museum-quality pieces. Head to the streets between Rue du Bac, Rue de l’Université, Rue de Lille, and Rue des Sts-Pères to find more than 100 associated shops, marked with a small, blue square banner on their storefronts. | Between St-Germain-des-Prés and Musée d’Orsay, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | www.carrerivegauche.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés, Rue du Bac.
Fodor’s Choice | Deyrolle.
This fascinating 19th-century taxidermist has long been a stop for curiosity seekers. A 2008 fire destroyed what was left of the original shop, but it has been lavishly restored and remains a cabinet of curiosities par excellence. Create your own box of butterflies or metallic beetles from scores of bug-filled drawers or just enjoy the menagerie that includes stuffed zebras, monkeys, lions, bears, and more. Also in stock: collectible shells, corals, and crustaceans, plus a generous library of books and posters that once graced every French schoolroom. There is a new line of cool wallpaper murals, too. | 46 rue du Bac, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-30-07 | www.deyrolle.com | Station: Rue du Bac.
Fodor’s Choice | Buly 1803.
Although it only opened in 2014, you can be forgiven for thinking Buly 1803 is an antique apothecary—all those jars overflowing with exotic herbs, powders, and elixirs are used to re-create 200-year-old recipes for its skin-care line. The all-natural hand, body, and face products are organic, beautifully packaged, and impossibly chic. | 6 rue Bonaparte, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-29-02-50 | www.buly1803.com.
Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle.
This perfumerie is based on a simple concept: take the nine most famous noses in France and have them edit singular perfumes. The result? Exceptional, highly concentrated fragrances. Le Parfum de Thérèse, for example, was created by famous Dior nose Edmond Roudnitska for his wife. Monsieur Malle has devised high-tech ways to keep each smelling session unadulterated. At the Rue de Grenelle store, individual scents are released in glass columns—just stick your head in and sniff. A second boutique at 140 avenue Victor Hugo has a glass-fronted “wall of scents,” which mists the air with a selected fragrance at the push of a button. | 37 rue de Grenelle, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-76-40 | www.fredericmalle.com | Station: Rue du Bac.
Shu Uemura has enhanced those whose faces are their fortune for decades. Models swear by the cleansing oil; free samples are proffered. A huge range of colors, every makeup brush imaginable, and the no-pinch eyelash curler keep fans coming back. | 176 bd. St-Germain, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-02-55 | www.shuuemura.fr | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Books and Stationery
Poised between the Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, La Hune is a landmark for intellectuals. French literature is downstairs, but the main attraction is the comprehensive collection of international books on art and architecture upstairs. You can hang out until midnight with all the other genius-insomniacs. | 16-18 rue de l’Abbaye, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-35-85 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Perfect for night owls, Taschen is open until midnight on Friday and Saturday. The Starck-designed shelves and desks hold glam titles on photography, fine art, design, fashion, and fetishes. | 2 rue de Buci, 6e,St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-40-51-79-22 | www.taschen.com | Station: Mabillon.
Alice à Paris.
Look for inventive, stylish, affordable and, above all, kid-proof clothing at Alice à Paris. These adorable outfits, for children from birth to 14 years old, are functional takes on classic styles in durable cottons and woolens. You’ll also find shops at 14 rue Sévigné (4e) and 64 rue Condorcet (9e). | 9 rue de l’Odeon, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-53-89 | www.aliceaparis.com | Station: St-Placide.
Pom d’Api lines up footwear for babies and preteens in quality leathers and vivid colors. Expect well-made, eye-catching fashion—bright fuchsia sneakers and leopard suede boots, as well as classic Mary Janes in shades of silver, pink, and gold. There are also utility boots for boys and sturdy rain gear. | 28 rue du Four, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-39-31 | www.pomdapi.fr | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
It’s hard to resist Antik Batik’s wonderful line of ethnically inspired clothes. There are rows of beaded and sequined dresses, Chinese silk tunics, short fur jackets and fur-lined anoraks, flowing organza separates, and some of Paris’s most popular sandals and giant scarves. The store carries maxi versions for mothers-to-be, plus adorable mini versions for girls ages 2 to 14. | 26 rue St-Sulpice, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-44-07-68-53 | www.antikbatik.fr | Station: Odéon, Marais.
A.P.C. may be antiflash and minimal, but a knowing eye can always pick out its jeans in a crowd. The clothes here are rigorously well made and worth the investment in lasting style. Prime wardrobe pieces include dark indigo and black denim, zip-up cardigans, peacoats, and streamlined ankle boots. | 38 rue Madame, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-12-77 | www.apc.fr | Station: St-Sulpice.
Fodor’s Choice | Carven.
Daringly original designs that are sexy yet wearable account for Carven’s steady rise into the fashion stratosphere. Artistic director Guillame Henry’s departure in late 2014 has left some big question marks, but meticulous tailoring, up-to-the-minute silhouettes, and a mix of luxe fabrics with artsy prints and surprising colors will no doubt continue to characterize the brand. | 34 rue St-Sulpice, St-Germain-des-Prés | 09-60-45-47-04 | www.carven.com | Station: Saint-Sulpice, Odéon.
The titular designer’s own chiseled profile is a key design element in his St-Germain flagship store. Inside, look for two recently launched lines: Lagerfeld, featuring “everyday” clothes for the urban man, and Karl Lagerfeld Paris (KLP), a ready-to-wear collection for men and women. The latter is aimed at fashion-conscious twenty- and thirty-somethings who want to strut their stuff (think body-slimming jackets, lace-inset tops, and skin-tight jeans, mostly in black, white, and gray). The store also stocks eyewear, accessories, bags, shoes, fragrances, and—you guessed it—Lagerfeld’s signature fingerless leather gloves. | 194 bd. St-Germain, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-74-99 | www.karl.com | Station: Rue du Bac.
This stock store is a prized listing in every chic Parisian’s little black book. Shimmy into a pair of leather jeans, don a sheer silk blouse, and top off your outfit with a belted cashmere jacket. Back home, no one will know they’re from last season. | 9 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-44-21-20 | fr.maje.com.
Sonia Rykiel has been designing insouciant knitwear since the 1960s. Sweaters drape and cling by turns and her color combinations (she’s partial to stripes) are lovely. Opulent silks, furs, accessories dotted with rhinestones, and soft leather bags punctuate the collection. Sonia by Sonia Rykiel, the secondary line, is playful, smart, and targets a slightly younger crowd. | 175 bd. St-Germain, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-49-54-60-60 | www.soniarykiel.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Fodor’s Choice | Le Bon Marché.
Founded in 1852, Le Bon Marché has emerged as the city’s chicest department store. Long a hunting ground for linens and other home items, the store got a face-lift that brought fashion to the fore. The ground floor sets out makeup, perfume, and accessories; this is where celebs duck in for essentials while everyone pretends not to recognize them. Upstairs, do laps through labels chichi (Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Lanvin) and überhip (Martin Margiela, Comme des Garçons, Ann Demeulemeester). The refurbished menswear department, under the moniker Balthazar, has now consumed the entire basement level and keeps pace with designers like Saint Laurent and Paul Smith. Zip across the second-floor walkway to the mode section (above the next-door épicerie): home to streetwise designers and edgy secondary lines, it also has a funky café. French favorites include Athé by Vanessa Bruno, Zadig & Voltaire, Tsumori Chisato, Isabel Marant’s Étoile line, and Helmut Lang jeans. Best of all, this department store isn’t nearly as crowded as those near the Opéra. Don’t miss the spectacularly renovated La Grande Épicerie and Cave (wine shop) next door: it’s the haute couture of grocery stores. Artisanal jams, olive oils, and much more make great gifts, and the luscious pastries, fruit, and huge selection of prepared foods beg to be chosen for a snack. | 24 rue de Sèvres, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-44-39-80-00 | www.lebonmarche.com | Station:Sèvres-Babylone.
Food and Treats
Christian Constant is deservedly praised for his exquisite ganaches, perfumed with jasmine, ylang-ylang, or verveine. | 37 rue d’Assas, 6e, Luxembourg | 01-53-63-15-15 | www.christianconstant.fr | Station:St-Placide.
Debauve & Gallais.
The two former chemists who founded Debauve & Gallais in 1800 became the royal chocolate purveyors and were famed for their “health chocolates,” made with almond milk. Test the benefits yourself with ganache, truffles, or pistols (flavored dark-chocolate disks). | 30 rue des Sts-Pères, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-54-67 | debauve-et-gallais.fr | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Henri Le Roux.
The originator of the renowned caramel au beurre salé, Henri Le Roux pairs a Breton pedigree with Japanese flair. Brilliant confections result. You can also satsify your sweet tooth in stores at 52 rue Saint-Dominique (7e) and 24 rue des Martyrs (9e). | 1 rue de Bourbon le Château, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-82-28-49-80 | www.chocolatleroux.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Rouchoux makes three superb collections of artisanal chocolates: the Ephemeral, with fresh fruit; Made-to-Measure, with animals and figurines; and the Permanent Collection of everyday favorites. | 16 rue d’Assas, 6e, Luxembourg | 01-42-84-29-45 | www.jcrochoux.com | Station: Rennes.
La Maison du Chocolat.
This is chocolate’s gold standard. The silky ganaches are renowned for subtlety and flavor. See the website for a full list of locations. | 19 rue de Sèvre, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-44-20-40 | www.lamaisonduchocolat.fr | Station: Sèvres-Babylone.
Paris’s bad-boy chocolatier likes to shock with provocative shapes and wicked humor. Everything is sinfully good. The Boulevard Saint-Germain shop is one of six citywide. | 108 bd. St-Germain, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-29-38-42 | www.patrickroger.com | Station: Odéon.
Hermé may be Paris’s most renowned pâtissier. Sample the peerless cakes and cookies, or savor the chocolate delights (classic varieties, like the dark-chocolate and orange-rind batons, are perennial favorites). Hermé offers a scrumptious, zesty lemon pound cake preboxed and dense enough to survive the trip home. Maybe. There are more than 10 Paris locations. | 72 rue Bonaparte, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-54-47-77 | www.pierreherme.com | Station: Odéon.
Pierre Marcolini proves it’s all in the bean with his specialty saveurs du monde collection of Belgian chocolates, made with a single cacao from a single location, such as Madagascar or Ecuador. | 89 rue de Seine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-44-07-39-07 | www.marcolini.com | Station: Mabillon.
How do I love thee? The ways are too numerous to count. At Richart, inspired chocolates dazzle the eye and elevate the palate. In addition to the Boulevard St-Germain boutique, there’s another at 27 rue Bonaparte (6e). | 258 bd. St-Germain, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-56-81-16-10 | www.chocolats-richart.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Tucked into a courtyard, this luxe épicerie carries the full line of Huilerie Artisanale J. Leblanc et Fils oil—15 varieties pressed the old-fashioned way, with a big stone wheel, from olives, hazelnuts, pistachios, or grape seeds. You can also buy aged vinegars, fleur de sel (unprocessed sea salt), foie gras, and other regional French delicacies, plus the tools to serve them with. | 12 rue Jacob, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-44-07-36-58 | www.tomats.fr | Station: Mabillon, St-Germain-des-Prés.
Alexandre Biaggi specializes in 20th-century Art Deco and also commissions pieces from such talented designers as Patrick Naggar and Hervé van der Straeten. | 14 rue de Seine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-44-07-34-73 | alexandrebiaggi.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
This trendsetter in pared-down, tastefully hued housewares also sells lamps, furniture, and home accessories. | 11 rue St-Sulpice, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-44-07-02-02 | www.catherinememmi.com | Station: St-Sulpice.
Fodor’s Choice | Cire Trudon.
Cire Trudon has illuminated the great palaces and churches of Paris since the 1700s. Nowadays it provides the atmosphere for tony restaurants and exclusive soirées. The all-vegetal, atmospherically scented candles come in elegant black glass, pillars of all sizes, or busts of clients past—like Napoléon and Marie-Antoinette. | 78 rue de Seine, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-26-46-50 | www.ciretrudon.com | Station: Odéon.
This is the brainchild of British entrepreneur Terence Conran. The shop carries expensive contemporary furniture, beautiful bed linens, and items for every other room in the house—all marked by a balance of utility and not-too-sober style. Conran makes even shower curtains fun. | 117 rue du Bac, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-84-10-01 | www.conranshop.fr | Station: Sèvres-Babylone.
Fodor’s Choice | Diptyque.
A Paris mainstay since 1961, Diptyque’s flagship shop is famous for its candles, eaux de toilette, and body fragrances in a huge range of sophisticated scents like myrrh, fig tree, wisteria, and quince. They’re delightful but not cheap; the candles, for instance, cost nearly $1 per hour of burn time. | 34 bd. St-Germain, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-26-77-44 | www.diptyqueparis.fr | Station: Maubert Mutualité.
R&Y Augousti are two Paris-based designers who make furniture and objects for the home from nacre, ostrich, palm wood, and parchment. Also for sale are their hand-tooled leather bags and wallets. | 103 rue du Bac, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-22-21 | www.augousti.com | Station: Sèvres-Babylone.
Fodor’s Choice | Zuber.
Have you always wanted to imitate the grand homes of Paris? Here’s your chance. Zuber has operated nonstop for more than two centuries as the world’s oldest producer of prestige hand-printed wallpapers, renowned for their magnificent panoramic scenes. Warning: with only one scene produced per year, the wait can be nearly a decade long. Opulent Restoration-era wallpapers (including metallics, silks, velvets, and pressed leather) make modern statements and can be purchased in 32-foot rolls for slightly less than a king’s ransom. | 3 rue des Saints-Pères, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-77-95-91 | www.zuber.fr | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Jewelry and Accessories
Entering this jewelry shop is like landing in Ali Baba’s cave: each piece is more gorgeous than the last, and the bounty of beautiful shapes and styles satisfies a large range of tastes (and budgets). Cabochon rings can be pebble-size or rock-like, jeweled cuffs sport diamonds in a web of gold, and simple cord-and-gem bracelets cannot fail to make a statement. | 54 rue Jacob, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-47-03-07-18 | www.adelline.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
This chain is the perfect place to buy a moderately priced piece of fun jewelry. Agatha’s line of earrings, rings, hair accessories, bracelets, necklaces, watches, brooches, and pendants is ultrapopular with Parisians. Styles change quickly, but classics include charm bracelets and fine gold necklaces with whimsical pendants. | 45 rue Bonaparte, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-46-33-20-00 | www.agatha.fr | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
The proprietress of this legendary little store is the queen of walking sticks (the late president François Mitterrand bought his here). Alexandra Sojfer also carries an amazing range of umbrellas, parasols, small leather goods, and other accessories for men and women. | 218 bd. St-Germain, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-42-22-17-02 | www.alexandrasojfer.com | Station: Rue du Bac.
Dating back to 1803, Arthus-Bertrand has glass showcases full of designer jewelry and numerous objects to celebrate births. | 54 rue Bonaparte, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-49-54-72-10 | www.arthus-bertrand.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Marie Mercié—one of Paris’s most fashionable milliners, and one of its last—makes charming hats for every season. Her raffish straw models are masterworks. Husband Anthony Peto, who makes men’s headgear, has a store at 56 rue Tiquetonne. | 23 rue St-Sulpice, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-26-45-83 | www.mariemercie.com | Station: Mabillon, St-Sulpice.
Fodor’s Choice | Sabbia Rosa.
You could easily walk straight past this discreet, boudoirlike boutique. It is, however, one of the world’s finest lingerie stores and the place where actresses Catherine Deneuve and Isabelle Adjani (along with others who might not want to reveal their errand) buy superb French silks. | 71-73 rue des Sts-Pères, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-88-37 | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
The city’s major marché biologique, or organic market, is on Boulevard Raspail between Rue du Cherche-Midi and Rue de Rennes. Bursting with produce, fish, and eco-friendly products, it’s open every Sunday from 9 to 2. The market also operates on Tuesday and Friday, selling nonorganic products from 7 to 2:30. | 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | Station: Rennes.
Rue de Buci.
Vendors at this market often tempt you with tastes of their wares: slices of sausage, slivers of peaches. It’s closed Sunday afternoon and Monday. | 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | Station: Odéon.
Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods
Fodor’s Choice | Avril Gau.
After designing a dozen collections for Chanel, Gau struck out on her own, opening her neo-Baroque boutique on the charming Rue des Quatre Vents. Gau takes her inspiration from glamorous French movie icons, dreaming up styles that are elegant and sexy without being trashy. Sleek pumps, wedge booties, ballerina flats, and riding boots (all in the finest quality calf, reptile, and lambskin) are as classy as they come. Bags share the spotlight, with updated riffs on the classics. | 17 rue des Quatre Vents, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-29-49-04 | www.avrilgau.com | Station: Odéon.
Fodor’s Choice | Jamin Puech.
Jamin Puech thinks of its bags not just as a necessity, but as jewelry. Nothing’s plain Jane here. Beaded bags swing from thin link chains; fringes flutter from dark embossed-leather totes; and small evening purses are covered with shells, oversize sequins, or hand-dyed crochet. The collections fluctuate with the seasons but never fail to be whimsical, imaginative, and highly coveted. | 43 rue Madame, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-14-85 | www.jamin-puech.com | Station: St-Sulpice.
Fodor’s Choice | Jérôme Dreyfuss.
The newest star in the city’s handbag universe has captivated le tout Paris with his artsy take on hobo, Birkin, and messenger bags. Unique styles (like the twee-mini) are impossibly cute, and you’ll be glad you took out that second mortgage just to tote around a luxe matte-python model. A new line of gorgeous, high-heeled footwear is equally chic. | 4 rue Jacob, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-54-70-93 | www.jerome-dreyfuss.com | Station: St-Germain-des-Prés.
Robert Clergerie knows that shoes make the woman. Styles combine visionary design, first-rate craftsmanship, and wearability with rare staying power. Plus, they’re still a relative bargain on this side of the Atlantic. | 5 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-75-47 | www.robertclergerie.com | Station: Saint-Sulpice.
Fodor’s Choice | Tila March.
Fame came quickly to this ex-fashion editor, whose wildly successful first handbag collection was snatched up by celebs such as Sienna Miller, Kirsten Dunst, and Scarlett Johansson. March uses velvety nubuck in a range of saturated colors—aubergine, olive, brick, taupe, and more—along with sleek matte crocodile to craft everything from large totes (like her handy Daisy bag) to tiny evening bags. With sleekly sophisticated shoes to match, it’s not just a boutique—it’s a destination. | 24 rue Saint-Sulpice, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-43-26-69-20 | www.tilamarch.com | Station: Odéon, Saint-Sulpice.
Fodor’s Choice | La Dernière Goutte.
This inviting cave (literally wine store or wine cellar) focuses on wines by small French producers. Each is handpicked by the owner, along with a choice selection of estate Champagnes, Armagnac, and the classic Vieille Prune (plum brandy). The friendly English-speaking staff makes browsing a pleasure. Don’t miss the Saturday-afternoon tastings with the winemakers. | 6 rue de Bourbon le Château, 6e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-46-29-11-62 | www.ladernieregoutte.net | Station: Odéon.
Ryst-Dupeyron specializes in fine wines and liquors, with Port, Calvados, and Armagnacs that date from 1878. Looking for a great gift idea? Find a bottle from the year of a friend’s birth and have it labeled with your friend’s name. Personalized bottles can be ordered and delivered on the same day. | 79 rue du Bac, 7e, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01-45-48-80-93 | www.maisonrystdupeyron.com | Station: Rue du Bac.
The legendary Rue d’Alessia alone lands this neighborhood on the Paris shopping radar. If you’re willing to dig a little, a thrilling afternoon can be had seeking out the many bargains here—from steeply discounted designer clothes, shoes, and accessories to housewares and kids’ togs. Just roll up your sleeves and dive in.
This street in the 14e arrondissement is the main place to find shops selling last season’s fashions at a discount. Be forewarned: most of the outlets are much more downscale than their elegant sister shops; dressing rooms are not always provided. | 14e, Montparnasse | Station: Alésia.
Les Puces des Vanves.
This smaller flea market, on the southern side of the city, is a hit with the fashion and design set. It specializes in easily portable items (like textiles or clothing) and collectible objects that include books, posters, postcards, and glassware. With tables sprawling along both sides of the sidewalk, there’s an extravagant selection—just be sure to bargain. It’s open on weekends from 8 to 1, but come early for the real deals: good stuff goes fast, and stalls are liable to pack up before noon. | Av. de le Porte de Vanves and Av. Marc Sangnier, 14e, Southern Paris | Station: Porte de Vanves.