Frommer's EasyGuide to Rome, Florence and Venice 2017 - Stephen Keeling, Melanie Renzulli, Donald Strachan (2016)
By Stephen Keeling
Nothing in the world quite looks like Venice. This vast, floating city of grand palazzi, elegant bridges, gondolas, and canals is a magnificent spectacle, truly magical when approached by sea for the first time, when its golden domes and soaring bell towers seem to rise straight from the sea. While it can sometimes appear that Venice is little more than an open-air museum where tourists always outnumber locals—by a large margin—it is still surprisingly easy to lose the crowds. Indeed, the best way to enjoy Venice is to simply get lost in its labyrinth of narrow, enchanting streets, stumbling upon a quiet campo (square), market stall, or cafe far off the beaten track, where even the humblest medieval church might might contain masterful work by Tiepolo, Titian, or Tintoretto.
The origins of Venice are as muddy as parts of the lagoon it now occupies, but most histories begin with the arrival of refugees from Attila the Hun’s invasion of Italy in 453 A.D. The mudflats were gradually built over and linked together, channels and streams eventually becoming canals. By the 11th century, Venice had emerged as a major independent trading city, and a seaborne empire (which included Crete, Corfu, and Cyprus) was held together by a huge navy and commercial fleet by the 13th century. Though embroiled with wars against rival Italian city Genoa and the Turks for much of the ensuing centuries, these were golden years for Venice, when booming trade with the Far East funded much of its grand architecture and art. Although it remained an outwardly rich city, by the 1700s the good times were over, and in 1797 Napoleon dissolved the Venetian Republic. You’ll gain a sense of some of this history touring Piazza San Marco, and St. Mark’s Basilica, or by visiting the Accademia, one of Italy’s great art galleries, but only when you wander the back calli (streets), will you encounter the true, living, breathing side of Venice, still redolent of those glory days.
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square).
BY PLANE You can fly to Venice nonstop from North America via Delta Airlines (www.delta.com) from Atlanta (late June-Aug only) and New York-JFK (Apr-Sep only), via United Airlines (www.united.com) from Newark (June-late Sep), or via American Airlines (www.aa.com) from Philadelphia (Apr-Oct); and via Rome with Alitalia (www.alitalia.com) or a number of other airlines year-round. You can also connect through a major European city with European carriers. No-frills easyJet (www.easyjet.com) flies direct from Berlin, London-Gatwick, Manchester, and Paris much cheaper than the major airlines, while rival budget carrier Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) uses the airport in nearby Treviso (a 1-hr. bus ride to Venice).
Flights land at the Aeroporto di Venezia Marco Polo, 7km (41⁄4 miles) northwest of the city on the mainland (www.veniceairport.it; 041-2609260). There are two bus alternatives for getting into town. The ATVO airport shuttle bus (www.atvo.it; 0421-594672) connects with Piazzale Roma not far from Venice’s Santa Lucia train station (and the closest point to Venice’s attractions accessible by car or bus). Buses leave for/from the airport about every 30 minutes, cost 8€ (15€ return), and make the trip in about 20 minutes. Buy tickets at the automatic ticket machines in the arrivals baggage hall, or the Public Transport ticket office (daily 8am-midnight). The local ACTV bus no. 5 ( 041-2424) also costs 8€, also takes 20 minutes, and runs between two and four times an hour depending on the time of day; the best option here is to buy the combined ACTV and “Nave” ticket for 14€, which includes your first vaporetto ride at a slight discount (the “vaporetto” is the seagoing streetcar of Venice, which goes to all parts of the city). Buy tickets at machines just outside the terminal. With either bus, you’ll have to walk to or from the final stop at Piazzale Roma to the nearby vaporetto (water bus) stop for the final connection to your hotel. It’s rare to see porters around who’ll help with luggage, so pack light.
A land taxi from the airport to Piazzale Roma (where you get the vaporetto) will run about 45€—the meter starts at 15€.
The most evocative and traditional way to arrive in Venice is by sea. For 15€, 14€ if you buy online, the Cooperative San Marco/Alilaguna (www.alilaguna.it; 041-2401701) operates a large motoscafo (shuttle boat) service from the airport (with stops at Murano), arriving after about 1 hour and 15 minutes in Piazza San Marco. The Linea Blu (blue line) runs almost every 30 minutes from about 6:15am to 12:15am. The Linea Arancio (orange line) has the same frequency, costs the same, and takes the same amount of time to arrive at San Marco, but gets there through the Grand Canal, which is much more spectacular and offers the possibility to get off at one of the stops along the way. This might be convenient to your hotel and could save you from having to take another means of transportation. The Linea Rossa (red line) runs to the Lido and Murano (8€). If you arrive at Piazza San Marco and your hotel isn’t in the area, you’ll have to make a connection at the vaporetto launches. (If you’re booking a hotel in advance, ask for specific advice how to get there.)
A good alternative is the Venice Shuttle (www.venicelink.com; daily 8am-10:30pm; minimum 2 people for reservations), a shared water taxi (they carry 6-8 people) that will whisk you directly from the airport to many hotels and most of the major locations in the city for 25€ to 32€ (add 6€ after 9pm). You must reserve online in advance.
A private water taxi (20-30 min. to/from the airport) is convenient but costly—there is a 100€ fee (discounts at www.venicelink.com) to the city for up to four passengers with one bag each (10€ more for each extra person up to a maximum of 10, and another 10€ for 10pm-8am arrivals). It’s worth considering if you’re pressed for time, have an early flight (taxis run 24hr), are carrying a lot of luggage (a Venice no-no), or can split the cost with a friend or two. It may be able to drop you off at the front (or side) door of your hotel or as close as it can maneuver given your hotel’s location (check with the hotel before arriving). Your taxi captain should be able to tell you before boarding just how close he can get you. Try Corsorzio Motoscafi Venezia (www.motoscafivenezia.it; 041-5222303), or Venezia Taxi (www.veneziataxi.it; 041-723112).
BY TRAIN Trains from Rome (33⁄4 hr.), Milan (21⁄2 hr.), Florence (2 hr.), and all over Europe arrive at the Stazione Venezia Santa Lucia. To get there, all must pass through (although not necessarily stop at) a station marked Venezia-Mestre. Don’t be confused: Mestre is a charmless industrial city that’s the last stop on the mainland. Occasionally trains end in Mestre, in which case you have to catch one of the frequent 10-minute shuttles connecting with Venice; it’s inconvenient, so when you book your ticket, confirm that the final destination is Venezia Santa Lucia.
On exiting, you’ll find the Grand Canal immediately in front of you, with the docks for a number of vaporetti lines (the city’s public ferries or “water buses”) to your left and right. Head to the booths to your left, near the bridge, to catch either of the two lines plying the Grand Canal: the no. 2 express, which stops only at San Marcuola, Rialto Bridge, San Tomà, San Samuele, and Accademia before hitting San Marco (26 min. total); and the slower no. 1, which makes 13 stops before arriving at San Marco (a 33-min. trip). Both leave every 10 minutes or so, but in the mornings before 9am and the evenings after 8pm the no. 2 sometimes stops short at Rialto, meaning you’ll have to disembark and hop on the next no. 1 or 2 that comes along to continue to San Marco.
Note: The vaporetti go in two directions from the train station: left down the Grand Canal toward San Marco—which is the (relatively) fast and scenic way—and right, which also eventually gets you to San Marco (at the San Zaccaria stop) if you are on the 2, but takes more than twice as long because it goes the long way around Dorsoduro (and serves mainly commuters). If you get the no. 1 going to the right from the train station, it will go only one more stop before it hits its terminus at Piazzale Roma.
A dock for private water taxis is directly in front of the train station. These cost 65€ and offer speedy service directly to your hotel or destination.
BY BUS Although rail travel is more convenient and commonplace, Venice is serviced by long-distance buses from all over mainland Italy and some international cities. The final destination is Piazzale Roma, where you’ll need to pick up vaporetto no. 1 or no. 2 (as described above) to connect you with stops in the heart of Venice and along the Grand Canal.
BY CAR The only wheels you’ll see in Venice are those attached to luggage. No cars are allowed, or more to the point, no cars could drive through the narrow streets and over the footbridges—even the police, fire department, and ambulance services use boats. You can drive across the Ponte della Libertà from Mestre to Venice, but you can go no farther than Piazzale Roma at the Venice end, where many garages eagerly await your euros (and in high season, they’re often full). The Autorimessa Comunale garage (www.avmspa.it; 041-2727301) charges 26€ for a 24-hour period, while Garage San Marco (www.garagesanmarco.it; 041-5232213) costs 30€ for 24 hours. From Piazzale Roma, you can catch Vaporetti lines 1 and 2, described above, which go down the Grand Canal to the train station and, eventually, Piazza San Marco.
Vaporetti lines 1 and 2, described above, both stop at Piazzale Roma before continuing down the Grand Canal to the train station and, eventually, Piazza San Marco.
TOURIST OFFICES The most central office lies in the arcades off Piazza San Marco at Calle de l’Ascension 71/f (daily 9am-3:30pm; 041-2424). There are also offices at the Piazzale Roma garages (daily 9:30am-3:30pm), the train station (Stazione Venezia Santa Lucia; daily 8am-6:30pm), in the arrivals hall at Marco Polo Airport (daily 9am-8pm), and at the Venice Pavilion inside the Giardinetti Reali (daily noon-6pm), near Piazza San Marco. See also www.turismovenezia.it or www.veneziaunica.it.
The info-packed monthly (every 2 weeks in summer), Un Ospite di Venezia (www.unospitedivenezia.it) is a useful source of information; most hotels have free copies. Also very useful is VeneziaNews (www.venezianews.it), published monthly and sold at newsstands all over the city.
Even armed with the best map or a hefty smartphone data plan, expect to get a little bit lost in Venice, at least some of the time (GPS directions are notoriously unreliable here). Just view it as an opportunity to stumble across Venice’s most intriguing corners. Keep in mind as you wander seemingly hopelessly among the calli (streets) and campi (squares) that the city wasn’t built to make sense to those on foot but rather to those plying its canals.
Venice lies 4km (21⁄2 miles) from terra firma, connected to the mainland burg of Mestre by the Ponte della L ibertà, which leads to Piazzale Roma. Snaking through the city is the Grand Canal, the wide main artery of aquatic Venice.
A Note on Addresses
Within each sestiere is a most original system of numbering the palazzi, using one continuous string of 6,000 or so numbers. The format for addresses in this chapter is, where possible, the number with the actual street or campo on which you’ll find that address. But official mailing addresses (and what you’ll see written down in most places), are simply the sestiere name followed by the building number, which isn’t especially helpful—for example, San Marco 1471 may not necessarily be found close to San Marco 1473. Many buildings aren’t numbered at all.
The city is divided into six sestieri (“sixths,” or districts or wards): Cannaregio, Castello, San Marco, San Polo, Santa Croce, and Dorsoduro. In addition to the six sestieri that cluster around the Grand Canal there are a host of other islands in the Venice lagoon. Opposite Piazza San Marco and Dorsoduro is La Giudecca, a tranquil, mostly residential and working-class island that offers phenomenal views of Piazza San Marco. The Lido di Venezia is the city’s sandy beach island, a popular summer destination, while San Michele is the cemetery island where such celebrities as Stravinsky and Diaghilev are buried.
San Michele in Isola, Venice's cemetery island.
Murano, Burano, and Torcello are popular islands northeast of the city and easily accessible by vaporetto. Since the 13th century, Murano has exported its glass products worldwide. Fishing village Burano is dotted with colorful houses and is famous for its lace, an art now practiced by very few island women. Torcello is the most remote and least populated. The industrial city of Mestre, on the mainland, is the gateway to Venice, and while it holds no reason for exploration, in a pinch its host of inexpensive hotels is worth consideration when Venice’s are full.
The Neighborhoods in Brief
San Marco The central sestiere is anchored by the magnificent Piazza San Marco and St. Mark’s Basilica to the south and the Rialto Bridge to the north; it’s the most visited (and, as a result, the most expensive) of the sestieri. This is the commercial, religious, and political heart of the city and has been for more than a millennium. Although you’ll find glimpses and snippets of the real Venice here, ever-rising rents have nudged resident Venetians to look for housing in the outer neighborhoods: You’ll be hard-pressed to find a grocery store or dry cleaner, for example. This area is laced with first-class hotels—but we’ll give you some suggestions for staying in the heart of Venice without going broke.
Castello This quarter, whose tony esplanade Riva degli Schiavoni follows the Bacino di San Marco (St. Mark’s Basin), begins just east of Piazza San Marco, skirting Venice’s most congested area to the north and east. Riva degli Schiavoni can sometimes seem like Times Square on New Year’s Eve, but if you head farther east in the direction of the Arsenale or inland away from the bacino, the crowds thin out, despite the presence of such major sights as Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo and the Scuola di San Giorgio.
Dorsoduro You’ll find the residential area of Dorsoduro on the opposite side of the Accademia Bridge from San Marco. Known for the Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim museums, it is the largest of the sestieri and has been known as an artists’ haven until recent escalations of rents forced much of the community to relocate elsewhere. Good neighborhood restaurants, a charming gondola boatyard, the lively Campo Santa Margherita, and the sunny quay called le Zattere all add to its character and color.
San Polo This mixed-bag sestiere of residential corners and tourist sights stretches northwest of the Rialto Bridge to the church of Santa Maria dei Frari, and the Scuola di San Rocco. The hub of activity at the foot of the bridge is due in large part to the Rialto Market—some of the city’s best restaurants have flourished in the area for generations, alongside some of its worst tourist traps. The spacious Campo San Polo is the main piazza.
Santa Croce North and northwest of the San Polo district and across the Grand Canal from the train station, Santa Croce stretches all the way to Piazzale Roma. Its eastern section is generally one of the least-visited areas of Venice—making it all the more desirable for curious visitors. Less lively than San Polo, it is as authentic and feels light-years away from San Marco. The quiet and lovely Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio is its heart.
Cannaregio Sharing the same side of the Grand Canal with San Marco and Castello, Cannaregio stretches north and east from the train station to include the old Jewish Ghetto. Its outer reaches are quiet, unspoiled, and residential; one-quarter of Venice’s ever-shrinking population of 60,000 lives here. Most of the city’s one-star hotels are clustered about the train station—not a dangerous neighborhood but not one known for its charm, either. The tourist store-lined Lista di Spagna, which starts just to the left as you leave the train station, morphs into Strada Nova and provides an uninterrupted thoroughfare to the Rialto Bridge.
La Giudecca Located across the Giudecca Canal from the Piazza San Marco and Dorsoduro, La Giudecca is a tranquil working-class residential island where you’ll find a youth hostel and a handful of hotels (including the ultra-deluxe Hotel Cipriani, one of Europe’s finest).
Lido di Venezia This slim, 11km-long (63⁄4-mile) island, the only spot in the Venetian lagoon where cars circulate, is the city’s beach and separates the lagoon from the open sea. The landmark hotels here serve as a base for the annual Venice Film Festival.
Aside from on boats, the only way to explore Venice is by walking—and by getting lost repeatedly. You’ll navigate many twisting streets whose names change constantly and don’t appear on any map, and streets that may very well simply end in a blind alley or spill abruptly into a canal. You’ll also cross dozens of footbridges. Treat getting bewilderingly lost in Venice as part of the fun, and budget more time than you’d think necessary to get wherever you’re going.
STREET MAPS & SIGNAGE The map sold by the tourist office and free maps provided by most hotels don’t always show—much less name or index—all the calli (streets) and pathways of Venice. For that, pick up a more detailed map (ask for a pianta della città at news kiosks—especially those at the train station and around San Marco or most bookstores). The best (and most expensive) is the highly detailed Touring Club Italiano map, available in a variety of forms (folding or spiral-bound) and scales. Almost as good, and easier to carry, is the simple and cheap 1:6,500 folding map put out by Storti Edizioni.
Still, Venice’s confusing layout confounds even the best maps and navigators. You’re often better off just stopping every couple of blocks and asking a local to point you in the right direction (always know the name of the campo/square or major sight closest to the address you’re looking for, and ask for that).
The Grand Canal with Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute in the background.
As you wander, look for the ubiquitous yellow signs (well, usually yellow) whose destinations and arrows direct you toward five major landmarks: Ferrovia (the train station), Piazzale Roma (the parking garage), Rialto (one of the four bridges over the Grand Canal), San Marco (the city’s main square), and the Accademia (the southernmost Grand Canal bridge).
BY BOAT The various sestieri are linked by a comprehensive vaporetto (water bus/ferry) system of about a dozen lines operated by the Azienda del Consorzio Trasporti Veneziano (ACTV; actv.avmspa.it; 041-5287886). Transit maps are available at the tourist office and most ACTV stations. It’s easier to get around on foot, as the vaporetti principally serve the Grand Canal, the outskirts, and the outer islands. The crisscross network of small canals is the province of delivery vessels, gondolas, and private boats.
CRUISING THE CANALS
A leisurely cruise along the Grand Canal (p. 265) from Piazza San Marco to the train station (Ferrovia)—or the reverse—is one of Venice’s must-dos. It’s the world’s most unusual Main Street, a watery boulevard whose palazzi have been converted into condos. Lower water-lapped floors are now deserted, but the higher floors are still coveted by the city’s titled families, who have inhabited these glorious residences for centuries; others have become the summertime dream homes of privileged expats, drawn here as irresistibly as the romantic Venetians-by-adoption who preceded them—Richard Wagner, Robert Browning, Lord Byron, and (more recently) Woody Allen.
As much a symbol of Venice as the winged lion, the gondola is one of Europe’s great traditions, incredibly and inexplicably expensive but truly as romantic as it looks (detractors who write it off as too touristy have most likely never tried it). The official, fixed rate is 80€ for a 30-minute gondola tour for up to six passengers. The rate bumps up to 100€ from 7pm to 8am (for 35 minutes), and it’s 40€ for every additional 20 minutes (50€ at night). That’s not a typo: 150€ for a 55-minute evening cruise. Note: Although the price is fixed by the city, a good negotiator at the right time of day (when business is slow) can sometimes grab a small discount for a shorter ride. And at these ridiculously inflated prices, there is no need to tip the gondolier. You might also find discounts online.
Aim for late afternoon before sundown, when the light does its magic on the canal reflections (and bring a bottle of prosecco and glasses). If the gondola price is too high, ask visitors at your hotel or others lingering about at the gondola stations if they’d like to share it. Though the price is “fixed,” before setting off establish with the gondolier the cost, time, and route (back canals are preferable to the trafficked and often choppy Grand Canal). They’re regulated by the Ente Gondola (www.gondolavenezia.it; 041-5285075), so call if you have any questions or complaints.
And what of the serenading gondolier immortalized in film? Frankly, you’re better off without. But if warbling is de rigueur for you, here’s the scoop. An ensemble of accordion player and tenor is so expensive that it’s shared among several gondolas traveling together. A number of travel agents around town book the evening serenades for around 35€ per person.
There are 12 gondola stations around Venice, including Piazzale Roma, the train station, the Rialto Bridge, and Piazza San Marco. There are also a number of smaller stations, with gondolieri in striped shirts standing alongside their sleek 11m (36-ft.) black wonders looking for passengers. They all speak enough English to communicate the necessary details. Remember, if you just want a quick taster of being in a gondola, you can take a cheap traghetto across the Grand Canal.
A ticket for 75 minutes of travel (after validation) on a vaporetto is a steep 7.50€, while the 24-hour ticket is 20€. Most lines run every 10 to 15 minutes from 7am to midnight, and then hourly until morning. Most vaporetto docks (the only place you can buy tickets) have timetables posted. Note that not all docks sell tickets. If you haven’t bought a pass or extra tickets beforehand, you’ll have to settle up with the conductor onboard (you’ll have to find him—he won’t come looking for you) or risk a stiff fine of at least 52€, no excuses accepted. Also available are 48-hour tickets (30€) and 72-hour tickets (40€). If you’re planning to stay in Venice for a week and intend to use the vaporetto service a lot, it might make sense to pick up a Venezia Unica city pass (see “Venice Discounts,” on p. 271), with which you can buy vaporetto tickets for 1.50€. Validate tickets in the yellow machines before getting aboard.
Just four bridges span the Grand Canal, and to fill in the gaps, traghetti skiffs (oversize gondolas rowed by two standing gondolieri) cross the Grand Canal at seven intermediate points (during daylight hours only). You’ll find a station at the end of any street named Calle del Traghetto on your map (though not all of them have active ferries today; ask a local before walking to the canal), and are indicated by a yellow sign with the black gondola symbol. The fare is 4€ for non-residents, which you hand to the gondolier when boarding. Most Venetians cross standing up. For the experience, try the Santa Sofia crossing that connects the Ca’ d’Oro and the Pescheria fish market, opposite each other on the Grand Canal just north of the Rialto Bridge—the gondoliers expertly dodge water traffic at this point of the canal, where it’s the busiest and most heart-stopping.
BY WATER TAXI Taxi acquei (water taxis) charge high prices and aren’t for visitors watching their euros. The meter starts at a hefty 15€ and clicks at 2€ per minute. Each trip includes allowance for up to four to five pieces of luggage—beyond that there’s a surcharge of 3€ to 5€ per piece (rates differ slightly according to company and how you reserve a trip). Plus there’s a 10€ supplement for service from 10pm to 6am, and a 5€ charge for taxis on-call. Those rates cover up to four people; if any more squeeze in, it’s another 5€ to 10€ per extra passenger (maximum 10 people). Taking a taxi from the train station to Piazza San Marco or any of the hotels in the area will put you back about 80€ (the Lido is 90€), while there is a fixed 105€ fee (for up to four people) to go to the airport. Taxis to Burano or Torcello will be at least 120€. Note that only taxi boats with a yellow strip are the official operators sanctioned by the city. You can book trips with Consorzio Moscafi Venezia online at www.motoscafivenezia.it or call 041-5222303.
A gondola near the Rialto Bridge.
Six water-taxi stations serve key points in the city: the Ferrovia, Piazzale Roma, the Rialto Bridge, Piazza San Marco, the Lido, and Marco Polo Airport.
COME HELL OR HIGH WATER
During the tidal acqua alta (high water) floods, Venice’s lagoon rises until it engulfs the city, leaving up to 1.5 to 1.8m (5-6 ft.) of water in the lowest-lying streets. Piazza San Marco, as the lowest point in the city, goes first. As many as 50 floods a year have been recorded since they first started keeping track in the late 1700s.
Significant acqua alta can begin as early as late September or October, but usually takes place November to March. The waters usually recede after just a few hours. Walkways are set up around town, but wet feet are a given and locals tend to wear high-topped wading boots.
A complex system of hydraulic gates—the Modulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico or just “MOSE”—is being constructed out in the lagoon to cut off the highest of these high tides (controversial due to its environmental impact), but while the project is well underway, it won’t be operational until 2018 at the earliest. Tip: If you are curious to see acqua alta (and it is indeed a wonderful spectacle), but aren’t in Venice at the right time, you may still get lucky as very minor occurrences can happen all year round.
BY GONDOLA If you come all the way to Venice and don’t indulge in a gondola ride, you might still be kicking yourself long after you have returned home. Yes, it’s touristy, and, yes, it’s expensive (see “Cruising the Canals” on p. 229), but only those with a heart of stone will be unmoved by the quintessential Venetian experience. Don’t initiate your trip, however, until you have agreed upon a price and synchronized watches. Oh, and don’t ask them to sing.
Consulates See chapter 10.
Doctors & Hospitals The Ospedale Civile Santi Giovanni e Paolo ( 041-5294111), on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, has English-speaking staff and provides emergency service (go to the emergency room, pronto soccorso), 24 hours a day (vaporetto: San Tomà).
Emergencies The best number to call in Italy (and the rest of Europe) with a general emergency is 112; this connects you to the military-trained (and English-speaking) Carabinieri who will transfer your call as needed. For the police, dial 113; for a medical emergency and to call an ambulance, the number is 118; for the fire department, call 115. All are free calls.
Internet Access Most hotels, hostels, and bars now offer free Wi-Fi, and in 2009 Venice was one of the first cities in Italy to offer citywide Wi-Fi through a network of 200 hotspots. Visitors can buy packages online via www.veneziaunica.it: 5€ for 24 hr., 15€ for 3 days or 20€ for 7 days. Access codes are sent to your e-mail address; once in Venice look for the VeniceConnected network. Alternatively, there are plenty of “Internet points” (Internet cafes) dotted around the city, particularly in the busy areas around the Rialto, Piazza San Marco, and the railway station. Most charge 6€ to 8€ per hour.
Mail The most convenient post offices are: Venezia Centro at Calle de la Acque, San Marco ( 041-2404149), open Monday to Friday 8:25pm to 7:10pm and Saturday 8:25am to 12:35pm; Venezia 4 at Calle de l’Ascension 1241 ( 041-2446711), off the west side of Piazza San Marco (Tues-Fri 8:25am-1:35pm, Sat 8:25am-12:35pm); and Venezia 3 at Campo San Polo 2012 ( 041-5200315; same hours).
Pharmacies Venice’s pharmacies take turns staying open all night. To find out which one is on call in your area, ask at your hotel or check the rotational duty signs posted outside all pharmacies.
Safety Be aware of petty crime like pickpocketing on the crowded vaporetti, particularly the tourist routes, where passengers are more intent on the passing scenery than on watching their bags. Venice’s often deserted back streets are virtually crime-free, though occasional tales of theft have circulated. Generally speaking, Venice is one of Italy’s safest cities.
WHERE TO STAY
Few cities boast as long a high season as that of Venice, beginning with the Easter period. May, June, and September are the best months weather-wise and, therefore, the most crowded. July and August are hot (few of the one- and two-star hotels offer air-conditioning; when they do, it usually costs extra). Like everything else, hotels are more expensive here than in any other Italian city, with no apparent upgrade in amenities. The least special of those below are clean and functional; at best, they’re charming and thoroughly enjoyable, with the serenade of a passing gondolier thrown in for good measure. Some may even provide you with your best stay in all of Europe.
It’s highly advisable to reserve in advance, even in the off-season. If you haven’t booked, come as early as you can on your arrival day, definitely before noon. Another alternative to reserve upon your arrival is through the A.V.A. (Venetian Hoteliers Association), online at www.veneziasi.it or 041-5222264. Simply state the price range you want to book, and they’ll confirm a hotel while you wait. There are offices at the train station, in Piazzale Roma garages, and in the airport.
SEASONAL CONSIDERATIONS Most hotels observe high- and low-season rates, and the high-end hotels generally adapt their prices to availability. In the prices listed below, single figures represent rack rates, because the price varies too widely depending on availability, and you can usually get a room for much less, even in high season.
HOTELS BY PRICE
Al Ponte Antico , p. 243
Arcadia , p. 244
Corte Di Gabriela , p. 236
Giorgione , p. 244
Londra Palace , p. 237
Luna Hotel Baglioni , p. 236
Metropole , p. 238
Moresco , p. 240
Ai Due Fanali , p. 242
Al Piave , p. 238
American Dinesen , p. 240
Antica Locanda al Gambero , p. 236
Antiche Figure , p. 243
Ca’ Barba B&B , p. 242
Casa Verardo , p. 238
Galleria , p. 240
Locanda Fiorita , p. 237
Locanda Orseolo , p. 237
Pensione Accademia , p. 241
Pensione Guerrato , p. 242
Violino d’Oro , p. 237
Ai Tagliapietra , p. 239
B&B San Marco , p. 239
Bernardi , p. 245
Falier , p. 243
San Geremia , p. 245
Anyone looking to get into the local swing of things in Venice should stay in a short-term rental apartment. For the same price or less than a hotel room, you could have your own one-bedroom apartment with a washing machine, air-conditioning, and a fridge to keep your wine in. Properties of all sizes and styles, in every price range, are available for stays of 3 nights to several weeks.
It’s standard practice for local rental agencies to collect 30% of the total rental amount upfront to secure a booking. When you get to Venice and check in, the balance of your rental fee is normally payable in cash only, so make sure you have enough euros before you leave home. Upon booking, the agency should provide you with detailed “check-in” procedures. Normally, you’re expected to call a cell or office phone when you arrive in Venice, and then the keyholder will meet you at the front door of the property at the agreed-upon time. Before the keyholder disappears, make sure you have a few numbers to call in case of an emergency. Otherwise, most apartments come with information sheets that list neighborhood shops and services. Beyond that, you’re on your own, which is what makes an apartment stay such a great way to do as the Venetians do.
Airbnb (www.airbnb.com) is now a major player in Venice, with over 300 properties listed from just 30€ per night. Couchsurfing (www.couchsurfing.com) is also popular and generally safe in Venice, but take the usual precautions using the apartment-swapping service. Cities Reference (www.citiesreference.com; 06-48903612) is the best all-around apartment rental agency for Venice, with around 240 properties listed. Their no-surprises property descriptions come with helpful bits of information and lots of photos. Cross Pollinate (www.cross-pollinate.com; 06-99369799) is a multi-destination agency but with a decent roster of personally inspected apartments and B&Bs in Venice. It was created by the American owners of the Beehive Hotel in Rome (p. 64), and they and their staff now travel around and find places that they can recommend. GowithOh (www.gowithoh.com; 800/567-2927 in the U.S.) is a hip rental agency that covers 13 European cities, Venice among them. The website is fun to navigate, offers money-saving tips and lists more than 220 apartments for rent in the city. Rental in Venice (www.rentalinvenice.com; 041-718981) has an alluring website—with video clips of the apartments—and the widest selection of midrange and luxury apartments in the prime San Marco zone (there are less expensive ones, too).
Corte Di Gabriela This gorgeous boutique hotel just a short walk from Piazza San Marco combines contemporary design and classical Venetian style—ceiling murals, marble pillars, and exposed brick blend with designer furniture and appliances (including free use of iPads, strong Wi-Fi, and satellite TV). The fully renovated property dates from 1870, once serving as the home and offices of Venetian lawyers. It’s the attention to detail that makes a stay here so memorable, with breakfast one of the highlights and well worth lingering over: fresh pastries made by the owners the night before, decent espresso, and crepes and omelets made on request.
Calle degli Avvocati 3836. www.cortedigabriela.com. 041-5235077. 10 units. 250€-455€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Sant’ Angelo. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service (limited hours); Wi-Fi (free).
Luna Hotel Baglioni Perfectly situated on the lagoon just around the corner from the bustle of Piazza San Marco, this is the oldest hotel in Venice, housed in a building from 1118 that was once a church before Napoleon destroyed its sacristy. Today, the boutique property, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, is a cocoon of privacy and comfort; the bright lobby with Murano chandeliers gives way to plush rooms decorated with antique furnishings, brocade, and original artwork from the 1700s. The breakfast room is especially noteworthy: With a room length mural and intricately painted ceiling frescoes created in the 18th century by students of Tiepolo, it makes every cup of coffee feel like a regal break. Staff here is especially attentive and professional.
San Marco, 1243. www.baglionihotels.com. 041-5289840. 91 units. 340€-925€. Vaporetto: San Marco. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; babysitting; concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Antica Locanda al Gambero The best attribute of this typically cute, small Venetian hotel is the location, just a 2-minute walk from Piazza San Marco. Rooms are dressed in a bright rococo style with modern extras like satellite TV and air-conditioning, and most have lovely views of the local canal (but not all—check when you book to avoid disappointment). No elevator (remember that a “fourth floor” room in Italy is actually on the fifth floor, quite a climb), and small breakfast buffet, but free Internet terminals in the lobby for those without their own devices, and a small rooftop patio with two tables few guests seem to use.
Calle dei Fabbri 4687. www.locandaalgambero.com. 041-5224384. 30 units. 75€-160€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Rialto (turn right along canal, cross footbridge over Rio San Salvador, then left onto Calle Bembo, which becomes Calle dei Fabbri; hotel is about 5 blocks ahead on left). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Locanda Fiorita Hard to imagine a more picturesque location for this little hotel, a charming, quiet, campiello draped in vines and blossoms—no wonder it’s a favorite of professional photographers. Standard rooms are small (bathrooms are tiny), but all are furnished in an elegant 18th-century style, with wooden floors, shuttered windows, and richly patterned fittings (A/C and satellite TV are included). The helpful staff more than make up for any deficiencies, and breakfast is a real pleasure, especially when taken outside on the campiello.
Campiello Novo 3457a. www.locandafiorita.com. 041-5234754. 10 units. 70€-180€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Sant’Angelo (walk to the tall brick building and go around it, turning right into Ramo Narisi; at a small bridge turn left and walk along Calle del Pestrin until you see a small piazza on your right [Campiello Novo]; the hotel is immediately opposite). Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Locanda Orseolo Enticing inn made up of three elegant guesthouses operated by the friendly Peruch family, located right behind Piazza San Marco. This place really oozes character, with exposed wood beams and heavy drapes giving a medieval feel and rooms lavishly decorated with Venetian-style furniture and tributes to the masks of the Carnevale—a cross between an artist’s studio and Renaissance palace. Lounge with an aperitif on the terrace overlooking the Orseolo canal, and enjoy eggs and crepes made to order at breakfast, while watching the gondolas glide by.
Corte Zorzi 1083. www.locandaorseolo.com. 041-5204827. 15 units. 150€-250€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: San Marco. Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Violino d’Oro The relatively spacious rooms in this handsome 18th-century building have been adorned in a neoclassical Venetian style with exposed wooden beams, crystal chandeliers, and heaps of character. Most rooms also overlook the romantic San Moisè canal, and Piazza San Marco is just a 5-minute stroll. At this price (with incredible low season deals), it’s reassuring to know you get air-conditioning, satellite TV, and an elevator. Breakfast is a vast spread of homemade cakes and muffins paired with one of the best cappuccinos in the city.
Calle Larga XXII Marzo 2091. www.violinodoro.com. 041-2770841. 26 units. 99€-209€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: San Marco-Vallaresso (walk up Calle di Ca’ Vallaresso, turn left on Salizada San Moisè and cross the footbridge; the hotel is across the campiello on the left). Amenities: Bar; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Londra Palace This white-marble beauty, part of the Relais & Chateaux stable, occupies a prime location overlooking the waterfront promenade—get a room with a balcony to make the most of the spectacular views. All rooms are spacious, with lofty ceilings, 19th-century Biedermeier-style furniture, and satellite TV. This is another place with an intriguing history: The core of the hotel dates back to 1853 when it was the Hotel d’Angleterre, beefed up by a “neolombardesque-style” extension in the 1860s. Tchaikovsky was a guest here in December 1877; legend has it he composed the first three movements of his Symphony No. 4 in room no. 106.
Riva degli Schiavoni 4171. www.londrapalace.com. 041-5200533. 53 units. 285€-470€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Metropole This five-star behemoth with a waterfront location is part luxury hotel, part eclectic art museum, with antiques, Asian artworks, and tapestries dotted throughout. But it’s no dusty grand dame; on the contrary, the hotel is a chic boutique with rooms furnished with a classic Oriental theme. The building has an incredible history, beginning life in the Middle Ages as the Ospedale della Pietà, serving as a charitable institution for orphans and abandoned girls, and later a music school (Vivaldi taught violin here in the early 1700s). After it was converted into a hotel in 1895, Sigmund Freud was an early guest, as was Thomas Mann, who allegedly wrote parts of Death in Venice here.
Riva degli Schiavoni 4149. www.hotelmetropole.com. 041-5205044. 67 units. 176€-290€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (walk along Riva degli Schiavoni to the right; the hotel is next to La Pietà church). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Al Piave Al Piave is a cozy, old-fashioned family-run hotel just 5 minutes from Piazza San Marco. Rooms are simply but attractively furnished with richly woven rugs, marble floors, and some of the original wood beams exposed (some come with a terrace, while the family suites are a good value for groups). Bathrooms are relatively big, and the A/C a welcome bonus in the summer, but there are no elevators, so be prepared if you get a higher floor. Outside of peak months (July, Sept), Piave is an exceptionally good value, given its proximity to the piazza.
Ruga Giuffa 4838. www.hotelalpiave.com. 041-5285174. 20 units. 110€-175€ double, includes breakfast. Closed Jan 7 to Carnevale. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (find Calle delle Rasse beyond Palazzo Danieli, and walk to the end of the street; turn left and then immediately right; continue to tiny Ponte Storto, cross and continue to Ruga Giuffa—the hotel is on the left). Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Casa Verardo Tucked away across a small bridge in the warren of central Castello, this enchanting hotel occupies a 16th-century palazzo, though it’s been a hotel since 1911. Rooms sport an old-fashioned Venetian style, with Florentine furniture, hand-painted beds, and colorful textiles (there are antiques and paintings scattered throughout), but updated with air-conditioning and satellite TV. Some rooms have a view over a canal, others over the shady courtyard and the city. Don’t miss the top floor, where the panoramic terrace is a pleasant spot for an aperitif. They’ll also take you to Murano for free, but you have to find your own way back.
Calle Drio La Chiesa 4765 (at foot of Ponte Storto). www.casaverardo.it. 041-5286138. 25 units. 98€-240€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (walk straight on Calle delle Rasse to Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo; cross the campo to Calle della Sacrestia, then Calle Drio La Chiesa to Ponte Storto, and look for the hotel on the left). Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Ai Tagliapietra This cozy B&B is run by the amicable Lorenzo (who will bend over backwards to make your stay memorable), and a real bargain in this part of town. Rooms are basic, but spotless, modern, and relatively spacious with private bathrooms. The small, shared kitchenette is for guests’ use (with refrigerator and free tea). Lorenzo will usually meet you at San Zaccaria, give you a map, print your boarding passes, and generally organize your trip if you desire, making this an especially recommended option for first-time visitors.
Salizada Zorzi 4943. www.aitagliapietra.com. 347-3233166. 4 units. 75€-110€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (walk straight on Calle delle Rasse to Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo; cross the campo to Calle della Sacrestia; take the first left; cross Salita Corte Rotta and continue to Salizada Zorzi). Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).
B&B San Marco With just three rooms, this exquisite B&B in a peaceful, residential neighborhood fills up fast, so book ahead. It’s a comfortable, charming yet convenient option, the kind of place that makes you feel like a local, but not too far from the main sights. Your hosts are the bubbly Marco and Alice Scurati, who live in the attic upstairs, happy to provide help and advice. Rooms overlook the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni and offer wonderful views of the canal and streetscapes nearby, and are furnished with antique furniture. Two rooms share a bathroom; the third has private facilities. Breakfast is self-service in the shared kitchen; yogurts, pastries, espresso, cappuccino, juice, and tea.
Fondamenta San Giorgio dei Schiavoni 3385. www.realvenice.it. 041-5227589. 3 units. 70€-125€ double, includes breakfast. Closed August and Jan 7 to Carnevale. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (walk on Calle delle Rasse to Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo; cross the campo to Calle della Sacrestia, cross the canal and take a left at Campo S Provolo along Fondamenta Osmarin; turn left where the canal ends at a larger canal, and walk to the bridge that connects to Calle Lion; at the end of the street turn left along the canal; this is Fondamenta San Giorgio dei Schiavoni). Amenities: Wi-Fi (free).
Moresco An incredibly attentive staff, a decadent breakfast that includes prosecco (to mix with orange juice, ahem), and lavish 19th-century Venetian decor away from the tourist hubbub make this a popular choice. Rooms seamlessly blend Venetian style with modern design. Some have a terrace (with canal or garden views), while others have spa bathtubs; all have flatscreen TVs with satellite channels. If the weather cooperates, take breakfast in the courtyard garden. The hotel is a 5- to 10-minute walk from Piazzale Roma and the train station, but there are a number of bridges and stairs to negotiate along the way.
Fondamenta del Rio Novo 3499, Dorsoduro. www.hotelmorescovenice.com. 041-2440202. 23 units. 210€-320€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Ferrovia/Piazzale Roma (from the train station walk southwest along Fondamenta Santa Lucia, cross Ponte della Costituzione and turn left onto Fondamenta Santa Chiara; cross Ponte Santa Chiara and turn right onto Fondamenta Papadopoli, continuing across Campiello Lavadori then along Fondamenta del Rio Novo). Amenities: Bar; concierge; free trips to Murano; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
American Dinesen Overlooking the San Vio Canal close to the Accademia, this 17th-century Venetian town house offers elegant rooms decorated in a classical Venetian style, with all the usual modern amenities including LCD TV. All the “superior canal” view rooms have picture-perfect views of the San Vio, many with a balcony (check if this is important to you), and even partial views of the Grand Canal. Cheaper, modern “dependence rooms” are located in the annex next door and don’t include breakfast.
San Vio 628 (on Fondamenta Bragadin). www.hotelamerican.it. 041-5204733. 30 units. 130€-270€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Accademia (veer left around the Accademia, taking the 1st left turn, then straight ahead until you cross the 1st small footbridge; turn right along the Fondamenta Bragadin and the hotel is on the left). Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; free Murano trips; Wi-Fi (free).
A character-filled room at Hotel Galleria.
Galleria Just around the corner from the Accademia, right on the Grand Canal, this hotel occupies a 19th-century palazzo in one of the most inviting locations in the city. It’s been a hotel since the 1800s, hosting poet Robert Browning in 1878, and maintains a Venetian 18th-century theme in the rooms, with wood furniture and rococo decor. Hosts Luciano and Stefano serve a simple breakfast in your room. The smallest rooms here really are tiny, and there is no A/C (rooms are supplied with fans when it gets hot), but the fridge of free water and sodas is a lifesaver in summer.
Dorsoduro 878a (at foot of Accademia Bridge). www.hotelgalleria.it. 041-5232489. 9 units, 6 with bathroom. 110€-260€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Accademia (with Accademia Bridge behind you, hotel is just to your left). Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free in public areas).
The dining room and patio at Pensione Accademia.
Pensione Accademia This spellbinding hotel with a tranquil blossom-filled garden has a fascinating history. The Gothic-style Villa Maravege was built in the 17th century as a family residence, but served as the Russian Embassy between the wars, before becoming a hotel in 1950. If that’s not enticing enough, the rooms are fitted with Venetian-style antique reproductions, wood furnishings, handsome tapestries, and A/C, with views over either the Rio San Trovaso or the garden. Breakfast is served in your room, in the dining hall, or on the patio.
Fondamenta Bollani 1058. www.pensioneaccademia.it. 041-5210188. 27 units. 130€-320€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Accademia (turn right down Calle Gambara, which becomes Calle Corfu, which ends at a side canal; walk left to cross over the bridge, and then turn right back toward the Grand Canal and the hotel). Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Ca’ Barba B&B What you’ll remember most about Ca’ Barba may well be the host, Alessandro, who will usually meet guests at the Rialto vaporetto stop; inspire daily wanderings with tips, maps, and books; and provide fresh breads and pastries from the local bakery for breakfast. Of the four rooms, no. 201 is the largest and brightest, with a Jacuzzi tub (202 also has one). All rooms come with antique furniture, 19th-century paintings, wood-beamed ceilings, LCD TVs, A/C, and strong Wi-Fi.
Calle Campanile Castello 1825. www.cabarba.com. 041-5242816. 4 units. 75€-160€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Rialto (walk back along the Grand Canal, and turn left at Calle Campanile Castello). Amenities: Concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Pensione Guerrato Dating, incredibly, from 1227, this is definitely one of the city’s most historic places to lay your head. The building’s long and complicated history—it was once the “Inn of the Monkey,” run by nuns, the original mostly destroyed by fire in 1513—is well worth delving into (the owners have all the details). Rooms are simply but classically furnished, with wood floors, exposed beams, air-conditioning, and private bathrooms—some rooms still contain original frescos, possibly dating from the medieval inn. Note that some rooms are on the sixth floor—and there’s no elevator.
Calle Drio La Scimia 240a (near the Rialto Market). www.hotelguerrato.com. 041-5227131. 19 units. 100€-145€ double, includes breakfast. Closed Dec 22-26 and Jan 8 to early Feb. Vaporetto: Rialto (from the north side of the Ponte Rialto, walk through the market until the corner with the UniCredit Banca; go 1 more short block and turn right; the hotel is halfway along Calle Drio La Scimia). Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Ai Due Fanali Originally a wooden oratory frequented by fishermen and farmers (later rebuilt), this beguiling hotel features small but artsy rooms, even for Venice: Headboards have been hand-painted by a local artist, exposed wood beams crisscross the ceiling, and vintage drapes and curtains add a cozy feel (work by Jacopo Palma the Younger, the 16th-c. Mannerist painter, adorns the public areas). The bathrooms are embellished with terra-cotta tiles and Carrera marble. The location is excellent for the train station, while the roof terrace on the third floor is the best place to soak up a panorama of the city (breakfast is served up here). It’s incredibly popular—book months ahead.
Campo San Simeon Profeta 946. www.aiduefanali.com. 041-718490. 16 units. 120€-228€ double, includes breakfast. Closed most of Jan. Vaporetto: Ferrovia (cross the Scalzi bridge over the Grand Canal; once you are to the other side, continue straight, taking the 2nd left and keep walking to the Campo San Simeon Profeta). Amenities: Bar; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Antiche Figure The most convenient luxury hotel in Venice lies directly across the Grand Canal from the train station, a captivating 15th-century palazzo adjacent to an ancient gondola workshop. History aside, this is a very plush choice, with rooms decorated in neoclassical Venetian style, with gold leaf, antique furniture, red carpets, silk tapestries, and aging Murano glass and chandeliers, but also LCD satellite TVs and decent Wi-Fi. With the soothing nighttime views across the water it’s certainly a romantic choice, and the staff is worth singling out—friendly and very helpful. There is an elevator, just in case you were wondering.
Fondamenta San Simeone Piccolo 687. www.hotelantichefigure.it. 041-2759486. 22 units. 110€-345€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Ferrovia (from the train station you just need to cross the Scalzi Bridge on your left and take a right). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Falier Tranquil budget hotel set in a quiet neighborhood, next to the Frari Church and just a 10-minute walk from the train station. Rooms are fairly compact (and could be a little cramped for some), but par for this price point in Venice, and all are air-conditioned and come with free Wi-Fi and satellite TV (although there rarely seems to be any English-language channels). The elegant garden is a great place for breakfast (you can also have it in the dining room), with warm croissants, cheese, and a selection of yogurts and cereals, teas and coffees, and fruit juices. The hotel provides free entrance to the Venice casino and a free tour of a Murano glass factory, but the friendly English-speaking staff will also set you up with all manner of other tour options.
Salizada San Pantalon 130. www.hotelfalier.com. 041-710882. 19 units. 70€-240€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Ferrovia. (From the train station, cross the Scalzi Bridge, turn right along the Grand Canal an walk to the first footbridge; turn left before crossing the bridge and continue along the smaller canal to Fondamenta Minotti; turn left here, and the street becomes Salizada San Pantalon.) Amenities: Concierge; Wi-Fi (free).
Al Ponte Antico Yes it’s expensive, but this is one of the most exclusive hotels in Venice, steps from the Rialto Bridge, with a private wharf on the Grand Canal—to indulge your James Bond fantasy, look no further. Part of the attraction is size. There are only seven rooms, and the attention to lavish detail is astounding. The rococo wallpaper, rare tapestries, elegant beds, and Louis XV-style furnishings make this place seem like Versailles on the water. The building was originally a 16th-century palazzo; one of the many highlights is the charming balcony where breakfast is served, and where Bellinis are offered in the evenings.
Calle dell’Aseo 5768. www.alponteantico.com. 041-2411944. 7 units. 280€-490€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Rialto (walk up Calle Large Mazzini, take the 2nd left and then cross Campo San Bartolomio; walk north along Salizada S.G. Grisostomo to Calle dell’Aseo on the left). Amenities: Bar; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Breakfast is prepared at Hotel Al Ponte Antico.
Arcadia This sensational, modestly advertised boutique set in a 17th-century palazzo has an appealing blend of old and new: The theme is Byzantium east-meets-west, combining elements of Venetian and Asian style, but the rooms are full of cool, modern touches—rainfall showers, A/C, flatscreen TVs, bathrobes, and posh toiletries, with a lobby crowned with a Murano glass chandelier. It’s a 5-minute walk from the train station.
Rio Terà San Leonardo 1333, Cannaregio. www.hotelarcadia.net. 041-717355. 17 units. 120€-330€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Guglie (take a left into the main street Rio Terà San Leonardo; Arcadia is just 30m [98 ft.] on the left). Amenities: Bar; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Giorgione An elegant gem of a hotel, located in a grand 18th-century building. Staying here really is like taking a trip back to old Venice. The combination of old and new works well: Rooms are a little worn, but that adds to the historic ambience, with antique furniture and Venetian decor, fabrics, Murano glass chandeliers, and also satellite TV. In the summer, the generous breakfast is served in the pretty fountain courtyard.
Campo SS. Apostoli 4587. www.hotelgiorgione.com. 041-5225810. 76 units. 105€-220€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro (walk up Calle Ca’ d’Oro and turn right onto Strada Nuova, which ends in Campo SS Apostoli). Amenities: Bar; babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
Bernardi This hotel is an excellent deal, with small, basic but spotless rooms in a 16th-century palazzo (the superior rooms are bigger), owned and managed by the congenial Leonardo and his wife, Teresa. Most rooms come with one or two classical Venetian touches: Murano chandeliers, hand-painted furniture, exposed wood beams and tapestries. The shared showers are kept very clean (11 rooms have private bathrooms), and fans are provided in the hot summer months for the cheaper rooms with no A/C. Breakfast is very basic, however, and note that the more spacious annex rooms, which have air-conditioning (nearby the main building) don’t appear to get good Wi-Fi coverage.
Calle de l’Oca 4366. www.hotelbernardi.com. 041-5227257. 18 units, 11 with private bathroom. 50€-110€ double, includes breakfast. Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro (walk to Strada Nova, turn right to Campo SS. Apostoli; in the square, turn left and take the 1st left onto Calle de l’Oca). Amenities: Concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
San Geremia This is an excellent budget option just 10 minutes from the train station. Rooms are simple but adequate, and most have air-conditioning and views across the canal or campo. There is no elevator (some rooms are up 3 flights of stairs), and breakfast is not provided (but you get 50% off breakfast next door). There are no TVs in the rooms but there is strong Wi-Fi. The dorm rooms are a good deal at just 21€ to 25€ per night (for guests under 35 only). Cash only.
Campo San Geremia 283. www.hotelsangeremia.com. 041-715562. 20 units, 14 with private bathroom. 51€-111€ double. Closed the week of Christmas. Vaporetto: Ferrovia (exit the train station, turn left onto Lista di Spagna, and continue to Campo San Geremia). Amenities: Babysitting; concierge; room service; Wi-Fi (free).
A quick ferry straight across from the cacophony of Piazza San Marco brings you to the quiet charms of Giudecca Island and its spectacular views across the lagoon to Venice. This is where you’ll find Belmond Hotel Cipriani (Giudecca 10; www.belmond.com/hotel-cipriani-venice; 041-240801), the most famous hotel in Venice, if not all of northern Italy, with its enormous saltwater pool, decadent spa, and rambling gardens. It’s extremely expensive, but keep an eye out for shoulder-season deals (the hotel is closed during winter months). Or just come for a meal at waterside Cip’s Club, where dinner comes with a sparkling view of Piazza San Marco.
BACARI & CICCHETTI
One of the essential culinary experiences of Venice is trawling the countless neighborhood bars known as bacari, where you can stand or sit with tramezzini (small, triangular white-bread half-sandwiches filled with everything from thinly sliced meats and tuna salad to cheeses and vegetables), and cicchetti (tapaslike finger foods, such as calamari rings, speared fried olives, potato croquettes, or grilled polenta squares), traditionally washed down with a small glass of wine, Veneto prosecco, or spritz (a fluorescent cocktail of prosecco and orange-flavored Aperol). All of the above will cost approximately 1.50€ to 6€ if you stand at the bar, as much as double when seated. Bar food is displayed on the countertop or in glass counters and usually sells out by late afternoon, so though it can make a great lunch, don’t rely on it for a light dinner. A concentration of popular, well-stocked bars can be found along the Mercerie shopping strip that connects Piazza San Marco with the Rialto Bridge, the always lively Campo San Luca (look for Bar Torino, Bar Black Jack, or the character-filled Leon Bianco wine bar), and Campo Santa Margherita.
WHERE TO EAT
Eating cheaply in Venice is not easy, though it’s by no means impossible. The city’s reputation for mass-produced menus, bad service, and wildly overpriced food is, sadly, well-warranted, and if you’ve been traveling in other parts of the country, you may be a little disappointed here. Having said that, everything is relative—this is still Italy after all—and there are plenty of excellent dining options in Venice. As a basic rule, value for money tends to increase the further you travel away from Piazza San Marco, and anything described as a menù turistico, while cheaper than a la carte, is rarely any good in Venice (exceptions noted below). Note also that compared with Rome and other points south, Venice is a city of early meals: You should be seated by 7:30 to 8:30pm. Most kitchens close at 10 or 10:30pm, even though the restaurant may stay open later.
While most restaurants in Italy include a cover charge (coperto) that usually runs 1.50€ to 3€, in Venice they tend to instead tack on 10% to 12% to the bill for “taxes and service.” Some places in Venice will very annoyingly charge you the cover and still add on 12%. A menu should state clearly what extras the restaurant charges (sometimes you’ll find it in fine print at the bottom) and if it doesn’t, take your business elsewhere.
VENETIAN CUISINE Venice has a distinguished culinary history, much of it based on its geographical position on the sea. For first courses, both pasta and risotto are commonly prepared with fish or seafood: Risotto al nero di seppia or alle seppioline (tinted black by the ink of cuttlefish, also called risotto nero or black risotto) or spaghetti alle vongole (with clams; clams without their shells are not a good sign) are two specialties. Both appear with frutti di mare, “fruit of the sea,” which is mixed shellfish. Bigoli, a thick spaghetti that’s perfect for catching lots of sauce, is a Venetian staple, as is creamy polenta, often served with gamberetti (small shrimp) or tiny shrimp called schie, or as an accompaniment to fegato alla veneziana (calf’s liver cooked with onions and white wine). Some of the fish and seafood dishes Venice does particularly well include branzino (a kind of sea bass), rombo (turbot or brill), moeche (soft-shelled crab) or granseola (crab), and sarde in saor (sardines in onions, vinegar, pinenuts, and raisins).
Try the dry white Tocai and pinot from the Friuli region to the northeast of Venice and the light, sparkling prosecco that Venetians consume almost like a soft drink. Popular local red wines include Bardolino, Valpolicella, and Soave, all of which come from the surrounding Veneto region. Grappa, the local firewater, is an acquired taste and is often offered in many variations.
RESTAURANTS BY CUISINE
Caffè dei Frari , p. 286
Caffè Florian , p. 286
Caffè Lavena , p. 286
Gran Caffè Quadri , p. 286
Il Caffè (aka Caffe Rosso) , p. 287
Marchini Time , p. 287
Pasticceria Nobile , p. 287
Rosticceria San Bartolomeo , p. 251
Gelato Fantasy , p. 259
Il Doge , p. 260
La Mela Verde , p. 260
Nico , p. 269
Al Bacco Felice , p. 256
Alle Testiere , p. 252
Al Vecio Canton , p. 253
Bacaromi , p. 258
San Trovaso , p. 255
Al Vecio Canton , p. 253
Al Covo , p. 251
Alle Corone , p. 252
Da Rioba , p. 257
A Beccafico , p. 249
Ai Artisti , p. 254
Ai Cugnai , p. 254
Al Covo , p. 251
Alla Basilica , p. 253
Alle Corone , p. 252
Alle Testiere , p. 252
Bacareto Da Lele , p. 256
Bacaromi , p. 258
Bistrot de Venise , p. 250
Da Fiore , p. 251
Do Mori , p. 256
Do Spade , p. 255
Locanda Montin , p. 254
L’Orto dei Mori , p. 257
Osteria Alla Ciurma , p. 256
Osteria Al Squero , p. 255
Osteria Da Rioba , p. 257
Rosticceria San Bartolomeo , p. 251
San Trovaso , p. 255
Taverna al Remer , p. 258
Bacareto Da Lele , p. 256
Do Mori , p. 256
Osteria Alla Ciurma , p. 256
Osteria Al Squero , p. 255
A Beccafico SICILIAN Take a trip to Sicily for a refreshing change from Venetian cuisine, with a menu rich in seafood pastas (such as a simple but delicious spaghetti alle vongole) and fresh tuna, sea bream, fabulous calamari, and swordfish—the waiters will advise on the fish of the day and specials such as eggplant ragout. For dessert, you’d be remiss to ignore the utterly addictive tiramisu, and the evening is usually rounded off with complimentary limoncello. The location is charming; sit outside to enjoy the people watching in Campo Santo Stefano. On the downside, service can be hit and miss, and though the food is good, the high prices reflect the location rather than overall quality.
Campo Santo Stefano 2801. www.abeccafico.com. 041-5274879. Reservations recommended. Main courses 24€-32€. Daily noon-3pm and 7-11pm. Vaporetto: Accademia (cross bridge to San Marco side and walk straight ahead to Campo Santo Stefano; the restaurant is on your right and toward the back end of the campo).
Bistrot de Venise VENETIAN Though it looks a bit like a wood-paneled French bistro, the menu here is primarily old-school Venetian, specializing in rare wines and historical recipes from the 14th to 18th centuries. It’s gimmicky, but it works; think old-fashioned fennel soup, homemade pasta with goose sauce and pinenuts, and almond-crusted sturgeon in a black grape sauce, with a yellow garlic and almond pudding. The “historical” tasting menu is a splurge, but we recommend it as the best introduction. Whatever you opt for, expect service to be top-notch.
4685 Calle dei Fabbri. www.bistrotdevenise.com. 041-5236651. Main courses 26€-36€; classic Venetian tasting menu 68€; historical 5-course Venetian menu 95€. Daily: bar 10am-midnight, restaurant noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight. Vaporetto: Rialto (turn right along canal, cross small footbridge over Rio San Salvador, turn left onto Calle Bembo, which becomes Calle dei Fabbri; Bistrot is about 5 blocks ahead).
The staff at Bistrot de Venise.
Da Fiore VENETIAN A classy but laid-back Venetian trattoria (not to be confused with the posher osteria with the same name). The menu features typical Venetian dishes like squid ink pasta, but the specials here are the most fun, with moeche (local soft-shell crab) a particular treat (the two main seasons are Mar-Apr and Oct-Nov). Desserts see all sorts of sugary golosessi on offer, from buranelli to zaletti (cornmeal cookies, typically eaten dipped in sweet wine or chocolate), and an exceptional sgroppino al limone (lemon sherbet). Make sure you visit the bar and cicchetteria next door, the Bacaro di Fiore (Wed-Mon 9am-10pm), which has been around since 1871, serving cheap wine and finger food like fried fish, fried vegetables and crostini with creamed cod.
Calle delle Botteghe 3461, off Campo Santo Stefano. www.dafiore.it. 041-5235310. Main courses 16€-28€. Wed-Mon noon-3pm and 7-10pm. Closed 2 weeks in Jan and 2 weeks in Aug. Vaporetto: Accademia (cross bridge to San Marco side and walk straight to Campo Santo Stefano; as you are about to exit the campo at northern end, take a left onto Calle delle Botteghe; also close to Sant’Angelo vaporetto stop).
Rosticceria San Bartolomeo DELI/VENETIAN Also known as Rosticceria Gislon, this no-frills spot has a cheap canteen popular with locals and a more expensive upstairs dining room. Don’t be fooled by appearances—the downstairs section is just as good, with a range of grilled fish and seafood pastas on offer, and a tasty “mozzarella in carrozza” (fried cheese sandwich). There is a discount if you order to take out. Otherwise just sit at the counter and soak up the animated scene, as the cooks chop, customers chat, and people come and go. Order the roast chicken, salt cod, or polenta—typical Venetian fare without all those extra charges.
Calle della Bissa 5424. 041-5223569. Main courses 10€-24€. Daily 9:30am-9:30pm (Mon until 3:30pm). Vaporetto: Rialto (with bridge at your back on San Marco side of canal, walk straight to Campo San Bartolomeo; take underpass slightly to your left marked SOTTOPORTEGO DELLABISSA; the rosticceria is at the 1st corner on your right; look for GISLON above the entrance).
Al Covo SEAFOOD/VENETIAN For years, this high-quality Venetian restaurant from Diane and Cesare Benelli has been deservingly popular with American food writers (and TV chefs such as Anthony Bourdain), so expect to be eating with plenty of fellow tourists. It features two cozy dining rooms adorned with art (plus some outdoor seating in summer), but it’s the food that takes center stage here: fresh fish from the lagoon or the Adriatic, fruits and vegetables from local farms, and meat sourced from esteemed Franco Cazzamali Butchers. The pasta, desserts, and sauces are all homemade. Begin with Venetian saor, sweet and sour fish and shellfish, or fried zucchini flowers, followed by fresh monkfish with pancetta on a celeriac fondue, or deep-fried scampi, calamari, and baby sole. Diane’s desserts might include rustic pear and prune cake with grappa-cinnamon sauce or green apple sorbet with Calvados.
Campiello della Pescheria 3968. www.ristorantealcovo.com. 041-5223812. Reservations required. Main courses 27€-37€. Fri-Tues 12:45-3:30pm (kitchen closes 2pm) and 7:30pm-midnight (kitchen closes at 10pm); Closed usually in Jan and 10 days in Aug. Vaporetto: Piazza San Marco; walk along Riva degli Schiavoni toward Arsenale, and take the 3rd narrow street left (Calle della Pescaria) after Hotel Metropole.
Al Covo chef Cesare Benelli preparing Carmelli Veneziani, a dessert of caramelized fruits and nuts.
Alle Corone SEAFOOD/VENETIAN One of Venice’s finest restaurants, an elegant 19th-century dining room located inside the Hotel Ai Reali overlooking the canal. Start with a selection of classic Venetian cicchetti (25€) before moving on to grilled scallops with black truffle (19.50€) or main courses such as baked turbot with black olives, seared tuna with poppy seeds, or roast rack of lamb with thyme, potatoes, and artichokes. To finish, the rosemary panna cotta with apple and ginger jam is spectacular. Reservations recommended.
Campo della Fava 5527 (Hotel Ai Reali). www.hotelaireali.com. 041-2410253. Main courses 27€-30€. Daily noon-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm. Vaporetto: Rialto (walk east along Calle Larga Mazzini, turn left Merceria then right on Calle Stella until you reach the hotel).
Alle Testiere ITALIAN/VENETIAN This tiny restaurant (with only 9 tables, seating for around 22), is the connoisseur’s choice for fresh fish and seafood, with a menu that changes frequently and a shrewd selection of wines. Dinner is served at two seatings, where you choose from appetizers such as swordfish carpaccio, and clams that seem to have been literally plucked straight from the sea. The fresh fish filets with aromatic herbs are always an exceptional main choice, and the pastas—like smoked ravioli with prawns and curry—are all superb. Finish off with homemade peach pie or chestnut pudding. In peak season, plan to make reservations at least a month in advance, and note that you’ll have a less rushed experience in the second seating.
Calle del Mondo Novo 5801. www.osterialletestiere.it. 041-5227220. Main courses 27€; many types of fish sold by weight. Tues-Sat noon-3pm and 2 seatings at 7 and 9:30pm. Vaporetto: Rialto or San Marco. Look for Salizada San Lio (west of Campo Santa Maria Formosa), and from there ask for Calle del Mondo Novo.
Opening wine at Alle Testiere.
Al Vecio Canton ITALIAN/PIZZA Venice is not known for pizza, partly because fire codes restrict the use of traditional wood-burning ovens, but the big, fluffy-crusted pies here—made using natural mineral water—are the best in the city. They also do a mean T-bone steak, cooked tableside on a granite slab, accompanied by truffle or red pepper sauce. Pastas are pretty good, too—stick with seafood versions like cuttlefish, the seasonal moeche (soft-shell crabs), and schie, small shrimp from the lagoon. Wash it all down with the drinkable house wine, or for a change, tasty craft beers from Treviso-based 32 Via dei Birrai.
Castello 4738a (at the corner of Calle Ruga Giuffa). www.alveciocanton.it. 041-5287143. Main courses 14€-20€. Wed-Mon 11:30am-3pm and 6-10:30pm. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria (head down the road on the left side of Hotel Savoia e Jolanda to Campo San Provolo; take Salizada San Provolo on the north side of the campo, cross the 1st footbridge on your left, and the pizzeria is on the 1st corner on the left).
Alla Basilica VENETIAN Considering this restaurant is just around the corner from the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s, lunch here is a phenomenally good deal. Don’t expect romance—it’s a large, noisy, canteenlike place—but the simple, freshly prepared meals comprise a pasta course like creamy lasagna or spaghetti con ragu, a meat or fish main (think grilled pork chops or dentice al vapore con zucchini grigliate, steamed red snapper with grilled zucchini), and mixed vegetables for just 16€, with bread and bottled water. Add a liter of extremely drinkable house wine for just 10€. Basilica is a favorite of local workers, and English is rarely spoken, so you can practice your Italian skills here.
Calle degli Albanesi 4255, Castello. www.allabasilicavenezia.it. 041-5220524. Lunch set menu 16€. Tues-Sun noon-3pm. Vaporetto: San Marco (as you disembark, the entrance to Calle degli Albanesi is a short walk to the left).
Ai Artisti VENETIAN This unpretentious, family-owned osteria enoteca is one of the best dining experiences in Venice, with a menu that changes daily according to what’s available at the market (because the fish market is closed on Monday, no fish is served that day). Grab a table by the canal and feast on stuffed squid, pan-fried sardines and an amazing, buttery veal scallopini, or opt for one of the truly wonderful pastas. The tiramisu and chocolate torte are standouts for dessert. Something that’s likely to stay with you in addition to the food is the impeccable service, with wait staff happy to guide you through the menu, and offer brilliant suggestions for wine pairing. Reservations recommended—it’s a tiny place, with seating for just 20.
Fondamenta della Toletta 1169A. www.enotecaartisti.com. 041-5238944. Main courses 23€-32€. Mon-Sat noon-4pm and 7-10pm. Vaporetto: Accademia (walk around Accademia and turn right onto Calle Gambara to where it ends at Rio di San Trovaso, turn left onto Fondamenta Priuli; take the 1st bridge onto a road that soon leads into Fondamenta della Toletta).
Locanda Montin VENETIAN Montin was the famous ex-hang-out of Peggy Guggenheim in the 1950s, and was frequented by Jimmy Carter, Robert De Niro, and Brad Pitt, among many other celebrities, but is the food still any good? Well, yes. Grab a table in the wonderfully serene back garden (completely covered by an arching trellis), itself a good reason to visit, and sample Venetian classics such as sardines in soar (a local marinade of vinegar, wine, onion, and raisins), and an exquisite seppie in nero (cuttlefish cooked in its ink). For a main course, it’s hard to beat the crispy sea bass (branzino) or legendary monkfish, while the lemon sorbet with vodka is a perfect, tangy conclusion to any meal.
Fondamenta di Borgo 1147. www.locandamontin.com. 041-5227151. Main courses 22€-32€. Daily 12:30-2:30pm and 5pm-midnight. Vaporetto: Ca’Rezzonico (walk straight along Calle Lunga San Barnaba, then turn left along Fondamenta di Borgo).
Ai Cugnai VENETIAN The name of this small trattoria means “at the in-laws,” and in that spirit the kitchen knocks out solid, home-cooked Venetian food, beautifully prepared and very popular with locals and hungry gondoliers. The classics are done especially well: The spaghetti vongole here is crammed with sea-fresh mussels and clams, the caprese and baby octopus salad perfectly balanced appetizers, and the house red top value. Our favorite, though, is the sublime spaghetti with scallops, a slippery, salty delight. Just two small tables outside, so get here early if you want to eat alfresco.
Calle Nuova Sant’Agnese 857. 041-5289238. Main courses 12€-25€. Tues-Sun noon-3:30pm and 7-10pm. Vaporetto: Accademia (head east of bridge and Accademia in direction of Guggenheim Collection; restaurant will be on your right, off the straight street connecting the 2 museums).
Osteria Al Squero WINE BAR/VENETIAN Enticing osteria with perhaps the most beguiling view in Venice, right opposite the Squero di San Trovaso (p. 274). Sip coffee and nibble cicchetti (from around 1.50€), while observing the activity at the medieval gondola boatyard and workshop, on the other side of the Rio di San Trovaso. It’s essentially a place for a light lunch or aperitivi rather than a full meal, snacking on delights such as Carnia smoked sausage, baccalà crostini (cod), anchovies, blue cheese, tuna, and sardines in saor for a total of around 15-16€ per person. House wine from 1.50€.
Fondamenta Nani 943-944. http://osteriaalsquero.wordpress.com. 335-6007513. Cicchetti 1.50€ per piece. Tues-Sun 7am-8pm. Vaporetto: Zattere (walk west along the waterside to the Rio di San Trovaso and turn right up Fondamenta Nani).
San Trovaso ITALIAN/VENETIAN No-frills tavern perfect for a lunch or dinner of tasty Italian comfort food, with a daily 3-course menu turistico (21€) featuring classics such as spaghetti with pesto, spaghetti vongole and an utterly addictive gnocchi ai 4 formaggi (gnocchi with four cheeses). The seafood menu is huge, with salmone alla griglia (grilled salmon) and a delightful scaloppini (finely sliced scallops) with lemon sauce in addition to the usual Venetian line-up of scampi, monkfish, and sea bass. Tends to be touristy, of course, but a good value all the same.
Dorsoduro 1016 (on Fondamenta Priuli). www.tavernasantrovaso.it. 041-5230835. Reservations recommended. Main courses 14€-22€. Tues-Sun noon-2:45pm and 7-9:45pm. Vaporetto: Accademia (walk right around Accademia, then right onto Calle Gambara to where it ends at small Rio di San Trovaso, turn left onto Fondamenta Priuli).
Do Spade VENETIAN It’s tough to find something so authentic this close to the Rialto Bridge these days, but Do Spade has been around since 1415. Most locals come here for the cicchetti (you can sit on benches outside if it’s too crowded indoors), small plates such as fried calamari, meatballs, mozzarella, salted cod (1.50€-3€), and decent Italian wines (3€ a glass). The more formal menu is also worth a try, with seafood highlights including a delicately prepared monkfish, scallops served with fresh zucchini, and a rich seafood lasagna. The seasonal pumpkin ravioli is one of the best dishes in the city.
Sottoportego do Spade 860. www.cantinadospade.com. 041-5210574. Main courses 12€-24€. Daily 10am-3pm and 6-10pm. Vaporetto: Rialto Mercato (with your back to Grand Canal, walk straight up Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni and turn right on Ruga dei Spezieri; at the end turn left on Calle de le Beccarie O Panataria, and then take 2nd right onto covered Sottoportego do Spade).
Do Mori WINE BAR/VENETIAN Serving good wine and cicchetti since 1462 (check out the antique copper pots hanging from the ceiling), Do Mori is above all a fun place to have a genuine Venetian experience, a small, dimly lit bàcari that can barely accommodate ten people standing up. Sample the baby octopus and ham on mango, lard-smothered crostini, and pickled onions speared with salty anchovies, or opt for the tramezzini (tiny sandwiches). Local TV (and BBC) star Francesco Da Mosto is a regular, but note that this institution is very much on the well-trodden tourist trail—plenty of cicchetti tours stop by in the early evening. Local wine runs around 3€ to 4€ per glass.
Calle Do Mori 429 (also Calle Galeazza 401). 041-5225401. Tramezzini and cicchetti 1.80€-3€ per piece. Mon-Sat 8am-8pm (June-Aug closed daily 2-4:30pm). Vaporetto: Rialto Mercato (with your back to Grand Canal, walk straight up Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni and turn right on Calle Galeazza).
Osteria Alla Ciurma WINE BAR/VENETIAN With a dining room decked out like a traditional Venetian boat, this cicchetteria offers some of the freshest seafood snacks in the city—they source their fresh fish from the daily market just around the corner—washed down with quality wines, spritz, and prosecco. Mouth-watering cicchetti include cod fillets, fried zucchini flowers, fried artichokes, and shrimp wrapped in bacon. More substantial sandwiches (from 3.75€) and lunch specials (noon-3pm) from 5.50€ are also available.
Calle Galeazza 406. 340-6863561. Cicchetti 1.50€-2€ per piece. Mon-Sat 9am-3pm and 5:30-9pm; Sun 10:30am-3pm (May-Sep only). Vaporetto: Rialto Mercato (with your back to Grand Canal, walk straight up Ruga Vecchia San Giovanni and turn right on Calle Galeazza).
Al Bacco Felice ITALIAN This quaint, friendly restaurant is convenient for the train station and popular with locals, with a real buzz most evenings. Stick with the basics and you won’t be disappointed—the pizzas, pastas, and fish dishes are always outstanding, with classic standbys spaghetti alle vongole, pasta with spicy arrabbiata, and carpaccio of swordfish especially well done. The meal usually ends with complimentary plates of Venetian cookies, a nice touch.
Santa Croce 197E (on Corte dei Amai). 041-5287794. Main courses 16€-28€. Mon-Fri noon-3:30pm and 6:30-11pm, Sat and Sun noon-11:30pm. Vaporetto: Piazzale Roma (keep the Grand Canal on your left and head toward the train station; cross the small canal at the end of the park and immediately turn right onto Fondamenta Tolentini; when you get to Campo Tolentini turn left onto Corte dei Amai).
Bacareto Da Lele WINE BAR/VENETIAN This tiny hole-in-the-wall bacaro is worth seeking out for its fresh snacks, sandwiches, and cicchetti. Tiny glasses or ombras of wine and prosecco are just 0.60€-1.50€). There are no seats, so do as the locals do and grab a space on the nearby church steps, outside by the canal, while you sip and nibble. Opt for a tiny porchetta and mustard or the bacon and artichoke panini (around 2€), antipasti plates for 1.50€ (cheese and salami), or a simple, freshly baked crostini for 1€ to 1.60€. Expect long lines here in peak season; the secret is definitely out.
Campo dei Tolentini 183. No phone. Cicchetti 1.50€-2€ per piece. Mon-Fri 6am-8pm, Sat 6am-2pm. Vaporetto: Piazzale Roma (walk left along the Grand Canal, past the Ponte della Costituzione, into the Giardino Papadopoli; turn right on Fonadmenta Papadopoli then left. Cross the park at the 1st bridge; the next canal should be the Rio del Tolentini, with the campo across the bridge and Da Lele on the southwest corner).
L’Orto dei Mori VENETIAN Traditional Venetian cuisine cooked up here by a young Sicilian chef, so expect some subtle differences to the usual flavors and dishes. Everything on the relatively small menu is exceptional—the baccalà (salted cod) especially so—and the setting next to a small canal is enhanced by candlelight at night. This place can get very busy—the waiters are normally friendly, but be warned, expect brusque treatment if you turn up late or early for a reservation. Don’t be confused: The restaurant prefers to serve dinner, broadly, within two seatings, one early (7-9pm) and one late, so that’s why waiters will be reluctant to serve those that arrive early for the second sitting—even if there’s a table available, you’ll be given water and just told to wait.
Campo dei Mori 3386. www.osteriaortodeimori.com. 041-5243677. Main courses 19€-26€. Wed-Mon 12:30-3:30pm and 7pm-midnight, usually in 2 seatings (July-Aug closed for lunch Mon-Fri). Vaporetto: Madonna dell’Orto (walk through the campo to the canal and turn right; take the 1st bridge to your left, walk down the street and turn left at the canal onto Fondamenta dei Mori; go straight until you hit Campo dei Mori).
Ostaria Da Rioba SEAFOOD/VENETIAN Fresh, creative, and absolutely scrumptious Venetian food served right alongside a serene canal in a lively—but not touristy—area. Plenty of locals eat here, enticed by the beautifully executed seafood; monkfish, sea bass, scampi, turbot, mackerel, tuna, and lots of cod. Top choices include their lightly grilled scampi (massive prawns sliced down the middle), and their “spaghetti noir,” an interpretation of that Venetian classic, spaghetti with cuttlefish ink. But for a real treat order the grilled duck, a rich, sumptuous dish served with seasonal vegetables. Note that there are only 35 seats along the canal, so to watch that gorgeous summer sunset, reservations are a must.
Fondamenta della Misericordia 2553. www.darioba.com. 041-5244379. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses 22€-26€. Tues-Sun 11am-3pm and 6-10pm. Vaporetto: San Marcuola (walk behind the church at the stop, then go straight for 5 blocks to the 1st bridge; cross and turn right on Misericordia).
Taverna al Remer VENETIAN Eating on a budget in Venice doesn’t always mean panini and pizza. This romantic taverna overlooks the Grand Canal from a small, charming piazza, and while the a la carte options can be pricey, the secret is to time your visit for the buffets. The 20€ weekday lunch is a fabulous deal, with a choice of two fresh pastas plus a buffet of antipasto which includes vegetables, salads, cold cuts, a choice of two or three quality hot dishes (such as Venice-style liver with polenta, or pan-fried squid), a choice of two or three desserts, and coffee, water, and quarter liter of wine (per person). The evening aperitivo is an even better deal, from just 5€ for as much smoked meat, sausage, salads, seafood risotto and pasta as you can eat, plus one Aperol spritz, bellini, vino, or Prosecco. Normal service resumes after the buffet is cleared, with live music (Latin, soul, jazz) most nights at 8:30pm, but as long as you order a few drinks it’s fine to stick around and take in the scene.
Cannaregio 5701 (off Salizada S. Giovanni Grisostomo). www.alremer.it. 041-5228789. Lunch buffet 20€ weekdays only; aperitivo (5:30-7:30pm) from 5€. Mon, Tues, and Thurs-Sat noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-midnight; Sun 5:30pm-midnight. Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro or Rialto (heading south on Salizada S. Giovanni Grisostomo, look for a narrow passage on the right, just beyond the Ponte S. Giovanni footbridge).
Bacaromi ITALIAN/VENETIAN This hotel restaurant is well worth visiting Giudecca for, even if you’re not spending the night. It’s a faux rustic Venetian canteen where you can sample cicchetti, and a glass of local wine in the company of welcoming and incredibly helpful English-speaking staff led by the indomitable Giuseppe Russo. Combine that with the views across the canal and this is a pricy but pleasurable experience, especially for those new to Venice. Menus change regularly, but seafood dominates. If available, order the crab and squid ink risotto, mixed fried fish, roasted mackerel, or just a simple pasta with prawns, but don’t be afraid to create a meal from several cicchetti—these also change regularly, but the baccala (cod) mousse is a taste sensation.
Fondamenta San Biagio 810 (in the Hilton Molino Stucky). www.molinostuckyhilton.com. 041-2723311. Main courses 24€-30€. Daily 6-10:30pm. Vaporetto: Palanca, then walk 5 minutes along the canal (to the right) to the hotel.
Is the gelato any good in Venice? Italians might demur, but by international standards, the answer is most definitely yes. As always, though, remember that gelato parlors aimed exclusively at tourists are notorious for poor quality and extortionate prices, especially in Venice. Try to avoid places near Piazza San Marco altogether. Below are some of our favorite spots in the city. Each generally opens midmorning and closes late. Winter hours are more erratic.
Gelato Fantasy GELATO Since 1998, this tiny gelato shop has been doling out tasty scoops dangerously close to Piazza San Marco, but the quality remains high and portions generous. Fresh, strong flavors, with standouts including the pistachio, tiramisu, and dark chocolate.
Calle dei Fabbri 929, San Marco. www.gelatofantasy.com. 041-5225993. Cone from 2€. Vaporetto: Rialto or San Marco.
EATING ALFRESCO IN VENICE
You don’t have to eat in a fancy restaurant to enjoy good food in Venice. Prepare a picnic, and while you eat alfresco, you can observe the life in the city’s campi or the aquatic parade on its main thoroughfare, the Grand Canal.
Mercato Rialto Venice’s principal open-air market has two parts, beginning with the produce section, whose many stalls unfold north on the San Polo side of the Rialto Bridge. Vendors are here Monday to Saturday 7am to 1pm, with some staying on in the afternoon. Behind these stalls are a few permanent food stores that sell cheese, cold cuts, and bread. At the market’s farthest point, you’ll find the covered fish market, still redolent of the days when it was one of the Mediterranean’s great fish bazaars. The fish merchants take Monday off and work mornings only.
Campo Santa Margherita On this spacious campo in Dorsoduro, Tuesday through Saturday from 8:30am to 1pm, a number of open-air stalls set up shop, selling fresh fruit and vegetables. There’s also a conventional supermarket, Punto Simply, just off the campo in the direction of the quasi-adjacent campo San Barnaba, at no. 3019.
San Barnaba This is where you’ll find Venice’s heavily photographed floating market (mostly fruit and vegetables), operating from a boat moored just off San Barnaba at the Ponte dei Pugni in Dorsoduro. This market is open daily from 8am to 1pm and 3:30 to 7:30pm, except Wednesday afternoon and Sunday.
The Best Picnic Spots Given its aquatic roots, you won’t find much in the way of green space in Venice (if you are really desperate for green, you can walk 30 min. past San Marco along the water, or take a vaporetto to the Giardini Pubblici, Venice’s only green park, but don’t expect anything great). A much more enjoyable alternative is to find some of the larger campi that have park benches, such as Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio (in the quiet sestiere of Santa Croce). The two most central are Campo Santa Margherita (sestiere of Dorsoduro) and Campo San Polo (sestiere of San Polo).
The Punta della Dogana (Customs House) near La Salute Church, is a prime viewing site at the mouth of the Grand Canal. Pull up on a piece of the embankment here and watch the flutter of water activity against a backdrop deserving of the Accademia Museum. In this same area, another superb spot is the small Campo San Vio near the Guggenheim, which is directly on the Grand Canal (not many campi are) and even boasts two benches as well as the possibility to sit on an untrafficked small bridge.
To go a bit farther afield, you can take the vaporetto out to Burano and then no. 9 for the 5-minute ride to the near-deserted island of Torcello. If you bring a basketful of bread, cheese, and wine you can do your best to reenact the romantic scene between Katharine Hepburn and Rossano Brazzi from the 1955 film “Summertime.”
Il Doge GELATO A definite contender for best gelato in Venice, with a great location at the southern end of the Campo Santa Margherita since 1986. These guys use only natural, homemade flavors and ingredients, from their exceptional spicy chocolate to their specialty, “Crema de Doge,” a rich concoction of eggs, cream, and real oranges. Try a refreshing granita in summer.
Campo Santa Margherita 3058, Dorsoduro. 041-5234607. Cones and cups from 1.50€-5.50€. Vaporetto: Ca’Rezzonico.
La Mela Verde GELATO The popular rival to Il Doge for best scoop in the city, with sharp flavors and all the classics done sensationally well: pistachio, chocolate, nocciola (hazelnut), and the mind-blowing lemon and basil. The overall champions: mela verde (green apple), like creamy, frozen fruit served in a cup, and the addictive tiramisu flavor.
Fondamenta de L’Osmarin, Castello 4977. www.gelaterialamelaverde.it. 349-1957924. Cones or cups from 1.50€. Vaporetto: Zaccaria.
Nico GELATO Founded in 1935, this is one of the city’s more historic gelato counters, with a handful of chairs on the waterfront (these are only for “table service,” at extra charge). Quality is good (the mint, amaretto, and the signature gianduiotto, a chocolate and nut blend, are crazy good), but lines are always long in the afternoons and evenings, and service can be a little surly.
Fondamenta Zattere al Ponte Longo 922, Dorsoduro. www.gelaterianico.com. 041-5225293. Cone from 3€. Vaporetto: Zattere.
Venice is notorious for changing and extending the opening hours of its museums and, to a lesser degree, its churches. Before you begin your exploration of Venice’s sights, ask at the tourist office for the season’s list of museum and church hours. During the peak months, you can enjoy extended museum hours—some places stay open until 7 or even 10pm. Unfortunately, these hours are not released until approximately Easter of every year. Even then, little is done to publicize the information, so you’ll have to do your own research.
INDEX OF ATTRACTIONS & SITES
Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral) , p. 261
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) , p. 264
Gallerie dell’Accademia (Academy Gallery) , p. 270
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) , p. 267
Palazzo Ducale and Ponte dei Sospiri (Ducal Palace and Bridge of Sighs) , p. 265
Rialto Bridge , p. 268
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro , p. 276
Museo Ebraico di Venezia (Jewish Museum of Venice) , p. 276
Peggy Guggenheim Collection , p. 272
Punta della Dogana , p. 272
Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni , p. 269
Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Confraternity of St. Roch) , p. 275
I Gesuati (Santa Maria del Rosario) , p. 271
Il Redentore , p. 277
Museo Ebraico di Venezia (Jewish Museum of Venice) , p. 276
San Giorgio Maggiore , p. 278
San Sebastiano , p. 273
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) , p. 273
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Church of the Frari) , p. 275
Scuola Grande dei Carmini , p. 273
SS. Giovanni e Paolo , p. 269
Burano , p. 279
Il Ghetto (The Jewish Ghetto) , p. 276
The Lido , p. 280
Murano , p. 279
Squero di San Trovaso , p. 274
Torcello , p. 280
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) , p. 268
Basilica di San Marco (St. Mark’s Cathedral) CATHEDRAL One of the grandest, and certainly the most exotic of all cathedrals in Europe, Basilica di San Marco is a treasure-heap of Venetian art and all sorts of booty garnered from the eastern Mediterranean. Legend has it that St. Mark, on his way to Rome, was told by an angel his body would rest near the lagoon that would one today become Venice. Hundreds of years later, the city fathers were looking for a patron saint of high stature, more in keeping with their lofty aspirations, and in 828 the prophecy was fulfilled when Venetian merchants stole the body of St. Mark from Alexandria in Egypt (the story goes that the body was packed in pickled pork to avoid the attention of the Muslim guards). Today the high altar’s green marble canopy on alabaster columns is believed to cover the remains of St Mark and continues to be the focus of the basilica, at least for the faithful.
The façade and dome of the Basilica di San Marco.
Modeled on Constantinople’s Church of the Twelve Apostles, the original shrine of St. Mark was consecrated in 832, but in 976 the church burned down. The present incarnation was completed in 1094, then extended and embellished over the years it served as the personal church of the doge. San Marco looks more Byzantine cathedral than Roman Catholic church, with a cavernous interior gilded with Byzantine mosaics added over 7 centuries, covering every inch of both ceiling and pavement.
For a closer look at many of the most remarkable ceiling mosaics and a better view of the Oriental carpet-like patterns of the pavement mosaics, pay the admission to go upstairs to the Museo di San Marco (the entrance is in the atrium at the principal entrance); this was originally the women’s gallery, or matroneum, and includes access to the outdoor Loggia dei Cavalli. Here you can admire a panoramic view of the piazza below and replicas of the celebrated Triumphal Quadriga, four gilded bronze horses dating from the 2nd or 3rd century A.D.; the Roman originals were moved inside in the 1980s for preservation. (The word quadriga actually refers to a car or chariot pulled by four horses, though in this case there are only the horses.) The horses were transported to Venice from Constantinople in 1204, along with lots of other loot from the Fourth Crusade.
The basilica’s greatest treasure is the magnificent altarpiece known as the Pala d’Oro (Golden Altarpiece), a Gothic masterpiece encrusted with over 2,000 precious gems and 83 enameled panels. It was created in 10th-century Constantinople and embellished by Venetian and Byzantine artisans between the 12th and 14th centuries. Second to the Pala d’Oro in importance is the 10th-century “Madonna di Nicopeia,” a bejeweled icon also purloined from Constantinople and exhibited in its own chapel. Also worth a visit is the Tesoro (Treasury), a collection of crusaders’ plunder from Constantinople and other icons and relics amassed over the years. Much of the loot has been incorporated into the interior and exterior of the basilica in the form of marble, columns, capitals, and statuary.
Between April and October, church-affiliated volunteers lead free tours Monday to Saturday at 11am (most guides speak English). Groups gather in the atrium, where you’ll find posters with tour schedules.
Piazza San Marco. www.basilicasanmarco.it. 041-2708311. Basilica free; Museo di San Marco (includes Loggia dei Cavalli) 5€, Pala d’Oro 2.50€, Tesoro (Treasury) 3€. Basilica, Tesoro, and Pala d’Oro Mon-Sat 9:45am-5pm (Tesoro and Pala d’Oro close at 4pm Nov-Easter), Sun 2-5pm (Nov-Easter all close Sun at 4pm). Museo di San Marco daily 9:45am-4:45pm. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) ICON An elevator will whisk you to the top of this 97m (318-ft.) brown brick bell tower where you get an awe-inspiring view of St. Mark’s cupolas. With a gilded angel atop its spire, it is the highest structure in the city, offering a pigeon’s-eye panorama that includes the lagoon, neighboring islands, and the red rooftops and church domes and bell towers of Venice. Originally built in the 9th century, the bell tower was reconstructed in the 12th, 14th, and 16th centuries, when the pretty marble loggia at its base was added by Jacopo Sansovino. It collapsed in 1902, miraculously hurting no one except a cat. It was rebuilt exactly as before, using most of the same materials, even one of the five historical bells that it still uses today.
Piazza San Marco. www.basilicasanmarco.it. 041-2708311. 8€. Easter to June and Oct daily 9am-7pm; July-Sept daily 9am-9pm; Nov-Easter daily 9:30am-3:45pm. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Know Before You Go
The guards at St. Mark’s entrance are serious about forbidding entry to anyone in inappropriate attire—shorts, sleeveless shirts (and shirts too short to hide your bellybutton), and skirts above the knee. Note also that you cannot enter the basilica with luggage, and that photos and filming inside are forbidden. With masses of people descending on the cathedral every day, your best bet for avoiding the long lines is to come early in the morning. Although the basilica is open Sunday morning for anyone wishing to attend Mass, non-worshippers cannot enter merely to tour the site.
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) NATURAL ATTRACTION A leisurely cruise along the “Canalazzo” from Piazza San Marco to the Ferrovia (train station), or the reverse, is one of Venice’s (and life’s) must-do experiences (see box, p. 229). Hop on the no. 1 vaporetto in the late afternoon (try to get a coveted outdoor seats in the prow), when the weather-worn colors of the former homes of Venice’s merchant elite are warmed by the soft light and reflected in the canal’s rippling waters, and the busy traffic of delivery boats, vaporetti, and gondolas that fills the city’s main thoroughfare has eased somewhat.
Best stations to start/end a tour of the Grand Canal are Ferrovia (train station) or Piazzale Roma on the NW side of the canal and Piazza San Marco in the southeast. Tickets 8€.
Palazzo Ducale and Ponte dei Sospiri (Ducal Palace and Bridge of Sighs) PALACE The pink-and-white marble Gothic-Renaissance Palazzo Ducale, residence of the doges who ruled Venice for more than 1,000 years, stands between the Basilica di San Marco and the sea. A symbol of prosperity and power, the original was destroyed by a succession of fires, with the current building started in 1340, extended in the 1420s, and redesigned again after a fire in 1483. If you want to understand something of this magnificent place, the fascinating history of the 1,000-year-old maritime republic, and the intrigue of the government that ruled it, take the Secret Itinerariestour (see “Secrets of the Palazzo Ducale,” p. 267). Failing that, at least download the free iPhone/Android app (see the website) or shell out for the audioguide tour (available at entrance, 6€) to help make sense of it all. Unless you can tag along with an English-speaking tour group, you may otherwise miss out on the importance of much of what you’re seeing.
The Bridge of Sighs.
The 15th-century Porta della Carta (Paper Gate) opens onto a splendid inner courtyard with a double row of Renaissance arches (today visitors enter through a doorway on the lagoon side of the palace). The self-guided route through the palace begins on the main courtyard, where the Museo dell’Opera contains assorted bits of masonry preserved from the Palazzo’s exterior. Beyond here, the first major room you’ll come to is the spacious Sala delle Quattro Porte (Hall of the Four Doors), with a worn ceiling by Tintoretto. The Sala dell’Anticollegio is where foreign ambassadors waited to be received by the doge and his council. It is covered in four works by Tintoretto, and Veronese’s “Rape of Europa” , considered one of the palazzo’s finest. It steals some of the thunder of Tintoretto’s “Mercury & the Three Graces” and “Bacchus and Ariadne” —the latter considered one of his best by some critics. The highlight of the adjacent Sala del Collegio (the Council Chamber itself) is the spectacular cycle of ceiling paintings by Veronese, completed between 1575 and 1578 and one of his masterpieces. Next door lies the most impressive of the interior rooms, the richly adorned Sala del Senato (Senate Chamber), with Tintoretto’s ceiling painting “The Triumph of Venice.” After passing again through the Sala delle Quattro Porte, you’ll come to the Veronese-decorated Stanza del Consiglio dei Dieci (Room of the Council of Ten, the Republic’s dreaded security police), of particular historical interest. It was in this room that justice was dispensed and decapitations ordered. Formed in the 14th century to deal with emergency situations, the Ten were considered more powerful than the Senate and feared by all. In the Sala della Bussola (the Compass Chamber), notice the Bocca dei Leoni (Lion’s Mouth), a slit in the wall into which secret denunciations and accusations of enemies of the state were placed for quick action by the much-feared Council.
AN INSIDER’S LOOK AT THE PALAZZO DUCALE
The Itinerari Segreti (Secret Itineraries) guided tours of the Palazzo Ducale are a must-see for any visit to Venice of more than 1 day. The tours offer an unparalleled look into the world of Venetian politics over the centuries and are the only way to access the otherwise restricted quarters and hidden passageways of this enormous palace, such as the doges’ private chambers and the torture chambers where prisoners were interrogated. The tour must be reserved in advance online (www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it), by phone (toll-free within Italy 848-082-000, or from abroad 041-4273-0892), or in person at the ticket desk. Tours often sell out at least a few days ahead, especially from spring through fall. Tours in English are daily at 9:55am, 10:45am and 11:35am, and cost 20€ for adults, 14.50€ for children ages 6 to 14 and students ages 15 to 25. There are also tours in Italian at 9:30am and 11:10am, and French at 10:20am and noon. The tour lasts about 75 minutes.
The main sight on the next level down—indeed, in the entire palace—is the Sala del Maggior Consiglio (Great Council Hall). This enormous space is animated by Tintoretto’s huge “Paradiso” at the far end of the hall above the doge’s seat. Measuring 7×23m (23×75 ft.), it is said to be the world’s largest oil painting; together with Veronese’s gorgeous “Il Trionfo di Venezia” (“The Triumph of Venice”) in the oval panel on the ceiling, it affirms the power emanating from the council sessions held here. Tintoretto also did the portraits of the 76 doges encircling the top of this chamber; note that the picture of the Doge Marin Falier, who was convicted of treason and beheaded in 1355, has been blacked out—Venice has never forgiven him. Tours culminate at the enclosed Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs), built in 1600, which connects the Ducal Palace with the grim Palazzo delle Prigioni (Prison). The bridge took its current name in the 19th century, when visiting northern European poets romantically imagined the prisoners’ final breath of resignation upon viewing the outside world one last time. Some attribute the name to Casanova, who, following his arrest in 1755 (he was accused of being a Freemason and spreading antireligious propaganda), crossed this very bridge. One of the rare few to escape, he did so 15 months after his imprisonment began; it was 20 years before he dared return to Venice. Some of the cells still have the original graffiti of past prisoners, many of them locked up interminably for petty crimes.
San Marco, Piazza San Marco. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. 041-2715911. Admission only with San Marco Museum Pass (19€; see “Venice Discounts,” p. 271). For an Itinerari Segreti (Secret Itineraries) guided tour in English, see “Secrets of the Palazzo Ducale,” p. 267. Daily 8:30am-7pm (Nov-Mar until 5:30pm). Vaporetto: San Marco.
Piazza San Marco SQUARE Dubbed “The finest drawing-room in Europe” by Napoleon, the San Marco Square is undeniably one of Italy’s most beautiful spaces, despite being terribly congested in high season (and often flooded during acqua alta). Today, the square is focal point for Carnevale, as well as the spectacular Basilica and the most historic cafes in Venice: venerable Caffè Florian, Wagner’s Caffè Lavena, and Gran Caffè Quadri (all on p. 287).
Vaporetto: San Marco.
Venice hosts the latest in contemporary art and sculpture from dozens of countries during the prestigious Biennale d’Arte (www.labiennale.org; 041-5218711), one of the world’s top international art shows. It fills the pavilions of the Giardini (public gardens) at the east end of Castello and at the Arsenale, as well as in other spaces around the city from May to November every odd-numbered year (usually open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm). Tickets cost around 25€, 20€ for those 65 and over, and 15€ for students and all those 26 and under.
Rialto Bridge ICON This graceful arch over the Grand Canal, linking the San Marco and San Polo districts, is lined with overpriced boutiques and is teeming with tourists and overflow from the daily market on the San Polo side. Until the 19th century, it was the only bridge across the Grand Canal, originally built as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point. Wooden versions of the bridge followed; the 1444 incarnation was the first to include shops, interrupted by a drawbridge in the center. In 1592, this graceful stone span was finished to the designs of Antonio da Ponte (whose last name fittingly enough means bridge), who beat out Sansovino, Palladio, and Michelangelo with his plans that called for a single, vast, 28m-wide (92-ft.) arch in the center to allow trading ships to pass.
Ponte del Rialto. Vaporetto: Rialto.
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower) MONUMENT As you enter the magnificent Piazza San Marco, it is one of the first things you see, standing on the north side, the centerpiece of the stately white Procuratie Vecchie (the ancient administration buildings for the Republic). The Renaissance Torre dell’Orologio was built between 1496 and 1506, and the clock still keeps perfect time (although most of its original workings have been replaced). On top, two bronze figures, known as “Moors” because of the dark color of the bronze, pivot to strike the hour. Visits are by guided tour (included in the price of admission).
Piazza San Marco. www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it. 848-082000 or 041-42730892. 12€, 7€ for children ages 6-14 and students ages 15-25; ticket also good for the Museo Correr, the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana (but not Palazzo Ducale). Tours in English Mon-Wed 10am and 11am, Thurs-Sun 2pm and 3pm (must be reserved in advance); tours start at the Museo Correr ticket office. There are also tours in Italian and French. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Though the highlight of this neighborhood is the huge Santi Giovanni e Paolo, within a few minutes’ walk from here are two more magnificent Renaissance churches, Santa Maria Formosa (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; 3€) on Campo Santa Maria Formosa, and San Zaccaria (Mon-Sat 10am-noon and 4-6pm, Sun 4-6pm; free) at Campo San Zaccaria, which contains Giovanni Bellini’s San Zaccaria Altarpiece , and early work from Tintoretto.
Basilica SS. Giovanni e Paolo CHURCH This massive Gothic church was built by the Dominican order from the 13th to the 15th century and, together with the Frari Church in San Polo, is second in size only to the Basilica di San Marco. An unofficial Pantheon where 25 doges are buried (a number of tombs are part of the unfinished facade), the church, commonly known as Zanipolo in Venetian dialect, is also home to many artistic treasures.
The brilliantly colored “Polyptych of St. Vincent Ferrer” (ca. 1465), attributed to a young Giovanni Bellini, is in the right aisle. You’ll also see the mummified foot of St. Catherine of Siena—considered a holy relic—encased in glass near here. Visit the Cappella del Rosario , through a glass door off the left transept, to see three restored ceiling canvases and one oil painting by Paolo Veronese, particularly “The Assumption of the Madonna.”
Anchoring the large and impressive campo outside the church, a popular crossroads for this area of Castello, is the statue of Bartolomeo Colleoni , the Renaissance condottiere (mercenary) who defended Venice’s interests at the height of its power until his death in 1475. The 15th-century sculpture is by the Florentine Andrea Verrocchio; it is considered one of the world’s great equestrian monuments and Verrocchio’s best.
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo 6363. www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. 041-5235913. 3.50€. Daily 7:30am-6:30pm (Oct-Jun until 7pm). Vaporetto: Rialto.
Back to Scuola
Founded in the Middle Ages, the Venetian scuole (schools) were guilds that brought together merchants and craftspeople from certain trades (for example, the dyers of Scuola dei Carmini), as well as those who shared similar religious devotions (Scuola Grande di San Rocco). The guilds were social clubs, credit unions, and sources of spiritual guidance. Many commissioned elaborate headquarters and hired the best artists of the day to decorate them. The scuole that remain in Venice today house some of the city’s finest art treasures.
Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni MUSEUM One of the most mesmerizing spaces in Europe, the tiny main hall of this scuola once served as a meeting house for Venice’s Dalmatian community (schiavoni means “Slavs”). Venetian scuole or schools were guilds that brought together merchants and craftspeople from certain trades or similar religious devotions. Built by the side of its sister church, San Giovanni di Malta, in the early 16th century, the main reason to visit this one is to admire the awe-inspiring narrative painting cycle on its walls, created by Renaissance master Vittore Carpaccio between 1502 and 1509. The paintings depict the lives of the Dalmatian patron saints George (of dragon-slaying fame), Tryphon, and Jerome, while in the upper hall (Sala dell’Albergo), there’s Carpaccio’s masterful “Vision of St. Augustine.”
Calle dei Furlani 3259A. 041-5228828. 5€. Mon 2:45-6pm, Tues-Sat 9:15am-1pm and 2:45-6pm, Sun 9:15am-1pm. Vaporetto: Rialto.
Gallerie dell’Accademia (Academy Gallery) MUSEUM Along with San Marco and the Palazzo Ducale, the Accademia is one of the highlights of Venice, a magnificent collection of European art and especially Venetian painting from the 14th to the 18th centuries. Visitors are currently limited to 300 at one time, so lines can be long in high season—advance reservations are essential. There’s a lot to take in here, so buy a catalog in the store if you’d like to learn more—the audioguides are a little muddled and not worth 6€. Note also that Da Vinci’s iconic Vitruvian Man , one of the museum’s prize holdings, is an extremely fragile ink drawing and rarely displayed in public.
Rooms are laid out in rough chronological order, though on-and-off again renovations and closures mean some rooms may be off limits when you visit, and the website is not updated regularly. The museum unveiled 30 new galleries at the end of 2013 (doubling exhibit space), but the main rooms on the first floor remain in a parlous state. The following art works should be on display somewhere in the museum, though locations may change.
Room 2 normally includes Carpaccio’s grim “Crucifixion & Glorification of the Ten Thousand Martyrs of Mount Ararat” and his much lighter “Presentation of Jesus in the Temple,” but the real showstoppers of the collection reside in rooms 4 and 5, with a gorgeous “St. George” by Mantegna and a series of Giovanni Bellini Madonnas. Pride of place goes to Giorgione’s enigmatic and utterly mystifying “Tempest” .
Rooms 6 to 8 feature Venetian heavyweights Tintoretto, Titian, and Lorenzo Lotto, while Room 10 is dominated by Paolo Veronese’s mammoth “Feast in the House of Levi” . Tintoretto canvases make up the rest of the room, including his three legends of St. Mark. Opposite is Titian’s last painting, a “Pietà” intended for his own tomb. Room 11 contains work by Tiepolo, the master of 18th-century Venetian painting, but also Tintoretto’s “Madonna dei Tesorieri.” Canaletto’s “Capriccio: A Colonnade” (Room 17), which he presented to the Academy when he was made a member in 1763, merits a closer look for its elegant contrast between diagonal, vertical, and horizontal lines.
Room 20 is filled by Gentile Bellini’s cycle of “The Miracles of the Relic of the Cross” , painted around 1500. The next room contains the monumental cycle of pictures by Carpaccio illustrating the Story of St. Ursula . Finally, in room 24, there’s Titian’s “Presentation of the Virgin,” actually created to hang in this space along with a triptych by Antonio Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna.
Campo della Carità 1050, at foot of Ponte dell’Accademia. www.gallerieaccademia.org. 041-5200345. 9€-15€ adults, depending on special exhibitions (includes Palazzo Grimani); free on first Sunday of the month (check in advance). Reservations by phone or online incur a 1.50€ charge. Daily 8:15am-7:15pm (Mon until 2pm). Vaporetto: Accademia.
Venice offers a somewhat bewildering range of passes and discount cards. We recommend buying an ACTV travel card (p. 222) and combining that with one of the first two passes listed below. The more complex Venezia Unica card scheme is convenient once you’ve worked out what you want online, but doesn’t save you much money and its main components are only valid for 7 days. The Venezia Unica website (www.veneziaunica.it) is now also a one-stop shop for all the passes listed below.
The Museum Pass (www.vivaticket.it) grants admission to all the city-run museums over a 6-month period—it also lets you skip any ticketing lines, which is a useful perk in high season. The pass includes the museums of St. Mark’s Square—Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, and the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana—as well as the Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo (Costume Museum), the Ca’ Rezzonico, the Ca’ Pesaro, the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) on Murano, and the Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) on Burano. The Museum Pass is available online or at any of the participating museums and costs 25€ for adults, and 19€ for students under 30 and kids ages 6 to 14. The Chorus Pass (www.chorusvenezia.org) covers every major church in Venice, 16 in all, for 12€ (8€ for students under 30), for up to 1 year. For 24€, the Chorus Pass Family gives you the same perks for two adults and their children up to 18 years old.
The Venezia Unica card (www.veneziaunica.it), combines the above passes, transport, discounts, and even Internet access on one card via a “made-to-order” online system, where you choose the services you want. The most useful option is the All Venice City Pass, which combines the Museum Pass and Chorus Pass plus free entry to the Jewish Museum and discounts on temporary exhibits for 40€ for 7 days (30€ for ages 6-29). You can also buy various transportation packages and Wi-Fi access (from 5€ for 24hr.). Once you’ve paid, you’ll be able to simply print out a voucher to use at museums and sights in Venice; to use public transport you must collect tickets by entering your booking code at one of the ACTV automatic ticket machines or by visiting one of the official Points of Sale in in the city (there’s one in the train station open 7am to 9pm, as well as at the Rialto vaporetto stop open 7am to 11pm).
Also, for visitors between the ages of 6 and 29, there is the Rolling Venice card (also available at www.veneziaunica.it). It’s valid until the end of the year in which you buy it, costs just 6€, and entitles the bearer to significant (20%-30%) discounts at participating restaurants (but only applies to cardholder’s meal), and a similar discount on ACTV travel cards (22€ for 3 days). Holders of the Rolling Venice card also get discounts in museums, stores, language courses, hotels, and bars across the city (it comes with a thick booklet listing everywhere that you’re entitled to get discounts).
I Gesuati (Santa Maria del Rosario) CHURCH Built from 1724 to 1743 by Giorgio Massari to mirror the Redentore across the Canale della Giudecca, this cavernous church counters the latter’s Palladian sobriety with rococo flair. The interior is graced by airy 1738-39 ceiling frescoes (some of the first in Venice) by Giambattista Tiepolo. Tiepolo also created the “Virgin with saints Rosa of Lima, Catherine of Siena, and Agnes of Montepulciano” on the first altar on the right. The third altar on the left is adorned with a Tintoretto “Crucifixion” (1565).
Fondamenta delle Zattere ai Gesuati. 041-2750462. 3€ adults, free for children 5 and under. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Vaporetto: Zattere.
Peggy Guggenheim Collection MUSEUM Though the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is one of the best museums in Italy when it comes to American and European art of the 20th century, you might find the experience a little jarring given its location in a city so heavily associated with the High Renaissance and the baroque. Nevertheless, art aficionados will find some fascinating work here, and the galleries occupy Peggy Guggenheim’s wonderful former home, the 18th-century Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, right on the Grand Canal. Guggenheim purchased the mansion in 1949 and lived here, on and off, until her death in 1979. Highlights include Picasso’s extremely abstract “Poet,” and his more gentle “On the Beach,” several works by Kandinsky (“Landscape with Red Spots No. 2” and “White Cross”), Miró’s expressionistic “Seated Woman II,” Klee’s mystical “Magic Garden,” and some unsettling works by Max Ernst (“The Kiss,” “Attirement of the Bride”), who was briefly married to Guggenheim in the 1940s. Look out also for Magritte’s “Empire of Light,” Dalí’s typically surreal “Birth of Liquid Desires,” and a couple of gems from Pollock: his early “Moon Woman,” which recalls Picasso, and “Alchemy,” a more typical “poured” painting. The Italian Futurists are also well represented here, with a rare portrait from Modigliani (“Portrait of the Painter Frank Haviland”).
Calle San Cristoforo 701. www.guggenheim-venice.it. 041-2405411. 15€ adults; 13€ 65 and over, and for those who present an Alitalia ticket to or from Venice dated no more than 7 days previous; 9€ students 26 and under and children ages 10-18. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. Vaporetto: Accademia (walk around left side of Accademia, take 1st left, and walk straight ahead following the signs).
A sculpture from the Peggy Guggenheim Collection.
Punta della Dogana MUSEUM The eastern tip (punta) of Dorsoduro is crowned by the distinctive triangle of the 17th-century Dogana di Mare (Customs House) that once monitored all boats entering the Grand Canal. Transformed by architect Tadao Ando into a beautiful exhibition space, it’s now a showcase for the contemporary art collection of French multi-millionaire François Pinault (officially dubbed the Centro d’Arte Contemporanea Punta della Dogana). It’s pricey, but you can expect to see quality work from Cindy Sherman, Cy Twombly, Jeff Koons, and Marlene Dumas, among many others.
Fondamenta della Dogana alla Salute 2. www.palazzograssi.it. 041-2719031. 15€ adults, 20€ with Palazzo Grassi. Wed-Mon 10am-7pm (sometimes closes between shows, check ahead). Vaporetto: Salute.
San Sebastiano CHURCH Lose the crowds as you make a pilgrimage to this monument to Paolo Veronese, his parish church and home to some of his finest work. Veronese painted the ceiling of the sacristy with the “Coronation of the Virgin” and the “Four Evangelists,” while he graced the nave ceiling with “Scenes from the Life of St. Esther.” He also decorated the organ shutters and panels around the high altar in the 1560s, with scenes from the life of St. Sebastian. Although Veronese is the main event here, don’t miss Titian’s sensitive “St. Nicholas” (left wall of the first chapel on the right).
Campo San Sebastiano. 041-2750462. 3€. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun-2-5:30pm. Vaporetto: San Basilio.
Santa Maria della Salute (Church of the Virgin Mary of Good Health) CHURCH Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly reigns at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly across from the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon.
The first stone was laid in 1631 after the Senate decided to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from a plague that had killed around 95,000 people. They accepted the revolutionary plans of a young, relatively unknown architect, Baldassare Longhena. He dedicated the next 50 years of his life to overseeing its progress (he would die one year after its inauguration but 5 years before its completion). Today the dome of the church is an iconic presence on the Venice skyline, recognized for its exuberant exterior of volutes, scrolls, and more than 125 statues. The most revered image inside is the Madonna della Salute, a rare black-faced sculpture of Mary brought back from Candia in Crete in 1670 as war booty. The otherwise sober interior is enlivened by the sacristy, with a number of important ceiling paintings and portraits by Titian. On the right wall of the sacristy, which you have to pay to enter, is Tintoretto’s “Marriage at Cana” , often considered one of his best paintings.
Campo della Salute. 041-5225558. Church free; sacristy 3€. Daily 9am-noon and 3-5:30pm. Vaporetto: Salute.
Scuola Grande dei Carmini CHURCH The former Venetian base of the Carmelites, finished in the 18th century, is now a shrine of sorts to Giambattista Tiepolo, who painted the ceiling of the upstairs hall between 1739 and 1744. It’s truly a magnificent sight. Tiepolo’s elaborate rococo interpretation of “Simon Stock Receiving the Scapular” is now fully restored along with various panels throughout the building.
Campo San Margherita 2617. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. 041-5289420. 5€. Daily 11am-5pm (Nov-Mar until 4pm). Vaporetto: San Basilio.
Squero di San Trovaso HISTORIC SITE One of the most intriguing sights in Venice is this small squero (boatyard), which first opened in the 17th century. Just north of the Zattere (the wide, sunny walkway that runs alongside the Giudecca Canal in Dorsoduro), the boatyard lies next to the Church of San Trovaso on the narrow Rio San Trovaso (not far from the Accademia Bridge). It is surrounded by Tyrolean-looking wooden structures (a true rarity in this city of stone built on water) that are home to the multigenerational owners and original workshops for traditional Venetian boats (see “The Art of the Gondola,” below). Aware that they have become a tourist site themselves, the gondoliers don’t mind if you watch them at work from across the narrow Rio di San Trovaso, but don’t try to invite yourself in. Tip: It’s the perfect midway photo op after a visit to the Accademia and a trip to Gelateria Nico (Zattere 922), whose chocolate gianduiotto is every bit as decadent as Venice just before the fall of the Republic.
Dorsoduro 1097 (on the Rio San Trovaso, southwest of the Accademia). Vaporetto: Zattere.
THE ART OF THE GONDOLA
Putting together one of these sleek black boats is a fascinatingly exact science that is still done in the revered traditional manner at boatyards such as the Squero di San Trovaso (see above). Gondolas have been painted black since a 16th-century sumptuary law—one of many passed by the local legislators as excess and extravagance spiraled out of control. Whether regarding boats or baubles, laws were passed to restrict the gaudy outlandishness so prevalent at the time.
Propelled by the strength of a single gondoliere, these boats, unique to Venice, have no modern equipment. They move with no great speed but with unrivaled grace. The right side of the gondola is lower because the gondoliere always stands in the back of the boat on the left. Although the San Trovaso squero, or boatyard, is the city’s oldest and one of only three remaining (the other two are immeasurably more difficult to find), its predominant focus is on maintenance and repair. They will occasionally build a new gondola (which takes some 40-45 working days), carefully crafting it from the seven types of wood—mahogany, cherry, fir, walnut, oak, elm, and lime—necessary to give the shallow and asymmetrical boat its various characteristics. After all the pieces are put together, the painting, the ferro (the iron symbol of the city affixed to the bow), and the woodcarving that secures the oar are commissioned out to various local artisans.
Although some 10,000 of these elegant boats floated on the canals of Venice in the 16th century, today there are around 425, almost all catering to the tourist trade. The job of gondoliere remains a coveted profession, passed down from father to son over the centuries, but nowadays it’s open to anyone that can pass 400 hours of rigorous training—Giorgia Boscolo passed the exam in 2010, becoming the first ever gondolier; her father was also in the profession.
San Polo & Santa Croce
Basilica Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (Church of the Frari) CHURCH Known simply as “i Frari,” this immense 14th-century Gothic basilica was built by the Franciscans and is the largest church in Venice after San Marco. It houses a number of important art works, including two Titian masterpieces: the “Assumption of the Virgin” over the main altar, painted when the artist was only in his late 20s, and his “Virgin of the Pesaro Family” in the left nave. For the latter work, Titian’s wife posed for the figure of Mary (and then died soon afterward in childbirth). Don’t miss Giovanni Bellini’s “Madonna & Child” over the altar in the sacristy, of which novelist Henry James wrote, “it is as solemn as it is gorgeous.” The grand mausoleum of Titian is on the right as you enter the church, opposite the incongruous 18th-century monument to sculptor Antonio Canova, shaped like a pyramid—designed by Canova himself, this was originally supposed to be Titian’s tomb.
Campo dei Frari 3072. www.basilicadeifrari.it. 041-2728611. 3€, audioguide 2€. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm; Sun 1-6pm. Vaporetto: San Tomà (walk straight ahead on Calle del Traghetto and turn right and immediately left across Campo San Tomà; walk straight on Ramo Mandoler then Calle Larga Prima, and turn right when you reach Salizada San Rocco).
Scuola Grande di San Rocco (Confraternity of St. Roch) MUSEUM Like many medieval saints, French-born St. Rocco (St. Roch) died young, but thanks to his work healing the sick in the 14th century, his cult became associated with the power to cure the plague and other serious illnesses. When his body was brought to Venice in 1485, this scuola began to reap the benefits, and by 1560 the current complex was completed. Work soon began on more than 50 paintings by Tintoretto, and today the scuola is primarily a shrine to the masterful Venetian artist. You enter at the Ground Floor Hall (Sala Terrena), where the paintings were created between 1583 and 1587, led by one of the most frenzied “Annunciations” ever made. The “Flight into Egypt” here is undeniably one of Tintoretto’s greatest works. Upstairs is the Great Upper Hall (Sala Superiore), where Old Testament scenes such as “Moses Striking Water From the Rock” cover the ceiling. The paintings around the walls, based on the New Testament, are generally regarded as a master class of perspective, shadow, and color. In the Sala dell’Albergo, an entire wall is adorned by Tintoretto’s mind-blowing “Crucifixion” (as well as his “Glorification of St. Roch,” on the ceiling, the painting that actually won him the contract to paint the scuola). Way up in the loft, the Tesoro (Treasury) is a tiny space dedicated primarily to gold reliquaries containing venerated relics such as the fingers of St. Peter and St. Andrew, and one of the thorns that crowned Christ during the cruxifixion.
Campo San Rocco 3052, adjacent to Campo dei Frari. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. 041-5234864. 10€ adults (includes audioguide); 8€ ages 18-26; 18 and under free. Daily 9:30am-5:30pm. Vaporetto: San Tomà (walk straight ahead on Calle del Traghetto and turn right and immediately left across Campo San Tomà; walk straight on Ramo Mandoler, Calle Larga Prima, and Salizada San Rocco, which leads into the campo of the same name—look for crimson sign behind Frari Church).
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca’ d’Oro MUSEUM This magnificent palazzo overlooking the Grand Canal, the “golden house,” was built between 1428 and 1430 for the noble Contarini family. Baron Giorgio Franchetti bought the place in 1894, and it now serves as an atmospheric art gallery for his exceptional collection. The highlight is “St. Sebastian” by Paduan artist Andrea Mantegna, displayed in its own marble chapel built by the overawed baron. The so-called “St. Sebastian of Venice” was the third and final painting of the saint by Mantegna, created around 1490 and quite different to the other two (in Vienna and Paris, respectively); it’s a bold, deeply pessimistic work, with none of Mantegna’s usual background details to detract from the saint’s suffering.
Strada Nuova 3932. www.cadoro.org. 041-520-0345. 6€, plus 1.50€ reservation fee (price increases during special exhibitions). Mon 8:15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8:15am-7:15pm. Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro.
Il Ghetto & the Jews of Venice
Jews began settling in Venice in great numbers in the 15th century, and the Republic soon came to value their services as moneylenders, physicians, and traders. In 1516, however, fearing their growing influence, the Venetians forced the Jewish population to live on an island where there was an abandoned foundry (ghetto is old Venetian dialect for “foundry”), and drawbridges were raised to enforce a nighttime curfew. By the end of the 17th century, as many as 5,000 Jews lived in the Ghetto’s cramped confines. Napoleon tore down the Ghetto gates in 1797, but it wasn’t until the unification of Italy in 1866 that Jews achieved equal status. Il Ghetto remains the spiritual center for Venice’s ever-diminishing community of Jewish families, with two synagogues and a Chabad House; although accounts vary widely, it’s said that anywhere from 500 to 2,000 Jews live in all of Venice and Mestre, though very few now live in the Ghetto.
Aside from its historic interest, this is also one of the less touristy neighborhoods in Venice (although it has become something of a nightspot) and makes for a pleasant and scenic place to stroll. Venice’s first kosher restaurant, Gam Gam, opened here in 1996, at 1122 Ghetto Vecchio right on the canal (www.gamgamkosher.com; 366-2504505), close to the Guglie vaporetto stop. Run by Orthodox Jews, it is open Sunday to Thursday noon to 10pm, noon to 2 hours before Shabbat (sunset) on Fri evening, and on Saturday from 1 hour after Shabbat, until 11pm (excluding summer).
Museo Ebraico di Venezia (Jewish Museum of Venice) MUSEUM/SYNAGOGUE In the heart of the Ghetto Nuovo, the Jewish Museum contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice, beginning with an exhibition on Jewish festivities in the first room; chandeliers, goblets, and spice-holders used to celebrate Shabbat, Shofàrs (ram’s horns) and a Séfer Torà (Scroll of Divine Law). The second room contains a rich collection of historic textiles, including Torah covers, and a rare marriage contract from 1792. A newer area explores the immigration patterns of Jews to Venice, and their experiences once here. For many, the real highlight is the chance to tour three of the area’s five historic synagogues (ladies must have shoulders covered and men must have heads covered; no photos): German (Scuola Grande Tedesca), founded in 1528; Italian (Scuola Italiana), founded in 1575; Sephardic (Scuola Levantina), founded in 1541 but rebuilt in the second half of 17th century; Spanish (Scuola Spagnola), rebuilt in the first half of 17th century; and the baroque-style Ashkenazi (Scuola Canton), largely rebuilt in the 18th century. It’s difficult to predict which three you’ll visit on any given day, as it depends on which synagogues are being used; the Levantina and the Spanish are the most lavishly decorated, with one usually included on the tour.
Cannaregio 2902B (on Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). www.museoebraico.it. 041-715359. Museum 4€ adults, 3€ children; museum and synagogue tour 10€ adults, 8€ children. Museum Sun-Fri 10am-7pm (Oct-May until 5:30pm); synagogue guided tours in English hourly 10:30am-5:30pm (Oct-May last tour 4:30pm). Closed on Jewish holidays. Vaporetto: Guglie.
Santa Maria dei Miracoli CHURCH Hidden in a quiet corner of the residential section of Cannaregio northeast of the Rialto Bridge, the small and exceedingly attractive 15th-century Miracoli has one side of its precious polychrome-marbled facade running alongside a canal, creating colorful and shimmering reflections. It was built 1481 to 1489 by Pietro Lombardo, a local artisan whose background in monuments and tombs is obvious, and would go on to become one of the founding fathers of the Venetian Renaissance.
The less romantic are inclined to compare it to a large tomb with a dome, but the untold couples who have made this jewel-like church their choice for weddings will dispel such insensitivity. The small square in front is the perfect place for gondolas to drop off and pick up the newly betrothed. The inside is decorated with early Renaissance marble reliefs, its pastel palette of pink, gray, and white marble making an elegant venue for all those weddings. The church was constructed for a venerated image of the Virgin Mary, credited with working miracles—including bringing back to life someone who spent half an hour at the bottom of the Giudecca Canal. The icon is now displayed over the main altar.
Campiello di Miracoli, Rio d. Miracoli. No phone. 3€. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Vaporetto: Rialto (located midway btw. the Rialto Bridge and the Campo SS. Giovanni e Paolo).
Giudecca & San Giorgio
Il Redentore CHURCH Perhaps the masterpiece among Palladio’s churches, Il Redentore was commissioned by Venice to give thanks for being delivered from the great plague (1575-77), which claimed over a quarter of the population (some 46,000 people). The doge established a tradition of visiting this church by crossing a long pontoon bridge made up of boats from the Dorsoduro’s Zattere on the third Sunday of each July, a tradition that survived the demise of the doges and remains one of Venice’s most popular festivals.
The interior is done in grand, painstakingly classical Palladian style. The artworks tend to be workshop pieces (from the studios or schools of Tintoretto and Veronese), but there is a fine “Baptism of Christ” by Veronese himself in the sacristy, which also contains Alvise Vivarini’s “Madonna with Child & Angels” alongside works by Jacopo da Bassano and Palma il Giovane, who also did the “Deposition” over the right aisle’s third chapel.
Campo del Redentore 195, La Giudecca. 041-523-1415. 3€. Mon-Sat 10am-5pm. Vaporetto: Redentore.
San Giorgio Maggiore CHURCH This church sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from Piazza San Marco. It is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the great Renaissance architect from nearby Padua. Most known for his country villas built for Venice’s wealthy merchant families, Palladio designed this church in 1565 and it was completed in 1610. To impose a classical front on the traditional church structure, Palladio designed two interlocking facades, with repeating triangles, rectangles, and columns that are harmoniously proportioned. Founded as early as the 10th century, the church had its interior reinterpreted by Palladio with whitewashed stucco surfaces, an unadorned but harmonious space. The main altar is flanked by two epic paintings by Tintoretto, “The Fall of Manna,” to the left, and the more noteworthy “Last Supper” to the right, famous for its chiaroscuro. To the right of the choir leading to the Cappella dei Morti (Chapel of the Dead), you will find Tintoretto’s “Deposition.” To the left of the choir is an elevator that you can take to the top of the campanile (6€ charge), to experience an unforgettable view of the island, the lagoon, and the Palazzo Ducale and Piazza San Marco across the way.
On the island of San Giorgio Maggiore, across St. Mark’s Basin from Piazza San Marco. 041-5227827. Free. Mon-Sat 9:30am-12:30pm; daily 2:30-6:30pm (Oct-Apr to 4:30pm). Vaporetto: Take the Giudecca-bound vaporetto (no. 2) on Riva degli Schiavoni (San Marco/San Zaccaria) and get off at the 1st stop, San Giorgio Maggiore.
Exploring Venice’s Islands
Venice shares its lagoon with three other principal islands: Murano, Burano, and Torcello. Guided tours of the three are operated by a dozen agencies with docks on Riva degli Schiavoni/Piazzetta San Marco (all interchangeable). The 3- and 4-hour tours run 25€ to 35€, usually include a visit to a Murano glass factory (you can easily do that on your own, with less of a hard sell), and leave daily around 9:30am and 2:30pm (times change; check in advance).
You can also visit the islands on your own conveniently and easily using the vaporetti. Line nos. 4.1 and 4.2 make the journey to Murano from Fondamente Nove (on the north side of Castello). For Murano, Burano, and Torcello, Line no. 12 departs Fondamente Nove every 30 minutes; for Torcello change to the shuttle boat (Line 9) that runs from Burano, timed to match the arrivals from Venice. The islands are small and easy to navigate, but check the schedule for the next island-to-island departure (usually hourly) and your return so that you don’t spend most of your day waiting for connections.
Traditional glass blowing in Murano.
The island of Murano has long been famous throughout the world for the products of its glass factories. A visit to the Museo del Vetro (Museum of Glass) , Fondamenta Giustinian 8 (www.museovetro.visitmuve.it; 041-739586), provides context, charting the history of the island’s glassmaking and is definitely worthwhile if you intend to buy a lot of glassware. Daily hours are 10am to 6pm (Nov-Mar to 5pm), and admission is 10€ for adults and 7.50€ children 6 to 14 and students 30 and under.
Dozens of fornaci (kilns) offer free shows of mouth-blown glassmaking, almost invariably hitched to a hard-sell tour of their factory outlet. These retail showrooms of delicate glassware can be enlightening or boring, depending on your frame of mind. Almost all the places will ship their goods, but that often doubles the price. On the other hand, these pieces are instant heirlooms.
Murano is also graced by two worthy churches (both free admission): the largely 15th-century San Pietro Martire (Mon-Sat 9am-5:30pm, Sun noon-5:30pm), with its paintings by Veronese and Giovanni Bellini, and the ancient Santa Maria e Donato (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 12:30-6pm), with its intricate Byzantine exterior apse, 6th-century pulpit, stunning mosaic of Mary over the altar, and a fantastic 12th-century inland floor.
Lace is the claim to fame of tiny, historic Burano, a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives of fishermen waiting for their husbands to return from the sea. Sadly, most of the lace sold on the island these days is made by machine elsewhere. It’s still worth a trip if you have time to stroll the back streets of the island, whose canals are lined with the brightly colored, simple homes of the Buranesi fishermen—it’s quite unlike anything in Venice or Murano. The local government continues its attempt to keep its centuries-old lace legacy alive with subsidized classes.
Visit the Museo del Merletto (Museum of Lace Making) , Piazza Galuppi 187 (www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it; 041-730034), to understand why something so exquisite should not be left to fade into extinction. It’s open Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm (Nov-Mar to 5pm), and admission is 5€ adults, 3.50€ children 6 to 14 and students 29 and under.
Torcello is perhaps the most charming of the islands, though today it consists of little more than one long canal leading from the vaporetto landing to a clump of buildings at its center.
Torcello boasts the oldest Venetian monument, the Basilica di Santa Maria dell’Assunta , whose foundation dates from the 7th century ( 041-2702464). It’s justly famous for its spectacular 11th- to 12th-century Byzantine mosaics—a “Madonna and Child” in the apse and a monumental “Last Judgment” on the west wall—rivaling those of Ravenna’s and St. Mark’s basilicas. The cathedral is open daily 10:30am to 6pm (November through February to 5pm), and admission is 5€ (audioguide an extra 2€). Also of interest is the adjacent 11th-century church of Santa Fosca (free admission), though it’s a simple Byzantine brick church with a plain interior, and the Museo di Torcello ( 041-730761) with two small galleries showcasing archeological artifacts from the Iron Age to medieval period, many found on the island. The church closes 30 minutes before the basilica, and the museum is open Tuesday to Sunday 10:30am to 5:30pm (Nov-Feb to 5pm). Museum admission is 3€. You must buy tickets for all attractions at the Basilica entrance.
Peaceful Torcello is uninhabited except for a handful of families (plus a population of feral cats), and is a favorite picnic spot. You’ll have to bring the food from Venice—there are no stores on the island and only a handful of bars/trattorias plus one destination restaurant, Locanda Cipriani (open Mar-Dec, Wed-Mon, noon-3pm; www.locandacipriani.com) of Hemingway fame, which opened in 1935 and is definitely worth a splurge. Once the tour groups have left, the island offers a very special moment of solitude and escape.
Although a convenient 15-minute vaporetto ride away from San Marco, Venice’s Lido beaches are not much to write home about and certainly no longer a chic destination. For bathing and sun-worshipping there are much better beaches nearby—in Jesolo, to the north, for example. But the parade of wealthy Italian and foreign tourists (plus a good number of Venetian families) who still frequent this coastal area is an interesting sight indeed.
There are two main beach areas at the Lido. Bucintoro is at the opposite end of Gran Viale Santa Maria Elisabetta (referred to as the Gran Viale) from the vaporetto station Santa Elisabetta. It’s a 10-minute stroll; walk straight ahead along Gran Viale to reach the beach. San Nicolò, about 1.5km (1 mile) away, can be reached by bus B. Renting loungers and parasols can cost from 10€-20€ per person (per day) depending on the time of year (it’s just 1€ to use the showers and bathrooms). Keep in mind that if you stay at any of the hotels on the Lido, most of them have some kind of agreement with the different bagni (beach establishments).
A beach on the Lido.
Vaporetto line nos. 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2, and LN cross the lagoon to the Lido from the San Zaccaria-Danieli stop near San Marco. Note that the Lido becomes chilly, windswept and utterly deserted from October and April.
Because of the sheer number of sights to see in Venice, some first-time visitors like to start out with an organized tour. Although few things can really be covered in any depth on these overview tours, they’re sometimes useful for getting your bearings. Avventure Bellissime (www.tours-italy.com; 041-970499) coordinates a plethora of tours (in English), by boat and gondola, though the walking tours are the best value, covering all the main sights around Piazza San Marco in 2 hours for 25€. For something with a little more bite, try Urban Adventures (www.urbanadventures.com; 348-9808566), which runs enticing cicchetti tours (21⁄2 hr.) for 80€.
THE FILM FESTIVAL
The Venice International Film Festival , in late August and early September, is the most respected celebration of celluloid in Europe after Cannes. Films from all over the world are shown in the Palazzo del Cinema on the Lido as well as at various venues—and occasionally in some of the campi. Ticket prices vary, but those for the less-sought-after films are usually modest. See www.labiennale.org for more details.
For those with more energy, learn to “row like a Venetian” (yes, literally standing up), at Row Venice (www.rowvenice.com; 347-7250637), where 11⁄2-hour lessons take place in traditional, hand-built “shrimp-tail” or batele coda di gambero boats for 85€ for up to 2 people. Or you could abandon tradition altogether and opt for a Venice Kayak tour (www.venicekayak.com; 346-4771327), a truly enchanting way to see the city from the water. Day trips are 120€ per person for two to six people with a guide (11am-4 or 5pm).
CARNEVALE A VENEZIA
Carnevale traditionally was the celebration preceding Lent, the period of penitence and abstinence prior to Easter; its name is derived from the Latin carnem levare, meaning “to take meat away.” Today Carnevale in Venice builds for 10 days until the big blowout, Shrove Tuesday (Fat Tuesday), when fireworks illuminate the Grand Canal, and Piazza San Marco is turned into a giant open-air ballroom for the masses. The festival is a harlequin patchwork of musical and cultural events, many of them free of charge, which appeals to all ages, tastes, nationalities, and budgets. Musical events are staged in some of the city’s dozens of piazze—from reggae and zydeco to jazz and baroque. Special art exhibits are mounted at museums and galleries. Book your hotel months ahead, especially for the 2 weekends prior to Shrove Tuesday. Check www.carnevalevenezia.com for details on upcoming events.
Especially for Kids
It goes without saying that a gondola ride (p. 231) will be the thrill of a lifetime for any child (or adult). If that’s too expensive, consider the far cheaper alternative: a ride on the no. 1 vaporetto (p. 228).
Judging from the squeals of delight, feeding the pigeons in Piazza San Marco (purchase a bag of corn and you’ll be draped in pigeons in a nanosecond) could be the high point of your child’s visit to Venice, and it’s the ultimate photo op. Be sure your child won’t be startled by all the fluttering and flapping.
A jaunt to the neighboring island of Murano (p. 279) can be as educational as it is recreational—follow the signs to any fornace (kiln), where a glassblowing performance of the island’s thousand-year-old art is free entertainment. But be ready for the guaranteed sales pitch that follows.
Take the elevator to the top of the Campanile di San Marco (p. 264) for a scintillating view of Venice’s rooftops and cupolas, or get up close and personal with the four bronze horses on the facade of the Basilica San Marco. The view from its outdoor loggia is something you and your children won’t forget. Scaling the Torre dell’Orologio (p. 268) or the bell tower at San Giorgio Maggiore (p. 278) is also lots of fun.
The winged lion, said to have been a kind of mascot to St. Mark, patron saint of Venice, was the very symbol of the Serene Republic and to this day appears on everything from cafe napkins to T-shirts. Keep a running tab of who can spot the most flying lions—you’ll find them on facades, atop columns, over doorways, as pavement mosaics, on government stamps, and on the local flag.
In a city that for centuries has thrived almost exclusively on tourism, remember this: Where you buy cheap, you get cheap. Venetians, centuries-old merchants, aren’t known for bargaining. You’ll stand a better chance of getting a good deal if you pay in cash or buy more than one item. In our limited space below, we’ve listed some of the more reputable places to stock up on classic Venetian items.
Shopping Streets & Markets
A mix of low-end trinket stores and middle-market-to-upscale boutiques line the narrow zigzagging Mercerie running north between Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge. More expensive boutiques make for great window-shopping on Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the wide street that begins west of Piazza San Marco and wends its way to the expansive Campo Santo Stefano near the Accademia. The narrow Frezzeria, just west of Piazza San Marco and running north-south, offers bars, souvenir shops, and tony clothing stores like Louis Vuitton and Versace. There are few bargains to be had; the non-produce part of the Rialto Market is as good as it gets for basic souvenirs, where you’ll find cheap T-shirts, glow-in-the-dark plastic gondolas, and tawdry glass trinkets. The Mercatino dei Miracoli ( 041-2710022), held only six times a year in Campo Santa Maria Nova (Cannaregio), is a fabulous flea market with all sorts of bric-a-brac and antiques sold by ordinary Venetians—haggling, for once, is acceptable. It usually takes place on the second Saturday or Sunday of March, April, May, September, October, and December, from 8:30am to 8pm. The Mercatino dell’Antiquariato (www.mercatinocamposanmaurizio.it) is a professional antiques market in Campo San Maurizio, San Marco; it takes place 4 to 5 times a year (usually Mar-Apr, May, Sept, Oct, and Dec; check the website for dates).
Arts & Crafts
Venice is uniquely famous for local crafts that have been produced here for centuries and are hard to get elsewhere: the glassware from Murano, the delicate lace from Burano, and the cartapesta (papier-mâché) Carnevale masks you’ll find in endless botteghe (shops), where you can watch artisans paint amid their wares.
Now here’s the bad news: There’s such an overwhelming sea of cheap glass that buying Venetian glass can become something of a turn-off (shipping and insurance costs make most things unaffordable; the alternative is to hand-carry anything fragile). There are so few women left on Burano willing to spend countless tedious hours keeping alive the art of lace-making that the few pieces you’ll see not produced by machine in China are sold at stratospheric prices; ditto the truly high-quality glass (although trinkets can be cheap and fun). The best place to buy glass is Murano itself—the “Vetro Artistico Murano” trademark guarantees its origin, but expect to pay as much as 60€ for just a wine glass.
Anticlea Antiquariato This shop specializes in the shiny glass beads known as perle Veneziane (“Venetian pearls”), with drawers full of every conceivable type and color, as well as ready-to-wear rings, necklaces, and bracelets. It’s open Monday to Saturday 10am to 1:30pm and 2 to 7pm. Calle San Provolo 4719A, Castello (just off Campo San Provolo). 041-5224045. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria.
Atelier Segalin di Daniela Ghezzo Founded in 1932 by master cobbler Antonio Segalin and his son Rolando, this old leather shoe store is now run by Daniela Ghezzo (the star apprentice of Rolando), maker of exuberant handmade shoes and boots, from basic flats to crazy footwear designed for Carnevale (shoes from 650€-1,800€). It’s open Monday to Friday 10am to 1pm and 3 to 7pm, and Saturday 10am to 1pm. Calle dei Fuseri 4365, San Marco. www.danielaghezzo.it. 041-5222115. Vaporetto: San Marco.
La Bottega dei Mascareri High-quality, creative masks—some based on Tiepolo paintings—crafted by the brothers Sergio and Massimo Boldrin since 1984. Basic masks start at around 15€ to 20€, but you’ll pay over 75€ for a more innovative piece. The original branch lies at the foot of the Rialto Bridge (San Polo 80; 041-5223857). Both locations tend to open daily 9am to 6pm. Calle dei Saoneri 2720, San Polo. www.mascarer.com. 041-5242887. Vaporetto: Rialto.
Ca’ del Sol Maschere Another treasure trove of Venetian masks, run by a group of artists since 1986 (prices range from 35€-360€). They also make elaborate 18th-century costumes and even run mask-making courses. It opens daily 10am to 8pm. Fondamenta de l’Osmarin 4964, Castello. www.cadelsolmascherevenezia.com. 041-5285549. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria.
Il Canovaccio Remember the creepy orgy scenes in Stanley Kubrick’s film Eyes Wide Shut? The ornate masks used in the movie were made by the owners of this vaunted store. All manner of traditional, feathered and animal masks are knocked out of their on-site workshop. It’s open daily 10am to 7:30pm. Calle delle Bande 5369 (near Campo Santa Maria Formosa), Castello. 041-5210393. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria.
Il Grifone Toni Peressin’s handmade leather briefcases, satchels, bound notebooks, belts, and soft-leather purses have garnered quite a following, and justly so—his craftsmanship is truly magnificent (he makes everything in the workshop out back). Small items start at around 25€. It’s usually open Tuesday to Friday 9am to 12:30pm and 4 to 7:30pm, and Saturday 10am to noon. Fondamenta del Gaffaro 3516, Dorsoduro. www.ilgrifonevenezia.it. 041-5229452. Vaporetto: Piazzale Roma.
Marco Polo International This vast showroom, just west of the Piazza San Marco, displays quality glass direct from Murano (although it’s more expensive than going to the island yourself), including plenty of easy to carry items such as paperweights and small dishes. It opens daily 10am to 7pm. Frezzeria 1644, San Marco. www.marcopolointernational.it. 041-5229295. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Venini Convenient, classy, but incredibly expensive, Venini has been selling quality glass art since 1921, supplying the likes of Versace and many other designer brands. Their workshop on Murano is at Fondamenta Vetrai 50 ( 041-2737211). Both locations tend to open Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 5:30pm. Piazzetta Leoncini 314, San Marco. www.venini.it. 041-5224045. Vaporetto: San Marco.
ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE
If you’re looking for serious nocturnal action, you’re in the wrong town—Verona and Padua are far more lively. Your best bet is to sit in the moonlit Piazza San Marco and listen to the cafes’ outdoor orchestras, with the illuminated basilica before you—the perfect opera set—though this pleasure comes with a hefty price tag. Other popular spots to hang out include Campo San Bartolomeo, at the foot of the Rialto Bridge (although it is a zoo here in high season), and nearby Campo San Luca. In late-night hours, for low prices and low pretension, the absolute best place to go is Campo Santa Margherita, a huge open campo about halfway between the train station and the Accademia Bridge.
Visit one of the tourist information centers for current English-language schedules of the month’s special events. The monthly Ospite di Venezia is distributed free or online at www.unospitedivenezia.it and is extremely helpful, but it’s usually available only in the more expensive hotels.
Performing Arts & Live Music
Venice has a long and rich tradition of classical music, and there’s always a concert going on somewhere. Several churches and confraternities (such as San Stae, the Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista, and the Scuola di San Rocco) regularly host classical music concerts (with an emphasis on the baroque) by local and international artists. This was, after all, the home of Vivaldi. People dressed in period costumes stand around in heavily trafficked spots near San Marco and Rialto passing out brochures advertising classical music concerts, so you’ll have no trouble finding up-to-date information.
Santa Maria della Pietà The so-called “Vivaldi Church,” built between 1745 and 1760, holds concerts throughout the year; check the website for specific dates. Lauded ensemble I Virtuosi Italiani gives a concert series here every September. Full price tickets are usually 25-30€. Riva degli Schiavoni 3701, Castello. www.chiesavivaldi.it. 041-5221120. Vaporetto: San Zaccaria.
Teatro La Fenice One of Italy’s most famous opera houses (it officially ranks third after La Scala in Milan and San Carlo in Naples), La Fenice opened in 1836, but was rebuilt after a devastating fire and reopened in 2003. The opera season runs late November through June, but there are also ballet performances and classical concerts. Tickets are expensive for the major productions; around 80€ for the gallery, and 110€ to 220€ for a decent seat. Those on a budget can opt for obstructed-view seats (30€) or listening-only seats (15€). Campo San Fantin 1965, San Marco. www.teatrolafenice.it. 041-2424. Vaporetto: Giglio.
For tourists and locals alike, Venetian nightlife mainly centers on the many cafes in one of the world’s most remarkable piazze: Piazza San Marco. It is also a most expensive and touristed place to linger over a spritz, but it’s a splurge that should not be dismissed too readily.
Caffè dei Frari Established in 1870, the walls of this inviting bar and cafe overlooking the Frari church are adorned with the original murals, an antique wooden bar, and a wrought-iron balcony upstairs. The seafood is especially good here, and there are usually at least three excellent German beers on tap. The laid-back owner doubles as DJ on Friday and Saturday evenings (he’s pretty good). Open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 10pm, and Sunday and Monday 9am to 4pm. Fondamenta dei Frari 2564, San Polo. 041-5241877. Vaporetto: San Tomà.
Caffè Florian Occupying prime piazza real estate since 1720, this is one of the world’s oldest coffee shops, with a florid interior of 18th-century mirrors, frescoes, and statuary. Sitting at a table, expect to pay 9.50€ for a cappuccino, 18.50€ for a Bellini (Prosecco and fresh peach nectar in season) and 12.50€ for a spritz—add another 6€ if the orchestra plays (Mar-Nov). Standing or sitting at the bar is much cheaper (5€ for a cappuccino, 8.50€ for a Bellini and so on). Open Monday to Thursday 10am to 9pm, Friday and Saturday 9am to 11pm, and Sunday 9am to 9pm. Piazza San Marco 56. www.caffeflorian.com. 041-5205641. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Caffè Lavena Said to be Wagner’s favorite cafe and the hangout of fellow composer Franz Liszt in the 19th century, Lavena lies on the opposite side of the piazza to Florian and was founded just a few decades later in 1750. Expect the same high prices and surcharges here (a famous case saw seven tourists charged 100€ for four coffees and three liqueurs), though as with Florian, if you stand and drink at the bar you’ll pay much less than sitting at a table (espresso is just 1€). Open daily 9:30am to midnight (closed Tues in winter). Piazza San Marco 133-134. www.lavena.it. 041-5224070. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Gran Caffè Quadri The final member of the San Marco “big three,” Quadri opened in 1638 as “Il Rimedio” (“The Remedy”), but it was more of a retail coffee operation at first, with the restaurant upstairs added in 1830. It’s been revitalized by chef Max Alajmo of Le Calandre restaurant in Padua, with a fancy restaurant upstairs (Ristorante Quadri). Most coffees are 7.50€ to 11€, with breakfast from 27€ to 31€. Beer is 12.50€ to 15.50€ and Bellinis are 18€. April to October, guests are serenaded by the 121 St. Mark’s Band (an extra 6€). Open daily 9am to midnight (closed Mon in winter). Piazza San Marco 121. www.alajmo.it. 041-5222105. Vaporetto: San Marco.
Il Caffè (aka Caffè Rosso) Established in the late 19th century, Il Caffè has a history almost as colorful as its clientele, a mixture of students, aging regulars, and lost tourists. This is an old-fashioned, no-nonsense Venetian cafe/bar, with reasonably priced drinks and sandwiches, and plenty of seating on the campo. Open Monday to Saturday 7am to 1am. Campo Santa Margherita 2963, Dorsoduro. www.cafferosso.it. 041-5287998. Vaporetto: Ca’Rezzonico.
Marchini Time Plush modern cafe that acts as the outlet for the famed Marchini pasticcerie (almost 50 years old), offering a range of addictive pastries, biscotti, chocolates, coffees, cakes, and savory pizzette. It’s open Monday to Saturday 7am to 8:30pm. Campo San Luca 4589, San Marco. 041-2413087. Vaporetto: Rialto.
Pasticceria Nobile The most happening cafe in this section of town was founded in the 1930s and is celebrated for its tempting range of sweets, snacks, pastries, and chocolate. Locals congregate here for breakfast and for aperitivo after work. Open Tuesday to Sunday 7am to 8:30pm (closed July). Calle del Pistor 1818, Cannaregio. www.pasticcerianobile.it. 041-720731. Vaporetto: San Marcuola.
Birreria, Wine & Cocktail Bars
Although Venice boasts an old and prominent university, dance clubs barely enjoy their 15 minutes of popularity before changing hands or closing down (some are open only in the summer months). Young Venetians tend to go to the Lido in summer or mainland Mestre. Evenings are better spent lingering over a late dinner, having a pint in a birrerie, or nursing a glass of prosecco in one of Piazza San Marco’s or Campo Santa Margherita’s pricey outdoor bars and cafes. (Note: Most bars are open Mon-Sat 8pm-midnight.)
Al Prosecco Get acquainted with all things bubbly at this smart enoteca, a specialist, as you’d expect, in Veneto prosecco. It features plenty of tasty cicchetti to wash down the various brands, and a gorgeous terrace from which to observe the campo below. Drinks run 3€ to 5€. Open Monday to Saturday 10am to 10:30pm (closes at 8pm in winter; closed Aug and Jan). Campo San Giacomo da l’Orio 1503, Santa Croce. www.alprosecco.com. 041-5240222. Vaporetto: San Stae.
Caffè Centrale Not really a cafe but a super hip bar and restaurant (with iPad menus), this spot is located within the 16th-century Palazzo Cocco Molin, just a short walk from Piazza San Marco. It’s got an intriguing selection of local and foreign beers (5.50€-7.50€), and a huge cocktail list (10€-12€)—cover is an extra 5€ per person. Get a table by the canal or lounge on one of the super comfy leather sofas. Open daily 7pm to 1am. Piscina Frezzeria 1659, San Marco. www.caffecentralevenezia.com. 041-8876642. Vaporetto: Vallaresso.
Harry’s Bar Possibly the most famous bar in Venice (and now a global chain), Harry’s was established in 1931 by Giuseppe Cipriani and frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Charlie Chaplin, and Truman Capote. The Bellini was invented here in 1948 (along with carpaccio 2 years later), and you can sip the signature concoction of fresh peach juice and prosecco for a mere 16€. Go for the history but don’t expect a five-star experience—most first-timers are surprised just how ordinary it looks inside. It also serves very expensive food, but just stick to the drinks. Open daily 10:30am to 11pm. Calle Vallaresso 1323, San Marco. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. 041-5285777. Vaporetto: Vallaresso.
Margaret DuChamp This popular student and fashionista hangout has plenty of chairs on the campo for people-watching, cocktails, and a spritz or two (most cocktails are just 5€-7€). It also serves decent panini (7.50€) and tramezzini (2€ at the table, or 1.50€ at the bar), and has free Wi-Fi. Open Wednesday to Monday 9am to 2am. Campo Santa Margherita 3019, Dorsoduro. 041-5286255. Vaporetto: Ca’ Rezzonico.
Paradiso Perduto “Paradise Lost” is the most happening bar in this neighborhood, crammed with students most nights and featuring the occasional live jazz or blues set (full concerts every Mon and every first Sun of the month), great cicchetti (piled in mountains at the bar) and cheap(ish) wine. Some people come to dine on the tasty seafood, but it’s usually too busy and noisy to enjoy a proper meal here—stick to the drinks and the snacks. Open Thursday to Monday noon to midnight (closed Tues-Wed). Fondamenta della Misericordia 2540, Cannaregio. www.ilparadisoperduto.com. 041-720581. Vaporetto: Madonna dell’Orto.