Victoria Falls - Fodor's The Complete Guide to African Safaris: with South Africa, Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, Namibia, Rwanda & the Seychelles (Full-color Travel Guide) (2015)

Fodor's The Complete Guide to African Safaris: with South Africa, Kenya, Tanzania, Botswana, Namibia, Rwanda & the Seychelles (Full-color Travel Guide) (2015)

Victoria Falls

Main Table of Contents

Welcome to Victoria Falls

Livingstone, Zambia

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

Welcome to Victoria Falls

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Top Reasons to Go | Getting Oriented | When To Go

Updated by Vicky Hunter

Roughly 1,207 km (750 miles) from its humble origins as an insignificant spring in northern Zambia, the Zambezi River has grown more than a mile wide. Without much warning the river bends south, the current speeds up, and the entire mass of water disappears into a single fissure. More than 1 million gallons of water rush over a vertical, 328-foot-high drop in the time it takes an average reader to reach the end of this paragraph. The resulting spray is astounding, the brute force forming a cloud of mist visible 64 km (40 miles) away on a clear day.

The settlements of Livingstone in Zambia and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe both owe their existence to the Zambezi and the Falls. Though they’re located in different countries and intriguingly diverse in character, they function almost like two sides of one town. Crossing the border is a formality that generally happens with minimum fuss. Although the Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls has escaped the political strife that has dogged the country in recent years, Livingstone, on the Zambian side is determined to remain the favored destination. Zambia spoils guests with an overabundance of top-class safari lodges along the Zambezi, and this strong competition has resulted in an emphasis on personalized service, which enables you to tailor your visit.

On the other hand, Zimbabwe is slowly rebuilding itself and severe shortages of basic necessities are a thing of the past. The relative absence of large numbers of travelers is a luxury in itself, and this area currently provides good value for money.

The region as a whole deserves its reputation as an adventure center and offers adrenaline-inducing activities by the bucketful. The backdrop for any of these is stunning, and the safety record nothing less than spectacular.

TOP REASONS TO GO

A World-Class Phenomenon. Not only can you experience Victoria Falls and the Batoka Gorge from every angle—the sheer size of this wonder fosters the delightful illusion of exclusivity.

The Adrenaline Rush. Looking for an adventure to get your heart pounding? From bungee jumping to elephant-back riding and skydiving, Victoria Falls truly has it all.

Perfectly Indulgent Relaxation. Massages are offered on the banks of the Zambezi River, sumptuous food is served wherever you turn, and there are few sights on earth that rival watching the spray of the Falls fade from rainbow to starlight while enjoying cocktails at the end of the day.

Intact Africa. The heart of the Dark Continent proudly showcases a region governed by people who have lived here for centuries, proudly utilizing the very latest in ecotourism and benefitting from environmentally conscious development.

GETTING ORIENTED

Victoria Falls is in Southern Africa and physically provides a natural border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Each country has a national park that surrounds the Falls (Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park in Zambia and Victoria Falls National Park in Zimbabwe), as well as a town (Livingstone in Zambia and Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe) that serves as the respective tourist center for each country. The fissure currently framing the Falls stretches over a mile, roughly from northwest to southeast. Livingstone lies to the north and the town of Victoria Falls immediately to the south of the Falls. The official border between the countries is within walking distance of the compact town of Victoria Falls but around 10 km (6 miles) from Livingstone. The stretch between the Falls border and town center on the Livingstone side should not be attempted on foot because of the dangers of wandering elephants, the African sun, and the occasional opportunistic thief.

Livingstone, Zambia. Named after the famous Dr. David Livingstone, the town was established in 1900, 10 km (6 miles) north of the Falls. Its main street, Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, still boasts examples of classic colonial buildings. The recently publicized political unrest in Zimbabwe has caused many tourists to choose Livingstone rather than Victoria Falls as a base for exploration of the area.

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The town of Victoria Falls hugs the Falls on the Zambezi’s southwestern bank. The view of the Falls and the gorge is pretty spectacular from Zimbabwe. At one time, the town was the principal tourist destination for the area. The town of Victoria Falls continues to be perfectly safe, and the general atmosphere has greatly improved as tentative stability returns to the area.

WHEN TO GO

If you’re at all sensitive to heat and humidity, visit from May through August, when it’s dry and cool, with pleasant days and cool to cold nights. The winter bush is dry, with most of the grass having died down, and the leaves fallen from the trees. The advantage is improved game-viewing, and most other adventure activities are more comfortable in the cooler weather. This is also the time when the mosquitoes are less active, although it remains a malaria area year-round, and precautions should always be taken.

The rainy season starts sometime around late October and generally stretches well into April. As the heavens open up the bug population explodes with mosquitoes, and the harmless but aptly named stink bug seemingly runs the show for brief periods of the day. Of course, the abundance of insect life also leads to great bird-watching. Although the rain showers tend to be of the short and spectacular kind, they can interfere with some activities, especially if your visit to the area is brief. Try to arrange excursions for the early hours of the day, as the rain generally falls in the late afternoon.

Peak flow for Victoria Falls occurs in late April and May, when rafting and visiting Livingstone Island might not be possible. If your visit coincides with school vacations in South Africa, the area can become quite crowded.

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Livingstone, Zambia

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Planning | Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Sports and the Outdoors | Shopping

This marvelous old town, once the government capital of Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia), boasts a wealth of natural beauty and a surplus of activities. After a few decades of neglect it’s recently recast itself as Zambia’s tourism and adventure capital.

There’s a tangible whiff of the past here: historic buildings outnumber new ones, and many local inhabitants live a life not unlike the one they would have experienced 100 years ago. Livingstone handles the surge of tourists with equal parts of grace, confidence, African mischief, and nuisance.

Many visitors to this side of the Falls opt to stay in one of the secluded safari-style lodges on the Zambezi River. The Zambian experience sprawls out along the many bends of the large river and time ticks in a very deliberate African manner.

Mosi-oa-Tunya. The smoke that thunders. Zambia’s Kololo tribe best describe what is the world’s most awe-inspiring and largest waterfall plummeting 354 feet into a mile-long, ravaged chasm. Breathtaking views of Victoria Falls take center stage in Zambia’s the spectrum of natural beauty that rises from Zambezi River basins. At the heart of Zambia’s other geological wonders are the ancient waters of Lake Tanganyika, man-made Lake Kariba, and hot springs of Kapishya in North Luangwa National Park— refuges for increasingly endangered indigenous wildlife.


Fast Facts

Size 752,618 square km (290,587 square miles).

Number of National Parks 19. Kafue National Park, Lower Zambezi National Park, Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park (Victoria Falls National Park).

Population 13.5 million.

Big Five The gang’s all here.

Language Zambia has between 70 and 80 recorded languages, of which 42 are main dialects. Luckily English is the official language, and it’s widely spoken, read, and understood.

Time Zambia is on CAST (Central African standard time), which is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time and seven hours ahead of North American Eastern Standard Time. It’s the same as South Africa.


PLANNING

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

South African Airways and Comair/British Airways regularly fly from Johannesburg into Livingstone International Airport, 5 km (3 miles) out of town. The flight is a comfortable hop, under two hours in duration, and the airport is small and friendly, with helpful staff to speed you on your way. TIP If at all possible, don’t check your luggage in Johannesburg and always lock suitcases securely, as luggage theft in South Africa is an everyday occurrence.

There’s a perfectly reasonable traffic code in Zambia. Unfortunately, not many people have ever heard of it. You would do well to leave the driving to your local guides or negotiate an all-inclusive rate with a taxi driver recommended by your hotel or lodge for the duration of your stay. Note that taxis are generally not allowed to cross the border, so if you want to visit Zimbabwe, you’ll have to book a tour that includes transfers. Once at the border, it’s feasible to walk into and around Victoria Falls town or rent a bicycle.

If you insist on renting a car, you should know that some of the roads have more potholes than tar. You don’t necessarily need a 4x4, but it’s not a bad idea, especially if you want to go off-road at all. Voyagers has two offices in Livingstone: Mosi-oa-Tunya Road (opposite Ngolide Lodge) and Livingstone Airport. Hemingway’s rents out Toyota Hilux Double Cabs (similar to the Toyota Tacoma), fully equipped with tents and other camping equipment—you can even hire a driver! Costs start from US$220 per day for an unequipped vehicle.

TIP If you plan to add the popular Kafue and Lower Zambezi camps to your trip, you should book your transfers together with your accommodation through a travel agent or with your camp reservations, as air-transfer companies change hands and/or minds quite often in Zambia. A travel agent or camp will also assure that connection times work to your best advantage if they’re responsible for the transfers.

ESSENTIALS

Money Matters

The Zambian government is curbing the use of U.S dollars, and increasingly, places accept only Zambian kwacha. The kwacha comes in denominations of ZK50, ZK100, ZK500, ZK1,000, ZK5,000, ZK10,000, ZK20,000, and ZK50,000 bills, necessitating carrying huge wads of notes. The kwacha is theoretically divided into 100 ngwees, but as you can buy nothing for one kwacha, an ngwee exists in name only, and any bill including ngwees will simply be rounded off. At the time of writing, the conversion rate was about ZK4,900 to US$1.

TIP Tipping is less common in Zambia since service charges are included, but it’s appreciated. Small notes or 10% is appropriate. Gas-station attendants can be tipped, but tip a taxi driver only on the last day if you’ve used the same driver for a number of days.

Zambia has a 17.5% VAT and a 10% service charge, which is included in the cost or itemized on your bill.

International banks along Mosi-oa-Tunya Road in Livingstone have ATMs and exchange services. Banking hours are generally weekdays 8-2 (although some do open the last Saturday of the month). Bank ATMs accept only Visa.

TIP You may be invited to do a little informal foreign exchange by persuasive street financiers. Resist the temptation—it’s not worth the risk of being ripped off or arrested. There are many reputable exchange bureaus throughout town, though they’re sometimes flooded with dollars and low on kwacha, generally toward the end of the month. MasterCard and Visa are preferred by business owners and banks to American Express or Diners Club. Business owners always prefer cash to credit cards, and some smaller hotels levy fees up to 10% to use a credit card.

Passports and Visas

You’ll need a valid passport and visa to enter Zambia. Nationals of any country not on the Zambian Immigration Referred Visa list can simply purchase a visa upon entering the country. At press time a standard U.S. single-entry visa costs US$50, and a single-entry and transit visa cost the same. Day-trip visas cost US$20 (often included in the cost of prebooked activities, so check with your booking agent). If you plan to return to Zambia in the near future, you’ll need a multiple-entry visa, or you’ll have to buy another visa upon your return. Multiple-entry visas and visas for nationals from countries on the referred visa list (www.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm) can be purchased only at Zambian Missions abroad and not on arrival.

Safety and Precautions

For minor injuries, a test for malaria, or the treatment of non-life-threatening ailments, you can go to the Rainbow Trust Mwenda Medical Centre, Southern Medical Centre, or Dr. Shafik Hospital. For serious emergencies, contact SES (Specialty Emergency Services). There are a number of pharmacies in town including Health and Glow Pharmacy, Link Pharmacy, and HK Pharmacy. Pharmacies are generally open weekdays 8-8, Saturday 8-6, and Sunday 8-1.

It’s always a good idea to leave ample space in your luggage for common sense when traveling to Victoria Falls. Wild animals abound throughout this area (even in the center of town) and must be given a lot of physical space and respect. You must also remember that Zambia is relatively poor. There are tourism police, but opportunistic thieving still happens occasionally. Although crime in this area is generally nonviolent, losing your money, belongings, or passport will result in spending the remainder of your trip with various officials in stuffy, badly decorated offices instead of sitting back on the deck of your sunset cruise with drink in hand.

As for the water, it’s always advisable to drink bottled water, although the tap water in Zambia is generally considered safe. Should you develop any stomach upset, be sure to contact a physician, especially if you’re running a fever, in order to rule out malaria or a communicable disease. Do remember to mention your visit to a malaria area to your doctor in the event of illness within a year of leaving Africa.

Telephones

Telephone rates in Zambia are much cheaper and more stable than those in Zimbabwe. Check numbers very carefully, as some are Zimbabwean mobile phones. Zambia and Zimbabwe now both have cell coverage, and there are certain areas where the networks overlap and mobile telephones work in both countries. If you have any trouble dialing a number, check with a hotel or restaurant owner, who should be able to advise you of the best and cheapest alternative. International roaming on your standard mobile phone is also an option, as coverage is quite extensive. Alternatively, you could purchase a local SIM card with pay-as-you-go fill-ups. Pay phones aren’t an option, and the costs of all telephone calls out of the country can be exorbitant.

The country code for Zambia is 260.When dialing from abroad, drop the initial 0 from local area codes and cell-phone numbers. Note that all telephone numbers are listed as they’re dialed from the country that they’re in. Although the number for operator assistance is 100, you’ll be much better off asking your local lodge or restaurant manager for help.

ABOUT THE RESTAURANTS

In Zimbabwe, game meat can be found on almost any menu, but it’s something of a delicacy in Zambia; superior free-range beef and chicken are available everywhere. The local bream, filleted or whole, is excellent, and the staple starch, a thick porridge similar to polenta—sadza in Zimbabwe and nsima in Zambia—is worth a try; use your fingers to eat it (you’ll be given a bowl for washing afterward). Adventurous? Try macimbi or vinkuvala (sun-dried mopane worms) or inswa (flash-fried flying ants) during the flood season.

Meals are taken at regular hours, but during the week, restaurants close around 10. Dress is casual, but Africa easily lends itself to a little bling, and you’ll never be out of place in something more glamorous.

ABOUT THE LODGES

It’s advisable to make both flight and lodge reservations ahead of time. Lodges tend to have all-inclusive packages; hotels generally include breakfast only. All hotels and lodges quote in U.S. dollars but accept payment in other major currencies at unfriendly exchange rates. It might be best to take an all-inclusive package tour because meals can be exorbitantly expensive. A 10% service charge is either included or added to the bill (as is the value-added tax) in both countries, which frees you to include an extra tip only for exceptional service. Although air-conditioning can be expected in the hotels, lodges tend to have fans. TIP Travel with a sarong (locally available as a chitenge), which you can wet and wrap around your body, guaranteeing a cooler siesta.

Hotel and Restaurant Prices

Prices in the restaurant reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner isn’t served, at lunch; taxes and service charges are generally included. Prices in the lodging reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season, excluding taxes, service charges, and meal plans (except at all-inclusives). Prices for rentals are the lowest per-night cost for a one-bedroom unit in high season.

VISITOR INFORMATION

Although the Zambia National Tourist Board (next to the museum; open weekdays 8-1 and 2-5, Saturday 8-noon) is very helpful and friendly, you might be better off visiting Jollyboys (behind the Livingstone Museum; open daily 7 am-10 pm) for comprehensive and unbiased advice.

Contacts

Airlines
Comair/British Airways. | 013/4-2053, 013/4-2274 | www.britishairways.com.
South African Airways. | 0213/32-3031 | www.flysaa.com.

Car Rental Companies
Hemingway’s. | 0213/32-3097, 0977/86-6492 | hemingway@microlink.zm | www.hemingwayszambia.com.
Voyagers. | 0213/32-2753 | rrental@voyagerszambia.com | www.voyagerszambia.com.

Embassies
U.S. Embassy. | Ibex Hill Rd. (eastern end of Kabulonga Rd.), | Lusaka | 0211/35-7000 | zambia.usembassy.gov.

Emergency Services
Fire. | 993.
General emergencies. | 999, 112 from mobile phones.
Police. | 991.
SES. | 213/32-2330 from landline, 0977/74-0307/8 from cell phone | www.ses-zambia.com.

Hospitals
Rainbow Trust Mwenda Medical Centre. | Lusaka Rd., about one mile from center of Livingstone | 213/32-3519.
Dr. Shafik Hospital. | Katete Rd. | 213/32-1130.
Southern Medical Centre. | House 9,1967 Mokambo Rd. | 213/32-3547.

Internet Access

Jollyboys. | 34 Kanyanta Rd., behind the Livingstone Museum | 213/32-4229 | www.backpackzambia.com.

Visitor Info
Zambia National Tourist Board. | Tourist Centre,Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd. | 213/32-1404 | www.zambiatourism.com.
Jollyboys. | 34 Kanyanta Rd. | 213/32-4229 | www.backpackzambia.com.

Livingstone

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EXPLORING

Sights below appear on the Livingstone map.

Batoka Gorge.
Just below the Falls, the gorge forms an abyss between the countries with edges that drop away from the cliffs of both Zambia and Zimbabwe. Each successive sandstone gorge is numbered in sequence starting from the youngest (First Gorge to the Fifth Gorge), followed by Songwe Gorge and finally the official Batoka Gorge; it is common for all these gorges to be referred to collectively as The Gorge or Batoka Gorge. Batoka Gorge is more than 120 km (75 miles) long with vertical walls that are an average of 400 feet high (the Zambezi river water levels fluctuate up to 65 feet between the wet and dry season). Batoka lies mostly within the Hwange Communal Land and is covered with mopane and riparian forests that are interspersed with grassland. On the Zambian side, the gorge is surrounded by the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, which contains a tropical rain forest that thrives on the eternal rainfall from the Falls. Victoria Falls National Park in Zimbabwe surrounds the other side of the gorge. Operators from both countries offer excursions to what is reputed to be the world’s best one-day white-water rafting, with rapids rated between Class I and Class VI (amateurs can do only Class V and down commercially) that have been given evocative nicknames like “The Ugly Sisters” and “Oblivion.” If you’re “lucky” enough to experience what locals call a “long swim” (falling out of the raft at the start of a rapid and body surfing through), your definition of the word scary will surely be redefined. The walk in and out of the gorge is quite strenuous on the Zimbabwe side, but as long as you are reasonably fit and looking for adventure, you need no experience. On the Zambian side though, operators use a cable car to transport you from the bottom of the gorge to your waiting transportation (and beverage) at the top. Also on the Zambian side, travelers can walk down into the Boiling Pot (the first bend of the river after the Falls) in the First Gorge. It’s an easy walk down and slightly more challenging walk out of the gorge (lots of steps), but even young children enjoy it—be sure to carry extra sun protection and water.

Livingstone Museum.
The country’s oldest and largest museum contains history, ethnography, natural history, archaeology sections, and materials ranging from newspaper clippings to photographs of Queen Elizabeth II dancing with Kenneth Kaunda (Zambia’s first president) to historical information dating back to 1500. Among the priceless David Livingstone memorabilia is a model of the mangled arm bone used to identify his body and various journals and maps from the period when he explored the area and claimed the Falls for the English queen. | Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd., between civic center and post office | 213/32-0495 | ZK25,000 | Daily 9-4:30. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day.

Fodor’s Choice | Mosi-oa-Tunya (The Victoria Falls).
Literally translated as “the Smoke that Thunders,” the Falls more than lives up to its reputation as one of the world’s greatest natural wonders. Words can never do these incredible Falls justice, and it’s a difficult attraction to fully appreciate in a single visit, as it’s constantly changing. The Zimbabwean side offers famously panoramic views, while the Zambian side of the Falls features the Knife Edge bridge, which allows guests to stand virtually suspended over the Boiling Pot (the first bend of the river after the Falls), with the deafening water crashing everywhere around you. From around May through August the Falls are a multisensory experience, and there may be too much spray to see the bottom of the gorge. In high season the entire experience can be summed up in two words: power shower! Prepare to get soaked. If you stand with your back to the sun, you’ll be surrounded by a symphony of rainbows. A network of paths leads to the main viewing points; some are not well protected, so watch your step and wear sensible shoes, especially at high water, when you are likely to get dripping wet. You will have dramatic views of the full 1½ km (1 mile) of the ironstone face of the Falls, the Boiling Pot directly below, the railway bridge, and Batoka Gorge. During low water levels, it’s possible to take a guided walk to Livingstone Island and swim in the Devils Pool, a natural pond right on the lip of the abyss. | Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd., just before border post | ZK100,000 | Daily 6-6, later at full moon.

Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park.
This park is a quick and easy option for viewing plains game. In fact, you are almost guaranteed to spy white rhinos. You can also visit the Old Drift graveyard, as the park marks the location of the original settlement of Livingstone. The park’s guides are very knowledgeable, and while you’re free to explore on your own, the roads do get seriously muddy in the rainy season, and a guide who knows where to drive becomes a near-necessity. | Sichanga Rd., off Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd., 3½ km (2 miles) from Livingstone | ZK79,200 | Daily 6-6.

Mukuni Village.
Fascinated by the history, customs, and traditions of the area? Local guides can escort you on an intimate visit inside a house and explain the customs of the village. This is not a stage set but a very real village, so your tour will be different depending on the time of day. It is customary to sign in the visitors’ book and to pay a small fee to your guide. | Daily 6-6.

WHERE TO EAT

Golden Leaf.
$ | INDIAN | The Moghuls themselves might declare a meal here a feast. Spicy but not hot, the curries are lovingly prepared from ingredients imported from India. The chicken tikka masala is a house specialty, and the handmade saffron kulfi is an inspired dessert at the end of another hot day in Africa. | Average main: $10 | 110 Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd., opposite Ngolide Lodge | 213/32-1266 | No dinner Mon.

Fodor’s Choice | Livingstone Island Picnic.
$$$$ | ECLECTIC | Available throughout the year whenever the water levels are low enough, this is a spectacular, romantic dining option. Livingstone Island is perched right on the edge of the void, where you’ll dine at a table dressed with linen and gleaming silver on a delicious organic lunch (with salads) with drinks served by attentive waiters. You get there by boat (two engines, just in case). Brunch and afternoon tea are US$70 and US$100, respectively, and lunch is US$125, including transfers. The trips are run by Tongabezi Lodge, and there is a maximum of 16 guests. | Prix-fixe: $70 | Livingstone Island | 213/32-7450 | Reservations essential | Closed a couple of months around Feb.-June, depending on water levels. No dinner.

Olga’s Italian Corner.
$ | ITALIAN | This restaurant delivers a double whammy. Not only does it serve genuine homemade Italian food prepared from fresh local ingredients, it’s also part of an NGO project that trains and benefits the local youth. Open six days a week, Olga’s features homemade croissants and muffins with Italian espresso for breakfast and seasonal delights for lunch and dinner. All the Italian pastas and pizzas are prepared on the premises and served with flavorful sauces made to order. | Average main: $9 | 20 Mokambo Rd. | 213/32-4160 | www.olgasproject.com | No credit cards.

Fodor’s Choice | Royal Livingstone Express.
$$$$ | SOUTH AFRICAN | Walking the long stretch of red carpet alongside Locomotive 156 while it blows steam and rumbles in preparation for the journey is undeniably exciting and romantic. Dinner guests are seated in either the Wembley or Chesterfield dining carriage (both exquisitely restored) while the historic steam train pulls you through a bustling, charming shanty town over the Sinde River Bridge, and then back through Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park at sunset. The gourmet dinner is beautifully presented and meticulously prepared, offering guests no fewer than five set courses (special dietary requests can be catered to with advance notice). And yes, the train gives right-of-way to giraffes, elephants, and any other plains game who might decide to cross the tracks during dinner! TIP Dress code is “smart casual.” No shorts are allowed. | Prix-fixe: $175 | Km 0 of the Mulobezi line on Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd. | 213/32-3232 | www.royal-livingstone-express.com | Reservations essential | Closed Mon. and Tues.

WHERE TO STAY

CLOSE TO VICTORIA FALLS

Bovu.
$ | PERMANENT CAMP | The vibe of California and Marrakesh in the ‘60s and ‘70s is alive and well at this collection of thatch huts and campsites along the banks of the Zambezi, 52 km (32 miles) upstream of the Falls. Take a good book or an excellent companion. Accommodations are basic but somehow quite perfect, each with gorgeous river views, and there are hot showers and flush toilets. The kitchen is the heart of the island, and the emphasis is on wholesome organic food ($-$$). Vegetarian diners are always catered to, and coffee is taken fabulously seriously. Whether you are taken for a swim in a shallow section of small rapids naturally protected from crocodiles or hippos (this is the theory) or on a sunrise canoe trip, every day will hold natural wonder. Warning: “island time” operates here and anything goes, so the staid or conservative are likely to find it unsuitable. Bovu does pickups from Livingstone Airport and lodges on a daily basis. Don’t forget to check out the hat collection behind the bar in the main camp and add your own to the mix. Pros: Bovu is the Zambian chill-out zone; a great way to combine an educational canoe trip with a basic overnight camp; the perfect balance between comfort and a real commune with nature. Cons: this might be too basic for travelers who like their little luxuries; meals, fishing, and transfers are charged separately; guests have to bring their own towels. | Rooms from: $50 | 52 km (32 miles) upstream from Victoria Falls, on Zambezi River | 097/872-5282 | www.junglejunction.info | 8 huts | No credit cards | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Islands of Siankaba.
$$$$ | LUXURY LODGE | The lodge, located on two forested islands in the Zambezi River about 48 km (30 miles) upstream from Victoria Falls, was awarded the Environmental Certificate by the Environmental Council of Zambia in 2002. A suspension bridge links the two islands and leads to an overhead walkway in the tree canopy that connects the elevated chalets to the lodge’s restaurant. The walkway protects the islands’ delicate riverine environment. The lodge was constructed utilizing mainly commercially grown, nonindigenous pine. Where local wood was used, the lodge planted hardwood saplings to replace them. Electricity is drawn from the Victoria Falls hydroelectric plant, and river water is recycled and treated on-site for use in the camp. Local tribes are employed by the lodge, where sunset cruises, mokoro rides, guided nature walks, white-water rafting, and bungee jumping are all on the menu. Guests can also opt to fly over Victoria Falls in a microlight plane. Pros: beautifully secluded location. Cons: 40-minute transfer from Livingstone might be daunting for visitors planning to partake in many of the activities based in town and around the Falls. | Rooms from: $920 | 40 km (25 miles) from Livingstone along Nakatindi road on the Zambezi | 213/32-7490 | www.siankaba.net | 7 rooms | All-inclusive.

Jollyboys.
$ | BUDGET LODGE | When the New York Times includes a backpacker lodge on the same list as two five-star resorts, your curiosity should be tweaked. The entire design of this small establishment is user-friendly, inviting, and certainly aimed at both private relaxation and easy interaction with other travelers. Superbly maintained and professionally run, the lodge offers a variety of room types to suit every budget and need. There are eight unisex dorms varying from three to 16 beds, 10 private rooms with shared bathrooms, five private en-suite rooms and one executive suite with a private kitchen. The suite, five en-suite rooms, and two eight-bed dorms also have air-conditioning. The restaurant ($) serves the usual hamburger but also has a number of surprises on the menu, including a full roast on Sundays and exotic vegetarian soups made from local sweet potatoes and Indian spices. A kilometer away from the backpackers, just behind the Royal Livingstone Golf Course, is the new Jollyboys Camp, which is slightly more relaxed and family friendly. It has a family room, two dormitories, seven private rooms with shared bathrooms and seven en-suite rooms. Pros: very central location; free daily transfers to the Falls. Cons: the lodge and camp are for backpackers, so are pretty basic; the location of the lodge right in the middle of town might not be exactly where you’d like to spend your holiday. | Rooms from: $40 | Kanyanta Rd. | 213/324-229, 213/324-756 | www.backpackzambia.com | 24 rooms | No credit cards | No meals.

Prana Cottage & Tented Camp.
$ | PERMANENT CAMP | Taking its name from the Sanskrit for breathing, this exclusive camp offers the perfect opportunity for taking just that, a breather. Guests have their choice: stay in the main house or in one of the five well-appointed, en-suite tents. Spread out along one of the highest points in the region, the camp overlooks the surrounding bush. Plenty of staff are on hand to look after you and take care of the cooking, cleaning, and booking all of the area’s adventure activities for you. If you’re on a self-drive safari, book the tents with the tented kitchen and braai (barbeque) area. Prana also hosts yoga retreats and individual yoga classes on the property. The lovely big house is rented exclusively for US$450 per night and sleeps eight adults plus children. TIP There are no credit card facilities on the property, but you can pay via PayPal. Pros: this is privately owned and managed, and is the best value for an exclusive stay in the area; you are assured of personal attention and being completely off the beaten track yet only 10 minutes from Livingstone and 10 minutes from the entry to Mosi-oa-Tunya Park at the Falls. Cons: if you don’t have a car, you can feel a little isolated, although transfers are easily booked for activities. | Rooms from: $100 | Off Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd. | 213/32-7120 | www.pranazambia.com | 5 tents, 5 rooms | No credit cards | Breakfast.

The River Club.
$$$$ | LUXURY LODGE | With split-level rooms that cling to the edge of the great Zambezi, the River Club puts a modern spin on a Victorian house party. The view from the infinity pool seems unbeatable, until you watch the sun set from your claw-foot tub. Clever cooling mists of water draw flocks of birds to the massage tent, and the library begs for a glass of port and a serious book. History clings to the structure, built to the plans of the original house, but decorations have been lovingly collected from past and present. You could spend an entire day reading interesting anecdotes, old maps, Punch cartoons, and updates about the River Club’s support of the local village. A candlelight dinner is followed by a game of tennis, or croquet on the floodlighted lawn before you retire to your partially starlit room. You approach the lodge from the river—purely for the spectacular effect—but it necessitates negotiating some steep stairs. If you think you’ll struggle, ask to be transferred by vehicle. Pros: beautiful location with stunning views of the Zambezi; a/c and enclosed rooms are pluses for those who don’t want to give up too many modern conveniences. Cons: colonial decor may not be Zambian enough for some travelers; 20-minute drive from town for any activities that are not in-house. | Rooms from: $1190 | About 18 km (11 miles) upstream from Victoria Falls town, on Zambezi River | 213/32-7457 | www.theriverclubafrica.com | 10 rooms | All Meals.


Naming the Falls

Dr. David Livingstone, a Scottish medical doctor and missionary, visited Victoria Falls in 1855 and is widely credited with being the first European to document the existence of this natural wonder. He named it Victoria Falls in honor of his queen, although the Makololo name, Mosi-oa-Tunya (literally, “the Smoke that Thunders”), remains popular. Livingstone fell madly in love with the Falls, describing them in poignant prose. Other explorers had slightly different opinions. E. Holub could not contain his excitement and spoke effusively of “a thrilling throb of nature,” A. A. de Serpa Pinto called them “sublimely horrible” in 1881, and L. Decle (1898) declared ominously that he expected “to see some repulsive monster rising in anger” at any moment. The modern traveler has the luxury of exploring every one (or all) of these perspectives. There’s so much to do around the Falls that the only limitations will be your budget and sense of adventure or your lack thereof.


The Royal Livingstone.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This high-volume, high-end hotel has an incredibly gorgeous sundowner deck, arguably on the best spot on the river, just upstream from the Falls. The attractive colonial safari-style buildings recall a bygone era of elegance and splendor. Set amid sweeping green lawns and big trees, the Royal boasts some fantastic views, although passing guest traffic makes for a lack of real privacy. The decor of the 17 residences, each with approximately 10 guest rooms, as well as the public rooms is deliberately colonial and ostentatious. Food is beautifully prepared ($$$-$$$$) from a blend of fresh local and exotic imported ingredients. The Royal contributes to a truly noteworthy number of local charities and environmental efforts. This resort is tremendously popular and can be extremely busy, especially during peak times, but the staff is always friendly and helpful. Each room has a dedicated butler to take care of the individual needs of every guest. TIP Vervet monkeys are an entertaining nuisance, so hang on to your expensive cocktail. Pros: Location, location, location; the level of service here is definitely that of a five-star international hotel; rooms have air-conditioning, satellite TV, and fantastic snacks; there is direct access to the Falls via a resort gate that opens onto the eastern cataract. Cons: volume of people can lead to problems, omissions, and errors, with service standards struggling to match the high costs; if you’re traveling from other intimate safari properties, this big hotel might feel very impersonal. | Rooms from: $665 | Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd. | 213/32-1122 | zambia.reservations@zm.suninternational.com | www.suninternational.com | 173 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Sindabezi Island.
$$$$ | RESORT | This is the most environmentally friendly property on the Zambezi. The island makes use of solar power for heating, all the gray water is recycled, and the chalets are constructed mainly from sustainable forests. The island has a strict 10-guest maximum and is separated only by a stretch of river from the Zambezi National Park. Each of the island’s chalets is raised on a wooden deck built artistically around the existing trees, and they are all completely open to the river with spectacular private views (curtains drop down at night). Each guest can plan a completely private itinerary, and every need is anticipated. Two honeymoon chalets also have bathtubs. There’s absolutely no electricity on the island, but it’s barely noticeable. If your party takes Sindabezi exclusively, the guide, boat, and land vehicle are at your disposal. Dinner is served by lantern and candlelight on a sandbank or wooden deck under the stars. Pros: lovely views of the national park on the Zimbabwean side from parts of the island; if you’re lucky, elephants might swim across the Zambezi and graze a few meters from your bed. Cons: it’s very open, so if you are a bit nervous in the African bush, this might not suit you. | Rooms from: $1030 | About 19 km (12 miles) upstream from Victoria Falls, on Zambezi River | 213/32-7450, 213/32-7468 | www.tongabezi.com | 5 chalets | All-inclusive.

Toka Leya Camp.
$$$$ | PERMANENT CAMP | Spread out along the banks of the Zambezi River, the tents are set up on stilts, surrounded by a wooden deck that you can sit on and watch the world and the Zambezi River go by. The word “tent” is used liberally as the accommodation at Toka Leya resembles anything but camping. The 12 well-appointed en-suite safari-style tents (three of which are family units that can sleep four) are remarkably spacious and join up to the main dining, bar, and pool area via a raised gangway, keeping guests out of the way of visiting hippos and elephants. Toka Leya is in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, where a handful of Zambia’s remaining white rhino live. A game drive through the national park is a must. Priding itself on its greenness, the camp has gained a reputation for having incorporated several eco systems, including the replanting of indigenous trees, a gray-water set-up, and a thriving worm farm for composting. There’s great fishing on the river and you can arrange for a guide to take you out on a fully-equipped boat so you can try your luck at landing a tiger fish. Pros: the camp is close to Livingstone and all of the activities offered in the area; there’s a small spa on the banks of the river. Cons: the decor makes it feel a bit like a hotel as opposed to a camp in the middle of the bush. | Rooms from: $1240 | On the Zambezi River, 12 km (7.5 miles) upstream from Victoria Falls | Livingstone,Zambia | 27-11/807-1800 in South Africa, 27-21/702-7500 in South Africa | www.wilderness-safaris.com | 12 tent suites | All-inclusive.

Fodor’s Choice | Tongabezi Lodge.
$$$$ | LUXURY LODGE | If you’re looking for a truly African experience, Tongabezi Lodge won’t disappoint. Never formal, flagrantly romantic, this lodge is designed to complement and frame the Africa you have come to see without ever trying to upstage it. At Tongabezi, standard rooms are spacious cream-and-ocher rondavels (huts) featuring private verandas that can be enclosed in a billowing mosquito net. Three suites are built into a low cliff and incorporate the original riverine forest canopy, one suite hugs the water with a private deck extending over the river, and the Nuthouse breaks with Tongabezi tradition as it’s entirely enclosed and also has an exclusive plunge pool. King-size beds set into tree trunks and covered by curtains of linen netting, oversize sofas in the sitting areas, and large claw-foot bathtubs on the private decks are all unashamedly indulgent. Every room has a local guide who acts as a personal valet and caters to your every whim. Room service is ordered via two-way radios, and the lodge has two masseuses. The lodge offers various meal options, including a romantic candlelit san pan (pontoon boat) floating on the Zambezi with waiters delivering each course by canoe, as well as a number of private decks and the eclectic Lookout. Pros: Tongabezi is the original open-fronted lodge; the property is owner-run, so lots of thought goes into every aspect of your stay; management is extremely environmentally and community aware. Cons: the use of local materials for building and decoration might not meet the standard expectations of guests; individual itineraries are arranged for all guests, making it only possible to interact with other guests should they wish to—of course some might count this as a pro. | Rooms from: $1220 | About 19 km (12 miles) upstream from Victoria Falls, on Zambezi River | 213/32-7468 | www.tongabezi.com | 5 suites, 6 cottages | All-inclusive.

Waterfront.
$ | PERMANENT CAMP | There’s a hive of happy activity here ranging from opportunistic monkeys relieving unsuspecting tourists of their lunch to serious late-night boozing, and in between adventure enthusiasts (hangover optional) are being whisked off to do their thing at all hours of the day. Curiously, the spacious rooms where families can stay are reached only via a steep exterior wooden staircase, but this is also a popular spot for camping—there are campsites accommodating 86 campers The recent addition of a professional chef tasked with updating the general pub fare ($-$$) to a standard that will match the fabulous location is promising. Pros: great location right on the river with beautiful sunsets; many of the adventure activities in the area are managed from the Waterfront, so this is an excellent choice for travelers who like socializing and one-stop convenience. Cons: can be very noisy as it caters to campers; food can be inconsistent. | Rooms from: $200 | Sichango Rd., just off Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd. | 213/32-0606 | www.safpar.net | 23 chalets, 24 tents | Breakfast.

ZAMBIAN SAFARI CIRCUIT

KaingU Safari Lodge.
$$$$ | LUXURY LODGE | KaingU Safari Lodge is a small camp comprised of a family house with two bedrooms and four classic en-suite safari tents. The tents are raised on rosewood decks to provide ideal views over the myriad channels and islands formed by the Kafue River. It’s also very remote—situated in the southern reaches of the Kafue National Park. This combination of intimacy and seclusion lends an undeniable flavor of mystery and discovery to your stay. The thatched boma has a lounge, bar, and dining room, where the hosted dinner conversations cover all topics. Big game is not an everyday occurrence, but the lodge’s guiding team is particularly fine-tuned to the many different wildlife stories constantly unfolding in the bush. Two activities are included every day, and the selection ranges from chilled-out river safaris to serious birding excursions. The natural splendor of deepest Zambia takes precedence—at this camp even the swimming pool is a wholly natural Jacuzzi in the rapids of the Kafue! From each nightly rate, $10 is paid into a registered Community and Conservation Trust. Pros: Africa untouched in all its glory; the owners have a true commitment to environmental and community development. Cons: road transfers from Lusaka take five to six hours but a charter flight to the nearby airstrip is a worthwhile alternative; the area does not have an abundance of big game. | Rooms from: $750 | South Kafue, 400 km north of Victoria Falls | 097/784-1653 | www.kaingu-lodge.com | 1 Family house, 4 luxury tents | No credit cards | All-inclusive.

Fodor’s Choice | Old Mondoro Camp.
$$$$ | PERMANENT CAMP | The legend of a great white-maned lion that used to call this area its home lives on in the name of this camp, which is Shona for the “king of cats.” If you’re looking for an African adventure of the original epic variety and love the opportunity to take lots of pictures, then you need to stay at Old Mondoro. The gin-and-tonics are cold, and the game-viewing sizzles with close-up sightings of elephants, and leopards in trees. Old Mondoro is decorated in old-school-safari style with showers and baths, all lit by romantic lanterns. There are camera-charging and lighting facilities in each room, though. Tents with wide timber verandas are open (with canvas flaps at night) to maximize views of the surrounding floodplains, woodlands, and complex maze of waterways and hippo paths. The smell of fresh homemade bread introduces a back-to-basics bushveld kitchen repertoire that includes generous portions of hearty, flavorful meals. The entire experience manages to be marvelously satisfying without any fuss or complication. This is deliberately not a supercharged, over-the-top new safari palace where the design of the establishment completely usurps the natural environment and all local flavors are lost. Pros: great game drives led by top-notch wildlife guides; one of the best places to see leopards; best walking area in the Lower Zambezi. Cons: the open rooms have only canvas flaps to ward off the wild at night, and this might be too daring for some. | Rooms from: $1590 | Lower Zambezi | Lusaka | Old Mondoro is a 1-hour motorboat ride or a 2-hour game drive from Chiawa Camp. Jeki Airstrip is only a 30-minute game drive away from Old Mondoro and can be reached in a 2-hour flight from Livingstone or a 40-minute flight from Lusaka | 211/261-588 | www.oldmondoro.com | 4 tents | Closed Nov.-May 1 | All-inclusive.

Sausage Tree Camp.
$$$$ | PERMANENT CAMP | There is no formal dress code, but this camp offers the perfect backdrop for throwing practicality to the wind and dressing up for dinner. All the hallmarks of the genuine safari experience including beautiful bush views, great creature sightings, and dining alfresco by lamplight are perfectly balanced by a splendidly chic minimalist design that focuses on space and pure white fabrics. Sausage Tree Camp is a very satisfying and perfectly decadent bush retreat. Sumptuous fabrics by night and lion from canoe by day. Simply bliss! TIP The closest airstrip is Jeki, and this is two hours from Livingstone and 40 minutes from Lusaka in a small aircraft. Sausage Tree Camp is a one-hour drive from Jeki. Pros: gorgeous food and the services of a private muchinda (butler) to attend to every detail of your stay; the complimentary Mohini body-care products are infused with perfectly balanced Ayurvedic herbs. Cons: its remote location makes it very expensive and time-consuming to reach; if you don’t like small aircraft transfers, avoid coming here. | Rooms from: $1790 | Lower Zambezi National Park | 211/84-5204 | www.sausagetreecamp.com | 5 tents, 3 suites | Closed Nov. 20-April. | All-inclusive.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

Livingstone can compete with the best as far as indulging the wildest fantasies of adrenaline junkies and outdoor enthusiasts goes. You can reserve activities directly with the operators, let your hotel or lodge handle it, or book through a central booking agent.

Backpackers Bazaar.
Backpackers Bazaar offers rafting, riverboarding, kayaking, canoeing, wine drift (you don’t do any work except empty the cooler box on the canoe!), flight of the angels (a helicopter or microlight ride over Victoria Falls), sunset cruise, bungee jumping, horseback safari, elephant-back safaris, lion walks, game drives on the Zimbabwe side of the Falls, and day trips to Chobe. If your time is limited or you just want to go wild request prices for activity combinations. | Shop 5, Old Bata Building, Vic Falls Centre, Parkway | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 13/4-5828 | www.shoestringsvicfalls.com.

Bushtracks.
This operator runs one-day excursions to Botswana’s Chobe National Park. The trip costs US$194 and includes transfers from Livingstone, a morning boat cruise, lunch with a drink, and an afternoon game drive. Bushtracks is also your best bet for a visit to the Mukuni Village (US$42). Reservations must be in writing and prepaid for both. | 213/32-3232, 27-11/469-0484 in Johannesburg | www.gotothevictoriafalls.com.

Safari Par Excellence.
Safari Par Excellence offers elephant-back safaris, game drives, river cruises, canoeing, and rafting as well as trip combinations, which are a good option if your time is limited or you just want to go wild. Discounted prices for combinations are available. | 213/32-0606 | www.safpar.net.

BOATING

African Queen.
Truly the monarch of the river, the African Queen —no relation to the movie—is an elegant colonial-style riverboat. Sunset cruises offer the maximum style and splendor. Costs start at US$60 for a two-hour sunset cruise. | 213/32-0058 | reservations@livingstonesadventure.com.

BUNGEE JUMPING

Zambezi Adrenaline Company.
Bungee jumping off the 346-foot-high Victoria Falls Bridge with Zambezi Adrenaline Company is a major adrenaline rush, with 65 feet and three seconds of free fall and a pretty spectacular view. The jump costs from US$125, but it’s also worth getting the photo and video (US$50), complete with Top Gun music track. | 213/32-4231 | info@victoriafallsbungee.com | www.victoriafallsbungee.com.

CANOEING

A gentle canoeing trip on the upper Zambezi is a great opportunity to see birds and a variety of game. Many of the lodges upriver have canoeing as an inclusive activity, but trips are also run by a number of companies, which are all reputable.

Bundu Adventures.
Bundu Adventures offers custom-made canoe trips that range from half-day outings to multiday excursions, with costs starting at US$100. | 213/32-4407 | www.bunduadventures.com.

ELEPHANT-BACK RIDING

Elephant-Back Safaris.
Fancy the idea of meandering through the bush along the shores of the Zambezi courtesy of your own ellie? Very lucky clients might even have the opportunity to ride through the river! Not only does this operation keep clients happy enough to forget their sore thighs the next day, it also has the elephants happy enough to keep having babies! | www.safpar.net.

Safari Par Excellence. Trips with Safari Par Excellence cost US$170 for a ride. | 213/32-0606 | www.safpar.net

FLYING

Batoka Sky.
Batoka Sky offers weight-shift Aerotrike twin-axis microlighting (flying jargon for what resembles a motorized hang glider) and helicopter flights over the Falls and through the gorges. There’s a minimum of two passengers for helicopters. You are issued a flight suit (padded in winter) and a helmet with a headset, before you board the microlight, but you may not bring a camera for safety reasons. Batoka Sky has been operating since 1992, and has a 100% microlighting safety record. Flights are booked for early morning and late afternoon and are dependent on the weather. Prices are US$140-US$280, depending on length of flight and aircraft. Your transfer and a day visa, if you are coming from Victoria Falls, are included. The Helicopter Gorge picnic (US$385) includes lunch and drinks for a minimum of six people. | 213/32-0058 | www.livingstonesadventure.com.

HORSEBACK RIDING

Chundukwa Adventure Trails.
You can take a placid horseback ride through the bush along the banks of the Zambezi with Chundukwa Adventure Trails. If you are comfortable enough to keep your cool while riding through the African hinterland, you may want to book a horseback bush trail. Cost is U$62 for 1½ hours; US$96 for a half day (7:30 am-noon). | 213/32-7064 | chundukwahorse@microlink.zm.

JETBOATING

Jet Extreme.
If you want some thrills and speed but rafting seems a bit daunting, or you can’t face the walk in and out, you’ll probably enjoy jetboating with Jet Extreme. A new cable-car ride, included in the cost of the jetboat ride (US$100 for 30 minutes), means no more strenuous walking out of the gorge. Jetboating can be combined with a rafting excursion, as the jetboat starts at the end of the rafting run, or with a helicopter trip out of the gorge. TIP The rafting and helicopter must be booked separately, although big operators like Safari Par Excellence and Livingstone’s Adventure offer combinations. Children over seven can jetboat if they are accompanied by an adult. | 213/32-1375 | www.livingstonesadventure.com.

RAFTING AND RIVERBOARDING

Safari Par Excellence.
Safari Par Excellence offers rafting excursions to Batoka Gorge that cost US$140 for a morning trip or US$160 for a full-day trip. The cable car transports rafters out of the gorge, so you only have to climb down. You can also do a combination helicopter-and-rafting trip. Bring secure shoes, dry clothes for the long drive home, a baseball cap to wear under your helmet, and plenty of sunscreen. You can also decide to try riverboarding (from US$170), in which you hop off the raft onto a body board and surf suitable rapids. | 213/32-0606 | www.safpar.net.

RAPPELLING AND SWINGING

Abseil Zambia.
For something completely different, Abseil Zambia has taken some specially designed heavy-duty steel cables, combined them with various pulleys and rigs, one dry gorge, and a 100% safety record to entertain both the fainthearted and the daring. The full day (ZK650,000) is a great value, as it includes lunch, refreshments, and as many repeats of the activities as you like. TIP Keep in mind that you will have to climb out after the gorge swing and the rappel. A half day (ZK500,000) is advised during the hot months of October-December. Work up an appetite for more daring drops by starting on the zip line (or flying fox). You run off a ramp while attached to the line, and the sensation is pure freedom and surprisingly unscary, as you are not moving up or down. Next rappel down into the 175-foot gorge, and, after you climb out, try it again facing forward. It’s called a rap run. You’re literally walking down the cliff face. End the day with the king of adrenaline activities, a whopping 175-foot, 3½-second vertical free-fall swing into the gorge (ZK350,000 for one swing). Three-two-one—hoooo-ha! | 213/32-1188 | theswing@zamnet.zm | www.thezambeziswing.com.

SHOPPING

Kubu Crafts.
This stylish home-decor shop features locally made furniture in hardwood and wrought iron. There’s also a selection of West African masks and weavings and the work of numerous local artists. Local curios are attractively displayed and screened for quality. Kubu Crafts also provides both fair employment and training opportunities for the community. | Mosi-oa-Tunya Square | 213/32-0230 | www.kubucrafts.com.

Mukuni Park Market.
Although the park at the entrance to the Falls has stalls where you can find stone and wood carvings and simple bead and semiprecious-stone jewelry, the real gem of an African bazaar lies in the center of town, at Mukuni Park Market. TIP This is the place to try your hand at bargaining. You’ll be quoted top dollar initially, but shop around. Look out for individual and unusual pieces, as it is occasionally possible to find valuable antiques. The market is open daily approximately 7-6. | Mosi-oa-Tunya Rd. and Libala Dr.

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Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

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Planning | Exploring | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Sports and the Outdoors

Victoria Falls started with a little curio shop and slowly expanded until the 1970s, when it became the mecca around which the tourist phenomenon of Victoria Falls pivoted. The political problems following independence have been well documented in the world press and have certainly taken their toll.

There has been significant poaching in Zambezi National Park to the northwest. (If you really want to have the African game experience, take a day trip to Chobe National Park, only 70 km [44 miles] away in Botswana.) The country is currently regaining political stability, and the town of Victoria Falls enjoys the happy coincidence of being a curio shopper’s paradise inside a national park. This means you can literally buy an elephant carving while watching the real McCoy march past the shop window. The town is extremely compact. Almost all the hotels are within walking distance, and the Falls itself is only 10 minutes away on foot. The main road that runs through town and goes to the Falls in one direction and to the airport in the other is called Livingstone Way. Park Way is perpendicular. Most of the shops, banks, and booking agents can be found on these two streets, and this part of town is also where most of the hawkers operate. TIP Give these vendors a clear berth, as their wares are cheap for a reason (the boat cruise is substandard, it’s illegal to change money, etc.).

Spectacular wilderness, perfect year-round climate, Zimbabwe ranks as one of the most beautiful countries in southern Africa. More than 400 species of wildlife roam the savannas of Hwange National Park. Ancestral rock paintings of ancient San Bushmen mesmerize in the Matobo Hills. Flowing from the Zambezi are the thundering waters of Victoria Falls, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. From the mighty river derives the Mana Pools National Park, a must-see UNESCO World Heritage Site and stunning animal sanctuary.


Fast Facts

Size 390,757 square km (150,872 square miles).

Number of National Parks 10. Hwange National Park; Victoria Falls National Park; Gonarezhou National Park are the most visited.

Population 11.6 million.

Big Five The gang’s all here.

Language Zimbabwe has three official languages: English, Shona, and Ndebele. Although the number of native English speakers is small, English is widely understood and used.

Time Zimbabwe is on CAST (Central African standard time), which is two hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time and seven hours ahead of North American Eastern Standard Time. It’s the same as South Africa.


PLANNING

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Tourists are slowly returning to Victoria Falls. If you choose to fly in and out of Victoria Falls Airport, most hotels will provide free shuttle service; book in advance.

Hotels can summon reputable taxis quickly and advise you on the cost. Tipping isn’t mandatory, but change is always appreciated.

Airlines
Air Zimbabwe. | 013/4-4316 | www.airzimbabwe.aero.
Comair/British Airways. | 013/4-2053, 013/4-2388 | www.british-airways.com.
South African Airways. | 27-11/978-5313 in South Africa | www.flysaa.com.

Airport
Victoria Falls Airport. | Livingstone Way, | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4428.

ESSENTIALS

Money Matters

Zimbabwe’s currency used to be the Zimbabwe dollar, but now foreign currency is the only acceptable method of payment. Carry U.S. dollars in small denominations and stick to U.S. dollars for all activity payments to Zimbabwe-based operators (all activities are quoted in U.S. dollars). Credit card facilities aren’t readily available and MasterCard can only be used across the border in Zambia. (You’ll also find Western Union banks in Victoria Falls and Livingstone, should you need to do cash transfers.)

Passports and Visas

It’s possible to buy point-of-entry visas for Zimbabwe for US$30 for a single entry. If you leave Zimbabwe for more than 24 hours, you’ll need to buy another to reenter (unless you bought a double-entry visa for US$45). Visas can be purchased from a Zimbabwean embassy before departure (application for multiple-entry visas can only be lodged here), but it’ll almost certainly be more trouble and generally cost more than buying them at the border.

Safety and Precautions

The political situation in Zimbabwe is currently fairly stable, but the damage from the lengthy dictatorship and internal strife is still very apparent. Prices have stabilized and basic goods have reappeared on the shelves, but the tourist capital of Victoria Falls has by no means regained its status as a prime international destination. All the activities, shopping, and dining options on offer on the Zimbabwean side can also be enjoyed across the border in Zambia—without any of the uncertainty and potential for sudden political and economical upheavals that could result in cancellations or threats to visitors’ safety. TIP The Victoria Falls town and tourism industry has managed to build itself up in a remarkably short time. The political situation is still not 100% resolved, but for now, Zimbabwean lodges offer good value and service.

MARS (Medical Air Rescue Services) is on standby for all emergencies. Dr. Nyoni is a trauma specialist and operates a hospital opposite the Shoestring Lodge. Go to Victoria Falls Pharmacy for prescriptions.

Male homosexuality is illegal in Zimbabwe—female homosexuality isn’t mentioned in law—and same-sex relationships receive no recognition. Attitudes are improving, but it’s advisable to be extremely circumspect.

It’s always a good idea to leave ample space in your luggage for common sense when traveling to Victoria Falls. Wild animals abound throughout this area (even in the center of town) and must be given a lot of physical space and respect. You must also remember that Zimbabwe is relatively poor. There are tourism police, but opportunistic thieving still happens occasionally. Although crime in this area is generally nonviolent, losing your money, belongings, or passport will result in spending the remainder of your trip with various officials in stuffy, badly decorated offices instead of sitting back on the deck of your sunset cruise with drink in hand.

As for the water, it’s always advisable to drink bottled water. Should you develop any stomach upset, be sure to contact a physician, especially if you’re running a fever, in order to rule out malaria or a communicable disease. Do remember to mention your visit to a malaria area to your doctor in the event of illness within a year of leaving Africa.

Embassies
U.S. Embassy. | 172 Herbert Chitepo Ave., Box 4010, | Harare, Zimbabwe | 04/25-0593 | harare.usembassy.gov.

Emergency Services
MARS. | West Dr., opposite Shoestring, | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4646 | www.mars.co.zw.
Police. | 013/4-4206, 013/4-4681.

Telephone

The country code for Zimbabwe is 263. When dialing from abroad, drop the initial 0 from local area codes. Ask a hotel or restaurant manager for exact telephone numbers and costs, should you wish to make any telephone calls from within Zimbabwe.

ABOUT THE RESTAURANTS

In Zimbabwe, game meat can be found on almost any menu, but it’s something of a delicacy in Zambia; superior free-range beef and chicken are available everywhere. The local bream, filleted or whole, is excellent, and the staple starch, a thick porridge similar to polenta—sadza in Zimbabwe and nsima in Zambia—is worth a try; use your fingers to eat it (you’ll be given a bowl for washing afterward). Adventurous? Try macimbi or vinkuvala (sun-dried mopane worms) or inswa (flash-fried flying ants) during the flood season.

Meals are taken at regular hours, but during the week, restaurants close around 10. Dress is casual, but Africa easily lends itself to a little bling, and you’ll never be out of place in something more glamorous.

ABOUT THE LODGINGS

It’s advisable to make both flight and lodge reservations ahead of time. Lodges tend to have all-inclusive packages; hotels generally include breakfast only. All hotels and lodges quote in U.S. dollars but accept payment in other major currencies at unfriendly exchange rates. It might be best to take an all-inclusive package tour because meals can be exorbitantly expensive. A 10% service charge is either included or added to the bill (as is the value-added tax) in both countries, which frees you to include an extra tip only for exceptional service. Although air-conditioning can be expected in the hotels, lodges tend to have fans. TIP Travel with a sarong (locally available as a chitenge), which you can wet and wrap around your body, guaranteeing a cooler siesta.

HOTEL AND RESTAURANT PRICES

Prices in the restaurant reviews are the average cost of a main course at dinner or, if dinner isn’t served, at lunch; taxes and service charges are generally included. Prices in the lodging reviews are the lowest cost of a standard double room in high season, excluding taxes, service charges, and meal plans (except at all-inclusives). Prices for rentals are the lowest per-night cost for a one-bedroom unit in high season.

VISITOR INFORMATION

The Victoria Falls Publicity Association is fairly well stocked with brochures. It’s open weekdays 8-1 and 2-4 and Saturday 8-1. You could also choose to seek advice from one of the many safari companies in town.

Visitor Info
Victoria Falls Publicity Association. | 412 Park Way, | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4202 | vfpa@mweb.co.zw.

Victoria Falls

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EXPLORING

Victoria Falls.
The first European to set eyes on the Falls was the Scots explorer and missionary Dr. David Livingstone in the mid-1850s. Overcome by the experience he named them after the English queen, Victoria.

On a clear day the spray generated by the Falls is visible from 50 km (31 miles) away—the swirling mist rising above the woodland savanna looks like smoke from a bush fire, inspiring their local name, Mosi-Oa-Tunya, or the “Smoke that Thunders.” The rim of the Falls is broken into separate smaller falls with names like the Devil’s Cataract, Rainbow Falls, Horseshoe Falls, and Armchair Falls.

The Falls, which are more than 300 feet high, are one of the world’s seven natural wonders and were named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1989. Upon seeing Victoria Falls for the first time Dr. David Livingstone proclaimed, “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” Truer words were never spoken.

A basaltic plateau once stood where the Falls are today. The whole area was once completely submerged, but fast-forward to the Jurassic Age and the water eventually dried up. Only the Zambezi River remained flowing down into the gaping 1.6-km-long (1-mile) continuous gorge that was formed by the uneven cracking of the drying plateau.

The Falls are spectacular at any time, but if you want to see them full, visit during the high water season (April-June) when more than 2 million gallons hurtle over the edge every second. The resulting spray is so dense that, at times, the view can be obscured. Don’t worry though, the frequent gusts of wind will soon come to your aid and your view will be restored. If you’re lucky to be there during a full moon, you might be able to catch a moonbow or lunar rainbow (a nighttime version of a rainbow) in the spray.

Sorry, Zambia, but the view from your side just doesn’t stack up to the view from the Zimbabwean side. Only on the Zim side do you see infamous Devil’s Cataract racing through the gorge, the entire width of the world’s most spectacular waterfall, and the most rainbows dancing over the rapids. Both countries have commissioned a statue in remembrance of Dr. Livingstone’s first sight of the Falls. You’ll also get to walk through the glorious rain forest that borders the cliff edges, where wild flowers glow from greenery and monkeys chatter in ancient trees. This is also where accessible, flat-stone pathways—found immediately after you pass through the Zimbabwe entrance to the Falls—will take even the most unfit, tottery, or wheelchair-bound visitor right up to all the viewpoints. You don’t need a map or a guide, as each path to the viewpoints is clearly marked.

On the Zambian side it is possible to cross the Knife Edge bridge to the very middle of the Gorge, and during low water guests can swim in the Devil’s Pool on Livingstone Island. The Zambian side has many levels and steps making it practically inaccessible for anyone in a wheelchair.

Built in 1905, Victoria Falls Bridge is a monument to explorer, adventurer, empire-builder and former South African Prime Minister Cecil Rhodes and his dream of creating a Cape-to-Cairo railway. Though the line was never completed, steam-powered trains still chug over the bridge, re-creating a sight seen here for over a century. From the bridge you get a knockout view of the Falls, as well as the Zambezi River raging through Batoka Gorge. An added bonus: watching adrenaline junkies hurl themselves off the 364-foot-high Victoria Falls Bridge.

Victoria Falls is renowned for the plethora of adventure activities that can be organized on either side. It’s best to arrange activities through your hotel or a safari adventure shop, but if you want to go it alone, know that some operators serve only one side of the Falls, and operators have a tendency to come and go quickly. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe.

Victoria Falls Bridge.
A veritable monument to Cecil Rhodes’s dream of completing a Cape-to-Cairo rail line, this graceful structure spans the gorge formed by the Zambezi River. It would have been far easier and less expensive to build the bridge upstream from the Falls, but Rhodes was captivated by the romance of a railway bridge passing over this natural wonder. A net was stretched across the gorge under the construction site, which curiously prompted the construction workers to go on strike for a couple of days. They resumed work only when it was explained that they would not be expected to leap into it at the end of every workday. Although the workers did not share the current adrenaline-fueled obsession with jumping into the abyss, the net probably had a lot to do with the miraculous fact that only two people were killed during construction. The bridge was completed in only 14 months, and the last two cross-girders were defiantly joined on April 1, 1905.

To get onto the bridge, you first have to pass through Zimbabwean immigration and customs controls, so bring your passport. Unless you decide to cross into Zambia, no visa is necessary.

Depending on crowds, the simple procedure can take from five minutes to a half hour. The border posts are open daily from 6 am to 10 pm, after which the bridge is closed to all traffic. From the bridge you are treated to a fabulous view of the river raging through Batoka Gorge, as well as a section of the Falls on the Zambian side. An added bonus is watching the bungee jumpers disappear over the edge. | Livingstone Way | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe.

Victoria Falls National Park.
Plan to spend at least two hours soaking in the splendors of this park. Bring snacks and water, and supervise children extremely well, as the barriers are by no means safe. Babies and toddlers can be pushed in a stroller. If you visit the Falls during the high-water peak, between April and June, you’d do well to carry a raincoat or umbrella (you can rent them at the entrance) and to bring along a waterproof, disposable camera because you will be drenched in the spray from the Falls, which creates a permanent downpour. Be prepared for limited photo opportunities due to the mist. TIP Leave expensive cameras, cell phones, and wristwatches in your hotel or lodge safe.

The constant drizzle has created a small rain forest that extends in a narrow band along the edge of the Falls. A trail running through this dripping green world is overgrown with African ebony, Cape fig, Natal mahogany, wild date palms, ferns, and deep-red flame lilies. A fence has been erected to keep non-fee-paying visitors at bay. Clearly signposted side trails lead to viewpoints overlooking the Falls. The most spectacular is Danger Point, a perilous rock outcropping that overlooks the narrow gorge through which the Zambezi River funnels out of the Boiling Pot, but be careful, as this viewpoint is hazardously wet and precarious. In low-water months (September-November) most of the water goes over the Falls through the Devil’s Cataract, a narrow and mesmerizingly powerful section of the Falls visible from Livingstone’s statue. Around the full moon the park stays open late so you can see the lunar rainbow formed by the spray—a hauntingly beautiful sight. Early morning and late afternoon are popular visiting times, as you can see the daylight rainbows most vividly then. A booklet explaining the formation and layout of the Falls is available from the Victoria Falls Publicity Association for a small fee. | Off Livingstone Way | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | US$30 | Daily 6-6; open later around full moon.

WHERE TO EAT

At the peak of Zimbabwe’s political problems, shortages of even the most basic foods, like vegetables, were an everyday occurrence. Since the adoption of the USD as the official currency, however, hotels and restaurants have been able to restore some sanity, and in a very short time, have been able to reestablish world-class hospitality.

IN THE SAFARI CAMPS

Makuwa Kuwa.
$$ | AFRICAN | Perched above a big watering hole at the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, a spectacular view awaits diners at this memorable dining spot. On offer at breakfast is a combination of both cold and hot dishes; dinnertime guests are treated to the local acappella performers. The à la carte supper menu has local and international fare with dishes such as grilled fresh bream (recommended) and, if you aren’t too squeamish, crocodile simmered in red curry. | Average main: $15 | Victoria Falls Safari Lodge,471 Squire Cummings Rd. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-3211 | www.africaalbidatourism.com | Reservations essential Jacket required.

The Palm Restaurant.
$$$ | AFRICAN | With tables flowing out onto the deep veranda of Ilala Lodge, the Palm has old-world grandeur with delicious modern cuisine. Lunches are light, including daring crocodile kebabs and the more familiar toasted panini sandwiches with french fries. Dinner is a more formal affair with familiar and exotic dishes. TIP Reservations aren’t necessary but advisable for dinner. From the outside tables you can see and hear the tumbling waters of the Falls. | Average main: $23 | Ilala Lodge,411 Livingstone Way | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4737, 013/4-4739 | www.ilalalodge.com.

Fodor’s Choice | Stanley’s Terrace.
$$$ | MODERN BRITISH | A trip to Victoria Falls isn’t complete without high tea (3-6 pm) on the Victoria Falls Hotel’s terrace. A multilayered cake stand filled with an array of delicious treats, including cakes, tarts, and sandwiches, is served with a pot of tea or coffee. TIP Don’t have a big lunch beforehand! The hotel is very grand, and although the furnishings are a little tired, the view out over the gorge and onto the bridge and Falls is unforgettable. Also at the hotel is the more formal Livingstone Room Restaurant where you can make a reservation for their seven-course degustation meal ($$$). | Average main: $30 | The Victoria Falls Hotel,2 Mallet Dr. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4751 | www.victoria-falls-hotels.net | Reservations essential.

IN TOWN

The Africa Cafe.
$ | CAFÉ | Find refuge on a hot day at the Africa Cafe in the Elephant’s Walk Shopping and Artist’s Village. The chef creates simple, delicious food, using ingredients freshly picked from the Happy Hippo Organic Herb and Veggie Garden, found just behind the restaurant. Dishes are varied—from crisp organic salads to buffalo burgers to warthog ciabatta—and inspired by the fresh produce of the day with the influence of local Zimbabwean specialties. Elephant’s Walk is set in a lush garden shopping center where you’ll find local craft and design, with artists working in situ. At dinnertime group bookings are by reservation only. | Average main: $9 | Adam Stander Rd. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-2300 | www.elephantswalk.com | Reservations essential.

Lola’s Tapas and Bar.
$$ | TAPAS | One of the town’s new restaurants, Lola’s offers authentic Spanish flair in its cuisine and decor. Choose from the tapas menu or dine à la carte. If you can’t get enough, it’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. TIP Bookings aren’t essential but advisable for larger groups, especially for dinner during the busy season. Lola’s is open until the last drum beat from the group of musicians who provide entertainment on occasion. The food is tasty and reasonably priced. | Average main: $12 | 8 Landela Complex,Livingstone Way, in the tourist center | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-2994 | No credit cards.

Mama Africa Eating House.
$$ | AFRICAN | This a good local food experience as the menu offers typical Zimbabwean dishes along with other African food and the atmosphere is celebratory. Tuesday and Friday nights are “Africa Nights” with a buffet dinner and live music from the local jazz band. There’s a good selection of vegetarian and meat dishes, too; the Mama Africa Hot Pots are especially popular. There’s a biltong (jerky) and peanut butter stew, chicken with peanut butter (huku nedove), and the Hunter’s Hot Pot, which is the “catch of the day” game dish. All dishes are accompanied by either sadza (cooked cornmeal, a Zimbabwean staple) or rice. TIP The chef prepares several dishes with peanuts, so if you have a severe allergy, it might be best to just enjoy the music and the atmosphere! It’s advisable to make a reservation, especially for large groups and the Africa Nights. | Average main: $16 | Landela Complex,Matcalfe Road | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-1725 | www.mamaafricaeatinghouse.com | Reservations essential.

WHERE TO STAY

With the introduction of the U.S. dollar as the official currency, there’s no longer the rocketing inflation. However, an all-inclusive package tour is still a good bet in this area. Electricity and voltage are the same in Zimbabwe and South Africa.

Fodor’s Choice | The Elephant Camp.
$$$$ | PERMANENT CAMP | From the deck of your luxurious tented suite, you gaze out across the bush and down to the Batoka Gorge and the “smoke” rising up from the Victoria Falls, just 10 km (6 miles) away. Each suite has an indoor and outdoor shower, a big bath, and an intimate lounge with a mini bar so you can enjoy a drink while you admire the view from your deck. Dinner is in the main lodge’s dining room with the other guests; it’s a fairly relaxed affair with delicious food. Don’t be surprised if you’re asked to be the guinea pigs for a new mouth-watering dish the chef is trying out. Breakfast and lunch are taken out on the deck that overlooks a water hole popular with buck and elephants. Three minutes’ drive from the lodge is where the elephant ride begins. Even if you don’t feel like hopping on board one of these magnificent animals, guests of the camp can pop down and interact with them once they’re back from their outing. The beauty of Elephant Camp is its simplicity, the wonderful attention to detail, and the staff who work there. This is the perfect place to relax, socialize, and take in Victoria Falls in its entirety. Pros: every suite has a plunge pool that’s most welcoming in the summer months, although if you’re feeling more social, the main lodge has a big pool, too. Cons: even though it’s in the middle of a national game park, you’ll be disappointed if you’re there to see a variety of game. | Rooms from: $800 | 10 km (6 mi) outside of Victoria Falls, on Livingstone Way (road to the airport) | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4571 | www.wildhorizons.co.za | 12 tented suites | All-inclusive.

Ilala Lodge.
$$ | LUXURY LODGE | The lodge’s elegant interior design is tempered with thatch roofs, giving it a graceful African look. Dining outside under the night sky at the award-winning Palm Restaurant ($$$), with the Falls thundering 300 feet away, is a particularly enticing way to while away a Zimbabwean evening. The Palm also serves a great terrace lunch overlooking the bush. Guest rooms are hung with African paintings and tapestries and filled with delicately caned chairs and tables and with dressers made from old railroad sleepers. French doors open onto a narrow strip of lawn backed by thick bush. Unlike most hotels in town, Ilala Lodge has no fence around it, so at night it’s not uncommon to find elephants browsing outside your window or buffalo grazing on the lawn. Pros: great central location; family-friendly; only 10 minutes from the Falls by foot. Cons: the location in town can ruin expectations if you are keen on the peace of the African bush; the noise from the helicopters can be disturbing. | Rooms from: $320 | 411 Livingstone Way | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4737 | www.ilalalodge.com | 32 rooms, 2 suites | Breakfast.

Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge.
$$$ | LUXURY LODGE | Imbabala is a charming lodge an hour’s drive from Victoria Falls Airport, set about a hundred meters from the river’s edge, close to where Zimbabwe, Namibia, Botswana, and Zambia converge. It’s comfortable and laid-back and is one of the few “original” Zambezi River lodges that hasn’t lost its authenticity. At the center of the lodge is a magnificent teak tree under which, weather permitting, all meals are served. (There’s a thatch-roof dining and bar area that comes in handy in the rainy season.) Fanning out above that are the eight comfortably appointed en-suite rondavels. It’s a good place to bring children over seven as there’s space to roam and the staff organize fun activities for them, on request. Bear in mind that the lodge is unfenced and in a park where animals are free to roam—a resident herd of impala sleeps just in front of the rondavels. Game drives, river safaris, and night drives are all part and parcel of the Imbabala package. You can also arrange, in advance, fishing expeditions and guided walks. Birders will revel in the bird life on this part of the river, which is spectacular. Pros: authentic Zambezi River and bush experience. Cons: the chalets all look out onto the main lawn, so other guests walk past the front of them; the lodge isn’t far from Kazungula and the noise from the late-night revelers on the Zambian side can detract a little from the experience…unless it’s your kind of music. | Rooms from: $550 | Kazungula Rd., 70 km (43 mi)from Victoria Falls | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4571 | www.imbabalazambezisafarilodge.com | 8 rondavels | All-inclusive.

Fodor’s Choice | Stanley and Livingstone at Victoria Falls.
$$$ | LUXURY LODGE | It’s almost surreal to step from the surrounding bushveld into the meticulously composed rooms of this small hotel, which is set on a 6,000-acre private game reserve. Public rooms are luxuriously furnished in colonial style with some spectacular antiques and have verandas overlooking a water hole where elephants and other animals come to drink. The suites are large with Victorian flourishes, dark wood furnishings, wall-to-wall carpeting, heavy drapes, and an expensive chocolate on your pillow at night. The bathrooms are a calming study in white tile, green marble, and gold trim. Service is personal but slightly more casual than the decor would lead you to expect. The rate includes breakfast and the use of the three scheduled daily transers into town. Pros: rooms have air-conditioning; 10 minutes outside town; unbelievably over-the-top and decadently indulgent decor. Cons: the design of this lodge owes very little to Africa, and once you close your door you could very well be almost anywhere in Europe; you might find yourself wanting to use words like “mahvelous” a lot! | Rooms from: $600 | Off Ursula Rd., 13 km (8 miles) south of Victoria Falls | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-1005 | 013/4-1009 | www.stanleyandlivingstone.com | 16 suites | Breakfast.

Victoria Falls Hotel.
$$ | HOTEL | Hotels come and go, but this landmark built in 1904 has retained its former glory as a distant, stylish outpost in empire days, while pandering to today’s modern tastes, needs, and wants. Such grandeur can be a little overwhelming, and especially surprising if you’ve just been on safari. The hotel’s manicured lawns have sweeping views of the bridge and gorge, and soothing sounds permeate the gardens (and the rooms if you leave the windows open). Cool cream walls form the backdrop for elegant mahogany and wicker furniture. In the bathroom an old-fashioned drench shower will wash away the most stubborn African dust. Halls are filled with sepia-tone photos from throughout the hotel’s history and animal trophies so old they are going bald. After checking your email in the E-Lounge and visiting the salon, you can dine and dance at the elegant Livingstone Room ($$$$). Two far less formal restaurants include the Terrace ($-$$), with an à la carte menu, daily high tea, and a beautiful view of the bridge; and Jungle Junction (US$35), which has a huge barbecue buffet and traditional dancers. Pros: one of the very best views of the Falls—it does not come closer than this! Cons: hotel is slightly run down following the Zimbabwean political crises. | Rooms from: $360 | 2 Mallet Dr. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4751 | www.africansunhotels.com | 161 rooms | Breakfast.

Fodor’s Choice | Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
$$ | LUXURY LODGE | The lodge’s location is atop a natural plateau that perfectly frames the African sunset against a private water hole frequented by various game throughout the entire year. It features elegant luxury, award-winning architecture, and every imaginable convenience, while succeeding in instilling a sense of respect and care for wildlife and the environment in every guest. This hotel has been winning awards for environmental consciousness and social responsibility since its inception in 1993. The lodge maintains a strict natural vegetation policy—95% of all plants are indigenous species and new trees are planted annually—and electricity and water are conserved aggressively through use of gray water for plants. The lodge also takes responsibility for keeping Victoria Falls clean and helped set up the Vic Falls Anti-Poaching Unit, which it continues to support administratively and financially. The Boma (part of the complex) is one of the premier ethnic restaurants in Africa. Pros: fabulous architecture; convenient location; great African sunsets are guaranteed. Cons: can get quite busy. | Rooms from: $370 | 471 Squire Cummings Rd. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-3211 | www.victoria-falls-safari-lodge.com | 72 rooms | Breakfast.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS

The town of Victoria Falls was the epicenter of extreme adventures for many years. But at the peak of Zimbabwe’s civil unrest, many of the adventure operators either closed down or moved to the Zambian side. Livingstone took over as the gateway to the Victoria Falls, the Zambezi River, and all the activities associated with them. Over the last few years, however, the Zimbabwean side has made a remarkable comeback, with companies such as Adventure Zone, Wild Horizons, and the original Shearwater offering all manner of thrills.

Adventure Zone.
This is a one-stop booking agent for bungee jumping, upper Zambezi River canoeing, white-water rafting, Victoria Falls Bridge tour, transfers, and many other activities Victoria Falls has to offer. | Shop No. 4, Phumula Centre | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4424 | www.adventurezonevicfalls.com.

Shearwater.
One of the oldest operating companies in Victoria Falls (thrill seeking since 1982) and unique in that it owns and operates the majority of activities available in Victoria Falls, Shearwater can put you in a helicopter or raft, or on an elephant or boat cruise. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4471 | www.shearwatervictoriafalls.com.

Wild Horizons.
Need to get around? Wild Horizons runs transfers in and around Victoria Falls, Livingstone, and Chobe, including airport pickups and drop-offs. They also do multi-day tours and cross-border transfers between Zambia, Zimbabwe, and Botswana. | Victoria Falls,Zimbabwe | 013/4-4571 | www.wildhorizons.co.za.

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