Cultivating Carnivorous Plants (2015)

DROSERA

Drosera regia with prey.12

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The genus Drosera must be the most

diverse of all the genera that comprise the

carnivorous plants. Sticky-leaved sundews

grow from the edges of the Arctic Circle

to the Equator and south to the Tierra del

Fuego. Some are giants, growing as large

as small shrubs; others are pygmies, only

growing as large as a small coin. Some live

in tropical rainforests while others live in

deserts. There are few places where

sundews cannot be found, and that makes

them perfect for beginners.

Although

incredibly

diverse,

sundews are characterized by leaves

covered in stalked mucilaginous glands,

often called tentacles, that produce a

sticky substance, which binds insects and

other small prey to the leaves. As the prey

struggles, more sticky mucus is produced,

binding the prey tighter. As this occurs,

the plant secretes digestive enzymes

(esterase, peroxidase, phosphatase, and

protease) that dissolve the prey’s soft,

fleshy parts. The resulting “soup” is then

Drosera capensis x spathulata, an easy and popular hybrid.

absorbed by the leaf and used as fertilizer

for the plant.

Unlike Byblis, Drosophyllum, or Roridula, all of which are phonologically similar to Drosera, all species of sundew have tentacles that move in response to contact with prey. This response allows the plant to gradually

move the insect towards the center of the leaf, allowing more tentacles to come in contact with the prey. This

improved contact allows the plant to more effectively digest its prey. Additionally, many species--although

not all--also move their leaves in response to contact with prey. Typically, this results in the leaf slowly

wrapping itself around the prey.

Although diverse, most sundews can be divided into the following horticultural categories:

✵

Temperate: These species require a cold winter dormancy period. In nature, they will often

experience a period of freezing temperatures. In order to survive those cold temperatures, they will

form a tight cluster of unfurled leaves, called a hibernaculum. All of these species are native to areas

that can experience snowfall.

✵

Tropical & Subtropical: These species will continue to grow year-round in cultivation without

needing a dormancy period. In nature, the tropical varieties grow year-round in nearly uniform

climatic conditions, but the subtropical species experience a cool winter.

✵

Highland Tropical: These species will grow year-round in cultivation without needing a dormancy

period. In nature, they grow in highland areas of the tropics, or other areas that experience nearly

uniform climatic conditions, with temperature falls at night and daytime temperatures that remain

cool. These are the species that can be found, e.g. on the Tepuis of Venezuela.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

✵

Pygmy: These miniature species of sundew are mostly native to Australia (one species, Drosera

meristocaulis, is native to South America), and naturally reproduce in two different ways - through

seed and production of gemmae. Gemmae are small "buds" consisting of a plantlet and food

reservoir that appear during the wet season. As rain hits the gemmae, which form around the crown

of the plant, they are hurled from the plant and form new plants.

✵

Tuberous: These Australian species form underground tubers to survive the dry summers of their

habitat.

✵

Petiolaris-Complex: These Australian species are similar to Drosophyllum in that they are well

adapted for living in a dry native habitat. Most have "hairy" petioles that allow the plant to capture

morning fog.

In Cultivation

Given the diverse nature of the horticultural categories of Drosera, the best way to discuss their

cultivation is by discussing each of the horticultural categories individually. This follows:

Temperate Drosera

Drosera rotundifolia in the wild.

The most famous temperate Drosera and, arguably, the most famous Drosera, is Drosera rotundifolia. Native

to the northern hemisphere, this species is one of the most widespread of all the Drosera, and the carnivore

most studied by Charles Darwin and a host of scientists after him. Surprisingly, despite its fame and

widespread distribution, Drosera rotundifolia, like many temperate Drosera, is not as common in cultivation as

some tropical and subtropical species.

With regard to cultivation requirements, temperate Drosera are somewhat more difficult to cultivate than

subtropical Drosera because they require a cold dormancy period of several months. This is not an issue for

growers in colder climates, where growers can leave the plants outside year round and expect that they will

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return in the spring. For growers in warmer

climates, plans must be made regarding how to

chill the plants in winter for several months in

a manner that will not result in fungus

overwhelming the plants and killing them.

Thanks to the fact that many temperate Drosera

form “winter buds” called hibernacula,

oftentimes, growers will have success in

overwintering the plants by placing them in a

refrigerator after dusting them with fungicide.

D. binata - Complex

The unmistakable Forked Sundew,

Drosera binata, is native to Australia, New

Zealand, and Tasmania. As with the Drosera

filiformis Complex, many members of the

Drosera binata Complex are temperate, while

others are subtropical. The major difference

between temperate and subtropical individuals

is that temperate individuals will go dormant in

cool weather, dying down to their roots,

whereas subtropical specimens will continue

growing year round, unless killed back by frost.

As with other “complexes,” Drosera binata

has a number of distinctive forms. The most

common are the ‘T-Form’, which consists of

Drosera binata ‘Extrema’

short (6 inch (15 cm)) single-forked leaves,

‘Extrema’, which consists of medium-height (12 inch (30 cm)) leaves forked up to 40 times, ‘Dichotoma

Giant', which has leaves up to 30 inches (76 cm) forked, usually, less than a half-dozen times, and ‘Marston

Dragon’, a cultivar with leaves up to 12 inches (30 cm) forked twice.

D. filiformis - Complex

The most famous of the “thread-leaf” sundews, Drosera filiformis is

native to several, distinct locations along the east coast of North America.

These locations include, Nova Scotia, Cape Cod, Long Island/New Jersey,

Cape Fear area of North Carolina, and the Panhandle of Florida. The

distribution of Drosera filiformis to these distinct locations is likely due to

migrating birds along the east coast gathering seed from populations in

seed on their muddied feet then flying to a new location. This theory is

supported by the fact that the species has been spontaneously reported in

other locations ( e.g. Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Maryland) where the

species was not previously known. (The two New England locations are

now extinct). It is unclear why the spread of the species to new locations

has not resulted in a continuous distribution throughout its range. Plants Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis

from these locations are known as Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis.

in Massachusetts.

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In Florida, another subspecies

of Drosera filiformis exists. This

subspecies, known as Drosera filiformis

ssp. trayci, has thick green tentacles

and lacks red coloration. It is also

much taller than Drosera filiformis ssp.

filiformis, and is often found growing

alongside Sarracenia leucophylla or in

pure white sands. Although it has

been argued that Drosera filiformis ssp.

trayci is a separate species, there has

not been enough evidence presented

to distinguish Drosera filiformis ssp.

trayci as a separate species. Drosera

filiformis ssp. tracyi differs from Drosera

filiformis ssp. filiformis in the following

Drosera filiformis ssp. trayci

respects:

Character

D. filiformis ssp. filiformis

D. filiformis ssp. tracyi

Leaf Length

3 - 10 inches (8 - 26 cm)

12 - 20 inches (30 - 51 cm)

Scape Length

2.4 - 10 inches (6 - 26 cm)

10 - 24 in (26 - 61 cm)

Color of Glandular Hair

Red

Clear

Color of Plant

Reddish

Pale Green

For Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis from the northern

locations, i.e. those not from Florida, cultivation follows the

traditional

temperate

Drosera

pattern.

winter,

hibernaculum form and the plant must be subjected to cold

winter temperatures. For plants from Florida, often known

as ‘Florida Giant’, ‘Florida Red’, ‘Giant Red’, or ‘Red’,

hibernaculum are, occasionally, formed for a month-or-so

upon near-freezing temperatures being reached, but the

plants begin growing immediately upon temperatures

warming, a death sentence for more northerly climates,

where freezing temperatures will kill the new growth.

A comprehensive genetic study of the different

populations of Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis has never been

undertaken. Such a study would probably reveal genetic

differences significant enough to merit a new classification

of this species. Already, there is significant evidence that

the Florida variant is different from the other populations.

Currently, most Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis in

cultivation are from New Jersey, except for the ‘Florida

Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis ‘Florida Red’

Red’ plants. The plants from New Jersey are larger and less has pink flowers, much like the other variants of

cold tolerant than the ones from more northern locales.

Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis.

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D. rotundifolia

Drosera rotundifolia is the

quintessential temperate Drosera

and a must have for any grower

interested in temperate Drosera.

It is a remarkably easy species

to grow, if given a cold winter

dormancy. In good conditions,

one plant can produce upwards

of a thousand seeds per season!

Despite growing around

the northern hemisphere, the

first anthocyanin-free specimen

( f.

viridescens)

Drosera

rotundifolia was found in 2006

near Iga City, Mie Prefecture,

Kinki District, Japan. It is

identical in all aspects to

regular

Drosera

rotundifolia,

except that it does not possess

Drosera rotundifolia growing in a bog in New Hampshire.

any red pigment.

My standard growing guide for temperate Drosera follows:

✵

Media: Temperate Drosera are often grown in a mix of one part sphagnum peat to one part sand or

perlite, but some, such as Drosera linearis appear to require a less acidic media. A mix of one part

sphagnum peat to alkaline clay works well for the species that prefer a less acidic media.

✵

Moisture: Watering via the tray method, and always keeping some water in the tray is probably the

easiest way to meet the moisture requirements of temperate Drosera during the growing season.

During dormancy, soil should remain moist but not soaking in order to prevent rot.

✵

Humidity: Temperate Drosera are not particularly picky about humidity, but, in nature, typically

experience somewhat higher ambient humidity during the growing season than in dormancy.

✵

Pot Size: Pots should be larger than the plant in diameter, but most Drosera are not particular about

pot size.

✵

Feeding: Feeding temperate Drosera will encourage growth. The more insects caught or orchid

fertilizer spritzed on them, the better they will grow. Typically, I use half-strength orchid fertilizer

applied to the leaves of plants grown indoors. Plants grown outdoors will capture enough small

insects on their own that fertilizer is not strictly necessary.

✵

Temperature: Temperate species can tolerate a wide range of above-freezing temperatures during the

growing season, but need to experience a cold, but not necessarily freezing, dormancy period lasting

several months.

✵

Dormancy: Dormancy is required for temperate Drosera. In cold climates, plants can be left outdoors,

but in warmer climates, plants should be dug up after forming hibernaculum in mid-autumn. These

hibernaculum should be wrapped in a damp paper towel, placed in a plastic bag, and put in a

refrigerator for several months.

✵

Propagation: Temperate Drosera are most easily propagated through seed, but can also be propagated

through leaf cuttings.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

Seed: The easiest way to propagate temperate Drosera is to collect their copious seed. Seed is

mature when the pods dry, turn black, and begin to split. The seed requires a cool

stratification period of at least four weeks. The best way to do this is to sow the seed on a

damp, suitable medium, place plastic wrap over the medium, and place in the refrigerator for

a month. The seed should then be removed and placed in a well-lit area. Seedlings should

appear within weeks.

Leaf Cuttings: Leaf cuttings are a remarkably easy method of propagation. As with other

Drosera, cut the leaf from its base and place on an appropriate medium. In a few weeks, a

small plantlet should appear near one of the tentacles. It is beneficial to give the cutting

higher humidity than the parent plants.

Tropical & Subtropical Drosera

The tropical and subtropical Drosera group includes a wide

variety of easy to grow species including the often-unlabeled Drosera

“roundansticky” and Drosera capensis Complex. It also includes slightly

more difficult, subtropical species, such as Drosera filiformis ssp.

filiformis ‘Florida Red’ and Drosera capillaris, as well as difficult species,

such as Drosera regia. None of the species in this group goes truly

dormant and all are native to areas with warm conditions nearly year

round.

As with most other Drosera, most members of the tropical and

subtropical horticultural group have self-fertile flowers. Since many

of them grow year round, they can flower two or three times a year,

resulting in copious seed being produced. Inevitably, this seed is

blown into other pots throughout a grower’s collection, and quickly

become weeds, especially

members of the Drosera

Drosera madigascarensis

capensis Complex.

D. burmannii / D. sessilifolia

These two tiny, often confused, tropical Drosera are

remarkably similar looking. Drosera burmannii is native to Southeast

Asia and Australia. Drosera sessilifolia, in contrast, is native to South

America. Both Drosera burmannii and Drosera sessilifolia are tiny

plants with wedge shaped leaves, covered in fine sticky tentacles.

The end of the leaf has longer “snap” tentacles, which can move

rapidly towards the center of the plant, bringing prey in contact

with more tentacles. These “snap” tentacles can move within

seconds.

In cultivation, both of these annuals tend to become weeds, if

allowed to flower. Better color can be achieved by not feeding

them, although feeding is necessary for the plants to grow to full

size and flower. Powdered mealworms work well as food, but be

careful not to overwhelm these tiny plants with food particles that

Drosera burmannii

are too large.

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Drosera capensis ‘Pink’ in insufficient light.

D. capensis - Complex

The typical Drosera capensis is often the first sundew that a new carnivorous

plant enthusiast attempts to grow. It’s not hard to see why. This South African

native is a prolific seed producer, will grow in most any conditions, is virtually

indestructible, and a very showy species. It is also a highly variable species. At

present, the following “varieties” are known to exist: ‘Alba’, ‘Bains Kloof’, ‘Giant’,

‘Narrow Leaf’, ‘Pink’, ‘Red’, ‘Typical’, and ‘Wide Leaf’.

One of the most interesting is Drosera capensis ‘Pink’. This cultivar produces

leaves that are twice as large as regular Drosera capensis. The entire plant turns a light

pink under bright light, and has large, bright pink flowers. It is rumored that it is a

cross between Drosera capensis ‘Alba’ and Drosera capensis ‘Red’, but the true

parentage is unknown.

D. indica - Complex

One of the most widespread annual species is - or rather - was Drosera indica.

Recent work by Allen Lowrie and others has revealed that this, formerly variable

species, is actually a species complex, i.e. a series of closely related species. The Drosera hartmeyerorum

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Drosera indica Complex consists of the following species, with the following distributions:

Species

Range

Seeds

Notes

Near Kununurra, Western

Australia, and near Darwin,

Ovoid, 0.42 -

aquatica

Northwest Territory, Australia.

0.45 mm.

Affixed aquatic or free floating.

Prince Regent River to Drysdale

River in the Kimberley Region of

Ellipsoidal, 0.37

aurantiaca

Western Australia.

- 0.40 mm.

Plants red.

Prince Regent River to Drysdale

River in the Kimberley Region of

Ovoid, 0.31 -

Stem green with some red

barrettorum

Western Australia.

0.35 mm.

coloration, leaves green.

Prince Regent River to Wyndham

in the Kimberley Region of

Oblong, 0.86 -

cucullata

Western Australia.

0.90 mm.

Plant dull green, turning red.

Central Australia, China, Vietnam, Ellipsoidal, 0.50

Drier locations that seasonally

finlaysoniana

Laos, and Taiwan.

- 0.55 mm.

flood.

Emits a very strong honeydew

Broome to Darwin, Northwest

Broadly ovoid,

melon-like scent, possibly from

fragrans

Territory, Australia.

0.50 - 0.55 mm.

appendages near leaf bases.

Near Beverley Springs Station and Ovoid, 0.30 -

glabriscapa

Theda Station, Western Australia.

0.35 mm.

Plants green, turning red.

Broome to Keep River in the

Ovoid, 0.34 -

hartmeyerorum Northwest Territory of Australia.

0.35 mm.

Red stem and green-to-red leaves.

Africa, Madagascar, India, and

Ovoid, 0.4 - 0.5

indica

southeast Asia.

mm.

Plants red or green.

Ovoid, 0.4 - 0.5

Plants green with white flowers,

makinoi

Japan

mm.

often with pink anthers.

Short (3 in. (7 - 10 cm)), green

Near Darwin, Northwest

Ellipsoidal, 0.31

plants, having some red

nana

Territory, Australia.

- 0.33 mm.

coloration.

Northern Australia and southeast

Ovoid, 0.50 -

serpens

Asia.

0.55 mm.

Plants red or green.

Ovoid, 0.4 - 0.5

toyoakensis

Chubu District, Japan.

Plants green with pink flowers.

As of now, only the members of the Drosera indica Complex from Australia and Japan have been studied

in-depth and placed into proper botanical categories. Members of the Drosera indica Complex from Africa,

Madigascar, India, and southeast Asia have yet to be studied in depth and are still labeled “Drosera indica.”

Most species of this complex in cultivation are Drosera finlaysoniana, although Drosera hartmeyerorum is

becoming more popular in cultivation. Most individuals in cultivation follow the typical annual-schedule of

requiring feeding when small plantlets, growing rapidly to become adults, and flowering profusely to set seed,

all within a few months.

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Drosera regia flower.

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D. regia

The King Sundew, Drosera regia, is one

of the rarest Drosera in the wild and most

desired Drosera in cultivation. Until recently,

it was rumored to be among the most

difficult to cultivate of the tropical Drosera.

Around the time of the registration of the

Drosera regia cultivar ‘Big Easy’ in 2003,

serious research began on the cultivation

and botanical history of the species. (‘Big

Easy’ does not require dormancy, does not

produce flowers, and is exceedingly, easy).

In the wild, Drosera regia has only every

been found at two locations, despite

extensive searches. Both sites are in the

Bainskloff Range near Wellington, South

Africa at elevations between 1,600 - 3,000 ft.

(500 - 900 m). The higher of the two sites

has since been overgrown by rushes and

other non-carnivorous species. The lower

site is in a similar state and has only a few

dozen plants remaining.

In its natural habitat, Drosera regia

grows in peaty quartzite sand with a gravel

cover along a seep formed along an old

creek bed. The habitat is maintained, like

many in the Fynbos, by fire periodically

sweeping through the area and burning off

larger, competing plants. The daytime

temperatures are mild, and nights are cool

(~60° F (15° C)). During the colder season,

when infrequent frosts occur, Drosera regia

Drosera regia

goes dormant, forming a tight cluster of

short, immature leaves.

Interestingly, Drosera regia shares many relic characteristics, such as woody rhizomes, not found in other

Drosera species. These characteristics set Drosera regia apart, and give context to early failures to cultivate the

species. Recent work - and study of the Drosera regia ‘Big Easy’ cultivar - has revealed that the species needs

food, a lot of food. Early growers often neglected to feed the plant after it germinated, resulting in its demise

due to starvation.

Drosera regia requires so much food, in fact, that it is advisable to include four or five Osmocote type,

slow release fertilizer pellets in the pure long-fiber sphagnum or mix of one part sphagnum peat to one part

sand and one part perlite. Drosera regia appears to prefer cooler roots, and less water than other Drosera. The

easiest method of propagation is via root cuttings. If given appropriate conditions, Drosera regia can produce

leaves up to 28 inches (70 cm) long.

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D. spathulata

The ubiquitous Drosera spathulata, native to

Southeast Asia and Australia, and contained in most

every carnivorous plant collection, is the default species

name for any round-and-sticky Drosera growing in

tropical or subtropical conditions. The plants may either

have white or pink flowers, will not produce

hibernaculum, and have been recorded to have

chromosome numbers 2n = 20, 2n = 30, and 2n = 40. It

would not be surprising to learn that a future, systematic

survey indicates that there are multiple species

comprising the Drosera spathulata complex.

So far, Drosera spathulata has been divided into the

following varieties - bakoensis (type location at Bako

National Park in Sarawak), gympiensis (type location near

Gympie, Australia), and lovellae (also known as “Fraser

Island Form”). The complex also includes Drosera

tokaiensis from Japan, which has a chromosome number

of 2n = 60, Drosera oblanceolata from China, and Drosera

neocaledonica from New Caledonia. Some varieties are

merely a half inch (2 cm) in diameter, while others, such

as var. lovellae, are 2 - 3 inches (up to 7 cm) in diameter.

Further, some are clearly tropical or subtropical variants,

Drosera spathulata

while others grow much better in alpine conditions.

D. tokaiensis

One of the most widespread and morphologically

variable species in cultivation is Drosera tokaiensis. Most likely,

this species is the result of the spread of fertile hybrid Drosera

x tokaiensis, which itself is a natural hybrid between Drosera

rotundifolia and Drosera spathulata. As discussed above, Drosera

spathulata is a, somewhat, morphologically variable species,

and occurs in numerous locations alongside Drosera

rotundifolia. Occasionally, the two hybridize. Given that

Drosera hybrids often share characteristics of both parents

and often look more like the mother plant, the hybrid

Drosera x tokaiensis is rather diverse in morphology. It is

unsurprising, then, that the species would be similarly

diverse. (The major difference between the hybrid and

Drosera natalensis, a species often

species is that the hybrid is 2n = 30 and the species is 2n =

confused with Drosera tokaiensis.

60).

As with most tropical and subtropical Drosera, this species is remarkably easy to grow, requiring only

warm temperatures, constant moisture, and light. It will do well outside in the summertime most anywhere in

the world. In the winter, in cold areas, it would be best to take it inside and grown on the tray method. Do

not be surprised, however, if it returns from seed after a cold winter outdoors.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

My standard growing guide for tropical and subtropical Drosera follows:

✵

Media: Very few tropical or subtropical Drosera demand a specific media. Most growers use a mix of

one part sphagnum peat to one part sand or perlite. Some growers have used pure sand for species

such as Drosera filiformis ssp. filiformis ‘Florida Red’, populations of which can be found naturally growing

in pure sand. Certain species, such as Drosera regia, should be potted in more specialized media, and

care should be taken to pot species from specialized environments in their appropriate media.

✵

Moisture: The easiest way to water most tropical and subtropical Drosera is via the tray method. Some

water should always be kept in the tray. Note, however, that in drier climates, this may not provide

sufficient humidity for the plants, some of which are used to very humid environments. Note also

that some species, such as Drosera regia, prefer drier growing conditions.

✵

Humidity: Most tropical and subtropical Drosera are not particularly picky about humidity, but some,

such as Drosera madigascarensis, may prefer more humid environments. Easy species, such as Drosera

capensis, can grow in almost any level of humidity and are a good gauge as to whether a particular

environment is humid enough for any carnivorous plants.

✵

Pot Size: Most species will do well in any pot larger than their diameter, but some, particularly those

with thick roots, should be given pots with ample room to grow. Generally, species with thicker

roots require larger pots.

✵

Feeding: As with most carnivorous plants, feeding is recommended. Note, however, that, especially

with tropical and subtropical Drosera, feeding will encourage flowering. Flowering will result in seed

production. Seed production will result in volunteer plantlets spreading outside the parent’s pot.

Generally speaking, the more a tropical or subtropical Drosera is fed, the more flowers it will produce.

Some, such as Drosera regia, do require supplemental feeding to survive, but most will capture so

many small insects on their own that fertilizer is not strictly necessary.

✵

Temperature: Tropical and subtropical Drosera should not be exposed to freezing temperatures for

long periods of time. Most will return from the roots if the aboveground portion is killed by frost,

but some are more temperamental. The upper limit for temperatures should not exceed 95° F (35°

C), if possible. If growing indoors, try to avoid temperatures that warm as it is unlikely that the plant

will be able to withstand such temperatures for long periods of time. Outside, most tropical and

subtropical Drosera can survive warmer temperatures in summer, but prolonged exposure can be

detrimental to long-term survival.

✵

Dormancy: Dormancy is not required for tropical or subtropical Drosera.

✵

Propagation: Tropical and subtropical Drosera are most easily propagated through seed, but can also

be propagated through leaf cuttings or root cuttings.

Seed: The easiest way to propagate tropical and subtropical Drosera is via seed. This is

produced in copious quantities for most species. The seed is mature when the pods dry, turn

black, and begin to split. Seed from neither tropical nor subtropical Drosera requires a cool

stratification period. It can be sown immediately and will germinate within weeks. Most

species will produce mature plants within months.

Leaf Cuttings: Leaf cuttings are a remarkably easy method of propagation. As with other

Drosera, cut the leaf from its base and place on an appropriate medium. In a few weeks, a

small plantlet should appear near one of the tentacles. It is beneficial to give the cutting even

higher humidity than the parent plants.

Root Cuttings: Perhaps the fastest way of propagating tropical and subtropical Drosera is via

root cuttings, but this only seems to work on thick-rooted species, such as Drosera capensis.

An inch long (2.5 centimeter) section of healthy root may be removed from a growing plant

and laid horizontally on top of a suitable media. The root should then be covered by a pinch

of media. If successful, growth should appear in a few weeks.

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Highland Tropical Drosera

Drosera latifolia

The highland tropical Drosera group includes a wide variety of species from the Tepuis of South

America, some cooler-growing species from South Africa, such as Drosera slackii, and the “Queensland

Sisters,” i.e. Drosera adelae, Drosera prolifera, and Drosera schizandra. All of these species are native to the highlands of their respective continents, and, although many of the characteristics of those highlands are very

different, the characteristic that unites all the members of this group is their need to grow in cool, humid

environments.

It may seem strange to think that the species of the lost worlds of South America have much in

common with the few species of the Fynbos which require cool temperatures or the inhabitants of Australia’s

rainforest, but, in cultivation, they are all remarkably similar. They would do well alongside Heliamphora or

highland Nepenthes.

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Drosera prolifera

D. adelae, D. prolifera, and D. schizandra - The Queensland Sisters

The so-called “Queensland Sisters”, the three species found

along stream banks in an area of coastal mountain rain forest in

northeast Queensland, Australia, are remarkably easy species to

grow, if given the right conditions. Drosera adelae is among the most

popular - and common - of the sisters. Although Drosera adelae will

tolerate virtually any condition, with the exception of hot sun

(above 90° F (32° C)) or freezing cold, it does best in semi-shade in

cool, humid areas.

Unlike Drosera adelae, Drosera prolifera and Drosera schizandra are

less tolerant of extreme conditions. Both prefer temperatures in-

line with those used to grow Heliamphora, and shade. Temperatures

should not exceed 75° F (24° C), humidity should be high, and

shade should be plentiful, especially for Drosera schizandra.

In recent years, hybrids among the Queensland Sisters have

come to the carnivorous plant market. The most desirable of these

is Drosera ‘Andromeda’, a hybrid between Drosera prolifera and

Drosera adelae ‘Red’

NATCH GREYES

Drosera schizandra. Several different clones of this cross exist, and the more prolific ones have spread quite

widely in cultivation. As with many hybrids, Drosera ‘Andromeda’ exhibits a certain kind of vigor, making it as

easy to grow as Drosera adelae. As with the species, living sphagnum moss is the best media to grow Drosera

‘Andromeda’.

D. ascendens, esmeraldae, D. graomogolensis, latifolia, and other Tepui-dwellers

In the wild, most Tepui-dwelling

Drosera live among Heliamphora, and

advice on cultivation should be taken

from that chapter. As with Heliamphora

and other Tepui-dwellers, the Tepui-

dwelling Drosera, such as Drosera

ascendens, Drosera esmeraldae, and Drosera

graomogolensis, prefer cool temperatures

which never exceed 80° F (27° C), a

nighttime temperature drop of at least

10° F (5° C), high humidity, and bright

light during the day. Further, Tepui-

dwelling Drosera prefer deeper pots, as,

unlike their temperate cousins, Tepui-

dwellers have deep roots to anchor

themselves onto the rock and prevent

Drosera graomogolensis

their being swept away in the torrents of

water that follow a rainstorm.

In cultivation, many growers find success with a media mixture of one part sphagnum peat to one part

sand or pure, live sphagnum moss. Live sphagnum is preferable in growing environments where the ambient

humidity is lower than necessary for these species, as the sphagnum will generate some humidity itself during

its own photosynthetic cycle. Humidity should be as near as 100% as possible in order to mimic the humidity

naturally found atop the Tepuis. Daytime temperatures are best when they remain in the 65° - 70° F (18° -

21° C) range. Tepui-dwelling Drosera should be given as much light as possible.

D. slackii

This South African native grows in the cool, peaty wetlands

of the Klipriviersberg Mountains and the southern Kogelberg.

Although an easy plant in cultivation - and highly desirable - it is

not as common in cultivation as it once was, possibly as a factor

of many growers shifting focus towards Nepenthes, Heliamphora, and

other newly discovered carnivores.

In cultivation, Drosera slackii prefers a peat-based mix. Many

growers have reported success with a mix of equal parts

sphagnum peat and sand. Long-fiber sphagnum works well, too.

Cooler temperatures are necessary, as, when temperatures are too

warm, plants will exhibit obvious signs of heat stress such as

yellowing. High humidity environments are preferable. Drosera

Drosera slackii

slackii is easily propagated from leaf or root cuttings.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

My standard growing guide for highland tropical Drosera follows:

✵

Media: Most highland tropical Drosera are tolerant of a wide variety of mixtures, but most growers

use one part sphagnum peat and one part sand or long-fiber sphagnum. Some species, such as the

Queensland Sisters and some Tepui-dwelling Drosera, prefer living sphagnum. Tepui-dwelling Drosera

are, however, more temperamental about media and some experimentation may be necessary to find

the right blend.

✵

Moisture: As with most carnivores, highland tropical Drosera like moist, but not soaking media. A few

species, such as Drosera slackii, grow well using the traditional tray method, but others, such as Drosera

schizandra will not tolerate sitting in a tray of water for long periods of time.

✵

Humidity: Unlike some other horticultural categories of Drosera, all highland tropical Drosera come

from areas of high humidity. For many species in this category, insufficient humidity results in the

tentacles lacking “dew.” The solution to a lack of “dew” is to first assess the humidity level of the

environment. If increasing the humidity does not work, then a pest may be at work.

✵

Pot Size: Pots should be larger than the plant in diameter, but most are not particular about pot size

except the Tepui-dwelling Drosera. Those prefer deep pots.

✵

Feeding: Highland tropical Drosera, like most Drosera, may be fertilized or fed with small prey animals

(many of which can be purchased in the reptile section of pet stores). If using prey animals, be

careful to watch for leaf burn, which can occur much more easily on many of these species, if the

prey is too large or nutrient rich. Take particular care to watch Drosera schizandra for signs of leaf

burn, as that species has fewer sessile glands than most Drosera.

✵

Temperature: Highland tropical Drosera prefer the cooler temperatures experienced by Heliamphora or

highland Nepenthes. Daytime temperatures should not exceed 75° F (24° C). In the wild, most

experience night time temperatures from 50° - 60° F (10° - 16° C). Some species, such as Drosera

graomogolensis will tolerate warmer temperatures, but many species, such as Drosera ascendens require

cool temperatures for successful cultivation. In warmer temperatures, consider potting in live

sphagnum to increase the ambient humidity. This appears to give a cushion of about 5° F (2° C).

✵

Dormancy: Dormancy is not required for highland tropical Drosera.

✵

Propagation: Highland tropical Drosera can be propagated through seed, leaf cuttings, or root

cuttings.

Seed: The slowest way to propagate highland tropical Drosera is through seed. The seed does

not require a cool stratification period, but may be slow to germinate. For many species,

especially Tepui-dwellers, seed does not stay viable for long. Therefore, it is necessary to use

fresh seed, i.e. seed collected within a month or two of sewing. It will take a couple years for

a mature plant to result from seed sewn on a suitable medium.

Leaf Cuttings: Leaf cuttings are the easiest and most common method of propagation. As

with other Drosera, cut the leaf from its base and place on an appropriate medium. In a few

weeks, a small plantlet should appear near one of the tentacles. For Tepui-dwellers, leaf

cuttings have a lower success rate than with other Drosera. The Queensland Sisters and South

African Drosera, such as Drosera slackii, have, in contrast, a remarkably high success rate. It is

beneficial to give the cutting even higher humidity than the parent plant, and may be

beneficially to give them nearly as much light.

Root Cuttings: Perhaps the fastest way of propagating highland tropical Drosera is via root

cuttings, but this only seems to work on thick-rooted species or the Queensland Sisters.

Take an inch long (2.5 centimeter) section of healthy root from a healthy plant and lay it

horizontally on top of a suitable media. Cover this with a pinch of media, allowing it to be

exposed to light if using a root from the Queensland Sisters. In a few weeks, a plantlet

should sprout from somewhere along the root.

NATCH GREYES

Drosera enodes setting seed after flowering.

Pygmy Drosera

The miniature jewels of Australia, the pygmy Drosera are tiny rosetted plants, usually less than an inch

(2.5 centimeter) in diameter. Most live in the southern portion of Western Australia. There, the climate is hot

and dry (~90° F (32° C)) in the summer and cool and wet (~46° F (8° C)) in the winter. As a consequence,

most species do most of their growing during the winter and go dormant during the summer.

The two species which live outside of Western Australia are Drosera pygmaea, which can be found

throughout Southern Australia as well as in New Zealand and Tasmania, and Drosera meristocaulis, which can

be found only in the a few valleys on the northern side of Pico da Neblina, the tallest mountain in Brazil.

Recent scientific analysis has revealed that Drosera meristocaulis (or, rather, its ancestor) was carried from

Australia by migrating birds sometime in the distant past.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

All species, except Drosera meristocaulis, produce gemmae.

These small plantlet buds are, by far, the easiest way to

reproduce pygmy Drosera. Once gathered from the crown of

the plant in the fall, they can be placed atop suitable media

and kept moist. In a few weeks, the gemmae will sprout into

new plants, genetic clones of their parents. Unfortunately, it is

not possible to store gemmae for very long, as they can easily

desiccate and die if kept too dry, or mold and rot if kept too

moist.

D. pulchella

Drosera pulchella is among is

easiest of pygmy Drosera to cultivate.

It forms a small rosette of tiny,

overlapping green petioles and

round, orange-colored traps. Among

the pygmies, it has the widest range

of flower colors, ranging from pink,

to white, to orange. As with many

pygmies, its gemmae are small, flat,

Drosera pulchella with gemmae.

and difficult to dislodge.

Drosera pulchella with

Drosera pulchella is tolerant of a wide-range of potting media, but prefers a sand-

a white flower.

based media, as do other pygmy Drosera. It will also tolerate a wide-range of

temperatures, growing from temperatures just above freezing to near 90° F (32° C).

D. scorpioides

The largest of the pygmy Drosera, Drosera

scorpioides, is among the easiest - and most popular - to

grow. As with all other pygmy Drosera, Drosera scorpioides

is a small, rosetted Drosera with small, thin petioles, and

large traps. Unlike other pygmies, new leaves grow

atop one another in a fashion that creates a stem. The

largest specimens of Drosera scorpioides can reach 4

inches (10 cm) tall, and be up to 2 inches (5 cm) in

diameter. The flowers are pink or white. In ideal

conditions, a single plant can live up to seven years,

and produce several hundred, if not thousand,

gemmae.

In the wild, Drosera scorpioides is found in deep,

white sand habitat in the Jarrah Forest region. At

times, temperatures can soar to over 110° F (45° C)!

(The heat reflecting white sand does keep the

temperature of the soil slightly lower, but not by

much).

Drosera scorpioides after gemmae removed.

NATCH GREYES

My standard growing guide for pygmy Drosera follows:

✵

Media: Most pygmy Drosera grow in a mixture which largely consists of silica sand in the wild. My

recommendation for cultivating these tiny sundews is to follow a soil recipe similar to the

composition found in the wild - three parts silica sand to one part sphagnum peat. Other successful

recipes include one part sand to one part sphagnum peat.

✵

Moisture: Pygmy Drosera, like many Australian carnivores, are adapted to long periods of dry weather

followed by long periods of wet weather. As with many Australian carnivores, pygmy Drosera grow

during the cool and wet season. They become dormant during the hot and dry season. In cultivation,

keep the media moist, but not wet, when the pygmy Drosera are actively growing. After gemmae have

formed, allow the media to dry out, but not completely. After a few months, increase the amount of

water available to the pygmy Drosera. This should induce growth. Keep cooler during active growth,

and hot during dormancy.

✵

Humidity: Humidity is not a major factor for pygmy Drosera, but ambient humidity must be above

30% for dew to form properly. If humidity is too low, pygmy Drosera will suffer.

✵

Pot Size: Most pygmy Drosera have deep roots and should be potted in deep pots. I have, however,

been successful at growing them in short, one-and-a-half inch (4 cm) pots, but I would not

recommend this set-up for long-term cultivation.

✵

Feeding: Pygmy Drosera must be fed in order to produce a healthy crop of gemmae and survive

through the hot, dormant period. Small, pulverized insects or diluted foliar fertilizer work well, but,

unlike some other carnivores, pygmy Drosera respond notably better to feeding with actual insects

than foliar fertilizer.

✵

Temperature: Pygmy Drosera are not particularly picky about temperatures, but will enter dormancy if

temperatures rise to 90° F (32° C). Active growth occurs best in temperatures around 70° F (21° C).

✵

Dormancy: Depending on the grower’s conditions, dormancy may or may not be required. High

temperatures will induce dormancy, which must be tolerated for several months. Keeping

temperatures low will allow the plants to grow year round without interruption. The problem with

keeping temperatures low, however, is that the plants will not form gemmae, which form in the

weeks before dormancy.

✵

Propagation: Pygmy Drosera are most easily propagated through gemmae, although it is possible to

propagate them through seed or leaf cuttings.

Gemmae: Gemmae are the easiest and best way to propagate pygmy Drosera. Gemmae are

formed after several months of active growth, just prior to dry dormancy. These asexual

“plantlets” form on the crown of the plant, clustering about the center. Most species

gemmae consists of semi-flat disks. These can be carefully detached from the crown of the

plant via gentle teasing with a pair of tweezers, spraying with water, or by using suction

created by gentle sucking on a straw (or creating a contraption with two straws and a

container which allows the gemmae to fall in the container). After harvesting, gemmae

should either be planted immediately or within the next couple weeks. They should be stored

in damp paper towels in a cool place. New plants should appear within a couple weeks of

sewing.

Seed: The slowest way to propagate pygmy Drosera is through seed. It is difficult to get seed

to germinate and, usually, requires up to a year of patience and long, alternating, cool damp

and hot dry periods.

Leaf Cuttings: Leaf cuttings are an uncommon way to propagate pygmy Drosera because the

leaves are so small. It is, however, possible, if a leaf can be detached with the petiole intact. It

should be placed atop a suitable media with a little media holding it down. In a few weeks, a

new plantlet should appear.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

Drosera peltata

Tuberous Drosera

The tuberous Drosera are an exclusively Australian phenomenon. Most

are native to Western Australia, a largely unexplored area of the country.

All die down to a tuber in the dry season, coming back when the rains

begin to wet the hard, dry earth. When growing, most form either rosettes

of large, broad leaves or tall, erect stems with many, roundish leaves.

The number of tuberous species is currently uncertain. In his recent

magnum opus, Allen Lowrie reported that he was aware of several more

species which have not yet been described. Undoubtedly, more have yet to

be found.

D. erythrorhiza

Drosera erythrorhiza is one of the largest, rosetted tuberous Drosera. Its

large, broad, green leaves are rimmed by carnivorous tentacles and can

grow up to 4 inches (10 cm) across. The center strip of leaf is largely

lacking in tentacles.

Drosera erythrorhiza13

NATCH GREYES

As with other tuberous Drosera, Drosera erythrorhiza is best grown in well-drained, sandy soil in, at least, an

eight inch (20 cm) diameter pot. Secondary, lateral rhizomes are common with this species, and a good year’s

growth can result in a plethora of new plants coming up from all around the parent plant.

D. peltata - Complex

The Drosera peltata Complex consists of several

species of tuberous Drosera with long, scrambling stems

and shield-shaped leaves. Until recently, the entire

complex was known as the single, highly variable species

Drosera peltata. Recent taxonomic work has divided the

group into a number of species, including Drosera lunata

and Drosera peltata. At present, there is significant debate

about whether the widespread-species which covers

Southeast Asia is Drosera lunata or Drosera peltata.

Regardless of whether the plant is Drosera lunata or

Drosera peltata, the members of this complex are among

the easiest tuberous Drosera to cultivate. All will grow

rapidly, if fed small pulverized insects frequently. As with

all tuberous Drosera, feeding is necessary to allow large

tubers to grow. Like other tuberous Drosera, after a few

years of growth, most members of the Drosera peltata

complex will flower prolifically. These flowers are easily

pollinated and set copious amounts of seed, which will

easily germinate easily during the next “wet” season.

Drosera peltata

My standard growing guide for tuberous Drosera follows:

✵

Media: As with pygmy Drosera, most tuberous Drosera grow in a mixture which largely consists of

silica sand in the wild. My recommendation for cultivating these tiny sundews is to follow the natural

recipe of 3 parts silica sand to 1 part sphagnum peat.

✵

Moisture: Tuberous Drosera have a wet, active growth cycle, during which the media should be kept

wet, but not soaking, and a dry, dormancy cycle, during which the media should be kept near bone

dry.

✵

Humidity: Humidity is not a major factor, but keeping ambient humidity above 30% is important for

proper dew formation.

✵

Pot Size: Pots should be at least 6 inches (16 cm) deep, although deeper is better. Tubers can and

often will form outside the bottom of the pot if the pot is not large enough. Many species will form

horizontal tubers in good conditions, so relatively wide pots are recommended as well.

✵

Feeding: Tuberous Drosera must be fed in order to form tubers. Small, pulverized insects or diluted

foliar fertilizer are recommended.

✵

Temperature: Tuberous Drosera will enter dormancy if temperatures rise to 90° F (32° C). Active

growth occurs best in temperatures between 45° F (7° C) and 70° F (21° C).

✵

Dormancy: High temperatures will induce dormancy, and dormancy must occur for plants to survive

long-term in cultivation. During dormancy, the plants must be kept near bone dry for several months

in a warm location. Cool temperatures can induce growth, while too much water during dormancy

can root the tubers.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

✵

Propagation: Tuberous Drosera are most easily propagated through division of tubers, but can also be

propagated via seed.

Tuber Division: Many species will produce more than one tuber during the growing season,

if given plenty of food. Some, such as Drosera menziesii will produce more than one along the

main growing stem. Others, such as Drosera aberrans, will produce tubers along lateral

growths. During dormancy, these can be divided from one another and repotted, “eye” side

up.

Seed: The slowest way to propagate tuberous Drosera is through seed, although it is a fairly

easy process. Many species require heat stratification. For those species, if it is not possible

to leave them in an area which reaches 122° F (50° C), one can put the seeds in a tea bag and

submerge them in a pot of water at or near that temperature for a minute before sewing.

Alternatively, leave them sewn for a season or two. When conditions are right, they should

germinate.

Leaf Cuttings: Leaf cuttings have been reported as successful, but extremely rarely.

Petiolaris-Complex Drosera

Drosera ordensis14

Sometimes known as the “Woolly Sundews”, the leaf petioles of most of the Petiolaris-Complex are

covered in white hairs which protect them from the sun in the hot, dry locations where they live in their

native Australia. The hairs keep the leaves slightly cooler and lower the transpiration rate, as well as capture

some of the humidity in the air.

NATCH GREYES

Nearly all of the Petiolaris-Complex Drosera have small, round carnivorous leaves at the end of long, thin,

non-carnivorous petioles, reminiscent of Dionaea petioles. This makes them easily identifiable, and interesting

plants to grow.

The Petiolaris-Complex Drosera are native to an area of Australia that experiences warm temperatures year

round. The most difficult part about cultivating them is keeping them warm enough. They should experience

temperatures at or above 85° F (30° C), a will die if subjected to temperatures 65° F (18° C) or below.

Drosera falconeri15

D. falconeri

Drosera falconeri is one of the most desirable members of the Petiolaris-Complex. It grows a flat rosette

with a long petiole and large, flat leaf reminiscent of a Venus Flytrap’s trap. When it catches prey, its leaves

fold in half, much like a Venus Flytrap. Unlike other members of the Petiolaris-Complex, it grows in wetter

soil. The soil composition of its native habitat is sandy and alkaline. In cultivation, most growers are

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

successful at using a mix of sphagnum peat and sand.

This species is among the most difficult of the complex to

cultivate successfully. Depending on the grower's conditions, it

can either be grown year round or subjected to a dry dormancy

season. If given a dry dormancy, the leaves will die back to a

tight rosette of leaves reminiscent of a hibernaculum. These

leaves will be gathered just under the soil surface.

D. petiolaris

Drosera petiolaris, the archetypical members of the Petiolaris-

Complex, is a rosetted plant that produces small, round traps

atop long, thin petioles. (Unlike some of its cousins, such as

Drosera derbyensis, Drosera petiolaris does not possess hairy

petioles). These traps are held out in a hemispherical pattern. In

strong light, the plants appear almost as if they were miniature

models of a solar-system.

The flowers of Drosera petiolaris, like the rest of the

Petiolaris-Complex, are self-incompatible. Two plants must be

flowering at the same time and cross-pollination occur for seed

to be produced. As with other species in the Petiolaris-Complex,

Drosera petiolaris readily hybridizes with other species within the

complex. Many plants in cultivation are, in fact, hybrids,

although not all are labeled as such. Therefore, it is necessary to

compare plants grown from seed against descriptions of the

species in order to ascertain whether the plants are, in fact, pure

species or hybrids.

Drosera lanata16

My standard growing guide for Petiolaris-Complex Drosera follows:

✵

Media: Petiolaris-Complex Drosera are not picky about potting media. A mixture of two parts sand to

one part sphagnum peat works well.

✵

Moisture: Petiolaris-Complex Drosera, like many Australian plants, have a have a wet, active growth

cycle and a drier, dormancy cycle. Unlike other Australian plants, the during the drier cycle, the

Petiolaris-Complex species do not need to have completely dry media. Instead, they may be kept just

barely moist.

✵

Humidity: Humidity is not a major factor, but keeping ambient humidity above 30% is important for

proper dew formation.

✵

Pot Size: Pots should be small, barely larger than the diameter of the plant, although slightly large

pots may be wanted if the plant is to slowly form clumps without requiring repotting.

✵

Feeding: Petiolaris-Complex Drosera should be fed with either small, pulverized insects or diluted foliar

fertilizer.

✵

Temperature: Unlike other carnivorous plant species, Petiolaris-Complex Drosera require warm

temperatures year round, as discussed above.

✵

Dormancy: Although Petiolaris-Complex Drosera do experience a dormancy, not much change is

necessary in terms of cultivation, merely reducing the amount of water available to the plant.

NATCH GREYES

✵

Propagation: Petiolaris-Complex Drosera will slowly form clumps over time, although seed is an easier

method of getting more plants faster. Leaf pullings can be done, but are difficult and not

recommended.

Division: For the species that produce clumps over time, it is recommended that dividing

these occurs during the drier dormancy season.

Seed: Easiest way to propagate Petiolaris-Complex Drosera is via seed, although it takes several

years to produce mature plants. Seed germinates readily without any special treatment, if

fresh. Temperatures should be kept warm for seedlings.

The following table of all known Drosera species includes their distribution and cultivation type in order

to facilitate thoughts on care:

Species

Distribution

Cultivation Type

aberrans

Australia

Tuberous

acaulis

South Africa

Tropical

adelae

Australia

Highland Tropical

admirabilis

South Africa

Subtropical

affinis

Tropical Africa

Tropical

afra

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

alba

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

aliciae

South Africa

Tropical

allantostigma

Australia

Pygmy

amazonica

Brazil

Highland Tropical

andersoniana

Australia

Tuberous

androsacea

Australia

Pygmy

anglica

North America, Europe, and Asia

Temperate

aquatica

Australia

Tropical

arcturi

Australia and New Zealand

Temperate

arenicola

Venezuela

Highland Tropical

ascendens

Brazil

Highland Tropical

aurantiaca

Australia

Tropical

auriculata

Australia

Tuberous

australis

Australia

Pygmy

banksii

Australia and New Guinea

Tuberous

barbigera ssp.

barbigera

Australia

Pygmy

barbigera ssp.

silvicola

Australia

Pygmy

barrettorum

Australia

Tropical

basifolia

Australia

Tuberous

bequaertii

Angola and Democratic Republic of the Congo

Tropical

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

bicolor

Australia

Tuberous

binata

Australia and New Zealand

Subtropical/Temperate

bindoon

Australia

Pygmy

brevicornis

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

brevifolia

North America, Central America, and South America

Subtropical

broomensis

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

browniana

Australia

Tuberous

bulbigena

Australia

Tuberous

bulbosa

Australia

Tuberous

burkeana

Tropical Africa

Tropical

burmannii

Australia and Southeast Asia

Tropical

caduca

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

callistos

Australia

Pygmy

calycina

Australia

Tuberous

camporupestris

Brazil

Highland Tropical

capensis

South Africa

Tropical

capillaris

North America, Central America, and South America

Subtropical

cayennensis

Brazil, French Guiana, and Venezuela

Subtropical

cendeensis

Venezuela

Highland Tropical

chrysolepis

Brazil and Peru

Highland Tropical

cistiflora

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

citrina

Australia

Pygmy

closterostigma

Australia

Pygmy

coalara

Australia

Pygmy

coccipetala

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

collina

Australia

Tuberous

collinsiae

South Africa

Tropical

communis

Brazil, Colombia, Paraguay, and Venezuela

Highland Tropical

coomallo

Australia

Pygmy

cucullata

Australia

Tropical

cuneifolia

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

darwinensis

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

depauperata

Australia

Pygmy

derbyensis

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

dichrosepala

Australia

Pygmy

dielsiana

Southern Africa

Tropical

NATCH GREYES

dilatatopetiolaris

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

drummondii

Australia

Tuberous

echinoblastus

Australia

Pygmy

elongata

Angola

Tropical

eneabba

Australia

Pygmy

enodes

Australia

Pygmy

eremaea

Australia

Tuberous

ericgreenii

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

erythrogyne

Australia

Tuberous

erythrorhiza

Australia

Tuberous

esmeraldae

Colombia, Venezuela

Highland Tropical

esperensis

Australia

Tuberous

esterhuyseniae

South Africa

Tropical

falconeri

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

felix

Venezuela

Highland Tropical

filiformis ssp.

filiformis

North America

Temperate

filiformis ssp. tracyi

Florida

Subtropical

fimbriata

Australia

Tuberous

finlaysonia

Australia

Tropical

fragrans

Australia

Tropical

fulva

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

geniculata

Australia

Tuberous

gibsonii

Australia

Pygmy

gigantea

Australia

Tuberous

glabripes

South Africa

Subtropical

glabriscapa

Australia

Tropical

Treat as Highland

glanduligera

Australia

Tropical

gracilis

Australia

Tuberous

graminifolia

Brazil

Highland Tropical

graniticola

Australia

Tuberous

grantsaui

Brazil

Highland Tropical

graomogolensis

Brazil

Highland Tropical

grievei

Australia

Pygmy

hamiltonii

Australia

Subtropical

hartmeyerorum

Australia

Tropical

helodes

Australia

Pygmy

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

heterophylla

Australia

Tuberous

hilaris

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

hirsuta

Australia

Tuberous

hirtella

Brazil

Highland Tropical

hirticalyx

Venezuela

Highland Tropical

hookeri

Australia

Tuberous

huegelii

Australia

Tuberous

humbertii

Madagascar

Tropical

humilis

Australia

Tuberous

hyperostigma

Australia

Pygmy

indica

Tropical Africa and Southeast Asia

Tropical

indumenta

Australia

Tuberous

Temperate Europe, Temperate North America,

intermedia

Tropical South America

Temperate/Tropical

intricata

Australia

Tuberous

kaieteurensis

Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago, and Venezuela

Highland Tropical

katangensis

Democratic Republic of the Congo

Tropical

kenneallyi

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

lanata

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

lasiantha

Australia

Pygmy

leioblastus

Australia

Pygmy

leucoblasta

Australia

Pygmy

leucostigma

Australia

Pygmy

linearis

North America

Temperate

longiscapa

South Africa

Tropical

lowriei

Australia

Tuberous

lunata

Australia

Tuberous

macrantha

Australia

Tuberous

macrophylla

Australia

Tuberous

madagascariensis

Africa

Tropical

magna

Australia

Tuberous

major

Australia

Tuberous

makinoi

Japan

Tropical

mannii

Australia

Pygmy

marchantii

Australia

Tuberous

menziesii

Australia

Tuberous

meristocaulis

Venezuela

Pygmy

NATCH GREYES

micra

Australia

Pygmy

microantha

Australia

Pygmy

microphylla

Australia

Tuberous

microscapa

Australia

Pygmy

miniata

Australia

Pygmy

minutiflora

Australia

Pygmy

modesta

Australia

Tuberous

monantha

Australia

Tuberous

montana

Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay, and Venezuela

Highland Tropical

monticola

Australia

Tuberous

moorei

Australia

Tuberous

murfetii

Australia

Temperate

myriantha

Australia

Tuberous

nana

Australia

Tropical

natalensis

Madagascar, Mozambique, South Africa

Tropical

neesii

Australia

Tuberous

neocaledonica

New Caledonia

Tropical

nidiformis

South Africa

Tropical

nitidula

Australia

Pygmy

nivea

Australia

Pygmy

oblanceolata

Hong Kong

Subtropical

occidentalis

Australia

Pygmy

omissa

Australia

Pygmy

orbiculata

Australia

Tuberous

ordensis

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

oreopodion

Australia

Pygmy

paleacea

Australia

Pygmy

pallida

Australia

Tuberous

paradoxa

Australia

Petiolaris-Complex

patens

Australia

Pygmy

pauciflora

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

pedicellaris

Australia

Pygmy

peltata

Southeast Asia

Tuberous

peruensis

Peru

Highland Tropical

petiolaris

Australia, New Guinea

Petiolaris-Complex

pilosa

Cameroon, Guinea, Kenya, Tanzania

Tropical

planchonii

Australia

Tuberous

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

platypoda

Australia

Tuberous

platystigma

Australia

Pygmy

porrecta

Australia

Tuberous

praefolia

Australia

Tuberous

prolifera

Australia

Highland Tropical

prophylla

Australia

Tuberous

prostrata

Australia

Tuberous

prostratoscaposa

Australia

Tuberous

pulchella

Australia

Pygmy

purpurascens

Australia

Tuberous

pycnoblasta

Australia

Pygmy

pygmaea

Australia, New Zealand

Pygmy

quartzicola

Brazil

Highland Tropical

radicans

Australia

Tuberous

ramellosa

Australia

Tuberous

ramentacea

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

rechingeri

Australia

Pygmy

regia

South Africa

Subtropical

roraimae

Brazil, Guyana, Venezuela

Highland Tropical

roseana

Australia

Pygmy

rosulata

Australia

Tuberous

rotundifolia

North America, Europe, Asia

Temperate

rubrifolia

South Africa

Subtropical

rupicola

Australia

Tuberous

salina

Australia

Tuberous

sargentii

Australia

Pygmy

schizandra

Australia

Highland Tropical

schmutzii

Australia

Tuberous

schwackei

Brazil

Highland Tropical

scorpioides

Australia

Pygmy

serpens

Australia

Tropical

sessilifolia

Brazil, Guyana, Venezuela

Tropical

sewelliae

Australia

Pygmy

silvicola

Australia

Pygmy

slackii

South Africa

Subtropical

solaris

Guyana

Highland Tropical

spatulata

Australia, New Zealand, Southeast Asia

Subtropical

NATCH GREYES

spilos

Australia

Pygmy

spiralis

Brazil

Highland Tropical

squamosa

Australia

Tuberous

stelliflora

Australia

Pygmy

stenopetala

New Zealand

Temperate

stolonifera

Australia

Tuberous

stricticaulis

Australia

Tuberous

subhirtella

Australia

Tuberous

subtilis

Australia

Tuberous

sulphurea

Australia

Tuberous

thysanosepala

Australia

Tuberous

tentaculata

Brazil

Highland Tropical

tokaiensis

Japan

Subtropical

tomentosa

Brazil

Highland Tropical

toyoakensis

Japan

Tropical

trichocaulis

Australia

Pygmy

trinervia

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

tubaestylis

Australia

Tuberous

ultramafica

Southeast Asia

Highland Tropical

uniflora

Argentina, Chile, and Falkland Islands

Temperate

venusta

South Africa

Tropical

verrucata

Australia

Pygmy

villosa

Brazil

Highland Tropical

viridis

Brazil

Highland Tropical

walyunga

Australia

Pygmy

whittakeri

Australia

Tuberous

yilgarnensis

Australia

Tuberous

yutajensis

Venezuela

Highland Tropical

zeyheri

South Africa

Treat as Tuberous

zigzagia

Australia

Tuberous

zonaria

Australia

Tuberous