Cultivating Carnivorous Plants (2015)

CEPHALOTUS

The Albany Pitcher Plant, Cephalotus

follicularis, is one of the most desired and

difficult plants in cultivation. Native to a

small area on the southwestern Australian

coast, its range stretches from Yallingup to

Cheyne Beach from the coastline up to 31

miles (50 kilometers) inland. In the wild,

Cephalotus follicularis can be found growing

on the edges of sloping peat/sand bogs, in

drainage ditches, in copses and, most

famously, within eyesight of the sea at

Coal Mine Beach along a hillside fed by

freshwater seep.

This area’s climate is characterized by

cool, wet winters where temperatures

rarely fall below 40° F (15° C) and warm,

dry summers where temperatures rarely

exceed 77° F (25° C). Although rainfall

drops to less than an inch (2.5

centimeters) a month in the summer,

foggy mornings are common, and

Cephalotus is well adapted to high humidity.

In fact, the scalloped lids of the pitchers

Cephalotus follicularis growing in cultivation, showing a deep

can commonly be seen to close in

purple flush due to exposure to high-intensity light.

environments where the humidity has

dropped too low.

The pitchers of this monotypic genus are small, rarely much larger than an inch and a half

(approximately four centimeters) in mature plants. These pitchers appear at the end of short tendrils springing

from a central rhizome, and appear first as a little, hairy ball. This ball slowly inflates over the course of

several days to weeks to become a leathery pitcher covered in short hairs and three “ribs” leading up to the

prominent crenelated peristome. The peristome appears similar to some in the genus Nepenthes, having

“teeth” that appear to overhang the pitcher. The pitcher is capped by a scalloped lip that serves to prevent the

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

pitcher fluid from becoming diluted.

Oddly, Cephalotus also produces a

second kind of leaf. This second type is

not a pitcher. Instead, it is green and

ovoid. The petiole is short, keeping the

leaf closer to the plant. Until recently,

the reason for production of these kinds

of leaves was a mystery. Recently, it has

been suggested that these leaves are

produced as a consequence of the plant’s

getting crowded out by competing

grasses and other vegetation.

Interestingly, Cephalotus is similar to

Sarracenia in that it is a pioneer species.

Colonies of Cephalotus are among the

first to appear after brushfires sweep

across its native habitat in southwest

Australia. In the years following a

Cephalotus producing large pitchers in cultivation.

brushfire, Cephalotus pitchers emerge en

masse from dormant rhizomes and small rosettes of non-carnivorous leaves. In time, competing grasses and

other vegetation recolonize the area and Cephalotus plants begin producing the small, non-carnivorous leaves.

The plants survive on energy produced by those leaves, and from stored energy in their rhizomes until the

next brushfire sweeps across the habitat. Naturally, this brushfire occurs every ten or so years. Since British

colonization of the southwest coast of Australia, fires have become less frequent. As a consequence, more

and more Cephalotus habitat has been lost to succession.

The flowers of Cephalotus are small, only a

few tenths of an inch (millimeters) across,

white, and appear atop stalks 23 inches (60

centimeters) tall in early summer. Although the

flowers can self-pollinate, a better seed set is

obtained through cross-pollination. Between

six and ten seeds can be expected per flower. A

few dozen flowers will appear atop each stalk.

Cephalotus seeds are small, brown, and

hairy. The dense hair on the seeds indicate that

they are meant to be dispersed via the wind.

Seeds remain viable for only a few months and

will germinate at a higher rate after a cool

stratification period simulating the winter

weather in southwestern Australia. They will

germinate once temperatures reach 68° F (20°

C) during the day. They grow slowly, taking

Cephalotus with gigantic, hand-sized pitchers.

several years to become mature plants.

NATCH GREYES

In Cultivation

Cephalotus is somewhat unique in the carnivorous plant world in that there is only one species in the

entire genus, and not much variation is found within that species. Unlike Darlingtonia, which has some well-

known variations, including an anthocyanin free (all-green) variant, no such similar variations have been

found in Cephalotus populations to date.

In both the wild

and in cultivation,

pitchers exposed to

insufficient light are

entirely

green

(or

mostly so) and will

grow

larger

than

pitchers grown in

intense light. Unlike

some other genera,

full-grown Cephalotus

pitchers can slowly be

exposed

intense light and turn

as brilliant a red as

those

that

were

originally

grown

under intense light.

As a consequence,

cultivars

designated

on the basis of

coloration alone are

probably invalid.

The one real

variation in Cephalotus

is pitcher size. Some

plants

can

grow

A young Cephalotus, from a leaf pulling, potted alongside two mature Drosera

pitchers up to four

hamiiltonii plants. In the wild, both Cephalotus and Drosera hamiltonii can be

inches (10 cm) in

found growing alongside each other in the Australian outback.

length, far larger than

average. At present,

the problem with most Cephalotus cultivars (whether formally described or not) is that the species is so

reactive to micro-climates that it is often difficult for growers to reproduce similar traits from clones of

supposed cultivars. Often, growers will find their plants exhibiting slightly different traits depending on subtle

variations in the environment. This has led to some controversy about whether any cultivars of Cephalotus

actually exist at all.

CULTIVATING CARNIVOROUS PLANTS

Cephalotus growing near Coal Mine Beach, Australia.9

NATCH GREYES

Regardless of whether there are cultivars of Cephalotus or not, the rule of thumb for cultivation is that

stale water or air results in a dead plant. That said, my standard growing guide for Cephalotus follows:

● Media: There is no one good mixture for Cephalotus, but most mixtures are half perlite, a quarter

sphagnum peat, and a quarter of mixed ingredients which can include charcoal, sand, orchid bark,

and/or Coir (coconut fiber). Personally, I have found that a bit of live sphagnum dressing helps

create a higher ambient humidity, which leads to good pitcher formation.

● Moisture: Moisture is, generally, the biggest problem with cultivating Cephalotus. Cephalotus sometimes

experiences what many growers have termed “sudden death syndrome.” The cause is thought to be

excessive moisture. Some growers have had success avoiding this syndrome by only top watering,

and not letting the plant sit in a tray of water. Others only use the tray method, sometimes watering

with aerated water, thinking water on the crown can cause the plant to rot. Still others aerate water

before carefully watering the plant to avoid the crown. None of these methods has been proven to

avoid sudden death syndrome, and what method works for which grower is a constant experiment.

● Humidity: Cephalotus requires high humidity. In lower than ideal humidity conditions, the lid of the

pitcher will close on top of the pitcher, in order to avoid the evaporation of pitcher fluid.

● Pot Size: Cephalotus should be over-potted for best results. It dislikes frequent repotting, so it is

advisable to start a plant out in a plastic pot, with drain holes, several inches larger than the plant in

diameter.

● Feeding: Fertilizing Cephalotus is not recommended. Plants may, however, be fed insects, preferably

their natural prey, ants. I would recommend only an ant or two per mature pitcher.

● Temperature: Although Cephalotus is tolerant of a wide range of temperatures, day temperatures of

75° F (24° C) and night temperatures of 55° F (13° C) are ideal.

● Dormancy: Dormancy is not necessary for long-term success, but many growers find it easy to place

Cephalotus in a cool dormancy where temperatures do not fall below freezing or exceed 55° F (13° C).

● Propagation: Cephalotus can be propagated through seed, leaf-pullings, division, or root cuttings.

○ Seed: The slowest way to propagate Cephalotus is through seeds. As stated above, Cephalotus

seed is viable for only a short period of time, is best germinated after a cool stratification

period, and it will take several years for a mature plant to result from seed sewn on a suitable

medium.

○ Leaf-pullings: Leaf-pullings are the easiest and most common method of propagation. The

best way to propagate Cephalotus through leaf-pullings is to use a non-carnivorous leaf. The

leaf will be pulled from the rhizome, with as much of the rhizome still attached as possible.

Then, soak the leaf in a solution of Superthrive for an hour and/or fungicide for ten minutes

and/or Trichoderma solution for ten minutes. After soaking, place on top of suitable media,

cover the rhizome end with a little bit of media, and place in a shaded area that stays around

75° F (24° C). It may be beneficial to cover the pot, slightly, with plastic wrap to increase

ambient humidity, but watch for signs of rot. Humidity must be high for roots to sprout.

○ Division: As with Sarracenia or Heliamphora, Cephalotus may be divided. This is best done during

dormancy, shortly before spring growth begins. Divide the crown in as many pieces as there

are growth points, while trying to keep as much of the root system intact as possible.

○ Root Cuttings: Perhaps the riskiest way of propagating Cephalotus is via root cuttings. An inch

long (2.5 centimeter) section of healthy rhizome may be removed from a growing plant. This

should be soaked in a fungicide and/or Trichoderma solution for ten minutes before being laid

horizontally on top of a suitable medium. The root should then be covered with a few

millimeters of media. Growth should appear in a few weeks.