Z - SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z - The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs - Padma Lakshmi

The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs: An Essential Guide to the Flavors of the World - Padma Lakshmi (2016)

SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z

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PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Lebanese za’atar, Jordanian za’atar, Israeli za’atar, dried za’atar (herb), zedoary, and Syrian za’atar

ZA’ATAR

BOTANICAL NAME: Thymbra spicata

OTHER NAMES: wild mountain thyme, Lebanese oregano, Syrian marjoram

OTHER SPELLINGS: Zahtar

FORMS: fresh and dried leaves

The herb za’atar, not to be confused with the Middle Eastern spice mix of the same name (see next page), is a type of wild thyme that grows on hillsides and mountains in the eastern and southern Mediterranean regions. It has a pungent aroma and an intense flavor that is something like that of a mix of oregano, thyme, and marjoram—hence some of its other common names. Za’atar, which retains its herbal pungency when dried, is included in most but not all versions of the spice blend. Mixed with other herbs or seasonings, it makes a good rub for grilled meats, such as lamb, and poultry; it can also be added to marinades for grilled fish, meat, or poultry. Dried za’atar is very good blended with olive oil and drizzled over flatbreads. The fresh herb is often an ingredient in the fillings for borek, the savory phyllo-dough pastry popular in Turkey and many Middle Eastern countries.

ZA’ATAR

OTHER SPELLINGS: Zahtar

Za’atar is an aromatic spice mix that is popular throughout the Middle East. (Somewhat confusingly, za’atar is also the word for wild thyme; see above.) The blend has many variations, depending on the cook and the region. The most basic version is made with thyme, sumac, toasted sesame seeds, and usually salt, but other spices such as coriander or herbs such as marjoram may be included. Za’atar is delicious sprinkled over warm flatbreads that have been brushed with olive oil; it is often incorporated into flatbread doughs before baking. In Syria, some families bring their own custom blends to their neighborhood bakery for their breads. Za’atar can be mixed with oil and brushed over baked breads or served as a dip or condiment. It is also used as a seasoning for kebabs, and it can be sprinkled over or stirred into labneh or strained yogurt.

ZEDOARY

BOTANICAL NAMES: Curcuma zedoaria, C. zerumbet

OTHER NAMES: wild turmeric, amb halad

FORMS: dried slices and ground

Zedoary is a rhizome that is related to ginger, galangal, and turmeric. Sources differ as to its origins—India, Indonesia, China, and/or Southeast Asia—but today it primarily grows in India and Indonesia, and it is little known beyond these regions. There are two types of zedoary, distinguished only by their shape: C. zedoaria rhizomes are round and fat, looking more like ginger, and C. zerumbet is longer and thinner, resembling turmeric. Amb halad is its common Indian name, though it is also known as manga inji, meaning “mango ginger.” It is sometimes called kentjur or kencur in Indonesia, but that name is more correctly applied to a type of galangal.

Zedoary is harvested in much the same way as turmeric, but it is usually sliced before drying, to speed up the process. The skin of the fresh rhizome is tan or yellowish and the interior is yellow. Dried sliced zedoary is grayish-brown; ground zedoary is light brown. The aroma is warm, musky, and similar to that of ginger, with an undertone of camphor; the taste is very similar to that of ginger. (Fresh zedoary sometimes has the fragrance of mangoes—amb is the word for mango in many parts of India.)

Zedoary is an old spice, and it was used in European kitchens in the Middle Ages, but it is more difficult to cultivate than ginger or galangal, and both of these came to be favored over zedoary. It is still used in seafood curries and some other dishes in Southeast Asia, especially Indonesia, and in southern India. Ground zedoary, called shoti in parts of India, is used as a thickener in various dishes. Zedoary extract is an ingredient in Swedish bitters, a traditional herbal tonic.

MEDICINAL USES: Zedoary is a digestive and is also used to relieve indigestion, nausea, and other types of gastrointestinal distress. An “instant tea” made with ground zedoary and boiling water is often recommended for such complaints.

ZERESHK

See Barberry.

ZHUG/ZHOUG

See Charmoula and Other Spice Pastes.