I Love Soup: More Than 100 of the World's Most Delicious and Nutritious Recipes - Beverly LeBlanc (2016)

INTRODUCTION

As I spent several cold, grey winter months totally immersed in reading about, thinking about, writing about, making and eating soup, I came to appreciate how the universal popularity of soup comes not only from its ability to satisfy, warm and comfort, but also from its great versatility. The term ‘soup’ embraces many different liquid-based dishes, from thin, clear delicately flavoured broths to big steaming bowls of noodles, meat, poultry and vegetables. They can be righteously health conscious or indulgent, filling feasts-in-a-bowl. Consequently, whatever the time of the year and whatever the occasion there is always a suitable soup recipe.

As you work your way through this book, I’m sure you will soon appreciate how much soups have going for them. It doesn’t matter if you are an accomplished family cook, or a bright young singleton juggling work and a hectic social life, you can make delicious soups. I believe mealtimes should be pleasurable whatever your time constraints, and soups provide quick-and-easy meals in a hurry or more substantial, satisfying repasts when time allows.

Supermarkets and fast-food outlets provide plenty of prepared soup options, but the case for making your own soups is unbeatable. From a straightforward financial perspective, you’ll save lots of money. Many of the recipes in this book, for example, make 4-6 servings for less than the cost of a single pot of soup from my favourite deli. Although globalization gives us the opportunity to find virtually any ingredient all year round, the old adage that cooking with the seasons saves you money still holds true. Even if you are a devoted meat-eater, the Vegetable & Grain chapter offers plenty of scope for taking advantage of produce when it is most prolific and, therefore, least expensive. Soups also provide a wonderful way of transforming leftovers into a second meal, cutting down on waste, as well as your shopping bills.

The overriding benefit of getting into the habit of making soups on a regular basis, however, is that you can have exactly what you want, when you want it. Are you a champion of organic, free-range and sustainable farming? Choose your ingredients accordingly and it is easy to eat well following your principles. If your main concern is to protect your family from ingesting the additives contained in processed foods, homemade soups are for you. To tempt fussy young eaters into getting a good mix of vegetables in their daily diet, try Golden Carrot & Sesame Soup (see page 135), or any of the farmers’ market soups (see pages 119, 128-129 and 147), all of which adults will enjoy just as much.

Most of the recipes in this book can be cooked in large batches and frozen, making them perfect for lunches on the go. Many are complete meals in themselves, with a combination of protein and starch. You won’t have to do much more cooking to ensure you eat a balanced meal. A bowl of soup with a hunk of good bread - and I’ve included recipes for several breads and rolls that even a novice can master - gives more than just the nutrients you need to get through the day, all for very little effort and very little expense.

The recipes make 4-6 servings (4 adult-size bowls, often with a little left for seconds, or 6 children-size portions). After you’ve made a few recipes, I’m sure you’ll soon realize if you need to scale up or scale down the quantities for your requirements.

When I was planning this book I looked North, South, East and West for inspiration; the result is a mix of international flavours. This is a collection of my favourite soup recipes that I hope you will love as much as I loved writing them.

THE TECHNIQUES

Making stock for soups - Stock is the liquid that gives extra depth of flavour to many soups. It is perfectly possible to make delicious, satisfying bowls of soup without stock - the Aegean Red Mullet Soup (see page 90) and Oxtail Soup with Barley (see page 31) are two great examples - but most soups rely on stock for their final taste.

The quality of the stock you use determines the quality of your soup, and deciding which stock to use in a recipe is arguably the most important step of the process. You have several options, ranging from homemade stock to prepared fresh stocks from the supermarket, concentrated liquid stocks to be diluted with water, concentrated gelled stocks and powders and, finally, the ubiquitous stock/bouillon cube. The choice is personal, but least suitable is the stock/bouillon cube, because of its high salt content and metallic taste from the additives and preservatives. Using homemade stock, on the other hand, gives you total control over the quality of all the ingredients that go into your soup, but it is the most time-consuming option. This is why most recipes in this book specify a homemade stock or a ready-made option - the choice is yours.

Homemade stock is easily made by simmering meat, poultry or seafood bones and trimmings, vegetables and other flavourings, such as herbs and spices. The process extracts the colours, flavours and nutrients from the ingredients, all of which are then transferred to your soup. Stock-making can be a very enjoyable time in the kitchen. It is an undemanding task, and the result is satisfying. Once you’ve made a large pot of stock, you can also use it to flavour sauces and stews.

The stock recipes in this book make larger quantities than specified in most recipes. This is because stock can easily be frozen in portions, and once I’ve decided to make a homemade stock, I might as well make enough to freeze several portions. If you don’t have much freezer space, leave the stock to simmer, uncovered, for longer until half the quantity is left, which will have a concentrated flavour. Then leave this rich, intensely flavoured liquid to cool completely and freeze it in ice cube trays. Use each cube straight from the freezer with enough cold water to complete 300ml/10½fl oz/1¼ cups of the stock specified in the recipe.

TOP TIPS FOR TOP STOCKS

✵‘Take stock and then make stock’ is sage advice. Stock-making is a good way to utilize vegetables past their prime but not yet ready for the compost bin. Vegetable trimmings, such as mushroom trimmings, tomato skins and onion skins (which give stock a richer, golden brown colour) are also excellent additions. Do not, however, include rotten or mouldy vegetables.

✵Do not include potatoes in stocks because they make the liquid cloudy.

✵Always break or chop bones before using them in stock. This gives the finished stock its slightly gelatinous texture that elevates soups made with homemade stock above ready-made versions.

✵Trimmings from flat fish, such as plaice/ flounder or sole, make excellent stock. Ask a fishmonger for these. They will likely be free or very inexpensive. Do not, however, include bones, heads or trimmings from oily fish in fish stocks.

✵If you don’t have time to make stock after roasting a chicken or large piece of beef on the bone, freeze the bones. Also freeze fish heads, bones and trimmings, and prawn/shrimp shells.

✵Never let a fish, meat or poultry stock boil, or it will turn cloudy.

✵Take care not to over-season stocks or your soup will be too salty. Use only a small amount of salt at the beginning of cooking to draw out the flavour of the other ingredients. Do not season it again. This is especially important if you intend to reduce the stock before freezing.

✵Add the flavouring ingredients, such as chopped vegetables, herbs and spices, after you have finished skimming the surface.

Skimming soups and stocks - Stocks cook largely unattended, but your attention is most required toward the beginning of the process. As meat, seafood or poultry bones and trimmings are slowly heated to just below the boil, impurities are released and a grey scum appears on the surface. Use a large metal spoon, a slotted spoon or a round, perforated skimmer to remove this scum from the surface and discard it before adding the other flavouring ingredients. Take care not to remove too much of the liquid. Skimming can be a slow process, taking up to 30 minutes, but after you’ve finished this step you can leave the stock to gently simmer on its own. Pulses/legumes and vegetables also give off impurities while they simmer, but it isn’t necessary to remove these. After you purée pulses, however, the thick layer of ‘foam’ that rises to the surface should be removed.

Storing stocks - Stocks are ready to use immediately after cooking. Alternatively, leave them to cool completely, then cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

Adding flavour to soups with cheese rinds and ham hocks - Use natural hard cheese rinds to add an intense but subtle flavour to slowly simmered soups. Simply scrub off any markings, wrap them in cling film/plastic wrap and freeze them until you’re ready to use them. Add a piece of rind to your soup and simmer for anywhere from 10 minutes to several hours - the longer the rind simmers the more likely it is to totally dissolve into the soup. When ready to serve the soup, use a slotted spoon to fish out the soft rind, and either discard it or cut it into small pieces to sprinkle over the soup. Parmesan, pecorino, mature Cheddar and any other hard cheese with a natural rind all work well. Do not use wax-covered rinds.

The end of a Parma/prosciutto or Serrano ham also contains lots of flavour, even if not enough meat for cooks to bother slicing. They can be used to add ‘meatiness’ to soups without the expense. You will find these at meat counters and delis, and often you will be given them for free. After gentle simmering, remove the meat from the rind and any bones and finely shred it over the soup. Most cheese rinds and ham hocks are salty, so don’t add extra salt until the end of the cooking process.

Making a bouquet garni - A bouquet garni is a bundle of fresh herbs, and often other ingredients, used to flavour soups. Tying the herbs together in a ‘bouquet’ with a piece of string makes it easier to remove them at the end of cooking. Always lightly crush the herb stalks with the back of a knife because they usually have more flavour than the leaves. If you don’t have fresh herbs available, put dried herbs in a square of muslin/cheesecloth and use a piece of string to secure it closed.

Chargrilling, roasting and peeling peppers - To chargrill peppers, preheat the grill/broiler to high and lightly grease the grill/broiler rack. Halve the peppers lengthways and remove the cores and seeds. Put the peppers, cut-sides down, on the grill/broiler rack and grill/broil until lightly charred. Transfer to a bowl, cover with a clean, folded dish towel and leave to cool, then peel.

To roast peppers, preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7. Prepare the peppers as above, put them in a baking dish and roast for 40-45 minutes until lightly charred. Remove from the oven and prepare for peeling as above.

Peeling, deseeding and grating tomatoes - Cut a small cross in the bottom of each tomato using a sharp knife, put them in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to stand for 2-3 minutes, then drain. Use a small knife to peel off the skins and discard them. To deseed the tomato, cut it in half lengthways and use a small spoon to scoop out the core and seeds.

A quicker way to peel tomatoes is to grate them on the coarse side of a box grater, pressing firmly, and then discard the skin and core. The disadvantage, however, is that the tomato pulp will also include all the seeds.

Toasting nuts and seeds - Toasting gives nuts and seeds a deeper flavour. Heat a dry frying pan over a high heat until hot. Arrange the nuts or seeds in a single layer and dry-fry, stirring continuously, for about 2 minutes until they start turning golden and you can smell the aroma. Immediately transfer to a plate to prevent them from overbrowning or burning. Toasted nuts and seeds can be stored in airtight containers in a dark cupboard for up to 3 months.

Judicious seasoning - You can always add extra seasoning, but it’s very difficult to mask the flavour of too much seasoning. Most of the recipes in this book season at an initial stage of cooking to draw out the flavours of the ingredients. Do this very lightly because you will adjust the salt and pepper again before serving. Always cook potatoes and rice in salted water, but season dried pulses/ legumes after cooking so the salt doesn’t draw out the moisture acquired during soaking.

If you accidentally over-season a soup, add a little sugar or, if suitable, boil a peeled and chopped floury/russet potato in the soup. Taste soups before puréeing - you can always discard half the stock and replace it with fresh, unseasoned stock for a less salty taste, if necessary, at that point.

BASIC RECIPES

BEEF STOCK

MAKES about 2l/70fl oz/2 quarts

PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus overnight chilling (optional)

COOKING TIME 7 hours

2.5kg/5½lb beef bones, chopped into large pieces (ask the butcher to do this)

3 large unpeeled onions, quartered

3 carrots, coarsely chopped

2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped

4 large garlic cloves, lightly crushed

1 bouquet garni made with 1 bay leaf and several parsley and thyme sprigs tied together

1 tbsp tomato purée/paste

12 black peppercorns, lightly crushed

a small pinch of salt

Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Gas 8. Put the bones in a heavy-based roasting pan and roast for 50 minutes-1 hour until browned all over.

Stir in the onions, carrots and celery and roast for another 30-40 minutes until the vegetables are very tender and browned. Watch closely so they do not burn.

Transfer the bones and vegetables to a heavy stockpot and add 4.5l/157fl oz/4½ quarts water. Bring to the boil, uncovered, over a high heat, skimming the surface. This can take up to 20 minutes. When the foam stops rising, add the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, covered, for 5 hours. Do not let the liquid boil. Skim the surface occasionally, if necessary.

Very carefully strain the stock through a muslin-lined/ cheesecloth-lined colander into a large bowl and discard all the flavourings. Skim any fat from the surface and use immediately. Alternatively, leave the stock to cool completely, then cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, use a large metal spoon to ‘scrape’ the congealed fat off the surface. Once cool, the stock will be lightly gelled. See page 9 for storage information.

RICH CHICKEN STOCK

MAKES about 2l/70fl oz/2 quarts

PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus overnight chilling (optional)

COOKING TIME 2½ hours

2 celery stalks, with the leaves, coarsely chopped

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

1 large onion, peeled but left whole

1 bouquet garni made with 2 bay leaves and several parsley and thyme sprigs tied together

1 chicken, about 1.5kg/3½lb

6 black peppercorns, lightly crushed a small pinch of salt

Put the celery, carrot, onion, bouquet garni and 1.5l/52fl oz/6½ cups water in a stockpot. Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then add the remaining ingredients and 1l/35fl oz/4½ cups water, or enough to cover the chicken. Bring the liquid to just below the boil, skimming the surface as necessary. Do not let the liquid boil.

Reduce the heat to very low, cover and simmer for 1¾-2¼ hours until the meat almost falls off the bones.

Remove the chicken from the pot and set aside for another use. Strain the stock into a bowl and discard the flavourings. Skim the fat from the surface and use immediately. Alternatively, leave the stock to cool completely, then cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, use a large metal spoon to ‘scrape’ the congealed fat off the surface. Once cooled, it will be slightly gelled. See page 9 for storage information.

CHICKEN STOCK

MAKES about 2l/70fl oz/2 quarts

PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes

COOKING TIME 3¼ hours

carcass and bones of 1 cooked chicken, or 900g/2lb mixed chicken bones, chopped

1 carrot, peeled and sliced

1 celery stalk, with the leaves, sliced

1 bouquet garni made with 1 bay leaf and several parsley and thyme sprigs tied together

6 black peppercorns, slightly crushed

a small pinch of salt

Put the chicken and 2.5l/88fl oz/2½ quarts water in a heavy stockpot. Bring to just below the boil, skimming the surface as necessary. When the foam has stopped rising, add the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, covered, for 3 hours. Do not let the liquid boil. Skim the surface occasionally, if necessary.

Very carefully strain the stock into a bowl and discard the flavourings. Skim any fat from the surface and use immediately, or leave it to cool completely. Once cool it will be slightly gelled. See page 9 for storage information.

TURKEY STOCK Prepare and store as Chicken Stock but use broken turkey bones.

GAME STOCK Prepare and store as Chicken Stock but use the bones from roast partridge, pheasant or other game birds, reduce the water to 1.5l/52fl oz/6½ cups and reduce the simmering time to 1½ hours. Makes about 1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups.

FISH STOCK

MAKES about 2l/70fl oz/2 quarts

PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes

COOKING TIME 30 minutes

1kg/2¼lb fish heads, bones and trimmings from white fish, such as hake, halibut, plaice/flounder or whiting, well rinsed to remove any blood and chopped

150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup dry white wine

1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

1 large leek, thinly sliced and rinsed

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 bouquet garni made with several parsley sprigs and 1 bay leaf tied together

½ lemon, thinly sliced

1 tsp black peppercorns, lightly crushed

a small pinch of salt

Put the fish heads, bones and trimmings in a large saucepan. Add the wine and 2l/70fl oz/2 quarts water, cover and bring to just below the boil, skimming the surface as necessary. Add the remaining ingredients, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes.

Very carefully strain the stock into a bowl and discard the flavourings. The stock is now ready to use. See page 9 for storage information.

VEGETABLE STOCK

MAKES about 2l/70fl oz/2 quarts

PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes

COOKING TIME 45 minutes

2 tbsp olive, hemp or sunflower oil

4 celery stalks, with the leaves, chopped

2 carrots, coarsely chopped

2 onions, finely chopped

1 leek, sliced and rinsed

6 garlic cloves

1 small tomato, chopped

1 bouquet garni made with 1 bay leaf and several parsley and thyme sprigs tied together

12 black peppercorns, lightly crushed

½ tsp salt

onion skins (optional)

Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in the celery, carrots, onions and leek, then reduce the heat to very low and cook, covered, for 10-15 minutes until very soft. Add the remaining ingredients and 2.2l/77fl oz/2¼ quarts water, then cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 20 minutes.

Very carefully strain the stock into a bowl and discard all the flavourings. The stock is now ready to use. See page 9 for storage information.

DASHI

MAKES about 1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups

PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes, plus 30 minutes soaking

COOKING TIME 20 minutes

25cm/10in piece of dried kombu

10g/¼oz/⅔ cup bonito (fish) flakes

Put the kombu and 1.4l/48fl oz/6 cups water in a saucepan and leave to soak for 30 minutes.

Bring to the boil, uncovered. As soon as it boils, skim the surface, then add the bonito flakes. Skim the surface again, if necessary. Reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes.

Strain the dashi into a large bowl and use immediately. Alternatively, leave to cool, then store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Freezing isn’t recommended for more than 2 weeks as it will lose much of its flavour.

VEGETARIAN DASHI Omit the bonito flakes in the above recipe. Instead soak 8 dried shiitake mushrooms in 1.4l/48fl oz/6 cups hot water for at least 30 minutes. Put the mushrooms and the soaking liquid in a saucepan. Add the kombu and leave to soak for 30 minutes. Slowly bring to the boil, uncovered. As soon as it boils, skim the surface, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Strain through a muslin-lined/cheesecloth-lined sieve, and use the dashi as above.

INSTANT DASHI Many good-quality powdered dashi mixes are sold in Japanese food shops, wholefood shops and on the internet. Follow the instructions on the package, which is usually to dissolve 2 teaspoons powder in 1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups water. If you are a vegetarian, check the labelling closely, or ask an assistant (it will be written in Japanese), because instant dashi is made with and without bonito flakes.

BEEF CONSOMMÉ

MAKES 1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups

PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus 30 minutes chilling and slow straining

COOKING TIME 50 minutes

280g/10oz boneless shin of beef, minced/ground

1 carrot, peeled and diced

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

1 leek, thinly sliced and rinsed

3 egg whites

1 tbsp tomato purée/paste

1.5l/52fl oz/6½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix the minced/ground beef, carrot, celery and leek together in a large bowl. Beat the egg whites in another bowl until frothy, then add the tomato purée/paste and mix together. Add this mixture to the minced/ground beef and stir together until well combined. Cover and chill for 30 minutes.

Pour the stock into a saucepan, add the chilled egg-white mixture and season with salt and pepper. Slowly bring to the boil, stirring. As soon as the liquid is frothy, stop stirring. When the liquid comes to the boil, immediately reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, without stirring, for 30-40 minutes until a solid crust forms.

Meanwhile, line a sieve with muslin/cheesecloth and set over a large bowl. Gently poke a hole in the centre of the crust to see if the stock is sparkling clear. When the stock is clear, increase the hole in the crust and use a ladle to transfer the stock through the muslin-lined/ cheesecloth-lined sieve: do not push it through or squeeze the cloth. Once strained, the consommé is ready to use. Alternatively, leave to cool completely, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days or freeze for up to 6 months.

CHICKEN CONSOMMÉ Make as above but replace the stock with Chicken Stock (see page 12) and the meat with very finely chopped or minced/ground boneless, skinless chicken legs.

ACCOMPANIMENTS

BIG WHITE LOAF

MAKES 1 large loaf

PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus kneading, 3 risings and cooling

COOKING TIME 40 minutes

450g/1lb/3¼ cups strong white/white bread flour, plus extra for dusting

1½ tsp easy-blend/instant dried yeast

1 tsp sugar

2 tsp salt

30g/1oz/2 tbsp butter, at room temperature and diced

sunflower oil, for greasing

1 egg yolk, beaten, for glazing

The day before you plan to bake, put 150g/5½oz/ heaped 1 cup of the flour, 1 teaspoon of the yeast and ½ teaspoon of the sugar in a mixing bowl. Slowly pour in 100ml/3½fl oz/7 tbsp water heated to 43°C/110°F and mix together. It will form a thick, sticky mixture. Cover the bowl with cling film/plastic wrap, then set aside for at least 8 hours, or until the mixture appears softer and has bubbles on the surface.

The next day, add the remaining flour, yeast, sugar and the salt, and stir together. Stir in the butter and make a well in the centre. Pour 175ml/6fl oz/¾ cup water heated to 43°C/110°F into the well and mix, gradually incorporating the flour from the side to make a soft, sticky dough. Slowly add up to 4 tablespoons extra water, if required, to make a soft dough.

Knead the dough in the bowl until a ball forms, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until it is elastic, no longer sticky and the butter has melted into the dough. Shape it into a ball.

Wash and dry the bowl and very lightly rub with oil. Put the dough ball in the bowl and roll it around so it is lightly coated with oil, then cover the bowl with cling film/plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until the dough doubles in volume, which can take up to 2 hours. Meanwhile, heavily dust a baking sheet with extra flour. Punch down the dough, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and roll around for 1-2 minutes.

Pat the dough into a rectangle about 20 × 12cm/ 8 × 4½in. Fold the top edge down to the centre and press firmly. Fold the bottom edge up over the top, as if folding a letter, and press firmly. Turn the loaf over and roll it into a 25cm/10in oval shape with tapered ends. Place the loaf on the prepared baking sheet, cover with a dish towel and leave to rise until it doubles in volume. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7.

Very lightly brush the surface of the dough with the beaten egg: take care not to knock out any of the air. Using a very sharp thin knife, make 2 shallow, long diagonal cuts on the surface.

Immediately put the bread in the oven and bake for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to190°C/375°F/Gas 5 and bake for a further 30-35 minutes until the loaf is risen, golden brown and the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Leave the loaf to cool completely on a wire/ cooling rack. This bread will keep fresh for 3 days in an airtight container, or can be frozen for up to 6 months.

BIG BROWN LOAF Make as above but replace half (or all) the white flour with strong wholemeal/ wholewheat bread flour.

WHOLEMEAL IRISH SODA BREAD

MAKES 1 loaf

PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes, plus cooling

COOKING TIME 40 minutes

450g/1lb/3¼ cups strong wholemeal/wholewheat bread flour, plus extra for dusting

2 tsp sugar

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp bicarbonate of soda/baking soda

55g/2oz/¼ cup butter, at room temperature and diced

300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups buttermilk, plus extra, if needed

1 egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas 7 and heavily flour a baking sheet. Stir the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and bicarbonate of soda/baking soda together. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs, then make a well in the centre.

Pour in the buttermilk, add the egg and mix together. Gradually stir in flour from the side and mix until a thick dough forms, adding a little extra buttermilk, if necessary.

Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and pat into a large ball. Place the dough ball on the prepared baking sheet and make 2 diagonal cuts across the top with a very sharp thin knife, each about 2cm/¾in deep.

Put the baking sheet in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6 and continue baking for 25-30 minutes until the bottom sounds hollow when tapped. Transfer the bread to a wire/cooling rack and leave to cool for 10-15 minutes, then wrap in a dish towel and leave to cool completely. This bread is best eaten on the day it is baked but it can be stored in an airtight container for up to a day, or can be frozen for up to 6 months.

WHITE IRISH SODA BREAD Make as above but replace the flour with strong white/white bread flour.

PULL-APARTS

MAKES 12

PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus kneading, 2 risings and cooling

COOKING TIME 35 minutes

225g/8oz/1⅔ cups strong white/white bread flour, plus extra for dusting

225g/8oz/1⅔ cups strong wholemeal/wholewheat bread flour

2 tbsp cornflour/cornstarch

1½ tbsp soft light brown sugar

1½ tsp easy-blend/instant dried yeast

1½ tsp salt

30g/1oz/2 tbsp butter, at room temperature and diced

150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup milk

olive oil or hemp oil, for greasing the bowl and for brushing the rolls

Stir the flours, cornflour/cornstarch, sugar, yeast and salt together. Stir in the butter and make a well in the centre. Mix the milk with 125ml/4fl oz/½ cup water and heat to 43°C/110°F. Slowly pour the liquid into the well and mix, gradually incorporating the flour from the side to make a soft, sticky dough.

Knead the dough in the bowl until a ball forms, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until no longer sticky and the butter has melted into the dough. Shape it into a ball.

Wash and dry the bowl and very lightly rub with oil. Put the dough ball in the bowl and roll it around so it is lightly coated with oil, then cover the bowl with cling film/plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until the dough doubles in volume, which can take up to 2 hours. Meanwhile, dust a baking sheet and set aside.

Punch down the dough, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and roll it around for 1-2 minutes. Cut the dough into 12 equal pieces and roll each piece of dough into a smooth ball. Arrange the balls on the prepared baking sheet in a rectangle shape of 3 rows with 4 balls each, gently pushed together and touching. Cover with a dish towel and leave to rise until the rolls double in volume, which depends on the room temperature. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4.

Put the rolls in the oven and bake for 30-35 minutes until risen and brown on top. Remove the baking sheet from the oven, place a dish towel over the rolls with a wire/ cooling rack very gently on top of that. Wearing oven gloves, invert the baking sheet and wire/cooling rack, then tap the rolls on the bottom - if they sound hollow they are baked. If not, return them to the oven and bake for a further 5 minutes before re-testing. Transfer the rolls to a wire/cooling rack, brush with oil and leave to cool completely. These rolls will keep fresh for 3 days in an airtight container, or can be frozen for up to 6 months.

MINI PULL-APARTS (for children) - Make as above, but cut the dough into 24 equal pieces rather than 12. Bake for 20-25 minutes and test as above.

HERB GRISSINI

MAKES about 60

PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes, plus kneading, 2 risings and cooling

COOKING TIME 20 minutes

350g/12oz/2½ cups strong white/white bread flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tbsp salt

¾ tsp easy-blend/instant dried yeast

a pinch of sugar

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing and brushing

1 tbsp very finely chopped rosemary needles

½ tsp chopped marjoram leaves

freshly ground black pepper

Stir the flour, salt, yeast and sugar together. Make a well in the centre, add the olive oil and 175ml/6fl oz/ ¾ cup water heated to 43°C/110°F, holding back about 2 tablespoons of the water, and mix slowly. Gradually incorporate the flour from the side to make a soft dough.

Knead the dough in the bowl until a ball forms, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 minutes, or until it is elastic and no longer sticky, slowly adding the reserved liquid or a little extra flour, if necessary. Knead in the rosemary and marjoram.

Shape the dough into a ball. Wash and dry the bowl and very lightly rub with oil. Put the dough ball in the bowl and roll it around so it is lightly coated with oil. Cover the bowl with cling film/plastic wrap or a folded dish towel and set aside in a warm place until the dough doubles in volume, which can take up to 2 hours.

Brush two or three baking sheets with oil and set aside. Punch down the dough, then turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it for 1-2 minutes. Cut the dough into 4 equal pieces. Lightly flour a rolling pin and roll a piece of dough until it is about 30cm/12in long and 5mm/¼in thick. Using a ruler and pizza cutter or a knife, cut out fifteen 5mm/¼in-wide strips.

Very lightly flour a work surface with a bit of texture, such as a wooden or plastic chopping board. Put a dough strip on the surface and roll it back and forth, stretching the height to around 30-38cm/12-15in. Place the grissini on one of the prepared baking sheets (about 5mm/¼in apart) and continue shaping the remaining grissini. Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5, then brush the grissini with oil and cover lightly with a dish towel. Set aside to rise while the oven warms up. Baking in batches if necessary, bake for about 20 minutes, or until the grissini are crisp and golden brown. Gently transfer the grissini to a wire/cooling rack and leave to cool completely. Store for up to 3 days in an airtight container.

POLENTA DUMPLINGS

MAKES 12 or 24 dumplings

PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes

COOKING TIME 15 minutes

300g/10½oz/2 cups medium polenta

55g/2oz/scant ½ cup self-raising/self-rising flour, plus extra for shaping

½ tsp baking powder

3 tbsp finely chopped parsley or dill

¼ tsp salt

1 egg, beaten

3 tbsp milk

1 tbsp olive or hemp oil, plus extra if making the dumplings in advance

These can be shaped and cooked up to 1 day in advance. Mix the polenta, flour, baking powder, parsley and salt in a bowl. Make a well in the centre, add the egg, milk and oil, then gradually beat together until a thick, crumbly dough forms. Lightly flour your hands and divide the mixture into 12 or 24 equal pieces. Roll into balls, taking care to smooth over all cracks and openings or the dumplings will become soggy. Meanwhile, bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Reduce the heat so the water is just boiling. Add the dumplings and cook until they rise to the surface, then cook for another 10 minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer the dumplings to the soup and finish as instructed in the recipe. If not using at once, transfer the dumplings to a plate and pour off any excess water. Leave to cool, then very lightly coat with oil to prevent them from sticking together, cover with cling film/plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 day. Reheat in gently simmering soup.

CROÛTES

MAKES 4-6

PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes

COOKING TIME 6 minutes

4-6 slices of French bread, sliced on the diagonal olive or hemp oil (optional)

Preheat the grill/broiler to high and position the grill/ broiler rack 10cm/4in from the heat. Put the bread slices on the rack and toast for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden brown and crisp. Brush with oil, if desired, and serve warm or at room temperature. The croûtes can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days.

GARLIC CROÛTES Follow the recipe as above, but brush with garlic-flavoured oil.

GRUYÈRE OR CHEDDAR CROÛTES Follow the recipe as above. After brushing with oil, sprinkle with grated cheese and grill/broil until the cheese melts and is very lightly tinged. Serve warm.

GOATS’ CHEESE CROÛTES Follow the recipe as above, but use a basil- or herb-flavoured olive oil, if you like. After brushing with oil, sprinkle with crumbled or chopped rindless goats’ cheese and grill/broil until the cheese melts. Serve warm.

CROÛTONS

MAKES 4-6 servings

PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes

COOKING TIME 4-6 minutes

1 tbsp butter

olive or hemp oil

2 slices of day-old sliced white or wholemeal/wholewheat bread, cut into 0.5-1cm/¼-½in cubes, crusts removed

Croûtons are best made just before serving, so they are added to the soup hot. Line a plate with several layers of paper towels and set aside. Melt the butter with the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Working in batches, if necessary, add the bread cubes and fry, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until golden brown and crisp.

Remove the croûtons from the pan and drain on the paper. If not using immediately, leave to cool completely, then store in an airtight container and reheat in a low oven before serving.

GARLIC CROÛTONS Follow the recipe as above, but use garlic-flavoured oil.

ROUILLE

MAKES about 175ml/6fl oz/¾ cup; enough for 4-6 servings

PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes, plus chargrilling the pepper

55g/2oz/1 cup fresh breadcrumbs

2 large garlic cloves, chopped

1 large red pepper, chargrilled (see page 10), peeled, deseeded and chopped, or 1 roasted red pepper in oil, drained and chopped

125ml/4fl oz/½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

salt and cayenne pepper

Put the breadcrumbs, garlic and red pepper in a beaker or deep bowl and blend until a thick paste forms. Add half the olive oil, season with salt and cayenne and blend again. Slowly add the remaining oil, while blending, until a thick sauce forms. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

GREMOLATA

MAKES 4-6 servings

PREPARATION TIME 5 minutes

finely grated zest of 1 lemon

1 garlic clove, very finely chopped

3 tbsp finely chopped parsley leaves

Mix together all the ingredients in a bowl. (This is best made just before serving, although it will retain its fresh flavour for several hours, or overnight in the refrigerator.) Sprinkle gremolata over soups along with a drizzle of olive oil or other flavoured herb oil for a hit of fresh, zesty flavour.

FINISHING TOUCHES

Spiced Seeds - Heat a dry frying pan over a high heat. Add 30g/1oz/¼ cup each pumpkin and sunflower seeds, 3 tablespoons sesame seeds and 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, if desired, and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until the seeds pop and start to colour. Immediately sprinkle over 1 tablespoon light soy sauce or tamari soy sauce and stir until evaporated. Transfer the seeds to a bowl and stir in ½ teaspoon celery seed. Store in an airtight container.

Roasted Pumpkin Seeds - Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas 4. Dissolve ½ tablespoon salt in 500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups water in a saucepan over a high heat. Add 75g/2¾oz/½ cup pumpkin seeds and bring to the boil. Immediately reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Drain and pat completely dry. Toss the seeds with 1 teaspoon olive or hemp oil and spread out on a baking sheet. Roast for 10-20 minutes, stirring frequently, until golden brown. Meanwhile, line a plate with several layers of paper towels. Transfer the seeds onto the paper and leave to cool. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Chilli Bon-Bon - This piquant sherry is great for adding to curried soups as an alternative to hot pepper sauce. Fill a jar with medium or dry sherry and add 2 or 3 slit and deseeded bird’s-eye chillies (plus extra, as desired). Seal the jar, shake and set aside for at least 5 days before using. This keeps indefinitely in the refrigerator or cupboard.

Crushed Herb Oils - Make this with basil, coriander/ cilantro, mint or parsley leaves. Put a handful of leaves in a mortar with a pinch of salt and use a pestle to pound them to a paste. Slowly add olive or hemp oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, pounding until the oil is thick and fragrant. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. These are best freshly made.

Chillies in Vinegar - This traditional accompaniment to Thai soups is usually made just before you start cooking the soup. Thickly slice long red chillies (not bird’s-eye chillies unless you like very hot food), deseed if desired, and put them in a small bowl. Cover with distilled white vinegar and set aside until required.

Crisp-Fried Garlic - This is a traditional accompaniment to Thai soups that is usually prepared just before you start cooking the soup. Put 5 coarsely chopped garlic cloves in 5cm/2in olive, hemp or sunflower oil in a small saucepan over a high heat. Heat just until the garlic is golden brown and small bubbles appear around the edge, then immediately pour into a heatproof bowl and set aside to cool. Serve in little bowls for diners to add to their soup at the table, if they like.

Crisp-Fried Shallots - Cut 2 or 3 shallots in half lengthways, then thinly slice. Heat the oil and cook as above. If you remove the shallots and oil from the heat before they turn brown they will not over-cook in the residual heat and burn. When cool, use a slotted spoon to remove the shallots from the oil and drain on paper towels. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 days and use to sprinkle over soups.

Crunchy Mixed Seeds - Mix together 4 tablespoons each sunflower and pumpkin seeds, 2 tablespoons white sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon hemp seeds and 1 tablespoon lightly cracked flaxseed. Store covered in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

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Dairy-free

Nut-free (coconut is being treated as a nut in this book, so recipes with coconut milk have not been labelled as nut-free)

Wheat-free

Vegetarian (no meat, game or seafood, but can contain dairy and egg products)

Vegan (no meat, game, seafood, dairy or egg products)