Rice & Noodles - K-Food: Korean Home Cooking and Street Food - Da-Hae West, Gareth West

K-Food: Korean Home Cooking and Street Food - Da-Hae West, Gareth West (2016)

Chapter 7. Rice & Noodles

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Rice is a key part of a Korean diet, so much so that the Korean word for rice, bap is the same as the word for food.

Unless noodles are served, short-grain, white (sushi) rice is eaten at every meal and most Koreans will feel like they haven’t eaten a complete meal unless they’ve had a bowl. In fact, even when we go out for Korean BBQ and have had our fill of meat, my family still often orders a few bowls of rice to eat with a jjigae to finish the meal.

Korean rice can be eaten plain, mixed with vegetables and gochujang to create bibimbap or fried to make bokkeumbap. In Korea, it’s even used as a vehicle for different fillings like a sandwich in the form of Kimbap. It can also be turned into the following:

Juk

Rice is often simmered with plenty of water to create a porridge known as juk. This is usually eaten when you’re feeling unwell - or by the elderly - as it’s easy to eat and digest.

Rice Flour and Rice Cakes

Rice can be ground to make a flour (such as sweet rice flour), which can then be used to make Korean rice cakes called tteok. Rice flour is also an important ingredient in fermenting kimchi and making batters.

Nurungji

When boiling rice, it can often scorch at the bottom of the pan creating a thin layer of crispy rice known as nurungji. Nurungji can be eaten as a crispy snack (sometimes sprinkled with a little sugar), or water can be poured into the pan and re-boiled to create sungnyung, which is sometimes eaten after a meal to aid digestion.

Alcohol

Korea’s biggest-selling spirit soju was traditionally made from rice (though it’s now often made from a combination of grains and starches). Soju is a clear spirit, around 20% ABV and has a slightly sweet, clean flavour that particularly complements spicy or salty foods. Another popular alcohol in Korea is called makgeolli which is a rice beer. This creamy drink is made from uncooked rice and a fermentation starter called nuruk.

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NOODLES

I eat rice almost every day, so I think I’d find it impossible to live without it. It’s my comfort food and, particularly when I’m feeling ill, all I want is a bowl of rice and kimchi. My mum however could probably give it up so long as she had noodles in her life. Noodles are my mum’s favourite thing to eat, and though she has quite a small appetite the rest of the time, sit her in front of a bowl of noodles and she’ll be able to eat them faster than anyone else. There are so many different types of noodles in Korea, so if my mum did give up rice, she’d have plenty of choice. Those we’ve mentioned in this book include:

Somyun

Somyun are thin vermicelli noodles made from flour. They’re quite starchy, so need to be cooked separately and then rinsed and drained before adding them to any soups. Somyun noodles can be eaten either hot, like in Janchi Guksu, a clear soup traditionally eaten at celebrations, or cold in chilled noodle salads like Bibim Guksu.

Naengmyeon

Naengmyeon are springy buckwheat noodles that originate from the northern parts of Korea. These noodles are similar to Japanese soba noodles, but they contain sweet potato starch which give them a bouncier, chewier texture. The noodles are slippery (not starchy) and are always enjoyed cold, whether with a spicy sauce or added to a chilled broth like Mul Naengmyeon.

Dangmyeon

Dangmyeon are also sometimes known as cellophane or glass noodles as they go glossy and transparent when cooked. These noodles are made from sweet potato starch and are usually sold dried in big packets, so they need to be rehydrated in plenty of water before cooking. Dangmyeon are the key ingredient in Japchae but they’re also used in other recipes too, often cut into small pieces to add a little bit of chewy texture, as in the filling for Gogi Mandu.

Kalguksu

Kalguksu translates as ‘knife noodles’, as these noodles are traditionally rolled out in large sheets and then cut by hand with a sharp knife. These noodles can also be bought dried, but the texture is very different, so it’s best to make your own at home. Kalguksu are chewy, starchy and very filling.

Ramyun

Ramyun refers to Korean instant noodles, and as they’re so popular in Korea, they have to be included here! Ramyun are usually wheat noodles that have been pre-fried and come in a large packet, along with some dried vegetables and a seasoning sachet, which creates (an often spicy) noodle broth. The noodles are usually quite springy in texture and are a quick, cheap and convenient option for many Koreans.

A note on noodles: Long noodles are said to symbolize a long life, so for this reason, a lot of people (including my uncle) say that you shouldn’t cut them, the idea being that you wouldn’t want to cut your life short.

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Kimchi Bokkeumbap

KIMCHI FRIED RICE

Out of all the recipes in this book, this is probably the one that we eat the most often - it’s the perfect midweek dinner, as it’s really quick and easy to cook. We usually have all the ingredients in our refrigerator and it’s a great way to use up leftover rice, as fresh rice here will just make everything a bit mushy. The egg is a must on top - I like mine just-cooked and really runny, so that the yolk mixes into the rice and becomes the sauce. Perfect.

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1 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus extra for frying

100g (3½oz) pork belly, finely chopped

150g (5½oz) Baechu Kimchi

1 tablespoon sesame oil

400g (14oz) cooked short-grain rice

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 tablespoon Gochugaru (Korean chilli powder)

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced

2 eggs

1_ In a heavy-based frying pan, heat the vegetable oil over a medium heat.

2_ Add the pork belly pieces to the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring, until the edges begin to crisp up and the pork is cooked through. Add the kimchi and stir-fry for a further 2-3 minutes, then add the sesame oil, rice, sesame seeds and chilli powder and continue to cook, stirring, until the rice is completely heated through. Stir in the spring onions (reserving a little for garnish) and spoon into bowls.

3_ While the rice is still hot, quickly fry the eggs to your liking in a separate pan. Place a fried egg on the top of each rice bowl and garnish with the reserved spring onions.

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Dolsot Bibimbap

KOREAN MIXED RICE

Bibimbap literally translates as ‘mixed rice’ (bibim = mixed, bap = rice), so you can really throw any ingredients together with some rice and you’d have a form of bibimbap. My mum usually makes hers with leftover rice, Miyuk Muchim and Kongnamul Muchim mixed together with some gochujang and sesame oil for a quick lunch.

This recipe is the fancier version - dolsot refers to the hot stone bowl that the rice is served in. It’s served sizzling hot with a raw egg in the middle, which you mix in at the end so you have the texture combination of crispy and soft rice, crunchy vegetables and soft, runny egg. If you don’t have a stone bowl, then you can still get the crispy bits by flattening the rice into an even layer in a frying pan instead.

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2-3 dried shiitake mushrooms

vegetable oil

½ carrot, cut into matchsticks

½ courgette, cut into matchsticks

100g (3½oz) Sigeumchi Muchim

100g (3½oz) Kongnamul Muchim

500g (1lb 2oz) cooked short-grain rice

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 egg

salt

SAUCE

2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean red chilli paste)

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

2 tablespoons sesame oil

½ tablespoon caster sugar

2 garlic cloves, minced

1_ Put the shiitake mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to soak for 10 minutes, then strain and slice into thin strips.

2_ Mix all the sauce ingredients together in a small bowl. Set aside.

3_ Heat a splash of oil in a heavy-based pan frying pan over a medium heat. Add the carrot to the pan, season with salt and cook, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until the carrot has softened slightly. Set the carrot aside and repeat with the courgette.

4_ To assemble the dish, heat a Korean dolsot stone bowl or a heavy-based frying pan over a high heat for 3-4 minutes until really hot. Brush the inside of the bowl or pan with the sesame oil, then add the rice, pressing it down onto the bottom and up the sides so as much of the surface is covered as possible (this will make sure you get lots of crispy bits).

5_ Once the rice starts to sizzle, start arranging the vegetables in neat piles around the edges, leaving it over a high heat and allowing it to cook for a further 2 minutes to ensure the rice is nice and crispy. Crack the egg in the centre of the dolsot or pan, and carefully remove it from the heat. Serve piping hot with the sauce separately, so that you can make it as spicy as you like.

TIP: If you want to make this meaty, add around 50g (1¾oz) of Yukhoe to each bowl along with the vegetables. The heat of the hot stone bowl will quickly sear the beef once it’s stirred through, so it’ll be nicely browned on the outside but still pink in the middle.

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Japchae

STIR-FRIED ‘ROYAL’ NOODLES

Along with bulgogi and kimchi, this is probably one of Korea’s most popular and well-known dishes. Historically, these stir-fried sweet potato noodles were enjoyed exclusively by royalty, but now they can be found on any Korean table, particularly when friends and family gather together in celebration. In fact, it’s my mum’s go-to party-platter dish as it’s easy to whip up and can be enjoyed both hot and cold.

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4 dried shiitake mushrooms

100g (3½oz) beef frying steak, cut into 5-mm (¼-inch) slices

150g (5½oz) dangmyeon sweet potato noodles

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

½ carrot, cut into matchsticks

1 red pepper, cored, deseeded and thinly sliced

2 spring onions, trimmed and cut into 5-cm (2-inch) lengths

100g (3½oz) Sigeumchi Muchim

MARINADE

1 tablespoon regular soy sauce

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons caster sugar

pinch of pepper

SAUCE

1 tablespoon sesame oil

4 tablespoons regular soy sauce

2 teaspoons caster sugar

2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds, plus extra to garnish

1 garlic clove, minced

pinch of pepper

1_ Put the shiitake mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to soak for 10 minutes, then strain and slice into thin strips.

2_ Meanwhile, mix the marinade ingredients together in a bowl. Add the beef slices and mix well to ensure everything is evenly coated, then leave to marinate for 10 minutes.

3_ Combine the sauce ingredients in another bowl and set aside.

4_ Cook the noodles in boiling water as per the packet instructions, then drain well and rinse under cold water.

5_ Heat 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the marinated beef slices and fry for 1-2 minutes until browned, then remove from the pan and set aside.

6_ Add the carrot to the pan and fry for 2 minutes until softened, then add the pepper and spring onions and fry for a further 2 minutes. Remove the vegetables from the pan and set aside, keeping the pan over the heat.

7_ Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil into the pan, then add the noodles and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes until the noodles are heated through. Add the sauce and all the other ingredients and stir-fry for a further 2 minutes, making sure everything is mixed together and is evenly coated with the sauce.

8_ Divide between bowls, garnish with a few extra sesame seeds and serve immediately.

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KNIFE-CUT NOODLES STEP-BY-STEP

1_ Using a rolling pin, roll the dough out into a large rectangular shape, dusting with plenty of flour as you go, until it is about 3mm (⅛ inch) thick (be warned, you’ll need a large space!).

2_ Run a knife along the outside of the rectangle to straighten the edges and remove any excess dough - this will help you to get even noodles.

3_ Starting from one of the narrow ends of the rectangle, fold over 10cm (4 inches) of the dough. Dust with flour.

4_ Fold and dust with flour again, then repeat until you have reached the other end and are left with a block of dough with layers of folds.

5_ Using a sharp knife, cut the dough block widthways into 5-mm (¼-inch) strips.

6_ Unfold the noodles and dust them with flour. Cover with cling film and set aside until needed. The dough can be made a day ahead but the noodles are best eaten on the day they are rolled and cut.

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Kalguksu

KNIFE-CUT NOODLES

There’s a whole line of stalls in Namdaemun market in Seoul called ‘Kalguksu Alley’, where all the ajummas are hidden by clouds of steam, huddled over big pans of bubbling stock, each making kalguksu to their own special recipe. My favourite place to enjoy this noodle broth, though, is a standalone hut in the middle of the hustle and bustle of the main market as the ajummas there are amazingly skilled, deftly making noodles at amazing speed due to their years of experience. There are faded menus on the walls displaying a selection of different dishes, but everyone who visits is there to eat the noodles. Each table has a little earthenware pot of very fermented kimchi that you help yourself to - the tangy chilli heat cuts through the starchy, chewy noodles and is the perfect match.

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2 litres (3½ pints) Dak Yuksu

1 courgette, cut into thin matchsticks

100g (3½oz) cooked chicken meat, shredded

NOODLES

600g (1lb 5oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting

4 tablespoons sweet rice flour

2 teaspoons salt

300ml (½ pint) water

TO GARNISH

1 dried gim (nori) seaweed sheet, finely sliced

2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced

TO SERVE

Yangnyum Jang

matured Baechu Kimchi

1_ To make the noodles, in a large bowl combine the flour, rice flour and salt. Pour over the water a little at a time and stir together with a wooden spoon until the mixture begins to stick together. Using your hands, shape the mixture into a rough ball, then tip it onto a clean, floured surface and knead it for 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic.

2_ Wrap the dough ball in clingfilm and refrigerate for 20 minutes, then return the dough to the floured work surface and knead for a further 10 minutes, adding a little extra flour as you go to stop the dough from sticking. Roll out and cut the noodles following the step-by-step instructions on the previous page.

3_ Bring the stock to a vigorous boil in a large saucepan and add the courgette and cooked chicken and heat for 2 minutes until the courgette has softened. Add the noodles to the pan and cook for 3 minutes, or until the noodles are cooked through, stirring using a fork or pasta tongs to prevent the noodles from sticking together.

4_ Ladle the noodles into large bowls, scatter over the seaweed, sesame seeds and spring onion to garnish and serve with yangnyum jang and strong baechu kimchi, so that each person can adjust to taste.

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Dangmyeon Bokkeum

SPICY STIR-FRIED VEGGIE NOODLES

Strangely enough, this vegetarian- and vegan-friendly dish is actually based on soondae bokkeum, a real meat-eater’s meal made with a blood sausage called soondae, the Korean version of black pudding. This adaptation focuses on the dish’s best bit, its spicy sauce, which clings here to the sweet potato noodles, making them deliciously sticky and irresistible to even the most hardcore of carnivores.

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10 dried shiitake mushrooms

150g (5½oz) dangmyeon sweet potato noodles

6 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 aubergine, cut into 1-cm (½-inch) cubes

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 bird’s eye chillies, trimmed and chopped

pinch of salt

1 onion, thinly sliced

½ red cabbage, thinly sliced

500g (1lb 2oz) chestnut mushrooms, sliced

SAUCE

2 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean red chilli paste)

2 tablespoons regular soy sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons clear runny honey

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon soju (Korean rice spirit) or mirin

2 tablespoons apple vinegar

2 tablespoons perilla seed powder or 2 teaspoons finely ground black pepper

TO GARNISH

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

2 tablespoons roasted sesame seeds

1 dried gim (nori) seaweed sheet, sliced into thin matchsticks

1_ Put the shiitake mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave to soak for 10 minutes, then strain, setting aside the soaking water, and slice into thin strips.

2_ Meanwhile, cook the noodles in boiling water as per the packet instructions, then drain well and rinse under cold water. Set aside.

3_ To make the sauce, put all the ingredients together in a bowl and mix together well, stirring in a tablespoon of the mushroom soaking water to loosen the mixture a little.

4_ Heat 3 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Add the aubergine and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes until softened, then add the garlic, chillies and salt and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Tip the aubergine onto a plate and set to one side.

5_ Put the pan back over a medium heat with the remaining 3 tablespoons of vegetable oil. Add the onion, lower the heat and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, until the onion is softened but not brown.

6_ Add the shiitake mushrooms to the pan along with the cabbage and chestnut mushrooms. Increase the heat to medium and stir-fry for 5-6 minutes, then add the noodles and sauce, tossing or stirring everything together so that the noodles are completely coated and the ingredients are evenly distributed. Continue cooking for 2-3 minutes until the noodles are heated through, stirring to ensure they don’t stick to the bottom of the pan.

7_ Garnish with spring onion, sesame seeds and seaweed strips to serve.

Bibim Guksu

SUMMER NOODLE SALAD

These spicy noodles are a great way to use up any leftover salad or crunchy veg you may have lurking in your refrigerator, so don’t feel bound by the carrots and iceberg lettuce we use here. My mum likes to add the (slightly unusual) combination of rocket and watercress to hers to give it a really peppery kick. Serving this with the Korean egg drop soup will help extinguish some of the heat.

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165g (6oz) somyun vermicelli noodles

1 green apple, cored and cut into thin strips

¼ iceberg lettuce, shredded

1 carrot, halved and cut into thin strips

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced, plus extra to garnish

3 tablespoons gochujang (Korean red chilli paste)

1 tablespoon gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ tablespoons caster sugar

3½ tablespoons apple vinegar

1 teaspoon roasted sesame seeds

1 teaspoon sesame oil

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and sliced, to garnish

GYERAN GUK (KOREAN EGG DROP SOUP)

500ml (18fl oz) Myeulchi Gookmul

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

2 eggs, beaten

TO SERVE

English mustard

apple vinegar

1_ Cook the noodles in boiling water according to the packet instructions, then drain well and rinse under cold water.

2_ Squeeze out any excess water from the noodles and put them in a large bowl with all the remaining ingredients except the hard-boiled eggs. Mix everything together well, then divide between bowls.

3_ For the gyeran guk, put the stock in a saucepan with the soy sauce and spring onions and bring to the boil. Add the beaten egg to the boiling stock, using a chopstick or a spoon to ensure the ribbons are distributed evenly through the liquid. Allow the egg to cook for 20-30 seconds until lightly cooked, then pour into side bowls.

4_ Garnish the bibim guksu with the hard-boiled egg slices and a little extra spring onion. Serve with the soup, along with mustard and vinegar to season to your own taste.

Mul Naengmyeon

CHILLED NOODLE SOUP

Along with Bibim Guksu this is one of my favourite things to eat in the summer. Made from buckwheat, these noodles are springy and chewy - a completely different texture to the soft somyun vermicelli noodles typically used in Korean soups. I like to add loads of vinegar and mustard to the ice cold broth here, often so much that it makes me suck in my cheeks and gives me a severe case of ‘mustard nose’

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250g (9oz) naengmyeon buckwheat noodles

10 ice cubes, crushed

½ Asian pear, peeled, cored and thinly sliced

150g (5½oz) beef frying steak, thinly sliced and cooked to your liking

2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled

BROTH

1 litre (1¾ pints) beef stock

3 whole garlic cloves

2-cm (¾-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, whole

1 spring onion, trimmed and roughly chopped

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 tablespoons apple vinegar

SAUCE

½ Asian pear, peeled, cored and puréed

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced

1 tablespoon regular soy sauce

1 tablespoon gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

1 teaspoon caster sugar

1 teaspoon apple vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

1-cm (½-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

½ teaspoon roasted sesame seeds

TO SERVE

English mustard

apple vinegar

1_ Put all the broth ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer over a medium heat for 10 minutes, then strain the broth through a sieve. Pour the strained broth into a large bowl and leave in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes until cooled.

2_ While the stock is chilling, mix the sauce ingredients together in a small bowl. Set aside.

3_ Cook the noodles in boiling water according to the packet instructions, then drain well and rinse under cold water.

4_ Divide the ice cubes, noodles, pear and steak between two serving bowls, then pour half of the chilled stock over each.

5_ Halve the eggs and arrange on top of the noodles. Spoon over the sauce and serve with English mustard and apple vinegar for adding to the broth as you like.

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Ramyun

INSTANT NOODLES

Ramyun (or instant noodles) are so loved by Koreans that they consume more of them per head than anyone else in the world. In most corner shops in Korea you’ll find a ramyun area where you can take your cup of instant noodles, fill it at the hot water station and sit in store on the plastic benches to eat your speedy meal. To Koreans, ramyun are more than a quick and easy fast food though - people genuinely love the taste, and most have their own way of customizing them to turn them into a hearty and substantial meal. We’ve included our favourite ways of eating these noodles here, as well as asking some of our friends how they eat theirs. We also recommend using Korean instant noodles in a hot and spicy flavour - we normally eat the Shin Ramyun brand at home, so the recipes below are based on this.

JUDY JOO’S RAMYUN

Executive Chef of Jinjuu Restaurant

Throw away your noodle seasoning packet and make your own broth by mixing 2 tablespoons gochujang (Korean red chilli paste) and 1 teaspoon doenjang (Korean soybean paste) into some chicken stock in a saucepan. Bring to the boil and add your instant noodles along with whatever you have in your refrigerator (for me this is usually some combination of spring onions, Chinese cabbage, seaweed, chopped red chillies, prawns, shredded chicken, tofu or egg), until noodles are cooked.

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LIZZIE MABBOTT’S RAMYUN

Author of Chinatown Kitchen

Cook your instant noodles as per the packet instructions along with the seasoning packet. Fry some Spam chunks in a dry, nonstick pan until crisp, then add these to the drained noodles. Top with a soft-boiled egg and finish with a drizzle of ginger and spring onion oil and a good shake of shichimi togarashi (Japanese spice mix).

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JOE MCPHERSON’S RAMYUN

Founder of Zenkimchi.com

Boil your instant noodles in water (without the seasoning packet) and drain once cooked. Heat a little vegetable oil in a pan and throw in the drained noodles along with the seasoning from the ramyun packet. Crack in an egg, and scramble it in. Toss in some pasta sauce and mix in until just heated through. My brother swears by this!

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DA-HAE’S RAMYUN

550ml (1 pint) water

2-3 bird’s eye chillies, finely sliced

50g (1¾oz) mature Baechu Kimchi, drained and roughly chopped

50g (1¾oz) pork belly, cut into matchsticks

1 x 120g (4½oz) hot and spicy Shin Ramyun instant noodle packet

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced

1 egg

1_ Bring the measurement water to the boil in a saucepan along with the chillies, kimchi and pork belly. Add the noodles, noodle seasoning packet and spring onion and continue to cook for 2 minutes.

2_ Turn off the heat, make a well in the middle of the noodles with a chopstick or fork and crack in the egg. Pile the noodles carefully over the egg to cover, then put the lid on the pan and leave for 2 minutes for the egg to poach. Serve immediately - the egg whites should be firm and the yolk perfectly poached.

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GARETH’S RAMYUN

1 x 120g (41½oz) hot and spicy Shin Ramyun instant noodle packet

1 bird’s eye chilli, finely sliced

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

75g (2½oz) cooked chicken meat, shredded

1 processed cheese slice

1 tablespoon grated medium Cheddar cheese

2 spring onions, finely sliced

1_ Put the noodles in a saucepan with the chilli, pour over enough boiling water to cover and cook (without the seasoning packet) for 1-2 minutes, until the noodles are al dente and just cooked. Drain and set aside.

2_ Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the chicken and fry for 2-3 minutes until heated through. Add the drained noodles along with the seasoning from the noodle packet and fry for a further minute, stirring everything together to make sure the noodles are evenly coated in the seasoning.

3_ Tip the noodles into a large bowl and top with the processed and grated cheeses. Cover with a plate and leave for 2 minutes for the cheese to melt a little, then scatter over the spring onions and serve.

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