Stews - Gennaro Slow Cook Italian(2015)

Gennaro Slow Cook Italian (2015)

Stews

Goulash Tirolese

Stufato di manzo al cioccolato

Spezzatino casalingo

Ossobuco alla Milanese in bianco

Spezzatino di maiale

Cassoeula

Montone alla contadina

Agnello con i fagioli

Spezzatino d’agnello con zucca e zafferano

Coniglio marinato all’agrodolce

Scottiglia di capriolo

Pollo alla cacciatora

Verdure estive stufate

Illustration

Stews are popular all over the world; they are warming, welcoming, and a wonderful way to use economical cuts of meat. Pieces of meat that are slowly cooked in a sauce with herbs, spices and seasonings are often far more tender and tasty than a quickly grilled steak, and with the inclusion of vegetables can be a meal in themselves - or serve with polenta (cornmeal), rice, mashed potatoes or lots of good bread to mop up the juices.

The classic Italian way of preparing a stew begins with a soffritto, a gently fried mix of onion, celery and carrot - this important step forms the base of the stew, ensuring maximum flavour. The sealing or browning of the pieces of meat is equally important, giving a rich flavour and adding colour to the stew. It is important to cook the stew on a very gentle heat because boiling will toughen the meat. To enhance the flavour, stews are best made the day before and gently reheated when required.

You can usually find ready-cut chunks of meat clearly marked ‘for stewing’ in supermarkets, or your butcher will cut the meat for you. If you are beginning with a larger piece of meat, it should be cut into cubes of roughly 4-5cm/1½- 2 inches; pieces that are too small will fall apart and may dry out during cooking.

The following are ideal cuts for stewing: Lamb: scrag end and middle neck, shoulder, knuckle/shank Beef: neck, chuck, blade, brisket, thick flank, thin flank, skirt, shin/shank, topside, silverside, knuckle Pork: shoulder - although you can use any cut, shoulder is the most economical

Italian stews are as varied as the country: from a rich Tyrolean goulash originating in the Austrian-influenced Alpine region of Trentino-Alto Adige, to my slow-cooked vegetable stew using the typical sun-drenched ingredients of the southern regions - you will find a dish to satisfy every taste and mood.

Illustration

Goulash Tirolese

Tyrolean beef stew

Illustration

This classic stew from the Trentino-Alto Adige or South Tyrol region of northern Italy is slow cooked with onions, cumin and paprika - its distinct central European flavour is influenced by neighbouring Austria. The gradual addition of stock gives this stew a gentle flavour; pancetta is added, so be careful not to make your stock too salty. This dish is traditionally served with runny polenta (cornmeal). It is also delicious with a piece of good country bread whose soft part is removed, cubed and toasted; the goulash is served in the bread crust and the toasted bits sprinkled on top - a dish fit for an Austrian king!

Serves 4

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 large onions, sliced

100g/3½oz pancetta, cubed

about 1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups hot vegetable stock - or use a stock cube

1kg/2lb 4oz stewing beef, cut into chunks

2 garlic cloves, sliced

1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed

1 tsp paprika

2 sprigs of thyme

polenta (cornmeal) or toasted country bread, to serve

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and sweat the onions on a medium heat for about 5 minutes, stirring all the time to prevent sticking, until softened. Remove and set aside.

Add the pancetta to the pan and cook on a medium heat until coloured but not burnt. Remove from the pan and set aside. Return the onions to the pan, add about 3 tablespoons of stock and cook for a minute or so until the liquid has evaporated.

Add the beef, increase the heat and brown the meat all over. Add 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup of stock, reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and cook very gently for 30 minutes, then add another 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup of stock and continue to cook for 30 minutes.

Stir in the garlic, cumin, paprika, thyme and pancetta. Add 400ml/14fl oz/1⅔ cups of stock, cover with a lid and cook over a low heat for a further 1 hour, gradually adding more stock and stirring from time to time to ensure the meat doesn’t stick.

Remove from the heat and serve with toasted country bread or runny polenta.

For a slow cooker

Cook the onions, pancetta and beef as above. Once the beef is browned add 750ml/1¼ pints/3 cups stock, the garlic, cumin, paprika, thyme and pancetta. Bring to the boil, stirring, then transfer to a large slow cooker pot, press the meat beneath the liquid, cover and cook on Low for 8-9 hours.

Stufato di manzo al cioccolato

Slow-cooked marinated beef with chocolate

Although adding chocolate to savoury dishes is a South American tradition, it has become increasingly popular in Italian dishes - cocoa powder is even added to pasta dough! I must say I am not too keen on these gimmicky recipes; however, the addition of a little good-quality dark chocolate to slow-cooked beef does enrich the sauce.

Serves 4

1kg/2lb 4oz stewing beef, cut into chunks

2 onions, sliced

2 carrots, sliced

3 bay leaves

1 garlic clove, left whole, crushed 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup red wine

2 tsp red wine vinegar

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

a handful of parsley, finely chopped

2 sprigs of thyme, finely chopped

400ml/14fl oz/1⅔ cups beef stock - or use a stock cube

30g/1oz dark chocolate, grated

salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 potatoes, cut into chunks

Rinse the beef under cold running water and pat dry. Place in a bowl with the onions, carrots, bay leaves and garlic. Pour in the wine and vinegar, cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and put in the fridge to marinate for 8 hours or overnight.

Discard the garlic clove, drain the liquid and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and brown the beef well all over. Add the onions, carrots and bay leaves and sweat for about 4 minutes, until the onion has softened. Stir in the parsley and thyme, pour in the marinade liquid and stock and stir in the chocolate, some salt and pepper. Reduce the heat, partially cover with a lid and cook on a low heat for 1½ hours.

Remove the lid, add the potatoes and cook on a medium heat for a further 30 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked and the liquid has reduced slightly. Serve immediately.

For a slow cooker

Marinate the beef as above. Brown the beef, then add the vegetables, herbs, marinade liquid and 300ml10fl oz/1¼ cups beef stock, then the chocolate and salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, then transfer to a large slow cooker pot, press the meat beneath the liquid, cover and cook on Low for 8-9 hours.

Cook the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water for 15 minutes until just tender. Drain and stir into the slow cooker pot. Cover and cook on Low for 30 minutes. Stir before serving.

Spezzatino casalingo

Everyday beef and vegetable stew

This is the family stew my wife Liz normally makes at home - nothing fancy or complicated, just good old-fashioned comfort food. It is delicious, nutritious and good value for money, using economical pieces of stewing beef and root vegetables. If you don’t have red wine to hand or don’t want to open a new bottle, simply replace with more stock. Serve with mashed potatoes for a satisfying meal.

Serves 4

800g/1lb 12oz stewing beef, cut into chunks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

plain (all-purpose) flour, to dust

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 onions, finely sliced

2 large carrots, cut into chunks

2 parsnips, cut into chunks

2 sprigs of thyme

50ml/2fl oz/3 tbsp red wine

400ml/14fl oz/1⅔ cups beef stock - or use a stock cube

2 tsp tomato purée (paste)

Rub salt and pepper all over the chunks of beef and dust lightly with flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the beef and brown well all over on a high heat. Remove the meat and set aside.

In the same pan, heat the remaining olive oil and sweat the onions on a medium heat for a couple of minutes. Add the carrots, parsnips and thyme and sweat for another 2 minutes.

Return the meat to the pan, increase the heat to high, add the wine and allow to evaporate. Add the stock and tomato purée, reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and cook gently for 1 hour 45 minutes, stirring from time to time.

Remove from the heat and serve immediately with mashed potatoes or with some good crusty bread.

For a slow cooker

Dust the beef with flour and brown as above. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large slow cooker pot. Sweat the vegetables as above, add the wine and evaporate. Add the stock and tomato purée, bring to the boil, stirring, then pour over the meat and press the meat and vegetables beneath the liquid. Cover and cook on Low for 8-9 hours. Stir before serving.

Ossobuco alla Milanese in bianco

Braised veal shins

There are two ways of making this classic Milanese dish - with or without tomatoes. The latter, known in Italian as in bianco, is actually the original version: the veal is slowly braised with vegetables, white wine and stock and garnished with gremolada for extra flavour and colour. Veal shin or knuckle is a cheap, tough cut but extremely flavoursome and ideal for slow cooking. The name ossobuco in Italian means ‘bone with a hole’, a reference to the hollow marrow bone at the centre of the cross-cut veal shin. Ask your butcher for veal shin for ossobuco and he will cut the pieces for you for this excellent dish. In Milan, this is traditionally served with risotto alla Milanese - saffron risotto.

Serves 4

4 cross-cut slices of veal shin, about 300g/10½oz each

plain (all-purpose) flour, to dust

50g/1¾oz/4 tbsp butter

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup dry white wine

salt and freshly ground black pepper

500ml/18fl oz/2 cups veal or chicken stock - or use a stock cube

for the gremolada

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

a handful of parsley, finely chopped

grated zest of ½ lemon

Using kitchen scissors, slightly snip the skin around the veal shins (this is done to prevent the meat from curling up during cooking). Dust the meat with flour, shake off any excess and set aside.

Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and carrot and gently sweat until softened. Increase the heat to medium, add the veal shins and brown on both sides. Add the wine and allow to evaporate. Season with salt and pepper, add the stock, reduce the heat, partially cover with a lid and cook on a low heat for 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender.

Meanwhile, prepare the gremolada by combining all the ingredients together.

When the veal is cooked, remove from the heat and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the gremolada and serve.

For a slow cooker

Sweat the vegetables and brown the meat as above, add the wine and evaporate. Add the salt, pepper and stock, bring to the boil, then transfer to a large slow cooker pot, make sure the veal is beneath the stock, then cover and cook on Low for 6-7 hours. Serve as above.

Spezzatino di maiale

Pork stew

A homey stew that is a complete meal in itself. The addition of pancetta or bacon enhances the flavour of the pork. It can be made the day before and reheated when required, adding the peas after you have reheated the stew. Serve with good bread to mop up the sauce.

Serves 4

650g/1lb 7oz stewing pork, cut into chunks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

plain (all-purpose) flour, to dust

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely sliced

2 carrots, halved lengthways and cut into chunks

3 fresh sage leaves

50g/1¾oz pancetta slices or streaky bacon, roughly chopped

75ml/2½fl oz/5 tbsp dry white wine

250ml/9fl oz/1 cup vegetable stock - or use a stock cube

400g/14oz potatoes, cut into chunks

150g/5½oz/generous 1 cup frozen peas

Season the pork with salt and pepper and dust with flour, shake off any excess flour and set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion, celery, carrots, sage and pancetta and sweat on a medium heat. Add the pork and brown well all over.

Add the wine and allow to evaporate. Add 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup stock, reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and cook for 30 minutes.

Add the remaining stock. After 15 minutes, add the potatoes and cook for another hour.

Five minutes before the end of cooking time, add the peas. Remove from the heat and serve.

For a slow cooker

Heat the oil in a large deep frying pan and sweat the vegetables and pancetta as above. Add the floured pork and brown, then add the wine and evaporate. Pour in 250ml/9fl oz/1 cup stock and bring to the boil, stirring. Cut the potatoes into 2.5cm/1 inch chunks (these can take longer to cook than meat so don’t make any bigger) and place in a large slow cooker pot, pour over the hot pork mixture and press the meat and potatoes beneath the liquid. Cover and cook on Low for 8-9 hours. Stir in the frozen peas, with a little extra hot stock, if needed. Cover and cook on Low for 20 minutes.

Cassoeula

Braised pork and cabbage

Illustration

This dish from the Lombardy region of northern Italy was traditionally made on the feast of Saint Anthony on 17 January to mark the end of the pig slaughtering season. No part of the pig was ever wasted and the cheaper cuts, such as trotters, skin, ears, nose, ribs and tail, were used to make this stew - the better parts were for curing into hams and salami. This dish is still popular today and I have adapted it with more readily available cuts of pork. Serve with runny polenta (cornmeal), as they do in Lombardy, or mashed potatoes for a perfect winter warmer. The addition of Parmesan rind gives the stew an extra bit of flavour. When you finish a piece of Parmesan, don’t discard the rind; wrap it in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and store in the fridge to add to soups and stews.

Serves 4

1 onion, finely chopped

4 carrots, roughly chopped

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

4 pork ribs, about 100g/3½oz each

225g/8oz pork loin steaks, cut into strips

200g/7oz pork sausages

50g/1¾oz salami, cubed

800ml/28fl oz/3½ cups vegetable stock - or use a stock cube

200g/7oz tomato passata (strained tomatoes)

1kg/2lb 4oz savoy cabbage, roughly chopped

a few pieces of Parmesan rind (optional)

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat 100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup water in a large saucepan, add the onion, carrots and celery, cover with a lid and steam-fry on a medium heat for 4 minutes.

Add the ribs, loin, sausages and salami. Combine the stock and passata and add to the saucepan. Add the cabbage and the Parmesan rind, if using, some salt and pepper, cover with a lid and cook on a gentle heat for 2 hours. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

For a slow cooker

Steam-fry the onion, carrots and celery as above. Add the ribs, loin, sausages and salami. Mix the stock with the passata and add to the meat with the Parmesan rind, salt and pepper. Bring to the boil then transfer to a large slow cooker pot. Cover and cook on Low for 7 hours. Add the cabbage, ladle over some of the hot liquid, then cover and cook on Low for 1-1¼ hours until the cabbage is very tender. Stir before serving.

Montone alla contadina

Rustic mutton stew

I love mutton. As a boy, I remember, during the winter months, farmers would bring mutton to the village to sell and my father would always buy some to be slow-cooked with lots of herbs in a casserole. Mutton cut into chunks for stewing is now available from supermarkets; not only is it more economical than lamb, I find it more flavoursome, especially when making stews. It is ideal for slow-cooking and with the addition of potatoes is a complete one-pot meal.

Serves 4

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, finely sliced

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

1kg/2lb 4oz mutton pieces

200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup red wine

2 bay leaves

4 sage leaves

2 sprigs of rosemary

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 litre/1¾ pints/4 cups vegetable stock - or use a stock cube

1 tbsp tomato purée (paste)

600g/1lb 5oz potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and garlic and sweat for a couple of minutes. Add the mutton and brown well all over. Reduce the heat, add the wine, and allow to evaporate gradually on a low heat for about 15 minutes.

Stir in the herbs, some salt and pepper and 600ml/20fl oz/2½ cups of stock and cook on a low heat, partially covered with a lid, for 2 hours.

Add the remaining stock with the tomato purée and potatoes and cook for a further 25 minutes, until the potatoes are cooked. Remove from the heat, season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.

For a slow cooker

Sweat the onion and garlic, brown the meat and evaporate the wine as above. Add the herbs, salt and pepper and tomato purée, then add 750ml/1¼ pints/3 cups stock and bring to the boil. Cut the potatoes into 2.5cm/1 inch chunks and place in a large slow cooker pot, add the meat and onion, then pour in the liquid. Press the meat and potatoes beneath the liquid, cover and cook on Low for 8-10 hours. Serve as above.

Agnello con i fagioli

Lamb stew with beans

This rustic lamb stew is a perfect winter warmer and a complete meal in one pot. I really like to use dried beans, which need to be soaked overnight and cooked before being added to the stew. However, to save time, you could use canned beans and add them towards the end of the cooking time.

Serves 4

150g/5½oz/¾ cup dried white kidney beans or cannellini beans, soaked in water overnight

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

375g/13oz shoulder of lamb, cut into chunks

40g/1½oz pancetta, diced

1 carrot, diced

1 clove

1 bay leaf

100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup dry white wine

3 tbsp canned chopped tomato

300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups vegetable stock - or use a stock cube

to serve

country bread, toasted and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil

Drain the beans and put them in a large saucepan with plenty of cold water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, partially cover with a lid and simmer for 1½ hours, or until tender but not mushy. Drain the beans and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onion and sweat for about 3 minutes until softened. Add the lamb and brown all over. Add the pancetta, carrot, clove and bay leaf and stir-fry on a medium heat for 5 minutes. Pour in the wine and allow to evaporate. Add the tomato and cook for 3 minutes, then add the stock. Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and cook on a low heat for 2 hours.

Add the beans and cook for a further 15 minutes. Serve with slices of toasted country bread.

For a slow cooker

Heat the oil in a large deep frying pan, sweat the onion and brown the lamb as above. Add the pancetta, carrot, clove and bay leaf, then the wine, and evaporate as above. Add the tomato, 300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups stock, salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, stirring, then transfer to a large or medium slow cooker pot, press the meat beneath the liquid, cover and cook on Low for 7-8 hours.

Drain 2 x 380g/13oz cartons cannellini beans (or use about 500g/1lb 2oz cooked dried beans), stir into the slow cooker pot with a little extra hot stock, if needed. Cover and cook on Low for 30 minutes. Stir before serving.

Spezzatino d’agnello con zucca e zafferano

Lamb stew with butternut squash and saffron

Illustration

This hearty lamb stew with butternut squash and potato is full of colour - orange from the squash, yellow from saffron and a hint of red from tomato and chilli. Simple to prepare, this one-pot meal makes a delicious family meal or an informal dinner with friends.

Serves 4

700g/1lb 9oz stewing lamb, cut into chunks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 red chilli, halved lengthways

2 sprigs of rosemary

4 small sage leaves

a pinch of saffron, diluted in 1 tbsp water

2 tbsp canned chopped tomatoes

4 tbsp dry white wine

200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup vegetable

stock - or use a stock cube

200g/7oz potato, cut into large chunks

400g/14oz butternut squash, peeled and cut into large chunks

Rub the lamb all over with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the meat and brown on all sides, then remove and set aside.

Add the onion, garlic and chilli to the pan and sweat for a couple of minutes. Return the lamb to the pan, then add the herbs, saffron and tomato. Add the wine and allow to evaporate. Add the stock, cover with a lid and cook on a very slow heat for 1 hour.

Add the potato and butternut squash and continue to cook for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave to rest for a couple of minutes before serving.

For a slow cooker

Brown the meat, sweat the vegetables and add the herbs, saffron and tomato as above; add the wine and allow to evaporate. Add 350ml/12fl oz/1½ cups stock and bring to the boil, stirring. Cut the potato and squash into 2.5cm/1 inch chunks. Put the potatoes into a large slow cooker pot, pour over the lamb mixture, press the lamb beneath the liquid and scatter the pumpkin on top. Cover and cook on Low for 8-9 hours. Stir before serving.

Coniglio marinato all’agrodolce

Sweet and sour marinated rabbit

Illustration

I love rabbit and can’t understand why it is not more widely available. The meat is tender, light and very digestible; in Italy, rabbit is given to weaning babies, convalescents and the elderly. You can order rabbit from good butchers, or if, like me, you shoot, the countryside is full of them. I often marinate rabbit because it rids the meat of that slightly gamey taste it can have; it can be marinated the day before and left in the fridge overnight. Once cooked, the rabbit is finished with a tangy sweet and sour sauce, giving the meat a real kick. Delicious served with slices of toasted country bread. If you prefer, chicken can be substituted for the rabbit.

Serves 4

1kg/2lb 4oz rabbit pieces on the bone, cleaned with a damp cloth

plain (all-purpose) flour, to dust

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 small onion, finely chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 tbsp vegetable stock

for the marinade

1 small onion, finely sliced

175ml/6fl oz/¾ cup red wine

a handful of parsley, finely chopped

2 bay leaves

8 black peppercorns

1 garlic clove, left whole

1 tsp thyme leaves

salt

for the agrodolce

20g/¾oz/1½ tbsp caster (superfine) sugar

a knob of butter

4 tbsp red wine vinegar

30g/1oz/3 tbsp sultanas (golden raisins), soaked in lukewarm water for about 20 minutes, then drained

15g/½oz/2 tbsp pine nuts

Put all the marinade ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to the boil, then remove from the heat and leave to cool. Put the rabbit in a dish, pour over the marinade, cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Remove the rabbit from the marinade, pat dry and dust with flour.

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan, add the onion and sweat for a minute, then add the rabbit and brown all over. Pour over the marinade and cook on a low heat, uncovered, for about 15 minutes until the liquid has evaporated. Add salt, pepper and stock, cover with a lid and cook for 25 minutes on a medium-low heat until the rabbit is cooked through and the sauce has reduced.

Meanwhile, for the agrodolce, put the sugar and 2 tablespoons water in a small saucepan on a medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Stir in the butter until melted, then the vinegar and sultanas and bring to the boil for a minute. Pour this over the cooked rabbit, mixing it with the sauce, sprinkle with the pine nuts and serve.

Scottiglia di capriolo

Venison casserole

Illustration

Scottiglia is a slow-cooked Tuscan stew or casserole that is usually made with whatever the hunter has managed to catch, so you could substitute wild boar, rabbit or hare for the venison in this recipe. Many supermarkets now sell farmed venison; ‘casserole venison’ is cut up ready for stewing. The meat is first marinated overnight for maximum tenderness and flavour and then slow-cooked for a rich-tasting casserole. Delicious served with runny polenta (cornmeal).

Serves 4

1kg/2lb 4oz venison haunch or casserole venison, cut into 4-5 cm/1½-2-inch chunks

plain (all-purpose) flour, to dust

6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 sprigs of rosemary

3 sage leaves

2 bay leaves

1 onion, sliced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 celery stalk, chopped

2 carrots, roughly chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups beef stock - or use a stock cube

for the marinade

75ml/2½fl oz/5 tbsp red wine vinegar

250ml/9fl oz/1 cup red wine

15 juniper berries

15 black peppercorns

3 bay leaves

Put the venison in a bowl. Combine all the marinade ingredients and pour over the meat, cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave in the fridge overnight.

Remove the venison from the marinade, reserving the liquid, and pat the meat dry. Dust the meat with flour and shake off any excess.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan on a high heat, add the meat and brown well all over. Reduce the heat, add the herbs, onion, garlic, celery, carrots and sweat for a couple of minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the marinade and cook on a high heat for a couple of minutes. Add the stock, reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and cook for 2½ hours, until the meat is tender. Serve with runny polenta.

For a slow cooker

Marinate the venison as above. Drain, dust with flour and brown the meat, then transfer to a large slow cooker pot. Sweat the herbs, vegetables and garlic, season, then add the marinade and stock. Bring to the boil, pour over the venison, cover and cook on Low for 8-9 hours. Stir before serving.

Pollo alla cacciatora

Hunter’s chicken

Illustration

This classic Italian dish is renowned all over the world and often seen on the menus of Italian restaurants. The title alla cacciatora (‘in the style of the hunter’) suggests it was probably first made with game birds or rabbit. However, as with many Italian dishes, it also has roots in the cucina povera, when people used whatever meagre ingredients they had to hand; in this case, a chicken or, more likely, an old hen, was slaughtered for a special occasion and, to make it go further, enriched with whatever vegetables and herbs were available in the garden as well as a splash of homemade wine. It is made all over Italy and here I have recreated it in the way it is normally made in my region of Campania, using lots of herbs and fresh tomatoes. I like to serve this rustic dish with slices of toasted country bread drizzled with extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 4

750g/1lb 10oz chicken thighs and drumsticks

salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, finely sliced

1 garlic clove, crushed and left whole

1 small red chilli, sliced

2 sprigs of rosemary

2 sprigs of thyme

a handful of parsley, roughly chopped

2 bay leaves

4 sage leaves

125ml/4fl oz/½ cup dry white wine

1½ tbsp tomato purée (paste), dissolved in 3 tbsp lukewarm water

175g/6oz cherry tomatoes, halved

Rub the chicken pieces all over with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the chicken and seal well all over.

Add the onion, garlic, chilli and herbs and cook for a couple of minutes on a medium heat. Add the wine, increase the heat and allow the wine to evaporate slightly. Add the diluted tomato purée, then stir in the cherry tomatoes. Reduce the heat to low, cover with a lid and cook gently for 1¼ hours, until the chicken is cooked through; the flesh should come away from the bone and there should be no sign of pink when you pierce the thickest part. Serve hot.

For a slow cooker

Heat the oil in a large deep frying pan and cook the chicken as above. Continue as above, add the tomatoes, plus 300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups chicken stock. Bring to the boil, then transfer to a large slow cooker pot. Cover and cook on Low for 7-8 hours or until there are no pink juices when the chicken is pierced with a small knife.

Verdure estive stufate

Summer vegetable stew

Illustration

This simple but very tasty vegetable stew puts the flavours and colours of the Mediterranean on a plate. The slow, gentle cooking brings all the flavours of the vegetables and other ingredients together. I like to make this with lots of chilli and serve with couscous for a light but nutritious meal. It can be made in advance and in summer can be eaten cold if desired. Although it uses what I consider to be summer vegetables, it can be made at any time of the year.

Serves 4

4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 red onions, finely sliced

2 celery stalks with leaves, sliced

3 garlic cloves, sliced

1 red chilli, finely chopped

5 anchovy fillets

1 tbsp capers

140g/5oz/¾ cup green olives

1 red (bell) pepper, cut into thick slices

1 yellow (bell) pepper, thickly sliced

1 aubergine (eggplant), cut into chunks

2 courgettes (zucchini), cut into chunks

200g/7oz green beans, sliced in half

3 tbsp dry white wine

300g/10½oz cherry tomatoes, halved

a handful of basil leaves

salt

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan, add the onions, celery, garlic and chilli and sweat on a medium heat for a couple of minutes. Add the anchovy fillets and stir with a wooden spoon until dissolved. Add the capers and olives. Stir in the peppers, aubergine, courgettes and beans. Add the wine and allow to evaporate. Add the tomatoes, basil leaves and a pinch of salt. Reduce the heat, cover with a lid and cook gently for 1 hour. Serve with couscous.

For a slow cooker

Follow the recipe above and once all the ingredients are in the pan, heat through, stirring gently, then transfer to a large slow cooker pot. Cover and cook on High for 2-3 hours, stirring once halfway through cooking and again just before serving.