STARTERS - Deliciously Irish(2015)

Deliciously Irish (2015)

STARTERS

Illustration

Fishing boats at Dingle Peninsula in Lough Gill, County Kerry.

Mussels with Bacon and Red Wine

Soused Herrings

Cod’s Roe & Cod’s Roe Pâté

Oysters with Spicy Pork Patties

Potted Salmon

Smoked Salmon Pâté

Scotch Eggs

Devilled Prawns

Smoked Salmon Tartlets

Mushrooms in Pastry

Black Pudding Patties

Oysters in Champagne Sauce

Smoked Fish Tart with Ardrahan Cheese

Baked Eggs with Spinach

MUSSELS WITH BACON AND RED WINE

Illustration

SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

‘Lord Smart (to Neverout): Tom, they say fish should swim thrice.

Neverout: How is that, my Lord?

Lord Smart: Why, Tom, first it should swim in the Sea (Do you mind me?), then it should swim in Butter; and at last Sirrah, it should swim in good Claret.’

Jonathan Swift, Polite Conversation

2 litres/3½ pints live mussels

240 ml/8 fl oz red wine

2 tablespoons butter

1 fresh thyme sprig

6 streaky bacon rashers, chopped

4 shallots

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 large ripe tomatoes, de-seeded and chopped

1 tablespoon plain flour

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaved parsley, plus extra to garnish salt and freshly ground black pepper

fresh crusty bread, to serve

Clean the mussels thoroughly, discarding any that are broken or which don’t close when sharply tapped, and put them in a large saucepan, with the wine. Cover, bring to the boil and cook for 2 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time, until the mussels are open. Remove the mussels to a bowl, discarding any that do not open. Strain the liquid carefully into a bowl, discarding any sand or grit.

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan, add the thyme and bacon and cook until crisp. Then add the shallots and garlic and cook until soft. Add the tomatoes.

Blend the remaining butter and the flour together and stir into the saucepan, a piece at a time, stirring until the flour is cooked and the sauce is smooth. Add the mussel liquid gradually, stirring until the sauce has thickened. If it is too thick, add a little water. Reheat the mussels in the sauce for a few moments, then stir in the parsley. Check and adjust the seasoning. Garnish with parsley and serve with fresh crusty bread.

SOUSED HERRINGS

SERVES 4-6

The herring was once a staple of the Irish diet, and its seasonal reappearance was greeted with pleasure by rich and poor alike. Sousing, a simple way of preserving fish, became very popular in its own right. The sousing liquid here is a mild one, so if you like your herrings hot, leave them in the cold marinade for a few hours before cooking to develop the flavours.

8-10 herring fillets

8-10 shallots

2-3 bay leaves

1 onion, finely sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

small boiled potatoes, to serve

FOR THE MARINADE

300 ml/½ pint cider or white wine vinegar

300 ml/½ pint dry cider or white wine

2 teaspoons juniper berries, slightly crushed

½ tsp chilli powder or chopped fresh chillies, or to taste

1-2 tablespoons each of brown sugar, mustard seeds and black peppercorns

Boil the marinade ingredients together gently for a few minutes. Cool and allow to infuse for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2. Lay out the fish fillets on a board and arrange a peeled shallot and a bay leaf on each half. Roll up and secure with a cocktail stick. Arrange in an ovenproof dish, scatter the onion slices over the top and pour the marinade into the dish. Cover with foil and bake for 30-40 minutes.

Garnish with the parsley and serve with small boiled potatoes. To serve cold, cool before packing into a plastic box, which will allow the cooking liquid to cover them, and chill, overnight if possible. Serve with pickled onions or gherkins with mustard or horseradish sauce on the side. They will keep for 2-3 days in the fridge.

COD’S ROE & COD’S ROE PÂTÉ

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A LUNCH DISH

The season for cod’s roe is very short, a mere 2-3 weeks between February and March, so it is important to make the most of it. The roes freeze well, either raw or cooked, so it’s a good idea to buy extra when they are available. Smaller roes are more delicate in texture, but the larger ones are very good, too.

To cook, simply tie the roe loosely in a plastic bag, cover with boiling water and simmer slowly for 15-20 minutes, until it is firm to the touch. Leave to cool and remove from the bag. The simplest and most traditional preparation is to cut it into thick slices, dip in seasoned flour, or egg and breadcrumbs, and fry gently in a mixture of butter and oil until crisp. Very good indeed for breakfast, with crisp bacon and grilled tomatoes or mushrooms, or for lunch with creamy mashed potato and a slice of lemon.

FOR THE PÂTÉ

110-140 g/4-5 oz cooked cod’s roe

55-75 g/2-3 oz butter, melted

juice and grated zest of ½ lemon

salt

pinch of cayenne or chilli pepper to taste

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

Purée all the ingredients in a food processor until smooth, seasoning with salt and cayenne or chilli to taste. Pack into individual ramekins and chill. This is delicious served with hot toast, as a starter. If it’s not to be eaten for a few hours, cover with melted butter before chilling.

OYSTERS WITH SPICY PORK PATTIES

SERVES 2

St Valentine’s Day calls for something with amorous associations: it must be delicious, of course, but not too much trouble. The old fashion of eating chilled oysters and chipolatas (tiny hot spicy sausages) with champagne or white wine seems ideal. Chipolatas may be hard to find, so prepare and chill your own pork patties the day before and then cook them quickly, for a few minutes on each side. Serve hot, alternating with the chilled oysters.

½ onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove

30 g/1 oz butter

350 g/12 oz lean pork, finely minced

2 teaspoons Yorkshire relish or Worcestershire sauce

a pinch each of dried thyme, grated nutmeg and hot chilli powder

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

12 oysters, opened (see note), on the deep half of the shell

Cook the onion and garlic in a little of the butter until soft. If the patties are being prepared in advance, cool, then chill until required.

Mix the meat with the remaining butter, the relish or sauce, seasonings and herbs, then stir in the onion and garlic and mix thoroughly. The mixture should be hot and spicy but not so much that the finished patties kill the taste of the oysters and wine. With floured hands, shape the mixture into small patties, about 4 cm/1½ inches wide. Cook them in a frying pan, without any extra fat, for about 10 minutes.

Note: to open an oyster, hold it firmly in your left hand and insert a short, sharp knife near the hinge, working it from right to left until it begins to release; then prise it open.

Illustration

Reaching for Ireland’s favourite drink.

POTTED SALMON

SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

This eighteenth-century Irish recipe, from an old family cookbook, uses ginger, mace, lemon zest and bay leaves. There are no exact measurements. The spices can be adjusted to taste and the quantity of fish available, but the initial salting should be generous. Delicious as a light lunch for 3 or 4 or potted in ramekins, it will serves 6 as a starter. Serve some good bread, triangles of hot toast or crackers alongside.

450 g/1 lb salmon

2 tablespoons sea salt

1 teaspoon ground mace

a pinch of ground ginger

grated zest of 1 lemon

1 bay leaf

110 g/4 oz butter, clarified (see note below)

bread, toast or crackers, to serve

Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2. Skin and remove the bones from the fish and then cut it into several pieces. Rub all the surfaces well with salt and leave for 3 hours.

Scrape the salt from the fish, wipe with kitchen paper, but don’t wash it. Mix together the spices and lemon zest and rub into the fish. Pack the fish into a 600 ml/1 pint oven dish, with the bay leaf on top, and cover with foil. Bake for about 20-30 minutes, or until the fish is cooked. Pour off the juices and remove the bay leaf; then fill the pot up with clarified butter, covering the fish completely. Keep for a day or two before using. To keep for a longer period, 6-7 days, fill the butter up to a depth of 1 cm/½ inch over the top of the fish. Store, well-covered, in the fridge.

Note: to clarify butter, melt the butter gently, then allow it to stand until the sediment falls to the bottom. Carefully pour the clear butter over the fish, leaving the sediment behind.

SMOKED SALMON PÂTÉ

SERVES 6

350 g/12 oz smoked salmon

175 g/6 oz crème fraîche

grated zest and juice of ½ lemon

fresh dill sprigs

75 g/3 oz butter, melted

125 ml/4 fl oz double cream

TO DECORATE

small fresh dill sprigs

gherkins

Skin and chop the salmon, removing any bones or hard pieces. Put in a food processor with the crème fraîche, lemon zest and juice, a few sprigs of dill and 55 g/2 oz of the melted butter. Pulse until the texture you prefer is formed, and then, by hand, gradually beat in the cream.

Rub 6 little ramekins with oil and pack in the pâté. Brush the tops with the remaining butter, cover and chill. To serve, decorate with dill and gherkins. Serve with hot toast or crackers. Serve the pâté in one large bowl if you prefer.

SCOTCH EGGS

Illustration

SERVES 8 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

In spite of the name, this combination of pork and eggs has a long and happy history in Ireland. Back in fashion now, Scotch eggs are still in demand for parties and picnics. The mustard mayonnaise really lifts the flavour. Served hot, they’re great for lunch or supper too, especially with good buttery mash alongside. Allow one per person, with a few extra. They won’t go to waste.

4 eggs

200 g/7 oz pork, very finely minced, or good sausage meat

3 scallions (spring onions), chopped

30 g/1 oz butter

1 tablespoon cornflour

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce or soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 egg yolk

2-3 tablespoons plain flour, for dusting

oil, for deep-frying

crisp lettuce, to serve

FOR THE MUSTARD MAYONNAISE

2 egg yolks, at room temperature

1 tablespoon mild French mustard

300 ml/½ pint olive oil

about 1 tablespoon horseradish cream

salt

Put the eggs into boiling water and cook for 10 minutes exactly, then plunge into cold water to cool.

In a small pan, cook the chopped scallions (spring onions) in the butter until soft. Allow to cool. Mix the pork, scallions, cornflour, Worcestershire or soy sauce, lemon juice, and salt and pepper together to make a paste. Shell the eggs and dry them carefully. Roll in egg yolk, then in flour, shaking off any excess.

Divide the pork into 4 portions and, with floured hands, shape around each egg, encasing them completely. Deep-fry the eggs in sufficient oil to cover, turning frequently to prevent splitting, for about 6-8 minutes until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper.

For a starter, slice the eggs lengthways and arrange on crisp lettuce. For a picnic, leave them whole.

To make the mustard mayonnaise, beat the egg yolks with the mustard, then slowly pour in the oil, drop by drop at first, and then in a thin stream as it begins to emulsify, stirring continuously, or use an electric beater on medium speed. Season well with a pinch of salt and add creamed horseradish to taste.

Note: should the mayonnaise separate, start again with another egg yolk in a clean bowl and add the mixture, drop by drop, as before.

DEVILLED PRAWNS

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SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE

‘Devils’ - highly spiced morsels of fish or fowl - were hugely popular in Ireland in the past, after dinner, when they were considered a stimulant to the punch bowl, or before dinner, as a spur to jaded appetites. There was great competition for the definitive ‘devil’ and recipes were constantly exchanged, many of tear-compelling pungency.

12 large raw prawns in their shells

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons melted butter

2 limes or 1 lemon

pinch of chilli powder to taste

Peel the body shells from the prawns, but leave the tails intact. To make the ‘devil’, mix the salt and spices together and form into a paste with the melted butter, the grated zest of 1 lime or ½ lemon and a little juice. To make it hotter, add more cayenne or chilli, but taste constantly. Marinate the prawns in this mixture for a couple of hours in the fridge.

Cook the prawns under a medium grill, turning regularly, until they are just opaque and the tail shells are pink. Slice the remaining lime or lemon and serve the prawns garnished with the citrus slices.

Note: if cooked prawns are used, grill them just sufficiently to heat them through thoroughly.

SMOKED SALMON TARTLETS

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SERVES 6

These delicate little tartlets, filled with smoked salmon mousse, can be garnished with whatever suits your taste. Try slivers of anchovies with capers, halved quails eggs, or sprigs of fresh dill.

FOR THE PASTRY

280 g/10 oz plain flour

½ teaspoon grated lemon zest

140 g/5 oz butter

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon very cold water

salt

FOR THE FILLING

225 g/8 oz smoked salmon

240 ml/8 fl oz crème fraîche or double cream, or a mixture

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh dill or tarragon or ½ teaspoon dried

½ teaspoon paprika

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

a dash of Tabasco or chilli sauce

fresh chervil, tarragon or dill leaves (or other toppings of your choice, see above), to garnish

TO SERVE

mixed salad leaves

3-4 tablespoons oil

1-2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

To make the pastry, sift the flour with a pinch of salt and stir in the lemon zest. Rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Moisten with the egg yolk and a tablespoon of cold water and mix to a soft dough. Wrap in cling film and chill for half an hour.

Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5. Roll out the pastry to fit six 8 cm/3 in buttered tartlet tins. Prick the pastry bottoms. Line with baking parchment and then fit the tins into each other, putting an empty tin (or foil and dried beans) into the top tin. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven, separate the tins and put back in the oven for a further 4-5 minutes or so until crisp but not too brown. These can be made in advance and kept in a tin. Don’t fill them, however, until shortly before serving, so they remain crisp.

Put the salmon and crème fraîche or cream in a food processor, with the herbs, paprika, lemon juice and rind and a dash of Tabasco or chilli sauce. Taste for flavour. Process until a stiff purée is formed and add a little more cream if it’s too stiff. Chill until required. Divide the filling between the pastry shells and arrange the garnish of your choice on top.

Whisk together the oil and vinegar to make the dressing. Arrange some salad leaves on each plate and place a tart beside the leaves. Sprinkle a few drops of dressing over the leaves and around the plate.

MUSHROOMS IN PASTRY

SERVES 8 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

There is a charm in mushrooms that is never quite dispelled by familiarity. Use as many kinds as you can find; their different flavours blend together subtly.

225 g/8 oz spinach

55-75 g/2-3 oz butter

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

450 g/1 lb mixed mushrooms

1 tablespoons mushroom ketchup or Worcestershire Sauce

½ teaspoon cayenne pepper

450 g/1 lb frozen or homemade puff pastry

1 egg, beaten

150 ml/¼ pint whipping cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5. Wash and coarsely chop the spinach. Melt a knob of butter in a large frying pan and gently cook the garlic for a few moments, and then add the spinach and toss until it is softly wilted. Remove the spinach from the pan and squeeze out any juices back into the pan.

Wipe and trim the mushrooms and chop them coarsely. Add a tablespoon of butter and one of ketchup to the pan and cook the mushrooms until they are reduced but still juicy. Season well with salt, pepper and cayenne. (If oyster mushrooms are used, don’t put them in until the last moment.) Remove the mushrooms to cool, but leave the juices in the pan.

Roll out the pastry into 2 large rectangles about 25 x 20 cm/10 x 8 inch and leave to rest for 10 minutes. Grease a baking sheet and cover with a sheet of baking parchment. Place one sheet of the pastry on top of the baking sheet and cover with the spinach, leaving a 1 cm/½ inch space around the edges. Pile the mushrooms on top of the spinach and even out. Season well and sprinkle with the cayenne. Dot with the remaining butter, then cover with the other rectangle of pastry, press the dampened edges together and make a vent in the top. Brush with the beaten egg.

Bake until golden, about 40 minutes. Add the cream and remaining butter and bubble for a few minutes to make a sauce.

BLACK PUDDING PATTIES

SERVES 8 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

Puddings, black and white, are usually eaten at breakfast. These patties make an excellent starter or light lunch.

350 g/12 oz Clonakilty black pudding, or other coarse-textured pudding

225 g/8 oz freshly cooked potato

4 scallions (spring onions), finely chopped

1 large cooking apple, peeled and finely chopped

55 g/2 oz butter

1 egg, beaten

1-2 tablespoons milk (optional)

2 large eating apples

2 tablespoons wholemeal flour

3 tablespoons oil, for frying

small glass of white wine, vermouth or stock

salt and freshly ground black pepper

rocket, watercress or other leaves, to garnish

Peel the casing from the black pudding and finely crumble it into a mixing bowl. Mash in the potato, scallions (spring onions), apple, 30 g/1 oz of the butter and the beaten egg. Season. Mix well, then form into 12 patties, adding a tablespoon or so of milk if the mixture is too dry. Dust with the wholemeal flour and fry gently in the oil until hot and crisp. Keep warm.

Wash the eating apples and cut across into 1 cm/½ inch slices. Stamp out the cores. In a clean pan, fry the apple slices in the remaining butter until beginning to brown but not breaking up. Arrange these on the plates, two per person and put the patties on top. Deglaze the pan with the wine and pour the juices around the patties, garnish with the rocket, watercress or other leaves.

Illustration

The Conor Pass and Brandon Peak in County Kerry.

OYSTERS IN CHAMPAGNE SAUCE

Illustration

SERVES 4

The charm of this dish lies in the combination of the hot sauce with the cold oysters, the perfect introduction to the Christmas dinner. The sauce can be made in advance and reheated.

24 oysters

3 shallots, very finely chopped

30 g/1 oz butter

1½ tablespoons plain flour

a glass of champagne or white wine

300 ml/½ pint cream

cayenne pepper or Tabasco sauce

chopped fresh parsley, to garnish

1 baby gem lettuce, cut into strips

2 lemons, quartered

Scrub the oysters thoroughly and soak them for an hour or so in cold water. Open the oysters carefully (see below), saving as much of their liquid as possible, and put them to chill while you make the sauce. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve.

Cook the shallots and butter in a pan until transparent but not brown. Add the flour and stir well until it’s cooked. Add the champagne or wine and the strained oyster liquid to the roux, whisking well to prevent lumps and cooking until reduced somewhat, about 5 or 6 minutes. Gradually add the cream and simmer gently until the sauce has reduced and thickened sufficiently. Season to your taste with the cayenne or Tabasco - it probably won’t need salt.

Just before you are ready to serve, arrange the oysters in their shells onto plates and put a spoonful of the hot sauce over each cold oyster. Garnish with the parsley, lettuce and lemon wedges.

Note: to open an oyster, hold it firmly in your left hand and insert a short sharp knife near the hinge, working it from right to left until the muscle is severed; then prise the oyster open.

SMOKED FISH TART WITH ARDRAHAN CHEESE

SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A MAIN COURSE

Ardrahan is a semi-soft cheese with a pungent aroma, from Kanturk, Co. Cork. Combining it with smoked fish is the inspirational idea of Geert Maes, chef patron of Gaby’s Restaurant in Killarney, one of Ireland’s most respected restaurants. Here it is partnered with smoked haddock, to make a simple but delicious tart.

FOR THE PASTRY

110 g/4 oz butter

200 g/7 oz plain flour

¼ teaspoon salt

1 egg yolk

1-2 tablespoons very cold water, if necessary

FOR THE FILLING

1 onion, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

½ tablespoon oil

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon black peppercorns

225 g/8 oz smoked haddock or cod

110 g/4 oz Ardrahan cheese (or other semi-soft cheese with a mature flavour)

4 large eggs

300 ml/½ pint cream

freshly ground black pepper and grated nutmeg

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6. To make the pastry, rub the butter into the sifted flour and salt, moisten with the egg yolk, adding a tablespoon or so of cold water if required to knead gently to a soft dough. Roll out, or press into a 23 x 5 cm/9 x 3 inch quiche tin. Chill until required.

Gently fry the chopped onion and carrot in the oil until soft, then add the bay leaf and peppercorns and enough water just to cover. Boil for about 10 minutes. Gently poach the fish in this stock until cooked, 5-6 minutes. Take out the fish, flake and remove any bones or hard pieces. Strain the stock and keep it for soups.

With a potato peeler, remove the thin outer rind from the Ardrahan cheese and then cut the cheese into thin slices. Arrange these on the base of the pastry and put the flaked fish on top.

Beat the eggs and cream together and season well with black pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. It probably won’t need salt. Pour into the pastry and bake for 5 minutes, then turn the oven temperature down to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2 and cook for a further 35 minutes until golden on top and the pastry has shrunk slightly away from the sides of the tin.

Illustration

Forest mosses at Skellig Michael in County Kerry.

BAKED EGGS WITH SPINACH

Illustration

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE

4 large eggs, at room temperature

225 g/8 oz spinach

1 tablespoon butter, plus extra for greasing

2 streaky bacon rashers

a few drops of soy sauce

150 ml/¼ pint double cream

salt and freshly ground black pepper

chopped fresh chervil

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Wash the spinach and remove the stalks. Chop coarsely, place in a pan with a knob of butter and simmer gently until just tender. Squeeze out the moisture. Grill the bacon until crisp and then chop finely.

Butter four individual ramekins. Put a tablespoon of spinach in each, sprinkle the bacon over it and season well, adding a drop or two of soy sauce to each ramekin. Crack the eggs into the ramekins and cover with the cream. Sprinkle the chervil over the top. Bake for 12-15 minutes until the egg whites are set and the yolks still soft.

Illustration

Michael’s Stone Steps, Skellig, County Kerry.