Against the Grain: Extraordinary Gluten-Free Recipes Made from Real, All-Natural Ingredients (2015)

EGGS: Eggs are the perfect ingredient for gluten-free baked goods, and have many properties that are essential to the baking process. They are important sources of protein for structure, steam for leavening, and moisturizers for starch-dense recipes. They are also thickeners and add fat for mouthfeel and elasticity, and they hold flours together and contribute to a smooth, creamy texture. Typically a large egg without the shell (what I use in this book) weighs between 48 and 50 grams.

Egg yolk is where the fat and lecithin (the emulsifier) as well as almost 50% of the protein are located. Yolks thicken, smooth, and moisturize baked goods; they also add a richness of color. Most important, they bind ingredients together, particularly the water and fats in any recipe. Egg whites are mostly water, contain no fat, and are about 12.5% protein, in the form of albumin and ovalbumin. When pure egg whites are beaten, the albumin protein forms a stable foam, which is essential to meringues. When egg whites are folded into a batter and heated, as in an angel food cake, the ovalbumin protein forms its own structure.

MILK: In gluten-free baked goods, milk protein acts much like the protein in flour: It adds flavor and texture, and contributes to structure. Milk also adds fats and sugars, which carry the flavor. I use whole milk and 2% milk interchangeably in the recipes in the book. Whole milk and skim milk do not differ significantly in the amount of protein or sugar—only in the fat content. If you choose to use skim milk in these recipes, you may obtain different results because of the significant difference in fat content.

CHIA SEEDS: If you are vegan or can’t eat eggs, the best substitute is a chia seed slurry, a combination of chia seeds and water whisked together. Chia is a culinary variety of Salvia hispanica, a member of the mint family, and is commonly referred to as a superfood for its high nutritional value. Chia is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, with almost three times the amount in flaxseeds. Chia also packs a ton of protein and fiber for such a small seed. It is sometimes confused with Salba; although they are similar, the culinary chia seed is black, and Salba, an heirloom form of chia, is white, but they are interchangeable in recipes.

Chia seeds swell and form a tasteless gel when they absorb moisture; they have many of the culinary properties of both eggs and xanthan gum. They absorb seven to nine times their weight in water, making them an effective binder, emulsifier, and thickener. Chia does not contribute to leavening, however, so it must be used with chemical leavening agents like baking powder and baking soda. The typical formula for replacing one egg is 1 tablespoon of seeds to 3 tablespoons of water.

FLAXSEEDS: Flaxseeds are oily and distinctly flavored, with a seed coating that contains a gum. Like chia, when combined with water, flax forms a gel that can be used as a substitute for the emulsifying, binding, and thickening properties of eggs. (The typical formula for replacing one egg is 1 tablespoon of seeds to 3 tablespoons of water.) However, unlike chia, flax must be ground in order for its complete nutritional benefits to be released. And given its distinct taste, it is best used in doughs and batters with other prominent flavors. My favorite applications are whole seeds added to a bread dough or as the gelatinous basis for flourless crackers.

The flaxseed is 40 to 45% oil, so it can also be used as a healthy and fibrous substitution for other oils or shortening in a recipe. For gluten-free formulations, the gelatinous nature of flaxseeds contributes the benefit of adding to the overall structure of the baked good while providing a healthier form of fat. Typically, flax meal is substituted for oil in a 3:1 ratio (e.g., 1 cup flax meal to replace ⅓ cup oil). However, because flaxseeds can easily absorb up to 75% of their weight in water, flax drastically increases the water absorption properties of dough and significantly affects its handling characteristics.

SUNFLOWER SEEDS: To call them sunflower “seeds” is technically a misnomer, because they are the fruit of the sunflower and are properly referred to as “kernels.” Sunflowers are grown for their kernels and their oil. I once biked past miles of sunflower fields in southern Ontario, and it was the closest I’ve come to seeing plants sing to the sun. It is not surprising how they got their name.

Most home bakers don’t realize that sunflower seeds are an important source of lecithin and may be used much like eggs as emulsifiers, binders, and thickening agents. They impart a nutty taste while bringing together oil and water in doughs and sauces. In fact, we use sunflower seeds to make our Nut-Free Pesto Pizzas.

Sunflower seeds, because they are over 40% protein with high fiber content, also function splendidly as flour in many flourless recipes. Grinding sunflower seeds in a food processor to create sunflower meal is a quick process. You can also make your own sunflower seed butter in a food processor or take a shortcut and buy commercial sunbutter. Commercial sunbutter is very much like peanut butter in how it works in recipes. (If I do buy sunbutter, I tend to buy the organic version, since it does not include additional sugar, oils, salt, and preservatives.) It should be noted that one drawback to baking with sunflower seeds is that the chlorophyll in the seeds may react with baking soda and turn light-colored baked goods green. Adding a teaspoon of an acidic ingredient like lemon juice or white vinegar will reverse that effect.

PUMPKIN AND PUMPKIN SEEDS: What’s really cool about pumpkins is that you can use both the pulp and the seeds to enhance your baked goods. I first started using pumpkin seeds as a walnut substitute—Against The Grain is a nut-free facility, and I wanted to share baked goods at work. But once I started using pumpkin seeds in my recipes, I learned that they work very much like sunflower seeds. They are ideal for making naturally gluten-free products, and they increase the nutritional profile of baked goods while acting like a binder and thickener.

Like purees made from sweet vegetables (e.g., sweet potato, carrot, and beets), pumpkin puree adds flavor and moistness to baked goods and often staves off potential dryness. Pumpkin puree also may be added in place of up to 50% of the fat in a recipe. As an egg replacer, ¼ cup of fruit or vegetable puree is the equivalent of one egg, and depending on the recipe, you may have to add ½ teaspoon of baking soda to compensate for the leavening effect of eggs.

SESAME SEEDS: Sesame is more than a garnish sprinkled on bagels and hamburger buns: It has one of the highest oil contents of any seed and is the basis for many plant-based oils. Ground up, it becomes sesame tahini, which performs much like a nut butter in baked goods. Sesame seeds by themselves function as flour in flourless recipes for crackers, cakes, and wafers. And as a flavoring, toasted sesame oil gives a richness and depth to savory breads and crackers. Sesame has the added advantage of being about 25% protein, so it adds protein to any gluten-free flour mixture. Like other seeds, sesame is a good source of dietary fiber.

NUTS AND NUT BUTTERS: Ground nuts and nut butters (which are essentially ground nuts processed until they release their oils and become creamy) are certainly not low-calorie ingredients, but they add a richness to baked goods along with structure. In short, they act like high-fat, but nevertheless nutritious, flour. Using them in cakes, cookies, bars, and even quick breads eliminates the need to use butter or other shortening. Typically, nut butters are sweetened with sugar or other sweeteners like honey or bananas and held together with either whole eggs or simply egg whites. Many flourless baked goods feature cashews, almonds, pecans, and walnuts, to name a few.

COCOA: Chocolate flavor makes everything taste better, and that is particularly the case with gluten-free baked goods made with less palatable flours. Cocoa powder, which typically is 10 to 20% fat, acts like flour in baked goods and can function as flour, flavor, and fat, all rolled into one ingredient.

In order to maintain an ideal dry to liquid ratio when baking with cocoa powder you have to include it in your dry weight or risk creating an overly dry baked good. Cocoa powder comes in two forms: natural and Dutch process. Natural cocoa powder, which is what I use for my recipes, is an acidic ingredient and requires neutralizing with baking soda. Dutch process cocoa is cocoa that has been chemically treated to reduce its acidity.

The natural sweetness and binding properties of coconut have a magical effect on these moist and intensely chocolate Cocobean Cupcakes.

COCONUT: I really can’t say enough about coconut, one of my go-to ingredients for making sweet gluten-free baked goods and creating healthier as well as dairy-free products. The first thing you should know about coconut is that it is not a nut. It is a fruit that comes in many forms: coconut flour (which is four times as absorptive as wheat flour), coconut milk, coconut water (the fluid inside a green coconut), dried coconut, coconut oil, coconut cream, and coconut butter (also sometimes sold as creamed coconut). With the exception of coconut water and coconut milk, all of these forms are solid at room temperature. At Against The Grain, we began using organic coconut milk commercially when we developed our dairy-free line of rolls and bagels. That was my first introduction to the remarkable properties of coconut.

✵ Coconut milk (full-fat) can be substituted for dairy milk in just about any sweet recipe, and is the basis of rich, dairy-free custards, ganaches, and pastry creams. If used in savory recipes, you can lessen the coconut taste by neutralizing the coconut milk with ⅛ teaspoon of baking soda per 13.5-ounce can.

✵ Coconut oil is an excellent substitute for butter, although one should use 20% less coconut oil than butter because butter is 80% fat and 20% water. Coconut oil is primarily saturated fat that is very heat stable. Unlike coconut butter and coconut milk, the oil does not impart a discernible taste.

✵ Dried, flaked coconut is an excellent addition to baked goods, giving them texture and binding together gluten-free flours and sweeteners. Dried coconut is also the base of simple, flourless macaroon-type cookies that are held together and leavened with only egg whites.

✵ Coconut butter can easily be made by grinding dried coconut in a food processor (see recipe), much as peanuts are ground into peanut butter. Unlike coconut oil, coconut butter also includes the coconut solids. It is solid at room temperature but softens as it is warmed (it melts above 76°F). It is used as the basis for sweet or savory spreads, for smoothies and sauces; hardened, it is an excellent foundation for bars, fudges, and fillings.

✵ Coconut cream is the solid cream that rises to the top of canned full-fat coconut milk. The fastest way to collect coconut cream is to chill a can of coconut milk for several hours. The cream solidifies and can then be skimmed off. Simply beat the cream on high, add a little sweetener and vanilla, if desired, and you have a superb dairy-free whipped topping. Cocoa powder can easily be added to the cream to create a chocolate cream or ganache. Whipped coconut cream freezes well.

MOLASSES AND HONEY: Molasses and honey are both liquid sugars, but they are also the key to tenderizing gluten-free baked goods. Both are hygroscopic, which means they absorb water from the environment, a huge benefit for avoiding dry gluten-free baked goods. During the baking process, honey and molasses tenderize by delaying structure formation and robbing the protein and starch of water. This has the effect of both slowing down the speed at which the protein sets and delaying the gelling of the starches in the flours. So, instead of rubbery, gummy baked goods, you get tender ones. On the other hand, if you add too much liquid sweetener, you get the opposite effect: No structure ever forms, so breads are either flat or rise and collapse. Baked goods like cookies that are too sweet will spread and fall flat.

Like other sweeteners, molasses and honey contribute to browning through the caramelization of the sugars at high temperatures. And, if enough honey or molasses is used, the sugars act as a preservative and increase a baked good’s shelf life by retaining water, thereby slowing down the staling process. They also have the effect of reducing the water activity that promotes microbial growth. It should be noted that both honey and molasses are highly acidic, so they need to be neutralized or offset by an alkaline ingredient like baking soda. Too much acidity will coagulate or set the protein way too early in the baking process and prevent the product from rising.

Whereas dry sugars are typically added early in the mixing process to promote leavening (e.g., creaming sugar and butter to facilitate air pockets), liquid sugars should be added as close to the end of the mixing process as possible, so as not to overtenderize the dough.

RAISINS: Raisins can improve the flavor, texture, volume, color, and shelf life of breads, cookies, and bars. Like molasses and honey, raisins are hygroscopic and absorb water from the environment. But they also contain a compound that is a natural inhibitor of microbial growth. Indeed, the raisin’s inhibitor is so effective that it has been used in beef jerky formulations as a preservative. Raisins may be added whole, chopped, or in the form of raisin juice.

One of the most interesting forms of raisins is raisin juice, which you can prepare in your own kitchen. It is produced by boiling raisins in water without sugar or any other additives. The result, when boiled down sufficiently, is a brown liquid much like molasses. I have added raisin juice to yeast-leavened bread dough and found it produces one of the tastiest, moistest loaves I have developed. It should also be noted that raisins, pureed in a food processor, are an excellent sweetener with superb binding capabilities.

DATES: Like raisins, dates are a naturally sweet, whole fruit that can be chopped or pureed and added to bind flours and starches, to increase the moisture content, and to add dietary fiber. (Dates contain approximately 80% sugar, 2 to 5% protein, 6 to 10% fiber, and 5% water, if fresh rather than dried.) They are also the basis for many sweetened raw foods and pair particularly well with cranberries and coconut.

CINNAMON: Cinnamon is as much about smell as it is about taste. Like cocoa, it is an excellent mask for strong-tasting gluten-free flours like quinoa and garbanzo bean. It also can be used effectively paired with chocolate to enhance flavor. Cinnamon is a natural preservative that inhibits mold growth, and for that reason it can slow yeast growth. Thus, it is best to leave it out of fermenting dough and only add it during the final kneading and dough formation process. Cinnamon is a great flavor, but a little cinnamon goes a long way; too much leaves the baked good tasting kind of dusty.

APPLE BUTTER AND PECTIN: Apple butter, an excellent source of pectin, thickens and gels gluten-free bread doughs, moisturizes them, increases loaf volume, and softens the texture. It also may be used as a fat substitute in baked goods, and is a source of dietary fiber.

Pectin is found both in the cell walls of fruit and between the cells. It is the substance, for example, that makes apples hard and crisp. As an apple ripens, enzymes naturally present in fruit break down the pectin, and the apple softens and becomes mushy. Commercially, the most common sources of pectin are apples and citrus fruits. You can buy one of several brands, but they contain other ingredients like dextrose. Or, you can make your own pectin by boiling 2 cups of water for every pound of unpeeled apple slices, straining the mixture, and then further reducing the liquid.

BEANS AND BEAN FLOURS: Beans are one of those vegetables that can be added to gluten-free baked goods either as a flour or as whole beans that have been pureed. Commercially available bean flours include soy, garbanzo (chickpea), fava, garfava (a mixture of the previous two), black bean, and navy bean. Typically, bean flours are added to gluten-free flour blends as 20 to 25% of the mixture. Since many gluten-free flour mixtures are light on protein, bean flours increase the protein content to more closely match that of wheat flour. Beans also contain a good amount of pectin. Many bakers find that the combination of increased protein content and the binding, moisturizing properties of pectin provide more wheat-like texture to gluten-free breads. But not everyone likes the taste of bean flour in breads, and I am one of them. What I have found, however, is that I really like the effect of whole, pureed beans in brownies and bars. Not only do they function as a fat substitute, but they improve the glycemic index and dietary fiber profile for those avoiding more highly refined starches. You can puree either canned beans or dried ones that have been soaked. Soaking beans allows them to slowly absorb moisture, soften, and break down some of the complex sugars that cause gas.

POTATOES Like beans, potatoes—both regular and sweet potatoes—can be added to gluten-free breads and baked goods either as a component of the flour mixture or as mashed whole potatoes. Also like beans, potatoes contain a significant amount of pectin, which contributes to their gelling and moisturizing properties. Potato flour (made from both the peel and the flesh) tends to result in dense, moist baked goods, whereas potato starch has properties akin to the light, binding effect of tapioca starch and arrowroot. Compared to beans, potatoes have a very neutral, almost sweet flavor that can be made into traditional white bread. I first learned about adding potatoes to bread from Peter Reinhart’s Whole Grain Breads. I had to do a lot of ingredient and procedural adaptations, and there were a lot of failures along the way. But from the outset, I was convinced that potato water and potatoes are some of the best additions to yeast-based gluten-free loaf breads.

BANANAS AND AVOCADOS: Bananas and avocados are unique fruits for their rich, creamy texture that thickens and moisturizes baked goods. Bananas and avocados are good replacements for fats, particularly in gluten-free baked goods, because there is no gluten to become tough and chewy. They are a highly effective substitute for eggs because their texture captures air bubbles and acts as a leavening agent. Bananas are also an excellent substitute for refined sugar.

VINEGAR: In gluten-free breads, vinegar is used in two ways. First, it is added along with baking soda in quick breads to create lots of bubbles to expand during the baking process and increase volume. Second, it is used as a dough conditioner to create a higher, fluffier loaf. Dough conditioners are commonly used in the commercial production of gluten-free sandwich breads, but they are typically derived from some industrial concoction. You can simply add vinegar to your recipe in a volume equal to the yeast (e.g., 1 tablespoon vinegar to 1 tablespoon yeast) to strengthen the dough so that it can expand without collapsing.

Commercial dough enhancers or conditioners are typically used with lower-gluten flours like whole wheat, and they are more than just vinegar or acetic acid. They often contain additional starch, along with vital wheat gluten (which boosts the protein content of the flour). In gluten-free breads, we always seem to have ample starch, but our flours are gluten-challenged. If you are attempting a basic gluten-free yeast bread with or without eggs, you might try one or more of the following additions to “condition” the dough:

✵ Potato flakes: ⅛ cup per loaf

✵ Distilled white vinegar: equal to the amount of the yeast

✵ Unflavored, pure whey protein (such as The Organic Whey): 1 tablespoon per cup of flour

✵ Pure, soy-free whey powder is expensive, so you can always try substituting powdered instant milk as your conditioner

SOUR CREAM: Sour cream is an acid, a protein, and a fat, all rolled into a single ingredient. It is cream that is “cultured” by adding bacteria, which causes the protein to thicken into a gel. (Some commercial manufacturers add gums and starches to thicken it and to keep the liquid whey from separating, but it is possible to buy pure sour cream.) The culture acts as an emulsifier, pulling together starches, oil, and liquids in gluten-free batters and doughs. And the milk sugars and fat in sour cream tenderize, moisturize, flavor, and add richness to gluten-free baked goods. As an acidic ingredient, sour cream also combines with baking soda in a recipe to increase the production of carbon dioxide. One added benefit is that sour cream tends to trap air bubbles more effectively than acidic ingredients such as vinegar and lemon juice.

If you are on a dairy-restricted diet, you can replace sour cream with full-fat, whipped coconut milk that has vinegar added to it (1 teaspoon per cup). Also, reduce the other liquids in the recipe accordingly to retain the proper ratio of dry to liquid ingredients.

These healthy Sunrise Warming Muffins, which contain baking soda, baking powder, and sour cream, are tender and moist.

BAKING SODA AND BAKING POWDER: These chemical leavening agents produce gas when added to recipes in the presence of moisture and/or heat. Generally speaking, 1 teaspoon of baking powder or ¼ teaspoon of baking soda is adequate for leavening 1 cup of flour. I have noticed that many gluten-free recipes increase the amount of chemical leavening agents, probably to compensate for lack of gluten. But when gluten-free baking recipes are hydrated adequately, the baked goods will not have a problem rising.

Baking soda, or sodium bicarbonate, is always paired with one or more naturally acidic ingredients like vinegar, citrus juice, sour cream, molasses, honey, chocolate, brown sugar, or buttermilk. Baking soda is four times as powerful as baking powder. When combined with acid and moisture, baking soda immediately begins releasing most of its gas, although a little more is released when it is heated. When working with the compromised structure of gluten-free baked goods, you want to add baking soda as one of your final ingredients, and you want to get your creation in the oven as soon as possible to retain as many of the bubbles as you can. Too much baking soda will make baked goods taste soapy, with a kind of chemical taste. If there aren’t enough acidic ingredients in a batter or dough to neutralize the baking soda, it also can interact with the chlorophyll in sunflower seeds, berries, and some types of buckwheat, turning golden baked goods greenish. That is normal, but you may want to use spices and/or cocoa to disguise the color in those recipes.

Baking powder contains baking soda, one or more dry acid salts, and starch or filler to separate the soda from the acid. The acid salts release acid when they come in contact with liquids, and when the acid combines with the baking soda in the powder, it produces carbon dioxide.

ORANGE PULP: After buying a home juicer and seeing the mountain of pulp pile up, I went to the Internet to search for a use besides our composter. Among juicer fanatics, I found recipes using fruit and vegetable pulp in quick breads—dried orange pulp is often used to retain moisture and serve as a fat substitute (up to 5%) in shelf-stable and frozen baked goods. Those properties sounded like they were designed for gluten-free baked goods. Orange pulp definitely adds moisture as well as structure, and I have added it to my arsenal of natural ingredients. I haven’t yet tried drying the pulp in my dehydrator, but you can probably guess that’s in my future.