Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)

SEAFOOD

Hansen & Lydersen in London smokes salmon over juniper-infused hay. The recipe has been handed down through generations of Norwegian fishmongers.

CARAWAY SALMON WITH RYE BERRY AND BEET SALAD

Caraway Salmon with Rye Berry and Beet Salad

Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 40 min; Serves 4

SAUCE

¹/₂ cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt or sour cream

1 Tbsp. chopped dill

2 tsp. drained prepared horseradish

1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

Fine sea salt and pepper

SALAD

1 bunch of beets (1¹/₂ lbs.)—scrubbed, greens trimmed and reserved, beets sliced ¹/₂ inch thick

5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Fine sea salt and pepper

1 cup rye berries

2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

1 Tbsp. drained prepared horseradish

SALMON

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Four 6-oz. skin-on wild salmon fillets

Fine sea salt

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 tsp. caraway seeds

1. Make the sauce In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients, season with salt and pepper and mix well.

2. Make the salad Preheat the oven to 300°. On a rimmed baking sheet lined with aluminum foil, toss the sliced beets with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper. Arrange the beets in a single layer and roast until tender, flipping the slices halfway through, about 1 hour. Chop the beets and transfer to a large bowl.

3. Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add the rye berries and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until al dente, about 1 hour.

4. Drain the rye berries and add them to the bowl with the beets. Add the vinegar, horseradish and the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat evenly. Keep warm.

5. In a small saucepan of boiling water, blanch the beet greens for 2 minutes. Drain and cool under cold water; pat dry. Chop the greens and toss with the beets and rye berries.

6. Cook the salmon In a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet, heat the oil. Season the salmon with salt and cook skin side down over moderately high heat until golden and crisp, 4 minutes. Flip the fish and cook for 2 minutes. Add the butter and caraway seeds to the skillet and cook, basting with the caraway butter, until the salmon is just cooked through, 1 minute longer.

7. Mound the rye berry salad on plates and spoon some dill sauce alongside. Top with the salmon, skin side up. Serve, passing the remaining dill sauce at the table. —Marco Canora

MAKE AHEAD The dill sauce and cooked rye berries can be refrigerated in separate containers overnight.

WINE Boldly fruity California Sauvignon Blanc: 2013 Brander.

Salmon and Citrus Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing

Total 45 min; Serves 4 to 6

1 lb. salmon fillet

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₂ cup buttermilk

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1¹/₂ tsp. poppy seeds

2 medium navel oranges, such as Cara Cara, peeled and sliced ¹/₂ inch thick or separated into sections

1 medium grapefruit, peeled, sections cut into thirds

1 Hass avocado, sliced into wedges

Snipped chives, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Lay the salmon fillet skin side down on a rimmed baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Bake for about 20 minutes, until just cooked through. Let cool, then flake into large chunks; discard the skin.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the buttermilk with the olive oil and poppy seeds. Season the dressing with salt and pepper.

3. Arrange the salmon, oranges, grapefruit and avocado on a platter or plates. Drizzle some of the dressing on top. Garnish with snipped chives and serve, passing additional dressing at the table. —Justin Chapple

WINE Vibrant, medium-bodied Spanish white: 2013 Shaya Verdejo.

Seared Salmon with Anise-Cucumber Salad

Active 30 min; Total 50 min; Serves 4

At The Durham Hotel in Durham, North Carolina, chef Andrea Reusing’s menu is built around sustainable foods. Here, she pairs rich sockeye salmon with a creamy cucumber salad that mimics the cooling anise flavors of her favorite Thai dishes.

Four 6-oz. skin-on sockeye salmon fillets

Kosher salt and pepper

4 Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced

1 red onion, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. anise seeds

¹/₃ cup crème fraîche

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

20 basil leaves, torn

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and let stand for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a colander, toss the cucumbers, onion, anise seeds and 2 teaspoons of salt. Let stand for 30 minutes.

3. Gently squeeze the cucumbers dry. In a medium bowl, whisk the crème fraîche with the lemon juice. Add the cucumbers and onion and mix well, then gently stir in the basil.

4. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the salmon, skin side down, and flatten gently with a spatula. Cook over moderate heat until the skin is crisp, 4 minutes. Flip and cook until opaque throughout, 3 minutes longer. Serve with the salad. —Andrea Reusing

WINE Dry German Riesling: 2013 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Estate.

Roast Salmon with Miso Butter and Radish Salad

Total 35 min; Serves 4

Chef Jenn Louis of Lincoln Restaurant in Portland, Oregon, creates an umami-rich glaze for salmon using miso and butter.

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 Tbsp. red miso paste

Four 6-oz. center-cut salmon fillets

¹/₄ cup canola oil

Kosher salt and pepper

2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

6 radishes, thinly sliced

¹/₂ English cucumber, coarsely chopped

2 scallions, thinly sliced

1 small jalapeño, sliced

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tsp. minced fresh ginger

2 Tbsp. chopped mint

1 tsp. togarashi

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a small bowl, mash the butter with the miso until blended. Rub the salmon all over with 2 tablespoons of the canola oil, season with salt and pepper and arrange in a baking dish. Spread the miso butter over the top of the fillets and roast until just opaque throughout, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a platter.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons of canola oil with the sesame oil and vinegar; reserve 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Add all of the remaining ingredients to the dressing, season with salt and pepper and toss well.

3. Drizzle the reserved tablespoon of dressing over the salmon and serve with the radish salad. —Jenn Louis

WINE Juicy Oregon Chardonnay: 2013 Mouton Noir Knock on Wood.

Crisp Salmon with Sesame-Cumin Eggplant Panzanella

Active 25 min; Total 1 hr 20 min; Serves 4

¹/₂ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbsp. tahini

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 garlic cloves, minced

Kosher salt and pepper

2 medium eggplants, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 hothouse cucumber, sliced

1 red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 tsp. white sesame seeds, plus more for garnish

1¹/₂ tsp. ground cumin

3 oz. sesame bread, torn into small pieces

Four 6-oz. skin-on salmon fillets

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Chopped dill, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a small bowl, whisk 6 tablespoons of the olive oil with the tahini, lemon juice and garlic and season with salt and pepper.

2. Place the eggplant and cucumber in 2 separate medium bowls. Add 2 teaspoons of salt to the eggplant and 1 teaspoon of salt to the cucumber. Toss to coat and let stand for 15 minutes. Rinse and gently squeeze the eggplant and cucumber to remove the excess water; pat dry.

3. Transfer the eggplant to a rimmed baking sheet and the cucumber to a small bowl. Add all but ¹/₄ cup of the tahini dressing to the eggplant along with the onion, 2 teaspoons of sesame seeds and the cumin; season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Roast the eggplant for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. In a medium bowl, toss the bread with 2 tablespoons of the oil, then toss with the eggplant on the baking sheet. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until the bread and eggplant are golden brown. Toss with the cucumber. Spoon the salad onto plates and drizzle with half of the remaining tahini dressing.

5. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season the salmon with salt and pepper, add to the skillet skin side down and cook over moderately high heat until the skin is golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Flip the fish, add the butter to the skillet and baste until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Set the salmon on the eggplant and drizzle with the remaining dressing. Garnish with dill and sesame seeds and serve. —Kay Chun

WINE Fragrant, light-bodied red: 2013 Arnot-Roberts Trousseau.

SALMON AND CHERRY TOMATO SKEWERS WITH ROSEMARY VINAIGRETTE

Salmon and Cherry Tomato Skewers with Rosemary Vinaigrette

Total 40 min; Serves 4

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 tsp. Dijon mustard

2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary

Kosher salt and pepper

1¹/₂ lbs. skinless salmon fillet, cut into 1¹/₂-inch cubes

16 cherry tomatoes

4 long metal skewers, or wooden skewers soaked in water for 1 hour

1. In a small bowl, whisk the ¹/₄ cup of olive oil with the lemon juice, mustard and rosemary. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Thread the salmon and cherry tomatoes onto the skewers, brush with olive oil and season all over with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until the salmon is just cooked through, about 6 minutes. Transfer the skewers to a platter and drizzle with some of the vinaigrette. Serve right away, passing additional vinaigrette at the table. —Justin Chapple

WINE Berry-scented Provençal rosé: 2014 Chêne Bleu.

Grilled Salmon and Lentil Tacos with Spicy Pickled Onions

Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 6

For chef Camille Becerra, a perfect summer day means a trip to New York City’s Rockaway Beach, a surfers’ hangout. This recipe is an ode to the former Rockaway Taco, which Becerra still dreams about.

PICKLED ONIONS

3 red onions (1 lb.), thinly sliced

1 cup apple cider vinegar

¹/₂ cup sugar

4 dried chiles de árbol, lightly crushed

1 tsp. kosher salt

TACOS

1 cup green (du Puy) lentils, picked over

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 dried chile de árbol

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

3 Hass avocados, pitted and peeled

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Canola oil, for brushing

1¹/₂ lbs. skin-on center-cut salmon fillet

Warm corn tortillas and hot sauce, for serving

1. Pickle the onions Put the onions in a medium heatproof bowl. In a medium saucepan, combine the vinegar with the sugar, chiles, salt and 1¹/₂ cups of water and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Pour the brine over the onions, cover and let stand for 1 hour. Discard the chiles.

2. Meanwhile, make the tacos In a medium saucepan, combine the lentils with the garlic, salt and chile and cover with 2 inches of water. Bring to a simmer and cook over moderate heat until the lentils are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain the lentils; discard the chile and garlic. Transfer the lentils to a bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat.

3. In a medium bowl, mash the avocados with the lemon juice and season with salt.

4. Light a grill or heat a grill pan and brush with canola oil. Rub the salmon with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat, turning once, until just opaque throughout, 6 to 8 minutes per side; transfer to a platter.

5. Serve the salmon and lentils with the mashed avocado, pickled red onions, warm corn tortillas and hot sauce. —Camille Becerra

MAKE AHEAD The pickled onions can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

BEER Lively summer beer: Blue Point Summer Ale.

Salmon, Broccolini and Fresh Red Chile Papillotes

Active 15 min; Total 30 min; Serves 4

These impressive-looking salmon fillets baked in parchment are quick and easy, and there’s almost no cleanup involved.

1 lb. Broccolini

Four 6-oz. skinless center-cut salmon fillets

8 thin slices of lemon

1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced into rings

6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Lay 4 large sheets of parchment paper on a work surface. Divide the Broccolini among the parchment sheets and top each mound with a salmon fillet, 2 lemon slices and some chile rings; drizzle each fillet with 1¹/₂ tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Fold the parchment paper over the fish, then fold the edge over itself in small pleats to seal the papillotes.

2. Transfer the papillotes to a large baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, until slightly puffed. Carefully snip the packets open with scissors and serve. —Justin Chapple

WINE Crisp, white peach-scented northern Italian white: 2014 Alois Lageder Dolomiti Müller Thurgau.

Miso-Cured Salmon with Asparagus and Black Garlic Sauce

Total 1 hr plus overnight curing; Serves 4

Rubbing salmon with miso and letting it sit overnight imparts a huge amount of flavor; plus, it gives the pan-fried fillets a lovely burnished look. The simple, creamy black garlic sauce is subtle, delicious and striking-looking.

Four 5-oz. skin-on salmon fillets

¹/₄ cup white miso

1 lb. medium asparagus

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, thinly sliced

8 black garlic cloves (see Note), peeled

1 cup fish stock

1 cup heavy cream

Kosher salt and pepper

1. On a large plate, coat the salmon fillets with the miso. Wrap the fillets in plastic and refrigerate overnight.

2. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Cook the asparagus in a skillet of salted boiling water until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to the ice bath to cool, then drain and pat dry.

3. In a small saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the shallot and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the black garlic and fish stock and cook over moderate heat until the stock is reduced to ¹/₃ cup, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the cream and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes. Transfer the sauce to a blender and puree until smooth, then strain through a fine sieve set over a small saucepan, pressing on the solids. Season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

4. Wipe the miso off the salmon fillets and rinse them; pat thoroughly dry. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Cook the salmon skin side down over moderate heat until the skin is golden brown and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the fillets and cook over moderately low heat until just opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Transfer the salmon to a plate to drain briefly.

5. Wipe out the skillet and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the asparagus, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until warmed through, 2 minutes. Transfer the asparagus to plates. Top with the salmon fillets; drizzle with some of the black garlic sauce. Serve the remaining sauce on the side. —Dominic Quirke

NOTE Black garlic is prized for its sweet and savory, deep molasses-like flavor; its jelly-like texture makes it perfect for adding to sauces because it dissolves so easily. It’s available at specialty shops and from blackgarlic.com.

MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated for 3 days; rewarm before serving.

WINE Lively, minerally Muscadet: 2012 Michel Brégeon Muscadet Sur Lie.

Tuna Conserva with Grilled Shishito and Bean Salad

Total 30 min plus 4 hr marinating; Serves 8

L.A. chef Jon Shook’s wife, actress Shiri Appleby, is a huge fan of this light and tangy salad. “She asks me to make it for her and her friends every week,” he says.

TUNA CONSERVA

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

³/₄ cup fresh lemon juice

¹/₂ cup distilled white vinegar

3 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. grated garlic

Four 7-oz. cans water-packed best-quality tuna, drained

One 14¹/₂-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

2 carrots, sliced crosswise ¹/₈ inch thick

2 celery ribs, sliced crosswise ¹/₈ inch thick

¹/₂ small red onion, thinly sliced

¹/₄ cup coarsely chopped parsley

2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped oregano

SALAD

¹/₂ lb. shishito peppers

¹/₂ lb. green beans, trimmed

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1. Make the tuna conserva In a large bowl, whisk the oil with the lemon juice, vinegar, salt, sugar and garlic. Add all the remaining ingredients and gently toss until well combined. Cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 4 hours, stirring every hour.

2. Make the salad Light a grill. In a large bowl, toss the shishito peppers and green beans with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Using a grill pan, grill over moderate heat, turning, until the shishitos and beans are lightly charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a platter, top with the tuna conserva and serve. —Jon Shook

MAKE AHEAD The tuna conserva can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

WINE Crisp northern Italian Riesling: 2012 Kuenhof Kaiton.

TUNA ESCABECHE TOSTADAS

Tuna Escabeche Tostadas

Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

Canola oil, for frying

6 corn tortillas

Kosher salt

15 oz. tuna in olive oil, drained

¹/₄ cup chopped pickled Mexican jalapeños and carrots from a can plus ¹/₄ cup of the brine

Cilantro leaves, sliced radishes and toasted pumpkin seeds, for serving

1. In a medium skillet, heat ¹/₄ inch of oil. Add 1 tortilla to the hot oil and fry over moderate heat, turning, until browned and crisp, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain; season lightly with salt. Repeat with the remaining tortillas.

2. In a medium bowl, mix the tuna with the jalapeños and carrots and their brine. Spoon the tuna onto the tostadas and top with cilantro, radishes and toasted pumpkin seeds. Serve. —Justin Chapple

BEER Lightly hoppy, crisp lager: Victory Prima Pils.

Pan-Seared Tuna Steaks with Ginger Vinaigrette

Total 30 min; Serves 4

5 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

5 Tbsp. sake

2¹/₂ Tbsp. mirin

3 Tbsp. minced shallot

¹/₂ Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger

¹/₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1 bunch of Broccolini, trimmed

Two 1-inch-thick yellowfin tuna steaks

2 tsp. toasted white sesame seeds

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a small saucepan, simmer the soy sauce, sake, mirin and shallot until the liquid is slightly reduced, 3 minutes. Remove from the heat; stir in the ginger. Slowly whisk in ¹/₄ cup of the oil. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper.

2. In a steamer basket set in a large saucepan of simmering water, steam the Broccolini until tender, about 6 minutes. Transfer to plates.

3. Meanwhile, in a nonstick skillet, heat the remaining oil. Season the tuna with salt and pepper. Sear over high heat until golden brown but still rare within, 30 seconds per side. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Slice against the grain and transfer to the plates. Drizzle with some of the vinaigrette and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Serve with lemon and the remaining vinaigrette. —Kuniko Yagi

WINE Lively, fruit-forward California Chenin Blanc: 2013 Vinum Cellars.

Grilled Tuna with Red Wine Sauce

Total 50 min; Serves 6

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 medium shallots, halved

³/₄ cup Pinot Noir

¹/₂ cup fish stock or clam juice

¹/₂ cup drained oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes

1 garlic clove

¹/₄ cup pitted oil-cured olives

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Kosher salt

Six 6-oz. tuna steaks, 1 inch thick

1. In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften and brown, 3 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil, then simmer over moderately high heat until reduced to ¹/₂ cup, 5 minutes. Add the fish stock and simmer over moderately low heat until reduced to ¹/₂ cup, 10 minutes; discard the shallots.

2. In a food processor, puree the sun-dried tomatoes and garlic until nearly smooth. Add the olives and pulse until a coarse paste forms. Add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and pulse to incorporate. Scrape into a medium bowl and whisk in the wine reduction. Season the sauce with salt.

3. Heat a large cast-iron skillet or griddle over high heat. Brush the tuna steaks with oil and season generously with salt. Cook over high heat, turning once, until lightly browned outside and rare within, about 2 minutes total. Transfer to plates and serve with the sauce. —Nate Ready

WINE Dark-berried Oregon Pinot Noir: 2012 Hiyu.

Hake with Walnut Tahini and Carrot Tabbouleh

Total 40 min; Serves 4

Chef Ana Sortun of Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts, tops hake with a rich, spicy walnut tahini inspired by Lebanese tarator sauce. The fresh carrot tabbouleh served alongside adds more bright flavor.

2 carrots, chopped

1 cup parsley leaves

¹/₄ cup chopped dill

¹/₄ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt

3 garlic cloves, crushed

¹/₄ cup walnuts (1 oz.)

¹/₄ cup tahini

¹/₂ jalapeño, chopped

¹/₂ cup cilantro leaves

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. ground coriander

Four 6-oz. skinless hake or cod fillets

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a food processor, pulse the carrots until finely chopped. Add ¹/₂ cup of the parsley and the dill and pulse until minced. Scrape into a bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon each of oil and lemon juice. Season the carrot tabbouleh with salt.

2. Wipe out the processor. Add the garlic and walnuts; pulse until chopped. Add the tahini, jalapeño, cilantro, cumin, coriander, ¹/₄ cup of the oil and the remaining ¹/₂ cup of parsley and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice. Pulse until smooth. Scrape the walnut tahini into a bowl; season with salt.

3. Arrange the fish in a medium baking dish. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, season with salt and turn to coat. Roast for 8 to 10 minutes, until the fish is cooked through. Transfer to plates. Spread some of the walnut tahini on the fillets and spoon the carrot tabbouleh alongside. Serve the remaining tahini at the table. —Ana Sortun

WINE Robust, full-bodied California Chardonnay: 2012 Bacchus.

Hake, Clams and Chorizo in Broth with Paella Rice

Total 45 min; Serves 4

BROTH

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 small shallot, thinly sliced

1 bay leaf

1 tsp. crushed fennel seeds

Pinch of saffron threads

2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

24 manila clams or cockles, scrubbed

3 oz. Spanish chorizo, cut into ¹/₄-inch dice

1¹/₂ Tbsp. minced garlic

Kosher salt and pepper

FISH

Four 5-oz. skinless hake fillets

Kosher salt and pepper

Smoked sweet paprika

All-purpose flour, for dusting

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Paella Rice (recipe follows), for serving

1. Make the broth In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the shallot, bay leaf, fennel seeds and saffron and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Cover, remove from the heat and let steep for 10 minutes.

2. Return the broth to a boil and add the clams, chorizo and garlic. Season with salt and pepper, cover and cook over high heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams just open, about 5 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and keep the broth warm.

3. Meanwhile, cook the fish Season the hake fillets with salt, pepper and smoked paprika and dust with flour. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the fish and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until golden and just cooked through, about 6 minutes.

4. Transfer the fish to shallow bowls. Spoon the clams, chorizo and broth around the fish and serve with Paella Rice. —Sandy D’Amato

WINE Citrusy, full-bodied Spanish white: 2013 Finca Os Cobatos Godello.

PAELLA RICE

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 5 min Serves 4 to 6

The success of this ham-, chorizo- and pepper-studded side dish depends on the rice. For the best texture, use a short-grain Spanish variety such as Bomba or Calasparra, or a short-grain Japanese rice.

4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

Pinch of saffron threads

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

¹/₃ cup finely diced Spanish chorizo

¹/₃ cup finely diced ham

¹/₃ cup finely diced red bell pepper

¹/₃ cup finely diced green bell pepper

2 bay leaves

1¹/₂ tsp. minced garlic

1¹/₂ cups short-grain rice, such as Bomba

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the stock with the saffron and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and bring just to a boil. Remove from the heat.

2. Meanwhile, in a large, deep skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften, about 7 minutes. Add the chorizo, ham, red and green peppers, bay leaves and garlic. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until coated, about 1 minute.

3. Add the chicken stock to the skillet and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and cook over moderately low heat until the rice is tender and the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Let stand for 15 minutes, then fluff with a fork. Discard the bay leaves. Season the rice with salt and pepper and serve. —SD

GRILLED SNAPPER WITH PINK CHILE SALT

Grilled Snapper with Pink Chile Salt

Total 40 min; Serves 4

Once you make the pink chile salt that seasons both the fish and the salad here, you’ll want to have it on everything from raw and cooked summer vegetables to grilled bread, melons, mangoes and margaritas.

1 fresh hot red chile, stemmed and chopped

1¹/₄ cups kosher salt

2 Tbsp. grapeseed or canola oil, plus more for brushing

Four 6-oz. skin-on red snapper fillets

¹/₄ cup minced red onion

2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar

12 multicolored radishes, half thinly sliced and half cut into thin wedges

1 small kohlrabi, peeled and thinly sliced

Radish sprouts, for garnish

1. In a food processor, puree the red chile with the kosher salt until the salt is pink with flecks of chile. Transfer the pink chile salt to an airtight container.

2. Light a grill or heat a nonstick grill pan. Oil the grate or the pan. Brush the fish with grapeseed oil and season with pink chile salt. Grill over moderate heat, turning once, until just cooked through, about 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, cover the onion with the vinegar and let stand for 5 minutes. Add the radishes, kohlrabi and the 2 tablespoons of grapeseed oil and toss well. Season the salad with pink chile salt and toss again.

4. Transfer the snapper fillets to plates and serve the radish salad alongside, garnished with radish sprouts. —Justin Chapple

MAKE AHEAD The pink chile salt can be kept in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

WINE Fruit-forward dry rosé: 2014 Muga.

EASY PERSIAN FRIED FISH

Easy Persian Fried Fish

Total 20 min; Serves 4

Cookbook author Naomi Duguid learned this recipe by spending time in the kitchen with a woman from Bushehr, a port city in Iran that’s famous for its fish dishes. Turmeric imparts a vibrant color; the mild, nutty fenugreek leaves have a distinctive maple flavor.

¹/₄ cup all-purpose flour

1 Tbsp. crumbled fenugreek leaves (see Note)

¹/₂ Tbsp. each dried mint, dried dill and dried thyme

¹/₂ tsp. cayenne

¹/₄ tsp. ground turmeric

Four 6-oz. skin-on red snapper fillets

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₄ cup vegetable oil

Lemon wedges and greens, for serving

1. In a shallow bowl, whisk the flour with the fenugreek, mint, dill, thyme, cayenne and turmeric. Season the fish with salt and pepper; dredge in the flour.

2. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the fish skin side down and press with a spatula to flatten. Cook over moderately high heat until the skin is browned, 4 minutes. Turn the fish and cook until white throughout, 2 minutes longer. Serve with lemon wedges and greens. —Naomi Duguid

NOTE Fenugreek leaves are available at Indian markets and from kalustyans.com.

WINE Crisp but full-bodied Chardonnay: 2013 Vincent Mothe Chablis.

Fish Tacos with Tomatillo-Jalapeño Salsa

Total 45 min; Serves 4

These light yet satisfying tacos are from chef Deborah Schneider of Sol Cocina in Newport Beach, California. She fills warm corn tortillas with meaty charred halibut and a spicy, tart salsa verde.

SALSA

4 medium tomatillos—husked, rinsed and quartered

¹/₂ cup lightly packed cilantro

2 small jalapeños, chopped

1¹/₂ Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 tsp. vegetable oil

Kosher salt

TACOS

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. minced cilantro

1 small garlic clove, minced

1 lb. skinless halibut fillet, about ³/₄ inch thick

Kosher salt

Warm corn tortillas, chopped avocado and sliced red onion and cucumber, for serving

1. Make the salsa In a blender, combine all of the ingredients except the salt and puree until nearly smooth. Season with salt and transfer to a small bowl.

2. Make the tacos Heat a grill pan. In a large baking dish, whisk the lemon juice with the olive oil, cilantro and garlic. Add the fish and turn to coat. Season the fish all over with salt and grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until white throughout, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the fish to a platter and flake into large pieces with a fork. Serve the fish in warm corn tortillas with the salsa, avocado, red onion and cucumber. —Deborah Schneider

MAKE AHEAD The salsa can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

BEER Hoppy American pale ale: Evil Twin Brewing Hipster Ale.

Red Snapper with Grilled Radicchio Salad

Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 6

Star chef Michael Symon makes this recipe when he wants to cook an entire meal on the grill—including the salad.

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano

¹/₃ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Two 2-lb. whole red snappers, cleaned

Kosher salt and pepper

Canola oil, for brushing

2 heads of radicchio (1 lb.), quartered through the core

¹/₂ tsp. finely grated orange zest plus ¹/₄ cup fresh orange juice

1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1. In a roasting pan or large baking dish, whisk the lemon juice with the oregano and ¹/₃ cup of the olive oil. Using a sharp knife, make 3 diagonal slits ¹/₂ inch deep on both sides of each fish. Season the fish inside and out with salt and pepper and add to the marinade; turn to coat. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, turning once.

2. Light a grill and brush the grate with canola oil. Grill the fish over moderate heat, turning once, until cooked through, 13 to 15 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter.

3. In a medium bowl, toss the radicchio with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat, turning, until lightly charred and crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Arrange on the platter. Drizzle the fish and radicchio with the orange juice, vinegar and olive oil. Sprinkle with the orange zest and serve. —Michael Symon

WINE Juicy California rosé: 2014 Edmunds St. John Bone-Jolly.

Steamed Sea Bass with Potatoes and Avocado-Tarragon Salsa

Total 45 min; Serves 4

Fresh grapefruit juice flavors the sea bass and potatoes while they steam; a little of it also goes into the tasty salsa.

1 lb. small Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced ¹/₄ inch thick

2 Tbsp. drained capers

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

Four 5- to 6-oz. skin-on sea bass fillets

3 Tbsp. fresh grapefruit juice

1 Hass avocado—peeled, pitted and chopped

2 Tbsp. chopped tarragon

1. In a medium bowl, combine the potatoes, capers and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil; season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. On a heatproof plate that fits inside a large enameled cast-iron casserole, arrange the potatoes in a slightly overlapping layer. Place a small heatproof bowl upside down in the center of the casserole and place the plate with the potatoes on top. Add enough water to reach 1 inch up the side of the casserole. Bring the water to a simmer, cover the casserole and steam the potatoes over moderate heat until almost tender, about 15 minutes.

2. Rub the fish with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the fillets on top of the potatoes, skin side up, in a single layer and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the grapefruit juice. Cover and steam until the potatoes are tender and the fish is just opaque throughout, about 8 minutes longer.

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, toss the avocado with the tarragon and the remaining 1 tablespoon of grapefruit juice; season with salt and pepper.

4. Transfer the potatoes and fish to plates. Top with any juices from the plate and the avocado salsa and serve. —Kay Chun

WINE Zesty, peppery New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: 2014 Astrolabe.

Sea Bass with Prosciutto and Sage

Total 20 min; Serves 4

Cookbook author Katie Caldesi makes this buttery, fragrant, decadent riff on classic saltimbocca in just minutes.

Four 6-oz. skin-on sea bass fillets

Kosher salt and pepper

4 thin slices of prosciutto (2 oz.)

4 large sage leaves

¹/₂ cup all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₄ cup dry white wine

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1. Season the fish with salt and pepper. Arrange 1 slice of prosciutto and 1 sage leaf on the flesh side of each fillet, then secure with toothpicks.

2. In a medium bowl, stir the flour with ¹/₄ teaspoon each of salt and pepper.

3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil. Dredge the fish in the flour mixture, shaking off the excess. Add the fish to the skillet, prosciutto side down, and cook over moderate heat until golden, about 3 minutes. Flip the fish and cook until golden outside and just opaque throughout, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Transfer the fish to plates and remove the toothpicks.

4. Add the wine to the skillet and cook until reduced by half, 1 to 2 minutes. Whisk in the butter and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the fish and serve warm. —Katie Caldesi

WINE Floral, medium-bodied Piedmontese white: 2014 Bruno Giacosa Arneis.

HALIBUT IN PARCHMENT WITH CORN AND TOMATOES

Halibut in Parchment with Corn and Tomatoes

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4

One 1¹/₂-lb. center-cut skinless halibut fillet, 1 inch thick

1 Tbsp. sugar

2 tsp. fennel seeds

1 tsp. whole black peppercorns, plus ground pepper for seasoning

1 tsp. whole coriander seeds

Kosher salt

4 ears of corn, kernels cut off 3, 1 cob reserved

6 oz. wax or green beans, trimmed

15 small cherry tomatoes (about 8 oz.), preferably on the vine

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₂ Tbsp. white wine vinegar

3 tarragon sprigs

2 thyme sprigs

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed

1. Place the halibut in a shallow baking dish. In a medium saucepan, combine 1 cup of water with the sugar, fennel seeds, peppercorns, coriander seeds and 2¹/₂ tablespoons of kosher salt and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring, until the salt and sugar dissolve. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 3 cups of ice water. Pour the cold brine over the halibut and let stand at room temperature for 25 minutes. Remove the halibut from the brine and pat it dry; discard the brine. Season the halibut lightly on one side with salt and pepper.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°. Arrange a 12-by-32-inch piece of parchment paper on a baking sheet. Mound the corn kernels on one half of the parchment and top with the fish, skinless side up, leaving a 3-inch border on 3 sides. Top with the beans and tomatoes, then drizzle with the oil and vinegar. Scatter the herbs on top. Set the reserved corn cob next to the fish. Top the fish with the butter. Fold the parchment over the fish and pleat, fold and crimp the edges to seal; add 3 tablespoons of water before completely sealing the packet.

3. Roast for 20 minutes, until the halibut is just opaque throughout. Transfer the packet to a serving platter, open and serve. —Kristen Kish

WINE Vibrant, lemon-scented Spanish white: 2013 Martínsancho Verdejo.

Steamed Sea Bass with Carrots Three Ways

Total 50 min; Serves 4

In this bright and delicate dish, chef Ludovic Pouzelgues of Lulu Rouget in Nantes, France, features carrots three ways: He purees some until silky, slices some into thin ribbons and marinates them, and frizzles the frilly green tops to serve as a garnish.

6 medium carrots with very fresh tops, carrots peeled and ¹/₄ cup carrot tops reserved

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

Kosher salt and pepper

2 tsp. black sesame seeds

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

¹/₄ tsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger

Four 5-oz. skinless sea bass fillets

Canola oil, for frying

1 scallion, thinly sliced

One 2-inch strip of orange zest, julienned

Fleur de sel, for garnish

1. Chop 4 of the carrots into ¹/₂-inch pieces. In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the chopped carrots until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well. Transfer the carrots to a blender, add the butter and sesame oil and puree until smooth; season with salt and pepper and keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast the sesame seeds over low heat, stirring, until fragrant, 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

3. Using a vegetable peeler, shave the remaining 2 carrots lengthwise into ribbons. In a medium bowl, toss the carrot ribbons with the olive oil, lemon juice and ginger and season with salt and pepper.

4. Season the sea bass with salt and pepper and arrange in a steamer basket set over a saucepan of simmering water. Cover and steam until just white throughout, 4 to 5 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat ¹/₈ inch of canola oil. Add the carrot tops and fry over moderate heat until deep green, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain; the carrot tops will crisp as they cool.

6. Spread the carrot puree on plates; top with the steamed fish and carrot salad. Garnish with the sesame seeds, fried carrot tops, scallion and orange zest. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and pepper and serve. —Ludovic Pouzelgues

MAKE AHEAD The carrot puree can be refrigerated overnight and rewarmed before serving.

WINE Brisk, minerally Muscadet: 2013 Luneau-Papin La Grange.

Grilled Sea Bream

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 6

Chef Scott Conant, a judge on Food Network’s Chopped, employs what he calls “a boat owner’s trick” for whole fish: He soaks it in salted water for an hour before grilling to keep the flesh moist and to ensure crispy skin.

Two 1¹/₂-lb. cleaned whole sea bream (orata)

Kosher salt

Canola oil, for brushing

4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1. In a large bowl, cover the fish with cool water. Generously salt the water and let stand for 1 hour at room temperature. Drain the fish and pat dry.

2. Light a grill to medium and oil the grate. Rub the fish with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season lightly with salt. Grill, turning once, until cooked through, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a platter, drizzle with the remaining olive oil and serve. —Scott Conant

WINE Crisp, lemony Greek white: 2013 Semeli Mountain Sun Moschofilero.

Grilled Branzino with Skordalia and Ladolemono

Active 30 min; Total 50 min; Serves 4 to 6

F&W Best New Chef 2015 Zoi Antonitsas of Westward in Seattle tops flaky grilled fish with a super-lemony Greek ladolemono sauce. She serves it with the tangy, garlicky potato puree called skordalia.

SKORDALIA

2¹/₂ lbs. baking potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

Kosher salt

³/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₃ cup Champagne vinegar

¹/₄ cup fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. finely grated garlic

FISH

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus ¹/₄ cup fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 tsp. chopped marjoram

¹/₂ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Kosher salt and pepper

Four 1- to 1¹/₄-lb. whole branzino, cleaned

1. Make the skordalia In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Season with salt and simmer over moderate heat until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well. Press the potatoes through a ricer into the saucepan. Stir in the olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice and garlic and season with salt. Keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the fish In a small bowl, whisk the lemon zest and lemon juice with the Dijon, oregano and marjoram. Gradually whisk in the ¹/₂ cup of olive oil until incorporated. Season the ladolemono with salt and pepper.

3. Light a grill and oil the grate. Season the fish with salt and pepper and grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until white throughout, about 15 minutes. Transfer the fish to plates and serve with the ladolemono and skordalia. —Zoi Antonitsas

WINE Citrusy, medium-bodied Greek white: 2013 Hatzidakis Santorini Assyrtiko.

Cornmeal-Crusted Trout with Caper-Cherry Pepper Pan Sauce

Total 40 min; Serves 4

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium shallots, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

³/₄ cup dry white wine

2¹/₂ Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

4 small jarred hot cherry peppers, seeded and chopped

1 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

2 tsp. salt-packed capers, rinsed and chopped

¹/₂ tsp. finely grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₂ cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

1¹/₂ cups fine cornmeal

Four 6-oz. skin-on trout fillets

¹/₄ cup vegetable oil

1. In a saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 2 minutes. Add the wine and lemon juice; bring to a boil, then simmer over moderate heat until reduced to ¹/₂ cup, 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until incorporated. Stir in the hot peppers, 1 tablespoon of parsley, the capers and lemon zest; season with salt and pepper. Keep warm over very low heat.

2. Spread the flour in a shallow bowl. In another shallow bowl, beat the eggs. In a third shallow bowl, spread the cornmeal. Season the trout with salt and pepper. Coat in the flour; dip in the egg, letting the excess drip off; then dredge in the cornmeal.

3. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the vegetable oil until shimmering. Working in batches if necessary, add the trout fillets and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned and crisp, about 4 minutes total. Drain on paper towels, then transfer to a platter. Spoon the sauce on top, garnish with parsley and serve with lemon wedges. —Colby Garrelts

WINE Zesty, herb-scented Vermentino: 2012 Rocca delle Macìe Occhio a Vento.

Sole Fillets with Herbed Wine Sauce

Total 45 min; Serves 4

2 medium tomatoes, cored and scored on the bottoms with an X

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

¹/₂ cup dry white wine

¹/₃ cup fish stock or clam juice

³/₄ cup heavy cream

¹/₃ cup chopped mixed herbs, like parsley, basil, chives and chervil

2 Tbsp. dry vermouth

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and pepper

1¹/₄ lbs. sole fillets

Crusty bread, for serving

1. In a saucepan of boiling water, blanch the tomatoes until the skins just wrinkle, 30 seconds. Drain and cool under running water, then peel and cut into ¹/₄-inch dice.

2. Wipe out the saucepan and melt the butter in it. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and simmer over moderately high heat until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the fish stock and simmer until the liquid is reduced to ¹/₂ cup, about 3 minutes. Add the heavy cream and simmer until thickened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the diced tomatoes, herbs, vermouth and nutmeg. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

3. Preheat the broiler and position the rack 8 inches from the heat. Season the sole lightly with salt and pepper and transfer to a 2-quart flameproof baking dish. Spoon the sauce on top and broil for 8 to 10 minutes, until the sauce is bubbling and the fish is just cooked through. Let stand for 5 minutes before serving with crusty bread. —Mimi Thorisson

WINE Orange rind-scented white Bordeaux: 2012 Château Villa Bel-Air Graves.

Sesame Trout Meunière with Dried Apricots

Total 40 min; Serves 4

For the dried apricots here, be sure to use a good-quality sweet and tart variety like Blenheims; they make a wonderful accent to the sesame-crusted fish.

³/₄ cup toasted sesame seeds

Four 5-oz. skin-on trout fillets, pinbones removed

6 Tbsp. canola oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

¹/₄ cup minced shallots

1 garlic clove, minced

2 Tbsp. apricot preserves

2 Tbsp. chopped dried apricots

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Spread the sesame seeds on a plate. Rub the trout fillets with 2 tablespoons of the canola oil and season with salt and pepper. Coat the flesh side of each fillet with sesame seeds, pressing gently to help them adhere.

2. Preheat the broiler. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil. Place 2 fillets skin side down in the skillet and cook over moderate heat until the skin is crisp and the fish is almost cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer the fillets skin side down to a rack set over a baking sheet. Wipe out the skillet and cook the remaining 2 fillets in the remaining 2 tablespoons of canola oil. Broil 8 inches from the heat until the seeds are golden and the fish is cooked through, 3 minutes. Transfer to plates.

3. Melt the butter in the skillet. Add the shallots and garlic; cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the butter is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Off the heat, stir in the apricot preserves, dried apricots, lemon juice, sesame oil and parsley. Season with salt and pepper, spoon the sauce over the fish and serve with lemon wedges. —Rich Torrisi

WINE Dry, stone fruit-inflected Alsace Riesling: 2012 Marcel Deiss.

THAI COOKING TUTORIAL

Chef ANDY RICKER of the Pok Pok restaurants in New York City and Portland, Oregon, shows how to use authentic ingredients to prepare a signature recipe from Thailand’s Isan region: grilled catfish with sticky rice and an intense, fragrant dipping sauce.

Isan-Style Catfish with Sticky Rice and Jaew Dipping Sauce

Active 1 hr 15 min; Total 2 hr 30 min plus overnight soaking; Serves 4

4 cups plus 2 Tbsp. Thai sweet (sticky) rice (30 oz.)

2 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded

4 chiles de árbol, stemmed and seeded

3 Tbsp. packed finely chopped Thai palm sugar or light brown sugar

2¹/₂ Tbsp. boiling water

8 lemongrass stalks, outer leaves removed, inner cores thinly sliced

7 Tbsp. lime juice

¹/₄ cup Thai fish sauce

3 Tbsp. Thai “thin” soy sauce

1¹/₂ tsp. Thai seasoning sauce

¹/₂ cup coarsely chopped garlic (15 large cloves)

¹/₄ cup kosher salt

Two 2-lb. whole domestic-farmed catfish, cleaned

2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro

1. In a large bowl, cover the rice with 2 inches of cold water and let soak for at least 8 hours or overnight.

2. Meanwhile, make the jaew Heat a large wok or nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the guajillo chiles, reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the chiles de árbol and cook, stirring, until the chiles are very dark, about 3 minutes longer. Transfer the chiles to a spice grinder and let cool, then grind coarsely. Transfer to a medium bowl. In a small bowl, stir the palm sugar with the boiling water until the sugar dissolves. Stir 3 tablespoons of the syrup into the ground chiles; discard any remaining syrup.

3. In a mortar or food processor, pound or pulse the lemongrass to a coarse puree. Add half of the lemongrass to the chile mixture along with the lime juice, fish sauce, soy sauce and Thai seasoning sauce. Let stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour or refrigerate for up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

4. Make the toasted rice powder Preheat the oven to 325°. Drain 2 tablespoons of the rice and spread out on a small foil-lined baking pan. Bake, stirring occasionally, until light golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool, then process in a spice grinder until finely ground.

5. Make the fish Add the garlic and salt to the remaining lemongrass in the mortar or food processor and pound or pulse to a chunky paste. Set the catfish on a baking sheet and score down to the bone at 1-inch intervals. Rub the lemongrass paste all over the fish, inside and out.

6. Light a hardwood charcoal fire and rake the coals to one side. Grill the fish over indirect heat (opposite the coals), covered, until cooked through, 45 minutes to 1 hour; you may need to add hot coals periodically to maintain the heat. Alternatively, roast the fish in a 350° oven for about 35 minutes, until it is cooked all the way through and flakes easily.

7. Meanwhile, make the sticky rice In a wok, bring 3 inches of water to a boil. Line a bamboo steamer with a double thickness of cheesecloth. Drain the remaining rice in a colander and set the colander in a large bowl. Fill the bowl with cold water and gently stir the rice; the water will become cloudy. Lift the colander from the bowl and pour out the water. Repeat this process until the water runs clear. Spread the rice in the steamer in an even layer and fold the overhanging cheesecloth over it. Cover the steamer and set it in the wok. Steam the rice until tender, about 15 minutes; halfway through steaming, using 2 tongs, carefully flip the rice over in the cheesecloth. It should be tender but chewy when done. Transfer the rice to a bowl, cover and let stand for 15 minutes.

8. To serve Transfer the catfish to a platter. Stir the toasted rice powder and cilantro into the jaew sauce and serve with the fish and sticky rice.

WINE Juicy, watermelon-inflected Spanish rosé: 2014 Campos de Luz.

TWO KEY STEPS

GRIND Toasted, finely ground uncooked rice thickens the dipping sauce and adds a nutty flavor.

RUB A chunky lemongrass paste rubbed all over the fish, inside and out, permeates it with bright flavor as it grills.

GRILLED LOBSTER WITH MISO-CHILE BUTTER

Grilled Lobsters with Miso-Chile Butter

Total 40 min; Serves 4

“If we’re grilling for a big group, we get our lobsters halved and cleaned at the fishmonger,” says F&W’s Gail Simmons. “It really cuts down on work and mess.”

1 stick unsalted butter, cubed

2 Tbsp. white miso

1 Tbsp. Sriracha

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus wedges for serving

2 bunches of scallions

1 Tbsp. canola oil

Kosher salt and pepper

8 long metal skewers

Four 1¹/₂-lb. lobsters, halved lengthwise, claws detached and reserved

1. In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Whisk in the miso, Sriracha and lemon juice. Reserve ¹/₄ cup of the miso-chile butter for serving.

2. Light a grill. In a large bowl, toss the scallions with the oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the scallions over moderate heat, turning, until lightly charred and tender, 5 minutes. Chop the scallions and toss with 1 tablespoon of the miso-chile butter.

3. Skewer the lobster bodies from the tail to the head to keep them straight. Brush the lobster meat with 2 tablespoons of the miso-chile butter. Grill the lobster bodies and claws over moderate heat, turning and basting the meat with the remaining miso-chile butter, until the shells are bright red, 7 to 8 minutes for the tails and 12 to 15 minutes for the claws. Remove the skewers.

4. Arrange the lobsters on a platter or plates and scatter the scallions on top. Serve with lemon wedges and the reserved ¹/₄ cup of miso-chile butter. —Gail Simmons

WINE Herb-scented, full-bodied Italian white: 2013 Garofoli Macrina Verdicchio.

Crab Salad with Corn Pudding and Carolina Gold Rice

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 6

This composed salad elegantly combines three Southern favorites—buttery corn, tangy crab salad and nutty heirloom rice.

CORN PUDDING

3 ears of corn, shucked

1 tsp. unflavored powdered gelatin

1 stick unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

1 small shallot, minced

Kosher salt

¹/₄ cup heavy cream

RICE

2 cups Carolina Gold rice

1 bay leaf

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Kosher salt

SALAD

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbsp. finely chopped parsley

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. minced jalapeño

Kosher salt

1 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over

Thinly sliced jalapeños and popped sorghum (see Note), for garnish

Hot sauce, for serving

1. Make the pudding Using the large holes of a box grater, grate the corn into a medium bowl; discard the cobs. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over 2 tablespoons of cold water. In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the shallot and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the corn and cook, stirring frequently, until thickened and the corn is tender, about 5 minutes.

2. Scrape the corn into a blender. Add the gelatin and puree until smooth. With the blender on, gradually add the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter until incorporated. Strain the corn mixture through a fine sieve into a medium bowl and season the puree with salt. Let cool slightly.

3. In a medium bowl, whip the cream until firm. Fold into the corn puree and let cool completely. Refrigerate until chilled and set, about 45 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, make the rice In a medium saucepan, bring 3¹/₄ cups of water to a boil. Add the rice, bay leaf, 1 tablespoon of the butter and a generous pinch of salt and return to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat until the rice is tender and the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 20 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Fold in the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and season with salt.

5. Make the salad In a medium bowl, mix the olive oil with the parsley, lemon juice and minced jalapeño and season with salt. Gently fold in the crab. Spoon the rice into shallow bowls and top with the crab salad and corn pudding. Garnish with sliced jalapeños and popped sorghum and serve with hot sauce. —Michael Fojtasek and Grae Nonas

NOTE Popped sorghum is available at health food stores.

MAKE AHEAD The corn pudding can be refrigerated overnight.

WINE Ripe, full-bodied Oregon Chardonnay: 2013 Argyle.

Pan-Seared Pickerel on Mixed Vegetable and Crab Panzanella

Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4

Matthew DeMille, chef at Drake Devonshire Inn in Canada’s Prince Edward County, makes this dish with pickerel, a flaky white fish that comes right from Lake Ontario. If pickerel isn’t available, flounder or perch would also be delicious.

1 cup cubed ciabatta (1-inch pieces)

¹/₄ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₄ cup sherry vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 red bell peppers

2 yellow bell peppers

Canola oil, for brushing

1 small red onion, sliced crosswise ¹/₂ inch thick

1 ear of corn, shucked

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₂ fennel bulb—halved, cored and thinly sliced

12 cherry tomatoes, halved

4 oz. jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over (¹/₂ cup)

Four 6-oz. skin-on pickerel, flounder or perch fillets

¹/₄ cup lightly packed parsley leaves

¹/₄ cup lightly packed mint leaves

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the ciabatta cubes with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and bake, tossing occasionally, until crisp and golden, 8 to 10 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk the vinegar with the garlic and let stand for 10 minutes.

2. Roast the red and yellow peppers directly over a gas flame or under the broiler, turning, until charred all over. Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let cool, about 15 minutes. Peel, stem and seed the peppers, then cut them into 1¹/₂-inch pieces. Add to the vinegar in the bowl.

3. Light a grill or heat a grill pan and oil the grate. Season the onion and corn with salt and pepper and grill over high heat, turning as necessary, until tender and nicely charred, about 6 minutes. Cut the kernels off the cob. Add the corn, onion, croutons, fennel, tomatoes, crabmeat and ¹/₄ cup of the olive oil to the bowl with the peppers and toss well. Season the panzanella with salt and pepper.

4. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil until shimmering. Season the fish with salt and pepper and add to the skillet skin side down. Cook over moderately high heat, gently pressing with a spatula, until the skin is browned and crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the fillets and cook until the fish is white throughout, 2 to 3 minutes longer.

5. Toss three-quarters each of the parsley and mint leaves with the panzanella and mound on plates or a platter. Top with the fish, garnish with the remaining parsley and mint and serve immediately. —Matthew DeMille

WINE Creamy, full-bodied Chardonnay: 2013 Closson Chase Vineyards.

Seared Sea Scallops with Ricotta and Spring Pea Mash and Chive Oil

Total 1 hr; Serves 4

There are three simple parts to this dish from star chef Emeril Lagasse. The ricotta and pea mash and the chive oil can be made well in advance, so the only last-minute task is cooking the scallops.

CHIVE OIL

2 cups chopped chives (4 oz.)

¹/₂ cup canola oil

Kosher salt

RICOTTA AND SPRING PEA MASH

1¹/₂ cups baby peas

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint

2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 Tbsp. finely chopped basil

1 Tbsp. minced shallot

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. minced garlic

1 cup fresh ricotta cheese

Kosher salt and pepper

SCALLOPS

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

12 extra-large sea scallops (about 2 lbs.)

Kosher salt and pepper

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Make the chive oil Fill a medium bowl with ice water. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, blanch the chives for 10 seconds. Drain, then transfer the chives to the ice bath to cool. Drain well. Squeeze out as much water from the chives as possible and pat dry.

2. In a blender, puree the chives with the canola oil until smooth. Strain the chive oil through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing on the solids. Season the chive oil with salt.

3. Make the mash In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the peas just until tender, 2 to 3 minutes; drain well and pat dry. Using a fork, mash the peas until chunky. Stir in the olive oil, mint, Parmigiano, basil, shallot, lemon juice and garlic. Fold in the ricotta and season with salt and pepper.

4. Cook the scallops In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the scallops with salt and pepper, add 6 to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, turning once, until golden and just opaque throughout, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a large plate. Wipe out the skillet and repeat with the remaining olive oil and scallops.

5. Spoon the mash onto plates and arrange the scallops around it. Drizzle with the chive oil and serve with lemon wedges. —Emeril Lagasse

WINE Vibrant, medium-bodied Grüner Veltliner: 2013 Bründlmayer Berg Vogelsang.

Garlicky Clams with Confited Potatoes

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 40 min; Serves 4 to 6

At The Perennial in San Francisco, chef Chris Kiyuna confits potatoes by cooking them in a good amount of olive oil; Kiyuna reserves the oil for braising the clams and for shallow-frying other ingredients.

POTATOES

1 lb. fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise

4 garlic cloves

2 tsp. black peppercorns

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

CLAMS

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 medium shallots, minced

4 thyme sprigs plus ¹/₂ tsp. finely chopped thyme

1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper

2 lbs. littleneck clams, scrubbed and rinsed

1 cup dry white wine

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar

1 Tbsp. chopped walnuts

1 Tbsp. minced chervil

8 radishes with greens, radishes halved and greens torn

¹/₄ cup snipped dill

1. Confit the potatoes In a 10-inch skillet, combine all of the ingredients and bring just to a simmer. Cook over moderately low heat until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes. Let cool. Drain the potatoes, discarding the garlic and peppercorns; reserve the oil.

2. Prepare the clams In a large saucepan, heat ¹/₃ cup of the reserved potato oil. Add the garlic and half the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 minutes. Add the thyme sprigs and crushed pepper and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the clams, wine and a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Cover and cook over high heat, shaking the pan, until the clams open, 5 minutes. Remove the clams and discard the shells. Discard any unopened clams. Finely chop ¹/₃ cup of the clams. Strain the broth; reserve for another use.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk the vinegar with the chopped clams, walnuts, chervil and thyme and the remaining shallot; let stand for 15 minutes. Season the dressing with salt.

4. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the reserved potato oil until shimmering. Add the potatoes cut side down and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter. Add the radishes to the skillet cut side down and cook until browned on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter, fold in the radish greens and season with salt.

5. Add the dressing and the whole clams to the skillet and warm over moderately low heat, about 3 minutes. Spoon over the potatoes and radishes, top with the dill and serve. —Chris Kiyuna

WINE Lightly fruity sparkling rosé: NV Joseph Cattin Crémant d’Alsace Brut.

Cockles with Beans and Cherry Tomatoes in Garlic Broth

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4

Cockles are among the smallest bivalves, but they deliver loads of flavor. F&W’s Kay Chun combines them with just a few simple ingredients for a rich, hearty stew. If you can’t find cockles, use scrubbed and debearded mussels or littleneck clams.

1 cup dried cranberry or borlotti beans (6 oz.)

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

7 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

2 shallots, finely chopped

¹/₂ lb. yellow cherry tomatoes, halved

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₂ cup dry white wine

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

3 lbs. cockles, rinsed

¹/₂ cup coarsely chopped parsley

¹/₂ cup coarsely chopped tarragon

Grilled bread, for serving

1. In a large saucepan, cover the beans with 3 inches of water and bring to a boil. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the beans are tender, about 45 minutes. Drain.

2. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant and golden, about 3 minutes. Add the beans and tomatoes and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Add the broth and cockles and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat until the cockles open, about 3 minutes. Discard any unopened cockles. Stir in the parsley and tarragon and serve with grilled bread. —Kay Chun

MAKE AHEAD The cooked beans can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

WINE Fresh and minerally Languedoc white: 2014 Julie Benau Picpoul de Pinet.

MUSSELS WITH CARAMELIZED FENNEL AND LEEKS

Mussels with Caramelized Fennel and Leeks

Total 1 hr; Serves 6 to 8

A simple mussel broth, caramelized vegetables and crème fraîche pump up the flavor of these steamed mussels from Shane McBride and Daniel Parilla of Cherche Midi in New York City.

MUSSEL BROTH

¹/₂ lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1 shallot, thinly sliced

4 tarragon sprigs

2 cups dry white wine

¹/₄ cup Pernod

CARAMELIZED FENNEL AND LEEKS

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into ¹/₂-inch dice

2 leeks, light green and white parts only, sliced ¹/₂ inch thick

MUSSELS

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 shallots, thinly sliced

5 lbs. mussels, scrubbed and debearded

¹/₄ cup Pernod

³/₄ cup crème fraîche

Kosher salt

Small tarragon leaves, for garnish

Toasted or grilled baguettes, for serving

1. Make the mussel broth Combine all of the ingredients in a saucepan. Cover, bring to a simmer and cook until the mussels open, about 3 minutes. Strain the broth and reserve the mussels. Discard any unopened mussels.

2. Make the caramelized fennel and leeks In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the fennel and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden, about 15 minutes. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and the fennel is lightly caramelized, about 8 minutes more. Remove from the heat.

3. Prepare the mussels In a pot, melt the butter. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat until softened, 2 minutes. Add the mussels and Pernod and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the mussel broth and the fennel mixture. Cover and cook until the mussels open, about 5 minutes; using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a large bowl as they open. Discard any that don’t open.

4. Bring the broth to a simmer. Whisk in the crème fraîche and season with salt. Add all of the mussels and cook until hot. Transfer the mussels and broth to bowls, garnish with tarragon and serve with toasted or grilled baguettes. —Shane McBride and Daniel Parilla

MAKE AHEAD The caramelized fennel mixture can be refrigerated for 2 days.

WINE Full-bodied Loire Valley Chenin Blanc: 2013 Champalou Vouvray.

Butterflied Shrimp with Pistachios and Orange-Saffron Vinaigrette

Active 30 min; Total 50 min Serves 4 as a first course

VINAIGRETTE

1 cup fresh orange juice

1 Tbsp. minced shallot

¹/₄ tsp. saffron threads

2 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

SHRIMP

¹/₄ cup unsalted pistachios

8 head-on shrimp (1 lb.), butterflied through the shells

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 large scallions, cut into 2-inch pieces (2 cups)

Pistachio oil, for drizzling

1. Make the vinaigrette In a small saucepan, combine the orange juice, shallot and saffron. Bring to a simmer and cook over moderate heat until reduced to ¹/₄ cup, about 25 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool completely. Whisk in the vinegar and oil and season with salt.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the shrimp Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread 2 tablespoons of the pistachios in a pie plate and toast for 5 minutes, or until golden; coarsely chop. In a spice grinder, finely grind the remaining 2 tablespoons of pistachios. Season the flesh side of the shrimp with salt and pepper and coat with the finely ground pistachios.

3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the scallions and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until lightly charred and just tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

4. Wipe out the skillet and heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil in it. Add the shrimp, flesh side down, and cook over moderate heat, turning once, until just white throughout, about 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to plates. Spoon some of the vinaigrette over the shrimp and top with the scallions, a drizzle of pistachio oil and the chopped pistachios. Serve the remaining vinaigrette on the side. —Ori Menashe

WINE Fruit-forward, floral Piedmontese white: 2013 Brovia Roero Arneis.

SPICY COCONUT SHRIMP

Spicy Coconut Shrimp

Total 40 min; Serves 4

¹/₃ cup all-purpose flour

1 tsp. cayenne

Kosher salt

¹/₂ cup panko

¹/₃ cup unsweetened shredded coconut

¹/₃ cup unsweetened coconut milk

1 lb. large shrimp, shelled and deveined

Canola oil, for frying

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a shallow dish, whisk the flour with the cayenne and ¹/₂ teaspoon of salt. In a second shallow dish, mix the panko with the shredded coconut. Pour the coconut milk into a small bowl.

2. Season the shrimp with salt. Working with 1 shrimp at a time, dredge it in the flour mixture, then dip it in the coconut milk, letting the excess drip off. Coat the shrimp in the panko mixture. Transfer to a plate. Repeat to coat the remaining shrimp.

3. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat ¹/₄ inch of oil until shimmering. In 2 batches, fry the shrimp over moderate heat, turning, until golden and crisp and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels and serve hot with lemon wedges. —Sasha Martin

WINE Zippy, lightly sparkling Vinho Verde: NV Broadbent.

JALAPEÑO-PICKLED SHRIMP AND VEGETABLES

Jalapeño-Pickled Shrimp and Vegetables

Total 30 min plus 4 hr pickling Makes 1 pound

PICKLE

3 cups water

1 cup red wine vinegar

¹/₂ cup diced carrot

¹/₂ cup diced trimmed shiitake mushrooms

¹/₂ cup diced turnip

1 jalapeño, thinly sliced crosswise

2 Tbsp. sugar

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. dried oregano

1 tsp. ground fennel

1 tsp. crushed red pepper

1 tsp. black pepper

SHRIMP

8 cups water

1 lemon, halved

5 bay leaves

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. cayenne

1 lb. shell-on large shrimp

1. Make the pickle In a medium saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and bring just to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Transfer the pickling mixture to a large bowl and let cool completely.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the shrimp Wipe out the saucepan. Add all of the ingredients except the shrimp and bring to a boil for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and cook over moderately high heat until just white throughout, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain and transfer the shrimp to an ice bath to cool. Add the shrimp to the pickle, cover and refrigerate for 4 to 5 hours. Drain and peel the shrimp and serve with the pickled vegetables. —Donald Link

SERVE WITH Jalapeño-spiked mayonnaise.

MAKE AHEAD The drained pickled shrimp can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

WINE Tangy, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc: 2013 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre.

Pickled Shrimp

Total 40 min plus 12 hr marinating Makes 1 pound; Serves 6

These tangy, make-ahead shrimp are from F&W’s People’s Best New Chef 2015, Cory Bahr, of Cotton in Monroe, Louisiana. At the restaurant, Bahr serves the pickled shrimp with microgreens over a simple tomato-corn salad. “Many Southern cooks use Wishbone Italian dressing,” he says, “but we ‘church it up’ with good oil and vinegar.”

¹/₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 lb. large shrimp, shelled and deveined

2 cups extra-virgin olive oil

6 lemons, halved and juiced (1 cup), lemons reserved

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 medium Vidalia onion, halved and thinly sliced

18 bay leaves

¹/₂ cup flat-leaf parsley

3 oz. crab boil seasoning

1. In a medium saucepan, boil 8 cups of water with ¹/₄ cup of the salt. Add the shrimp and boil until cooked, 2 minutes. Drain and chill in an ice bath; drain again.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the olive oil with the lemon juice and the remaining 2 tablespoons of salt. In two 1-quart glass jars, layer the shrimp, garlic, onion, bay leaves, parsley and 6 of the lemon halves. Add the crab boil seasoning and the lemon dressing and cover. Marinate the shrimp in the fridge for 12 to 24 hours before serving. —Cory Bahr

Masala Prawns

Total 1 hr; Makes 24 shrimp

¹/₃ cup fresh lime juice

2 small shallots, minced

3 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger

2 Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for brushing

1 Tbsp. chaat masala (see Note)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1¹/₂ tsp. ground fenugreek

1¹/₂ tsp. dried mango powder (see Note)

1¹/₂ tsp. fine sea salt

³/₄ tsp. ground coriander

³/₄ tsp. crushed red pepper

24 large shrimp, shelled and deveined

Lime wedges and cilantro leaves, for serving

1. In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the shrimp, lime wedges and cilantro. Add the shrimp and toss well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

2. Heat a grill pan and brush with canola oil. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and scrape off some of the excess. Grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until just cooked through, 4 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a platter and serve with lime wedges and cilantro. —Akasha Richmond

NOTE Chaat masala is an Indian spice blend made with black sea salt. Dried mango powder (amchoor) is a citrusy seasoning made from unripe green mangoes. Look for these products at Indian markets and on amazon.com.

WINE Rich, tropical-fruit-inflected Riesling: 2013 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Bürklin Estate.

Garlic Shrimp

Total 15 min; Serves 4

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 lb. large shrimp, shelled and deveined

Kosher salt

1 whole dried chile, such as árbol or guindilla

1 tsp. brandy

1 Tbsp. chopped parsley

In a large nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, 2 minutes. Season the shrimp with salt. Add the shrimp and chile to the skillet and cook until the shrimp are golden on one side, about 2 minutes. Flip the shrimp and add the brandy; cook until the shrimp are white throughout, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Stir in the parsley, transfer to a platter and serve. —José Andrés

WINE Crisp, strawberry-scented Spanish rosé: 2014 Ostatu Rosado.

Hot Pepper Shrimp

Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

If you can get head-on shrimp, use them. The shells keep the shrimp tender and trap all the spices and seasonings, so the flavors permeate the shrimp.

¹/₄ cup vegetable oil

¹/₂ cup finely chopped onion

4 garlic cloves, minced

8 scallions, 2 minced and 6 cut into 1-inch lengths

One 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and minced

6 Tbsp. thyme leaves

2 Tbsp. sweet paprika

2 tsp. ground allspice

¹/₂ Scotch bonnet or habanero chile, stemmed and minced

Kosher salt and pepper

20 extra-large shell-on shrimp, deveined (see Note)

2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar

1. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion, garlic, minced scallions, ginger, thyme, paprika, allspice and chile. Season with salt and pepper and cook over high heat until the aromatics are softened and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Scrape into a bowl.

2. In the same skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the shrimp, season with salt and pepper and cook over high heat, turning once, until curled, about 4 minutes. Return the cooked aromatics to the skillet and add the remaining scallions and the vinegar. Cook, tossing, until the shrimp are evenly coated and the scallions are softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer the shrimp to a platter and serve. —Adam Schop

NOTE To devein shell-on shrimp, slit them down the back with kitchen shears and remove the intestinal vein, then rinse well.

WINE Citrusy, spritzy Spanish white: 2014 Ulacia Txakoli.

Tequila-Chipotle Shrimp

Total 15 min; Serves 4

2 Tbsp. canola oil

¹/₂ cup finely chopped red onion

1 chipotle chile in adobo sauce, minced

One 15-oz. can diced tomatoes

Kosher salt and pepper

1 lb. shelled and deveined large shrimp

¹/₄ cup finely diced fresh pineapple

1 Tbsp. tequila

Chopped cilantro, for garnish

In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the onion and chipotle and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until just starting to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper, then nestle the shrimp in the sauce and cook, turning once, until just white throughout, about 5 minutes. Stir in the pineapple and tequila, garnish with cilantro and serve right away. —Deborah Schneider

WINE Fruit-forward, full-bodied California Chardonnay: 2013 Talbott Logan.

Grilled Shrimp with Shrimp Butter

Total 30 min; Serves 6

The secret to this amazingly simple and delicious grilled shrimp recipe from Chicago chef Stephanie Izard is the onion-and-shrimp-paste butter that’s spooned on just before serving.

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter

¹/₂ cup finely chopped red onion

1¹/₂ tsp. crushed red pepper

1 tsp. Malaysian shrimp paste (belacan; see Note)

1¹/₂ tsp. fresh lime juice

Kosher salt and black pepper

24 large shrimp, shelled and deveined

6 long wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes

Torn mint leaves and assorted sprouts, for garnish

1. In a small skillet, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, 3 minutes. Whisk in the crushed red pepper and shrimp paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 2 minutes. Whisk in the lime juice and the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter and season with salt. Keep the shrimp butter warm.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Season the shrimp with salt and black pepper and thread onto the skewers (don’t pack them on too tightly). Grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred and just cooked through, about 4 minutes total. Transfer to a platter and spoon the shrimp butter on top. Garnish with mint leaves and sprouts and serve. —Stephanie Izard

NOTE Belacan is a pungent seasoning made by grinding small shrimp into a paste that is fermented, dried and pressed into cakes. It’s available at Southeast Asian markets or online from indomart.us.

MAKE AHEAD The shrimp butter can be refrigerated overnight. Warm gently over low heat before serving.

BEER Citrusy farmhouse ale: Prairie Artisan Ales Birra.

Shrimp Salad with Green Curry Dressing

Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

¹/₄ cup fresh lime juice

¹/₄ cup canola oil

2 Tbsp. green curry paste

1 lb. cooked large shrimp

8 oz. torn mixed lettuces (10 cups)

1 cup each of cilantro and mint leaves

1 cup thinly sliced carrot

¹/₂ cup thinly sliced red onion

Kosher salt

Chopped roasted peanuts, for garnish

In a large bowl, whisk the lime juice, oil and curry paste. Add the remaining ingredients and toss well. Season with salt and toss again. Garnish with chopped peanuts and serve. —Justin Chapple

Shrimp Cakes with Spicy Mayo

Total 30 min; Serves 4

¹/₂ cup mayonnaise

1 Tbsp. hot sauce

1 lb. shelled and deveined shrimp, chopped

³/₄ cup panko

2 large eggs

3 Tbsp. finely chopped scallions

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

³/₄ tsp. smoked paprika

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with the hot sauce.

2. In a large bowl, mix the chopped shrimp with the panko, eggs, scallions, lemon zest, smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon of salt and ¹/₂ teaspoon of pepper. Form the mixture into eight ³/₄-inch-thick cakes.

3. In a large skillet, heat the olive oil. In batches, add the cakes and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Transfer to plates and serve with the spicy mayonnaise and lemon wedges. —Justin Chapple

WINE Spritzy, citrusy Portuguese white: 2014 Vera Vinho Verde.

Barbecue Shrimp

Total 30 min; Serves 6

This quick and easy shrimp is flavored with plenty of Worcestershire sauce.

3 Tbsp. canola oil

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

¹/₄ cup dry white wine

¹/₂ tsp. chopped thyme

³/₄ cup Worcestershire sauce

¹/₂ cup low-sodium chicken broth

24 large shrimp, shelled and deveined

Kosher salt and pepper

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

Sliced scallions, for garnish

1. In a medium saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil. Add the shallot and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the white wine and thyme and cook until reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the Worcestershire sauce and chicken broth and cook until reduced to ¹/₂ cup, about 15 minutes.

2. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of canola oil. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. Cook over moderately high heat, turning once, for 2 minutes total. Stir in the sauce and cook, stirring, until thickened, about 2 minutes. Stir in the butter until incorporated and season with salt. Transfer the shrimp to a platter, garnish with scallions and serve. —Colby Garrelts

WINE Fruit-forward, citrusy Chenin Blanc: 2014 Ken Forrester Petit Chenin.

Pan-Fried Shrimp with Lemony Pea Pesto

Total 45 min; Serves 4

This pesto, made with fresh young peas, toasted pine nuts and lots of Parmesan, would also be a great dip for crudités.

3 Tbsp. pine nuts

¹/₂ lb. shelled fresh young peas (2 cups)

³/₄ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 garlic clove, crushed

¹/₂ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and pepper

12 jumbo shrimp (1 lb.), shelled and deveined

4 cups baby arugula (2 oz.)

1. In a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over low heat, stirring frequently, until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and let cool completely.

2. In a food processor, combine the toasted pine nuts, the peas, cheese, garlic, ¹/₄ cup of the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and puree until a coarse, thick pesto forms. Season the pea pesto with salt and pepper.

3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. Add half of the shrimp to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat for 3 minutes. Turn the shrimp over, reduce the heat to moderate and cook until golden outside and white throughout, 2 to 3 minutes longer. Repeat with another 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the remaining shrimp.

4. Toss the arugula with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 1 teaspoon of lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Spread the pea pesto on plates, top with the shrimp and arugula and serve. —Dominic Quirke

WINE Stony, peach-inflected Muscadet: 2012 Domaine de l’Ecu Orthogneiss.

Octopus with Chorizo and Potatoes

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 4

For the most tender octopus, dip it in boiling water three times before cooking it. This allows the proteins to break down slowly.

1 onion, coarsely chopped

3 bay leaves

1³/₄ lbs. octopus tentacles

³/₄ lb. potatoes, peeled and cut into ¹/₂-inch dice

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 tsp. chopped thyme

5 oz. cured Spanish chorizo, cut into ¹/₂-inch dice

Shredded shiso (optional)

1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil with the onion and bay leaves. Using tongs, carefully dip the octopus into the boiling water 3 times, then leave it in the water. Cook the octopus over moderately low heat until tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat and let the octopus stand in the water for 10 minutes; drain. Cut the octopus into ¹/₂-inch pieces.

2. In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes with water and add salt. Bring to a boil and simmer over moderate heat until just tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and transfer to a bowl. Toss the potatoes with the 3 tablespoons of olive oil and the thyme; season with salt and pepper.

3. In a grill pan, cook the chorizo over moderately high heat until warmed through, 2 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Add the potatoes and octopus to the pan and cook until hot and the potatoes are golden in spots, about 5 minutes. Add to the chorizo, season with salt and pepper and toss. Drizzle with oil, garnish with shiso, if using, and serve. —Alex Larrea

WINE Strawberry-scented Spanish rosé: 2014 Viña Zorzal.

GRILLED OCTOPUS WITH ANCHO CHILE SAUCE; JICAMA SALAD

Grilled Octopus with Ancho Chile Sauce

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 30 min; Serves 6

Star chef Tom Colicchio was inspired by the flavors of Mexico while filming Season 12 of Top Chef. He incorporated many of those elements into menus at 1 Hotel in Miami Beach, including this smoky- sweet ancho chile glaze for grilled octopus.

OCTOPUS

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

One 3¹/₂- to 4-lb. cleaned octopus, head and tentacles separated

3 shallots, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. sweet pimentón de la Vera (smoked paprika)

2 cups dry sherry

SAUCE

3 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded

1 small dried chipotle chile, stemmed and seeded

³/₄ cup apple cider vinegar

3 Tbsp. honey

1 garlic clove

¹/₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. grapeseed or canola oil

Kosher salt

Canola oil, for brushing

Jicama Salad (recipe follows), for serving

1. Prepare the octopus Preheat the oven to 300°. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil. Add half of the octopus and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until lightly browned all over, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining octopus.

2. Add the shallots and garlic to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until lightly browned, 2 minutes. Add the pimentón and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Carefully add the sherry and bring to a boil. Return the octopus to the casserole, cover and braise in the oven until very tender, about 1¹/₂ hours. Let the octopus cool completely in the liquid.

3. Meanwhile, make the sauce In a medium saucepan, toast the chiles over moderate heat, turning, until fragrant and pliable, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar, honey and garlic and bring just to a simmer. Remove from the heat and let stand until the chiles are softened, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. With the machine on, gradually add the grapeseed oil until incorporated. Season the ancho chile sauce with salt.

4. Remove the octopus from the liquid. Using a paper towel, wipe the purple skin off the tentacles, leaving the suckers intact. Cut the head in half. Discard the braising liquid.

5. Light a grill or heat a grill pan and brush with canola oil. Grill the octopus over high heat, turning, until lightly charred all over, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a baking sheet and immediately brush with some of the ancho chile sauce. Serve with the jicama salad, passing the remaining sauce at the table. —Tom Colicchio

MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 4; refrigerate the octopus and ancho chile sauce separately for up to 3 days.

WINE Dry, fruit-forward Italian rosé: 2014 Bisson Portofino.

JICAMA SALAD

Total 30 min; Serves 6

To keep the jicama crisp in this dish, start with a very firm root and cut the julienne a bit on the thick side.

One 1¹/₂-lb. jicama, peeled and julienned

2 celery ribs, thinly sliced

1 Fresno chile, thinly sliced

¹/₃ cup fresh lime juice

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₂ cup torn basil leaves

Kosher salt

Combine all of the ingredients in a large bowl and let the jicama salad stand for 15 minutes. Serve. —TC

INGREDIENT TIP

The New School of Fish

Chefs are cooking with unpopular seafood as a way to support sustainability. In New York City, chef Michael Anthony works with community-supported fishery Dock to Dish to source native bycatch and lesser-known fish. L.A. chef Michael Cimarusti champions delicious oddball West Coast varieties at his market, Cape Seafood and Provisions. Here, some of the fish that inspire them.