Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)

DRINKS

DARK SPARKLERS

Dark Sparklers

Active 10 min; Total 30 min plus cooling Makes 16 drinks

“I wanted to focus on very simple, three- or four-ingredient cocktails,” says North Carolina chef Andrea Reusing about the drinks she serves at The Durham Hotel and its rooftop bar. Reusing uses peak-season black plums to give the syrup in this cocktail its striking hue. “I want a cashmere sweater in that color!” she says.

4 small black plums, quartered and pitted

¹/₂ cup sugar

2 tsp. black peppercorns

2 tsp. fresh lemon juice

¹/₂ tsp. kosher salt

Chilled sparkling wine, for serving

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the plums, sugar, peppercorns, lemon juice and salt with 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat until the plums are very soft and the syrup is deep purple, about 20 minutes.

2. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve set over a bowl, pressing on the solids. You should have 2 cups. Let the syrup cool completely, then refrigerate until chilled.

3. For each cocktail, pour 1 ounce of syrup into a chilled flute and top with sparkling wine. —Andrea Reusing

MAKE AHEAD The black plum syrup can be refrigerated for 2 weeks.

Road Soda

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

1¹/₂ oz. honjozo sake, such as Kikusui Funaguchi

1 oz. London dry gin

³/₄ oz. fresh lemon juice

³/₄ oz. simple syrup (see Note on p. 372)

Ice

1 lemon twist, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine the sake, gin, lemon juice and simple syrup. Fill the shaker with ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with the lemon twist. —Timothy Koenig

Pomelder Prosecco Punch

Total 20 min plus 2 hr cooling Makes 12 drinks

This sweet-tart punch gets a ton of flavor and a rosy tint from a syrup of pomegranate juice, fresh ginger and cardamom. St-Germain elderflower liqueur adds a fragrant sweetness.

2 cups pure pomegranate juice

One 3-inch piece of fresh ginger, thinly sliced

20 green cardamom pods, crushed

1 chilled 750-ml bottle extra-dry Prosecco

1 chilled 750-ml bottle sparkling pear juice

¹/₂ cup St-Germain elderflower liqueur

2 cups chilled club soda or sparkling water

Ice

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the pomegranate juice, ginger and cardamom and bring to a boil. Simmer briskly until reduced to 1¹/₄ cups, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Strain the syrup into a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

2. In a chilled pitcher or large punch bowl, combine the pomegranate syrup, Prosecco, sparkling pear juice, St-Germain and club soda and stir well. Serve the punch in chilled, ice-filled rocks glasses. —Sara Grimes

MAKE AHEAD The pomegranate syrup can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

Pineapple-Sake Sangria with Jalapeño

Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 40 min Makes 8 drinks

³/₄ cup sugar

1 jalapeño, thinly sliced crosswise

4¹/₂ cups pineapple juice

One 750-ml bottle dry filtered sake

Ice

Pineapple slices and mint sprigs, for garnish

1. In a small saucepan, bring ³/₄ cup of water to a boil with the sugar and jalapeño, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let cool completely, then strain the syrup; discard the jalapeño.

2. In a large pitcher, combine the jalapeño syrup, pineapple juice and sake and stir well. Refrigerate until well chilled, about 1 hour. Serve the sangria in chilled, ice-filled tumblers, garnished with pineapple and mint. —Helene Henderson

MAKE AHEAD The sangria can be refrigerated overnight.

Sparkling Yuzu Gimlets

Total 15 min; Makes 8 drinks

Top Chef Season 12 winner Mei Lin makes her Asian-style vodka gimlet in a pitcher for easy entertaining.

2 Tbsp. sugar

2 cups lightly packed mint leaves, plus small sprigs for garnish

1¹/₂ cups lightly packed basil leaves, plus small sprigs for garnish

1 cup thinly sliced English cucumber, plus 8 spears for garnish

¹/₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. yuzu juice

2 cups chilled vodka

2¹/₄ cups chilled sparkling water

Ice

In a small bowl, whisk the sugar with 2 tablespoons of hot water until dissolved. In a pitcher, muddle the mint and basil leaves with the sliced cucumber and the sugar syrup. Stir in the yuzu juice, vodka and sparkling water. Serve in chilled, ice-filled collins glasses garnished with small sprigs of mint and basil and a cucumber spear. —Mei Lin

Two Palms

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

Coconut water is the breakout beverage of the decade, but people were actually mixing it into cocktails back in the 1800s. Here, Nick Detrich of Cane & Table in New Orleans riffs on that tradition.

1 oz. London dry gin, such as Beefeater

¹/₂ oz. fresh lime juice

¹/₂ oz. simple syrup (see Note)

1 large egg white

Ice

1 oz. chilled coconut water

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine the gin, lime juice, simple syrup and egg white. Shake vigorously. Fill the shaker with ice and shake again. Strain into a chilled coupe. Stir the coconut water into the cocktail and garnish with the grated nutmeg. —Nick Detrich

NOTE To make simple syrup, simmer equal parts of water and sugar over moderate heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Let the syrup cool completely, then refrigerate for up to 1 month.

Negronis with Fresh Oregano

Total 10 min; Makes 8 drinks

To put his own spin on a classic Negroni, New York chef Zakary Pelaccio makes this extra-boozy version, doubling the usual amount of gin. He garnishes the cocktail with a sprig of oregano from his garden.

16 oz. Plymouth gin

8 oz. sweet vermouth

8 oz. Campari

Ice

8 oregano sprigs

In a large pitcher, combine the gin, vermouth and Campari and stir well; pour into 8 chilled, ice-filled rocks glasses. Garnish each drink with a sprig of oregano and serve. —Zakary Pelaccio

The Big Come-Up

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

This dry martini revamp from superstar Seattle chef Tom Douglas features Washington state ingredients, including bitters from Seattle’s fantastic Scrappy’s and Captive Spirits Big Gin, an assertive, high-proof gin.

2 oz. Captive Spirits Big Gin

1 oz. chilled Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling

2 dashes of Scrappy’s orange bitters

Ice

1 orange twist, for garnish

In a mixing glass, combine the gin, Riesling and bitters. Fill the glass with ice and stir well. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with the orange twist. —Tom Douglas

Long Island Iced Coffee

Total 10 min; Makes 1 drink

To go with his brunch dishes at Milktooth in Indianapolis, F&W Best New Chef 2015 Jonathan Brooks makes this strong and delicious coffee version of the classic Long Island iced tea.

1¹/₄ oz. Amaro Nardini

1 oz. St. George NOLA coffee liqueur

³/₄ oz. orgeat

¹/₂ oz. Fernet-Branca (bitter Italian digestif)

¹/₂ oz. vodka

¹/₂ oz. mezcal

¹/₄ oz. rye whiskey

2 dashes of mole bitters

Ice cubes, plus crushed ice for serving

¹/₂ oz. half-and-half

2 Luxardo cherries, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine the first 8 ingredients. Fill the shaker with ice and shake well. Strain into a tall glass filled with crushed ice. Top with the half-and-half, garnish with the cherries and serve. —Jonathan Brooks

Casa Santo Domingo

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

1 oz. aged dark rum

¹/₄ oz. Cointreau

6 dashes of Angostura bitters

6 dashes of Peychaud’s bitters

Ice

5 oz. chilled Champagne or Prosecco

1 orange twist, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine the rum with the Cointreau and bitters. Add ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled flute and top with the Champagne. Garnish with the orange twist. —Lynnette Marrero

The Holy Trinidad

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

This rum drink is refreshing but strong—the kind of cocktail you want to unwind with after a long day.

1¹/₂ oz. aged Trinidadian dark rum

¹/₂ oz. Cynar (bitter, artichoke-flavored aperitif)

¹/₂ oz. amontillado sherry

¹/₂ oz. Cocchi Americano

Dash of Angostura bitters

Dash of orange bitters

Ice

1 lemon twist and 1 orange twist, for garnish

In a mixing glass, combine the rum, Cynar, sherry, Cocchi Americano and both bitters. Fill the glass with ice and stir well. Strain into a chilled rocks glass. Pinch the citrus twists over the drink, add them to the glass and serve. —Diego Sanchez-Maitret

Mai Tai

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

Adding a splash of whiskey to this modern interpretation of the classic rum cocktail helps tone down the sweetness. A good-quality orgeat (almond syrup) makes a big difference; look for an artisanal version from Small Hand Foods.

Ice cubes, plus crushed ice for serving

1¹/₂ oz. dark rum

³/₄ oz. orgeat

³/₄ oz. fresh lime juice

³/₄ oz. dry curaçao

¹/₄ oz. whiskey

2 dashes of Angostura bitters

1 mint sprig, 1 strawberry and 1 orange twist, for garnish

Fill a cocktail shaker with ice cubes. Add all of the remaining ingredients except the crushed ice and garnishes and shake well. Strain into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with the mint sprig, strawberry and orange twist and serve. —Romée de Goriainoff

Autumn Fruit Old-Fashioned

Total 10 min; Makes 1 drink

The base of this drink is an infused bourbon that makes excellent use of fruit scraps like citrus peels and apple and pear cores.

¹/₂ tsp. sugar

5 dashes of Angostura bitters

Ice

2 oz. Autumn Fruit-Infused Bourbon (recipe follows)

1 orange twist, for garnish

In a chilled rocks glass, muddle the sugar with the bitters until a paste forms. Fill the glass with ice and stir in the infused bourbon and ¹/₂ ounce of water. Pinch the orange twist over the drink and add to the glass. —Kay Chun

AUTUMN FRUIT-INFUSED BOURBON

Active 10 min; Total 8 hr Makes about 750 ml

Peel from 1 grapefruit

Peels from 2 lemons

2 pear cores

2 apple cores

One 750-ml bottle bourbon

Combine all of the ingredients in a large jar. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 8 to 12 hours. Strain the infused bourbon through a cheesecloth-lined fine sieve. Refrigerate for up to 1 month. —KC

SUPERHEALTHY DRINK

Turmeric Elixir

Makes 4 cups

In a blender, combine 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk with 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh turmeric and 1 tsp. each of chopped fresh ginger, coconut oil and ground turmeric. Blend at medium speed for 2 minutes. Pour into a saucepan and add 1¹/₂ cups each of coconut water and almond milk, 8 green cardamom pods and a pinch of salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, then let steep off the heat for 10 minutes. Strain and reheat. Serve with raw honey if you like. —Amanda Michael

Spiced Buttery Rum

Total 20 min plus 24 hr freezing Makes about 750 ml

This luscious buttered rum from tiki revivalist Paul McGee of Lost Lake cocktail bar in Chicago uses a technique called fat-washing. Try the rum in any classic cocktail.

10 allspice berries, crushed

Eight 3-inch cinnamon sticks

1 stick unsalted butter

1 vanilla bean—split lengthwise, seeds scraped, pod reserved

One 750-ml bottle light rum

In a skillet, lightly toast the allspice berries and cinnamon sticks over moderately low heat for about 5 minutes. Add the butter and vanilla bean and seeds and stir until the butter melts. Pour the butter into a jar and add the rum. Cover and freeze for 24 hours. Skim off the butter. Strain the rum through cheesecloth. Keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. —Paul McGee

Mott and Mulberry

Total 5 min; Makes 1 drink

Leo Robitschek, the star mixologist behind Manhattan’s NoMad Bar, uses fresh apple cider and maple syrup in this perfect cold-weather cocktail.

1 oz. rye

1 oz. Luxardo Amaro Abano

³/₄ oz. apple cider

¹/₄ oz. pure maple syrup

¹/₄ oz. fresh lemon juice

Ice

5 thin apple slices skewered on a pick, for garnish

In a cocktail shaker, combine the rye, amaro, cider, maple syrup and lemon juice. Fill the shaker with ice and shake well. Using a fine sieve as well as a cocktail strainer (preferably a Hawthorne), strain the cocktail into a chilled coupe. Garnish with the apple slices. —Leo Robitschek

DIY NUT MILKS

They’re simple to make, astonishingly delicious and as good straight up as in dishes like a rich panna cotta. TERESA PIRO, founder of Can Can Cleanse in San Francisco, shares her recipes for homemade almond milk and mixed-nut milk that customers crave long after their cleanse is over.

Best-Ever Nut Milks

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 20 min plus overnight soaking; Makes 3 cups almond milk or 4 cups mixed-nut milk

Teresa Piro sweetens her nut milks naturally with dates or honey and uses vanilla and salt to bring out the nuts’ richness. Choose a variety below, then follow the same two steps, at right.

ALMOND MILK

1 cup raw almonds

5 cups filtered water, plus more for soaking

4 plump Medjool dates, pitted

¹/₄ tsp. cinnamon

2 pinches of sea salt

MIXED-NUT MILK

1 cup raw hazelnuts

¹/₂ cup raw almonds

¹/₂ cup raw Brazil nuts

1 vanilla bean

5 cups filtered water, plus more for soaking

2 Tbsp. honey

¹/₂ tsp. sea salt

SOAK THE NUTS

In a medium bowl, cover the nuts and vanilla bean (if applicable) with filtered water. Cover and let stand overnight at room temperature.

MAKE THE NUT MILK

Drain and rinse the nuts and vanilla bean (if applicable) and transfer to a blender. Add the 5 cups of water and all of the remaining ingredients to the blender and puree at high speed until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Line a fine sieve with cheesecloth and set it over a bowl. Pour in the nut milk and let drain for 30 minutes. Using a spatula, press on the solids to extract any remaining milk; discard the solids. Pour the nut milk into an airtight container and refrigerate until chilled, about 30 minutes. Stir or shake the milk before serving.

MAKE AHEAD The milk can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.

STEP-BY-STEP

COVER the nuts with filtered water and then let them soak overnight at room temperature.

DRAIN and rinse the nuts. Puree in a blender with more filtered water and the flavoring ingredients.

POUR the pureed mixture through a cheesecloth-lined sieve, then let it sit and drain for 30 minutes.

PRESS on the solids with a spatula to make sure you extract all the liquid.

Mixed-Nut-Milk Panna Cotta

Total 30 min plus 2 hr chilling Serves 6

In a bowl, sprinkle 2 tsp. unflavored gelatin over ¹/₂ cup Mixed-Nut Milk and let stand until softened, about 5 minutes. In a medium saucepan, combine 2¹/₂ cups Mixed-Nut Milk with ¹/₃ cup sugar, 2 Tbsp. honey, the seeds of ¹/₂vanilla bean and a pinch of salt. Bring just to a simmer over moderately high heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the gelatin mixture until dissolved. Lightly brush six ¹/₂-cup ramekins with vegetable oil and set them on a baking sheet. Carefully fill the ramekins with the panna cotta mixture and refrigerate until set, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days. Run a knife around each panna cotta and invert onto a plate. Top with crushed toasted hazelnuts and serve with ¹/₄ cup strawberry jam whisked with 1 Tbsp. water.

You can also make this jiggly panna cotta with almond milk for a more delicate and pure almond flavor.

Fennel Ridgecrests

Total 30 min; Makes 4 drinks

¹/₄ cup strained fresh grapefruit juice

¹/₄ cup superfine sugar

1 Tbsp. pear brandy

8 oz. fresh fennel juice, chilled

Ice

8 oz. chilled sparkling hard cider

Fennel fronds, for garnish

1. In a medium bowl, whisk the grapefruit juice with the sugar and brandy until the sugar is dissolved. Chill the grapefruit cordial for 15 minutes.

2. In a large measuring cup, stir the fennel juice with 2 ounces of the grapefruit cordial. Pour the drink into 4 tall ice-filled glasses and top with the cider. Garnish with fennel fronds and serve. —Chad Arnholt and Claire Sprouse

MAKE AHEAD The grapefruit cordial can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

ANJOU PUNCH

Anjou Punch

Total 40 min; Serves 12

Three 3-inch cinnamon sticks, broken into pieces, plus whole cinnamon sticks for garnish

¹/₂ cup sugar

Crushed ice

Orange and lemon wheels

12 oz. Cognac

12 oz. Belle de Brillet (pear liqueur)

9 oz. fresh lemon juice

6 oz. triple sec

12 oz. chilled Champagne

1. In a small saucepan, cover the broken cinnamon sticks with 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat until reduced by half. Stir in the sugar until dissolved. Let cool, then strain the cinnamon syrup through a fine sieve into a bowl; refrigerate until chilled.

2. Mound crushed ice in the middle of a large punch bowl. Using a long stirrer or spoon, slide orange and lemon wheels against the inside of the punch bowl, then push the crushed ice back to keep the fruit in place.

3. In a cocktail shaker, combine one-fourth each of the cinnamon syrup, Cognac, Belle de Brillet, lemon juice and triple sec; shake well. Add one-fourth of the Champagne and shake once, then add to the punch bowl. Repeat the shaking 3 more times with the remaining ingredients. Serve the punch in crushed-ice-filled glasses, garnished with cinnamon sticks and orange and lemon wheels. —Leo Robitschek

MEADOW MOCKTAILS

Meadow Mocktails

Total 20 min plus 2 hr steeping Makes 8 drinks

Make this refreshing lavender-and-grapefruit spritzer in large batches for easy entertaining. To turn it into a cocktail, swap gin or vodka for some of the sparkling water (see Note).

LAVENDER SYRUP

1 cup sugar

¹/₄ cup dried lavender flowers

MOCKTAILS

¹/₂ cup basil leaves

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

11 oz. fresh grapefruit juice

¹/₄ oz. Angostura bitters

40 oz. chilled sparkling water

Ice

Basil leaves, grapefruit slices and/or lavender flowers, for garnish

1. Make the lavender syrup In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and lavender flowers with 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 2 hours. Strain the syrup through a fine sieve.

2. Make the mocktails In a mini food processor, pulse the basil with the lemon juice until minced. Scrape into a large pitcher. Stir in 11 ounces of the lavender syrup (any remaining syrup can be refrigerated for 2 weeks) and the grapefruit juice, bitters and sparkling water. Strain into ice-filled glasses, garnish with basil and serve. —Johanna Corman

NOTE For a cocktail version of this drink, use 24 ounces of sparkling water plus 16 ounces of gin or vodka.

“You wouldn’t think a comedian would be so precise, but Aziz measures every drink exactly,” says L.A. chef Courtney McBroom about her boyfriend, Aziz Ansari. Their pool parties feature margaritas and bonbon root beer floats.

Elixir Bonbon Floats

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 45 min Makes 8 to 10 drinks

L.A. chef Courtney McBroom makes a fantastic version of homemade root beer for these playful floats served with ice cream bonbons.

ELIXIR

2 cups water

1³/₄ cups sugar

Three 2-inch pieces of orange peel

One 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, sliced

1 Tbsp. sassafras (see Note)

1 Tbsp. sarsaparilla (see Note)

¹/₂ cinnamon stick (1¹/₂ inches)

1 star anise

5 cloves

¹/₄ tsp. kosher salt

¹/₂ tsp. pure vanilla extract

2¹/₂ cups cold sparkling water

BONBONS

12 oz. bittersweet chocolate (70%), finely chopped

¹/₂ cup coconut oil

1 pint vanilla ice cream

1. Make the elixir In a saucepan, combine everything except the vanilla and sparkling water and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let cool for 1 hour. Strain through a fine sieve and stir in the vanilla, then refrigerate until well chilled, 1 hour.

2. Make the bonbons In a microwave-safe bowl, melt the chocolate with the coconut oil on high power in 30-second bursts until nearly melted. Stir until melted and smooth. Let cool completely.

3. Using a 1-tablespoon scoop, scoop 30 ice cream balls onto wax-paper-lined plates and freeze until firm, 20 minutes. Using 2 spoons, dip 1 ice cream ball at a time in the cooled chocolate mixture and return to the plate. Freeze the bonbons until very firm.

4. For each drink, pour ¹/₄ cup of the elixir into a chilled glass. Add 3 bonbons, top with ¹/₄ cup of sparkling water and serve. —Courtney McBroom

NOTE Sassafras and sarsaparilla are available at kalustyans.com.

BARTENDING LESSON

Three Classic Gin Cocktails

These gin classics are easy enough for the novice home bartender. Simply combine the liquids in a shaker, fill with ice, stir (shake the gimlet) and garnish.