Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)
SNACKS, CONDIMENTS & SAUCES
TROUT SKIN CRISPS
Trout Skin Crisps
Active 15 min; Total 3 hr 15 min Serves 4
These smoky crisps can be served like crackers with toppings or dips, or crumbled on eggs or salads.
Skins from 4 smoked trout fillets
Kosher salt and/or Old Bay seasoning
Preheat the oven to 200°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Scrape all the meat off the trout skins and pat dry with paper towels. Tear or cut the skins into large pieces. Arrange on the prepared sheet and bake until dry and crisp, about 3 hours. Season the crisps with salt and/or Old Bay and serve. —Kay Chun
WINE Brisk, citrusy Prosecco: NV Sommariva Brut.
Hurricane Popcorn
Total 10 min; Makes about 8 cups
1/4 cup canola oil
1/2 cup popcorn kernels
4 Tbsp. butter
2 Tbsp. furikake (see Note)
2 tsp. chili powder
1/4 cup crushed wasabi peas, for serving
1. In a large pot, combine the canola oil and popcorn kernels. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the corn starts to pop. Cook, shaking the pot, until the popping stops, about 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat.
2. Stir the butter, furikake and chili powder into the popcorn. Transfer to a large bowl, top with the wasabi peas and serve. —Bob Tam
NOTE Furikake, a seaweed-based seasoning from Japan, is available at Asian markets and many Whole Foods stores.
POTATO CHIPS WITH WHIPPED BEURRE BLANC
Potato Chips with Whipped Beurre Blanc
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Makes about 3 cups beurre blanc
2 cups dry white wine
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/2 cup sliced shallots
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 parsley sprigs
1 thyme sprig
3 whole black peppercorns
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt
11/2 cups crème fraîche
Chopped chives, minced shallot and finely grated lemon zest, for garnish
Salt-and-vinegar potato chips, for serving
Celery Salt (recipe follows), for serving
1. In a medium saucepan, combine the wine, vinegar, sliced shallots, garlic, parsley, thyme and peppercorns and bring to a boil. Cook over moderate heat until reduced to 1/2 cup, about 20 minutes. Strain into a bowl. Stir in the lemon juice, season with salt and refrigerate until chilled.
2. Add the crème fraîche to the wine reduction and beat until soft peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the dip to a serving bowl; garnish with chives, shallot and grated lemon zest. Serve with potato chips and celery salt for sprinkling. —Dave Beran
CELERY SALT
Total 5 min; Makes about 2 tablespoons
2 tsp. celery seeds
2 tsp. fennel seeds
1 tsp. piment d’Espelette
1 tsp. kosher salt
Pinch of freshly ground pepper
In a spice grinder, combine the celery seeds, fennel seeds and piment d’Espelette; pulse until a fine powder forms. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the salt and pepper. —DB
Salty, crunchy, tangy snacks—like popcorn and sesame pistachios, chile-toasted marcona almonds and spiced pickled beets—make up the new, updated relish plate.
Popcorn with Sesame-Glazed Pistachios
Active 15 min; Total 30 min Makes about 10 cups
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup popcorn kernels
Kosher salt
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds
2 tsp. soy sauce
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
2 cups shelled unsalted pistachios (8 oz.)
1. Preheat the oven to 350° and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large saucepan, combine the vegetable oil and popcorn, cover and cook over moderate heat until the corn starts to pop. Cook, shaking the pan, until the popping stops, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the popcorn to a large bowl and season lightly with salt.
2. Wipe out the saucepan. Add the olive oil, sugar, sesame seeds, soy sauce, garlic powder and 2 teaspoons of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Add the pistachios and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Scrape the pistachios onto the prepared baking sheet and bake for about 10 minutes, until bubbling. Scrape the pistachio mixture into the popcorn and toss well. Let cool before serving. —Martha Wiggins
MAKE AHEAD The mix can be made early in the day and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.
Chile-Toasted Marcona Almonds
Total 15 min plus cooling Makes 3 cups
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 tsp. crushed red pepper
3 cups roasted marcona almonds
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 Tbsp. minced chives
In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the garlic is softened, about 2 minutes. Add the almonds and cook, stirring occasionally, until coated and hot, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper. Let cool completely, stir in the chives and serve. —Martha Wiggins
MAKE AHEAD The almonds can be stored at room temperature overnight; stir in the chives before serving.
Parmigiano-Reggiano Puffs
Total 5 min
Justin Chapple, star of F&W’s Mad Genius Tips videos, makes a delectable snack with Parmesan rinds: He pops them in the microwave until they get puffy and crisp.
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rinds, cut into 1/2-inch dice
On a microwave-safe plate, microwave the cheese rinds at high power until puffed and sizzling, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer the cheese puffs to paper towels to drain. Serve hot. —Justin Chapple
Nori Granola
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr plus cooling Makes about 6 cups
Heidi Swanson, the author of Near & Far, makes her crunchy, savory snacking granola with oats, cashews, fennel seeds and plenty of salty nori.
1/4 cup runny honey
1/4 cup natural cane sugar
31/2 cups rolled oats
11/2 cups coarsely chopped raw cashews (6 oz.)
1/4 cup sesame seeds
2 Tbsp. fennel seeds
1 Tbsp. shichimi togarashi (see Note)
1/2 tsp. black pepper
Five 8-inch-square sheets of nori, torn and crumbled into 1-inch pieces
11/2 tsp. fine sea salt
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 300°. In a small saucepan, combine the honey, sugar and 2 tablespoons of water. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and bubbles appear at the edge, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly.
2. In a large bowl, toss the oats with the cashews, sesame seeds, fennel seeds, shichimi togarashi, black pepper and nori. Drizzle with the honey mixture and sprinkle with the salt. Stir to coat the oats. Stir in the olive oil.
3. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread the granola on the sheet in an even layer, getting as close to the edges as possible. Bake for about 35 minutes, stirring occasionally (especially at the edges), until the granola is golden brown. Transfer the pan to a rack and let cool completely before serving; the granola will crisp as it cools. —Heidi Swanson
NOTE Shichimi togarashi is a Japanese spice blend. It’s available at specialty grocers and from amazon.com.
MAKE AHEAD The granola can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Corn Dogs with Krab Relish
Total 1 hr; Makes 12
F&W Best New Chef 2015 Tim Maslow of Ribelle in Boston ingeniously incorporates fresh corn into the batter for his crispy corn dogs. He tops the dogs with a playful relish made of imitation crab, pickles and yellow mustard.
RELISH
1/2 lb. imitation crab, diced
1 medium shallot, minced
1 medium-size sour dill pickle, seeded and minced
1/4 cup chopped celery leaves
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/2 cup Kewpie mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. yellow mustard
1 tsp. togarashi
Kosher salt
CORN DOGS
3 ears of corn, shucked
Vegetable or canola oil, for frying
1/4 cup white rice flour, plus more for dredging
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup finely ground yellow cornmeal
1/2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. kosher salt
11/2 cups buttermilk
12 beef hot dogs
Twelve 8-inch wooden skewers
1. Make the relish In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients and season with salt. Mix well, cover and refrigerate.
2. Make the corn dogs On a work surface, cut the corn kernels off the cobs; using the sharp side of the knife, scrape the pulp off the cobs. You should have 11/2 cups of kernels and pulp. Transfer the kernels and pulp to a blender and pulse to form a coarse puree.
3. Scrape the puree into a large nonstick skillet and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until thickened and reduced to 1 cup, about 5 minutes. Let cool.
4. In a heavy pot, heat 2 inches of oil to 350°. In a large bowl, whisk the 1/4 cup of both flours with the cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Stir in the corn puree and buttermilk. Skewer each hot dog lengthwise, leaving about 2 inches of wood exposed to use as a handle. Dredge each hot dog in rice flour, then dip in the batter and twirl to coat, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Gradually lower each hot dog into the hot oil and fry until the batter is browned and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes (don’t fry more than 4 at once). Drain the corn dogs on a paper towel-lined baking sheet. Serve with the krab relish. —Tim Maslow
WINE Bold, cherry-rich Italian rosé: 2014 San Giovanni Il Chiaretto.
Blueberry Vinaigrette
Total 30 min; Makes 1/2 cup
A touch of adobo sauce in this blueberry vinaigrette adds a nice smoky flavor.
1/4 cup blueberries
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 tsp. adobo sauce from a can of chipotles in adobo
Kosher salt and pepper
1. In a small saucepan, mash the blueberries with the sugar and lemon juice and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Cook, stirring, until thickened, about 8 minutes. Let cool slightly.
2. Scrape the blueberry mixture into a medium bowl and whisk in the oil, vinegar and adobo sauce. Season with salt and pepper. —Ben Mims
SERVE WITH Baby spinach and radishes.
MAKE AHEAD The vinaigrette can be refrigerated overnight.
Kale-Buttermilk Dressing for Roasted Vegetables
Total 25 min; Makes about 1 cup
At San Francisco’s Bar Tartine, co-chef Cortney Burns has a cult following for her brilliant vegetable dishes. Instead of adding raw kale leaves to a salad, here she uses cooked kale in a creamy dressing for roasted vegetables.
1/2 bunch green kale (4 oz.), stemmed, leaves torn into large pieces
1 garlic clove, crushed
1/2 small serrano chile with seeds, chopped
1 oil-packed anchovy fillet, drained
1/4 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt
2 Tbsp. buttermilk
1/2 tsp. granulated onion powder
1/8 tsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp. chopped dill, chives or parsley
1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper
Roasted root vegetables (such as beets and sweet potatoes), for serving
1. In a medium saucepan, bring 1/4 inch of water to a boil. Add the kale, cover and cook over moderate heat until wilted, 3 minutes. Drain the kale and let cool slightly, then squeeze dry.
2. In a food processor, combine the kale, garlic, serrano, anchovy, yogurt, buttermilk, onion powder, cumin, dill and lemon juice and pulse to combine. With the machine on, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until a thick dressing forms. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the dressing to a small bowl and serve with roasted root vegetables. —Cortney Burns
MAKE AHEAD The dressing can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
LocoL Dipping Sauce
Active 20 min; Total 50 min plus chilling Makes 23/4 cups
Chefs Daniel Patterson and Roy Choi are taking on the fast-food chains with their LocoL restaurants in L.A. and San Francisco. They serve their awesome tomato-based spicy sauce with everything from french fries and onion rings to hamburgers and chicken.
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 fennel bulb—halved, cored and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
Two 28-oz. cans whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand and drained
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup gochujang (Korean chile paste)
In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the fennel, garlic and a pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 15 minutes. Add the tomatoes and vinegar and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a blender. Add the gochujang and puree until very smooth. Season with salt and let cool completely, then refrigerate until chilled. —Roy Choi and Daniel Patterson
Burnt-Pineapple Salsa
Total 20 min; Makes 3 cups
1 pineapple, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds
1/2 small red onion, minced
1 large jalapeño, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
Kosher salt and pepper
Tortilla chips, for serving
In a large cast-iron skillet, working in batches, lightly char the pineapple over moderately high heat, about 5 minutes per side. Let cool, then chop and transfer to a bowl. Add the onion, jalapeño, garlic, cilantro and lime juice. Season with salt and pepper and serve with tortilla chips. —Michael Babcock
Salsa Negra
Total 20 min; Makes 1 cup
At Taco María in Costa Mesa, California, F&W Best New Chef 2015 Carlos Salgado serves this smoky, spicy, rich salsa with grilled meats and cruciferous vegetables. He also uses it to spike rice and beans; you’ll want to put it on everything.
3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil
3/4 oz. chiles de árbol, stemmed
3/4 oz. guajillo chiles (about 3)—stemmed, seeded and cut into pieces
10 black garlic cloves, peeled and minced (see Note)
10 fresh garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 Tbsp. piloncillo (raw Mexican sugar) or packed light brown sugar
3/4 tsp. cumin seeds
Kosher salt
1. In a large saucepan, combine the oil and both chiles and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the chiles are fragrant and browned in spots, about 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in both garlics along with the vinegar, sugar, cumin and 1 teaspoon of salt. Cover and let cool.
2. Transfer the chile mixture to a blender and pulse until a coarse paste forms. Season with salt. —Carlos Salgado
SERVE WITH Grilled chicken legs or steak.
NOTE Black garlic is available at Trader Joe’s markets and from obisone.com.
MAKE AHEAD The salsa negra can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.
Smoky Pasilla-Tomatillo Sauce
Active 10 min; Total 35 min Makes 2 cups
This fruity, spicy sauce is made with pasilla de Oaxaca chiles, deeply smoky dried chiles that are hotter than chipotles. Serve the sauce with pan-seared or roast duck, lamb or pork.
2 large pasilla de Oaxaca chiles (1/2 oz.)—stemmed, seeded and wiped clean
2 large black pasilla chiles (1/2 oz.)—stemmed, seeded and wiped clean
1/2 lb. tomatillos—husked, rinsed and quartered
1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
3 large garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. packed dark brown sugar
11/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
Kosher salt
1. In a medium skillet, toast the chiles over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until pliable and blistered in spots, about 1 minute. Add the tomatillos, onion, garlic, brown sugar and chicken broth and bring to a boil. Cover partially and simmer over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft, about 20 minutes.
2. Transfer the mixture to a blender and let cool slightly, then puree until smooth. Strain the sauce through a fine sieve and season with salt. Serve warm. —Shelley Wiseman
MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.
Raw Oysters with Cava Mignonette
Total 5 min; Makes about 3/4 cup
1/2 cup chilled cava
1/4 cup minced shallot
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
Raw oysters on the half shell, for serving
In a small bowl, stir together all of the ingredients except the oysters. Serve the mignonette with the oysters. —Matt Jennings
GREEN MANGO WITH DIPPING SAUCE
Green Mango with Dipping Sauce
Total 35 min; Serves 4 to 6
James Syhabout, chef at Hawker Fare in Oakland, California, makes a simple dipping sauce of chiles, shallot and pungent fish sauce. It’s great with green mango— a combo known as mak muang som klub jaew wan in Lao—as well as ripe mango and pineapple.
2 Tbsp. raw sticky rice or jasmine rice
3 dried Thai bird chiles, stemmed, or 2 tsp. crushed dried Thai chiles
1/2 cup Asian fish sauce
1/4 cup sugar
2 Tbsp. chopped shallot
1 fresh red Thai chile or other hot red chile, minced
2 large green (unripe) mangoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices
Lime wedges, for serving
1. In a small skillet, toast the rice over moderate heat, shaking the pan frequently, until lightly browned and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then transfer to a spice grinder and coarsely grind. Sift to remove any big pieces; you should have 1 tablespoon.
2. Wipe out the skillet. Add the dried chiles and toast over moderate heat until browned in spots, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the spice grinder and grind to a coarse powder; some seeds will remain.
3. In a medium bowl, stir the fish sauce with the sugar until the sugar dissolves. Stir in the shallot, fresh chile and toasted rice powder. Add the dried chile powder, 1 teaspoon at a time, checking the heat as you go. Let the dipping sauce stand for 20 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and serve with the mangoes and lime wedges. —James Syhabout
Cauliflower-Heart Pickles
Total 15 min plus overnight pickling Makes 2 pints
2 cauliflower hearts (cores), cut into 11/2-inch pieces
3 celery ribs, sliced 1 inch thick on the diagonal
2 carrots, sliced 1 inch thick on the diagonal
2 cups white wine vinegar
1/4 cup kosher salt
1/4 cup sugar
3 garlic cloves, smashed
3 cardamom pods, crushed
1 jalapeño, halved
1 tsp. ground turmeric
Pack the cauliflower, celery and carrots into two 1-pint jars. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar with the salt, sugar and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the salt and sugar dissolve, about 1 minute. Stir in the garlic, cardamom, jalapeño and turmeric. Pour the brine over the vegetables. Let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight before serving. —Michael Solomonov
Charred Okra Relish
Total 20 min; Serves 6
1 poblano chile
1 lb. okra
Canola oil, for brushing
Kosher salt and pepper
11/2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce
1 Tbsp. minced shallot
1/2 Tbsp. malt vinegar
1. Light a grill. Grill the poblano, turning, until charred all over. Transfer to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap and let cool. Peel, stem and seed the poblano, then cut into 1/4-inch dice.
2. Brush the okra with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning, until lightly charred all over, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool, then cut off the stems and slice the okra crosswise into 1/4-inch rounds.
3. In a medium bowl, toss the okra with the poblano, fish sauce, shallot and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper and serve. —Stephanie Izard
Fresh Cabbage, Cucumber and Radish Kimchi
Active 30 min; Total 5 hr 45 min Makes 12 cups
In this simple, crunchy kimchi recipe, Top Chef Season 12 winner Mei Lin cuts the traditional fermentation process down to just five hours. Lin sometimes uses the kimchi to make a quick and healthy stew by simmering it in dashi with tofu.
1 large head of napa cabbage (3 lbs.)—halved lengthwise, cored and cut into 2-inch pieces
3 English cucumbers, sliced 1/3 inch thick
11/4 lbs. daikon, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
20 medium radishes, quartered
1/2 cup kosher salt
4 oz. fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 3/4 cup)
1/2 cup gochugaru (Korean red chile flakes; see Note)
1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
6 large garlic cloves, chopped (1/4 cup)
3 Tbsp. hot sesame oil
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
2 scallions, chopped
3/4 tsp. sugar
1. Put the cabbage, cucumbers, daikon and radishes in 4 separate bowls. Add 2 tablespoons of the kosher salt to each bowl and toss well to coat the vegetables. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in a blender, combine all of the remaining ingredients and puree until almost smooth.
3. Drain the vegetables thoroughly and gently squeeze out any excess water. In a large bowl, toss all of the vegetables with the ginger-gochugaru dressing. Cover the kimchi and refrigerate for at least 4 hours before serving. —Mei Lin
MAKE AHEAD The kimchi can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
NOTE Gochugaru is available at Asian markets and stores like Whole Foods and online from amazon.com.
Spicy Quick-Pickled Radishes
Total 15 min plus cooling; Makes 1 quart
Pickling with dill, garlic and chiles tones down the radishes’ harshness while making them nicely herbal and aromatic.
1 lb. radishes with fresh leafy greens, halved lengthwise
12 dill sprigs
11/2 cups distilled white vinegar
5 garlic cloves, crushed
5 chiles de árbol, halved
3 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. sugar
1. Pack the radishes and dill into a heatproof 1-quart jar.
2. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, garlic, chiles, salt, sugar and 1/2 cup of water and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the hot brine over the radishes and let cool to room temperature. Serve at room temperature or chilled. —Kay Chun
MAKE AHEAD The pickled radishes can be refrigerated in the brine for up to 3 days.
CONDIMENT TIP
Alice Waters’s Essentials
In her book My Pantry, the legendary chef teaches how to DIY the essentials for a global pantry.
ZA’ATAR Mix equal parts sumac, dried thyme and white sesame seeds. Measure the mixture and add an equal amount of sea salt.
HOT SAUCE Blend 1/2 cup Champagne vinegar, 2 Tbsp. piment d’Espelette and 11/2 tsp. sea salt at high speed for 30 seconds. Refrigerate for up to 3 months.
CHILE-LIME SALT Mix 1 Tbsp. each of kosher salt and ground chile. Stir in the finely grated zest of 1 lime.
Spiced Pickled Beets
Active 30 min; Total 2 hr plus overnight pickling; Makes 6 cups
3 lbs. medium beets
Kosher salt
11/2 cups apple cider vinegar
11/2 cups sugar
3 bay leaves
One 2-inch cinnamon stick
2 tsp. whole allspice berries
2 tsp. black peppercorns
3/4 tsp. whole cloves
1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Put the beets in a large baking dish. Add 1 cup of water and a generous pinch of salt. Cover tightly with foil and bake for about 1 hour, until the beets are tender. Uncover and let cool. Peel the beets and cut them into 3/4-inch wedges. Transfer to a large heatproof bowl.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine 11/2 cups of water with the vinegar, sugar, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, allspice, peppercorns, cloves and 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, then simmer over moderately low heat until reduced to 3 cups, about 12 minutes. Pour the liquid over the beets and let cool; refrigerate overnight. Drain the following day, before serving. —Martha Wiggins
Maraschino Blueberries
Active 20 min; Total 2 days; Makes 31/2 cups
1 tsp. kosher salt
2 cups warm water
2 cups blueberries
2 cups sugar
1 cup Chambord liqueur
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1. In a medium bowl, stir the salt into the water until dissolved. Stir in the blueberries and refrigerate overnight.
2. In a medium saucepan, bring the sugar, Chambord and lemon juice to a simmer over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar; remove from the heat. Drain and rinse the blueberries and add them to the saucepan. Transfer the blueberries and syrup to a jar and refrigerate for at least 24 hours before serving. —Ben Mims
SERVE WITH Ice cream or pancakes or in Manhattans and other cocktails.
Puddletown Pub Chutney
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 15 min plus cooling Makes 3 cups
This slow-simmered apple chutney is an homage to Oregon: Liz Cowan, who runs Portland’s Three Little Figs jam company, uses Oakshire Brewing’s Overcast Espresso Stout from Eugene, Oregon, and Walla Walla sweet onions. The result is a sweet-savory chutney that’s fabulous with sharp cheddar and charcuterie.
4 Granny Smith apples—peeled, cored and cut into 1/3-inch dice (5 cups)
2 cups finely chopped sweet onion
12 oz. espresso stout beer
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup brewed strong coffee, cooled
1/3 cup currants
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. unsulfured molasses
11/2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds
1 tsp. brown mustard seeds
1 tsp. fine sea salt, plus more for seasoning
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/4 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
11/2 Tbsp. Ball Low or No-Sugar Needed Pectin
1. In a large saucepan, combine all of the ingredients except the pectin and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the chutney is thickened and reduced to 3 cups, 45 to 50 minutes.
2. Bring the chutney back to a boil over high heat. Whisk in the pectin and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Discard the bay leaves. Season the chutney with salt and transfer to glass jars. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. —Liz Cowan
Turkey Bouillon Cubes
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 20 min plus freezing; Makes 12
These supercharged cubes of stock are great to keep on hand for adding flavor to pasta dishes, thinning out sauces and enriching grain pilafs. If you don’t have a turkey carcass, you can swap in two roast chicken carcasses.
2 Tbsp. canola oil
Carcass of a 12-lb. turkey, cut into large pieces
1 head of garlic, halved
1 onion, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
7 parsley stems plus 2 Tbsp. chopped parsley
Kosher salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. chopped chives
In a large pot, heat the oil. Add the turkey carcass and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until golden, 10 minutes. Add the garlic, onion, carrots, peppercorns and parsley stems and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add 2 quarts of water. Bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits. Simmer until reduced to 11/2 cups, 40 minutes. Strain into a heatproof bowl and let cool. Season with salt and pepper and add the chopped parsley and chives. Pour into an ice cube tray and freeze. Once frozen solid, transfer to a sturdy resealable plastic bag. —Kay Chun
Espresso Dry Rub
Total 5 min; Makes about 41/3 cups
Joe Carroll makes stellar barbecue at Brooklyn’s Fette Sau. This flavor-packed rub is the only one he uses—it’s that good.
11/2 cups packed dark brown sugar
1 cup kosher salt
1 cup ground espresso beans
1/4 cup freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup garlic powder
2 Tbsp. each of ground cinnamon, cumin and cayenne
In a container, mix all of the ingredients. Cover and shake well. Store in a cool place for up to 2 months. —Joe Carroll
MISO CARAMEL SAUCE
Miso Caramel Sauce
Total 15 min; Makes 3 cups
Miso gives this extraordinary 15-minute caramel a slightly salty, umami-rich flavor.
11/2 cups heavy cream
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
11/2 cups sugar
1/3 cup light corn syrup
1/2 cup white miso
1/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1. In a small saucepan, combine the cream and butter and bring just to a simmer over moderate heat.
2. In a medium saucepan, mix the sugar, corn syrup and 1/4 cup of water and cook over moderately high heat, without stirring, until the sugar is dissolved. Using a wet pastry brush, wash down any crystals from the side of the pan. Continue to cook, gently swirling the pan occasionally, until an amber caramel forms, about 5 minutes.
3. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cream mixture; it will bubble up. When the bubbles subside, very carefully pour the hot caramel into a heatproof blender. With the blender on medium speed, gradually add spoonfuls of the miso until incorporated. Transfer to a bowl and let cool, then whisk in the vanilla. —Jake Bickelhaupt
SERVE WITH Vanilla ice cream.
Chocolate Double-Nut Butter
Total 20 min; Makes 2 cups
2 cups walnuts, toasted
1 cup almonds, toasted
11/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips (about 10 oz.)
2 tsp. salt
Toasted white bread and honey, for serving
In a food processor, grind the nuts until they start to turn into a paste, about 30 seconds. Scrape down the side and add the chocolate and salt. Puree until very smooth, about 3 minutes. For a thicker texture, freeze the spread for about 10 minutes. Serve on toasted bread, drizzled with honey. —Zak Stern
Hot Fudge Sauce
Total 30 min; Makes 3 cups
5 oz. semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped
3 oz. unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. light corn syrup
3/4 cup sugar
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1. In a medium heatproof bowl, combine both of the chocolates with the butter. Set the bowl over a medium saucepan of simmering water and stir until the chocolate and butter are melted and blended. Remove the bowl and set aside. Pour off the water.
2. In the same saucepan, combine the corn syrup, sugar, salt and 2 cups of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate and whisk in the melted chocolate. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick and shiny, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Use immediately or let cool completely and refrigerate. Rewarm in a microwave before serving. —Annabelle Topacio and Ian Flores
Strawberry Sauce
Total 20 min plus chilling; Makes 3 cups
In this ultra-fresh sauce for ice cream, Annabelle Topacio and Ian Flores, pastry chefs at San Francisco’s Mr. and Mrs. Miscellaneous, cook the berries briefly with vanilla seeds.
2 lbs. strawberries, hulled and quartered
2 cups sugar
1/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
Combine all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Stir to coat the strawberries with sugar and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the berries begin to break down and the sauce is thickened, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely, then refrigerate. Serve cold or at room temperature. —Annabelle Topacio and Ian Flores
Wet Mixed Nuts
Total 30 min; Makes 3 cups
Golden syrup (treacle) and maple syrup give this elevated sundae garnish a complex sweetness.
1 cup walnuts
1/2 cup pecans
1/2 cup blanched hazelnuts
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
1/2 cup Lyle’s golden syrup
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 vanilla bean, seeds scraped
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the walnuts, pecans and hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 10 minutes, until toasted. Let cool, then coarsely chop.
2. In a medium saucepan, combine the three syrups with the sugar, vanilla seeds and 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to moderate and simmer until thickened, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the chopped nuts. Let cool completely, then transfer to a container and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. Serve at room temperature. —Annabelle Topacio and Ian Flores
Fresh Pineapple Sauce
Total 20 min plus chilling; Makes 3 cups
This pineapple ice cream topping has a smart tweak: Campari, which adds a pleasant hint of bitterness.
2 cups diced fresh pineapple
2 cups fresh pineapple juice
1 cup sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon plus 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
2 tsp. Campari
In a medium saucepan, combine all of the ingredients except the Campari and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the Campari and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thick and shiny, 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely, then refrigerate. Serve cold. —Annabelle Topacio and Ian Flores
Chocolate Shell
Total 15 min; Makes 2 cups
F&W’s Justin Chapple makes his own version of Magic Shell, a sauce that quickly hardens when poured over cold things. Coconut oil adds extra flavor.
1 lb. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1/2 cup coconut oil
Kosher salt
Ice cream, for serving
In a large microwave-safe bowl, melt the chopped chocolate with the coconut oil at high power in 20-second intervals, stirring between bursts. Stir in a generous pinch of salt and let stand at room temperature until cooled before pouring over ice cream. —Justin Chapple
Butterscotch Sauce
Total 15 min; Makes 3 cups
This easy, luscious butterscotch ice cream topping has just the right amount of salt and lemon juice to balance the sweetness.
3/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
6 Tbsp. Lyle’s golden syrup (treacle)
1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1 stick unsalted butter, diced
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. heavy cream, at room temperature
1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract
3/4 tsp. fresh lemon juice
In a medium saucepan, combine both sugars with the syrup and salt. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is molten and beginning to bubble at the edge, 6 minutes. Simmer, stirring, for 1 minute, then stir in the butter. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of the pan and cook until the sauce reaches 240°, about 2 minutes. Carefully stir in the cream until incorporated and bring to a rolling boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla, lemon juice and 11/2 tablespoons of water. Let cool completely, then transfer to a container and refrigerate. Serve warm or at room temperature. —Annabelle Topacio and Ian Flores
Honey-Nut-Oat Crumble Topping
Active 10 min; Total 35 min plus cooling Makes 4 cups
This healthy, oat-based crumble is terrific with fruit, yogurt or ice cream, but it’s also delicious for snacking.
11/4 cups old-fashioned rolled oats (not instant or quick-cooking)
3/4 cup whole-wheat flour
1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup sliced almonds
11/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup honey
1 Tbsp. pure vanilla extract
Roasted or poached fruit or yogurt, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 325°. In a large bowl, mix the oats with the flour, walnuts, almonds, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. In a small bowl, whisk the oil with the honey and vanilla; drizzle over the crumb topping and mix until well coated.
2. Spread the crumble on a baking sheet in an even layer. Bake in the center of the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the crumble is golden brown. Transfer to a rack and let cool completely to crisp up, about 1 hour.
3. Spoon the crumble over roasted or poached fruit or yogurt. —Joanne Chang
MAKE AHEAD The crumble can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
Sweet and Savory Cranberry Conserva
Total 30 min; Makes 3 cups
2 Tbsp. canola oil
1 large shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 tsp. ground fennel
1 lb. fresh cranberries
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard
2 tsp. Dijon mustard
Kosher salt and pepper
In a medium saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallot, garlic and fennel and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 3 minutes. Add 1/3 cup of water, the cranberries, sugar, vinegar and mustards and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries are coated in a thick sauce, about 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Scrape into a bowl and let cool; serve. —Justin Chapple
Molded Cranberry Sauce
Active 30 min; Total 4 hr; Serves 10 to 12
Star chef Tyler Florence makes his not-too-sweet molded cranberry sauce with chunks of pineapple.
2 lbs. fresh or frozen cranberries
3 cups sugar
2 cups finely chopped fresh pineapple (8 oz.)
1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and pepper
Shaved celery, snipped chives and chopped toasted walnuts, for garnish
1. Line a 11/2-quart glass bowl or mold with plastic wrap, allowing 4 inches of overhang all around.
2. Reserve 1/4 cup of the cranberries for garnish. In a large saucepan, combine the rest of the cranberries with the sugar, pineapple, orange zest, lemon juice and 1/2 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until the cranberries are broken down and the mixture is thick, 30 to 35 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.
3. Scrape the sauce into the prepared bowl and let cool for 30 minutes. Cover with the overhanging plastic. Refrigerate until the cranberry sauce is chilled and set, at least 3 hours or overnight.
4. Peel back the plastic and carefully invert the cranberry mold onto a plate; remove the plastic wrap. Garnish with the reserved cranberries, shaved celery, snipped chives and chopped walnuts and serve cold. —Tyler Florence
MAKE AHEAD The molded cranberry sauce can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Cranberry-Clementine Preserves
Total 45 min plus overnight macerating Makes 5 cups
Elizabeth Madden of Rare Bird Preserves in Chicago puts cranberries to great use in this versatile recipe: Serve the relish with turkey, stir it into a cocktail or whisk it into a vinaigrette.
3/4 lb. clementines, unpeeled, thinly sliced crosswise and seeds discarded
3/4 lb. fresh or frozen cranberries
3 cups sugar
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Fine salt
1/3 cup warm water
1/3 cup warm apple juice
1. In a food processor, pulse the clementines until coarsely chopped. Add the cranberries and pulse until the clementines are finely chopped and the cranberries are coarsely chopped. Transfer the fruit to a large nonreactive saucepan and stir in the sugar, lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Bring just to a boil, then simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Let cool completely, then cover the saucepan and refrigerate the fruit overnight.
2. Stir the water and apple juice into the fruit in the saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to moderately high and boil, stirring occasionally, until the preserves are thickened slightly, about 12 minutes. Test the preserves: Spoon 1 tablespoon onto a chilled plate and refrigerate until it cools to room temperature, about 3 minutes; the preserves are ready when thickened slightly and a spoon dragged through them leaves a clear trail. If the preserves are too loose, continue simmering and test every 5 minutes. Let the preserves cool completely, then transfer to glass jars and refrigerate until chilled. —Elizabeth Madden
Kiwi Jam
Total 40 min plus cooling; Makes 6 cups
California’s kiwi season runs from October to May, which is when the fruit becomes fair game for Dafna Kory of Inna Jam. She sources all of her produce from within a 150-mile radius of her kitchen in Emeryville, California.
21/2 lbs. kiwis, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (5 cups)
Kosher salt
2 cups sugar
1/3 cup plus 1/2 tsp. Ball Low or No-Sugar Needed Pectin
31/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1. In a medium saucepan, combine the kiwis, 1/2 cup of water and a pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the kiwis start to release their juice, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to moderately low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the fruit is nearly submerged in juice, about 15 minutes.
2. Bring the fruit to a rolling boil. Add the sugar and boil over high heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the pectin and boil over high heat for 1 minute. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice and skim off any foam. Transfer the jam to glass jars and let cool completely. —Dafna Kory
Grapefruit Marmalade with Smoked Salt
Total 35 min plus cooling; Makes 71/2 cups
“I call this my gateway marmalade,” says Laena McCarthy of Anarchy in a Jar, a small-batch preserves company in Brooklyn. “It’s less bitter because it’s made with the zest of the grapefruit without the pith.” McCarthy adds a mild smoked salt to the marmalade, such as Maldon, so as not to overpower the sweet and aromatic grapefruit.
3 cups sugar
2 tsp. mild smoked salt flakes
2 tsp. Pomona’s Universal Pectin (see Note)
1/2 cup finely grated grapefruit zest (from 6 medium grapefruits)
6 cups strained fresh grapefruit juice (from 12 medium grapefruits)
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. Pomona’s calcium water (see Note)
1. In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar with the smoked salt and pectin.
2. In a large saucepan, whisk the grapefruit zest with the grapefruit and lemon juices and the calcium water and bring to a boil. Gradually whisk in the sugar mixture and bring back to a boil over high heat, whisking, until the sugar dissolves, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and skim off any foam. Test the marmalade: Spoon 1 tablespoon onto a chilled plate and refrigerate until it cools to room temperature, about 3 minutes; the marmalade is ready when it is thickened slightly and a spoon dragged through it leaves a clear trail. If the marmalade is too loose, continue simmering and test every 5 minutes.
3. Pour the marmalade into glass jars and let cool completely. —Laena McCarthy
SERVE WITH Toast or crackers or stirred into a gin or bourbon cocktail.
NOTE Pomona’s Universal Pectin is activated with calcium. A packet of calcium powder is included in each box—simply combine 1/4 teaspoon of the powder with 1/4 cup water to make the calcium water. The calcium water can be refrigerated for several months.