Fried Chicken: Recipes for the Crispy, Crunchy, Comfort-Food Classic (2015)
CHAPTER 3
COMBINATION FRIED
INDONESIAN FRIED CHICKEN
CHICKEN COUNTRY CAPTAIN
ROASTED AND FRIED CHICKEN
LATIN FRIED CHICKEN WITH SMOKY KETCHUP
SMOKED AND FRIED CHICKEN
WEST AFRICAN FRIED CHICKEN WITH SAUTÉED ONIONS AND PEPPERS
FILIPINO ADOBO CHICKEN THIGHS
INDONESIAN FRIED CHICKEN
Ayam goreng kremes, the fried chicken of Indonesia and Southeast Asia, is a hugely popular street food. The clever cooking technique starts with poaching the chicken and then frying it. With no coating on the outside, the supercrunch comes from frying flour-thickened drops of the poaching liquid to make little crunchy pieces. They are piled on each piece of chicken to make little crispy mounds. SERVES 4
6 cloves garlic, peeled
4 candlenuts or Brazil nuts
1 shallot, peeled
1 (2-inch) piece fresh turmeric, peeled and sliced
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon whole coriander
1 tablespoon palm sugar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into 8 pieces
1 (2-inch) piece lemongrass, tough outer leaves removed and finely chopped
2¼ cups unsweetened coconut water
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Coconut oil, for frying
To make the marinade, grind the garlic, nuts, shallot, turmeric, ginger, coriander, palm sugar, and salt using a mortar and pestle. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl, add the chicken pieces, and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Transfer the chicken and marinade to a large Dutch oven. Add the lemongrass, coconut water, and enough water just to cover the chicken. Bring to a boil. Decrease the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, turning the chicken once. Remove the meat from the Dutch oven and set aside. Continue to simmer the liquid for 5 more minutes.
Transfer 2 cups of the cooking liquid to a medium bowl, add the rice flour and the all-purpose flour, whisk to combine, and set aside.
In a large wok, heat the coconut oil over medium-high heat to 360°F. It should be 2 inches deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working in batches, place the chicken into the hot oil and fry for 6 minutes, turning often. Drain the pieces on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken, making sure the oil reaches 360°F each time before adding more pieces.
After all of the chicken is fried, decrease the heat and allow the oil to cool to about 320°F. Gently pour ½ cup of the thickened cooking liquid into the oil and fry for 6 to 8 minutes, or until crispy and brown. It will bubble and splatter a lot. Using a spider or a wire strainer, transfer the crunchy pieces to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with remaining batter.
Serve the chicken topped with the crunchy pieces.
CHICKEN COUNTRY CAPTAIN
This recipe is from my dear friend Damon Lee Fowler, author and immensely talented authority on Southern food history. Country Captain is an extremely flavorful and comforting combination of saucy chicken, curry, and tomatoes served over rice. It’s been popular on the Atlantic coast since the nineteenth century. Where it originated remains debatable, but it’s most likely an English adaptation of Indian cookery that came to America via Britain’s East Indian spice and tea trade. Major Grey’s chutney is made with mangoes and is common in the condiment section of most grocery stores. If tomatoes aren’t in season, substitute 2 cups of the canned Italian variety, chopping them before using. Choose the curry amount that’s best for your taste. SERVES 4
⅓ cup unsalted butter
⅓ cup pure olive oil
1 chicken (about 2 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
1 large yellow onion, chopped
1 large green bell pepper, chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 to 3 teaspoons curry powder
1 Granny Smith apple, cored and diced
2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 teaspoon turbinado sugar
1 cup currants
¾ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
4 cups cooked rice
½ cup flaked unsweetened coconut, for serving
½ cup toasted peanuts or almonds, for serving
½ cup Major Grey’s or similar chutney, for serving
In a large heavy skillet with a lid, heat the butter and oil over medium-high heat until sizzling. Working with half of the chicken at a time, carefully place the pieces in the hot oil and fry for about 4 minutes per side, or until golden brown.
Carefully pour off the hot oil and butter, reserving about 3 tablespoons in the skillet. Add the onion and the green pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and the curry and cook for 1 minute, or until fragrant.
Add the apple and toss until it is coated with the curry. Add the tomatoes, sugar, and currants and bring to a boil. Return the chicken to the skillet and sprinkle with salt. Turn each piece so it is well coated with the sauce. Decrease the heat to low and cover. Simmer gently, turning the chicken occasionally, for 30 minutes, or until very tender.
Remove the pieces to a warm platter. If the sauce is thinner than you would like, raise the heat to medium-high and simmer until thickened. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the parsley, and pour the sauce over the chicken.
Serve with the rice, passing the coconut, peanuts, and chutney at the table.
ROASTED AND FRIED CHICKEN
Baking the bird before frying it allows for a shorter frying time and a simple guarantee that each piece will be evenly cooked through. Soaking in highly acidic sour cream and buttermilk makes each bite tangy under the crunch of the cornmeal crust. SERVES 4 TO 6
2 cups sour cream
2 cups buttermilk
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
1 tablespoon olive oil
1¼ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups Southern all-purpose flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
½ cup finely ground yellow cornmeal
Peanut oil, for frying
Stir together the sour cream and 1 cup of the buttermilk and pour into a large zip-top bag. Add the chicken, seal the bag, rub to coat the chicken, and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the chicken from the zip-top bag, rinse the pieces, and pat them dry with paper towels. Arrange the chicken on a rimmed baking sheet. Rub the meat with olive oil and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the chicken from the oven and cool for about 20 minutes.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, and the remaining ¾ teaspoon of salt and ¾ teaspoon of pepper.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 1 inch of peanut oil over medium heat to 360°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, dip the pieces into the remaining 1 cup of buttermilk and dredge in the flour mixture. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear, turning frequently. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
LATIN FRIED CHICKEN WITH SMOKY KETCHUP
My friend Sandra Gutierrez cleverly fries her spiced chicken and then finishes it off in a hot oven. The chicken is moist with not a hint of grease. She serves it with her Smoky Ketchup, adding a gutsy kick of heat you’ll want to serve on nearly everything. SERVES 6
SMOKY KETCHUP
1½ cups ketchup
1 large chipotle chile in adobo, chopped to a fine paste
1 teaspoon adobo sauce
2 teaspoons ancho chile powder
1½ cups buttermilk
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 large chipotle chile in adobo sauce, minced
1 teaspoon adobo sauce
1½ teaspoons garlic powder
2½ teaspoons salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (about 5 pounds), cut into 10 pieces
3 cups Southern self-rising flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
2 teaspoons paprika
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
Vegetable oil, for frying
To make the smoky ketchup, in a small bowl, whisk together the ketchup, chipotle, adobo sauce, and chile powder. Cover and chill until ready to use. The ketchup will keep, covered tightly, for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
In a bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, cilantro, chipotle, adobo sauce, ½ teaspoon of the garlic powder, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag and pour the buttermilk mixture over it. Seal the bag, rub to coat the meat, and refrigerate for 6 to 12 hours.
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets with a wire rack on each pan.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, paprika, coriander, cayenne pepper, chile powder, and the remaining 1½ teaspoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of garlic powder, and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture and lay on one of the prepared baking sheets, allowing it to set for 5 minutes.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3½ inches of vegetable oil over high heat to 360°F.
Working in batches, dredge the chicken in the flour mixture a second time. Carefully place the pieces in the hot oil and fry for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the crust is crispy and reddish brown.
Transfer the fried chicken to the other prepared rack and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear.
SMOKED AND FRIED CHICKEN
It’s unusual to enjoy a smoky, rich flavor inside a crispy, crunchy coating, but with this two-step recipe, you can savor both. The chicken is browned inside and out thanks to smoke penetrating all the way to the bone. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
2 cups plain whole milk yogurt
2½ cups hickory wood chips, soaked in water overnight, for smoking
3 cups Southern self-rising flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
1½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Peanut oil, for frying
3 cups buttermilk
Combine the chicken pieces and the yogurt in a large zip-top bag. Seal the bag, rub to coat the meat, and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Light natural charcoal in a smoker (such as a Big Green Egg). Bring the internal temperature of the smoker to 250°F. Maintain the temperature of the smoker for about 15 minutes. Drain the wood chips and place directly on the hot coals.
Remove the chicken from the zip-top bag, discarding the yogurt, but do not rinse the marinade off of the chicken. Place the pieces directly on the grate of the smoker and smoke for 30 minutes, maintaining a temperature of 250°F. Remove the chicken from the smoker (the meat will be brown).
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper.
In a 12-inch cast-iron skillet, heat 1 inch of peanut oil over medium heat to 360°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, dredge in the flour mixture, dip into the buttermilk, then dredge in the flour mixture again. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry for 10 to 12 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear, turning frequently. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F to 340°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
WEST AFRICAN FRIED CHICKEN WITH SAUTÉED ONIONS AND PEPPERS
Throughout much of West Africa, chicken is considered special-occasion fare. Serving the chicken with the traditional marinated onions and colorful peppers makes the dish as pretty as it is good. Bouillon cubes are a replacement for sumbala, a paste-like condiment common in West Africa. Look for the peppery and citrusy grains of paradise in international markets or specialty spice stores, or order it online. SERVES 4
1 tablespoon grains of paradise
1 or 2 Scotch bonnet peppers, finely chopped
1 small onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 beef bouillon cubes
1 tablespoon paprika
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoon vegetable oil, plus more for frying
1 chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 10 pieces
1 large onion, sliced
1 large red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ½-inch strips
To make the marinade, grind the grains of paradise in a mortar and pestle. Add the Scotch bonnet peppers (use 1 if you want less heat, 2 if you want more), onion, garlic, ginger, bouillon cubes, paprika, and salt, grinding to combine. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil.
Place the chicken in large zip-top bag and add about three-fourths of the marinade. Seal the bag and rub to coat the chicken. Place the sliced onion and red bell pepper in another large zip-top bag and add the remaining marinade. Seal the bag and rub to coat the vegetables. Refrigerate both bags for 2 hours. Transfer the chicken to a large Dutch oven. Discard the marinade. Add enough water to almost cover the pieces and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes, or until the meat is cooked through. Line a plate with paper towels. Transfer the chicken to the plate.
In a large clean Dutch oven, heat 1 inch of vegetable oil over medium-high heat to 375°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working in batches, pat the chicken dry and carefully place it in the hot oil. Fry for 10 to 12 minutes, turning often, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
In a heavy skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil until shimmering and very hot over medium-high heat. Add the marinated onion and red pepper and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, or until beginning to soften and brown. Discard any remaining marinade.
Serve the chicken with the sautéed onions and peppers.
FILIPINO ADOBO CHICKEN THIGHS
Adobo is a popular and ingenious Philippine cooking method begun by marinating the meat, simmering it in the marinade, and then frying it until crisp. Coconut vinegar gives this authentic flavor, but apple cider vinegar also works well. You’ll want to use a splatter screen and wear long sleeves for frying the coated thighs, which will erupt in a storm of popping and spewing when they hit the hot oil. If there’s any sauce leftover, don’t let it go to waste: use it as a dip for good bread. SERVES 4
1¼ cups coconut vinegar or apple cider vinegar
⅓ cup soy sauce
⅓ cup chicken broth
8 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
2 bay leaves
8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 4 pounds)
Coconut oil, for frying
Steamed rice, for serving
In a large Dutch oven, whisk together the vinegar, soy sauce, broth, garlic, pepper, sugar, and bay leaves. Add the chicken thighs and arrange so they are submerged in the mixture. Cover and refrigerate the pot for 4 hours.
Uncover the Dutch oven and bring the mixture to a boil. Decrease the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes.
Line a plate with paper towels. Transfer the thighs to the plate, reserving the liquid in the pot. Increase the heat to high and simmer until the liquid is reduced to 2 cups, about 15 minutes, using a gravy separator or spoon to skim excess fat from the liquid.
In a large heavy skillet, heat coconut oil over medium heat to 350°F. It should be ½ inch deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Pat the chicken skin dry with paper towels. Carefully place the thighs in the oil, skin side down. (It will spatter like crazy.) Cover the skillet with a splatter screen and fry for 3 minutes, or until the skin is golden brown and crispy. Turn and cook for 1 minute on the second side.
Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
Serve with the reduced sauce and steamed rice.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The adventure of frying several flocks of chickens has not been my journey alone. It really does take a village. My husband, Kevin; son, Camden; and daughter, Adair, ate fried chicken several times each week, sometimes several times each day, without one complaint. And they learned not to ask what was for dinner. The three of them make me happy to be alive each and every day.
My mom, Mandy Dopson, is always my saving grace, even when I’m not writing a cookbook. She did it all: running carpools, taking expert care of my children, folding clothes, and nearly everything else that chicken frying took me away from. She and my dad, William Dopson, became expert tasters and sounding boards for all things chicken.
Thank you to my sister, Natalie Schweers; my mother-in-law, Linda Lang; and my sister-in-law, Valery Hall, for cheering and encouraging me in the midst of the deepest grease.
My agent, Carole Bidnick, has been excited about this project from the moment it was mentioned. She was hands-on for every step and is an author’s guiding light. I can’t imagine working without her.
Thank you to the talented team at Ten Speed Press for your support and faith from the first phone call to the bookshelf. Emily Timberlake, my editor, was supportive and more than helpful. Ashley Lima, our designer; photographer John Lee; Lillian Kang, our food stylist; and prop stylist Ethel Brennan, all worked to create a beautiful book. Jean Blomquist copyedited and Erin Welke worked her magic with marketing.
Springer Mountain Farms provided all of the chickens for every aspect of this book, from meeting me on the road with fresh chickens to shipping chickens across the country. I am beyond thankful for their help and generosity. I am impressed with the way they raise and nurture their birds, and the taste is a testament to their dedication. Their vegetarian-fed chickens are 100 percent natural, given no hormones or antibiotics. They are a homegrown pride of Georgia. Kimberly Boring, Krista Beres, and everyone on the Springer Mountain Farms team at the Rountree Group were conscientious and thoughtful about keeping me in fresh chickens.
My dear friend Mark Kelly provided me with more Lodge cast-iron skillets than a girl could ever dream of. If Santa still came to see me, that’s what he would bring. LouAna Foods was incredibly generous with a huge delivery of more than 25 gallons of frying oil to my back door. It fries well, and I’ve never found a rancid drop. Thanks to Rhonda Barlow, I had the opportunity to fry in the most beautiful skillets Le Creuset has to offer. Mary Rodgers sent me a marvelous Waring Pro deep fryer to make for the easiest chicken frying. Mary Moore, my friend, mentor, and colleague, offered the support of The Cook’s Warehouse by loaning me a second Waring Pro deep fryer to further simplify my life.
My intern, Ivy Odom, was a huge help nearly every step along the way. Jennie Schacht waved her magic editing pencil over my first recipe deadline. Tamie Cook was my international fried chicken recipe researcher extraordinaire. Jeannette Dickey immersed herself in fried chicken to edit and proof my final manuscript. Dink NeSmith, a lifelong family friend, helped us set up one of the world’s finest outdoor frying stations, complete with plywood and sunscreen. Downing Barber, a friend and owner of Barberitos, so kindly recycled my ocean of spent oil at his restaurant nearest my house.
Nathalie Dupree has mentored me, shared recipes, loved me, and paved my path over many years. Virginia Willis is a friend who refreshes me and is the ideal sounding board. And I am fortunate to have a group of wonderful friends and gifted colleagues who keep my culinary boat afloat, offering guidance and friendship no matter what. Jean Anderson, Gena Berry, Anne Cain, Shirley Corriher, Damon Lee Fowler, Denise Vivaldo and Sandra Gutierrez are all on that list.
Elizabeth Lamb shared her talent with the most inspirational chicken watercolors. Many others provided valuable assistance for my research, supplies, taste testing, and sanity: Gay Crowe, Karen Fooks, Meghan Garrard, Melissa and Brandt Halbach, Catherine Hardman, Philip Juras, Suzanne Kilgore, Debbie Moose, Dick Parker, Suzanne Rutledge, Lynn Sawicki, Sheila and Pat Snead, and Brooke Stortz.
