Legumes/Vegetable Main Courses - BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)

BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)

CHAPTER 7

LEGUMES

VEGETABLE MAIN COURSES

Grilled Cauliflower Paillards with Orange-Olive Pistou

Grill-Roasted Pumpkin with Dry-Cured Olives and Garlic

SIDEBAR: Provençal-Style Stuffed Smoked Vegetables

Vegetable Paillards with French Feta Spread

Potager on a Platter Rustique

Grilled Eggplant with Gruyère and Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Smoked Garlic Aioli Platter of Roasted Root Vegetables

Toasted Barley Pilaf with Grilled Garden Vegetables

SIDEBAR: Grilling Savoir Faire

Grilled Onion Soup with Flame-Licked Croutons

Grilled Red Pepper and Tomato Soup with Goat Cheese Croutons

When cooked on the grill, vegetables can taste so good that it’s no sacrifice for even a meat-lover to enjoy them as a main course.

The recipes in this chapter make delicious vegetarian options for the plat principal but are also delicious as side dishes or first courses. There are vegetables to grill all year long, and, in this chapter, you'll find recipes to grill them perfectly.

When you cut a vegetable lengthwise into thin, long slices mimicking the more common chicken or pork paillards, you get a quickly grilled option that works for cauliflower, zucchini, yellow summer squash, and eggplant. Pair the vegetable paillards with a colorful, vegetable-based sauce, and they’re even more delicious.

Grill-roasting—grilling foods with an indirect fire and the grill lid closed—works well for root vegetables, so we serve them up here in a Smoked Garlic Aioli Platter of Roasted Root Vegetables (page 120). Once you try Grill-Roasted Pumpkin with Dry-Cured Olives and Garlic (page 114), it could become a fixture on your fall grilling menu.

GRILLED CAULIFLOWER PAILLARDS WITH ORANGE-OLIVE PISTOU

IN THE GARDENER AND THE GRILL, WE GRILLED CAULIFLOWER SLICES THEN TOPPED them with a tomatillo salsa, but when we saw Jason Neroni’s vegan dish served at Superba Snack Bar in Los Angeles, we said “ooh-la-la!” and adapted it here. One large cauliflower will yield about six (1-inch/2.5-cm) paillards, with two of the slices being the end pieces. Only cut part of the core, because if you remove too much, the paillard will fall apart.

SERVES 2 TO 3

Orange-Olive Pistou

¼ cup (50 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

2 oranges (14 ounces/435 g), peeled, segmented, and coarsely chopped

½ cup (90 g) green olives (such as Manzanilla or Picholine), pitted and coarsely chopped

¼ cup (40 g) golden raisins

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 large head (2½ pounds/1.25 kg) cauliflower, part of core and green leaves removed

Olive oil for brushing

Kosher or sea salt

Prepare an indirect medium-hot fire in your grill.

For the Orange-Olive Pistou, stir the olive oil, lemon juice, orange segments, olives, raisins, garlic, and parsley together in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.

Cut the cauliflower from top to bottom into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) slices and place on a baking sheet. Brush the cauliflower with olive oil and salt to taste. Place the cauliflower slices over the hot fire and grill for 2 minutes per side to get good grill marks, and then move to the indirect or no-heat side of the grill. Close the lid and grill-roast for another 10 minutes, until the cauliflower slices still hold together but are tender when pierced with a fork.

To serve, shingle or overlap the cauliflower slices on a platter and spoon the Orange-Olive Pistou down the center.

GRILL-ROASTED PUMPKIN WITH DRY-CURED OLIVES AND GARLIC

IN FRENCH MARKETS IN AUTUMN, YOU WILL SEE HUGE POTIRONS, SUCH AS THE ROUGE Vif d’Etampes, known as the Cinderella pumpkin because it looks like the carriage brought to life by her fairy godmother. There, they sell slices from a whole pumpkin that you can bring to life by roasting at home. Here, you can simply buy a small sugar or pie pumpkin, cut it into slices, and then grill-roast this simple yet satisfying dish that will completely change how you think about pumpkin.

SERVES 6

¼ cup (50 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

3 large garlic cloves, sliced

1 small pumpkin (about 1½ pounds/750 g) or 1 medium-size butternut or Hubbard squash, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 2-inch (5-cm) wedges (at the widest part)

20 black, dry-cured olives, pitted and halved

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried thyme

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a medium-hot fire in your grill.

In a saucepan over medium heat, warm the oil and garlic together until the garlic is fragrant, about 4 minutes.

Arrange the pumpkin slices, olives, and thyme in disposable aluminum pans. Drizzle with the olive oil mixture, and then season with salt and pepper.

Place on the grill, close the lid, and grill for 20 minutes. Open the lid and turn the pumpkin slices over. Close the lid and grill for 15 to 20 minutes more or until the pumpkin is fork-tender. Transfer the pumpkin wedges to a platter and drizzle with the juices from the pan. Sprinkle the olives over the pumpkin and serve warm.

PROVENÇAL-STYLE STUFFED SMOKED VEGETABLES

In the south of France, legumes farcis à la provençale, such as tomatoes, peppers, and zucchini, are so beloved that small varieties perfect for stuffing remain popular. Meat and breadcrumb stuffings are traditional, but we love the simplicity and deliciousness of goat cheese with a drizzle of olive oil and that kiss of smoke. Use this recipe as a blueprint for an easy meal with big flavor and lovely color.

Serves 6

Suggested wood: Almond, apple, cherry, oak, or pecan

6 medium Striped Cavern or Roma tomatoes, Ronde de Nice

or small round zucchini, or small bell peppers

6 ounces (175 g) goat cheese, or more

4 ounces (125 g) fresh greens

Fresh basil or mint

Olive oil and balsamic vinegar (fig flavored if possible) for drizzling

With a serrated knife, core the tomatoes, zucchini, or bell peppers and scrape out some of the interior seeds. Stuff each vegetable with 1 ounce (30 g) of soft goat cheese. Arrange the vegetables upright in a disposable aluminum pan and drizzle with olive oil. If necessary, lightly trim the bottom of a vegetable so it sits evenly in the pan.

Prepare an indirect fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood. When you see the first wisp of smoke, place the pan of stuffed vegetables on the indirect or no-heat side and close the lid. Smoke the vegetables for 45 minutes or until they are burnished on top and have a good, smoky aroma. Arrange the greens on a platter and place the stuffed vegetables on the greens. Garnish with sprigs of fresh herbs and then drizzle with more olive oil and a little balsamic vinegar.

VEGETABLE PAILLARDS WITH FRENCH FETA SPREAD

AS WITH THE GRILLED CAULIFLOWER PAILLARDS WITH ORANGE-OLIVE PISTOU (page 113), you can also turn other vegetables into paillards, or thin slices that cook quickly. As an appetizer with grilled bread, a side dish, or a main dish, this recipe has rock-star quality. The French feta cheese, made from sheep’s milk, is creamy, rich, and tangy. Choose squash and eggplants that will be about the same length and width when sliced. If you like, add a dipping sauce of Lemon-Tarragon Vinaigrette (page 26) or simply extra-virgin olive oil. Be sure to brush slices of good crusty bread with olive oil and grill along with the paillards.

SERVES 4

French Feta Spread

1 cup (8 ounces/227 g) crumbled French feta cheese (such as the Valbreso brand)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

½ cup (90 g) finely chopped Kalamata or Niçoise olives

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives or green onions

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

One Japanese eggplant, about 6 ounces (175 g), ends trimmed and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick (1 cm) strips

One zucchini, about 6 ounces (175 g), ends trimmed and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick (1 cm) strips

One yellow summer squash, about 6 ounces (175 g), ends trimmed and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick (1 cm) strips

Olive oil for brushing

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

For the French Feta Spread, combine the cheese, olive oil, garlic, olives, chives, and lemon zest in a bowl and stir until well blended. Set aside.

Brush the eggplant, zucchini, and yellow summer squash slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place on a baking sheet to take out to the grill.

Grill the eggplant slices for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, and the squash for 2 or 3 minutes on one side only, or until you have good grill marks and the vegetable slices are soft and charred. Transfer vegetables to the sheet and bring back inside.

While the slices are still warm from the grill, slather each eggplant slice with some of the feta spread, top with a yellow squash slice, slather more spread, then top with a zucchini slice to create a stack. If you like, arrange the paillard stacks on a platter or cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares. Serve warm or at room temperature, garnished with the parsley.

POTAGER ON A PLATTER RUSTIQUE

AJARDIN POTAGER IS A KITCHEN GARDEN. OFTEN, IT’S CLOSE TO THE KITCHEN door for snipping fresh herbs or harvesting tomatoes or leeks from nearby pots or a patch of ground. Since this is a platter of assorted vegetables, think about their sizes and seasonality as you pick or purchase them. Add herbs to the platter for an eye-appealing pop of green garnish. With a pot of parsley nearby, Persillade Drizzle is quick to fix. It’s a fragrant mixture of parsley and fresh garlic chopped together and used as a flavorful garnish for soups, stews, chicken casseroles, shellfish, fish, fresh sliced tomatoes, and other vegetables. We add lemon juice and olive oil to make it a drizzle. The vegetables we have listed in this recipe may all be used for the platter or you may pick and choose what is available. The vegetables require a minimum of halving or slicing, and we don’t even core the peppers, thus the rustique in the title.

SERVES 8

Persillade Drizzle

3 cups (75 g) loosely packed fresh parsley leaves

4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

4 pounds (2 kg) mixed seasonal garden vegetables (such as summer squash, romaine, fennel, bok choy, leeks, endive, bell peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, and onions)

Olive oil for brushing

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Persillade Drizzle, place the parsley and garlic in a food processor and process until finely minced. Then slowly add the lemon juice and olive oil. Set aside.

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

Slice the squash, romaine, fennel, bok choy, leeks, endive, and peppers in half lengthwise. Cut tomatoes, eggplant, and onions into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) slices. Brush the cut side of the halved vegetables with olive oil, except brush the peppers on their skin side. Brush the other sliced vegetables with oil on both sides. Season with salt and pepper.

Place the squash, romaine, fennel, bok choy, leeks, and endive cut-side down on the grill. Place the peppers skin-side down. Grill for about 4 or 5 minutes, until the cut sides and pepper skins have good grill marks.

Grill the tomatoes, eggplant, and onions for 3 to 4 minutes on one side, set the tomatoes aside, and turn the eggplant and onions on the other side and grill until charry on both sides.

Arrange the grilled vegetables on a large platter and spoon the Persillade Drizzle over all. Serve hot or at room temperature.

GRILLED EGGPLANT WITH GRUYÈRE AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

THIS DISH IS SIMILAR TO EGGPLANT PARMESAN, BUT WITH A FRENCH TWIST. FOR the best results, always oil the eggplant right before you grill it, since eggplant absorbs the oil so quickly. Sun-dried tomatoes are available in sealable bags or in jars with olive oil. We prefer the bagged variety, as they are supple and very flavorful.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 small eggplants (about 2 pounds/1 kg)

Kosher or sea salt

1 garlic clove, finely minced

½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons dried oregano, crumbled

¼ cup (30 g) chopped sun-dried tomatoes

½ cup (60 g) shredded Gruyère cheese

Fresh herbs, for garnish

Slice the ends off the eggplants, but do not peel. Cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick (1 cm) slices and lightly salt. Place in a colander and let drain for at least 30 minutes to remove excess water. Pat dry.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-hot fire in your grill.

In a bowl, combine the garlic, olive oil, and oregano. Brush on both sides of the eggplant slices when you are ready to grill.

Grill the eggplant for about 10 minutes, turning once, until tender with good grill marks.

Arrange the slices attractively on a platter and sprinkle with sun-dried tomatoes and shredded cheese while the eggplant is hot. Garnish with fresh herbs.

SMOKED GARLIC AIOLI PLATTER OF ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES

SOMETIMES THE SIMPLEST THINGS PACK THE MOST FLAVOR. TENDER ROOT VEGETABLES grilled with a kiss of smoke taste even more delectable when served with Smoked Garlic Aioli (page 29). Par-cooking the vegetables first helps them smoke-roast more quickly. If you like, place individual garlic cloves in the aluminum pans to smoke-roast with the vegetables, and then make the Smoked Garlic Aioli.

SERVES 6 TO 8

Suggested wood: A mix of oak and apple

4 pounds (2 kg) mixed root vegetables (such as sweet potatoes, white potatoes, carrots, turnips, onions)

Olive oil for brushing

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 recipe Smoked Garlic Aioli (page 29)

Prepare a medium-hot indirect fire with a kiss of smoke in your grill (page 15).

Scrub the potatoes, leaving the skin on, and cut into wedges. Rinse and peel the carrots, turnips, and onions. Leave the carrots whole and cut the turnips and onions into wedges. Microwave the vegetables, in batches, for 3 to 4 minutes on high or until partially cooked.

Brush the vegetables with olive oil. Place the vegetables in disposable aluminum pans.

When you see the first wisp of smoke, place the vegetables on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and smoke for about 1 hour, or until the vegetables are fork-tender.

Arrange the vegetables on a platter, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Serve with Smoked Garlic Aioli on the side.

VARIATION:

Winter squash (such as acorn or butternut), while not a root vegetable, would be a nice addition to this medley. Peel and cut into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) strips and prepare as above.

TOASTED BARLEY PILAF WITH GRILLED GARDEN VEGETABLES

WHOLE GRAINS LIKE BARLEY, PREPARED AS ENTRÉES OR ACCOMPANIMENTS, ARE the kind of dishes that people say, “I haven’t had barley in a long time and I love it. Why don’t we think to prepare it more often?” Well, there is no reason to forsake barley. It is a wonderful staple to have in your pantry. In this preparation, it is toasted first in a dry skillet to give it a nuttier flavor. Then you add liquid, and the barley simmers like a rice pilaf, but it never gets as soft and gummy as rice sometimes does. When you add the grill-roasted chopped vegetables, they look like precious gems. A finish of lemon zest brightens and keeps everything fresh, perfect for le pique-nique.

SERVES 6 TO 8

1½ cups (235 g) pearl barley

4 cups (1 L) chicken broth

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

4 carrots, about 12 ounces (335 g), peeled and chopped

1 yellow onion, about 6 ounces (175 g), peeled and chopped

1 red bell pepper, about 7 ounces (185 g), cored and chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 green onions, chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

To toast the barley, place it in a dry skillet over medium-high heat for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until most of the barley is a medium-golden brown. Transfer barley to a Dutch oven, add 4 cups of chicken broth, and bring to a boil. Add the bay leaves and salt. Cover and cook at a simmer for about 30 minutes until barley is tender. Add ½ cup (125 ml) or more of water if the broth is absorbed before the barley is done. Remove the bay leaves and set aside.

Prepare a hot indirect fire in your grill.

Place the chopped carrots, onion, and pepper in an aluminum pan. Drizzle with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Place the pan of vegetables on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and grill-roast for about 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender.

Add the vegetables, green onions, and lemon zest to the barley and stir to blend.

Serve warm, at room temperature, or chill in the refrigerator and serve cold.

VARIATIONS:

Chicken Barley Soup with Grilled Vegetables is so simple to make with any leftovers (les restes) of this recipe. Just add the amount of chopped grilled chicken and chicken stock to the barley mixture that you desire. The chopped grill-roasted vegetables are perfect in any vegetable soup, gazpacho, or even a cheesy broccoli soup.

GRILLING SAVOIR FAIRE

It’s always a good idea to grill more than you need for one meal. Grilled leftovers keep their color and flavor better than other cooked foods. You already know what to do with leftover grilled chicken, steak, pork, fish, or shellfish. But what about other foods?

Here are a few ideas.

✵Grilling bread? Grill more to use for appetizers or spreads a few days later or cube the toasty bread to use for croutons in salads or soups. Store the grilled bread in plastic storage bags at room temperature.

✵Preparing the Grilled Ratatouille (page 109)? Grill more and use it in the wonderful Grilled Red Pepper and Tomato Soup with Goat Cheese Croutons (page 125). Store it in the refrigerator.

✵Making the Stir-Grilled Shallots with Tarragon Butter (page 106)? Grill extra shallots to chop and add to Grilled Onion Soup with Flame-Licked Croutons (page 124). Store it in the refrigerator.

✵Finishing your meal with grilled fruit? Add any leftovers to your breakfast yogurt, and then drizzle lavender or wildflower honey over it all. Store it in the refrigerator.

GRILLED ONION SOUP WITH FLAME-LICKED CROUTONS

FRENCH ONION SOUP IS A CULT CLASSIC THAT IS RUMORED TO HAVE ORIGINATED AT the old Les Halles Market in Paris. In the traditional recipe, you caramelize onions on the stovetop, and then add beef broth to make soup. But guess what? You can also caramelize onions on the grill, where they take on an even more pronounced flavor. If you want to keep this recipe vegetarian, use a good quality vegetable broth in place of chicken or beef.

SERVES 6

2 large (2 pounds/1 kg) white onions

12 slices baguette

Olive oil for brushing

12 ounces (375 g) freshly grated Gruyère or Comté cheese

2 tablespoons butter

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup (500 ml) dry white wine

¼ cup (50 ml) dry sherry

8 cups (2 L) broth—chicken, beef, or a combination of both

Prepare an indirect hot fire in your grill.

Slice the onions ¾ inch (1.5 cm) thick and thread each slice onto a wooden skewer that has been soaked in water for 30 minutes. Brush the onion “lollipops” and the slices of bread with olive oil. Set on a baking sheet.

Grill the onions for about 5 to 7 minutes per side until charred and soft. Grill the bread for about 1 to 2 minutes per side until toasted with good grill marks. Top the bread with 2 tablespoons of the cheese and set on the indirect side of the grill for a couple of minutes or until the cheese melts. Set aside. When the onions are cool, remove them from the skewers and chop. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a stockpot and add the chopped grilled onions and salt. Sauté for a couple of minutes over low heat. Add the wine and sherry and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the broth and bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes.

Spoon the soup into six bowls and top with two cheesy croutons and sprinkle the remaining grated cheese among the bowls. Serve at once.

GRILLED RED PEPPER AND TOMATO SOUP WITH GOAT CHEESE CROUTONS

HOT OFF THE GRILL AND WHIRLED IN A BLENDER OR FOOD PROCESSOR, THIS EASY soup makes a traditional tomato soup and grilled cheese sandwich sound so, well, insipide. If you want to keep this vegetarian, use good-quality vegetable broth or stock in place of chicken.

SERVES 4

4 cups (1 L) good-quality chicken or vegetable broth

2 large red bell peppers (about 6 ounces/180 g)

8 large beefsteak tomatoes (about 4 pounds/2 kg)

2 large garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Goat Cheese Croutons

8 slices baguette

Olive oil for brushing

8 ounces (227 g) fresh goat cheese

¼ cup (50 ml) chopped fresh basil

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

Bring the chicken or vegetable broth to a simmer in a saucepan.

Cut each bell pepper in half lengthwise. Remove the stems and seeds. Core the tomatoes. In a small bowl, combine the garlic and olive oil and brush the vegetables. Reserve the remaining garlic olive oil.

Grill the peppers for about 4 to 5 minutes per side until charred and soft. Grill the tomatoes for 2 to 3 minutes per side, turning once, or until they have good grill marks and have slightly softened.

For the Goat Cheese Croutons, brush the bread with some of the reserved garlic olive oil and grill for about 2 minutes per side until toasted with good grill marks. Top the bread with 1 ounce (30 g) of the cheese and sprinkle with fresh basil.

Quickly skin and deseed the grilled tomatoes. Place the grilled peppers, skinned and deseeded tomatoes, and any remaining reserved garlic olive oil in a blender or food processor and purée. Add the simmering stock and carefully blend again. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon into bowls and serve topped with Goat Cheese Croutons.