BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)
CHAPTER 6
LES PLATS D’ACCOMPAGNEMENT
SIDE DISHES
Potato Gratin
SIDEBAR: The Cheeses of Normandy
Stir-Grilled Haricots Verts with Lemon Verbena Pistou
Barbecued White Beans with Bacon and Pear
SIDEBAR: Seeds of a French Garden
Grilled Onions with Thyme-Scented Cream
Stir-Grill-Roasted Baby Beets with Lemon-Herb Butter
Stir-Grilled Shallots with Tarragon Butter
Planked Goat Cheese-Topped Beefsteak Tomatoes
Provençal Grill-Roasted Tomatoes
Grilled Ratatouille
Main dishes or les plats principaux at a bistro are rounded out by generous helpings of hearty side dishes or les plats d’accompagnement. Some bistros serve these from a big bowl or gratin dish, while others plate them out for you.
The idea is to follow the seasons and use vegetables at their peak of freshness and flavor. In this chapter, we do the same.
In cold weather, the classic Potato Gratin (page 98) offers a silky-textured richness that pairs well with the slightly bitter flavor of foods that get a little char from the grill. Barbecued White Beans with Bacon and Pear (page 102) have a soupçon of enhanced flavor from the sweet pear and smoky bacon, vying with the traditional flageolet dish usually served with roast lamb.
In spring, Stir-Grill-Roasted Baby Beets with Lemon-Herb Butter (page 104), Grilled Onions with Thyme-Scented Cream (page 103), and Stir-Grilled Shallots with Tarragon Butter (page 106) offer more delicious options.
Then in summer and fall, Stir-Grilled Haricots Verts with Lemon Verbena Pistou (page 101), Grilled Ratatouille (page 109), and planked and roasted tomatoes come forward.
There is always a season for deliciousness.
POTATO GRATIN
NO BISTRO IS COMPLETE WITHOUT A GRATIN, A DISH OF POTATOES, LEEKS, fennel, or other vegetables that become soft and fragrant when baked. This one is adapted from our friend Ann Lund, author of the self-published Dining in Style. Soft rind cheeses melt lusciously into this dish, giving it a flavor so c’est bien. You infuse the half and half first with shallots and rosemary. Slice the potatoes with a mandoline or sharp knife by hand, or with the slicing blade on a food processor. This gratin sets up beautifully to enjoy with Grilled Lamb Chops, Paillard-Style (page 140), Spit-Roasted Chicken with Charred Tomatoes on the Vine (page 129), or Grill-Roasted Tenderloin with Bacon-Mushroom Sauce (page 169). Leftovers? Mais oui!
SERVES 12 TO 15
Butter for baking dish
3 cups (750 ml) half and half
¾ cup (110 g) finely chopped shallot
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt
¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 pounds (2 kg) russet potatoes, peeled and sliced ¼ inch (.5 cm) thick
1 pound (455 g) soft rind cheese like Brie or Camembert
1½ cups (135 g) Parmesan cheese, grated
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Butter a 13 × 9-inch (3 L) baking dish.
Pour the half and half into a large microwave-safe bowl and heat on high for 2 minutes. Or pour into a medium-size saucepan and warm over medium heat. Remove from the heat and stir in the shallot, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Cover and let infuse for 30 minutes.
Layer half the potato slices in the prepared baking dish, overlapping them to fit. Slice and layer half the soft rind cheese and sprinkle with half of the Parmesan cheese. Arrange the remaining potatoes on top of the cheese and pour the cream mixture over. Repeat the layering and sprinkling with the remaining cheese.
Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 1 hour. Remove the foil and bake until the top is golden and bubbling, about 45 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into squares.
THE CHEESES OF NORMANDY
The picturesque harbor town of Honfleur, on the Atlantic side of Normandy, has been an artist’s retreat for over a century. The rolling countryside is dotted with pastures where Normande cattle, an ancient white breed with dark brown or black spots, graze. Honfleur boasts a thriving outdoor market where you can buy the tiny washed-rind, cow’s milk cheeses of the region: Pont-L’Evêque, Livarot, Petit Pavé d’Auge, and Camembert. You’ll also find the wonderful French butter from nearby Isigny. In France, these cheeses would be served with a simple green salad after the main course. In America, we would offer them as appetizers or include them in a rich and wonderful gratin.
STIR-GRILLED HARICOTS VERTS WITH LEMON VERBENA PISTOU
FRAGRANT LEMON VERBENA IS EXCELLENT PAIRED WITH THE FRESHEST BEANS you can get. You’ll need to grow your own lemon verbena or lemon balm for this recipe. If you don’t have either herb, then make and substitute the Four-Herb Pistou (page 27) instead. This recipe makes about 1 cup (250 ml) pistou. The extra is delicious served as an appetizer with crusty bread or dolloped on grilled chicken or fish. It can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks or in the freezer for up to 3 months.
SERVES 4
Lemon Verbena Pistou
2 cloves garlic, chopped or minced
1 cup (225 ml) lightly packed fresh lemon verbena or lemon balm leaves
¼ cup (20 g) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
¼ cup (40 g) chopped walnuts
½ cup (125 ml) olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds (1 kg) haricots verts (slender green beans)
2 teaspoons olive oil
For the Lemon Verbena Pistou, purée the garlic, lemon verbena, Parmesan, and walnuts in a food processor. With the motor running, through the feed tube, gradually add olive oil in a steady stream. Season with salt and pepper and process the pistou until smooth. Set aside.
Prepare a hot fire in your grill. Set an oiled grill wok or basket over the fire.
In a bowl, toss beans with olive oil. Transfer to the wok or basket and stir-grill for 5 to 8 minutes, or until tender.
Toss beans with ¼ cup (50 ml) of the pistou. Serve warm or let cool, refrigerate for up to 3 days, and serve cold.
BARBECUED WHITE BEANS WITH BACON AND PEAR
ANY TYPE OF PORK AND BEAN DISH TASTES SO MUCH SMOKIER AND RICHER WHEN it spends a little time on the grill. This one pairs well with grilled sausages or charcuterie, especially the Alsatian Knack (knackwurst), which is smoked pork in a white casing.
SERVES 8
Suggested wood: Apple, oak, or pear
4 large pears, peeled and diced
1 pound (450 g) dried white navy beans, soaked in water overnight, drained and rinsed
1 pound (450 g) smoked bacon, diced and cooked crisp
3 cups (700 ml) beer (preferably a pale lager)
¼ cup (60 ml) light (fancy) molasses or pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a foil pan, combine pears, beans, bacon, beer, molasses, salt, and pepper. Set aside.
Prepare a hot indirect fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood. (Replenish the wood chips as necessary.)
When you see the first wisp of smoke, place the pan of beans on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and grill for 1 to 1¼ hours, adding a little water if necessary, until the beans have softened and thickened and have a good smoky aroma.
Serve this in a bowl, family-style.
VARIATION:
You can also slow smoke this dish. Simply prepare an indirect low fire for smoking in your grill or smoker; close the lid, and smoke for 2½ to 3 hours, or until the beans are tender.
SEEDS OF A FRENCH GARDEN
If you go to Paris and you’re a gardener, a must-visit area is the Quai de la Mégisserie along the Seine near the Pont Neuf. There, you’ll find a sometimes raucous display of plant and pet shops selling birds, fish, and other animals. You’ll also find a famous French seed house—Vilmorin—founded in 1743. At Vilmorin, you can buy a packet of seeds to grow Basilic Pistou (the preferred basil variety for the Provençal pistou), eleven different varieties of the salad green known as mâche, many kinds of tiny green filet beans for haricots verts, and even the Cinderella pumpkin Rouge Vif d’Etampes. In North America, you can also find French seeds through Renee Shepherd at reneesgarden.com or cooksgarden.com, now part of W. Atlee Burpee & Co.
GRILLED ONIONS WITH THYME-SCENTED CREAM
THESE GRILLED WHOLE ONIONS, TOPPED WITH THYME-SCENTED CREAM, ARE A FABULOUS accompaniment to grilled steaks or pork chops. If you want to grill everything at the same time, you’ll need a hot fire for the meat but a cooler spot for the onions—perhaps along the perimeter of the grill or on an elevated rack. Or you can grill these alone over a medium fire.
SERVES 4
6 to 8 small yellow or white onions, peeled (about 1 pound/450 g)
Olive oil for brushing
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup (250 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or ½ teaspoon dried)
½ teaspoon fine kosher or sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Prepare a medium fire in your grill.
Using a grapefruit spoon or paring knife, cut out a 1-inch (2.5-cm) diameter core from the top of each onion. Brush the bottoms with olive oil and place in an aluminum pan.
In a bowl, whisk together garlic, cream, thyme, salt, and pepper. Spoon about 1 tablespoon into each onion, letting some drizzle down the sides. Reserve the remaining cream mixture.
Place the pan of onions on the grill. Close the lid and grill for 10 to 15 minutes. Baste with some of the cream mixture, close the lid and grill for 10 to 15 minutes more or until onions are browned and softened. Serve with the remaining cream spooned on top.
STIR-GRILL-ROASTED BABY BEETS WITH LEMON-HERB BUTTER
FRESH BEETS ARE SWEET AND DELICIOUS. WHETHER YOU USE THE DARK RUBY-COLORED, white, orange, or striped beets, the contrast in color with the green onions is very striking. To get the best flavor without the beets drying out during grilling, we par-cook the beets first, then stir-grill them. Slices of country bread on the side are nice for sopping up the extra butter.
SERVES 4
20 baby beets, trimmed (about 1 pound/450 g)
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 green onions, cut into 3-inch (6-cm) pieces
Lemon-Herb Butter
½ cup (113 g) unsalted butter, softened
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as dill, oregano, thyme, or parsley
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
In a pot of boiling water, boil the beets for 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender enough to pierce with a fork. Drain, rinse in cold water, and pat dry. Set aside.
For the Lemon-Herb Butter, melt the butter over medium-high heat in a small saucepan. Add the garlic and sauté for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Remove from the heat and stir in the herbs and lemon juice. Set aside.
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Place the beets in an oiled grill wok or basket and set on top of a baking sheet. Drizzle beets with some of the butter, tossing to coat. Season with salt and pepper.
Place the wok on the grill. Stir-grill for about 8 minutes, basting occasionally with Lemon-Herb Butter and tossing with wooden paddles or grill spatulas, until the beets are charred. Add green onions and stir-grill for 4 minutes, basting with Lemon-Herb Butter, until the onions are charred. Transfer to a platter and serve with the remaining butter on the side.
STIR-GRILLED SHALLOTS WITH TARRAGON BUTTER
MAKE THE FULL RECIPE EVEN IF YOU ARE DINING WITH FEWER PEOPLE. THIS DISH is excellent alongside Lavender-Smoked Rack of Lamb (page 145) and Basque-Style Pork Paillards with Red Peppers (page 174). Leftover grilled shallots can be chopped and served over any meat dish or added to salads, soups, sandwiches, dips, and tartines.
SERVES 4
10 to 12 shallots (about 1 pound/450 g)
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Tarragon Butter
1 garlic clove, minced
½ cup (113 g) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon tarragon vinegar
1 loaf crusty French bread
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Pull shallot sections apart if necessary, but do not peel. Place in an oiled grill wok or basket and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
For the Tarragon Butter, combine garlic, butter, tarragon, and vinegar in a small bowl. Set aside.
Place the grill wok or basket with the shallot sections on the grill. Stir-grill for about 15 minutes, or until skins are charred and some of the flesh is exposed and golden, with a bit of caramel ooze. Let cool for 3 to 4 minutes, and then slip off the skins.
Meanwhile, wrap the loaf of bread in foil and heat on the grill for about 2 minutes per side.
Place shallots in a shallow dish, add the butter, and toss to coat. Slice or tear the hot bread and serve with the bowl of buttery shallots.
PLANKED GOAT CHEESE-TOPPED BEEFSTEAK TOMATOES
FRENCH VILLAGES HAD THE VILLAGE BAKER, WHO WOULD FIRE UP THE WOOD-BURNING oven and allow the villagers to bake their gratins and stuffed vegetables after the bread baking was finished. We have the covered grill and an aromatic wood plank to do a similar job. Planking vegetables is so easy, because they don’t really need to cook through. Letting them sit on the warmed plank allows them to pick up a bit of its aromatic wood flavor along with the flavor of the grill.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 to 2 oak, cedar, or maple planks, soaked in water for at least 1 hour
2 to 3 large tomatoes (such as beefsteak), sliced about ¾ inch (1.5 cm) thick
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces (113 g) goat cheese
¼ cup (60 ml) chopped fresh herbs (such as chives, oregano, parsley, or basil)
Balsamic vinegar
Prepare a medium-hot indirect fire in your grill.
Arrange tomato slices on plank(s). Season the tomatoes lightly with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Crumble goat cheese over each tomato slice.
Place plank(s) on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and plank for about 15 to 20 minutes, or until tomatoes are warmed through and cheese is soft. Serve on the plank(s) with a sprinkle of fresh herbs and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.
VARIATIONS:
Prepare a variety of colorful heirloom tomatoes. Slice larger tomatoes, quarter smaller ones, and halve cherry tomatoes. Arrange on the plank(s) and follow the rest of the steps above.
Use crumbled blue cheese or French feta or shredded Cheddar cheese in place of the goat cheese.
PROVENÇAL GRILL-ROASTED TOMATOES
THESE ROBUSTLY FLAVORED STUFFED TOMATOES GIVE GRILLED FISH, SHELLFISH, chicken, lamb, or beef a Mediterranean flair. Start the tomatoes on the indirect side, and then grill the meat on the direct side.
SERVES 6
12 ripe but firm tomatoes, about 3 pounds (1.5 kg)
¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil
⅓ cup (75 ml) minced onion
2 tablespoons anchovy paste
2 cups (150 g) lightly toasted fresh breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons capers
Core the tomatoes. With the tip of a spoon, remove as many of the seeds as you can while leaving the pulp intact. Turn the tomatoes upside down to drain on paper towels.
In a skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the chopped onion until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the anchovy paste and stir until dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley, and capers.
Place the tomatoes right-side up in foil pan and stuff with the breadcrumb mixture. Set aside.
Prepare a hot indirect fire in your grill.
Place the pan on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and grill for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tomatoes are softened and the tops are browned. Serve hot or at room temperature.
GRILLED RATATOUILLE
DIFFERENT FROM THE CLASSIC RATATOUILLE THAT IS MORE LIKE A STEW, THIS grilled version has a bit of texture and crunch to it and is very colorful. For a main dish, this may be served tossed with pasta. This recipe includes enough vegetables for 1 pound (500 g) dried pasta, cooked. If you omit the anchovy paste, it’s also a wonderful vegan dish that you can serve with baguettes that have been sliced, their cut sides brushed with olive oil, and grilled.
SERVES 8
2 Japanese eggplants, about 12 ounces (350 g), stemmed and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) slices
2 large red onions, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) slices
2 yellow bell peppers, cored, seeded, and quartered
1 zucchini, about 6 ounces (175 g), halved lengthwise
3 firm ripe tomatoes, cut in half, about 18 ounces (550 g)
Olive oil for brushing
2 tablespoons anchovy paste
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely sliced fresh basil, for garnish
1 tablespoon capers, for garnish
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Set the prepared vegetables on a baking sheet and brush them lightly with olive oil.
Combine the anchovy paste and garlic and whisk in the olive oil. Set aside.
Place the eggplant and onions on the grill and grill for about 4 or 5 minutes per side until browned and supple. Remove from the grill and set back on the sheet. Place the peppers skin-side down on the grill and the zucchini and tomatoes cut-side down on the grill and grill until browned, about 4 or 5 minutes. Remove from the grill and set back on the sheet.
Chop all the grilled vegetables and place in a large bowl. Toss with the anchovy paste mixture. Mix well and season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with basil and capers. The dish may be served immediately or holds well for several hours. Serve at room temperature.