BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)
CHAPTER 4
SALADE
SALAD
Haricots Verts Salad with Mustard-Shallot Vinaigrette
SIDEBAR: Simple Bistro Salads à Deux: Garden Tomato Salad and Green Salad
Celery Root Remoulade
SIDEBAR: Stovetop Smoking Rapide
Bistro Grated Carrot Salad
Char-Grilled Romaine, Bacon, Tomato, and Roquefort
Grilled Endive with French Feta and Walnut Vinaigrette
Smoked Goat Cheese Salad with Sweet Cherries
Grilled Red and Savoy Cabbage with Roquefort and Celery Seed Dressing
Grilled Tuna Niçoise with Lime-Cilantro Remoulade
While a simple salad is more traditionally served as sort of a palate cleanser after the main course of a French meal, bistros do it differently. In these casual restaurants, salads can be in the realm of vegetable-based first courses—think of the famous grated vegetable bistro salads. They can also be simpler green salads served with some kind of cheese after the main course. The third type of salad is the salade composèe, or what we would think of as a main course salad, attractively arranged.
We have all types of bistro salads in this chapter. For the vegetable first course-type of salad, you can’t go wrong with Haricots Verts Salad with Mustard-Shallot Vinaigrette (page 70), one that we learned to make after trips to France. Celery Root Remoulade (page 71) and Bistro Grated Carrot Salad (page 73) also fall, deliciously, into this category.
Simpler green salads—with or without grilled greens—get a little extra flavor from smoked goat cheese, feta, or Roquefort. Try Smoked Goat Cheese Salad with Sweet Cherries (page 77), Grilled Endive with French Feta and Walnut Vinaigrette (page 75), and Char-Grilled Romaine, Bacon, Tomato, and Roquefort (page 74).
Grilling greens adds flavor through caramelization. The best greens to grill include romaine, cabbage, endive, and chard. Grill the greens, cut sides brushed with olive oil, directly on the grill grates, with the grill lid up so the greens caramelize but don’t steam and wilt.
The last type of salad is the salade composèe, most notably the Grilled Tuna Niçoise with Lime-Cilantro Remoulade (page 81).
With salads this delicious, you may decide that a baguette and a verre de vin are all you need for a satisfying meal.
HARICOTS VERTS SALAD WITH MUSTARD-SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE
HARICOTS VERTS ARE THOSE TINY, THIN FRENCH GREEN BEANS THAT START TO come on the market in late spring. They are also easy to grow in the garden. These beans should be cooked until just slightly crunchy, and then dressed warm with the vinaigrette. Use a lighter olive oil, not extra-virgin, as you don’t want the olive oil flavor to dominate here.
SERVES 4
1 pound (450 g) haricots verts or young, thin green beans
Mustard-Shallot Vinaigrette
1 large (1.5 ounce/45 g) shallot, diced
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup (50 ml) white wine vinegar
½ cup (125 ml) olive oil
Fine kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the beans in a large pot with enough water to cover them. Bring to a boil and cook until crisp-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold running water for 30 seconds to refresh the color but still keep them slightly warm. Let drain for 1 minute, and then transfer to a serving bowl.
To make the vinaigrette, whisk the shallot, mustard, and vinegar together in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking to blend. Season with the salt and pepper. Pour the vinaigrette over the beans, toss to coat, and serve immediately.
SIMPLE BISTRO SALADS À DEUX
To make a simple Garden Tomato Salad for two, cut two medium-size tomatoes into wedges. Season with kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Lightly drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil or Lemon-Tarragon Vinaigrette (page 26) and let sit for a few minutes before serving.
To make a simple Green Salad for two, wash, dry, and tear the freshest greens you can find at the market or from your garden, about two handfuls. Place in a bowl, and when ready to eat, lightly toss with 1 tablespoon of Walnut Oil Vinaigrette (page 26) or the vinaigrette of your choice.
CELERY ROOT REMOULADE
KNOBBY, ROUND CELERY ROOT DOESN’T LOOK LIKE MUCH IN THE PRODUCE AISLE, but appearances can be deceiving. Celery root, with its gentle flavor halfway between celery and potato, transforms into creamy soups and this grated salad, a bistro staple. True Parisian remoulade is mustard-based, not like New Orleans-style remoulade, which is more like tartar sauce. This recipe is adapted from one by well-known cookbook author and Francophile Patricia Wells, our American friend in Paris. For this salad, you simply toss the grated celery root in the Remoulade dressing for a delicious accompaniment to grilled anything. Cut celery root can turn dark, like potatoes, so make quick work of grating them and toss them in the dressing tout suite.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Remoulade
½ cup (125 ml) mayonnaise
¼ cup (55 ml) sour cream
¼ cup (55 ml) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons minced flat-leaf parsley
4 green onions, chopped
Coarse kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 (1-pound/500-g) celery root
For the Remoulade, whisk the mayonnaise, sour cream, and heavy whipping cream together in a bowl until smooth. Whisk in the lemon juice, mustard, and parsley and then add the green onions. Season with the salt and pepper. Set aside.
Peel and quarter the celery root, then grate in a food processor or by hand on the large holes of a box grater. As you grate each quarter, transfer it to the dressing in the bowl and stir to coat. This keeps the celery root from darkening. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
STOVETOP SMOKING RAPIDE
A stovetop smoker does just what its title suggests: It smokes foods indoors on your stovetop. Made of stainless steel, the stovetop smoker is designed to trap and smolder tiny wood particles away from the food so the resulting smoke permeates the food but doesn’t make your kitchen smoke alarm go crazy. This gadget makes short work out of smoking goat cheese, shrimp, and tomatoes. It looks like a covered sheet cake pan.
To use the stovetop smoker, place about 1 tablespoon of very fine wood chips in the center of the base of the smoker. These chips are available in many different varieties, including apple, cherry, oak, maple, and pecan. Make sure the chips are dry when you put them in the smoker so that they will smolder effectively.
A metal drip tray fits snugly on top of the chips, then a coated, footed wire rack is placed on the tray. Coat or brush whatever food you’re smoking with olive oil, then season it with salt and pepper.
Arrange your food in a single layer on the rack, so you have the most surface area exposed to the smoke. Slide the metal lid closed, extend the handles, and place the smoker over one burner. Gas or electric coil burners work just fine, but flat ceramic burners require 20 percent more cooking time. Also, make sure you have good ventilation; open a window or turn on a fan.
Turn the burner to medium (375°F/190°C) or medium-high (400°F/200°C) heat. Although the instructions enclosed with the smoker say to keep the heat on medium, we don’t. We mainly use medium-high heat so that the food gets cooked fast and doesn’t dry out. Your stovetop smoker won’t be in perfect alignment after placing it over medium-high heat, but who cares? Ours still work just fine.
Start keeping track of the cooking time when you see the first wisp of smoke escaping from the smoker.
It’s easy to tell when your food is done. Fish and shellfish should have a bronze cast and be opaque all the way through. Chicken, beef, and pork also will have a bronzish color and can be checked for doneness with an instant-read meat thermometer. Vegetables and cheeses are done when they have the amount of smoky taste you desire.
BISTRO GRATED CARROT SALAD
THIS IS SIMPLICITY ITSELF. THE FRESHEST GARDEN CARROTS MAKE ALL THE difference. Other fresh-from-the-garden vegetables that could be substituted for the carrots are finely sliced celery, halved cherry tomatoes, or thinly sliced tomatoes served on a platter and drizzled with the dressing.
SERVES 4 TO 6
4 cups finely shredded carrot, about 6 medium-size carrots (12 ounces/375 g)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons tarragon or raspberry vinegar
Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Place the grated carrot in a large bowl. In a small bowl, stir together the lemon juice, olive oil, and vinegar. Drizzle the dressing over the grated carrot and toss to blend. Serve at once, garnished with parsley.
CHAR-GRILLED ROMAINE, BACON, TOMATO, AND ROQUEFORT
FRENCH BISTRO SALAD MEETS AMERICAN IN THIS FUSION DISH. YOU CAN MAKE a meal of this salad, served with crusty bread. The vinaigrette can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. If you love this salad, change it up by switching dressings. The Mustard-Shallot Vinaigrette (page 70) would be superb. Do not trim the core of the lettuce or several of the outer leaves will fall off.
SERVES 6
Classic Vinaigrette
¾ cup (175 ml) vegetable oil
¼ cup (50 ml) white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon kosher salt
3 hearts of romaine, halved lengthwise, washed, and dried
Olive oil for brushing
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 strips bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
3 cups (420 g) halved cherry tomatoes
6 ounces (175 g) Roquefort or other hearty blue cheese
For the Classic Vinaigrette, combine the oil, vinegar, sugar, mustard, and salt in a glass jar with tight-fitting lid; cover and shake to blend.
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Lightly brush the cut side of the romaine with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Place the cut-side down on the grill. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes, or until outer lettuce leaves are charred and there are good grill marks on the cut side. (Do not close the grill lid or the lettuce will wilt.)
Portion the romaine among six plates and top with bacon, tomatoes, and Roquefort. Drizzle with the Classic Vinaigrette.
VARIATION:
To turn the Classic Vinaigrette into a creamy Roquefort dressing, add ½ cup (125 ml) mayonnaise and ½ cup (90 g) crumbled blue cheese; stir to blend.
GRILLED ENDIVE WITH FRENCH FETA AND WALNUT VINAIGRETTE
GRILLED GREENS ARE DELICIOUS, ALWAYS A WELCOME SURPRISE TO PEOPLE WHO have never tasted them before. They are charry on the outside and still crisp inside, blending the best of “grilled” and “salad.”
SERVES 4
8 small heads Belgian endive, outer leaves trimmed
Olive oil for brushing
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (90 g) crumbled French feta cheese, like Valbreso
½ cup (125 ml) Walnut Oil Vinaigrette (page 26), prepared
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Brush the endive with olive oil. Grill for 5 to 8 minutes, turning every 2 minutes, until nicely charred.
Place the grilled endive on a platter and season lightly with salt and pepper. Top with the crumbled feta and drizzle with the vinaigrette.
SMOKED GOAT CHEESE SALAD WITH SWEET CHERRIES
LONG A FIXTURE OF BISTRO MENUS, THE WARM GOAT CHEESE SALAD FEATURED A round of goat cheese coated in breadcrumbs and baked. In BBQ Bistro style, the goat cheese has a noticeable smoke aroma while staying soft, warm, and creamy. A mixture of tender greens is best for this salad. To add to the butter lettuce, try mâche or the mixture of tiny lettuces known as mesclun. The goat cheese can also be served as a dip with crackers, toasted bread, or endive. Sweet cherries add a bright color and flavor note.
SERVES 4
Suggested wood: Apple, cherry, grapevines, orange, or oak
¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
⅓ cup (50 g) toasted breadcrumbs
Four 2-ounce (55-g) portions soft goat cheese
1 head butter lettuce, washed, dried, and torn
1 cup (50 g) sweet cherries, pitted
1 recipe Classic Vinaigrette (page 74), prepared
Prepare an indirect fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood.
In a shallow bowl, blend the olive oil, salt, and pepper. Place the breadcrumbs in a separate shallow bowl. Dip each portion of goat cheese in the olive oil and then the bread crumbs. Place the coated cheese in an aluminum pan. Set the pan on the indirect side of the grill and close the lid. Smoke the cheese for about 50 to 60 minutes.
Arrange one quarter of the lettuce on each of four plates. Set one quarter of the cherries on each plate. Top the salad with a portion of the smoked goat cheese. Then drizzle the vinaigrette over the top and serve at once.
GRILLED RED AND SAVOY CABBAGE WITH ROQUEFORT AND CELERY SEED DRESSING
GRILLED WEDGES OF RED AND GREEN CABBAGE LOOK OH SO RUSTIQUE AND TASTE SO incroyable in this salad. If you love Roquefort cheese, add more as you like. If you don’t care for Roquefort (heaven forbid) you may skip the cheese or substitute a French feta. Napa cabbage is a delicious substitute for either of the cabbages.
SERVES 8
Celery Seed Dressing
¾ cup (175 ml) vegetable oil
⅓ cup (75 ml) cider vinegar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon celery seeds
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
¼ teaspoon dry mustard
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 small head red cabbage, quartered lengthwise
1 small head Savoy cabbage, quartered lengthwise
Olive oil for brushing
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper
8 ounces (227 g) Roquefort cheese, crumbled
For the Celery Seed Dressing, combine all of the dressing ingredients in a bowl and whisk to blend. Set aside.
Prepare a medium-hot fire in your grill.
Brush the cut sides of the cabbages with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill on the cut sides of the cabbage, turning once, until browned with good grill marks and warm and supple in the middle, about 5 minutes per side. Place cabbages on a platter and drizzle with dressing and sprinkle with cheese.
GRILLED TUNA NIÇOISE WITH LIME-CILANTRO REMOULADE
THE CLASSIC TUNA NIÇOISE—WITH COOKED BUT NOT GRILLED TUNA—HAS REMAINED a classic for a reason—it tastes refreshing in hot weather. It tastes even more so when you add the flavor of the grill. Before you grill the tuna, skewer baby Yukon potatoes and brush them with oil and season. Grill them until tender, turning often, then grill the tuna. Although the classic Tuna Niçoise features a basic vinaigrette, we think that Lime-Cilantro Remoulade keeps the French accent and is better with grilled tuna. Arrange it all on white plates into what the French call a salade composèe or an artful salad.
SERVES 4
1 pound (450 g) baby Yukon potatoes, threaded onto skewers
¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
1 bay leaf, slightly crunched
Fine kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Four 5-ounce (150-g) yellowfin tuna steaks, cut 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
4 ounces (125 g) baby greens
2 large hard-boiled eggs, shelled and quartered
3 cups (420 g) cherry tomatoes
3 ounces (90 g) cured black olives
1 recipe Lime-Cilantro Remoulade (page 32), prepared
Thread several baby Yukon potatoes onto skewers so that they are just touching. In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, vinegar, and bay leaf. Brush each skewer with the flavored olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Reserve the remaining flavored olive oil in the bowl.
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Place the potato skewers, tuna, and bowl of flavored oil on a doubled baking sheet. Carry everything out to the grill.
Grill the potato skewers for 10 to 15 minutes, turning often, or until they are blistered and soft. Baste with the flavored olive oil several times while grilling.
Grill the tuna steaks for 2½ to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare (3 to 4 minutes for medium). Baste with the flavored olive oil several times while grilling.
To serve, arrange the greens on each plate. Top with a grilled tuna steak, then remove the potatoes from the skewers and arrange along with the hard-boiled eggs, cherry tomatoes, and black olives. Pass the Lime-Cilantro Remoulade at the table.