Boeuf/Beef - BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)

BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)

CHAPTER 11

BOEUF

BEEF

Creole Coffee-Rubbed Filet Mignon with Béarnaise Sauce

Grilled Rib-Eye Steak au Poivre with Onion Straws

Bistro Steak and Frites with Shallot Butter

SIDEBAR: Homemade Frites

Grilled Sirloin with Asparagus, Onions, and Roquefort Sauce

Grill-Roasted Tenderloin with Bacon Mushroom Sauce

Provençal Beef Daube

SIDEBAR: Beef Tenderloin Savoir Faire

SIDEBAR: Bistro Steak with M. F. K. Fisher

Bistro beef dishes go one of two ways—cooked quickly, or very, very slowly.

The quick way involves steak cooked over a hot fire, from the classic Steak Frites (page 166) to Creole Coffee-Rubbed Filet Mignon with Béarnaise Sauce (page 163) and Grilled Rib-Eye Steak au Poivre with Onion Straws (page 164).

Perhaps no dish illustrates “BBQ bistro” better than the Provençal Beef Daube (page 170), in which the beef smokes first, then is marinated, and finally braised to fork tenderness.

CREOLE COFFEE-RUBBED FILET MIGNON WITH BÉARNAISE SAUCE

THE CREOLE COFFEE RUB GIVES A NEW ORLEANS FRENCH QUARTER TWIST TO THIS recipe for grilled filet mignon. Then we go classic and pair the coffee-rubbed steak with a luscious Béarnaise Sauce for a special dinner. Grill asparagus along with this, bake a Potato Gratin (page 98) ahead of time, and all you need is an elegant tart or a flourless chocolate cake for dessert. As you let the steaks rest, the internal temperature will go up 10 degrees, so keep that in mind as you grill. You can always put an under-done filet mignon back on the grill, but you can’t rescue one that is over-cooked.

SERVES 8

Creole Coffee Rub

2 tablespoons finely ground chicory coffee or espresso

1 tablespoon Spanish paprika

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon dry mustard

2 teaspoons fine kosher or sea salt

2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1 teaspoon dried tarragon

1 teaspoon dried oregano

4 (8-ounce/250-g) boneless filet mignon, rib-eye, sirloin, or strip steaks, cut ¾ to 1 inch (1.5 to 2.5 cm) thick

Olive oil for brushing

1 recipe Béarnaise Sauce (page 36), prepared and kept warm

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

Make the Creole Coffee Rub in a small bowl by combining the coffee, paprika, brown sugar, mustard, salt, cayenne, black and white peppers, tarragon, and oregano. Stir to blend and set aside.

Brush the steaks lightly with olive oil and season on both sides with the rub. Grill the steaks, covered, for 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare, 130°F (50°C). Serve each steak with a spoonful or two of the Béarnaise Sauce.

GRILLED RIB-EYE STEAK AU POIVRE WITH ONION STRAWS

ADD A SIDE OF CREAMED SPINACH AND YOU’VE GOT THE CLASSIC STEAKHOUSE entrée with a bistro twist! Steakhouses have commercial equipment that cranks out the BTUs for high, high heat, but you can achieve a charry exterior and tender, juicy interior by heating your grill very hot. To do so, heat with the lid closed. Then grill the steaks with the lid closed except for when you turn the steaks. Use a mandoline slicer for paper-thin onion slivers. You can fry the onion slivers earlier in the day and simply warm the slivers in a 350°F (180°C) oven, uncovered on a baking sheet, for about 10 minutes or until warmed through.

SERVES 4

Fried Onion Slivers

1 large onion, sliced paper-thin

½ cup (65 g) all-purpose flour

3 cups (750 ml) peanut oil

Kosher or sea salt

Four 8-ounce (250-g) rib-eye steaks, 1½ inches (4 cm) thick

Olive oil for brushing

3 tablespoons Three-Peppercorn Rub (page 23), prepared

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1 recipe Three Peppercorn-Beurre Blanc (page 39), prepared

For the Fried Onion Slivers, toss the onion in flour until well coated. In a deep saucepan or an electric skillet, heat the peanut oil over medium heat until it registers 350°F (180°C) on a candy or deep-fry thermometer. Add the onion, in batches, and fry, stirring frequently, for 7 to 8 minutes, or until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towels. Season with salt. Set aside and keep warm.

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

Brush the steaks with olive oil and sprinkle the peppercorn rub and the salt on both sides, pressing it into the steak. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side, with the grill lid closed, turning once, until charred with good grill marks on the outside and a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a steak registers 130°F (50°C) for medium-rare, or until desired doneness. Serve the steaks with a side of the onion straws and spoon the Three-Peppercorn Beurre Blanc generously over the steaks.

BISTRO STEAK AND FRITES WITH SHALLOT BUTTER

FRENCH BISTRO DINERS ARE PARTIAL TO HAVING THEIR STEAKS A LITTLE ON THE chewy side but very flavorful. For that type of steak, you want bavette, flat iron, hanger, or flank steak. Bavette, cut from the flank, can be found at specialty butcher shops or online at Niman Ranch. The flat iron steak is cut from chuck. Hanger steak, also cut from the flank, is actually a whole muscle and is chewier than flank steak; it’s known in France as onglet. You need to tenderize these steaks either by marinating them for at least an hour (preferably 8 hours) or pounding them with a meat tenderizer or mallet. Then you grill them over a hot fire to medium-rare. The final crucial step is slicing them properly to serve. Cut the meat against the grain, on the diagonal, holding your knife at a 45-degree angle (so it’s slanted, not straight up and down).

SERVES 4

Bavette Marinade

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1½ pounds (750 g) beef bavette or flank, hangar, or flat iron steak

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 recipe Shallot Butter (page 47), prepared, at soft room temperature

1 recipe Homemade Frites (page 167), prepared

8 ounces (250 g) fresh watercress or mâche greens

For the Bavette Marinade, place the ingredients in a sealable plastic bag. Add the steak, seal the bag, and coat the steak with marinade. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 8 hours.

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

Remove the meat from the marinade and pat dry. Season with salt and pepper.

Grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare. Remove to a platter and dot with half the Shallot Butter. Tent the meat with foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Cut against the grain, on the diagonal and at a 45-degree angle, into slices about ¼ inch (0.5 cm) thick. Serve warm with the remaining Shallot Butter, Homemade Frites, and watercress.

HOMEMADE FRITES

Basically, these are homemade French fries, but they sound better as frites, don’t they? On bistro menus, you’ll often find mussels (see Pan-Grilled Mussels on page 42) and thin, chewy steaks served with frites. The secrets to great frites include cutting them thin and keeping the oil at or around 350°F (180°C). A deep fryer is great, but you can also use an electric skillet or a deep skillet and a candy thermometer.

Serves 6 to 8

4 large Idaho potatoes, peeled (about 2 pounds/1 kg)

Vegetable oil such as peanut oil for frying

Coarse kosher or sea salt

Cut the potatoes lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick (0.5 cm) slices, and then cut each slice into ¼-inch-wide (5 cm) strips. Place the strips in a bowl of ice water for 15 minutes.

Drain the water from the potatoes and pat very dry with paper towels.

Add 2 inches (5 cm) of vegetable oil to a deep fryer or skillet. If using a skillet, place over medium-high heat. When the oil reaches 350°F (180°C), place half the potatoes in the hot oil and cook, turning if necessary, until the potatoes turn golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to paper towels and season with salt. Keep warm in a low oven 200°F (100°C) while you prepare the second batch. Serve immediately.

VARIATIONS:

Season the frites with Rosemary Salt or Fennel Salt (page 24) for a savory twist.

Some frites aficionados swear by double frying the potatoes. To do this, fry them the first time as above and drain on paper towels. Then fry them again for a few minutes until light golden brown. Keep warm until ready to serve them or serve them right away.

GRILLED SIRLOIN WITH ASPARAGUS, ONIONS, AND ROQUEFORT SAUCE

APLATTER OF FRESH TOMATOES AND SOME GOOD BREAD TO MOP UP THE SAUCE ARE all you need to complete this meal. A 2-pound (1 kg) sirloin, grilled rare or bleu, will also yield leftovers for future meals, another plus.

SERVES 4

Roquefort Sauce

Makes about 1⅓ cups (325 ml)

4 ounces (113 g) unsalted butter, melted

¼ cup (50 ml) Worcestershire sauce

6 ounces (175 g) Roquefort, Gorgonzola, or other blue cheese, crumbled

1 garlic clove, minced

Fine kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 large garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon dried or 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves

1 boneless sirloin steak, 1½ to 2 pounds/750 g to 1 kg, cut 2 inches (5 cm) thick

1 pound (450 g) fresh asparagus, trimmed

2 large (1 pound/500 g) red onions, peeled and cut into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) slices

Olive oil for brushing

Fine kosher or sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

For the Roquefort Sauce, whisk the melted butter, Worcestershire sauce, Roquefort, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste together in a small bowl and set aside.

Mix the olive oil, garlic, and rosemary into a paste and spread over the surface of the meat. Brush the asparagus and onion slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Grill the steak for 8 minutes, turning once, or until it registers 125°F (45°C) for rare, or until desired doneness. Remove the steak from the grill and let the meat rest for 5 minutes. Place the onions on the grill along with the steak. Turn the onions once after about 4 minutes or until they have softened and have good grill marks. Place the asparagus on a perforated grill rack and grill, turning often, until softened and browned. To serve, slice the steak on the diagonal, nap with the sauce, and accompany with the asparagus and onion.

GRILL-ROASTED TENDERLOIN WITH BACON MUSHROOM SAUCE

GRILL THE TENDERLOIN WITH A LITTLE CHAR ON THE EXTERIOR, LEAVING THE interior rosy and juicy. You’ll need a really hot fire, preferably one made with mesquite charcoal, though you can still have a very good tenderloin on a gas grill.

SERVES 10 TO 12

Suggested wood: A mixture of apple and oak or cherry and pecan

Bacon Mushroom Sauce

12 ounces (375 g) thick-sliced bacon

4 ounces (125 g) mushrooms, sliced

1½ cups (375 g) sour cream

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon grated onion

2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

1 beef tenderloin (6 to 8 pounds/3 to 4 kg), trimmed

3 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

Coarse kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the Bacon Mushroom Sauce, fry the bacon in a large skillet until crisp. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat and sauté the mushrooms until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and let cool. Crumble the bacon and add to bowl of mushrooms. Add the sour cream, parsley, onion, and horseradish and stir to blend. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Brush the tenderloin with butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Prepare a hot fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood.

When you see the first wisp of smoke from the wood, place the tenderloin on the grill. Close the lid and grill for 20 to 22 minutes, turning a quarter turn every 5 minutes and brushing with butter halfway through, or until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the tenderloin registers 130°F (50°C) for medium-rare, or until your desired doneness. Let rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Serve the sliced tenderloin with a dollop of the Bacon Mushroom Sauce on top or on the side.

PROVENÇAL BEEF DAUBE

AFRENCH DAUBE IS SIMILAR TO BRAISED BOEUF BOURGUIGNON, EXCEPT THE PIECES of beef are cut into larger cubes than for the bourguignon. The rich, fragrant broth gets a boost from smoking the meat first to add another layer of flavor. This daube is best made 2 days ahead and it is worth it. The first day, smoke the chuck roast for 1½ hours and marinate overnight. The second day, braise the beef in a fragrant, smoky broth, then let cool and refrigerate. The third day, you simply reheat the dish and serve with mashed potatoes, crusty bread and butter, and a hearty glass of red wine. It is a perfect make-ahead dish for company. To test whether the roast is fork-tender, stick a fork in a section of meat and twist. If the meat twists, it’s tender enough. If you like, adding a simple, lightly dressed green salad completes this meal. As Julia Child would say, “Bon appétit!”

SERVES 8 TO 10

Suggested wood: Cherry, chestnut, or oak

4 pounds (2 kg) boneless beef chuck roast, cut into 3-inch (7.5-cm) cubes

4 white onions, thinly sliced (2 pounds/1 kg)

5 whole cloves

5 whole allspice

5 bay leaves

5 sprigs fresh thyme

4 cups (1 L) dry red wine

¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 (28-ounce/800-g) can fire-roasted whole tomatoes with juice

1 (15-ounce/425-g) jar chopped roasted red bell peppers, drained

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoons drained capers

2 loaves of crusty bread, sliced

Prepare an indirect fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood. (Replenish the wood chips or chunks as necessary.)

Arrange the cubed beef in foil pan and place on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and smoke for 1½ hours.

Transfer the beef to a large stainless steel bowl. Cover with the onions and add cloves, allspice, bay leaves, and thyme. Pour the red wine over the meat mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 20 to 24 hours. Strain the beef mixture, reserving the marinade. Place the onions in a strainer and pat dry with paper towels. Using paper towels again, pat the cubed beef dry and set on a baking sheet on top of additional paper towels.

In a Dutch oven, heat oil over high heat and sauté the onions for 10 minutes, or until translucent. Remove with a slotted spoon to a plate and set aside.

Add oil to the pan if necessary and, working in three to four batches, brown the beef over medium heat, adding oil as necessary between batches. Season with salt and pepper, remove with a slotted spoon to a plate, and set aside.

Pour the marinade into the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add tomatoes with juice, roasted peppers, garlic, and capers. Return the onions, beef, and any accumulated juices to the pan. Cover and simmer for at least 2 hours, or until beef is fork-tender. Remove lid and let cool for at least 1 hour. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

To serve, reheat the daube and ladle three or four chunks of the beef with plenty of sauce and vegetables into each bowl. Serve the crusty bread in a basket. It’s a must to sop up the delicious smoky gravy.

BEEF TENDERLOIN SAVOIR FAIRE

You can get extra savings on beef tenderloin if you trim it yourself. If you’ve ever trimmed out a pork tenderloin, the process is the same. The whole tenderloin will have a thick end and will taper down to a thin end. Trim off any fat and silverskin. If something looks like it isn’t meat, trim it off. Tuck the tapered end under and tie the tenderloin at intervals with kitchen string so it is the same width and thickness all the way through. That way, it will grill evenly.

If you don’t need a whole tenderloin for a dish, you can cut the size tenderloin you want to grill, and then slice the rest into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) filet mignons. Cut the tapered end into chunks for brochettes.

BISTRO STEAK WITH M. F. K. FISHER

Iconic food writer Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher lived in France, then wrote about her adventures for publications such as House Beautiful. In an article for that magazine in September 1944, she recounted the steak she had at a Parisian bistro owned by Madame Duflos. The steak, marinated in red wine vinegar and oil, would be patted dry, then “slapped onto a grill as hot as hell-fire and as searing,” Fisher writes. “No turning-fork would ever prick it, and when it would finally be carved into long thin slices at the table, its juices would gush from it the color of garnets.”

But that wasn’t all. “The piles of watercress on the platter would be tossed in the cooling juices, and then served with the steak.”