Viande de Gibier/Game - BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)

BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)

CHAPTER 10

VIANDE DE GIBIER

GAME

Wood-Fired Duck Breasts with Fresh Herb Butter

SIDEBAR: The Armchair Hunter’s Guide to Game Meats

Camembert-Stuffed and Prosciutto-Wrapped Pheasant Breasts

Herb-Grilled Rabbit with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce

Venison Tenderloin with Blackberry Brandy Beurre Blanc

Grilled Frog Legs with Garlic and White Wine

Grilled Wild Boar Steaks with Stir-Grilled Apples

In France, hunting is a way of country life, and the lineages of hunting dogs can be traced for hundreds of years. Until the French Revolution, hunting was the preserve of the rich and the royal. When we were at Chateau du Fey in Burgundy, one of our day trips was to the International Museum of the Hunt in Gien, where rifles and guns, oil portraits of prized hunting dogs, and still-life paintings with game as the centerpiece held our interest. The still-life art of French painters such as Jean Siméon Chardin and Jean-Baptiste Oudry (widely exhibited in the Louvre and major museums throughout the world) celebrate the bounty of the wild and the skill of the hunter.

So does this chapter.

Prized game meat cooked properly is nothing less than wonderful. Without hormones, all natural, and forage-fed in the wild, game such as elk, deer, wild boar, ducks, geese, pheasant, grouse, and squab all have unique, fuller flavors than domestic game. Most game meat is very lean with little fat to marble it. Because of that, it is best to cook game meat quickly over higher heat to about medium-rare to medium. This makes game a perfect choice for the high heat of the grill.

There are also other things that hunters bring home after la chasse. That could be wild mushrooms and blackberries foraged along the way, or even frog legs. If it’s local and wild, the hunter will find it.

WOOD-FIRED DUCK BREASTS WITH FRESH HERB BUTTER

WILD MALLARD DUCK BREASTS ARE VERY SMALL, ABOUT 6 OUNCES (175 G). Domestic Muscovy or Long Island duck breasts are about 8 ounces (250 g), while moulard duck breasts can weigh up to 1 pound (500 g)! If you use large duck breasts, grill them longer, with your meat thermometer at the ready. You’re aiming for 145°F (65°C) for medium at the most.

SERVES 4

Suggested wood: Apple, cherry, orange, or pear fruitwood

4 boneless skinless mallard duck breasts

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly cracked black peppercorns

½ cup (113 g) Fresh Herb Butter (page 47)

4 slices of baguette

Using a meat mallet, pound the duck breast to ¾-inch (2-cm) thickness. Lightly coat with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Set Aside.

Prepare a medium-hot fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill.

Grill the duck for 2½ to 3 minutes per side, turning once, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a breast registers 140°F (60°C) for medium-rare, or until desired doneness. Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil, and let rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Spread some of the extra herb butter on the slices of bread. Slice the duck breasts and fan onto each plate. Top with a dollop of herb butter and serve with the herb-buttered bread on the side.

VARIATION:

For a more casual recipe, make duck croissant sandwiches. Slather with the spread of your choice or a drizzle of the Port Cherry Sauce (page 175). Place a grilled duck breast on each roll and top with thin slice of red onion and crumbled French feta or Roquefort blue cheese.

THE ARMCHAIR HUNTER’S GUIDE TO GAME MEATS

If you don’t hunt but still would like to try game meats, where can you find them? You can try specialty butcher shops or Dean & Deluca. D’Artagnan, founded by Ariane Daguin in upstate New York, is the Francophile’s go-to source for duck, pheasant, venison, rabbit, wild boar, and more at www.dartagnan.com. Broken Arrow Ranch in Texas offers venison, wild boar, and antelope at www.brokenarrowranch.com.

CAMEMBERT-STUFFED AND PROSCIUTTO-WRAPPED PHEASANT BREASTS

THE KEY TO SMOKING IS NOT LOOKING. WHEN YOU OPEN THE LID TO TAKE A PEEK, the heat escapes and you’ll need to add 5 to 10 minutes to compensate. The smoke also escapes … so don’t peek. The Camembert will soften and begin to ooze out of the breasts while they cook, but the foil pan will keep the melting cheese from falling into the grill.

SERVES 4

Suggested wood: Oak, apple, maple, pecan, or chestnut

4 boneless skinless pheasant breasts (about 6 to 7 ounces/175 to 205 g each)

4 ounces (125 g) Camembert, sliced

8 basil leaves

4 slices prosciutto

2 tablespoons olive oil

Prepare an indirect fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood.

Using a meat mallet, pound the pheasant to ½-inch (1-cm) thickness. Place on a work surface, smooth-side down. Place 1 ounce (30 g) of Camembert and two basil leaves in the middle of each breast. Fold the side over (like an omelet) to enclose the cheese and basil, tucking a little bit of the ends inward, too. Wrap each with a slice of prosciutto and lightly coat with olive oil. Place in foil pan.

Place the foil pan on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and smoke for 45 to 55 minutes, or until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast registers 155°F (73°C). Transfer to a cutting board, tent with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. (The internal temperature of the breast meat will rise another 5°F [2°C] for a perfect well-done breast). Slice crosswise into slightly less than 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) slices.

VARIATION:

Pounding the pheasant breast is a way to slightly tenderize the meat. If you know the pheasant is young (and tender), then you may simply slit the breast to make a pocket, stuff the pocket with the cheese and herbs, and then wrap in the prosciutto. Other stuffing combinations like apricots, pistachios, and Brie; tapenade and goat cheese; or feta and chives would be equally delicious.

HERB-GRILLED RABBIT WITH WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD SAUCE

SOAKING WILD RABBIT IN MILK IS A COMMON MARINADE THAT IS SAID TO LESSEN the gaminess. If the rabbit is domestic, no presoaking is necessary. You may also slather the rabbit with Herbes de Provence Flavoring Paste (page 28) instead of soaking. Serve the rabbit on a platter on top of Toasted Barley Pilaf with Grilled Garden Vegetables (page 121).

SERVES 4

Suggested wood: Apple, cherry, oak, or pecan

1 wild or domestic rabbit (about 3 pounds/1.5 kg), cut into 8 pieces

2 cups (500 ml) milk (optional)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons Provençal Herb Rub (page 22), prepared

1 cup (250 ml) Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce (page 34), prepared

If using wild rabbit, place the pieces in a large bowl and add the milk. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Remove the rabbit from the milk, discard the milk, and pat the rabbit dry.

Place the rabbit pieces in a shallow dish, rub with olive oil, and sprinkle with the Provençal Herb Rub. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Meanwhile, prepare a medium-hot fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood.

When you see the first wisp of smoke from the wood, place rabbit on the grill. Close the lid and grill for 8 to 10 minutes per side, turning once, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a rabbit piece registers 160°F (75°C). Serve with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce.

VARIATION:

In a hurry? If the preparation of the rub and the sauce are daunting because you don’t have time or just don’t want to make them, simply substitute herbes de Provence or dried crushed rosemary for the rub and use whole-grain mustard for the sauce.

VENISON TENDERLOIN WITH BLACKBERRY BRANDY BEURRE BLANC

VENISON TENDERLOIN, CHOPS, AND STEAKS ARE COVETED CUTS FROM DEER AND elk. If you don’t have time to make the sauce, simply grill them with the olive oil, salt, and pepper. But once you taste the sauce you’ll find time to make it. This sauce is also wonderful paired with grilled duck breast.

SERVES 4

Blackberry Brandy Beurre Blanc

1 garlic clove, minced

1 cup (250 ml) blackberry brandy

¼ cup (50 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced shallot

1 cup (250 ml) heavy whipping cream

¼ cup (56 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1 cup (125 g) fresh or frozen blackberries, thawed

2 pounds (1 kg) deer or elk tenderloin or 8 chops (each about 4 ounces/125 g and ½ inch/1 cm thick)

Olive oil for brushing

Coarse kosher salt and freshly cracked black peppercorns

For the Blackberry Brandy Beurre Blanc, combine the garlic, brandy, lemon juice, and shallots in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Continue to boil, stirring often, until it is reduced to about ¼ cup (50 ml), about 5 minutes. Add the cream and return to a boil. Boil until the sauce is reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter, one piece at a time, whisking until the sauce glistens and thickens. Stir in the blackberries and keep warm.

Prepare a hot fire in your grill.

Lightly brush the venison tenderloin or chops with olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Grill the tenderloin for 5 minutes per side, turning once, until medium-rare, or until desired doneness. Grill the chops for about 2 minutes per side, turning once, until medium-rare, or until desired doneness. Remove the tenderloin or chops from the heat and tent with foil for about 10 minutes to let the meat rest. To serve, slice the tenderloin at a 45-degree angle. Spoon the Blackberry Brandy Beurre Blanc over the sliced tenderloin or the chops and serve.

GRILLED FROG LEGS WITH GARLIC AND WHITE WINE

AGARLIC AND WHITE WINE SAUCE IS THE CLASSIC BISTRO PREPARATION FOR FROG legs. We stay true to that sauce, but we grill the frog legs for a wonderful charred flavor. Nothing else is needed with this recipe except for a good loaf of crusty bread. You can find frog legs at specialty butcher shops or seafood shops or online.

SERVES 4

2 pounds (1 kg) frog legs, cleaned and skinned

1 cup (250 ml) olive oil

1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine

¼ cup (50 ml) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

4 garlic cloves, minced

Zest and juice of 2 lemons, plus 2 additional lemons

¼ cup (56 g) butter

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 loaf of crusty French or Italian bread, sliced, and wrapped in foil

Place the frog legs in a large sealable plastic bag. Combine the olive oil, wine, parsley, garlic, lemon zest, and lemon juice. Pour half of the mixture into the bag of frog legs and refrigerate for 24 hours. Reserve the rest of the marinade in a separate container and refrigerate.

When ready to grill, prepare a medium-hot fire in your grill.

Pour the reserved marinade into a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and add the butter. Keep warm.

Place the frog legs on a baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Cut the remaining lemons in half. Take out to the grill with the foil-wrapped bread.

Grill the frog legs over the fire for about 3 minutes per side. Grill the lemon halves for about 2 minutes, cut-side down. Place the foil-wrapped bread in the back of the grill and warm it while the frog legs and lemon halves are grilling.

Arrange the grilled frog legs on a platter and pour the warm marinade over all. Serve with the grilled lemon halves for those who like another squeeze of lemon on the frog legs and a basket of the crusty bread for mopping up the sauce.

VARIATION:

If you start with the basic marinade recipe above, you can add 2 or 3 tablespoons of soy sauce for an Asian-flavored marinade. Instead of the parsley, use chives or cilantro for an additional flavor change.

GRILLED WILD BOAR STEAKS WITH STIR-GRILLED APPLES

IN THE FALL, BISTRO MENUS OFFER WILD BOAR OR MARCASSIN, USUALLY AS A SLOW-COOKED dish. Our grilled version is also delicious, benefitting from another seasonal favorite, apples. The wild boar steaks are from the loin and are also referred to as chops. This is the tenderest meat and can be grilled, much like hanger or flank steak, to your desired doneness (but optimally, rare). You can find wild boar at specialty butchers or online at shops such as www.brokenarrowranch.com.

SERVES 6

Stir-Grilled Apples

2 tablespoons packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon freshly cracked black peppercorns

½ teaspoon ground cloves

4 garlic cloves, minced

4 tablespoons olive oil

6 apples, crisp tart varieties like Jonagold

6 (8-ounce/250-g) wild boar steaks or chops

Prepare a hot fire in your grill. Lightly oil a grill wok or basket.

For the Stir-Grilled Apples, combine the brown sugar, salt, pepper flakes, cracked pepper, and cloves, whisking to combine. Stir in the garlic and olive oil.

Core and quarter the apples and place in a bowl. Spoon a third of the brown sugar mixture over the apples, stirring to coat the apples evenly, prior to grilling.

Coat the chops with the rest of the brown sugar mixture.

Grill the chops to 130°F (55°C) for rare and 140°F (60°C) for medium-rare. While the chops are grilling, place the apples in a grill wok. Toss with wooden spoons until apples are a bit browned and warmed through. Serve the chops in the center of a platter surrounded by the apples.