BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)
CHAPTER 1
GARDE-MANGER
PANTRY
Provençal Herb Rub
Three-Peppercorn Rub
SIDEBAR: French Herb Garden Salts: Rosemary Salt, Lavender Salt, and Fennel Salt
Walnut Oil Vinaigrette
Lemon-Tarragon Vinaigrette
Four-Herb Pistou
Herbes de Provence Flavoring Paste
Dijon Mustard-Mayonnaise Slather
Food Processor Aioli
SIDEBAR: The BBQ Bistro Smoke Pantry
White Truffle Aioli
Lime-Cilantro Remoulade
SIDEBAR: Sauce Rapide: Avocado Crème Fraîche and Brown Sugar Crème Fraîche
Lemon-Tarragon Cream Sauce
Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce
Hollandaise Sauce
Béarnaise Sauce
SIDEBAR: The Bistro Grill Pantry
Mustard-Cornichon Beurre Blanc
Three-Peppercorn Beurre Blanc
The French term for pantry—garde-manger—translates into “keeper of the food” or the place where food is kept. In French restaurants, the chef who takes on garde-manger duty has a tough job with many moving parts, but in a griller’s household, this simply means making seasonings and sauces ahead of time.
You don’t want to be out at the grill, searing the perfect steak, and think, “Saint-merde, I forgot to make the Béarnaise!”
From herb rubs, salts, and grilling paste to traditional pistou (the French version of pesto), this chapter showcases lots of ways to get robust flavor before grilling, smoking, or planking. Vinaigrettes do double duty as marinades and finishing sauces for vegetables. And then aioli, Lime-Cilantro Remoulade (page 32), and cream sauces like Lemon-Tarragon Cream Sauce (page 34) pair well with grilled foods of all kinds and can be made well ahead of time.
The emulsion sauces—Béarnaise Sauce (page 36), Mustard-Cornichon Beurre Blanc (page 38), Three-Peppercorn Beurre Blanc (page 39)—are based in the classic French tradition but updated for today. Once made, keep them warm with the pan set over hot water. Don’t try to keep them going for more than 30 minutes.
You can also grill and smoke vegetables ahead of time and keep them ready to pop into sauces, sandwiches, soups, or salads. See The Bistro Grill Pantry (page 37) and The BBQ Bistro Smoke Pantry (page 30) for how to do that.
PROVENÇAL HERB RUB
THE DRY, CHALKY HILLSIDES IN THE SOUTH OF FRANCE PRODUCE HERBS WITH A high volatile oil content, which translates to more aroma and flavor. Try this blend on fish, meat, and vegetables. We both keep an ever-changing dried herb jar in our kitchens, which receives the addition of a new herb at whim. Customize a jar by combining your favorite dried herbs. Use 1 to 2 teaspoons of this rub per fish fillet or steak. You can find dried lavender buds online at Penzeys or from other herb and spice shops.
MAKES ¾ CUP (175 ML)
3 tablespoons dried thyme
3 tablespoons dried rosemary
3 dried bay leaves
2 tablespoons dried basil
2 tablespoons dried marjoram
1½ teaspoons fennel seeds
1 teaspoon dried summer savory
1 teaspoon dried lavender buds (culinary use only)
Combine the ingredients, leaving the bay leaves whole. Prepare at least 1 hour ahead of time so the bay leaves have time to infuse the mixture with their flavor. Store in a dark cupboard in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid; it will keep its punch for up to 6 months. Remove the bay leaves before using the blend, then return the bay leaves to the mixture after use.
THREE-PEPPERCORN RUB
PEPPERCORNS IN THREE DIFFERENT COLORS AND FLAVORS MEAN THREE TIMES THE flavor in this rub, which is delicious on the classic steak au poivre (page 164). You’ll need a mortar and pestle (or a clean dish towel and a heavy meat mallet) to crack but not completely grind the toasted peppercorns. For an even greater hit of peppercorn, serve grilled beef, salmon, or tuna steaks with this rub, accompanied by Three-Peppercorn Beurre Blanc (page 39).
MAKES ABOUT ⅓ CUP (75 ML)
2 tablespoons Szechuan or white peppercorns
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 tablespoon dried green peppercorns
1 tablespoon coarse kosher or sea salt
Place all the ingredients in a small cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and toast, stirring frequently, until the spices become aromatic, about 2 minutes.
Scrape the mixture into a mortar and grind it with a pestle until crushed and still somewhat coarse. Use right away.
FRENCH HERB GARDEN SALTS
A heady, aromatic herb salt adds flavor to foods before or after grilling. The flavor of these salts gets better after a day or two, so plan ahead. Untreated or organic lavender buds are available at health food stores, online, or from your favorite gardener.
Rosemary Salt is delicious on vegetables or beef; Lavender Salt on chicken or lamb; and Fennel Salt on fish and shellfish.
Makes about ¼ cup (50 ml)
2 tablespoons dried rosemary, dried lavender buds (culinary use only), or fennel seeds
2 tablespoons fleur de sel or coarse sea salt
Combine the ingredients in a small glass jar with a tight-fitting lid. Cover and shake to blend. The salt will keep in the cupboard for several months.
VARIATIONS:
To make Lavender Salt: Substitute culinary dried lavender buds for the rosemary.
To make Fennel Salt: Substitute fennel seeds for the rosemary.
WALNUT OIL VINAIGRETTE
THIS IS DELICIOUS DRIZZLED OVER GRILLED VEGETABLES, CHICKEN, LAMB, OR PORK and is especially wonderful with salads that have toasted walnuts and grilled fruit as ingredients. Walnut oil is available at gourmet shops, olive oil stores, and specialty markets. Once opened, keep the walnut oil in the refrigerator.
MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML)
⅓ cup (75 ml) walnut oil
⅓ cup (75 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
⅓ cup (75 ml) balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon minced onion
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
In a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the walnut oil, olive oil, vinegar, onion, mustard, sugar, and salt; cover and shake to blend. Use right away or store in refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
LEMON-TARRAGON VINAIGRETTE
AS A MARINADE OR A FINISHING SAUCE, THIS IS DYNAMITE WITH CHICKEN, FISH, or shellfish. We also recommend using it to dress grilled vegetables and salads.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (500 ML)
½ cup (125 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice (3 to 4 lemons)
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon finely minced shallot
2 teaspoons dried tarragon
2 teaspoons amber-colored honey, such as clover or wildflower
½ cup (125 ml) olive oil
¼ cup (50 ml) chicken broth
Fine kosher or sea salt and ground white pepper
In a medium-size bowl, mix together the lemon juice, zest, vinegar, shallot, tarragon, and honey. Whisk in the olive oil and broth and season with salt and white pepper. The vinaigrette will not emulsify. Use immediately or pour into a medium-size jar with a tight-fitting lid. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
FOUR-HERB PISTOU
ATRADITIONAL FRENCH PISTOU IS MADE WITH FRESH BASIL, GARLIC, AND OLIVE oil but no pine nuts (as in Italian pesto). The addition of chives and mint or lemon balm keeps the pistou a brilliant grassy green. Pistou turns into a luscious marinade when mixed with several tablespoons of oil and vinegar.
MAKES 2 CUPS (500 ML)
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
½ cup (125 ml) packed fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ cup (125 ml) fresh basil
½ cup (125 ml) packed fresh mint or lemon balm
½ cup (125 ml) snipped chives or garlic chives
½ cup (125 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
⅓ cup (75 ml) freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a food processor, pulse garlic, parsley, basil, mint, and chives until finely chopped. With the motor running, through the feed tube, gradually add the olive oil. Add the cheese and pulse until you have a coarse-grained green sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 6 months.
HERBES DE PROVENCE FLAVORING PASTE
GIVE YOUR GRILLED AND SMOKED FOODS A TRUE SOUTH-OF-FRANCE FLAIR WHEN YOU slather fish, lamb, pork, game, or chicken with this bold mixture. If you don’t have lavender buds, substitute dried rosemary.
MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP (125 ML)
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup (50 ml) Dijon mustard
¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil
2 teaspoons dried herbes de Provence
½ teaspoon dried lavender buds (culinary use only)
Kosher salt or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a bowl, combine the garlic, mustard, olive oil, herbes de Provence, and lavender. Season with salt and pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
DIJON MUSTARD-MAYONNAISE SLATHER
THIS IS A GREAT SLATHER ON SALMON OR ANY OTHER FISH FOR PLANKING. IT IS also a great dipping sauce for grilled asparagus or artichokes. The aioli recipes can also be used as slathers.
MAKES 1 CUP (250 ML)
½ cup (125 ml) mayonnaise
½ cup (125 ml) Dijon mustard
In a bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and mustard. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
VARIATIONS:
Artichoke Slather: Finely chop 5 or 6 canned artichoke hearts and add to slather.
Shallot Slather: Finely chop 3 or 4 shallots and add to slather.
Caper Slather: Finely chop 3 or 4 tablespoons of drained capers and add to slather.
Artichoke-Shallot-Caper Slather: Add 2 finely chopped tablespoons of each.
FOOD PROCESSOR AIOLI
AIOLI IS A GARLICKY MAYONNAISE FROM PROVENCE USED TO ACCOMPANY FISH AND shellfish, but we love it with grilled salmon or a platter of grilled vegetables. The trick to making light, fluffy aioli in a food processor is using the whole egg instead of just egg yolks. If the food safety of raw eggs is a concern for you, use pasteurized eggs in their shells or ½ cup (125 ml) pasteurized liquid whole egg.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS (500 ML)
2 large eggs
2 to 4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1½ cups (375 ml) olive oil
In a food processor, combine the eggs, garlic, lemon juice, and mustard; pulse to blend. With the motor running, through the food tube, gradually add the olive oil, processing until thick and creamy. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
VARIATIONS:
Smoked Garlic Aioli: Use 2 to 4 smoked garlic cloves instead. To smoke garlic, leave the cloves whole with the skin on, brush with olive oil and place in a foil pan. Prepare an indirect fire with a kiss of smoke in your grill (page 15), using three wood chunks, such as apple, cherry, hickory, oak, or pecan. Place the chunks of wood directly on the ashed-over charcoal or a handful of flavored wood chips or wood pellets in a foil packet (with holes punched in it so the smoke can escape) on a gas grill near a burner. Place the foil pan on the indirect side of the grill, close the lid and smoke for 2 hours. Smoked garlic keeps in the refrigerator for several days or in the freezer for 1 month.
For a wonderfully herb-fragrant twist, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of a fresh herb such as basil, chives, or tarragon to the aioli.
THE BBQ BISTRO SMOKE PANTRY
A little smoke flavor provides the flavor of hearth cooking, harking back to the days before haute cuisine. A smoky ingredient, like bacon in boeuf bourguignon, adds depth to a dish. But that smoky ingredient doesn’t have to be meat. Vegetables can do just as well.
When you’re smoking vegetables for another dish, smoke extra for leftovers (les restes) and then freeze them for later use. You’ll need to prepare a hot fire on one side of your grill for indirect cooking and have wood chips or chunks smoldering (see page 15 for kiss of smoke). Simply brush prepared vegetables with olive oil, season, then place them in a disposable aluminum pan on the indirect (or no-heat) side of the grill. Cover and smoke until the vegetables have softened and have a good smoky aroma and a burnished appearance. Let cool, then chop if you like, and place in freezer containers, marking the date, quantity, and type of vegetable. When you want to use them, simply thaw and use on sandwiches or in soups, pastas, or sauces. If you like, use the stovetop smoker (see page 72 for how to use it) to smoke smaller quantities of vegetables.
Here are specific techniques for French garden vegetables:
BELL PEPPERS. Smoke whole peppers—especially red bell peppers, or poivrons rouge—then quarter, stem, seed, and freeze.
GARLIC. Peel and thread whole cloves of ail onto skewers. Or smoke a whole garlic bulb until soft, then squeeze out smoked garlic cloves and remove papery covering. Freeze softened garlic cloves.
ONIONS. Smoke whole, round oignons. Trim and chop grilled onions and freeze.
TOMATOES. Smoke whole tomates until softened, then peel and seed before freezing.
WINTER SQUASH OR PUMPKIN. Cut in half or quarter and scoop out seeds. Brush cut sides with olive oil, season, and place cut-side down in the pan. Scoop out softened, smoked courge musquée or citrouille and freeze.
WHITE TRUFFLE AIOLI
WE LOVE THIS AIOLI WITH GRILLED OR SMOKED BEEF TENDERLOIN, GRILLED potatoes, or grilled seafood, especially tuna. White truffle oil is available at gourmet shops or online. It has an earthy fragrance, and a few drops added to mashed potatoes or risotto is delicious. This recipe contains raw egg yolks. If the food safety of raw eggs is a concern for you, use pasteurized eggs. Many grocery stores now carry pasteurized eggs in their shells. Alternatively, use ¼ cup (50 ml) pasteurized liquid whole egg; the aioli won’t be quite as rich.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS (375 ML)
2 egg yolks
1 large garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 cup (250 ml) olive oil
1 to 2 tablespoons white truffle oil
In a glass bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and white pepper until smooth. Gradually whisk in the olive oil and truffle oil until the sauce thickens. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
LIME-CILANTRO REMOULADE
REMOULADE, AN HERB MAYONNAISE, IS A CLASSIC SAUCE WITH FISH AND SHELLFISH, but this version gives it red-carpet style. It’s particularly good with grilled tuna. If the food safety of raw eggs is a concern for you, use pasteurized eggs. Many grocery stores now carry pasteurized eggs in their shells. Alternatively, use ¼ cup (50 ml) pasteurized liquid whole egg.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS (375 ML)
2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon grated onion
2 large hard-boiled egg yolks
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
1 garlic clove, minced
1 large egg
1 cup (250 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon lime zest
Juice of 1 lime
Place the cilantro, onion, egg yolks, anchovy paste, garlic, and whole egg in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. With the motor running, through the food tube, gradually add the olive oil, processing until thick and creamy. Stir in the lime zest and juice. Cover tightly and chill until ready to serve. You can make the remoulade up to 24 hours in advance. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
SAUCE RAPIDE
Another bistro version of a quick, stir-together sauce is one made with crème fraîche. You can buy crème fraîche in the dairy section of better grocery stores or make your own by stirring equal parts of heavy whipping cream into dairy sour cream and letting it sit at room temperature for a few hours. A little mashed avocado and lime juice take crème fraîche in a savory direction for grilled vegetables, fish, shellfish, chicken, and lamb. A little brown sugar and rum take it in a sweet direction for grilled fruit.
AVOCADO CRÈME FRAÎCHE
Makes about 1½ cups (340 g)
1 small, ripe avocado, pitted
1 cup (226 g) crème fraîche or sour cream
2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
Kosher salt
Spoon the avocado pulp into a small bowl and mash until smooth with a fork. Add crème fraîche, lime juice, sugar, and salt to taste; fold together. Refrigerate for a least 1 hour, covered, or until thick. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
BROWN SUGAR CRÈME FRAÎCHE
Makes about 1½ cups (340 g)
1 cup (226 g) crème fraîche or sour cream
2 to 3 tablespoons rum
2 to 3 tablespoons packed dark brown sugar
Mix the crème fraîche, rum, and brown sugar together in a bowl. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, covered, or until thick. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
LEMON-TARRAGON CREAM SAUCE
THIS LUSCIOUS SAUCE TASTES WONDERFUL WITH SMOKED CHICKEN, TURKEY, OR LAMB. It is perfect to serve with asparagus, broccoli, cauliflower, and green beans, too.
MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUPS (625 ML)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
2 tablespoons tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
1 cup (250 ml) chicken stock
1 cup (250 ml) heavy whipping cream
Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons
1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon
Kosher salt
In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Sauté the shallots until tender, then add the vinegar, pepper, wine, and chicken stock; increase heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the mixture has reduced by about a third.
Add the cream, lemon zest, and lemon juice; simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, until slightly thickened. Stir in the tarragon and salt to taste. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Reheat gently.
WHOLE-GRAIN MUSTARD SAUCE
THIS IS A DELICIOUS SAUCE TO SERVE WITH GRILLED FISH, POULTRY, AND VEGETABLES. This sauce can also be used as a slather for planked fish, pork, or chicken. It’s an excellent sandwich spread, or use it as a smear on tartine with fresh tomatoes.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS (375 ML)
½ cup (125 ml) Dijon mustard
½ cup (125 ml) whole-grain mustard
½ cup (125 ml) mayonnaise
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried dill weed
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
In a bowl, whisk together the Dijon mustard, whole-grain mustard, mayonnaise, lemon juice, dill, Worcestershire sauce, and white pepper. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
HOLLANDAISE SAUCE
SERVE THIS WONDERFUL ALL-PURPOSE SAUCE ON GRILLED VEGETABLES, FISH, CHICKEN, or that breakfast classic—eggs Benedict. If the food safety of raw eggs is a concern for you, use pasteurized eggs. Many grocery stores now carry pasteurized eggs in their shells.
MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS (375 ML)
6 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 cup (226 g) unsalted butter, melted and hot
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper or hot sauce, or more
Fine kosher or sea salt
Place the egg yolks, lemon juice, and mustard in a food processor or blender and process until smooth. Slowly drizzle in the hot melted butter, pulsing the food processor or with the blender on low speed, until the sauce thickens. Add the cayenne and season with salt. Keep warm in the top of a double boiler or transfer to a stainless steel bowl and set over a pan of hot, not boiling, water until ready to serve.
VARIATION:
Browned Butter Hollandaise: Melt and then keep cooking the butter until it browns. Then add it to the egg yolks in the food processor and pulse until the sauce thickens.
BÉARNAISE SAUCE
THIS IS A BOLDER VERSION OF THE CLASSIC UNDERSTATED BÉARNAISE, WHICH makes it perfect for grilled foods, from burgers and steak to artichokes, asparagus, chicken, lamb, fish, and shellfish. Emulsion sauces like this one sometimes get cranky or excentrique and separate—usually if you’ve left them on higher heat too long. If that happens, don’t despair. Remove the sauce from the heat and gently whisk in a small ice cube, and all should be well—and smooth—again.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP (250 ML)
⅓ cup (75 ml) dry white wine
¼ cup (50 ml) tarragon vinegar
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot
1 teaspoon dried tarragon
¼ teaspoon fine kosher or sea salt
¾ cup (170 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces
3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
Cayenne pepper or hot sauce
Additional dried tarragon (optional)
In a small saucepan, bring wine, vinegar, shallot, tarragon, and salt to a boil over high heat. Boil until reduced to about 2 tablespoons, about 8 minutes. Reduce heat to low and whisk in butter, one piece at a time, until melted. Whisk in egg yolks and cook, whisking constantly, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until slightly thickened.
Remove from heat and whisk in pepper to taste. Whisk in more tarragon, if desired.
VARIATION:
Sauce Paloise: Substitute white wine vinegar for the tarragon vinegar and dried mint for the tarragon.
THE BISTRO GRILL PANTRY
What is the French term for shortcut? Raccourci, if you please. That’s just what grilled vegetables give you, and a stylish shortcut at that. Garden vegetables are ideal to grill, cool, then chop if you like and place in freezer containers, marking the date, quantity, and type of vegetable. When you want to use them, simply thaw and then use on sandwiches or in soups, tartines, or salads.
Simply brush prepared vegetables with olive oil, season, and then grill over a medium-hot fire until they have good grill marks.
Here are specific techniques for favorite French garden vegetables:
ASPARAGUS. Chop grilled spears of asperge and freeze.
BELL PEPPERS. Grill whole peppers—especially red peppers or poivrons rouge—then quarter, stem, seed, and freeze.
EGGPLANT. Cut aubergine into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) horizontal slices to grill. Leave as slices or chop and then freeze.
LEEKS. Grill baby leeks whole; slice larger poireaux lengthwise and grill.
ONIONS. Grill green or bulb oignons whole; grill round onions in slices. Chop grilled onions and freeze.
YELLOW SUMMER SQUASH OR ZUCCHINI. Cut courgettes into 1-inch-thick (2.5 cm) horizontal slices to grill. Leave as slices or chop and then freeze.
MUSTARD-CORNICHON BEURRE BLANC
SIMILAR IN PIQUANT FLAVOR TO BÉARNAISE, THIS BEURRE BLANC IS EASY TO MAKE, and it’s a great way to use up that odd jar of cornichons (small, whole pickled cucumbers) left over from the last time you served pâté. We love the sauce on grilled lamb, beef, chicken, fish, or vegetables. To keep the sauce warm, place the saucepan over a larger saucepan of hot water for up to 30 minutes.
MAKES 1½ CUPS (375 ML)
½ cup (113 g) unsalted butter, softened
⅓ cup (75 ml) Dijon mustard
1 shallot, minced
1 cup (250 ml) dry white wine
⅓ cup (75 ml) tarragon vinegar
12 cornichons, finely chopped (about ½ cup/125 ml)
⅓ cup (75 ml) heavy whipping cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon
Kosher salt and finely ground black pepper
In a small bowl, mash the butter and mustard until well blended. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes. In a small saucepan, bring shallot, wine, and vinegar to a boil over high heat. Boil until reduced by about two-thirds, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and whisk in butter mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time, until all the butter has been incorporated and the sauce has thickened slightly. Remove from heat and whisk in cornichons, cream, and tarragon. Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm.
THREE-PEPPERCORN BEURRE BLANC
SPRINKLE FOODS DESTINED FOR THE GRILL WITH THREE-PEPPERCORN RUB (PAGE 23), then serve this sauce as an accompaniment for a welcome culinary heat.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP (250 ML)
2 teaspoons Szechuan or white peppercorns
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon dried green peppercorns
¾ cup (175 ml) dry white wine
1 tablespoon minced shallot
1 cup (226 g) cold unsalted butter, cubed
¼ teaspoon fine kosher or sea salt
Place all the peppercorns in a small cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat and toast, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Scrape into a mortar and grind with pestle until crushed but still somewhat coarse.
In a small saucepan, bring the crushed peppercorns, wine, and shallot to a boil. Continue to boil until reduced to 2 tablespoons, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and turn the heat to low. Whisk in 2 cubes of butter, then return the pan to the heat. Whisk until the butter has almost melted into the liquid. Continue whisking in the butter, one cube at a time, until all the butter has been emulsified into the sauce and the sauce has thickened. Remove from the heat immediately and whisk in the salt. Keep warm in the top of a double boiler or transfer to a stainless steel bowl and set over a pan of hot, not boiling, water until ready to serve.