CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SPOON DESSERTS - Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin

Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin (2016)

CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SPOON DESSERTS

I’ve always had a penchant for cool, creamy sweets, whether it was cracking the lid on a crème brûlée, savoring a pot of yogurt or devouring a cup of ice cream. Spoonable desserts are as much about texture as they are flavor. Here, alternative grains and flours add their unique qualities to custardy desserts while maintaining the delicate consistencies that we crave.

Tres leches cake made with coconut flour turns light and delicate with an open crumb that soaks in coconut cream spiked with rum and covered in ripe chunks of mango. Clafoutis made with almond, rice and oat flours is especially delicate. Ice cream and roasted berries find an earthy home layered with chestnut brownies, and teff flour adds malty richness to a baked chocolate mousse of sorts studded with bourbon-soaked cherries. Mesquite flour adds a warm, wild flavor to gingersnaps that form a base for banana pudding, cheesecake and ice cream sandwiches. Dive into a trifle loaded with citrus layered over Lillet-soaked chiffon cake and sabayon—it’s like an edible ray of sunshine in the depths of winter.

CHESTNUT BROWNIE ICE CREAM SUNDAES WITH PORT-ROASTED STRAWBERRIES

{CHESTNUT}

The first red strawberries of the season, which show up in late February or early March in Northern California, always bring much excitement after an (admittedly short) winter of brown and orange foods. But what the berries have in color they often lack in sweetness and flavor. In a technique I learned in the pastry kitchen of San Francisco’s Farallon restaurant, roasting these subpar berries with sugar draws out their jammy flavor and makes them meltingly tender. Though if you make this with ripe strawberries at the peak of their season, the compote will be extra delicious. A splash of ruby port gives an extra boost of color, adding a bit of gravitas to the sweet compote.

Roasted berries keep well for up to a week or two, so feel free to double or triple the recipe as you see fit. The cooled berries can be used anywhere you would a chunky compote, i.e., spooned over crackers topped with goat cheese, enjoyed with yogurt and granola for breakfast or, my favorite, layered with ice cream and Chestnut Brownies for a grown-up sundae. The warmth of the chestnut flour plays well with the inky port in the berries, all softened with mild vanilla ice cream. If you don’t have ice cream on hand, try this layered with Whipped Crème Fraîche for brownie berry trifles.

MAKES 2-3 SUNDAES

ROASTED STRAWBERRIES

1 pint (225 g) strawberries, hulled and halved

1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar

3 tbsp (45 ml) ruby port (more as needed)

SUNDAES

3-4 Chestnut Brownies, crumbled or cut into chunks

4-6 scoops Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, slightly softened (or use store-bought)

To make the roasted strawberries, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Spread the prepared berries on a small, rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle with the sugar and port. Roast the berries until collapsed and surrounded by a thick syrup, 35-50 minutes, gently flipping the berries over toward the end of the baking time and adding more port if the berries look dry. While still warm, scrape the berries and their syrup into a heatproof jar or container. Use warm or let cool to room temperature and chill. The berries will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to a week or two.

To make the sundaes, place a layer of brownie crumbles or chunks in a glass. Top with a scoop of ice cream and a spoonful of berries. Repeat with 1-2 more layers and serve immediately.

APRICOT CLAFOUTIS WITH HONEY AND CARDAMOM

{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}

I didn’t fully appreciate apricots until one spring day many years ago, when Jay’s mom inherited property that came with an apricot tree. The small, heirloom-variety fruits were nothing like the underripe, pale, watery specimens found in grocery stores, and the tree was heavy with blushing fruit no bigger than a walnut in its shell. Breaking one open, still warm from the sun and bursting with flavor, I fell instantly in love with apricots.

Sadly for my taste buds, the tree was not long for this world and met its maker the following year. But now I know to look out for the dainty heirloom apricots that crowd the markets each June. Here I pair them with honey and cardamom in a baked custard laced with vanilla that lets the apricots star. Apricots are unique in that they become more tart as they bake, so be sure to use the sweetest, ripest ones you can find. If you don’t have apricots on hand, give this a try with sliced peaches or brandy-soaked cherries in their place.

MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS

3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tsp softened butter for greasing the pan

3 tbsp (45 ml) honey, plus 2-4 tbsp (30-60 ml) for drizzling over the top

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

3 large eggs

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) blanched almond flour

¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup (25 g) oat flour

¾ tsp ground cardamom

¼ tsp fine sea salt

¾ cup (180 ml) whole milk

¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream

1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm apricots (about 12 medium), halved and pitted

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Grease a 10-inch (25-cm) solid tart pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) pie or cake pan with the 1 teaspoon butter and place on a rimmed baking sheet.

In a small pot set over a medium flame, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (42 g) butter and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) honey with the vanilla pod and scrapings until simmering. Remove from the heat and let steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod (you can rinse it, let it dry and save it for making Vanilla Extract.

In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Push the almond, oat and rice flours and the cardamom and salt through a strainer directly into the egg mixture, adding back any bits that get caught in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth, then whisk in the melted butter and vanilla seed mixture. Gradually whisk in the milk and heavy cream. The consistency will be that of a thick crepe batter. (The batter can be made a day ahead and chilled overnight. If it separates, whisk it to recombine.)

Pour the batter into the pan and arrange the apricot halves, cut side up, over the batter. Bake the clafoutis until puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 30-35 minutes. Remove and let cool for at least 20 minutes, then drizzle with the remaining 2-4 tablespoons (30-60 ml) honey. Serve warm or at room temperature. Leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to several days; reheat prior to serving if you like.

LEMON RICOTTA BISCUIT BREAD PUDDING WITH BERRIES AND HONEY

{OAT, MILLET}

I came up with this dessert as a way to use extra ricotta biscuits while testing out the recipe, though now I dare say I often bake a batch of biscuits for the sole purpose of turning them into this pudding. Toasted biscuits soak up a tangy custard laced with crème fraîche, nutmeg, vanilla and lemon. Topped with blistered blueberries and a drizzle of honey, the whole thing tastes a bit like ricotta cheesecake.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1 tsp softened butter, for the pan

4 Lemon Ricotta Biscuits, preferably day old, cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks to equal about 3 cups (200 g)

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar Seeds from ½ vanilla bean (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)

Finely grated zest from ½ large lemon

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

⅛ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

2 large eggs

½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche or heavy cream

1 cup (235 ml) whole milk

1 cup (120 g) fresh or frozen blueberries

2 tbsp (30 ml) honey, for drizzling

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Lightly grease a 10 by 7-inch (25 by 18-cm) oval gratin dish or 8-inch (20-cm) round or square baking pan with the softened butter.

Spread the biscuit pieces on a rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden and dry, 10-15 minutes. Let cool. Spread the toasted biscuits evenly in the buttered baking dish.

Place the sugar in a medium-sized bowl, add the vanilla seeds and lemon zest and rub with your fingers until the sugar is moistened. Whisk in the salt and nutmeg, then whisk in the eggs one at a time until smooth. Whisk in the crème fraîche, then the milk. Pour the custard over the biscuits in the pan and scatter the berries over the top.

Bake the pudding in the center of the oven until puffed and golden all over, 35-45 minutes. There should be no wet liquid if you peek into the center with the tip of a knife. Let the pudding cool to warm or room temperature, at least 20 minutes and up to 1 hour. Serve warm or at room temperature, drizzled with the honey. Leftover pudding can be refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days; rewarm before serving.

CREAMY BAKED GRITS WITH SWEET CORN AND BERRIES

{CORN}

My dad used to make us Cream of Wheat cereal for breakfast every morning, and these baked grits satisfy in a similar way. Creamy, flecked with bits of grain, this turns out a handsome golden porridge from yellow corn polenta and crunchy kernels of sweet corn. Starting the grits on the stove then giving them a long bake in the oven means less hands-on time stirring, stirring, stirring. The top and edges get a bit caramelized and the grits thicken as they cool. These make a cozy early summer breakfast when doused with a splash of cream, a drizzle of honey and fresh berries. And don’t miss the savory variation topped with cheese and a turn of black pepper—it’s also highly addictive.

MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS

2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tsp for greasing the pan

2 large ears sweet corn

2½ cups (590 ml) water

2½ cups (590 ml) whole milk

¾ tsp fine sea salt

1 cup (160 g) uncooked yellow corn grits or polenta

3 tbsp (45 ml) mild honey, plus extra for drizzling

Cream or milk, for serving

2-4 cups (230-460 g) mixed summer berries, for serving

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Rub a 2-quart (2-L) gratin dish, 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet or 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan with the 1 teaspoon butter.

Shuck the corn and remove the silk. Hold a cob upright in a shallow bowl and, with a downward sawing motion, use a small serrated knife to carefully slice off the top half of the kernels. Reverse the knife and use the back of the blade to scrape the remaining milk from the cob and into the bowl with the kernels. Repeat with the remaining cob. You should have about 1½ cups (217 g) kernels and scrapings.

In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the water, milk and salt over a medium-high flame until it comes to a simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent the milk from scorching and taking care not to let the pot boil over. Whisking constantly, slowly sprinkle in the grits, and cook, still whisking, until the grits have swollen into a thin porridge, about 10 minutes, decreasing the heat as needed to maintain a bare simmer. Remove from the heat and whisk in the corn kernels and scrapings, the 3 tablespoons (45 ml) honey and the remaining 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter.

Pour the grits into the greased pan and place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Place in the oven and bake until the edges and top are golden and the grits have thickened, 60-70 minutes. The grits will soufflé up in the oven, but will settle back down when cool. Let the grits cool for 15 minutes—they will thicken considerably—then spoon into bowls and serve warm topped with a splash of cream, a drizzle of honey and a mess of fresh berries. The grits will continue to thicken and firm as they cool. Leftovers can be chilled, cut into squares and seared in a hot, buttery skillet to reheat. They will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

VARIATION: CHEESY SWEET CORN BAKED GRITS

Honey and corn give this dish a nice savory/sweet contrast that’s well suited to breakfast. Omit the honey altogether if you prefer a strictly savory dish.

Omit the berries and cream topping. Make the grits as directed on the stove top, pour them into the greased pan and sprinkle the top all over with 1½ cups (150 g) grated sharp cheddar or other flavorful melting cheese. Top with plenty of coarsely ground black pepper and proceed with the recipe.

BOOZY CHOCOLATE CHERRY TEFF POTS

{TEFF}

These little pots of chocolate cherry goodness fall somewhere between a baked mousse and a flourless cake in taste and texture. Whipping the whole eggs with sugar makes for a fluffy batter that, while rich in flavor from chocolate and teff flour, still tastes feather-light on the palate. Infusing the cherries with bourbon adds another layer of flavor, though you can leave it out if you prefer.

Individual jars make these particularly well suited to dinner parties and potlucks, though you could also bake the batter in a 2-quart (2-L) baking dish, increasing the baking time as needed and spooning the baked pudding into bowls. I like these best when still slightly warm from the oven, but they can be made ahead and rewarmed to order. To play up the boozy factor, pass a bowl of maple bourbon whipped cream at the table; a scoop of vanilla ice cream melting over the top makes a fine accompaniment as well. Teff flour creates a silky smooth base, but another soft flour (buckwheat, chestnut or sweet rice) could easily stand in.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

1¼ lb (560 g) fresh sweet cherries, stemmed, pitted and halved (about 3 cups)

¼ cup (60 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)

4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter

5 oz (145 g) bittersweet chocolate (60-70% cacao mass), coarsely chopped (1 cup)

3 large eggs

½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar

½ tsp fine sea salt

5 tbsp (40 g) teff flour

½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream

1 tsp vanilla extract

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Whipped Cream, Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream or Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Place eight 8-ounce (225-ml) ramekins or canning jars on a rimmed baking sheet.

Combine the prepared cherries and the bourbon in a bowl and let macerate, tossing occasionally, while you prepare the filling, at least 20 minutes and up to several hours.

Meanwhile, combine the butter and chocolate in a small saucepan and place over the lowest possible flame, stirring constantly until the mixture is melted and smooth, about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the eggs, sugar and salt. Whip on high speed until the mixture has tripled in volume, 5-10 minutes. Reduce the speed to low and slowly sprinkle in the teff flour, mixing until just combined. Pour the melted chocolate mixture into the bowl, mixing until just combined, then add the cream and vanilla. Drain the cherries, reserving their bourbony juices, and add the juices to the filling mixture. Remove from the mixer and fold with a flexible silicone spatula to make sure it is homogenous.

Place the soaked cherries in the bottom of the ramekins and pour the filling over the top, dividing it evenly. Bake the pots until puffed and cracked and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with wet crumbs, or until an instant-read thermometer reaches 170°F (75°C), 30-35 minutes.

Let cool for at least 30 minutes. Dust with powdered sugar and serve warm or at room temperature, passing whipped cream at the table. The pots are best when freshly baked but will keep for a few hours at room temperature or up to 3 days refrigerated airtight. Rewarm in a 325°F (165°C) oven until warmed through, 10-15 minutes, before serving.

NOTES

✵ If you don’t have a cherry pitter, these can be made with pitted frozen cherries.

✵ If you or your guests are highly sensitive to gluten, be sure to source a certified GF whiskey such as Queen Jennie, or substitute a GF brandy. Otherwise, I like spicy Bulleit bourbon in these pots.

BLACKBERRY CRISP FROZEN YOGURT

{SWEET RICE, OAT}

This frozen yogurt is just the thing for summer days when you crave a warm, gooey crisp but in a more cooling form. The ultra-creamy Vanilla Bean Frozen Yogurt on makes an easy-peasy base for thick blackberry compote flecked with nubs of cinnamon oat crumble that tastes a bit like berry cheesecake. The crumble stays toothsome for up to a few days and you’ll have enough left over to sprinkle on top of individual scoops, too. Roasting the berries with sugar until jammy releases moisture and keeps them from freezing into icy chunks. If you lack an ice cream maker, never fear; layer the compote and crisp into jars or glasses with some gently sweetened Greek yogurt for blackberry crisp yogurt parfaits.

MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS (1.2 L), 10 SERVINGS

ROASTED BERRIES

2 cups (250 g) blackberries

¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon

1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice, or more as needed

CRISP

¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour

2 tbsp (10 g) oat flour

1 tbsp (5 g) tapioca flour

½ cup (50 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

¼ cup (50 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar

¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

¼ plus ⅛ tsp ground cinnamon

3 tbsp (42 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 recipe Vanilla Bean Frozen Yogurt

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).

To make the roasted berries, combine the blackberries, sugar and lemon zest in a small baking dish. Bake, stirring and mashing the mixture occasionally, until the berries are bubbling thickly, 30-40 minutes. Remove from the oven and stir in the lemon juice, then scrape into a heatproof container and chill until cold, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

To make the crisp, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the sweet rice, oat and tapioca flours with the oats, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon and butter. Mix on low speed, increasing to medium speed, until the butter is worked in and the crisp begins to clump together, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, combine the crisp ingredients in a large bowl and rub the butter with your fingertips until the mixture begins to clump together.) Spread the crumble on a small, rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and bake until golden and fragrant, 15-20 minutes, gently stirring the crisp once or twice to bring the outer edges in, and breaking up any large clumps bigger than the size of a hazelnut. Let the crisp cool completely. Place 1 cup (100 g) in the freezer to layer into the frozen yogurt and reserve the rest for garnish, airtight at room temperature.

Place a large loaf pan in the freezer. Make and churn the frozen yogurt and while it’s still soft, spread one-third of it in the frozen loaf pan. Dollop with one-third of the berries and one-third of the frozen crisp. Repeat with 2 more layers, giving the top layer a swirl with the tip of a knife or chopstick to make it pretty. Chill the frozen yogurt until firm, at least 2 hours and up to several weeks. Let soften for 5-10 minutes, then serve scoops sprinkled with the extra crisp.

The frozen yogurt is best within a day or two, when the crisp is crunchy, but it will keep for up to several weeks. For longer storage, press a piece of parchment paper directly onto the top of the frozen yogurt to discourage ice crystallization and wrap or cover airtight.

VARIATION: BLUEBERRY CRISP FROZEN YOGURT

Omit the blackberries, using 2 cups (250 g) blueberries in their place (as pictured here).

NECTARINE CHEESECAKES IN JARS WITH MESQUITE GINGERSNAP CRUSTS

{SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}

Jars make easy work of cheesecakes for a variety of reasons: 1) They can easily bake in a water bath, which keeps the custard extra creamy; 2) they bake and cool in a fraction of the time a larger cheesecake would, meaning cheesecake in your face sooner; and 3) they are adorable. Here, relatively thin layers of crust and custard leave room on top for a rosette of nectarine slices and a good fruit-to-custard ratio. The rosettes look harder to make than they really are, requiring merely wrapping thin slices of the fruit around themselves in layers. If you’re pressed for time, you can simply toss slices or chunks of the fruit with a bit of lemon juice and honey and pile them on top. The deep, dark flavor of the mesquite gingersnaps sets off the mild custard and summer fruit.

The 6-ounce (180-ml) jars from Weck, measuring 3½ inches (9 cm) in diameter, are an ideal vessel for these custards, leaving ample room for the fruit topping. Alternatively, make 4 larger servings in 8-ounce (235-ml) jars or ramekins.

MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL 6-OUNCE (180-ML) CHEESECAKES

2 cups (110 g) broken-up Mesquite Gingersnaps or store-bought gingersnaps

2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter, melted

8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, at room temperature

¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

1 large egg, at room temperature

1 tsp vanilla extract

¼ cup (60 ml) Crème Fraîche or sour cream

3-4 medium ripe but firm nectarines

Lemon juice, for drizzling over the nectarines

Honey, for drizzling over the nectarines

NOTE: When making cheesecake, always have your cream cheese and eggs at room temperature; otherwise, you may end up with lumpy custard. To warm it up quickly, cut the cream cheese into small cubes, place them in the bowl of your mixer, and set them in a warm spot (such as on top of the oven) while you make the crust. It should be soft within 20-30 minutes.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place six 6-ounce (180-ml) canning jars in a roasting pan.

Process the gingersnaps in a food processer until finely ground. Add the melted butter and pulse until evenly moistened. Divide the crust mixture among the jars and use the back of a spoon or small, silicone spatula to pack it in firmly. Bake the crusts for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool slightly.

Decrease the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C). Bring a kettle of water to a boil.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a handheld mixer or wooden spoon), beat together the softened cream cheese, sugar and salt on medium-low speed until smooth, 2-3 minutes, scraping down the paddle and sides of the bowl a few times. Add the egg and beat until smooth, scrape the paddle and bowl, then beat in the vanilla and crème fraîche. Give the batter a final stir by hand to make sure it’s homogenous. Scrape the batter into a liquid measuring pitcher and divide it evenly among the jars. Rap each jar on the counter a few times to pop any large air bubbles. Pour enough boiling water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the jars, and carefully transfer to the oven.

Bake the cheesecakes until set when you give them a shake, 15-35 minutes (the bake time will vary greatly with the size and shape of the baking vessels). Remove from the oven and use oven mitts to carefully lift the jars out of the water. Let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Serve at room temperature or cover and chill until cold, 1 hour or up to 2 days.

To make the nectarine rosettes, slice the fruit off of the pit. Place a cut side down and use a sharp knife to cut it into very thin slices, a scant ⅛-inch (3-mm) thick. Squeeze a little lemon juice over the slices; this will keep then from oxidizing. Starting with the smallest slices, hold a slice on your work surface and gently roll into a circle with overlapping ends; this will be the innermost “petal.” Wrap slices around the first slice, overlapping as you go. When you can no longer hold the rosette closed on your work surface, use a butter knife or small offset spatula to transfer it to the center of the cheesecake. Continue wrapping slices around the rosette until the jar is full. Repeat with the remaining cheesecakes. Drizzle a bit of honey over the top of each and serve immediately.

PEAR AND POMEGRANATE CLAFOUTIS WITH VANILLA, SAFFRON AND PISTACHIOS

{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}

Similar to an oven pancake or Dutch baby, clafoutis traditionally involves boozy cherries roasted in a crepelike batter until gently puffed. This fall version uses ripe pears and pomegranate arils kissed with vanilla, saffron and pistachios for an Eastern take on the traditional French dessert. Use pears that are ripe and fragrant but firm enough to hold their shape, such as Bartlett or Anjou. The pomegranate seeds keep their shape as they bake, and, along with the pistachios, add a pleasant pop of color as well as texture. Soft pears, tart pomegranate, floral vanilla and exotic saffron all come together to make a beguiling dessert with flavors emerging one after another as you chew. A trio of flours—almond, sweet rice and oat—creates a smooth batter that puffs gently as it cooks, just like the real deal. The batter can be made a day ahead to ease preparations on the day you plan to serve it.

If you prefer, feel free to use all half-and-half in place of the milk and cream in the custard. A little precious saffron goes a long way, so don’t overdo it. Its flavor continues to emerge the longer the baked dessert sits. I wouldn’t hesitate to eat leftovers for breakfast the next morning with a scoop of plain yogurt.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tsp softened butter for greasing the pan

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

A pinch of saffron threads ( tsp), crumbled

3 large eggs

¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 1 tbsp (12 g) for sprinkling over the top

¼ tsp fine sea salt

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) blanched almond flour

¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup (25 g) oat flour

¾ cup (180 ml) whole milk

¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream

3 medium ripe but firm pears (1 lb [450 g]), peeled, cut off the core and sliced lengthwise

¼-inch (6-mm) thick

½ cup (65 g) pomegranate arils

¼ cup (30 g) raw, shelled pistachios, roughly chopped

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Rub the bottom and sides of a 10-inch (25-cm) round solid-bottom tart, pie or cake pan or skillet (or the equivalent) with the 1 teaspoon softened butter.

In a small pot set over a medium flame, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (42 g) butter with the vanilla pod and scrapings and the saffron until simmering. Remove from the heat and let steep for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod (you can rinse it, let it dry and save it for making Vanilla Extract.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, ¼ cup (50 g) sugar and salt. Push the almond, rice and oat flours through a strainer directly into the egg mixture, adding back any bits that get caught in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth, then whisk in the flavored butter and any good stuff hanging out on the bottom of the pan. Gradually whisk in the milk and heavy cream. The consistency will be that of a thick crepe batter. (The batter can be made a day ahead and chilled overnight. If the batter separates, whisk it to recombine.)

Pour the batter into the buttered pan. Arrange the pears over the batter and sprinkle with half of the pomegranate arils and half of the pistachios, reserving the rest for garnish, then sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon (12 g) sugar.

Bake the clafoutis until puffed and golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 25-35 minutes. Remove and let cool for at least 20 minutes. Garnish with the remaining pomegranate arils and pistachios and serve warm or at room temperature. Leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to several days; reheat prior to serving if you like.

NOCINO TIRAMISÙ

{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

In Italy, caffè corretto, espresso fortified with a shot of booze, is a classic hangover cure. My favorite spirit with which to correct my coffee (and occasionally myself) is nocino, a fortified brandy or grappa made by steeping unripe green summer walnuts with spices and sugar. After several months, the tannins in the walnuts turn the spirit a deep chestnut brown, and the spices create a fall-flavored beverage perfect for holiday imbibing. Nocino della Cristina, made in the Napa Valley of California, is a favorite brand, with notes of sweet, bitter and spice melded together into one heavenly digestivo.

Here, I’ve added nocino to the classic Italian treat tiramisù (literally, “pick me up”) usually made with ladyfingers soaked in boozy coffee and smothered in zabaglione and whipped mascarpone. Chiffon cake stands in for the ladyfingers here, and its richer taste makes it fine to omit the zabaglione for a less fussy, and still very boozy, dessert. The result is a spoonable mouthful of moistened cake, a bit of salty tang from the mascarpone and lots of deep, dark nocino and coffee. This is a snap to put together once the cake is made, which, along with the other components, can be done up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated airtight. Additionally, the whole tiramisù can also be assembled up to 1 day ahead; it just gets better as it sits.

MAKES 9 LARGE OR 12 SMALLER SERVINGS

1 Vanilla Chiffon Cake, cooled

COFFEE SYRUP

1¼ cups (300 ml) strong-brewed coffee, hot or warm

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) nocino liqueur

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar

WHIPPED MASCARPONE

8 oz (225 g) mascarpone

1¼ cups (300 ml) heavy cream

Seeds from ½ vanilla bean (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)

¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

2- or 3-oz (56- or 85-g) bar semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, for grating

Prepare the cake as directed and let cool completely.

To make the coffee syrup, stir together the coffee, nocino and sugar until the sugar is dissolved. Set aside.

To make the whipped mascarpone, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a large bowl with a balloon whisk or hand beater), whip together the mascarpone, cream, vanilla seeds, sugar and salt until the mixture holds firm peaks. Cover and chill until needed.

Cut the cake in half, then cut crosswise into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick slices. Lay 1 layer of cake slices cut side up in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square pan or the equivalent, cutting the pieces as needed to make them fit. Drizzle with half of the coffee syrup; it should be enough to moisten the cake through, but not so much that it pools in the bottom. Spread the soaked cake with half of the whipped mascarpone and grate a good layer of chocolate directly over the cream, about 1 ounce (28 g); a small handheld grater works well. Repeat the layering process once more, ending with the grated chocolate. Serve right away with a spoon if you just can’t wait; otherwise, chill the tiramisù for 1-2 hours until set, or up to 1 day, and cut into slices to serve. Tiramisù keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

VARIATION: RUM TIRAMISU

Omit the nocino. Make the coffee syrup with dark or spiced rum (such as The Kraken) and 3 tablespoons (40 g) sugar. Proceed with the recipe.

NOTE: Nocino is traditionally made with grappa or brandy and is usually free from trace amounts of gluten. If you or your tiramisù eaters are highly sensitive, check with individual retailers before imbibing. Alternatively, try the rum variation, above.

PUMPKIN ICE CREAM SANDWICHES WITH MESQUITE GINGER MOLASSES COOKIES

{SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}

San Francisco is known for its wonky seasons, as noted by Mark Twain one summer long ago. We get our summer in the fall, when the rest of the country is cozied up in scarves and mittens sipping hot cider and baking pumpkin spice everything. Meanwhile, I can usually be found sweltering in our apartment, drinking icy cocktails and trying to concoct desserts full of warming spices that still manage to refresh. Enter these ice cream sandwiches. The chewy version of the mesquite gingersnaps on makes a spicy vessel for ice cream that tastes like frozen pumpkin pie, delivering a fall flavor fix inside even when it’s still Indian summer out there.

MAKES ABOUT FOURTEEN 3-INCH (7-CM) SANDWICHES

PUMPKIN ICE CREAM

1 cup (235 ml) whole milk

¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar

4 cinnamon sticks (3 inches [7.5 cm] each), crushed

1 generous tbsp (8 g) coarsely chopped fresh ginger

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

⅛ tsp salt

4 large egg yolks

1¼ cups (300 ml) heavy cream

1 cup (235 ml) roasted squash puree (see Note on or unsweetened canned pumpkin puree

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) packed organic light brown sugar

½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1 recipe Chewy Double-Ginger Molasses Cookies baked and cooled

NOTE: Save the egg whites for making Chestnut Plum Financiers or Vanilla Chiffon Cake.

To make the ice cream, in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat the milk with the sugar, crushed cinnamon sticks, ginger, vanilla pod and seeds and salt, swirling occasionally until the mixture begins to steam and small bubbles appear around the sides of the pot. Turn off the heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes.

When the milk mixture has steeped, place the egg yolks in a medium bowl and place the bowl on a damp towel to stabilize it. Rewarm the milk mixture to steaming, and drizzle the hot dairy into the egg yolks, whisking constantly. This is called “tempering,” and it prevents the yolks from scrambling.

Return the custard to the pot, and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula, scraping the bottom and sides of the pot, just until the mixture begins to “stick” (forms a thin film) to the bottom of the pot, and/or registers 170°F (77°C) on an instant-read thermometer. Immediately remove the pot from the heat, and whisk in the cream, squash puree, brown sugar and nutmeg.

Pour the ice cream base through a fine-mesh strainer, working the mixture through with a silicone spatula. Cover the mixture and chill until very cold, at least 4 hours and up to 2 days.

Process the ice cream in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrape the ice cream into a container, cover and freeze until firm enough to scoop, at least 2 hours and up to several weeks.

To make the sandwiches, let the ice cream soften slightly, 5 minutes or so. Place a small baking sheet in the freezer. Working quickly, place a ¼ cup (60 ml) scoop of ice cream on the flat side of a cookie, and top with a second cookie, flat side down, pressing the cookie to flatten the ice cream slightly. Transfer the sandwich to the pan in the freezer. Continue until you’ve used up all the cookies or all the ice cream. For long-term storage, place the sandwiches in a large storage container or wrap individually. They will keep for up to 1 month. For best results, let soften at room temperature for 5 minutes before devouring.

BANANA BUTTERSCOTCH PUDDING WITH MESQUITE GINGERSNAPS

{SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}

My friend Michelle, who was a rock star recipe tester for this book, turned me on to banana pudding when we baked together one summer at a music camp in Mendocino, California. She made the famous pudding from Magnolia Bakery in New York, which, despite being comprised of boxed cookies, instant vanilla pudding mix and sweetened condensed milk, all layered together with bananas and whipped cream and allowed to chill for several hours until melded, tasted like it had descended from heaven. After a few (hundred) mouthfuls, I developed a Pavlovian response to Michelle, dreaming of pudding each time I saw her.

Here is a marginally healthier version, gussied up with mesquite gingersnaps, homemade butterscotch pudding and a whiff of bourbon. Eat it fresh and the cookies will be crisp, or let it chill for up to 24 hours and the pudding will meld into one deliciously spoonable dessert. The pudding portion is adapted lightly from a Gourmet recipe that’s a snap to make and gets the ratios just right.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

PUDDING

2 tbsp (28 g) unsalted butter, in several pieces

2 tbsp plus 2 tsp (18 g) cornstarch

¼ tsp fine sea salt

½ cup (110 g) packed organic dark brown sugar

1½ cups (355 ml) whole milk

½ cup (120 ml) heavy whipping cream

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)

WHIPPED CREAM

¾ cup (175 ml) heavy whipping cream

2 tsp (8 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1 tbsp (15 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)

½ tsp vanilla extract

FOR FINISHING

2 cups (110 g) Mesquite Gingersnaps crumbled

3-4 large ripe but firm bananas

To make the pudding, have the butter measured out and close at hand. Place a strainer over a medium heatproof bowl or large measuring pitcher and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, whisk together the cornstarch, salt and brown sugar. Add the milk, cream and vanilla bean and scrapings and bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking frequently (you will have to stop whisking to verify that it is boiling; there will be fat bubbles that pop gloopily). While you whisk, be sure to scrape the entire bottom of the pot, including the corners. When you see the gloopy bubbles, reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a simmer and continue cooking and whisking for an additional 1-2 minutes; the pudding should be the texture of a loose yogurt. Turn off the heat and whisk in the butter.

Scrape the pudding through the strainer and into the bowl. Let cool to room temperature, then cover and chill until cool but still spoonable, 30-60 minutes.

To make the whipped cream, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a large bowl with a sturdy wire whisk or hand mixer), whip the cream with the sugar until soft peaks form. Beat in the bourbon and vanilla. Cover and chill until needed.

In six 6- to 8-ounce (175- to 235-ml) glasses, ramekins or jars, crumble in a shallow layer of gingersnaps. Top with a layer of butterscotch pudding. Peel the bananas and cut them into ¼-inch (6-mm) slices. Fan a layer of bananas over the pudding, and top with a layer of whipped cream. Repeat with a second layer of each component, ending with a dollop of whipped cream. Garnish with a crumble of gingersnaps. Serve immediately, or cover the puddings and chill for up to 2 days. The cookies will be crisp at first but will soften up after an hour or two.

NOTE: If you or your dessert eaters are highly sensitive to gluten, be sure to use a GF whiskey here, such as Queen Jennie. Otherwise, I like Bulleit’s bitey bourbon.

CITRUS TRIFLE WITH LILLET SABAYON

{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

Sabayon is a workout. Ten minutes of vigorous whisking is required to produce the frothy custard, a mixture of eggs, sugar and booze cooked over a hot water bath until light and airy. You’ll feel the burn, but hey, no pain no gain, right? Here, the sabayon is chilled and folded together with whipped cream to form layer upon layer of spoonable dessert, which beats the heck out of a recovery shake. Lillet Blanc, a GF wine-based aperitif, has notes of floral honey, ripe apricots and bittersweet citrus. Here, I use it in place of the usual vermouth to make a fluffy sabayon, which captures its beautiful flavors. More Lillet soaks slices of citrus-kissed chiffon cake, and the whole thing gets layered in a glass vessel for a sunny presentation that will gussy up any winter soirée. Spoon trifle into individual dessert glasses or bowls, or construct individual portions in glass mason jars. You’ll likely have a bit of cake left over to enjoy with a cup of tea (or glass of Lillet) while you wait for guests to arrive. You’ll need some of the leftover egg whites from the sabayon for the chiffon cake; save the rest for making financiers. In the summer, try this trifle with berries in place of the citrus.

MAKES 10-12 SERVINGS

SABAYON

8 large egg yolks

½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

¾ cup (180 ml) Lillet Blanc (or other sweet, white wine-based aperitif)

1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream

CITRUS

1 large Cara Cara or navel orange

2 medium pink or ruby grapefruits

2 medium blood oranges

3 medium tangerines

CAKE

One 8-inch (20-cm) round Citrus Chiffon Cake

½ cup (120 ml) Lillet Blanc

Honey, for drizzling

To make the sabayon, prepare an ice bath by combining ice cubes and cool water in a large bowl. Set aside. In a large, stainless steel or copper bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, salt and ¾ cup (180 ml) Lillet. Place the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water and whisk the dickens out of it constantly for 5-10 minutes. The mixture will froth up, then begin to thicken and eventually form a ribbon when you lift the whisk and let the sabayon drip back into the bowl. As you whisk, be sure to swipe every inch of the bowl’s walls to prevent the eggs from scrambling, and adjust the heat under the pot as needed to maintain a gentle simmer. You may want to hold the bowl with one oven-mitted hand and use the other to whisk. When the sabayon reaches the ribbon stage, quickly remove the bowl from the pot, taking care not to burn yourself on the steam, and place the bowl in the ice bath. Stir occasionally to chill the sabayon.

Meanwhile, in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment or in a large bowl with a hand blender, whip the cream until it just holds firm peaks. When the sabayon is chilled, gently fold in the whipped cream until no streaks remain. Cover and chill the sabayon until needed; it will hold for a couple of hours.

To prepare the citrus, cut the outer ends off of the fruits to reveal the flesh. Squeeze the ends into a pitcher to save any precious juice; you’ll use it to moisten the cake. With a cut side down, use a sharp paring knife to cut away the skin and pith, following the curve of the fruit. Slice the fruit crosswise into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick rounds, removing any seeds. Reserve any juices from the citrus and add it to the pitcher with the juice. You should have ¼-½ cup (60-120 ml).

To assemble the trifle, cut the cake into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick slices, and cut each slice into a 2-inch (5-cm) rectangle. Stir together the ½ cup (120 ml) Lillet and reserved citrus juice. In a large glass bowl or other vessel, make a layer of cake pieces, overlapping them slightly. Drizzle with a few tablespoons of the Lillet/juice mixture to moisten the cake slightly. Make a layer of overlapping citrus rounds atop the cake, and top with generous dollops of the sabayon. Repeat the layering process until you’ve filled your vessel, or used up your ingredients, ending with a layer of citrus.

Cover and chill the trifle until ready to serve, preferably 1-6 hours to meld the flavors. When ready to serve, drizzle a little honey over the top of the citrus to give it a pretty shine, and scoop portions into serving bowls. Leftover trifle keeps well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

TRIPLE COCONUT “TRES LECHES” CAKE WITH MANGO AND LIME (DAIRY-FREE)

{SWEET RICE, COCONUT, MILLET}

If you find regular cakes overly dry, tres leches is the cake for you. A sponge cake traditionally soaked with a mixture of sweetened condensed milk, evaporated milk and heavy cream, the luscious Mexican sweet falls somewhere between cake and custard. This dairy-free version is made with gently sweetened coconut milk kissed with rum and vanilla bean. With coconut flour in the cake and toasted coconut shreds on top, it’s more of a tres cocos cake (but who’s counting?). Ripe chunks of mango threaded with lime zest provide a bright counterpoint, though I’ve found this equally lovely when topped with fresh raspberries or sliced strawberries tossed with a bit of sugar. A splash of dark rum adds an extra layer of flavor to the milks, but you can leave it off if need be. Be sure to source one that is gluten-free if you or your cake eaters are extra-sensitive.

MAKES 9 SERVINGS

1 recipe Coconut Flour Chiffon Cake, warm

MILK MIXTURE

3 tbsp (30 g) organic granulated cane sugar

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

2½ cups (590 ml) full-fat, well-shaken canned coconut milk

Big pinch of fine sea salt

3 tbsp (45 ml) dark or spiced rum (gluten-free such as The Kraken)

FOR FINISHING

1 cup (30 g) unsweetened coconut flakes (chips)

2 medium mangos, ripe and fragrant but firm (1½ lb [680 g])

1 lime

NOTE: To make individual round cakes as pictured, bake the cake in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square pan and use a plain biscuit cutter to cut 9 equal rounds out of the cake. Bonus: You’ll have plenty of scraps to nibble on while you wait for the cakes to chill. Alternatively, cut the cake into 9 squares, or bake a round cake and cut it into wedges.

Prepare the cake in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square pan as directed (see Note).

To make the milk mixture, place the sugar in a medium saucepan and add the vanilla pod and scrapings. Use your fingertips to rub the seeds into the sugar to distribute them evenly. Stir in the coconut milk and salt. Bring to a bare simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently, then remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 10-20 minutes to infuse with the vanilla. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve and into a heatproof bowl or jar. Let cool to warm, stirring occasionally to prevent a skin from forming, then stir in the rum.

When the cake has cooled to warm, cut it into 9 rounds or squares, leaving the cake in the pan, and poke it all over with a slender chopstick or skewer. Slowly pour over 1½ cups (355 ml) of the milk mixture, letting it absorb into the cake. Let cool completely at room temperature, adding more of the milk mixture if you want it creamier. Use a small, offset spatula or butter knife to pry up the cake rounds/slices and peel away any scraps (save these for snacking!), placing the cakes on a platter or sheet pan lined with a clean sheet of parchment paper. Cover the cakes loosely with plastic wrap, and chill both the cakes and the extra milk mixture until cold, at least an hour and up to a day or two.

To finish, preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Spread the coconut flakes on a small baking sheet and toast until golden, 5-10 minutes.

To prepare the mango, use a T-shaped vegetable peeler to pare away the peel. Cut the mango off the core, and cut the flesh into a medium dice, placing it in a medium bowl. Repeat with the second mango. Use the vegetable peeler to pare away 3-4 thin strips of lime zest, then cut the strips into whisper-thin strands. Add them to the mango, and add a tablespoon (15 ml) of lime juice, folding it through evenly. Taste, adding more lime or a bit of sugar if you feel the fruit needs it.

Serve the cake rounds in shallow bowls splashed with some of the chilled coconut milk mixture, spoon the mango over and top with a small handful of coconut chips.