Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin (2016)
PIE
Whoever coined the term “easy as pie” was clearly not a baker. Pies are one of the more fussy desserts to get right, not just at home but in professional kitchens, too. With pie, so many things can go wrong. Too much liquid in the crust and it turns tough. Too little and the dough cracks all over the place. Underbake and the crust is sodden and pasty; overbake and the edges burn. Custard fillings can leak, adhering the pie to the pan like superglue, and fruit fillings can turn into puddles of soup when sliced.
And yet when pie goes right, it goes so very right. Flaky pastry shatters against fillings of sliceable custard infused with citrus or spice. Chunks of fruit soften in the heat of the oven, their flavors condensing into something greater than the sum of their parts, all wrapped up in a buttery shell.
I’ve adapted my flaky pie dough to be full of alternative flours and free from gluten and gums. Chia seed is the magic ingredient that takes the place of the usual xanthan gum. Cornstarch adds crunch and tapioca makes the dough more pliable. And a trio of flours—sweet rice, oat and millet (as well as a couple of variations)—make a crust that tastes like a perfectly flaky whole wheat pastry and is nearly as easy to work with. The key to flaky pie dough is to leave the butter in large chunks. When worked into sheets through the classic French technique of fraisage and given a few folds in the manner of puff pastry, the pockets of butter give off steam in the heat of the oven, lifting up the layer of dough above it.
This flaky dough makes a buttery base for ginger peach and strawberry raspberry rhubarb pies, a floral lemon buttermilk custard flecked with vanilla bean, and savory-sweet fig and chèvre bites. Teff creates a malty, warm-tasting base for apple pie or hazelnut frangipane and fresh plums. Buckwheat lends an earthy, charcoal hue to a dough with lots of crunch and flake. Try this around walnuts and pears for individual tarts kissed with salty caramel, or in a dreamy pumpkin pie made with maple syrup and crème fraîche.
FLAKY PIE DOUGH
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
Flaky pie dough is the holy grail of alternative flour baking, with most recipes turning out heavy, crumbly doughs or requiring loads of gums and starches to bake up well. I tested this dough dozens of times to get it just right, with various ingredients and techniques. A trio of flours—sweet rice, millet and oat—work together with cornstarch, tapioca flour and ground chia seed to create a dough that’s sturdy enough to trap air from steaming butter and flake into layers not unlike puff pastry, all without the use of gluten or gums. When done right, the result tastes like whole wheat puff pastry. All who try this recipe or the resulting product agree—it’s downright miraculous.
I find it all too easy to overmix pie dough in a stand mixer or food processor, so I highly recommend making this by hand the first few times, preferably using a sturdy metal pastry blender. You want the butter kept in large chunks—not the small peas generally asked for by other recipes, but ½-inch (1.3-cm) pieces the size of almonds. There will be lots of small pieces of butter, too, but be sure to leave lots of big chunks, as well.
The next key point is that of the liquid. Before you start, fill a ½-cup (120-ml) measure with ice cubes and top it off with water. Stir this together with buttermilk (or vinegar or lemon juice if you prefer) and add the liquid 1 tablespoon (15 ml) at a time, tossing with a flexible silicone spatula until it’s barely moistened and there are no floury bits. A chunk of dough should hold together when you give it a squeeze, but it should not feel wet or sticky. How much liquid you add will vary greatly on a number of different factors, so it must be done by feel rather than a fixed amount. Like any pie dough recipe, it may take a few tries before you get a feel for how much liquid should be added. I do tend to moisten this dough a little bit more than wheat doughs, as this helps it hold together better when you work it.
METHOD
The fraisage method may be new to you; it was to me when I came across it in a baking cookbook several years ago. It’s a quick process that takes only a minute or two, wherein you drag portions of dough across the counter with the heel of your hand. This flattens the butter chunks into sheets, creating many flaky layers and helping to bring the dough together. If this sounds intimidating, you can try a method that I learned in a pastry kitchen: after cutting in the butter, but before working in the liquid, go through the dough and squeeze every butter chunk between your fingers to flatten them out. Work quickly so the butter doesn’t melt. Proceed with the recipe, skipping the fraisage, doing the turns if you like. And if none of this sounds like any fun, just give the dough 10-20 good kneadings in the bowl and go from there; you’ll still have a lovely pie dough, just a bit less tender and flaky than the fully flaky versions. For even flakier dough that is smoother and easier to handle, do the optional turns, detailed below. This is the same technique used to give croissants, Danish and puff pastry their flaky layers.
TIPS FOR ROLLING
This dough is more fragile than wheat dough due to its lack of gluten and gums, so you’ll want to baby it a bit. Having the dough at the proper temperature can help. Too cold, and it will crack. Too warm and it will melt and stick. I usually let my dough rest at room temperature for 5-10 minutes prior to rolling if it has chilled through completely. My preferred rolling situation is to use a countertop dusted lightly with oat flour. Other testers have preferred rolling the dough between two pieces of parchment paper, which keeps the dough from sticking and makes it easier to maneuver. With either rolling method, be sure to dust the counter with just enough oat flour to keep the dough from sticking, and use a pastry brush to sweep excess flour off of the dough so you don’t end up with chunks of flour.
As you begin to roll out the dough, start by pressing down on the pin gently, lifting it up, moving it outward and pressing down, until you’ve pressed the length of the dough. This helps to soften the dough slightly and minimize the cracking that will happen around the edges.
When the edges crack, use your hands and fingers to press them back together. As you work, use a bench scraper to lift the dough, flipping it over if you can do so without it breaking (or just dusting underneath with flour) and continuing. After a minute or two of this when the dough is flatter, begin to use a gentle yet firm rolling motion, rolling in all directions, continuing to move and dust the dough and countertop frequently, brushing away excess flour, until the dough is the correct shape for the recipe. If it cracks or breaks, just use your fingers to stick it back together. If it begins to soften and stick, drag it onto a rimless cookie sheet and chill it for 5-10 minutes.
DO AHEAD
You can make the dough up to 2 days ahead; it actually benefits from a day’s rest, which allows the starches in the flours to absorb moisture and create a sturdier, smoother dough. I often make a double batch of pie dough, use half in a recipe, and freeze the other half airtight until I’m ready to make another pie. You can also wrap a shaped, frozen shell, baked or unbaked, for up to several months.
TIMING
Give yourself at least 3-4 hours to complete a parbaked crust if you plan to do the turns, or 2 hours if you’re skipping this step. Most of this time is inactive. Ideally, make the dough a day ahead and let it rest overnight.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
✵ Pastry blender
✵ Metal or plastic bench scraper
✵ Flexible silicone spatula
✵ Rolling pin
✵ Pastry brush (for sweeping excess flour off of the dough)
✵ Scissors (for trimming dough)
✵ Plastic wrap or a large, zip-top bag
✵ Pie weights and parchment paper (if parbaking)
✵ Parchment paper, for rolling out the dough (optional)
NOTES
✵ Once you get a feel for this dough, it can also be made in a food processor. Place all the dry ingredients in the bowl fitted with a steel blade. Scatter the butter pieces over the top, but don’t pulse just yet. Place the lid on and open up the pouring chute. Gradually pour in the ice water mixture, pulsing all the while and adding liquid in a slow, steady stream. Remove the lid and give the dough a squeeze; it should feel moist but not sticky, and hold together, with lots of pea-sized butter pieces in there.
✵ If you don’t have buttermilk on hand, or don’t care to use it, stir 8 tablespoons (120 ml) of ice water together with 1 teaspoon of apple cider (or white) vinegar or lemon juice to use in place of the ice water/buttermilk mixture.
MAKES ONE STANDARD 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE SHELL FOR A SINGLE-CRUST PIE
¼ cup (60 ml) ice water
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour (Mochiko)
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) GF oat flour, plus more for dusting
¼ cup (35 g) millet flour
¼ cup (30 g) cornstarch
2 tbsp (13 g) tapioca flour
2½ tbsp (15 g) finely ground chia seed (preferably white)
1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter (preferably European style), sliced ¼-inch (6-mm) thick
¼ cup (60 ml) cold buttermilk
Make the ice water by filling a ½-cup (120-ml) measure with ice and topping it off with cool water.
In a large bowl, combine the rice, oat and millet flours with the cornstarch, tapioca flour, ground chia seed, sugar and salt. Scatter the butter pieces over the top, and work in with a pastry blender or your fingertips until the mixture resembles gravel, with lots of butter chunks the size of large almonds and some smaller bits.
Stir together ¼ cup (60 ml) of the ice water with the buttermilk, and drizzle the mixture into the flour mixture 1 tablespoon (15 ml) at a time, tossing the dough with a flexible silicone spatula to moisten evenly. Add just enough water for the dough to hold together when you give it a squeeze, and add it directly to the dry floury bits that like to hang out on the bottom of the bowl; you may not need all the liquid, or you may need to add more ice water.
OPTION 1: KNEAD
Knead the dough in the bowl 10-20 times to bring it together.
OPTION 2 (RECOMMENDED): FRAISAGE
Skip the kneading option, above. Working quickly, dump the dough out onto the counter. Grab a handful of dough, place it on the counter, put the heel of your hand on the dough and push it away from you, scraping it across the surface several inches. Use a bench scraper to scrape the dough up off the counter and place it back in the bowl. This is called fraisage. Repeat with the remaining dough. It should only take a minute or two to complete this process.
With either method, gather the dough up into a ball, wrap it loosely in plastic wrap and flatten it into a disk. Chill the dough until firm, 30-60 minutes.
OPTION 3: TURN
This classic technique is used to give puff pastry and croissant dough their layers. Here, it also helps to make a smoother, more pliable dough that will be easier to manipulate. Dust your surface lightly with oat flour and use a rolling pin to roll the dough out into a rough rectangle that is about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick, lifting and turning the dough, dusting underneath the dough to keep it from sticking, flipping it over and sweeping away excess flour with a pastry brush. (Alternatively, roll the dough between two pieces of parchment paper dusted with oat flour to prevent sticking.) When the dough is rolled out, fold it into thirds, as though folding a letter, then fold it in thirds again the other way. Gently press to flatten it slightly, re-wrap and chill for 30-60 more minutes.
OPTION 4: ANOTHER TURN
For the absolute flakiest dough, repeat the turning step one more time, making a second turn. This will only be effective if you started out with those big chunks of butter.
You’re done! Chill the dough until cold, at least 30-60 minutes and up to 2 days. Alternatively, slip the dough into a freezer bag and freeze for up to 2 months. Refer to individual recipes for how to use your beautiful masterpiece. If shaping the dough in a pie pan, continue with the instructions below.
SHAPE THE CRUST
Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap and place on a lightly floured surface. If it is very cold, let it soften for 5-10 minutes until malleable; this will minimize cracking. Roll out the dough into a 12-inch (30-cm) round, dusting the dough lightly with oat flour as needed, rotating and flipping it to prevent it from sticking. (Alternatively, roll the dough between two pieces of parchment paper dusted with oat flour to prevent sticking.) Ease the dough into a 9-inch (23-cm) glass pie plate, fit it into the corners, and trim it to a 1-inch (2.5-cm) overhang. (Save the scraps to patch any tears in the dough post-parbaking.) Fold the overhang of the crust under itself, and flute the crust by pressing it between the thumb of one hand and the index finger and thumb of the other hand. Prick the bottom of the crust all over with the tines of a fork. Chill the crust for 30 minutes, or until firm.
BAKE OR PARBAKE
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). Remove all other racks from the oven. If you have a baking stone, put it on the rack.
Place the chilled crust on a rimmed baking sheet. Line it with a piece of parchment paper, and fill to the top with pie weights, dry beans or clean pennies, pressing the weights into the sides and corners of the crust.
Bake the crust for 15-30 minutes, until the dough holds its shape when you lift off the parchment. Carefully remove the weights and parchment and bake until the bottom is dry and lightly golden, about 8-12 minutes longer (for a parbaked crust) or until deeply golden, 15-20 minutes (for a fully baked crust). Use the saved scraps of dough to patch any holes, cracks, or tears in the dough, baking for a few more minutes post-patching.
VARIATIONS
BUCKWHEAT PIE DOUGH
Omit the millet flour, substituting ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (45 g) buckwheat flour and decreasing the oat flour to ¼ cup (25 g).
TEFF PIE DOUGH
Omit the millet flour, substituting ¼ cup (35 g) teff flour.
COCONUT OIL PIE DOUGH (VEGAN)
This dough is more fragile to work with, but doing the fraisage and turns helps make it more cohesive. Since coconut oil is harder than butter when chilled, the dough is easier to handle when slightly warmer than refrigerator temperature. Because the dough is more fragile, it’s easier to use in hand pies and galettes that need less manipulation, as opposed to larger pies. The flavor of the coconut oil doesn’t carry through; this pie dough tastes just like any other fabulously flaky whole-grain pie dough.
Omit the butter. Scoop 8 tablespoons (105 g) of firm, room-temperature (or slightly chilled) unrefined, extra-virgin coconut oil over the flour mixture in tablespoon-sized blobs. Chill the whole bowl until the coconut oil is firm, 20 minutes or longer. Work in the oil as you would the butter, but break it up into finer particles the size of peas. Omit the buttermilk, stirring together 8 tablespoons (120 ml) ice water with 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and work in the ice water mixture as per usual. Proceed with the recipe.
PIE DOUGH FOR CUTOUT PIES AND PANDOWDIES
Place the dry ingredients in a large bowl.
Add the sliced butter.
Use a pastry blender to work the butter …
… into chunks the size of almonds and peas.
Gradually add the liquid by the tablespoon (15 ml),
tossing the dough to distribute evenly.
Fraisage by scraping portions of dough …
… across the counter to form thin sheets.
Alternatively, make the dough in a food processor.
Chill the dough until cold.
Dust with flour to prevent sticking.
Slowly press and roll into an even round.
Fold the dough in thirds …
… and in thirds again for extra layers.
Shape the crust in the pan, tucking the edges under.
Use your thumb and forefingers …
… to form a fluted edge.
Pierce, chill again and bake!
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
This recipe is one and a half times the Flaky Pie Dough recipe on. I just did the math for you—you’re welcome.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 BOTTOM CRUST AND A CUTOUT UPPER CRUST FOR A 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, OR 2 PANDOWDIES
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) ice water
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) well-shaken buttermilk
¾ cup (110 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) millet flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) cornstarch
3 tbsp (25 g) tapioca flour
4 tbsp (25 g) finely ground white chia seed
1½ tbsp (20 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¾ tsp fine sea salt
12 tbsp (170 g) cold, unsalted butter (preferably European style such as Straus Family Creamery), sliced ¼-inch (6-mm) thick
Follow the directions for the Flaky Pie Dough, preferably with the fraisage and 1-2 turns.
If making a cutout double-crust pie, divide the finished dough into one-third and two-third portions, wrap each in plastic wrap, flatten into disks and chill until firm, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. Using the larger portion of dough, follow the instructions for shaping a bottom crust on. Use the smaller portion for the top cutout crust (see individual recipes for method).
For pandowdies, divide the dough in half, wrap each in plastic wrap and chill.
STRAWBERRY RASPBERRY RHUBARB CUTOUT PIE
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
Raspberries make a bright addition to the classic combination of strawberries and rhubarb. Along with a bit of lemon, the three turn out a crimson filling that is downright refreshing, studded with fat chunks of red fruit. Topping the pie with rounds of dough creates a pretty top that is far easier to execute than a lattice or double crust, and it keeps the fruit-to-crust ratio in check while allowing plenty of steam to escape from the fruit. I learned this topping method from Laura Kasavan, who writes the beautiful dessert blog Tutti Dolci.
This well-balanced pie needs no accompaniment, though a scoop of Vanilla Bean, Cardamom or Fresh Ginger Ice Cream (here and here) is always welcome.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 recipe Pie Dough for Cutout Pies GF oat flour, for dusting
FILLING
2½ cups (270 g) rhubarb trimmed and sliced ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick
2 cups (230 g) hulled and quartered strawberries
2 cups (230 g) raspberries Finely grated zest from 1 medium-sized lemon (preferably Meyer)
1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup (30 g) cornstarch
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
FOR FINISHING
1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream
1 tbsp (15 g) coarse sugar (demerara or turbinado)
For the crust, prepare and chill the pie dough as directed.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven, top with a baking stone if you’ve got one and preheat to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper for easy cleanup.
Make a bottom crust with the larger round of pie dough. Chill the crust until firm, 30 minutes (or wrap and chill up to 1 day). On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the smaller round of dough to a 9-inch (23-cm) round about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Use a fluted biscuit cutter (or small glass) to cut 1½- and/or 2-inch (3.8- and/or 5-cm) rounds close together. Stack the rounds on a plate and chill until firm, 20 minutes. Optionally, press the dough scraps together, wrap and chill until firm, and repeat the rolling/cutting process once more.
To make the filling, place the prepared rhubarb, strawberries and raspberries in a large bowl and add the lemon zest and juice, sugar, cornstarch and salt. Use a flexible silicone spatula to stir gently to combine, and let sit for a few minutes to draw out the juices a bit.
Spoon the fruit and juices into the chilled crust, smoothing it flat. Place the chilled dough rounds over the top of the fruit, overlapping them slightly and leaving lots of windows for the steam to escape. To finish, brush the rounds with the cream or milk and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.
Place the pie on the lined baking sheet and place in the oven on the baking stone. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes, then decrease the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) and continue baking until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 35-50 more minutes. Let the pie cool completely to set the fruit, at least 2 hours, then cut into wedges and serve at room temperature. The pie is best shortly after baking and will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day, or refrigerated for up to 3 days.
NOTE: When preparing rhubarb, be sure to trim away the leaves completely, as they are toxic.
BLUEBERRY HAND PIES {VEGAN}
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
It’s hard to go wrong with fresh blueberries. Here, they’re given minimal sweetening, tossed with lemon and nutmeg, and tucked into flaky coconut-oil dough. The clean taste of coconut lets the deep purple berries star, baking into tender little nubs within crust that shatters and flakes. These not-too-sweet treats work equally well for breakfast with a cup of tea or to travel on a picnic. If you want them a bit sweeter, give them a drizzle of vanilla bean glaze and they will remind you of really classy Pop-Tarts.
Placing the rounds of dough on individual pieces of parchment paper helps shape the hand pies, so be sure to have some handy when making this recipe. Fresh berries work better here, as frozen ones will cause the dough to harden, making it crack as you fold it around the filling.
MAKES 6 INDIVIDUAL HAND PIES
CRUST
1 recipe Coconut Oil Pie Dough, prepared with the fraisage and 1-2 turns, chilled GF oat flour, for dusting
FILLING
1½ cups (190 g) blueberries (preferably fresh, otherwise frozen and not defrosted)
3 tbsp (40 g) organic granulated cane sugar Finely grated zest from 1 small lemon
2 tsp (10 ml) lemon juice
1 tsp cornstarch
¼ tsp fine sea salt
⅛ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
FOR FINISHING
1-2 tbsp (30 ml) plant milk, for brushing the dough
Organic granulated cane sugar, for sprinkling
For the crust, prepare and chill the pie dough as directed.
To make the filling, in a medium bowl, toss together the blueberries, sugar, lemon zest and juice, cornstarch, salt and nutmeg to combine. Set aside.
Divide the dough into 6 equal portions, letting it stand at cool room temperature for 5-10 minutes to soften slightly. On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour (or between 2 squares of parchment paper dusted with oat flour), roll each portion of dough out into a 5- to 6-inch (13- to 15-cm) round about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick, turning the dough and dusting with more oat flour to prevent sticking. Trim each round to make an even circle (a pizza wheel works well here), and place on a 6-inch (15-cm) square of parchment. If the rounds have become soft or sticky, chill them for about 10 minutes (this will depend on the temperature of your kitchen).
Lay the dough rounds, still on their pieces of parchment, on your work surface. Divide the blueberries among the rounds, mounding them toward the center and a little off to one side. Use the parchment to help fold the dough over itself, making a half-moon shape. If the dough cracks, use your fingers to squish it back together. Repeat with the remaining pies. Use the tines of a fork to crimp the edges closed and seal the pies, and trim away excess dough from the edges. Lay the pies on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and chill until firm, 20 minutes.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C).
To finish, remove the pies from the refrigerator, brush with the milk and sprinkle with the sugar. Use the tip of a paring knife to cut a few slits in the top of each pie to allow the steam to escape.
Bake the pies until the dough is golden and the fruit is bubbling, 22-30 minutes. Remove from the oven, and, while hot, use a thin metal spatula to remove the pies from their parchment and onto a cooling rack (otherwise, the caramelized juices will cause them to stick). Let cool to warm, then enjoy warm or at room temperature. They are best the day of baking when the crust is crisp, but will keep for up to 2 days airtight at room temperature.
GINGER PEACH CUTOUT PIE
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
Peach pie always seems like a big production. There are hundreds of different recipes out there and everyone’s got an opinion on flavorings, thickeners, lattice vs. double crusts, white vs. yellow peaches, to peel or not to peel … and that doesn’t even touch on the hotly debated topic of shortening vs. butter in the crust. It really needn’t be so difficult. I threw this one together with an extra batch of pie dough left over from another project, some white and yellow peaches that were cluttering my counter, and a smattering of crystallized ginger hiding in my cupboard. The whole project was simply satisfying. Bring this to a party and watch them treat you like the domestic god or goddess you are.
Half a cup of ginger will thrill true ginger fiends like myself; take it down to ¼ or ⅓ cup (40 or 60 g) if you prefer just a hint. Use whatever shade of peach (or nectarine) you have on hand. I find no need to peel most peaches; just give them a rinse and rub off some of the fuzz with a clean kitchen towel. Cornstarch is my thickener of choice, as it leaves behind not a trace of flavor or texture, and I’ll give another shout-out to the cutout top crust, which is both stupid easy to make and oh so pretty to look at. Serve slices of this pie with any of the ice creams here and here, or with a plume of softly Whipped Cream or Whipped Crème Fraîche.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 recipe Pie Dough for Cutout Pies GF oat flour, for dusting
FILLING
6-7 medium peaches (2¼ lb [1 kg]), ripe but firm (about 6½ cups [900 g], sliced)
Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon
1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 tbsp (17 g) cornstarch
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
⅓-½ cup (60-90 g) finely chopped crystallized ginger
FOR FINISHING
1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream
1 tbsp (15 g) coarse sugar (demerara or turbinado)
For the crust, prepare and chill the pie dough as directed.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven, top with a baking stone if you’ve got one and preheat to 425°F (220°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper for easy cleanup.
Make a bottom crust with the larger round of pie dough. Chill the crust until firm, 30 minutes (or wrap and chill for up to 1 day). On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the smaller round of dough to a 9-inch (23-cm) round about ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Use a fluted biscuit cutter (or small glass) to cut 1½- and/or 2-inch (3.8- and/or 5-cm) rounds close together. Stack the rounds on a plate and chill until firm, 20 minutes. Optionally, press the dough scraps together, wrap and chill until firm, and repeat the rolling/cutting process once more.
To make the filling, halve the peaches and remove the pits, then cut each half into 8 wedges; you should have about 6½ cups (900 g). Place the peaches in a large bowl and add the lemon zest and juice, sugar, cornstarch, salt and ginger. Toss gently to combine and let sit for a few minutes to draw out the juices a bit.
Spoon the fruit and juices into the chilled crust, smoothing it flat. Place the chilled dough rounds over the top of the fruit, leaving lots of windows for steam to escape. To finish, brush the rounds with the milk and sprinkle with the coarse sugar.
Place the pie on the lined baking sheet and place in the oven on the baking stone. Bake at 425°F (220°C) for 15 minutes, then decrease the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) and continue baking until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 35-50 more minutes. Let the pie cool completely to set the fruit, at least 2 hours, then cut into wedges and serve at room temperature. The pie is best the day of baking and will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day or refrigerated for up to 3 days.
RUSTIC PLUM, TEFF AND HAZELNUT TART
{SWEET RICE, OAT, TEFF}
Plums’ high water content makes them a challenge in the kitchen. Here, a hazelnut frangipane absorbs some of their liquid, puffing up around the slices and melding with a flaky teff flour pastry. The malty flavor of the teff pairs well with the toasted hazelnuts and tart, juicy plums, all drizzled with a touch of floral honey. The sugared edges become wildly crisp in the oven and make an addictive contrast to the tender middles. Do be sure to use parchment paper for rolling out the dough; it’s difficult to transfer the large piece of dough onto the baking sheet without it. And give the tart a thorough bake on the lowest oven rack, letting the frangipane turn a deep golden all over; otherwise, the bottom crust will be soggy from those pesky plums.
MAKES 1 LARGE FREE-FORM TART, 12-15 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 recipe Teff Pie Dough, chilled Teff flour, for dusting
FRANGIPANE AND PLUMS
1 cup (120 g) raw hazelnuts
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup (40 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ tsp fine sea salt
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter, softened but cool
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm plums (about
7 medium)
FOR FINISHING
1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or heavy cream, for brushing the dough
2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar, for sprinkling
2-4 tbsp (30-60 ml) honey, for drizzling
For the crust, make the dough, completing the fraisage and all the optional folds; this will make puff pastry-like layers. Chill the dough until cold as instructed.
To make the frangipane, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Spread the hazelnuts on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast until the skins are loose, 10-12 minutes. Let cool completely, then rub off as much of the skins as you easily can. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the hazelnuts, sugar, rice flour and salt. Process until the nuts are very finely ground, 30-60 seconds. Add the softened butter, egg and vanilla extract and process to a paste, 30 seconds. Don’t overprocess or the mixture could break and become greasy and separated.
Let the dough stand at room temperature until slightly softened, 5 minutes in a warm kitchen or 15 minutes in a cool kitchen. Sandwich the dough between 2 large pieces of parchment paper dusted lightly with teff flour, and gently begin pressing it flat, then roll it into a 12 by 16-inch (30 by 40-cm) rectangle. As you work, periodically peel back the top piece of parchment, dust the dough lightly with flour, replace the parchment, grasp the dough sandwich with both hands and flip the whole thing over. Peel off the new top piece of parchment, dust with flour and continue to roll. If the dough is uneven, cut off the long bits and press them onto the short bits, rolling to adhere. When your rectangle measures 12 by 16 inches (30 by 40 cm), trim the sides so that they’re even and straight. If your dough becomes soft or sticky at any point, slip it onto a baking sheet, parchment and all, and chill it for 10-20 minutes to firm the butter.
Slide the dough onto a sheet pan, still on the parchment. Use a small offset spatula to gently spread the hazelnut paste over the dough in an even layer, leaving a 1-inch (2.5-cm) border all the way around. Gently fold over the edges to make a generous 1-inch (2.5-cm) crust. Chill the dough until firm, 30 minutes.
Prepare the plums. If they cling to the pit, cut the flesh off the pit in large pieces; otherwise, cut the plums into quarters and discard the pits. Slice the plums thinly, discarding the ends that are mostly skin. Keeping the plum slices together, fan them atop the chilled frangipane in 12-15 clumps; this makes the finished tart easier to cut. You may not need all of the plums, and it’s better to err on the side of too little, as excess fruit will lead to a soggy crust. To finish, brush the edges of the tart with the milk. Sprinkle the sugar all over the plums and crust.
Bake the tart until the hazelnut paste is puffed and deeply bronzed and the bottom of the tart is crisp, 40-50 minutes, rotating the tart toward the end of the baking time. The crust will look dark because of the teff flour, but take care not to underbake it or the bottom will be soggy. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 30 minutes and up to several hours. Just before serving, drizzle all over with the honey and cut into 12-15 rectangles.
FIG AND CHÈVRE BITES WITH HONEY AND THYME
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
When I traveled to France’s très romantique Loire Valley many years ago, I hoped to meet the man of my dreams. Instead, I met the cheese of my dreams: a log of goat cheese rolled in ash and aged until it formed a creamy, Brie-like exterior and dense, crumbly middle. I gladly eschewed dessert in favor of the cheese carts wheeled to the postprandial table. These little bites of flaky pastry topped with aged goat cheese, fresh figs and a sprinkle of honey, thyme and black pepper bring the cheese course into dessert—though they work equally well as a starter when accompanied by a glass of bubbly and will make you the star of any potluck. A bite of flaky crust against funky cheese, gooey fig and fresh thyme tastes like love. These are best served warm from the oven, but the dough rounds can be prepared, topped and chilled until serving time, up to one day ahead. That said, we brought cold, two-day-old leftovers to a party and they disappeared in seconds.
Look for a French-style aged goat cheese that looks a little bit like Brie on the outside, sometimes called a crottin and sometimes rolled in ash before being aged (such as Delice de Poitou). I’ve also baked these bites with several different types of Northern Californian cheeses and all work well: Cypress Grove’s Humboldt Fog, Cowgirl Creamery’s Mt. Tam and Laura Chenel’s Goat Brie and Ash-Rinded Buchette. If aged chèvre isn’t the cheese of your dreams, feel free to use a fresh chèvre or goat Brie instead. Do look for a cheese that isn’t too soft, lest it run all over the place in the oven. Similarly, look for figs that are ripe but firm, such as Black Missions.
MAKES 14-16 (3-INCH [8-CM]) BITES
CRUST
1 batch Flaky Pie Dough GF oat flour, for dusting
FILLING
8 large figs, such as Black Mission (ripe but firm)
6 oz (175 g) aged chèvre (or other cheese, see headnote), cut into 14-16 slices
1 tbsp (3 g) fresh thyme leaves
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon
Cracked black pepper
1-2 tbsp (15-30 ml) honey
For the crust, prepare the pie dough with the fraisage and 1-2 turns and chill as directed. If the pie dough is very firm, let it soften at room temperature until malleable, about 5 minutes. On a work surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the chilled dough into a rough rectangle that measures ⅜-inch (1-cm) thick, rotating the dough frequently, dusting it with just enough flour to keep it from sticking and sweeping off excess flour with a pastry brush. When the dough has been rolled out, cut out 3-inch (7-cm) rounds with a fluted biscuit cutter or the top of a glass, cutting the rounds as close together as possible. (Note: If your figs are smaller, cut out smaller rounds of dough.) Stack the dough rounds on a plate, cover, and chill until firm, 30 minutes or up to 1 day. Optionally, press the dough scraps together, and repeat the chilling/rolling/cutting process once more.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
For the filling, cut the stems off the figs and slice each one in half lengthwise. Place the chilled dough rounds 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) apart on the prepared baking sheet. Top each round with a slice of chèvre and a fig half placed cut side up, pressing the figs gently into the chèvre to keep them in place.
Bake the bites until the dough is golden, 22-27 minutes. Remove from the oven and place on a serving platter, allowing them to cool for a few minutes. Sprinkle with the thyme leaves, salt, pepper, and a drizzle of honey.
The bites are best served when still warm from the oven, but they will keep at room temperature for up to several hours or refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat before serving for best results.
MAPLE TEFF APPLE PIE WITH WALNUT CRUMBLE
{SWEET RICE, OAT, TEFF}
This was the first pie I baked with my flaky gluten-free pie dough, and I knew I’d finally struck gold when I literally forgot that the pie was gluten-free. The juicy apple filling is kissed with maple syrup and lemon, which keep the apples tasting bright and earthy. A maple sugar and teff crumb topping makes an attractive lid without the fuss of a top crust, and the slight bitterness of walnuts adds dimension (though pecans can take their place, too). Teff flour in the crust and crumble adds notes of caramel (or try the more vanilla version of this pie made with all oat flour, below).
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 recipe Teff Pie Dough
Teff flour, for dusting
FILLING
2¼ lb (1 kg) tart, firm baking apples, such as Granny Smith (6-8 medium apples)
½ cup (120 ml) maple syrup (preferably grade B)
Finely grated zest from ½ large lemon
2 tbsp (30 ml) strained lemon juice
1 tbsp (6 g) cornstarch
½ tsp ground cinnamon
⅛ tsp fine sea salt
CRUMBLE
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (35 g) GF oat flour
2 tbsp (15 g) teff flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) maple sugar (or packed organic light brown sugar)
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
¼ tsp fine sea salt
5 tbsp (70 g) cold, unsalted butter
¾ cup (80 g) raw walnut halves
Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream for serving
For the crust, prepare the dough, shape into a 9-inch (23-cm) crust as directed, and chill the unbaked crust until firm, at least 30 minutes.
For the filling, peel the apples, cut them off the core and slice them a scant ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. You should have 6 cups (900 g) total. Place the apple slices in a large bowl and gently toss with the maple syrup, lemon zest and juice, cornstarch, cinnamon and salt. Let sit while you prepare the crumble, 10-20 minutes, tossing a few times.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the lower third of the oven, place a baking stone on the rack if you have one and preheat to 350°F (175°C). If there are any holes in the pie crust, patch them with leftover dough scraps.
To make the crumble, in the bowl of a food processor, combine the oat and teff flours, maple sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Pulse once or twice to combine, then pulse in the butter until the mixture looks like coarse meal, with no large butter chunks remaining. Add the walnuts and pulse several more times until the nuts are broken down a bit and the mixture begins to clump together; don’t overmix. Cover and chill if not using right away.
Pour the apples and their liquid into the unbaked crust, and pack the apples snugly. Crumble the topping evenly over the apples, breaking it into some hazelnut-sized chunks and letting the rest be loose. Bake the pie until the top is golden and the juices are bubbling up thickly, 60-75 minutes. The topping and crust will look dark from the teff flour, but if it is getting too dark, reduce the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C). Let the pie cool most of the way, at least 2 and up to 8 hours to thicken the juices.
VARIATIONS
MAPLE OAT APPLE PIE WITH WALNUT CRUMBLE
For a more kid-friendly version of this pie, use the Flaky Pie Dough in place of the teff crust, and make the topping with ½ cup (55 g) oat flour instead of the oat/teff blend.
MAPLE BOURBON APPLE PIE WITH WALNUT CRUMBLE
I like this grown-up version best with the milder, all-oat variation, above. Reduce the maple syrup to ⅓ cup (85 ml) and add ¼ cup (60 ml) GF bourbon to the apple mixture. Increase the cornstarch to 2 tablespoons (11 g) to help absorb the extra moisture.
BUCKWHEAT PEAR GALETTES WITH WALNUTS AND SALTY CARAMEL
{SWEET RICE, BUCKWHEAT, OAT}
Biting into one of these little tarts when warm from the oven is sheer ecstasy. Crisp crust shatters against tender pears, gooey caramel drips everywhere and nubs of walnuts add their roasty flavor to the mix. The crust sings with the bold flavor of buckwheat, which always reminds me of a blend of hazelnuts and cinnamon, with earthy notes that smack of coffee or chocolate. Here, the dark crust plays dramatically against the white flesh of ripe pears. Toasted walnuts absorb the pears’ juices and keep the bottom crust crisp. I think my friend Erika, who tested this recipe, said it best: “I feel like I’m eating a fancy-ass pastry from Tartine, only I MADE IT.”
MAKES EIGHT 3½-INCH (9-CM) GALETTES
CRUST
1 recipe Buckwheat Pie Dough
Buckwheat flour, for dusting
FILLING
½ cup (55 g) raw walnut halves
4 medium ripe but firm pears, such as Bartlett (about 1½ lb [680 g])
1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice
2 tbsp (30 ml) cream or milk
3 tbsp (35 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ cup (120 ml) Salty Caramel (any variation, at room temperature or warm enough to drizzle
Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, for sprinkling (optional)
NOTE: Melon ballers aren’t just for making fussy, 1970s-inspired fruit salads; they also make a handy tool for coring pears. Halve a pear lengthwise, then use the melon baller to scoop away the stem, seeds and blossom.
For the crust, prepare the buckwheat pie dough, preferably with the fraisage and 1-2 turns, and chill as directed. Place the chilled dough on a surface dusted lightly with buckwheat flour. Use a sharp chef’s knife to divide the dough into 8 equal portions, and place 7 of the portions back in the refrigerator to keep cool. Use a rolling pin to roll out the first portion of dough into a 6-inch (15-cm) round a scant ⅛-inch (3-mm) thick, flipping and dusting the dough as you go to prevent it from sticking and sweeping away excess flour. Trim the edges to make an even round. Place the dough round on a plate and chill. Repeat with the remaining dough portions, stacking them on the plate and dusting with a bit of flour to prevent sticking. Cover and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Spread the walnuts on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast on the upper rack until golden and fragrant, 8-10 minutes. Let cool, then chop fairly finely. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C).
Peel the pears, halve them lengthwise, and remove their cores, stems and blossoms. Place a half cut side down and, keeping the slices together, slice lengthwise ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Repeat with the remaining pears. Drizzle the pear halves with the lemon juice to keep them from oxidizing while you work; this also adds a bit of brightness to the finished galettes.
Divide the dough rounds between 2 rimmed baking sheets lined with parchment paper for easy cleanup. Divide the chopped walnuts among the rounds, mounding them in the center. Keeping the slices together, use a small knife or offset spatula to transfer a pear half to the top of a tart, placing it over the nuts and fanning out the slices a bit. Gently fold up the dough around the fanned pear slices to create a 1-inch (2.5-cm) lip, creasing and pleating the dough as you go. If it cracks, don’t worry—just press it back together. Use your palm to gently flatten down the galette slightly. If the dough has softened, place the galettes back in the refrigerator and chill until firm. Brush the dough lightly with the cream and sprinkle the pears and dough evenly with the sugar.
Bake the galettes until the pear juices bubble furiously and the dough is golden (you will have to look closely, as the dough will be dark and crusted in sugar), 30-40 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and top to bottom for even browning after the first 20 minutes.
Remove the galettes from the oven and let cool for at least 15 minutes or up to several hours. To serve, drizzle all over with the caramel sauce and top with a few flecks of flaky salt if desired. The galettes are best the day of baking but will keep at room temperature for 1 day or refrigerated airtight for up to 2 days.
PUMPKIN PIE WITH A BUCKWHEAT CRUST
{SWEET RICE, BUCKWHEAT, OAT}
My sweetie and I are obsessed with pumpkin pie, and would gladly eat it every day, all year round. And yet, I can understand where the world’s pumpkin pie haters are coming from. Canned pumpkin can have a metallic, vegetal taste. The filling can be curdled and watery, or overly thick and starchy, plagued by too many heavy spices. To mitigate these pitfalls, I’ve taken a few tips from Cook’s Illustrated, French patisserie and my own kitchen. First, I take the time to roast my own squash, which makes for a bright, fresh-tasting filling. Since most pumpkin puree actually comes from a squash in the butternut family, butternut is my go-to (though kabocha, carnival and red kuri squash also make excellent pie). Next, I add a bit of flour to the custard, a traditional French technique that helps absorb excess moisture. Finally, I give the squash puree a brief cook on the stove with the spices and sweeteners; this evaporates excess moisture and melds the flavors together. Maple syrup, fresh ginger and nutmeg and crème fraîche all make the filling sparkle, and all that pumpkin spice deliciousness is served up in a super flaky buckwheat crust that stays crisp longer than you’d guess.
For this pie, as for all custard-based pies and tarts, keep an eye on your oven temperature and be careful not to overbake the pie, lest the filling become grainy and watery. Watch the pie for visual cues of doneness, and be sure to allow 2 to 3 hours post-baking for cooling the pie; it will still be cooking from residual heat.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 recipe Buckwheat Pie Dough
FILLING
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 tbsp (17 g) sweet white rice flour
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
⅛ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp fine sea salt
2 cups (460 g) roasted squash puree (see Note) or canned pumpkin puree
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) maple syrup (preferably grade B)
1 tsp packed finely grated fresh ginger
1 cup (235 ml) whole milk
3 large eggs
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche or sour cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
FOR SERVING (OPTIONAL)
Maple Bourbon Whipped Cream
For the crust, prepare and parbake the buckwheat pie crust as directed. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). If you have a baking stone, place it on the rack. Place your crust on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment for easy cleanup. If your crust has cooled, place it in the oven until hot just before pouring in the custard, 5-10 minutes.
To make the filling, in a large saucepan, whisk together the sugar, sweet rice flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and salt. Whisk in the squash puree, maple syrup and ginger. Place the pot over medium heat and stir frequently until the mixture comes to a sputtering simmer. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick and shiny, 5 more minutes. Remove from the heat. Whisk in the milk, then the eggs, crème fraîche and vanilla. Strain the custard through a medium-mesh strainer (fine-mesh will take forever and make you hate life); alternatively, puree with an immersion blender.
Pour the custard into the hot pie crust and very carefully transfer to the oven. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 300°F (150°C) and bake for 20-35 more minutes, or until the outer edges are set and slightly puffed and the center wobbles like Jell-O. Let the pie cool completely at room temperature, 2-3 hours; it is still cooking from residual heat. For the cleanest slices or if the pie is soft, chill until firmer, 1-2 hours. Slice into wedges and serve cool or at room temperature with whipped cream if you like. The pie is best the day of baking but will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.
NOTE: To make your own roasted squash puree, cut a large butternut squash in half lengthwise and leave the seeds in for now (they’re easier to remove post-roasting). Place the halves with a cut side down on a lightly oiled, rimmed baking sheet and roast in a 375°F (190°C) oven until very tender and collapsing slightly, about 45 minutes. Let cool, scoop out and discard the seeds and strings, and scoop out and reserve the flesh, discarding the skin. Puree the flesh in a food processor until smooth. The puree will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 2 weeks.
MEYER LEMON AND VANILLA BEAN BUTTERMILK PIE
{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}
This pie is one of my very favorite cures for the midwinter doldrums, bridging the gap between the spiced fruit pies of fall and the first of the strawberries and rhubarb of early spring. Meyer lemons, a lemon-mandarin hybrid common to California, have a sweet-tart flavor that reminds me of sunshine, flowers and brighter days to come. Here, thick buttermilk custard contrasts with shatteringly crisp pie crust. Flecks of vanilla bean bring out the floral notes in the lemons, and cream adds richness to round out the lemons’ acidity. It needs no accompaniment, but slices are nice when dressed up with Honey Candied Kumquats, fresh berries or segments of blood orange or tangerine. This pie is best the day of baking, when the crust is at its crispest, but it will keep well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days. If Meyers aren’t about, make an extra-tangy pie with regular lemon zest and juice.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS
CRUST
1 recipe Flaky Pie Dough
FILLING
¾ cup plus 2 tbsp (175 g) organic granulated cane sugar
Finely grated zest from 2 large (or 3 smaller)
Meyer lemons (1 packed tbsp, or 10 g)
1 vanilla bean
¼ cup (40 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ tsp salt
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
1¼ cups (300 ml) fresh, well-shaken buttermilk
½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream
¼ cup (60 ml) strained Meyer lemon juice (from 1-2 lemons)
For the crust, prepare and parbake the pie crust as directed.
To make the filling, position a rack in the lower third of the oven, top with a baking stone if you’ve got one and preheat to 325°F (165°C).
Place the sugar in a medium bowl and add the lemon zest. Slit the vanilla bean down the center, use the back of the knife to scrape out the seeds and add them to the sugar, reserving the pod for another use (such as Vanilla Extract. Use your fingertips to rub the zest and vanilla seeds into the sugar until it feels damp and slightly clumpy.
Whisk the flour and salt into the sugar until combined, then whisk in the eggs and yolks until smooth, whisking gently to avoid incorporating excess air into the batter. Slowly whisk in the buttermilk, then the cream and lemon juice until smooth.
If your pie crust has cooled, return it to the oven for about 5 minutes to get it hot, patching any holes with leftover dough if necessary. Pour the filling into the hot crust and carefully transfer to the oven.
Bake the pie until mostly set with a slight, Jell-O-like wobble, 40-50 minutes. It will be puffed all over, and will barely wiggle when you give it a shake. Cool the pie completely, about 2 hours. The pie can be served at room temperature, where it will keep for up to 4 hours, or chilled, which will yield cleaner slices.
The pie is best the day of baking, when the crust is crisp, but extras will keep airtight in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
NOTE: Since the custardy filling leaks easily here, be sure to save scraps of pie dough for patching any tiny holes in the parbaked crust. Be sure to use fresh, well-shaken buttermilk in the filling; older buttermilk can become thin and watery, leading to a broken filling. While the pie bakes, watch the oven temperature like a hawk (preferably with an oven thermometer or two); most ovens don’t run true to temperature and a too-hot oven can cause the filling to crack and become grainy.