Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin (2016)

CAKE

Alternative flours have the power to create cakes full of moisture and tenderness that wheat-based cakes can only dream of. Here, there are none of the pitfalls of all-purpose flour, which can toughen when overworked and obliterate flavors with bland starches. From rustic skillet cakes to refined roulades, the cakes in this chapter explode with the tastes of whole grains, natural sweeteners and peak-of-season produce. Liqueurs, creams, herbs, spices and compotes build layers, making each cake well worth its calories in gustatory pleasure.

Here you’ll find a cake for every occasion. There are Bundt cakes, rolled cakes, upside-down cakes and layer cakes. There are spring berries Blueberry Lemon Verbena Bundt Cake with Vanilla Bean Glaze, summer stone fruit Chai-Spiced Nectarine Skillet Cake, fall pomes Chestnut Roulade Cake with Rum, Mascarpone and Roasted Pears, and winter citrus Petite Blood Orange Cornmeal Upside-Down Cake.

Vanilla cupcakes get an update from millet and oat flours. Sorghum flour adds textural interest to a chocolate zucchini cake slathered in cream cheese frosting laced with grass-green matcha. Cozy up with a cup of tea and an olive oil pear cake studded with chocolate, rosemary and flaky salt for an eye-opening pick-me-up. And for special occasions, turn to a twist on a berry layer cake topped with mascarpone, or a spiced persimmon number slathered with whiskey cream cheese frosting.

VANILLA CHIFFON CAKE

{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

During my stint at pastry school, we spent what felt like an inordinate amount of time on cakes. Genoise, chiffon, angel food, white cakes, yellow cakes … they all tasted bland and boring to me. And they’re supposed to. These light, spongy cakes are designed to soak up flavors from other ingredients, making the possibilities endless. I find chiffon to be the easiest and most foolproof, with a moist, springy crumb that gets a double lift from baking powder and whipped egg whites. Here, millet and oat flours add their nutty, buttery flavors with subtle flecks of grain, while sweet rice flour helps maintain an airy crumb that no one would EVER guess was gluten-free. Sunflower oil gives it a slightly warm, clean flavor along with a good dose of vanilla. You might think that being made with vegetable oil would put chiffon at a disadvantage, but au contraire: unlike butter-based cakes, chiffon stays soft even when chilled, making it ideal for cream-filled cakes and custards that need refrigeration.

Unlike the refined wheat cakes from pastry school, slices of this version are tasty enough to serve on their own alongside mugs of tea or coffee, dusted with powdered sugar, or dolloped with whipped cream and fresh berries. For special occasions, it can be sliced into thirds horizontally, brushed with liqueurs or syrups, and layered with favorite fillings or frostings. Cut it into strips, soak it with coffee-nocino syrup and layer it with whipped mascarpone and shaved chocolate for an easy tiramisù. In slightly different configurations, it becomes a base for rolled cakes filled with jam, berries or rhubarb preserves, a boozy chestnut-pear roulade, a bright citrus trifle and a killer tres leches cake doused with rum and smothered in fresh mango.

MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) ROUND CAKE

¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or other neutral oil)

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) water

3 large egg yolks

1 tsp vanilla extract

½ cup plus 2 tbsp (120 g) organic granulated cane sugar

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) millet flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) oat flour

1¼ tsp (6 g) baking powder

½ tsp fine sea salt

5 large egg whites (½ cup plus 2 tbsp [150 ml]), at room temperature

¼ tsp cream of tartar

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line an ungreased 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pan with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, water, egg yolks and vanilla, then whisk in the ½ cup (100 g) sugar. Place a strainer over the bowl and sift the sweet rice, millet and oat flours with the baking powder and salt directly into the yolk mixture, adding back any bits left behind in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth.

Use a flexible silicone spatula to fold one-third of the whites into the batter, then gently fold in the remaining whites until just combined and no streaks remain. Immediately pour the batter into the prepared pan and quickly but gently use an offset spatula to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the cake is golden, springs back to the touch and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 40-50 minutes. Remove to a rack and let cool completely in the pan. Loosen the edges with a thin knife or offset spatula, and invert the cake onto a rack or board. Peel away the parchment paper.

The cake can be made a day or two in advance and stored airtight at room temperature until needed.

VARIATIONS

CITRUS CHIFFON CAKE

Use this as the base for the Citrus Trifle with Lillet Sabayon, or serve slices dressed up with fresh berries and whipped cream and dusted with powdered sugar for an elegant teatime treat.

Place the ½ cup (100 g) sugar in a large bowl. Add the finely grated zest from 1 Meyer lemon, 1 blood orange (or small regular orange) and 1 tangerine and rub with your fingertips until the sugar feels moist. Proceed with the recipe, omitting the vanilla extract.

COCONUT FLOUR CHIFFON CAKE

Coconut flour makes a sweet, springy cake with a touch of texture. It’s super absorbent, hence the higher water content of this cake. To make this into a Triple Coconut Rum “Tres Leches” Cake with Mango and Lime, bake the cake in an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) square baking dish with 2-inch (5-cm) sides lined with parchment paper on the bottom only until it springs back to the touch and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 40-50 minutes, and proceed with the recipe here.

Increase the water to ¾ cup (175 ml). Omit the flours and make the cake with ⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour, ⅓ cup (40 g) coconut flour and ¼ cup (30 g) millet flour.

NOTE: This cake can also be baked in a 9-inch (23-cm) round pan or an 8-inch (20-cm) square pan for thinner cakes. Reduce the baking time as needed.

ROSY RHUBARB ROULADE CAKE

{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

Rolled cakes (sometimes called Swiss rolls or jelly rolls) used to intimidate me until I learned the secret to preventing cracking: roll the warm cake up in a clean tea towel to help set its shape, then spread it with all manner of goodies and roll it up. When sliced, the pinwheels of color are so pleasing to look at, and it’s much easier than making a layer cake. Feel free to go wild with the fillings: brush the cake with liqueur and spread with preserves, whipped cream and chopped fresh fruit. I’ve included a few favorite variations below.

This version gets a rosy filling of pink rhubarb puree. Along with airy sponge cake and rose water-infused crème fraîche, it is the prettiest dessert for a Mother’s Day brunch, springtime birthday or high tea.

MAKES ONE 12-INCH (30-CM) LONG ROLLED CAKE, 10-12 SERVINGS

ROLLED CHIFFON CAKE

¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or other neutral oil)

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (90 ml) water

3 large egg yolks

1 tsp vanilla extract

½ cup plus 2 tbsp (120 g) organic granulated cane sugar

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) oat flour

¼ cup (40 g) millet flour

2 tbsp (11 g) tapioca flour

1¼ tsp (6 g) baking powder

½ tsp fine sea salt

5 large egg whites (½ cup plus 2 tbsp [150 ml]), at room temperature

¼ tsp cream of tartar

¼ cup (25 g) powdered sugar

FILLING

⅓ cup (80 ml) Crème Fraîche

¼ cup (60 ml) heavy whipping cream Seeds from ½ vanilla bean (or ½ tsp vanilla extract)

1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar

½ tsp rose water (or more to taste)

1¼ cups (297 ml) Rhubarb Puree, chilled

Powdered sugar, for dusting

To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line a 12 by 17-inch (30 by 43-cm) ungreased rimmed baking sheet with a piece of parchment paper cut to fit.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, water, egg yolks and vanilla, then whisk in the ½ cup (100 g) sugar. Place a strainer over the bowl and sift the sweet rice, oat, millet and tapioca flours with the baking powder and salt directly into the yolk mixture, adding back any bits left behind in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth.

In the clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add the remaining 2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar and whip until the whites are glossy and just hold a firm peak when lifted from the bowl, 1-3 more minutes. Use a flexible silicone spatula to fold one-third of the whites into the batter to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites until just combined and no streaks remain.

Immediately pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet, and quickly but gently use an offset spatula to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Rap the pan on the counter once or twice to pop any large air bubbles. Transfer to the oven and bake until the cake is golden on top, pulls away from the sides of the pan and feels fairly firm when you press the top gently with the pads of your fingers, 18-22 minutes.

Working quickly, dust the top of the cake with the powdered sugar and loosen it from the sides of the pan using a small offset spatula or knife. Place a large, clean kitchen towel over the cake and top with a second baking sheet or large cutting board. Wearing oven mitts, grab the whole thing and flip it over. Remove the hot pan and carefully peel away the parchment paper. Trim away ¼ inch (6 mm) from each edge of the cake, and roll up the cake with the towel; this will help set the shape and the steam will keep it moist and pliant. You can either roll the cake from a short end for a fatter roll (as shown here) or from a long end for a skinnier roll. Either way, let the cake hang out in its towel roll until mostly cool, about 1 hour.

To make the filling, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, combine the crème fraîche, heavy cream, vanilla seeds, sugar and rose water. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture holds firm peaks. (Err on the side of overwhipping so the cake will hold its shape when rolled.) Taste, adding more rose water if you like. Cover and chill until needed.

Leaving a 1-inch (2.5-cm) border, spread the rhubarb puree evenly over the cake. Dollop the whipped crème fraîche over the rhubarb and spread into an even layer. Re-roll the cake up into a log the same way it was rolled before (but without the towel this time), ending with the seam down. Use a wide spatula or two to transfer the cake to a board. For the cleanest slices, cover the cake and chill until firm, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day.

When ready to serve, dust the cake with a little more powdered sugar and slice into rounds. The cake will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

VARIATIONS

APRICOT CRÈME FRAÎCHE ROULADE

Omit the rhubarb puree and spread the cake with 1 cup (235 ml) good apricot jam. Omit the rose water from the whipped crème fraîche and proceed with the recipe.

STRAWBERRY ELDERFLOWER ROULADE

Elderflower liqueur, such as St-Germain, adds sweetness and nectar-like floral notes to this cake that offsets tangy berries. If you don’t have any on hand, use an orange liqueur such as Cointreau in its place, or leave it out altogether. And feel free to use other berries or diced poached quince in place of the strawberries.

Omit the rhubarb puree. Hull 2 cups (240 g) ripe strawberries and cut them into a small dice. Whip the cream, omitting the rose water. Brush the cake with ¼ cup (60 ml) elderflower liqueur, spread with the whipped crème fraîche, sprinkle the berries over the cream and roll up.

COCONUT CREAM ROULADE {DAIRY-FREE}

Omit the cream and crème fraîche. Place a 13.5-ounce (400 ml) can of full-fat coconut milk (such as Thai Kitchen brand) in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours, until solid. Without tipping or shaking the can, remove the lid and scoop the solidified cream at the top into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, leaving behind the watery liquid at the bottom of the can. Whip on medium-high speed until thickened, then add 2 tablespoons (12 g) powdered sugar and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract (or a few drops of rose water, to taste) and continue whipping until the mixture holds firm peaks, like whipped cream. You should have about 1 cup (115 g). Use this in place of the whipped cream/crème fraîche in any of the variations.

NOTE: This cake base is a variation of the chiffon cake on with a few tweaks to make it conducive to rolling.

BLUEBERRY LEMON VERBENA BUNDT CAKE WITH VANILLA BEAN GLAZE

{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

To me, fresh lemon verbena smells like happiness—bright, citrusy and floral. The leaves make a tasty tisane when brewed in hot water, or they can be added to custards or cocktails. Here, they perfume a buttery pound cake studded with blueberries and a few scrapes of lemon zest. Once you’ve tried it, you may start noticing it growing in backyards, and sneaking handfuls when no one’s looking. But don’t let the hard-to-find herb stop you from making this cake; you can leave it out and still have a happy Bundt.

Cream cheese is the magic ingredient that makes for a moist pound cake dense enough to keep the berries aloft. Be sure to thoroughly grease the crevices of the Bundt pan with a pastry brush dipped in butter softened to the texture of mayonnaise, and dust it thoroughly with flour, tapping out the excess. This will ensure a Bundt that releases easily from the pan every time. This recipe can also be baked in two standard-size loaf pans lined with parchment.

MAKES ONE 10-INCH (25-CM) BUNDT CAKE, 12-16 SERVINGS

CAKE

1 cup (226 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 2 tbsp (30 g) for the pan

¾ cup (85 g) GF oat flour, plus 2 tbsp (25 g) for the pan

6 oz (¾ cup [175 g]) cream cheese, softened

1 cup (210 g) organic granulated cane sugar

Finely grated zest from 2 large lemons

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1½ cups (235 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (70 g) millet flour

¼ cup (30 g) tapioca flour/starch

1 tbsp (12 g) baking powder

1 tsp fine sea salt

2½ cups (340 g) fresh blueberries

⅓ cup (17 g) chopped fresh lemon verbena leaves

GLAZE

1 cup (120 g) powdered sugar

Seeds from 1 vanilla bean

2-4 tbsp (30-60 ml) lemon juice (or enough to make a drizzle-able glaze)

Tiny lemon verbena leaves and extra blueberries, for garnish (optional)

To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Use a pastry brush dipped in the 2 tablespoons (30 g) soft butter to grease a 10-cup (10-inch [25-cm]) Bundt pan thoroughly. Sprinkle the pan with 2 tablespoons (25 g) oat flour and tap and shake the pan to coat it evenly, rapping it on the counter to release excess flour.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with your arm and a wooden spoon), cream together the remaining 1 cup (226 g) butter, cream cheese, sugar and lemon zest on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3-4 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing to combine after each addition, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. The mixture may look broken or curdled; this is okay, as it will come together in the next step.

Meanwhile, sift together the remaining ¾ cup (85 g) oat, sweet rice, millet and tapioca flours with the baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. With the mixer on low, stir the flour mixture into the butter mixture until just thoroughly combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Remove the bowl from the mixer, add the blueberries and lemon verbena, and use a flexible silicone spatula to fold gently to combine, scraping the bottom and sides of the bowl to make sure the batter is homogenous. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top, tapping the pan a few times on the counter to settle it into the pan’s crevices and release any large air pockets.

Bake the cake until the top is lightly golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, or with a few moist crumbs, 55-65 minutes. Let the cake cool slightly, then invert a large plate or platter over the pan, grasp the whole thing and flip it over, tapping it on the counter a few times. The cake should release easily from the pan. Let the cake cool completely.

To make the glaze, in a small bowl, whisk together the powdered sugar, vanilla bean seeds and enough lemon juice to make a drizzle-able glaze. Whisk well to eradicate lumps. Use a pastry brush to drizzle and brush the glaze all over the cake.

Serve the cake at room temperature, scattered with tiny lemon verbena leaves and extra berries if you like. The cake keeps well, airtight at room temperature, for up to 2 days, or refrigerated for up to a few days (let come to room temperature before eating for best results).

MESQUITE CHOCOLATE CAKES WITH WHIPPED CRÈME FRAÎCHE AND RASPBERRIES

{MESQUITE}

These little chocolate cupcakes fall somewhere between a flourless chocolate cake and a more traditional cupcake. Mesquite flour makes the batter sturdier while adding a touch of warm, earthy flavor that underscores the bittersweet chocolate. Topped with whipped crème fraîche and raspberries, they’ll win fans at any party or potluck.

The cakes are best at room temperature, so assemble them shortly before serving for best results. They are a bit messier to eat than traditional cupcakes, so do hand out napkins. If you don’t have mesquite flour on hand, these work well with an equal measure of almond flour.

MAKES 10 INDIVIDUAL CAKES

CAKES

6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter

6 oz (170 g) bittersweet chocolate (60-70% cacao mass), chopped (about 1 cup)

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (80 g) organic granulated cane sugar

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (40 g) mesquite flour, sifted

¼ tsp fine sea salt

1 tsp vanilla extract

3 large eggs, at room temperature, separated

TOPPING

½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche

⅓ cup (80 ml) heavy cream

1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar

½ tsp vanilla extract

1 pint (~200 g) raspberries, rinsed and dried

A handful of cacao nibs (optional, for serving)

To make the cakes, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Fill a standard muffin pan with 10 paper liners.

In a large heatproof bowl set over a pot of barely simmering water, combine the butter and chocolate. Stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and smooth, 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in 3 tablespoons (40 g) of the sugar and all of the mesquite flour, salt, vanilla and finally the egg yolks.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip the egg whites on medium-high speed until foamy. Slowly sprinkle in the remaining 3 tablespoons (40 g) sugar and continue whipping until the whites hold soft peaks (when you pull the whip out and turn it upside down, the egg whites form a peak that flops over). Be careful not to overwhip the whites or they will be difficult to incorporate into the batter and will make for denser cakes.

Stir one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture until just combined, then gently fold in the remaining two-thirds until no streaks remain. Divide the batter among the lined muffin cups, filling them three-fourths of the way to the top. Bake the cakes until puffed and cracked, and a toothpick inserted into the centers comes out with moist crumbs, 20-25 minutes. Let cool completely. The cakes can be made up to 1 or 2 days ahead and stored airtight at room temperature for up to 2 days.

To make the topping, combine the crème fraîche, heavy cream, sugar and vanilla extract in the chilled bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Whip on medium-high speed until the mixture holds firm peaks. Chill until needed.

When ready to serve, dollop the cooled cakes with the whipped crème fraîche and top with a handful of raspberries and a few cacao nibs. Serve soon after assembling.

NOTE: When baking these, be sure to have your eggs at room temperature; cold eggs can cause the batter to seize and firm up, making it difficult to work with. To quickly warm your eggs, place them, still in their shells, in a bowl of hot tap water for 5 minutes or so.

VANILLA BUTTER CAKE WITH WHIPPED MASCARPONE AND SUMMER BERRIES

{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

This buttery yellow layer cake filled with billows of cream and loads of summer berries is not unlike a giant berry shortcake. Slices always remind me of my dad, who each summer would top store-bought pound cake with whipped cream and ripe strawberries, which he’d toss in a little Triple Sec. Though impressive to look at, it’s stupid easy to put together and it tastes even better after a day in the fridge. Mascarpone adds body to the whipped cream and helps it hold its shape, and a double dose of vanilla (bean and extract) adds sweetness to a neutral cake base made soft and springy from sweet rice, oat and millet flours. Serve this cake at cool room temperature so the butter in the cake softens up but the cream stays firm. And if you want to try this Dad-style, brush the cake layers with a bit of Triple Sec or another GF orange liqueur before layering with the berries.

MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) 2-LAYER CAKE, ABOUT 10 SERVINGS

CAKE

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus 1 tsp for the pan

¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar

Seeds from 1 vanilla bean

2 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup (105 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (50 g) GF oat flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) millet flour

1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

½ tsp fine sea salt

½ cup (120 ml) well-shaken buttermilk

1 tsp vanilla extract

WHIPPED MASCARPONE AND BERRIES

¾ cup (170 g) mascarpone

1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream

Seeds from ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar

5 cups (500 g) mixed summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and blueberries)

Honey or sugar for the berries (optional, if berries are tart)

To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Grease an 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pan with 2-inch (5-cm) sides with the 1 teaspoon softened butter and line the bottom with a round of parchment paper cut to fit.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter, sugar and vanilla seeds together on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition, and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. In a medium-sized bowl, sift together the sweet rice, oat and millet flours with the baking powder, baking soda and salt.

Add half of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and beat on low speed until just combined. Beat in the buttermilk and vanilla, mixing until just combined, then beat in the remaining flour mixture, beating until well combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. Remove the bowl from the mixer and stir with a flexible silicone spatula to make sure the batter is homogenous.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread into an even layer. Bake the cake until the top springs back to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 35-45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely, 1-2 hours.

To make the whipped mascarpone, place the mascarpone, heavy cream, vanilla bean seeds and sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or use a large bowl and a handheld whisk or hand blender). Beat the mixture on low speed until combined, then increase to medium and whip until the mixture holds firm peaks, a minute or so. If you overwhip and the mixture becomes grainy, you can rescue it by folding in several more tablespoons of heavy cream until the mixture loosens up. Cover and chill until needed, up to 1 day.

To assemble the cake, rinse the berries and let them dry on paper towels. Hull and quarter the strawberries, and halve the blackberries if large. Turn the cooled cake out of its pan and peel away the parchment paper. Place the cake on a cutting board and use a large serrated knife to slice the cake in half horizontally, making the halves as even as possible. Place the bottom half cut side up on a serving plate or stand. Spread the cake with half of the whipped mascarpone and top with 2 cups (200 g) of the berries, pressing the berries into the cream slightly. If the berries are tart, drizzle with a bit of honey or sugar. Top with the remaining cake half, cut side down, and spread with the remaining mascarpone and berries, mounding the berries on top. Sprinkle with honey or sugar if you like. Serve the cake immediately, or chill for up to 1 day.

CHOCOLATE ZUCCHINI CAKE WITH MATCHA CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

{SORGHUM, SWEET RICE}

Perhaps it’s all the sugar I eat as a professional baker, but I love going to the dentist. And while it may seem wrong, I often show up with a box of baked goods in tow. Some dentists might give you a talking-to for tempting them with evil sugar, but mine has a wicked sweet tooth. When I proffered a box of this cake on my last visit, she called all the hygienists into her office for a slice, and one after another they trooped into the waiting room with brown crumbs about the lips to profess their love for this cake. I can’t blame them. This tastes a bit like a classic chocolate cake, but with a fudgy texture from zucchini and sweet rice and sorghum flours and an eye-opening finish of matcha cream cheese frosting. It’s sure to win you fans in the unlikeliest of places.

Be sure to measure the zucchini by weight or volume; they can vary greatly in size and too much zucchini will lead to a soggy cake. For cupcakes, divide the batter among 12 paper-lined muffin cups and bake for 18-22 minutes. Do feel free to leave the matcha out of the frosting if making this for kiddos, or decrease the amount if you’re not accustomed to its assertive flavor.

MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) SQUARE CAKE, 9 LARGE SERVINGS OR 16 SMALL SERVINGS

CAKE

8 oz (225 g) zucchini (about 2 small)

1 cup (215 g) packed organic light brown sugar

2 large eggs

¼ cup (60 ml) light olive oil or sunflower oil

¼ cup (60 ml) whole milk

1 tsp vanilla extract

¾ cup (60 g) Dutch-process cocoa powder

¾ cup plus 2 tbsp (115 g) sorghum flour

¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour

2 tsp (8 g) baking powder

½ tsp fine sea salt

FROSTING

6 oz (¾ cup [170 g]) cream cheese, softened

3 tbsp (42 g) unsalted butter, softened

¾ cup (85 g) powdered sugar

1 tbsp (5 g) good-quality culinary-grade matcha

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossing pieces of parchment paper, leaving an overhang on each side. (Alternatively, grease the pan with 1 teaspoon softened unsalted butter.)

Trim the zucchini and grate them on the medium holes of a box grater (the ones that measure ⅛ inch [2-3 mm]); you should have 1 cup (about 200 g) packed grated zucchini. Place the grated zucchini in a large bowl and add the brown sugar, eggs, oil, milk and vanilla extract, stirring to combine well. Place a strainer over the bowl and sift the cocoa powder, sorghum flour, sweet rice flour, baking powder and salt into the zucchini mixture, pushing through any clumps, then stir well to combine.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth into an even layer. Bake the cake until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out with moist crumbs, 45-55 minutes. Let cool completely, at least 30 minutes and up to 1 day. The cake can be wrapped and stored for up to 2 days.

To make the frosting, combine the cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar, matcha powder and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat the frosting on low speed, increasing to medium speed until smooth, light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally.

Place the cake on a serving board or platter and use a small, offset spatula or butter knife to spread the frosting over the top and sides, making swirls as you go. The cake can sit at cool room temperature for up to 2 hours. If not serving right away, chill for up to 1 day but bring back to room temperature before serving to soften the frosting.

CHAI-SPICED NECTARINE SKILLET CAKE

{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

A yellow cake laced with the sweet spices commonly used in masala chai—cinnamon, ginger and cardamom—this is a simply stunning way to showcase nectarines with flavors that straddle the line between summer and fall. A blend of sweet rice, millet and oat flours creates a flavorful base with a delicate crumb that drinks up the juices of the fruit. Use flavorful nectarines that are fragrant but still firm enough to slice. Feel free to trade the nectarines for peeled peaches. The cake can also be baked in a 9-inch (23-cm) cake pan lined with a round of parchment paper.

MAKES ONE 9- TO 10-INCH (23- TO 25-CM) CAKE, 8-10 SERVINGS

SPICED SUGAR

¾ cup (165 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1½ tsp (4 g) ground cardamom

1 tsp ground ginger

¾ tsp ground cinnamon

CAKE

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, plus 2 tsp (9 g) for greasing the pan and 2 tsp (9 g) for dotting the fruit topping, all at room temperature

Spiced sugar from above (2 tbsp [20 g] reserved for topping; see instructions)

2 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup (115 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (55 g) oat flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) millet flour

2 tsp (8 g) baking powder

¾ tsp fine sea salt

⅓ cup (80 ml) Crème Fraîche or sour cream

2 tsp (10 ml) vanilla extract

1 lb (450 g) ripe but firm nectarines (about

4 medium; white, yellow or a blend)

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9- or 10-inch (23- or 25-cm) ovenproof skillet with 2-inch (5-cm) sides (such as a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet) with the 2 teaspoons (9 g) softened butter. To make the spiced sugar, in a small bowl, stir together the sugar, cardamom, ginger and cinnamon. Set aside 2 tablespoons (20 g) to top the cake.

To make the cake, combine the remaining spiced sugar with the 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon). Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally, 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.

In a medium bowl, sift together the sweet rice, oat and millet flours with the baking powder and salt. Add half of the flour mixture to the butter mixture and mix on low speed until just combined. Add the crème fraîche and vanilla, mix on low speed until just combined, then add the remaining flour mixture, beating on low until well combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and give it a good stir with a rubber spatula, scraping the bottom and sides to make sure the batter is homogenous.

If the nectarines are freestones, halve them and remove their pits. Otherwise, cut the fruit off of the pit following the curve of the pit with the knife. Cut some of the nectarine pieces into enough ½-inch (1.3-cm) cubes to equal 1 cup (145 g), and slice the rest into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick wedges. Gently fold the chunks into the batter, then spread the batter evenly into the greased skillet. Fan the nectarine slices over the top of the cake, pressing them into the batter a bit. Sprinkle the reserved 2 tablespoons (20 g) spiced sugar evenly over the top, and dot the fruit with the remaining 2 teaspoons (9 g) butter.

Bake the cake until the top is golden and set, the sides are pulling away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 45-55 minutes. Let cool completely, 1-2 hours, then use a sharp paring knife to cut the cake into wedges and remove them from the pan using a small offset spatula or cake server. The cake is best the day of baking but leftovers keep well, covered at room temperature, for up to 1 day or refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days.

VARIATION: CHAI-SPICED PEAR SKILLET CAKE

Omit the nectarines and substitute 1 pound (450 g) ripe but firm pears, peeled, cored and prepared in the same manner as the nectarines, tossing the pear slices with 2 teaspoons (10 ml) lemon juice before you fan them over the top of the cake. Proceed with the recipe.

CHESTNUT PLUM FINANCIERS

{ALMOND, CHESTNUT}

These dense little cakes bursting with browned butter were the invention of a bakery near the Paris stock exchange, where they were baked to resemble small gold bricks and named for the money men of the area. Financiers are by far my favorite way to make use of extra egg whites, which I often have after making a batch of ice cream. The egg whites magically do the work of fluffing the cakes, no leavening necessary, and all that protein makes for a satisfying texture sans gluten. Financiers avail themselves to myriad flavorings, and I often change up the fruit and flours based on what’s in season. Here they soak up moisture from tart plums, and they gain dimension from earthy, sweet chestnut flour. Flour from Ladd Hill will make for mild, blond cakes (as pictured here); the darker conventional flour works equally well, but will make for more deeply colored cakes with a more pronounced flavor. If you don’t have access to chestnut flour, try these with ⅓ cup (35 g) GF oat flour in its place, or the buckwheat variation below. See “How to Brown Butter” for tips.

MAKES 10-12 INDIVIDUAL CAKES

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, plus 1-2 tsp

(5-10 g) softened butter for greasing the pans

½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

¾ cup (80 g) blanched almond flour

⅓ cup (35 g) chestnut flour

1½ tbsp (11 g) cornstarch

½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 1-2 tbsp (10-20 g) for sprinkling

¼ tsp fine sea salt

4 large egg whites (½ cup [120 ml])

3 medium ripe but firm plums (225 g)

VACATION:

BUCKWHEAT HAZELNUT PEAR FINANCIERS

Omit the almond and chestnut flours, using ¾ cup (75 g) hazelnut flour/meal and ⅓ cup (40 g) buckwheat flour. Omit the plums, using 2 medium ripe but firm pears (225 g). Peel the pears, halve them lengthwise, cut out the cores and stems, and halve again crosswise. Slice into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick pieces and proceed with the recipe.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Use a pastry brush or scrunched-up paper towel to rub 10-12 standard muffin tins with the 1-2 teaspoons (5-10 g) softened butter. (Alternatively, line the cups with paper liners.)

Place the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan with the vanilla pod and scrapings. Cook over medium heat, swirling occasionally. After 3-5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. At this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter into a small heatproof bowl to stop the cooking, and let cool for 10-15 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.

In a large bowl, sift together the almond and chestnut flours with the cornstarch, ½ cup (100 g) sugar and salt, adding back any bits that get stuck in the strainer. Whisk in the egg whites vigorously until the batter is smooth, then whisk in the melted, cooled butter little by little until well combined. Let sit while you prepare the plums; the batter will thicken slightly. It can also be covered and chilled for up to 2 days prior to baking.

Using a sharp knife, cut the plums off their pits and slice thinly, discarding the end pieces that are mostly skin. Divide the batter among the greased or lined cups, filling them halfway. (A spring-loaded ice cream scoop makes quick work of this.) Top with a fan of plum slices and sprinkle the tops with the remaining 1-2 tablespoons (10-20 g) sugar, using more for tart plums and less for sweeter ones.

Bake the cakes until golden on top and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 30-35 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes, then use a thin knife or small offset spatula to loosen the edges and release the cakes from the pans. Financiers are best the day of baking, but they keep well, airtight at room temperature, for an additional day or two.

NOTE: Be sure to grease your molds with softened butter the consistency of mayonnaise, as the sticky batter will gladly adhere to less well-greased pans. Alternatively, line the muffin pan with paper liners.

FIG AND OLIVE OIL CAKE

{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

This cake was inspired by a flat of gorgeous Black Mission figs that arrived at my door, hand-picked by my dear friend Amelia from her grandmother’s tree. The figs were enormous—it took only four, each cut into eighths, to cover the top of this cake. The base is the same as the Chocolate Pear Tea Cakes with Rosemary, Olive Oil and Sea Salt on, but with a good grating of lemon zest mixed in to contrast the sweet figs. Almond flour and Greek yogurt form a nubby base that supports the juicy figs, and the lemon plays off the olive oil to add a bit of mysterious complexity. A good sprinkle of sugar over the top makes a crunchy crust. If figs aren’t about, try this cake crowned with sliced plums instead.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) ROUND CAKE, 10 SERVINGS

1 tsp (5 g) unsalted butter, for the pan

1 cup (120 g) blanched almond flour

½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour

¼ cup (35 g) millet flour

2 tsp (8 g) baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

¼ tsp fine sea salt

½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 2 tbsp (20 g) for sprinkling on top

2 large eggs

½ cup (120 g) whole-milk plain Greek yogurt

(I use Straus Family Creamery)

6 tbsp (90 ml) flavorful extra-virgin olive oil

Finely grated zest from 1 medium lemon

4-6 large (200 g) fresh figs

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan with the unsalted butter and place on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.

Sift the almond, sweet rice, oat and millet flours together into a medium bowl along with the baking powder, baking soda and salt, adding back any bits that get caught in the sifter. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the ½ cup (100 g) sugar, eggs, yogurt, olive oil and lemon zest. Stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture until smooth and homogenous. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, and smooth into an even layer.

Trim the stems from the figs, halve each lengthwise, and cut each half into 4 wedges (for large figs) or 2 wedges (for smaller figs). Place the fig wedges over the top of the cake batter in concentric rings (or just drop them over the top willy-nilly—that looks nice, too). Sprinkle all over with the remaining 2 tablespoons (20 g) sugar.

Bake the cake until golden on top and a tester inserted near the center comes out clean, 40-50 minutes.

Remove the cake from the oven and let cool completely, 45 minutes, then remove the sides from the pan. Slide the cake onto a serving platter and cut into wedges to serve.

The cake is best within the first 2 days of baking but will keep at room temperature for up to 3 days.

CHOCOLATE PEAR TEA CAKES WITH ROSEMARY, OLIVE OIL AND SEA SALT

{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

These little cakes were inspired by a cast-iron muffin pan I scored at the Alemany Flea Market in San Francisco. They straddle the line between sweet and savory with the additions of peppery olive oil, bittersweet chocolate, flakes of sea salt and a whisper of rosemary. The combination of sweet rice, millet, oat and almond flours keeps them delicate but never crumbly, despite the lack of gums or starches, and the neutral flavor of the grains allows the subtle nuances of ripe pear to star. These little cakes are incredibly moist from olive oil and whole-milk yogurt, and the almond flour adds a bit of nubby texture. I like to top the muffins with extras of the flavorings to pretty them up and let everyone know what’s hiding inside: juicy pear chunks, shavings of chocolate and woodsy rosemary. These make a first-rate afternoon treat alongside a cup of tea, though I won’t tell if you have one for breakfast …

MAKES 12 INDIVIDUAL CAKES

CAKES

1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the pan

1 cup (120 g) blanched almond flour

½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour

¼ cup (35 g) millet flour

2 tsp (8 g) baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

¼ tsp fine sea salt

½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar

2 large eggs

½ cup (120 ml) whole-milk plain yogurt (I use Straus European-style whole-milk yogurt)

6 tbsp (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp (1 g) finely chopped fresh rosemary

⅔ cup (3.5 oz [100 g]) chopped bittersweet chocolate

1½ cups (140 g) chopped ripe but firm pear

TOPPING

Pear pieces

Chocolate chunks

Chopped rosemary

Coarse sugar, such as demerara or turbinado

Flaky salt, such as Maldon

To make the cakes, position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Brush the cups and top of a standard 12-cup muffin tin with the softened butter (or fill with paper liners).

Sift the almond, sweet rice, oat and millet flours together into a medium bowl along with the baking powder, baking soda and salt, adding back any bits that get caught in the sifter. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, eggs, yogurt, olive oil and rosemary. Gently stir the flour mixture into the egg mixture until smooth, then fold in the chocolate and pears until evenly distributed.

Divide the batter among the muffin cups, filling them almost to the top. Top each cake with a pear piece, chocolate bits, a few bits of rosemary, a flutter of coarse sugar and a few flakes of salt.

Bake the cakes until golden on top and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 23-30 minutes. They are still baking from residual heat, so let cool until warm, at least 20 minutes, then release them from the pan and let cool completely. Extra cakes will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.

CHESTNUT ROULADE CAKE WITH RUM, MASCARPONE AND ROASTED PEARS

{CHESTNUT, SWEET RICE}

My favorite-ever job was baking at a short-lived, all-organic patisserie run by two sisters. The owner and head baker Rachel would go to any length to obtain organic products, which included candying our own citrus peels, blanching our own almonds and roasting and peeling chestnuts to puree into chocolate cakes. Luckily, the chestnut thing happened only once. We spent several days heating and peeling the little buggers around the clock, only to end up with burnt fingertips and a handful of dense cakes that didn’t sell. I swore off chestnuts for a while after that, until my dear friend and yoga teacher Gizella, who hails from Hungary and has a sadistic streak when it comes to core work (though, thankfully, not chestnut peeling), made a tiramisù of sorts filled with chestnut cream whipped with mascarpone. I thought I’d died and gone to heaven.

Here, that same deliciousness fills a springy cake flavored with earthy chestnut flour, plenty of dark rum and brown sugar all rolled up with roasted pears. A taste tester described it as “light and fluffy, but still wintery and warm-tasting.” In the United States, chestnut products only appear in stores around the holidays, but you can scour Italian grocers to find them year-round. Look for chestnut spread or cream made with sugar (as opposed to puree made from just chestnuts and water). Perrotta makes a less-sweet version that tastes as though made by angels, but others will work just fine. You’ll have a little extra filling left over to “taste” or serve along slices. If you like your desserts extra-boozy, up the rum or whiskey to ⅓ cup (80 ml). This makes an ideal do-ahead dessert as it stores well for a day or two and needs only to be sliced and plated when it comes time for dessert. Watch them swoon.

MAKES ONE 12-INCH (30-CM) LONG ROLLED CAKE, 12 SERVINGS

CAKE

¼ cup (60 ml) sunflower oil (or other neutral-tasting vegetable oil)

½ cup (120 ml) water

2 large egg yolks

1 tsp vanilla extract

½ cup plus 2 tbsp (135 g) fresh, packed organic light or dark brown sugar

½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (55 g) chestnut flour

2 tbsp (15 g) tapioca flour

1¼ tsp (6 g) baking powder

½ tsp fine sea salt

5 egg whites (½ cup plus 2 tbsp [150 ml]), at room temperature

¼ tsp cream of tartar

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar

¼ cup (25 g) powdered sugar, plus more for finishing

¼ cup (60 ml) GF black or spiced rum (such as The Kraken)

ROASTED PEARS

1 tbsp (14 g) unsalted butter

8 medium-sized pears such as Bartlett or Anjou, ripe but firm (2 lb [900 g])

2 tbsp (20 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar

CHESTNUT CREAM

1 cup (225 g) mascarpone

1 cup (225 g) sweetened chestnut spread (sometimes called “chestnut cream”)

1 cup (235 ml) heavy whipping cream

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped (pod reserved for Vanilla Extract, or 1 tsp vanilla extract

Big pinch of fine sea salt

2 tbsp (20 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar, as needed (depending on sweetness of chestnut spread)

NOTES

✵ If you can’t find chestnut spread, no worries; leave it out and add 2-4 tablespoons (25-50 g) packed organic brown sugar to taste.

✵ Roulade cakes can be tricky even for seasoned bakers. If your cake cracks in too many places when you roll it up, never fear: cut it up, stick it in individual serving glasses or bowls, dust with a little extra powdered sugar and call it trifle.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, water, egg yolks and vanilla, then whisk in the brown sugar. Place a mesh strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice, chestnut and tapioca flours with the baking powder and salt directly into the bowl, adding back any bits left behind in the strainer. Whisk until very smooth.

In the clean, dry bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a large bowl with a hand blender or balloon whisk), whip the egg whites with the cream of tartar on medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Slowly add the sugar and whip until the whites are glossy and hold a firm peak when lifted from the bowl.

Use a flexible silicone spatula to fold one-third of the whites into the batter to loosen, then gently fold in the rest until just combined and no streaks remain. Immediately pour the batter onto the prepared baking sheet, and quickly but gently use an offset spatula to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the cake springs back to the touch, 20-30 minutes. While the cake bakes, gather the following to have at the ready: powdered sugar in a strainer, small offset spatula or knife, large clean kitchen towel, a second baking sheet and kitchen shears or a sharp knife.

Working quickly, dust the top of the baked cake with the powdered sugar and use the knife or spatula to loosen it from the sides of the pan. Place a large, clean kitchen towel over the cake and top with a second, inverted baking sheet. Wearing oven mitts, grab the whole thing and flip it over. Remove the hot pan and carefully peel away the parchment paper. Trim away ¼ inch (6 mm) from each edge of the cake, and roll up the cake with the towel; this will help set the shape and the steam will keep it moist and pliant. You can either roll the cake from a short end for a fatter roll (as shown here) or from a long end for a skinnier roll. Either way, let the cake hang out in its towel roll until mostly cool, about 1 hour.

While the cake cools, roast the pears. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C). Rub a rimmed baking sheet with a little of the butter and cut the rest into small pieces. Peel the pears, cut them off the core and slice into ¼- to ½-Winch (6- to 13-mm) thick slices. Spread in a single layer on the buttered pan, sprinkle with the brown sugar and dot with the butter pieces. Roast the pears until golden on the underside, about 20 minutes, then turn each slice and roast on the second side until golden, 10-20 more minutes; it’s okay if they get broken up a little. Remove from the oven and use a thin metal spatula to scrape the pears onto a large plate. Chill until cool, 15 minutes.

To make the chestnut cream, place the mascarpone in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment. Mash with a flexible spatula to smooth out any lumps, then add the chestnut spread, heavy cream, vanilla seeds and salt. Whip on medium speed until the mixture holds firm peaks (we want it fairly firm so that the cake will hold its shape). Taste, adding a tablespoon or two (15 or 30 g) of brown sugar if you feel the filling needs it. Cover and chill until needed.

Gently unroll the cake. Use a pastry brush to drizzle and dab the rum evenly over the cake. Leaving a 1-inch (2.5-cm) border on the inner and outer edges, cover the cake with about three-fourths of the chestnut cream, reserving the rest, and top with the roasted pears. Re-roll the cake into a log, ending with the seam side down and using the towel to help. Use a wide spatula to transfer it to a baking sheet or board, and cover it with plastic wrap. Chill the cake until sliceable, at least an hour and up to 1 day. (If the cake isn’t perfectly round, or if it cracks, you can usually smoosh it together once chilled.)

When ready to serve, dust the cake with a little more powdered sugar. Use a sharp chef’s knife to slice the cake into rounds and serve with the extra chestnut cream if you like. The cake will keep for up to 3 days.

VARIATION: CHESTNUT ROULADE WITH MASCARPONE, CINNAMON ROASTED APPLES AND WHISKEY (OR CALVADOS)

Omit the pears, using 2 pounds (900 g) tart baking apples (6 medium) and sprinkling the raw apples with ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon in addition to the brown sugar. Replace the rum with an equal amount of GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie Sorghum Whiskey), or try this with Calvados, an apple brandy from the Normandy region of France.

GINGER, VANILLA AND QUINCE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

{SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

I have a hard time letting go of summer produce come fall, but fun fruits such as quinces and persimmons help ease the transition. Quinces are a member of the pome family along with apples and pears, and they look like a knobby combination of the two. Their flesh is pithy and must undergo a long, slow cook to be rendered edible. When they do, they turn a delightful shade of pink, and their mysterious flavors get teased out. Pomes are part of the rose family, which makes sense given the floral notes inherent in a quince. I like to accentuate quince’s flowery qualities, so here I’ve paired it with vanilla, Meyer lemon and fresh ginger all wrapped up in a buttery cake. Sweet rice, oat and millet flours make a neutral base with a meltingly tender texture that allows the subtle tastes in this cake to star. Serve slices with a dollop of Whipped Crème Fraîche for a pretty fall dessert or teatime treat. And if you haven’t any quinces about, try the equally delicious pear version, below.

MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) CAKE, 8-10 SERVINGS

POACHED QUINCES

1 vanilla bean

½ large lemon (preferably Meyer)

4 cups (950 ml) water, plus more as needed

1 cup (235 ml) dry white wine

¾ cup (125 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1¾ lb (800 g) quince (about 3 large or 6 small)

CAKE

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, softened, plus

2 tsp (10 g) for the pan

Vanilla bean seeds (from above)

½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

2 tbsp (30 g) finely grated, packed fresh ginger

½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (65 g) millet flour

½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour

1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

½ tsp fine sea salt

½ cup plus 2 tbsp (150 g) Crème Fraîche

To poach the quinces, split the vanilla bean down the center and use the back of a knife to scrape away the seeds. Set the seeds aside to use in the cake, and place the pod in a large saucepan. Use a vegetable peeler (T-shaped works best) to pare away the lemon peel and add to the pot. Juice the lemon and add the juice to the pot along with the water, wine and sugar. Bring the liquid to a boil while you prepare the quinces.

Use a T-shaped vegetable peeler to pare away the skin of each quince. Cut it in half, leaving the seeds in for now, and add it to the pot. Continue with the remaining quinces. Place a small, heatproof plate (or round of parchment paper cut to fit) over the quinces to keep them submerged, cover partially with the lid of the pot and adjust the heat to keep the liquid at a simmer. Cook until the quinces are rosy and tender, about 1½ hours, adding more water as needed to keep the quinces submerged. When done, carefully remove the quinces and let them drain, reserving the liquid (or let the quinces cool in their juices if using later). Cut the cores, stems and blossoms from the quinces and cut them into ¼-inch (6-mm) thick slices, then chop some of the slices into ½ cup (75 g) chunks (these will get stirred into the batter).

Return the poaching liquid to the saucepan and simmer until reduced by about half and bubbling thickly, 10-20 minutes. Reserve.

To make the cake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C).

Grease an 8- or 9-inch (20- or 23-cm) round cake pan with some of the 2 teaspoons (10 g) softened butter and line with a round of parchment cut to fit. Butter the parchment. Lay the quince slices, slightly overlapping, in concentric circles over the buttered parchment and set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl fitted with your arm and a wooden spoon), combine the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter, vanilla bean seeds and sugar. Beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until combined after each and scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed, then beat in the grated ginger.

Meanwhile, sift the sweet rice, millet and oat flours with the baking powder, baking soda and salt into a medium bowl.

With the mixer on low, stir half of the flour mixture into the butter mixture until just combined. Stir in the crème fraîche until just combined, then the rest of the flour, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed. Stir in the chopped quince and give the batter a final stir by hand to make sure it is well combined. Gently spread the batter over the quinces.

Bake the cake until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 40-50 minutes. Let the cake cool completely, then invert onto a serving platter and gently peel away the parchment. If the reduced poaching liquid has solidified, warm it in a small saucepan until liquid. Brush some of this glaze over the top of the cake. Serve the cake at room temperature with a dollop of cream, if you like. Extras will keep at room temperature for up to 2 days or refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days.

VARIATION: GINGER PEAR UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

Omit the quinces and poaching liquid. Place 3 tablespoons (42 g) unsalted butter in the prepared pan and place in the oven to melt, 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and sprinkle ¼ cup (50 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar and a big pinch of salt evenly over the melted butter. Peel and core 3 large ripe but firm pears (1¼ pounds [565 g]) and slice lengthwise into ¼-inch (6-mm) slices. Chop enough of the slices to make ½ cup (75 g) pear chunks. Fan the slices over the brown sugar, overlapping slightly in concentric circles, and fold the pear chunks into the batter. Proceed with the recipe, turning out the cake while still warm. Optionally, drizzle the top of the cake with any variation of Salty Vanilla Bean Caramel Sauce.

TWO-PERSIMMON LAYER CAKE WITH VANILLA BOURBON CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, MILLET, OAT}

Persimmons rarely get the love they deserve, particularly the oblong variety (Hachiya), which must be squishy-ripe to lose astringency and burst with soft, sweet flesh. This cake makes use of both Hachiyas, which get pureed into a gently spiced batter full of nubby almond flour, and Fuyus, which crown the layers in electric orange cubes. A bourbon-infused vanilla cream cheese frosting makes this a unique cake for the winter holidays. Baking the cake in a 6-inch (15-cm) pan gives you a petite cake with three layers, pictured here. Alternatively, make an 8-inch (20-cm) cake with two shorter layers, or try the cupcake variation on.

MAKES ONE 6-INCH (15-CM) CAKE WITH 3 LAYERS OR ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) CAKE WITH 2 LAYERS, 8-10 SERVES

CAKE

½ cup (60 g) blanched almond flour

½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (75 g) millet flour

½ cup (55 g) GF oat flour

1 tsp baking soda

1 tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp ground cardamom

½ tsp fine sea salt

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup (100 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar

2 large eggs, separated

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 cup (235 ml) Hachiya persimmon puree (see Note)

FROSTING AND FILLING

8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, at room temperature

4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¾ cup (85 g) powdered sugar

Seeds from 1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp vanilla extract

Pinch of fine sea salt

2 tbsp (30 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie) (or a squeeze of lemon juice)

2 large Fuyu persimmons, ripe but firm A squeeze of lemon juice

VARIATION:

TWO-PERSIMMON CUPCAKES

Divide the batter among 12 muffin cups fitted with paper liners. Bake for 28-32 minutes. Let cool. When ready to serve, spread or pipe with the frosting and sprinkle with the diced Fuyus.

To make the cake, position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line a 6-inch (15-cm) round cake pan with 2-inch (5-cm) sides with a round of parchment paper cut to fit. Cut a 4-inch (10-cm) wide strip of parchment paper that’s longer than the circumference of the pan and use it to make a collar around the inside of the pan (this will keep the batter from overflowing as it bakes and make the cake easier to unmold). You can skip the collar if baking this in an 8-inch (20-cm) pan.

Place a strainer over a medium bowl and add the almond, sweet rice, oat and millet flours along with the baking soda, cinnamon, cardamom and salt. Sift the dry ingredients into the bowl, adding back in any bits that get caught in the strainer.

Combine the butter and brown sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl a few times. Beat in the egg yolks and vanilla. With the mixer on low, beat in a third of the flour mixture until combined. Beat in half of the persimmon puree until combined. Repeat until you’ve added everything.

In a separate, clean bowl, use a whisk to whip the egg whites until they hold firm peaks when the whisk is lifted out of the bowl. (Hint: This is easier if they’re at room temperature. You can also do this in a clean bowl for your stand mixer with the whip attachment.) As soon as the whites are whipped, stir a third of them into the cake batter. Gently fold in the remaining egg whites until no streaks remain.

Scrape the cake batter into the prepared cake pan (don’t forget the parchment collar if using a 6-inch [15-cm] pan!). Bake the cake until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 60-75 minutes for a 6-inch (15-cm) pan and 50 minutes for an 8-inch (20-cm) pan. Let the cake cool completely in the pan, about 2 hours.

When the cake is cool, us a small offset spatula or butter knife to loosen the edges and bottom from the pan. Invert it into your hand, and pry off the pan. Remove the parchment collar and bottom and discard. Place the cake upright on a board, plate or cake stand (if you have one that rotates, bonus points!). Use a large, serrated knife to trim the top of the cake flat. Mark the cake horizontally into even thirds. With your palm on the top of the cake and the knife held parallel to the work surface, use a sawing motion to cut the cake into thirds as you rotate it, taking care to make the layers as even as possible.

To make the frosting, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, whip together the cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar, vanilla seeds and salt on medium speed until light and fluffy. Be careful not to overbeat, or the mixture could break and become grainy or liquidy. Add the bourbon and beat to incorporate. (Mine always becomes slightly grainy at this point due to the low amount of powdered sugar, but I find that preferable to being too sweet.) The frosting can be covered and kept at cool room temperature for up to a few hours.

For the filling, slice the tops off the Fuyu persimmons and cut them into an even dice about ¼-inch (6-mm) square or a little larger. Place in a small bowl and toss with a squeeze of lemon juice to keep them from oxidizing.

To assemble the cake, place the bottom cake layer on a fresh round of parchment paper or small plate. Lay the other layers on a clean surface. Divide the frosting among the three layers. Starting with the bottom layer, smooth the frosting over the surface, taking it almost to the edge. Top with about a quarter of the diced persimmon, and press the persimmons into the frosting. Top with a second cake layer. Repeat this process, using the remaining half of the diced persimmon to top the cake.

Serve immediately, or, for the cleanest slices, chill the cake for at least 1 hour. The cake is best at room temperature when the butter in the cake and frosting have softened, so let individual slices come to room temperature before enjoying for best results.

The cake is best on the day of baking, but it will keep refrigerated (ideally in a cake dome or large, inverted container) for up to 3 days.

NOTES

✵ To make the Hachiya persimmon puree, make sure your Hachiya persimmons are so squishy-ripe that they feel like water balloons about to burst. I let mine ripen on the counter for at least a week or two, stem side down to protect their delicate bottoms, transferring them to a container in the refrigerator as they ripen. They’ll keep there for up to a week. When ready to bake, cut the blossom off the persimmon, squeeze out the jellylike flesh into a mesh strainer placed over a large bowl, and use a flexible silicone spatula to work the flesh through. It will be the consistency of a runny jelly. This puree can also be frozen to use later.

✵ If you or your cake eaters are sensitive to trace amounts of gluten, be sure to use a certified GF spirit such as Queen Jennie whiskey, or a GF rum or brandy. Otherwise, I like Bulleit bourbon here.

PETITE BLOOD ORANGE CORNMEAL URSIDE-DOWN CAKE

{CORN, SWEET RICE, OAT}

My best friend and I spent our junior year of college studying in Bologna, Italy, at one of the oldest universities in the world. Having lived our whole lives in mild California, and having spent only a couple of summers in Italy, we were in for a rude awakening when the weather turned gray and icy from October all the way through April. Thank goodness for Prosecco, gelati and blood oranges, called aranci tarocchi. That winter, we would buy up the ruby-hued fruits in abundance at the open-air markets (on the rare occasion that it wasn’t raining). After simple, homemade dinners of risotto or pasta, we would sit at the table peeling and eating the oranges, admiring their bright flesh that whispered of the colorful sunsets we hoped to see again someday.

Here, blood orange rounds are bathed in honey butter and baked beneath a sturdy cake flecked with cornmeal to soak up the fruit’s copious red juices. When turned out, the sunny topping reminds me a little of pineapple upside-down cake, only more brightly hued. Serve wedges of cake at room temperature with a cup of tea on a wintry afternoon when you’re longing for sunnier days. It will help. This makes a petite 6-inch (15-cm) cake, but the recipe can be doubled and baked in a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan, increasing the bake time as needed.

MAKES ONE 6-INCH (15-CM) ROUND CAKE, 6 SERVINGS

TOPPING

1½ tbsp (21 g) unsalted butter, in a few pieces, plus 1 tsp for greasing the pan

2 tbsp (30 ml) honey

1 lb (450 g) blood oranges (about 4 medium)

CAKE

4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1 tbsp (15 ml) honey, plus more for drizzling

1 tsp finely grated zest from 1 blood orange (above)

Finely grated zest from ½ large lemon (preferably Meyer)

1 large egg, at room temperature

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) yellow cornmeal (NOT polenta)

¼ cup (60 g) Crème Fraîche or sour cream

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (35 g) GF oat flour

1 tsp baking powder

⅜ tsp fine sea salt

¼ cup or a little more (60 g) chopped blood oranges, from above

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 6-inch (15-cm) round baking pan with 2-inch (5-cm) sides with the 1 teaspoon butter and line the bottom with a 6-inch (15-cm) round of parchment paper. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment for easy cleanup and to catch drips.

To make the topping, place the butter and honey in the pan and put it in the oven to melt together, 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, zest 1 blood orange and set the zest aside to use in the batter. Use a sharp paring knife to slice ¼ inch (6 mm) off the top and bottom of each blood orange. Place cut side down, and, following the curve of the orange, cut away the peel and white pith. Cut the orange crosswise into thin rounds roughly ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Repeat with the remaining oranges.

Using the larger rounds, lay the orange slices over the buttery honey in concentric circles, starting from the outside and overlapping the slices slightly. Fill in the center with a few more slices. Cut any remaining slices into small chunks and reserve for the cake batter (you should have roughly ¼ cup [60 g]).

To make the cake, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl fitted with your arm and a wooden spoon), beat together the softened butter, sugar, honey and blood orange and lemon zests on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally. Beat in the egg, then the cornmeal, then the crème fraîche, stirring until smooth after each addition. (The mixture may look curdled; this is okay.)

Place a mesh strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice and oat flours along with the baking powder and salt. Stir to combine well, then gently fold in the chopped blood oranges.

Dollop the batter over the blood orange slices in the pan, and spread it gently and evenly. Bake the cake until a tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out completely clean, 35-45 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then use a small, offset spatula or thin knife to loosen the cake from the sides of the pan. Invert a plate or small cake stand over the pan, and, wearing oven mitts, flip the whole thing over. Remove the cake pan and gently peel away the parchment.

Let the cake cool to warm, 20 minutes, then drizzle the top with more honey. Cut into wedges and serve slightly warm or at room temperature. The cake is best shortly after baking, but leftovers will keep at room temperature for an additional day, or in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.

VARIATION: PETITE TANGERINE CORNMEAL UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

Omit the blood oranges, using 1 pound (450 g) tangerines or mandarins such as satsumas or clementines (about 4 large) in their place.

NOTE: I prefer the finer grind of Arrowhead Mills’ cornmeal here to Bob’s Red Mill’s coarser GF cornmeal. If that’s what you’ve got, break it up in a coffee grinder before measuring.

VANILLA BEAN CUPCAKES WITH KUMQUAT CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

These sunny cupcakes taste a bit like Creamsicles, with loads of vanilla in the batter and tangy candied kumquats in the topping. The kumquat syrup moistens the cakes, and a slice makes a pretty garnish. The recipe, which I adapted from my dear friend and seasoned gluten-free baker Sarah Menanix, who writes the blog SnixyKitchen.com, turns out the most tender and tasty vanilla cupcakes I’ve ever had. Sweet rice, oat and millet flours create a neutral base with a touch of nutty flavor dotted with vanilla beans and lightened with buttermilk. These are easy to whip up should you have candied kumquats on hand. Alternatively, leave them off and you’ll still have the most killer vanilla cupcakes imaginable.

MAKES 14 CUPCAKES

CUPCAKES

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar Seeds from 1 vanilla bean

2 large eggs, at room temperature

¾ cup (105 g) sweet white rice flour

½ cup (50 g) GF oat flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) millet flour

1½ tsp (6 g) baking powder

½ tsp baking soda

½ tsp fine sea salt

½ cup (120 ml) well-shaken buttermilk

1 tsp vanilla extract

FROSTING

½ cup (130 g) Honey Candied Kumquats in their syrup, plus more for garnish

8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, at room temperature

4 tbsp (56 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¾ cup (85 g) powdered sugar

Pinch of fine sea salt

A few drops of lemon juice, as needed

To make the cupcakes, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line 14 standard muffin cups with paper liners.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon), beat the butter, sugar and vanilla seeds together on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.

In a medium-sized bowl, sift together the sweet rice, oat and millet flours with the baking powder, baking soda and salt.

Divide the batter among the lined muffin cups, filling them two-thirds of the way. Bake until the tops spring back to the touch and a toothpick inserted into the center of one comes out clean or with a few moist crumbs, 20-25 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

To make the frosting, place the kumquats in a strainer set over a bowl and press as much liquid out of them as you can. Reserve the syrup for brushing the cupcakes; you should have 3-4 tablespoons (45-60 ml). Chop the kumquats finely. Beat the cream cheese, butter, powdered sugar and salt together in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until smooth and fluffy, 2-3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally. With the mixer on low, beat in the drained, chopped kumquats. Taste the frosting, adding a few drops of lemon juice if you like to sharpen the flavors.

To finish the cupcakes, poke the tops of the cupcakes several times with a toothpick. Brush with a few coats of the reserved kumquat syrup, letting the syrup soak into the cakes, until you’ve used it all up. Pipe or spread the frosting over the cakes, and top each with a candied kumquat or two. The cakes will keep at cool room temperature for up to a few hours, or refrigerated airtight for a day or two. Serve the cakes at room temperature.