Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin (2016)
COOKIES AND BARS
My first attempt at gluten-free cookies was an epic fail. Not knowing any better, I simply traded the wheat flour for brown rice flour in a classic recipe. The cookies looked fine when they baked up. Ha! I thought. That was easy. I slipped the cookies into a container and brought them to a party, where I proffered them to the hostess. She eagerly dug into the container to lift up a cookie, and her face fell as it crumbled into a million particles. Since then, I’ve learned a thing or two about alternative flour cookies. Namely, they need something sticky to hold them together. Sweet white rice flour helps a lot, as does tapioca flour for chewiness. The plus side is that the doughs can’t be overworked the way that wheat doughs can, meaning that you’ll always have tender cookies (though hopefully not quite so tender as my very first batch).
Here, alternative flours add tastes and textures of their own. Soft chestnut flour makes for the most melt-in-your-mouth brownies imaginable, and it bakes into insanely tasty chocolate chip cookies loaded with browned butter, dark milk chocolate and tart cherries. Buckwheat adds earth and spice to double chocolate cookies, contrasting a whiff of fresh bergamot zest and keeping them extra tender. Teff adds malty depth to classic oatmeal cookies, and coconut flour gives blondies extra chew. Pistachio meal adds its elusive flavor to a shortbread-like base for cheesecake squares, and what would madeleines be without nubby almond flour to keep them moist and light?
Though these recipes are some of the simplest in the book, many are sensitive to slight changes in temperature and measurements. For instance, the oatmeal cookies on took me ten tries to get just right! When making drop cookies, here are some tips for success:
✵ Measure accurately. Use dry measuring cups and spoons for dry ingredients, and use the dip and sweep method. Better yet, invest in a small digital kitchen scale and use weight measurements.
✵ If possible, use the brands of flour suggested (see “Alternative Grains and Flours,” here and here). Different grinds of grains can have dramatic effects on a cookie’s ability to absorb moisture, spread and bake properly.
✵ Make sure your oven is accurate to the best of your knowledge. (See here.)
✵ Bake off a test cookie to check the spread and bake time. This way if something needs adjusting, you have only one imperfect cookie instead of a whole tray. And if you’ve accidentally left out an essential ingredient—say, the leavening or salt—you’ll be able to add it to the rest of the dough. If the cookie doesn’t spread enough, decrease the oven temperature by 25-50°F (5-10°C) and try again. And if it spreads too much, increase the temperature that amount.
✵ If your cookies get close to overbaking, remove them from the sheet pan immediately to stop the cooking. This is extra-easy to do if you bake the cookies on a rimless cookie sheet lined with parchment paper—just slide the whole thing, parchment and all, onto a cooling rack.
✵ Always cool your cookies completely before storing, lest they steam themselves and become brittle or stale.
CHERRY CHESTNUT CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
{CHESTNUT}
These cookies get loads of flavor from vanilla bean brown butter, toasted pecans and plenty of salt, and they bake up with crispy edges and chewy middles that stay soft for days. One tester described them perfectly: “These are SO delicious! I thought they’d taste more like chestnut, but really they just have this incredibly nutty, toasty je ne sais quoi about them that’s enhanced by the pecans and perfectly offset by the tartness of the cherries.” Do feel free to swap out the cherries for dried cranberries, the pecans for walnuts. If you can’t find dark milk chocolate, use a good semisweet or bittersweet bar instead; do be warned that the bitterness of the chocolate will exaggerate the assertive taste of the chestnut flour. Be sure to pull these from the oven when they still seem underbaked; they will continue cooking from residual heat. For fresh-baked cookies on the fly, cover and chill the dough for up to 1 week. When ready to bake, let the dough soften at room temperature for an hour or so, then scoop and bake. Cookies from dough that has chilled bake up extra thick and chewy, while baking the dough freshly made results in thinner cookies with crispier edges. See tips for browning butter.
MAKES ABOUT FOURTEEN 3-INCH (75-CM) COOKIES
½ cup (55 g) raw pecan halves
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
½ cup (110 g) packed organic light brown sugar
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¾ cup (80 g) chestnut flour
¼ cup (30 g) tapioca flour
½ tsp baking soda
½ tsp fine sea salt
1 large egg
6 oz (170 g) dark milk chocolate (35-40% cacao mass), coarsely chopped (1¼ cups)
½ cup (55 g) dried tart cherries
NOTE: These cookies were tested with Calleris chestnut flour, which is darker in color and has an assertive, smoky flavor. If making these with lighter-hued chestnut flour from Ladd Hill Orchards, increase the chestnut flour to 1 cup (105 g). If you find the cookies made with dark chestnut flour too spready, add 2 tablespoons (12 g) oat flour to the dough, and/or chill the dough until firmer, 30 minutes or up to 1 week, before baking.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Line 2 rimless cookie sheets with parchment paper.
Spread the pecans on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast until fragrant and slightly darkened in color, 8-10 minutes. Remove and let cool completely, then break into rough quarters.
Meanwhile, melt the butter and vanilla bean and scrapings together in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Continue to cook, swirling occasionally, until the butter turns golden and smells nutty, 3-5 minutes.
Place the sugars in a large bowl and when the butter has browned, scrape it and any browned bits into the sugar immediately to stop the cooking. Let cool, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla pod and discard (or save for making Vanilla Extract.
Meanwhile, sift together the chestnut and tapioca flours, baking soda and salt into a medium-sized bowl. Set aside.
When the sugar mixture has cooled to warm, beat in the egg until well combined. Use a sturdy wooden spoon to stir the flour mixture into the sugar mixture, stirring until well combined, then continue to stir vigorously for a few more seconds; the mixture will firm up slightly. Stir in the cooled pecans, chopped chocolate and cherries until evenly distributed. If the dough is soft, let it sit at room temperature or in the refrigerator to firm up a bit, 15-30 minutes (or chill for up to 1 week).
Scoop the dough into 1½-inch (4-cm) diameter balls (about 3 tablespoons; a size 24 or 30 spring-loaded ice cream scoop makes this a snap) and place them on the prepared cookie sheets, spacing them 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) apart.
Bake the cookies until the edges are golden and set and the tops are pale golden but still soft and underbaked, 10-14 minutes, rotating the pans back to front and top to bottom after 8 minutes for even baking.
Remove the cookies from the oven, let cool on the pans for a minute, then pull them, parchment and all, onto cooling racks to stop the cooking. They will be very soft and fragile at first, but will firm up when cool. Let cool to warm, at least 10 minutes, before devouring. Cooled cookies can be stored airtight for up to 3 days.
TEFF OATMEAL COOKIES WITH WHISKEY CURRANTS
{TEFF, OATS}
Cookies are one of the simplest sweets you can make, but sometimes they’re the hardest to get just right. These particular cookies took me ten tries! Each time when I was about to give up, I’d take a bite of a failed cookie. Tasting the combination of malty teff, peppery nutmeg and whiskey-kissed currants gave me the inspiration (and sugar high) I needed to soldier on. Luckily, even the failed batches were easy to get rid of. Jay turned into a cookie monster, wandering around the house bellowing, “Mee want cooookie” when there was a lull in production. These cookies bake up thick and chunky with moist middles and a bit of heft from chewy oats and currants. This makes a relatively small batch, so be sure to double the amounts if you need to appease any cookie monsters in your life. Do give yourself an extra 3-4 hours for soaking the currants when making these, or soak them for up to a week ahead of time. If you’re in a hurry, bring the whiskey to a simmer in a small saucepan (being careful not to ignite it if using an open flame), add the currants, cover the pot and let steep for an hour or two until the whiskey is absorbed.
MAKES ABOUT FIFTEEN 2 ½-INCH (6-CM) COOKIES
½ cup (75 g) currants
2 tbsp (30 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)
¾ cup (90 g) walnuts
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (80 g) packed organic light brown sugar
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
1 large egg
½ tsp vanilla extract
¾ cup (100 g) teff flour (I use Bob’s Red Mill)
¼ cup (27 g) tapioca flour
¾ tsp fine sea salt
¼ tsp baking soda
1 tsp lightly packed freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup (90 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats
NOTE: Freshly grated nutmeg tastes infinitely more nuanced and delicious than the pre-ground stuff, which loses volatile oils as it sits.
Combine the currants and bourbon in a jar and let sit to absorb the bourbon, at least 3 hours and up to several days, shaking the jar occasionally.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line 2 rimless cookie sheets with parchment paper. Spread the walnuts on a small sheet pan and toast in the oven until golden and fragrant, 8-10 minutes. Let cool completely, then chop roughly.
Place the butter in a small saucepan and set over low heat to melt, swirling occasionally. Place the sugars in a large bowl and stir in the melted butter. Let cool slightly, 5 minutes, then whisk in the egg and vanilla. Place a strainer over the bowl and add the teff flour, tapioca flour, salt, baking soda and nutmeg. Sift the flour mixture into the butter mixture, then stir vigorously to combine thoroughly. Drain the currants of any excess whiskey (no need to squeeze them dry) and stir them into the dough along with the oats and nuts. If the dough is soft, let it stand at room temperature to firm up, at least 15 minutes or up to 2 hours. The dough can also be chilled for up to several days; bring back to room temperature before proceeding to the next step.
Scoop the dough into 1½-inch (4-cm) diameter balls (about 3 tablespoons; a size 24 or 30 spring-loaded ice cream scoop makes this a snap) and place them on the prepared cookie sheets, spacing them 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) apart. Bake the cookies one pan at a time on the upper rack until the edges of the cookies are golden and set and the tops are pale golden but still soft, 10-15 minutes.
Remove the cookies from the oven and let them cool on the pans. They will be very soft and fragile at first, but will firm up as they cool. These are best the day of baking when the edges are crisp and the centers moist. Cooled cookies can be stored airtight for up to 3 days; they will soften slightly and become more fragile as they sit.
VARIATION: TEFF OATMEAL CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
Omit the currants, whiskey and nutmeg, folding in 6 ounces (168 g) coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate (1¼ cups) along with the nuts.
BUCKWHEAT BERGAMOT DOUBLE CHOCOLATE COOKIES
{BUCKWHEAT}
These little chocolate pillows are essentially brownies masquerading as cookies, packed with the flavors of citrusy fresh bergamot, nutty buckwheat flour and crunchy flakes of Maldon salt. Whipping the eggs with the sugar lends an airy texture, and plenty of warm butter and chocolate give the tops a pretty, glazed crackle. The trick to the crackly tops is to have the melted chocolate/butter mixture hot enough to partially dissolve the sugar but not so hot as to cook the eggs or melt the chocolate chunks once added. The mixture should feel pleasantly warm, but not scalding hot, to the touch.
If you don’t have access to fresh bergamots, use orange zest in its place. Or you can leave out the citrus altogether and you’ll still have the most divine chocolate cookies imaginable.
MAKES ABOUT THIRTY 2-INCH (5-CM) COOKIES
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
12 oz (345 g) bittersweet chocolate (60-70% cacao mass), chopped (about 2¼ cups), plus several chunks for the tops of the cookies
1½ tsp (1 g) packed finely grated zest from 1 medium bergamot (or orange)
½ cup (65 g) buckwheat flour
2 tbsp (15 g) tapioca flour
¾ tsp baking powder
2 large eggs, at room temperature
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (130 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
Flaky salt such as Maldon, for the tops
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line 2 rimless cookie sheets with parchment paper.
Place the butter in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan set over the lowest possible heat. Add 8 ounces (230 g) of the chocolate and the bergamot zest, and melt together, stirring frequently to prevent the chocolate from scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is pleasantly warm, but not super hot, to the touch. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Sift the buckwheat flour, tapioca flour and baking powder into a small bowl and set aside.
Meanwhile, place the eggs, sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and whip on medium-high speed until the mixture is very light and fluffy, 5 minutes. Turn the mixer to low and stir in the vanilla until just combined, then the warm chocolate butter mixture. Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a flexible silicone spatula to fold in the remaining 4 ounces (115 g) chopped chocolate.
If the batter is very runny, let it cool for a few minutes until it firms to the consistency of a thick brownie batter. Use a #40 spring-loaded ice cream scoop or 2 spoons to drop heaping tablespoons of batter onto the prepared baking sheets, spacing them at least 2 inches (5 cm) apart. Top each cookie with a few chunks of chocolate and a few flecks of flaky salt.
Bake the cookies until puffed and cracked and the edges are set, 8-12 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and top to bottom halfway through baking. Let cool on the pans. Enjoy warm or at room temperature. The cookies are best the day of baking but will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.
MESQUITE GINGERSNAPS OR GINGER CATS
{SWEET RICE, MESQUITE}
The bright, spicy flavors of cinnamon and ginger complement earthy mesquite flour beautifully, so I shoved them all into these buttery cookies, which can take on many shapes. Chill the dough and cut them into gingersnaps, gingerbread guys and gals or (my personal favorite) ginger cats! I scored my cat cutters from the originator of ginger cat cookies, fellow orange tabby mom and gluten-free food blogger Sarah Menanix of SnixyKitchen.com. These thin, crisp cookies can be crumbled into Banana Butterscotch Pudding or crushed into a crust for Nectarine Cheesecakes. The chewy version below makes killer ice cream sandwiches.
MAKES ABOUT 36 COOKIES
12 tbsp (170 g) unsalted butter, softened but cool
⅔ cup (130 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ cup (60 ml) unsulfured blackstrap molasses
1 large egg
1 cup (155 g) sweet white rice flour, plus extra for rolling the cookies
1 cup (125 g) mesquite flour
¼ cup (25 g) cornstarch
¾ tsp baking soda
1 tsp powdered ginger
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp fine sea salt
VARIATION: CHEWY DOUBLE-GINGER MOLASSES COOKIES
Make the dough as directed, stirring ½ cup (70 g) finely chopped crystallized ginger into the finished dough. Cover and chill the dough until firm, 1 hour and up to 3 days prior to baking. Place ½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar in a shallow bowl. Scoop the dough into 1-inch (2.5-cm) diameter balls, roll in the sugar and place on sheet pans spaced 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cm) apart. Bake the cookies one pan at a time until the edges are golden and the centers are soft and cracked, 10-14 minutes.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a wooden spoon), beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add the molasses, then the egg, beating to combine after each. Place a mesh strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice and mesquite flours with the cornstarch, baking soda, ginger, cinnamon and salt. Return to the mixer and beat on low speed until well combined, then give the bowl a final scrape on the bottom and sides with a flexible spatula to make sure the dough is homogenous. (If making Chewy Double-Ginger Molasses Cookies, skip to the directions in the variation, below.)
For gingersnaps, divide the dough in half and place each half on a large piece of plastic wrap. Flatten into disks roughly ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick, and wrap and chill until firm, at least 1-2 hours and up to 3 days.
When ready to bake, position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 325°F (165°C). Line 2-3 cookie sheets with parchment paper. Unwrap 1 portion of dough and place it between 2 pieces of parchment paper dusted lightly with rice flour. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough to ¼-inch (6-mm) thick, dusting with flour as needed to keep the dough from sticking, turning and flipping the dough and parchment paper as you work and dusting off excess flour with a pastry brush. Slide the whole thing onto a baking sheet and chill again until firm, 15-30 minutes. Repeat with the other half of the dough.
Peel away the top piece of parchment, make sure the dough isn’t sticking to the bottom piece and use cookie cutters to cut out shapes as close together as possible, placing the cookies on the prepared cookie sheets spaced 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. If the cookies are soft after cutting, chill them again until firm; this will help them hold their shape. Press dough scraps together and repeat the rolling/chilling/cutting process until you’ve used up all the dough.
Bake the cookies one sheet at a time until fairly set and beginning to color around the edges, 8-12 minutes. They will still be soft and slightly puffed, but will settle down and crisp up when cool. Watch closely, as these go from baked to burnt in no time. If your cookies are still soft after cooling, return them to the oven for a few more minutes to crisp them up. Let cool, then store airtight at room temperature for up to 3 days.
VARIATION: BUCKWHEAT GINGERSNAPS
Omit the mesquite flour, using ½ cup (70 g) buckwheat flour and ¼ cup (25 g) oat flour. Follow directions for either the gingersnaps or the Chewy Double-Ginger Molasses Cookies.
PISTACHIO LIME AND MATCHA SNOWBALLS
{ALMOND, OAT}
I have my sweetie’s mother, Mary, to thank for showing me the way to perfect snowballs. Also known as polvorones or Russian tea cakes, these orbs of nutty dough encased in powdered sugar are some of my favorite cookies both to make and to eat. There’s something meditative about shaping the dough into balls and rolling them—twice—in powdered sugar. As the sugar absorbs moisture from the baked cookies, it transforms into an icing of sorts, giving way to a sandy shortbread full of nuts and gently sweetened.
These snowballs get a verdant update from green pistachios, lime zest and matcha green tea powder, which, along with a generous dose of salt, create layers of flavor. A trio of flours—almond, oat and tapioca—create a neutral backdrop and a melt-in-the-mouth texture that will leave you hungry for more. These cookies store well, making them ideal for holiday gift-giving, but good luck making them last that long …
MAKES ABOUT THIRTY-TWO 1½-INCH (3.8-CM) COOKIES
½ cup (100 g) organic granulated cane sugar Zest from 3 large limes (about 4 packed tsp [8 g])
1 cup (125 g) blanched almond flour
½ cup (55 g) oat flour
¼ cup (30 g) tapioca flour/starch
1 tbsp (4 g) culinary-grade matcha, plus extra for sprinkling
½ tsp fine sea salt (not table salt)
1 cup (125 g) raw pistachios, chopped semi-fine into ⅛-¼-inch (3-6-mm) pieces
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter, diced
¾ cup (90 g) powdered sugar
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and add the lime zest. Mix on low speed until the sugar is moistened, 1-2 minutes. Add the almond, oat and tapioca flours, matcha powder, salt and chopped pistachios and mix on low speed to combine, 30 seconds. Scatter the butter pieces over the top and mix on medium-low speed until the butter is completely incorporated and the dough comes together in large clumps, 3-5 minutes.
Sift the powdered sugar into a shallow bowl. Form tablespoon-sized 1-inch (2.5-cm) balls of dough and roll them in the powdered sugar, knocking off any large clumps. Place the balls on the baking sheet, spacing them at least 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart. Bake the cookies until puffed, cracked and slightly golden, 15-20 minutes. The cookies will be soft at first but will crisp up when cool.
Let the cookies cool completely on the pan, then roll each one a second time in the powdered sugar. Dust the tops with a bit of matcha pushed through a small strainer. They will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 1 week.
TANGERINE VANILLA BEAN MADELEINES
{ALMOND, MILLET, SWEET RICE}
Madeleines intimidated me for many years, and the madeleine pan I impulse-bought once at a cookware store sat neglected at the bottom of the cupboard for years. I may have made one batch in the beginning and, finding them bland and high-maintenance, gave up. Then one day in my food readings, I learned that madeleines can be flavored with brown butter and ground almonds, similar to financiers—which are neither bland nor high-maintenance—and my curiosity was piqued. Using a gluten-free recipe from one of my favorite sites, London Bakes, as a springboard, thus began my Proustian love affair with the elusive cookies.
Unlike my first madeleine trial of yore, these get a kick of flavor from tangerine zest and butter browned with vanilla, and the batter comes together easily with one bowl and a whisk. Madeleines are undeniably adorable to look at and, when coated in a thin glaze kissed with vanilla bean and tangerine juice, they take on the appearance of pretty shells found by the sea. I keep the cookies on the less-sweet side to complement the glaze, but you can also finish them with a light dusting of powdered sugar if you prefer. Unlike most madeleines, these keep well for up to several days, the glaze and almond flour locking in moisture. Do let the batter rest in the fridge for at least an hour to firm up the melted butter, and be sure to use a pastry brush dipped in room-temperature butter to paint the crevices of the madeleine molds. My madeleine pan has 12 molds, so I make these in two rounds. If you lack madeleine molds, give these a try in mini muffin pans for tiny fairy cakelets.
MAKES 18 MADELEINES
MADELEINES
7 tbsp (100 g) unsalted butter, plus 1-2 tbsp (14-28 g) very soft (not melted) unsalted butter, for the pan
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 tsp (10 g) finely grated tangerine zest (from 3-4 tangerines)
2 large eggs
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ cup (60 g) almond flour
¼ cup plus 3 tbsp (60 g) millet flour
¼ cup plus 1 tbsp (50 g) sweet white rice flour
1 tsp (5 g) baking powder
GLAZE
1 cup (110 g) powdered sugar Seeds from ½ vanilla bean
2-3 tbsp (30-45 ml) strained fresh tangerine juice (as needed to make a runny glaze)
To make the madeleines, in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, melt the 7 tablespoons (100 g) butter with the vanilla pod and scrapings over medium heat, swirling occasionally. After 3-5 minutes, the butter will foam up, then turn golden and smell nutty. Watch it closely at this point so it doesn’t burn. When the butter has browned, remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Remove the vanilla pod and discard.
Place the sugar and tangerine zest in a large bowl and use your fingertips to rub the zest into the sugar until moistened; this helps draw out the citrus oils. Whisk in the eggs and salt. Place a strainer over the top of the bowl and add the almond, millet and sweet rice flours and baking powder. Sift in the dry ingredients, adding back any bits left in the strainer. Stir the flour into the egg mixture until well combined, then whisk in the slightly cooled brown butter and any good stuff hanging out on the bottom of the pan. Cover the dough and chill until firm, 1 hour or up to overnight.
When ready to bake, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Use a pastry brush to coat the molds of a madeleine pan generously with some of the remaining 1-2 tablespoons (14-28 g) softened butter. Fill the molds three-quarters full with the batter; it will be rather firm. I find it easiest to place a scant scoop of batter from a spring-loaded #40 ice cream scoop in the molds and flatten the batter out with my fingers; a small spoon or a piping bag fitted with a large, plain tip are other good options.
Bake the madeleines until they spring back to the touch, 8-12 minutes. Let cool slightly, then carefully loosen from their molds (a small offset spatula can help) and place, pretty side up, on a rack to cool. Wipe the madeleine pan clean and repeat the buttering/battering/baking process to make the rest of the cookies.
To make the glaze, in a small bowl, whisk together the powdered sugar, vanilla seeds and enough tangerine juice to make a glaze that’s the consistency of heavy cream. While the madeleines are still slightly warm, dip the shell-shaped side in the glaze, coating it completely and letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Place glaze side up on the rack and let set until firm, 20 minutes. The madeleines are best the day of baking but will keep, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.
CHESTNUT BROWNIES
{CHESTNUT}
It’s always a win when an alternative flour doesn’t just match its glutinous counterpart but actually bests it. Such is the case with these brownies, which are adapted from a favorite Alice Medrich recipe. Chestnut flour gives the middles a velvety texture that wheat-based brownies only dream of, and it adds its own earthy sweetness, blending seamlessly with copious amounts of butter and chocolate. If you make these, I warn you that you may be hard-pressed to ever use a more mundane flour in brownies again. That said, buckwheat and teff flours both complement chocolate and can likely take the place of the harder to find chestnut flour here. Like the double chocolate cookieswhipping the eggs with sugar adds lightness to the batter, making leavening unnecessary. The trick to the pretty tops is to have the chocolate-butter mixture fairly warm when you add it to the eggs. These keep well for up to several days. Turn them into a grown-up ice cream sundae topped with port-roasted strawberries and ice cream.
MAKES 16 SMALL BUT RICH BROWNIES
6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
8 oz (230 g) bittersweet chocolate (60-70% cacao mass), chopped (about 1½ cups)
½ cup (50 g) chestnut flour
2 tbsp (15 g) tapioca flour
3 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup (150 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
1 tsp vanilla extract
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossed pieces of parchment paper cut to fit widthwise, leaving an overhang on each side. This will make the brownies easy to remove from the pan.
Place the butter in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan set over the lowest possible heat. Add the chocolate and let melt together, stirring frequently to prevent the chocolate from scorching. Continue cooking until the mixture is pleasantly warm, but not super hot, to the touch. Remove from the heat and keep warm. Sift the chestnut and tapioca flours into a small bowl and set aside (chestnut flour tends to clump, so don’t skip this step).
Meanwhile, place the eggs, sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and whip on medium-high speed until the mixture is very light and fluffy, 5 minutes. Turn the mixer to low and stir in the vanilla until just combined, then the warm chocolate-butter mixture. Add the flour mixture and mix on low until combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer and use a flexible silicone spatula to give the batter a final stir by hand, scraping the bottom of the bowl and making sure all the flour is incorporated.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth into an even layer. Bake the brownies until the top is puffed and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out with moist crumbs, 24-30 minutes, taking care not to overbake. Let the brownies cool completely, then use the parchment handles to lift them out of the pan and onto a cutting board. Use a sharp chef’s knife dipped in hot water and wiped clean between each cut to slice the brownies into 16 squares.
The brownies keep well, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days, or refrigerated for up to 5 days.
CASHEW LIME BLONDIES
{SWEET RICE, COCONUT}
One of my favorite childhood treats was a soft and chewy drop cookie flavored with plenty of brown sugar and packed with white chocolate and macadamia nuts. I have a distinct memory of nomming them on the way home from day camp one summer, purchased from Gelson’s market in Los Angeles by my dad. Now that my taste buds are a bit more grown up, I like hefty doses of flaky salt and lime to cut the sweet richness of white chocolate, and I make sure to get the good stuff made with cacao butter and plenty of vanilla. Green & Black’s is my preferred brand, which is organic and flecked with vanilla bean. Since macadamias can be difficult to find, I trade them out for toasted cashews. Coconut flour is the magic ingredient that makes these extra dense, moist and chewy, adding a tropical note without the bothersome texture of shredded coconut and setting off the brown sugar cookie bars beautifully. Organic dark brown sugar has the extra moisture and molasses that we want here, but light brown sugar should work in a pinch. I like these best the day after baking, when the flavor of the lime zest becomes more pronounced.
MAKES SIXTEEN 2-INCH (5-CM) BLONDIES
¾ cup (105 g) raw cashews
8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter
Finely grated zest from 2 medium limes
½ cup plus 2 tbsp (125 g) packed organic dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
¼ cup plus 1 tbsp (45 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup (30 g) coconut flour
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp fine sea salt
4 oz (120 g) good-quality white chocolate (such as Green & Black’s), coarsely chopped (1 scant cup)
¼-½ tsp flaky salt (such as Maldon)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan with parchment paper.
Spread the cashews on a small, rimmed baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden, 5-7 minutes. Remove and let cool, then chop coarsely.
Meanwhile, place the butter in a small saucepan and set over low heat to melt. Zest the limes directly into the pot and cook for a few minutes to infuse the butter, swirling the pan occasionally. Place the brown sugar in a large bowl and stir in the melted butter mixture. Let the mixture cool to warm, 5 minutes, then stir in the egg and vanilla until combined. Set a strainer over the bowl and sift in the sweet rice and coconut flours along with the baking powder and sea salt. Stir vigorously until well combined, then stir in the chopped cashews and white chocolate.
Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and use a small offset spatula to spread it evenly. Sprinkle the top with the flaky salt. Bake the blondies until puffed, shiny and slightly cracked on top, and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out with a few large, wet crumbs clinging, 18-22 minutes. Let the blondies cool completely, then remove from the pan, peel away the parchment and use a large, sharp chef’s knife to trim away the outer ¼ inch (6 mm) and cut into 16 bars. Store the blondies, airtight at room temperature, for up to 3 days.
BERRY CHÈVRE CHEESECAKE SQUARES WITH PISTACHIO SHORTBREAD CRUST
{SWEET RICE, MILLET}
I could pretty much live off of goat cheese at every meal, including and especially dessert! Here, fresh chèvre adds a touch of sophistication to a creamy cheesecake base wrapped around fresh summer berries, all perched atop a crumbly pistachio-millet flour crust. Bring these to a party and watch them disappear—they’re a true crowd-pleaser. These bars come together easily, with both components being made in a food processor, and they are less fussy to bake than a large, round cheesecake, as cracking isn’t an issue. They take about 1½ hours total to assemble and bake, plus an additional 4 hours to cool and chill, so plan accordingly. Most of this time is inactive, and the bars can be made a day or two ahead of time, a boon for dinner parties and potlucks. If you’re not a goat cheese fan like I am, feel free to make this with 1 pound (450 g) of cream cheese. These bars also work well with huckleberries or wild blueberries. For thinner bars, bake these in a 9 by 12-inch (23 by 30-cm) pan, adjusting the bake times as needed.
MAKES 16 LARGE OR 24 SMALLER BARS
CRUST
¾ cup (100 g) shelled raw pistachios, plus extra for decorating
½ cup (80 g) sweet white rice flour
½ cup (75 g) millet flour
3 tbsp (20 g) tapioca flour
⅓ cup (65 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp fine sea salt
8 tbsp (113 g) cold, unsalted butter, cubed
1 tsp vanilla extract
FILLING
8 oz (230 g) fresh soft goat cheese, at room temperature
8 oz (230 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
¾ cup (165 g) organic granulated cane sugar
2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)
Finely grated zest from 1 small lemon
¼ tsp fine sea salt
3 large eggs, at room temperature
¼ cup (60 ml) heavy cream, sour cream or Crème Fraîche
1 cup (130 g) raspberries, plus extra, halved, for decorating
1 cup (140 g) blueberries, plus extra for decorating
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossed pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil, leaving an overhang on each side. This will help you lift the bars out of the pan after baking, making cutting easier.
To make the crust, place the pistachios, sweet rice flour, millet flour, tapioca flour, sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Scatter the butter pieces over the top, sprinkle over the vanilla and pulse until the mixture begins to form large, coarse crumbs and holds together when squeezed, about 30 seconds. Dump the mixture into the lined pan, and use your hands to press it into an even layer. Bake the crust until golden and puffed, 25-35 minutes. Remove from the oven and gently press the hot crust down with the back of a spoon or the bottom of a flat measuring cup; this will help it hold together when sliced.
Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C).
To make the filling, wipe the food processor clean. Add the goat and cream cheeses, sugar, sweet rice flour, vanilla bean seeds, lemon zest and salt and blend just until smooth, 5-10 seconds. Add the eggs one at a time, processing until just smooth after each egg, and scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl to prevent lumps. Add the cream and process briefly just until smooth. Scrape once more, and blend again if at all lumpy, taking care not to overprocess the mixture.
Scatter the berries evenly over the cooled crust, and pour the filling over, distributing it evenly. Bake the cheesecake until the edges are set and the center wobbles very slightly when you give the pan a gentle shake, 30-45 minutes. Remove to a cooling rack and let cool for 1 hour, then cover and chill for at least 3 hours or overnight, until firm and cold.
Gently loosen the sides of the cheesecake with a thin knife or offset spatula, and use the parchment paper handles to carefully lift the cheesecake out of the pan and onto a cutting board. Fill a pitcher with hot tap water and have some paper towels handy, or an old (but clean) dishtowel that you don’t mind getting stained. With a large, sharp chef’s knife dipped in the hot water and wiped completely dry between each cut, cut the cheesecake into bars.
Place each bar in a paper muffin liner if you like, arrange on a platter, and top with a pistachio, a halved raspberry and a blueberry. Cover and chill until needed. The bars are best within a day or two of baking when the crust is crisp, but extras store well, refrigerated airtight, for up to 4 days.
MEYER LEMON BARS WITH VANILLA-ALMOND CRUST
{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, MILLET}
Few baked goods get me grumpy like a bad lemon bar. At their worst, the crust is pale, bland and pasty. The topping is often a thin, gummy gel of overcooked curd. Since lemon curd needs sugar to help it set, the whole thing can be unbearably sweet to boot. These bars, on the other hand, boast a buttery-crisp crust laced with almond flour and vanilla, with a bit of added flavor from millet and vanilla bean seeds. A creamy, softly set topping bursts with the sunny flavor of Meyer lemons, a tangerine-lemon hybrid that grows abundantly throughout California. Meyers have a thinner, brighter skin that smells like flowers and sunshine, and their plentiful juice tastes sweeter than that of regular (Eureka) lemons. If you’re Meyer-less, I’ve included a version of these bars made with regular lemon and orange juices below. And if you’re lucky enough to possess a fresh bergamot, its zest and juice will make for the most fragrant lemon bars you’ve ever tasted.
Do note that the soft topping means that these bars need to be kept refrigerated, and be sure to allow a few hours for the initial chilling before cutting and serving the bars. You will need approximately 5 large Meyer lemons for this recipe.
MAKES 16 SMALL BUT RICH BARS
CRUST
½ cup (60 g) almond flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) millet flour
Seeds from 1 vanilla bean (or 1 tsp vanilla extract)
¼ cup (50 g) organic granulated cane sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
5 tbsp (70 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
LEMON CURD
8 tbsp (113 g) cool, unsalted butter, in ½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
2½ tsp (10 g) firmly packed finely grated Meyer lemon zest (from 2-3 large Meyer lemons)
1 cup plus 2 tbsp (225 g) organic granulated cane sugar
3 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
¾ cup plus 2 tbsp (205 ml) strained Meyer lemon juice (from 4-5 large Meyer lemons)
Powdered sugar, for dusting (optional)
To make the crust, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan with 2 crisscrossed pieces of parchment paper or aluminum foil, leaving an overhang on each side. This will help you lift the bars out of the pan after baking, making cutting easier.
In the bowl of a food processor, whizz together the almond, sweet rice and millet flours with the vanilla bean seeds, sugar, salt and cold butter until it begins to form large clumps, about 30 seconds. Dump the crumbs into the lined baking pan and pack it firmly and evenly with your hands or a flat-bottomed glass. Bake the crust until light golden all over and toasty smelling, 20-25 minutes. Use the back of a spoon to press the crust down firmly; this will help it hold together when the bars are cut.
Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C).
To make the curd, set a mesh strainer over a heatproof bowl or large measuring cup and set aside. Place the cool diced butter and lemon zest in a small bowl and set aside.
In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, whisk together the sugar, eggs and egg yolks to combine. Whisk in the lemon juice. Place the pot over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly with a heatproof silicone spatula, until the mixture thickens slightly and reaches 160°F (71°C) on an instant-read thermometer, 5-10 minutes. As you stir, be sure to scrape the entire bottom and corners of the pan, so that the mixture heats as evenly as possible. It will start out thick and cloudy from the undissolved sugar, then will turn thin and translucent and finally begin to thicken and turn cloudy again as the eggs cook. If the mixture starts to curdle or bubble, immediately remove it from the heat and proceed to the next step.
Immediately pour the curd through the strainer and into the bowl to stop the cooking. Whisk in the butter pieces and zest until combined.
Pour the cooked curd over the warm, baked crust. Bake the bars until the sides are barely puffed and the center wobbles like firm Jell-O when you give it a gentle shake, 18-25 minutes. It should not be wet or watery looking (underbaked), nor should it be puffed in the center or cracking (overbaked). Remove the bars from the oven and let cool for about 30 minutes, then chill until firm, 2-3 hours.
Grasp the parchment and lift the bars from the pan and onto a cutting board; peel away the sides of the parchment. Trim away the outer edges of the bars, then use a large chef’s knife to cut the bar into 16 squares, wiping the blade clean between cuts. Just before serving, dust the tops with a bit of powdered sugar.
The bars keep well, refrigerated, for up to 3 days, though the crust is the crispiest within the first 1-2 days.
VARIATIONS
BERGAMOT AND MEYER LEMON BARS
Fresh bergamots are becoming easier to find in specialty grocers when they come into season during the winter months, and their zest and juice make for a spectacularly unique lemon bar.
Use 1½ teaspoons (5 g) lemon zest and ½ teaspoon bergamot zest. Use ¾ cup (180 ml) Meyer lemon juice and 2 tablespoons (30 ml) bergamot juice. Make the recipe as instructed.
NO-MEYER LEMON BARS
A mix of orange juice and zest added to regular lemon juice and zest makes superb lemon bars, for those who don’t have Meyers readily available. Do be sure to use freshly squeezed juice from regular (Eureka) lemons and a Valencia or navel orange.
Omit the Meyer lemon zest and juice, using instead 1 teaspoon each lemon and orange zests, ½ cup (120 ml) lemon juice, and ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 ml) orange juice.
SWEET POTATO BOURBON CHEESECAKE BITES WITH MESQUITE-PECAN CRUST
{SORGHUM, SWEET RICE, MESQUITE }
Mesquite’s uniquely warm, earthy flavor pairs seamlessly with roasted sweet potatoes and freshly grated nutmeg, all rolled up in these dainty cheesecake bites. Keeping with the Southern theme, I add a splash of bourbon to the filling, and pecans and sorghum flour to the crust, which, when baked, reminds me of really amazing graham crackers. They make an ideal treat for holiday parties and potlucks. In fact, the nutmegy filling reminds me a little of eggnog crossed with pumpkin pie. These are deceptively simple to make, as the crust and filling can both be done in a food processor, with the sour cream whipped just before serving. Do be sure to allow a few hours for the bars to chill in the fridge to a sliceable consistency. They keep well for up to 3 days; in fact, they just seem to get better and better.
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20-CM) SQUARE CHEESECAKE, 25 BITE-SIZED SERVINGS
CRUST
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) sorghum flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (50 g) sweet white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (35 g) mesquite flour
½ cup (55 g) pecan halves
6 tbsp (70 g) packed organic light brown sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
5 tbsp (70 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ½-inch (1.3-cm) dice
FILLING
1 cup (235 ml) packed roasted sweet potato flesh (see Notes)
8 oz (225 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
½ cup (100 g) packed organic light brown sugar
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp packed freshly grated nutmeg
2 large eggs
2 tbsp (30 ml) sour cream
1 tsp vanilla extract
2 tbsp (30 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)
TOPPING
½ cup (120 ml) sour cream
½ cup (120 ml) heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp (12 g) organic granulated cane sugar
½ tsp vanilla extract
2 tsp (10 ml) bourbon or GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie)
A handful toasted pecans, for garnish
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch (20-cm) square baking pan—or a 9-inch (23-cm) pan for slightly thinner bars—with a large piece of parchment paper or heavy-duty aluminum foil, leaving a 1-inch (2-cm) overhang on every side.
To make the crust, in the bowl of a food processor, whizz together the sorghum, sweet rice and mesquite flours with the pecans, brown sugar, salt and butter until it begins to clump together and looks like damp sand, about 30 seconds. Dump the crumbs into the lined baking pan and pack it firmly and evenly with your hands or a flat-bottomed glass. (No need to wash the food processor bowl—you’ll use it again in the next step.) Bake the crust until golden and toasty smelling, 15-20 minutes.
Decrease the oven temperature to 325°F (165°C).
Meanwhile, to make the filling, in the bowl of the food processor, puree the sweet potato smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl a few times. Add the cream cheese and puree smooth, then blend in the brown sugar, salt and nutmeg, pulsing until just smooth and combined, scraping down the sides of the bowl a few times. Add the eggs one at a time, pulsing until just combined after each addition. (Be careful not to overwork the cream cheese—doing so can break down the proteins and cause the mixture to become thin and watery.) Add the sour cream, vanilla and bourbon, pulsing to just combine. Remove the blade from the bowl, and give the mixture a final stir with a flexible spatula to make sure it’s thoroughly combined.
Spread the cheesecake batter evenly over the hot crust and rap the pan on the counter a few times to pop any large air bubbles. Place the cheesecake in the oven on the lower rack. Bake for 25-35 minutes, until the sides are gently puffed and the cheesecake is set when you give it a shake. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the center should register 165°F-170°F (74°C-76°C). Let cool completely, then chill until firm, at least 3 hours and up to 1 day.
To cut the bars, grab the parchment paper handles and pull the whole thing out of the pan and onto a cutting board; it’s okay if the crust cracks a little. Peel away the sides of the parchment. Use a large, sharp chef’s knife, wiped clean after each cut, to trim away the edges, then cut the cheesecake into 25 squares. Cover and chill until ready to serve.
To make the topping, in a large bowl with a balloon whisk (or with a handheld blender or stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment), whip together the sour cream, heavy cream and sugar until it holds soft peaks. Add the vanilla and bourbon, and whip until it holds soft peaks again.
Serve small squares of the cheesecake topped with dollops of the whipped cream and pecan pieces.
NOTES
✵ To roast the sweet potatoes, place 2 medium garnet or jewel sweet potatoes on a small, rimmed baking sheet, prick them a few times with the tines of a fork and bake them in a 375°F (190°C) oven until very soft when squeezed with a pair of tongs, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely, then scoop the flesh out of the skin and into a measuring cup. (Extra sweet potato is delicious warm with a dollop of sour cream—a little treat for the baker.)
✵ If you or your cheesecake biters are highly sensitive to trace amounts of gluten, be sure to source a GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie). Otherwise, I like a tipple of Bulleit bourbon here. You can also leave off the booze altogether, or substitute GF brandy or dark or spiced rum.