The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs: An Essential Guide to the Flavors of the World - Padma Lakshmi (2016)

SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z

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PREVIOUS SPREAD, FROM LEFT: la kama, licorice root sticks, lavender, lemon verbena, licorice root, dried lemongrass slices (two forms), and fresh lemongrass

LA KAMA

La kama is a Moroccan spice blend that is a far simpler combination than the more well-known ras el hanout. A typical version consists of black pepper, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, and nutmeg, but, as with many North African spice blends, the ingredients can vary from cook to cook (or spice merchant to spice merchant). Some blends also contain mace; others omit the cinnamon and add cumin. La kama has a warm, very aromatic, peppery fragrance and a sweet-hot taste. It is used in tagines made with lamb, chicken, or fish and in many stews and soups, notably harira, traditionally served to break the Ramadan fast. La kama can also be used as a rub for grilled lamb, chicken, or fish.

LAVENDER

BOTANICAL NAMES: Lavandula angustifolia, L. officinalis (English); L. dentata (French)

FORMS: fresh and dried flowers and buds

Lavender, a member of the mint family, is one of most aromatic of all herbs. There are many different species, but all are native to the Mediterranean; English and French lavender are the types preferred for cooking. Lavender is mentioned in the Bible, and it was used by the ancient Greeks and Romans. Today, France is the major producer, and beautiful fields of lavender in bloom, with its fragrant purple flowers, are a part of the landscape of southern France.

The flowers and buds of the plant, not the leaves, are used. Their intense fragrance is sweet and floral, and their flavor is also floral, with camphor-like, piney undertones. Dried lavender is almost as potent as fresh. Lavender is well-known for its use in soaps, potpourri, and the like, but it does have a place in the kitchen. It helps cut the richness of fatty meats and game, and it can be used, on its own or with other dried herbs, as a rub for grilled or roasted meats. It is one of the ingredients in the classic French blend herbes de Provence. Lavender is also good in desserts and is often infused in cream or milk to be used as the base of a custard or ice cream. Lavender shortbread cookies and scones are delicious.

LEMON VERBENA

BOTANICAL NAME: Aloysia triphylla (formerly Lippia citriodora)

FORMS: fresh and dried leaves

Lemon verbena is a shrub that is native to South America; it was brought to Europe by Spanish explorers and is now grown widely in France, as well as in England. It is related to verbena, Verbena officinalis (also called vervain or, in France, verveine), but the two should not be confused. Lemon verbena can grow to as tall as 15 feet. Its pale green leaves are about ½ inch long, narrow, pointed, and wonderfully aromatic. They have an intense lemon fragrance and taste, without the citrus acidity. The dried leaves retain their scent and flavor well.

Lemon verbena is used in potpourri and similar fragrant herb mixtures; the dried leaves are often made into a tisane, or restorative tea. In cooking, it can be added to the poaching liquid for fish or chicken, and because of its strong lemon flavor, some sources suggest it as a substitute for lemongrass in Asian dishes when that is unavailable. But lemon verbena is more often used in desserts. It can be infused into the liquid for custards or ice cream or made into a fragrant citrus curd. It can also be used in the syrup for poached fruit or to flavor a creamy rice pudding. It adds a bright note to summer drinks and other beverages.

LEMONGRASS

BOTANICAL NAME: Cymbopogon citratus

FORMS: fresh and sliced or ground dried stalks

Lemongrass is a tall tropical grass native to Asia; it is now also grown in central Africa, South America, the West Indies, India, and in the United States, Florida. The fibrous stalks are very fragrant—lemongrass contains citral, a compound that is also found in lemon peel. The lower parts of the stalks have the most flavor. Dried lemongrass is sold sliced into rings or ground into a powder; unfortunately, it loses much of its fresh, clean, lemony aroma and taste when dried.

Lemongrass is widely used in Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Indonesian, and other Asian cuisines. It is sometimes found in markets under its Indonesian name, sereh. Dried lemongrass can be substituted for fresh in some soups and stews; if using the powder, add it sparingly. Dried lemongrass can be used to infuse boiling water to make a refreshing herbal tea.

LICORICE ROOT

BOTANICAL NAME: Glycyrrhiza glabra

OTHER NAMES: sweetroot, sweetwood

FORMS: sliced dried root, sticks, and powder

Licorice is an herbaceous annual in the bean family. Native to the Middle East, southwestern Asia, and southern Europe, it has been valued for medicinal and culinary uses since ancient times. The Greek name for licorice means “sweet root.” There are other varieties of Glycyrrhiza, but G. glabra is the type preferred for use in the kitchen. Today, licorice is grown throughout the Middle East and Asia, in southern Europe, and in the western United States.

Although the plant develops small pods containing five seeds each, only the roots are used. They are harvested once the plants are three or four years old, cleaned, trimmed, and dried. The straight lengths of the roots are sold as licorice sticks (not to be confused with dark black licorice sticks that are actually dried concentrated licorice extract). The remaining roots are sliced, chopped, or ground into a powder or used to make licorice extract. The dried roots have brown skin and a pale tan interior; powdered licorice is pale brown to grayish-green. The roots smell like tobacco—licorice is actually used as a flavoring agent in cigarettes—but immediately release a sweet taste when bitten into; the flavor is similar to that of fennel or anise. The powder is very pungent. (It attracts moisture readily, so it should be stored in an airtight container.)

Licorice root has been used since Greek and Roman times, prescribed to soothe sore throats and coughs, chewed on for its sweet taste, and brewed into a refreshing drink. Today, it is important in the confectionery industry, but its medicinal benefits have overshadowed its culinary use in most countries, including India as well as China, where it was well-known to herbalists centuries ago. However, licorice is an ingredient in some Asian master stocks, and it can be added to the poaching liquid for pears and other fruit. In Spain’s Basque region, sharpened skewers of licorice root are sometimes used for grilling meat, imbuing it with their flavor as it cooks. The roots can also be steeped in milk or cream to make a base for ice cream or custard.

MEDICINAL USES: Licorice root is prescribed in Ayurvedic medicine for a variety of ailments, from intestinal distress to liver problems, and to clean teeth, and it is believed to be an anti-inflammatory. It should be avoided by anyone with high blood pressure, heart disease, or kidney problems.

LOOMI

See Black Lime.