The Encyclopedia of Spices and Herbs: An Essential Guide to the Flavors of the World - Padma Lakshmi (2016)

SPICES, HERBS, AND BLENDS FROM A TO Z

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PREVIOUS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: khmeli-suneli, Kashmiri masala, kaffir lime leaves, kokum, and ground kaffir lime leaves

KAFFIR LIME LEAVES

BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus hystrix

OTHER NAMES: wild lime, Indonesian lime, makrut

FORMS: fresh and whole and ground dried leaves

The kaffir lime tree is native to Southeast Asia, as is all citrus, but, unlike with other citrus fruits, traditionally only the zest—not the pulp and juice—was used, along with the leaves, which are used fresh or dried. The double-lobed leaves are unusual looking, composed of two oval leaves growing end to end. They are dark green, shiny, and very aromatic. Their fragrance is that of a blend of citrus fruits, a strong lime scent with lemony undertones, and it is also reminiscent of lemongrass or lemon verbena; the flavor is clean, sharp, and citrusy.

The dried leaves are not as aromatic as the fresh, but if they have been properly treated, they will add their characteristic citrus tang to a variety of dishes. Dried kaffir lime leaves are sold both whole and ground.

Kaffir lime leaves are widely used in Indonesia and Thailand, as well as in Vietnam and some other regions of Southeast Asia. Many versions of pho, the classic Vietnamese beef broth, include kaffir lime, and it flavors other soups, stews, stir-fries, and curries. If the leaves are added whole to the dish, they are often removed before serving.

Note: Although the tree is commonly known as kaffir lime in the West, kaffir is a derogatory term in South Africa that many prefer to avoid, calling it wild lime or Indonesian lime instead. Makrut is the Thai name, and the leaves are sometimes identified that way.

KALONGI

See Nigella.

KAPOK BUDS

See Marathi Moggu.

KENCUR

See Galangal.

KASHMIRI MASALA

Kashmiri masala is a spice blend used to season many dishes in India’s northernmost state, including elaborate Moghul-style preparations. A more complex blend may include coriander, cumin, garlic, turmeric, black pepper, dried chiles (preferably Kashmiri chiles), cinnamon, nutmeg and/or mace, fennel, and cloves, but there are many simpler versions as well. Kashmiri masala is the essential seasoning for rogan josh, the region’s famous lamb curry.

KHMELI-SUNELI

Khmeli-suneli is a classic spice and herb blend from Georgia that is popular throughout the Caucasus regions. The name translates literally as “dried spice,” and the mix, a coarse powder, is found in many incarnations. Fenugreek (both seeds and dried leaves), savory (winter or summer), black pepper, hyssop, and coriander are considered basic ingredients, but most blends contain many more, such as marjoram, mint, bay leaves, parsley, and/or dill, and dried marigolds are often included. The aroma is complex, and the flavor is warm and grassy. Khmeli-suneli is the defining seasoning for karcho, a hearty soup made with beef, lamb, or chicken, and it is essential in satsivi, a walnut sauce that is part of many dishes. It also seasons chahohbili, a traditional chicken stew, and other stews, and it is very good with dried beans.

KIRMIZI CHILE

See Red Pepper Flakes.

KOKUM

BOTANICAL NAME: Garcinia indica

OTHER SPELLINGS: kokam, cocum

FORMS: semidried and dried

Kokum is the fruit of a tropical evergreen tree native to India’s western coast; in fact, it grows only in India and is virtually unknown elsewhere. It is related to the mangosteen, and it bears purple fruits that look like small plums or passion fruits.

The fruits are picked when they are ripe. Then they are halved, the pulp is removed, and the rinds are dried in the sun; often they are rubbed with salt to hasten the drying process. The fruit darkens as it dries, turning dark purple to black. Black kokum is the form most often found; it is also called wet kokum, and the rinds are still pliable and moist. White kokum is dried longer and it is also known simply as dried kokum; sometimes these fruits have been cut into slices rather than halved, and they will still contain their hard whitish seeds, which should be removed before use.

Kokum is primarily used as a souring agent, though it also adds a pinkish-purple color to any dish seasoned with it. It has a tart, slightly sweet, astringent flavor. Black kokum that has been salted during the drying process can be quite salty and should be rinsed before using. White kokum is usually soaked before being used to soften it, making it easier to remove the seeds. Kokum is used in the cuisines of Gujarat, Goa, and other coastal and southern Indian states. There it is added to curries, especially fish curries, and to legume and vegetable dishes. Its flavor pairs well with coconut, and kokum-flavored coconut milk is sold as a refreshing drink in India; kokum sherbet is also popular in the hot southern regions.