Cooking Sous Vide - Thomas N. England (2016)

Vegetables & Fruits

VEGETABLE & FRUIT basics

One of the biggest enemies of fruits and vegetables—or any food—is oxygen, which permeates the food and starts to break down molecules. Cooked the traditional way, where they’re very much exposed to oxygen, fruits and vegetables become dull in color. Vacuum packaging them for sous vide dramatically slows the breakdown of the molecules in fruits and vegetables, leading to bright colors that can give a pop to entrées or side dishes.

Vegetables cooked sous vide tend to have higher vitamin content compared to those steamed or simmered in water. By holding all the nutrients in the bag, they aren’t diluted in the water that surrounds them. Couple that with cooking them at lower temperatures, and you keep the vitamins from breaking out of the cell structure.

When it comes to fruits, most have a certain amount of pectin in them. This pectin gives food a firmer structure. However, pectin begins to break down at 185°F (85°C). If you cook fruits sous vide, however, you can stop that breakdown, leading to a firmer texture than what traditional cooking provides.

Because vegetables have to cook at a much higher temperature than meats, you may think you can’t have a one-bag meal. However, if you sous vide the vegetables first, you can then add them to the meat that needs to cook. As long as the cooking temperatures stay below 183°F (84°C), the vegetables won’t cook any further.

When preparing...

Add an acidic ingredient (such as orange juice) to bags containing red vegetables. In the presence of acid, these vegetables become even redder during the cooking process. Some fruits, such as apples and peaches, will brown quickly when they’re cut. Dipping them in lemon juice helps slow down this browning.

When finishing...

You can simply remove the fruits or vegetables from their sous vide bags, divide among plates, and serve as is! Other options include simmering or boiling them with other ingredients when making soup, browning them in the oven, putting them in the blender for a purée, or (in the case of potatoes) frying them for a couple minutes.

VEGETABLE & FRUIT
times & temperatures

pickled VEGETABLES

Pickling is easy with sous vide! This recipe walks you through how to pickle beets, which enhances their naturally sweet flavor.

12 oz. (340g) beets, cut into ½-in. (1.25cm) slices

½ serrano pepper, seeds removed

1 garlic clove, diced

⅔ cup white wine vinegar

⅔ cup filtered water

2 TB. pickling spice

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 190°F (88°C).

2 Place beets, serrano pepper, and garlic in a 1-quart (1l) canning jar. Set aside.

3 In a medium stockpot, combine white wine vinegar, filtered water, and pickling spice and bring to a boil over high heat.

4 Remove stockpot from heat and strain mixture over beets to fill the glass jar. Seal the jar.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the jar of beets and allow to cook for 40 minutes.

2 Remove the jar from the water bath.

1 Allow the jar of beets to cool at room temperature for 1 hour.

2 Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator for up to 12 months.

Pickled Vegetables

VEGETABLE ramen

Ramen broth is a combination of sweet, salty, and umami. By cooking those combinations in separate sous vide bags, you get a mouthwatering layering of flavor in the final product.

2 sweet potatoes (about 1 lb.; 450g), peeled and diced small

3 TB. canola oil

1½ qt. (1.4l) filtered water

1 (2-in.; 5cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped

1 head garlic, minced

1 oz. (25g) dried shiitake mushrooms

¼ cup white or yellow miso

1 lb. (450g) fresh shiitake mushrooms, sliced

1 yellow onion, diced

1 large leek, green tops removed and whites diced

4 cloves garlic, chopped

Tamari

1½ lb. (680g) fresh or cooked ramen noodles

2 green onions, thinly sliced

4 soft-boiled eggs, sliced in half

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Put sweet potatoes and 1 tablespoon canola oil in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of sweet potatoes and oil and allow to cook for 1 hour. Remove the plastic bag from the water bath and set aside.

2 In a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag, combine filtered water, ginger, garlic head, dried shiitake mushrooms, and white miso. Seal.

3 Insert the plastic bag of dried mushrooms into the 185°F (85°C) water bath and allow to cook for 45 minutes. Remove the plastic bag from the water bath and set aside.

4 In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, cook fresh shiitake mushrooms in remaining 2 tablespoons canola oil until water has cooked out of them and they’re browned, about 8 minutes.

5 In 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag, combine cooked shiitake mushrooms, yellow onion, leek whites, and garlic cloves. Seal.

6 Insert the plastic bag of cooked mushrooms into the 185°F (85°C) water bath and allow to cook for 20 minutes. Remove the plastic bag from the water bath and set aside.

1 Preheat an oven to 400°F (204°C).

2 Remove sweet potatoes from the plastic bag, discarding liquid.

3 Place ½ of sweet potatoes on a sheet pan. Insert the sheet pan into the oven and allow to cook for 7 minutes, or until browned. Set aside.

4 Meanwhile, place remaining ½ of sweet potatoes in a food processor and purée until smooth.

5 Strain the plastic bag of dried mushrooms into a large stockpot, discarding any solids. Add puréed sweet potatoes.

6 Add ingredients from the plastic bag of cooked mushrooms to the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Season to taste with tamari.

7 Divide ramen noodles among the serving bowls. Pour hot broth over noodles.

8 Top each with green onions, soft-boiled egg half, and roasted sweet potatoes and serve.

Vegetable Ramen

CORN soup

Summer sweet corn is a food that’s very flavorful all on its own. By cooking this soup in bags, you help retain the wonderful aroma and delicate sweetness of the corn.

5 ears corn

1½ qt. (1.4l) filtered water

1 TB. butter

2 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. granulated sugar

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Using a knife, cut corn off of cobs.

3 Put corn cobs and filtered water in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal. Set aside.

4 In a separate 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag, put corn kernels, butter, kosher salt, and sugar. Seal and set aside in the refrigerator.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of corn cobs and allow to cook for 2 hours.

2 With 20 minutes left for corn cobs, insert the plastic bag of corn kernels with the other bag in the 185°F (85°C) water bath.

3 Remove both plastic bags from the water bath.

1 Strain liquid from the plastic bag of corn kernels into a large stockpot, setting aside solids.

2 Add heavy whipping cream and allow to simmer over medium heat until liquid has evaporated by half, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat.

3 Strain liquid from the plastic bag of corn cobs into the stockpot, discarding corn cobs, and stir to combine.

4 Add corn kernels to the stockpot and serve immediately.

VEGETABLE soup

Hearty vegetable soup warms the soul and helps fight off the chill of winter. This recipe uses the sous vide technique for cooking root vegetables so you get a nicely textured soup.

1 small turnip, peeled and diced small

1 small carrot, peeled and diced small

1 small parsnip, peeled and diced small

½ medium red onion, peeled and diced small

1 stalk celery, diced small

1 tsp. garlic powder

4 sprigs fresh thyme, stem on

1 bay leaf

½ tsp. cracked black peppercorns

1½ qt. (1.4l) chicken stock or broth

1 TB. kosher salt

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Combine turnip, carrot, parsnip, red onion, celery, garlic powder, thyme, bay leaf, cracked black peppercorns, and chicken stock in a 1-gallon (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of broth and seasoned vegetables and allow to cook for 2 hours.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Open the plastic bag and remove thyme stems and bay leaf.

2 Strain liquid from the plastic bag of seasoned vegetables into a large stockpot, setting aside vegetables.

3 Add kosher salt to liquid and allow to simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

4 Add vegetables to the stockpot and stir to combine. Serve immediately.

WALDORF salad

This take on the popular New York salad combines savory chicken, fresh apple, crunchy walnuts, and sweet grapes with a mayonnaise-based dressing.

2 (5-oz..; 140g) boneless and skinless chicken breasts

½ tsp. large-grind black pepper

1 TB. corn oil

1 Granny Smith apple, cored and diced

1 tsp. lime juice

½ cup red grapes, cut in half

1 rib celery, diced

⅓ cup mayonnaise

2 tsp. chardonnay wine

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 TB. kosher salt

1 head Romaine lettuce

½ cup walnuts, chopped and toasted

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 145°F (63°C).

2 Season chicken breasts with black pepper.

3 Put seasoned chicken breasts and corn oil in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned chicken breasts and corn oil and allow to cook for 2 hours.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath and set aside to cool.

1 Place Granny Smith apple slices in a large bowl. Add lime juice and toss.

2 Add red grapes and celery and stir to combine.

3 In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, chardonnay wine, and Dijon mustard. Add to fruit mixture and toss.

4 Remove chicken breasts from the plastic bag, discarding liquid, and dice. In a medium bowl, place diced chicken and kosher salt and toss.

5 Add seasoned chicken to rest of salad and toss to combine.

6 Divide Romaine lettuce among salad bowls. Spoon salad on top of lettuce, sprinkle with toasted walnuts, and serve.

Waldorf Salad

BABY BEET salad

In this fresh, summery salad, peppery arugula is topped with sweet baby beets, tangy goat cheese, and crunchy almonds.

1 lb. (450g) baby beets

1 tsp. kosher salt

Juice of 1 orange

½ cup baby arugula

¼ lb. (115g) goat cheese

2 mandarin oranges, cut into wedges

¼ cup slivered almonds

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 182°F (83°C).

2 Completely clean baby beets of any dirt and remove stems. Cut beets in half lengthwise.

3 Season beet halves with kosher salt.

4 Put seasoned beet halves and orange juice in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of beet halves and orange juice and allow to cook for 1 hour.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Remove beef halves from the bag, discarding orange juice.

2 Divide baby arugula among plates. Top with beet halves, goat cheese, mandarin orange wedges, and almonds and serve.

Baby Beet Salad

asparagus

Trying to cook asparagus perfectly is a challenge, as the tip cooks more quickly than the stalk. Enter sous vide, which gives you a consistently cooked gourmet vegetable.

½ lb. (225g) asparagus, woody ends removed

1 tsp. garlic powder

1 TB. whole butter

½ tsp. sea salt

¼ tsp. ground black pepper

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 190°F (88°C).

2 Combine asparagus, garlic powder, whole butter, sea salt, and black pepper in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal, keeping asparagus in a single layer.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned asparagus and allow to cook for 4 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Remove asparagus from the bag, discarding the rest.

2 Divide asparagus between plates and serve.

whipped CAULIFLOWER

Cauliflower is a flavorful vegetable that can be steamed, sautéed, or even whipped like a mashed potato. This recipe cooks everything together before whipping to retain the rich flavors.

1 lb. (450g) cauliflower, trimmed

½ tsp. garlic powder

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 TB. butter

1 TB. heavy whipping cream

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 183°F (84°C).

2 Combine cauliflower, garlic powder, kosher salt, butter, and heavy whipping cream in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of cauliflower and allow to cook for 2 hours.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Pour contents of the bag into a blender. Starting on a slow speed and going progressively faster, purée until smooth.

2 Season to taste and serve like you would mashed potatoes.

BEAN salad

Bean salad lasts a long time and tastes good cold, warm, or hot. Cooking the beans in a canning jar makes it that much easier to store leftovers.

4 oz. (110g) dry navy beans

4 oz. (110g) dry kidney beans

4 cups water

1 shallot, minced

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. granulated sugar

1 TB. champagne or white wine vinegar

3 TB. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 190°F (88°C).

2 Place dry navy beans, dry kidney beans, and 3 cups water into a 1-quart (1l) glass canning jar and seal with the lid.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the jar of beans and allow to cook for 2 hours.

2 Remove the lid from the jar and add shallot, kosher salt, sugar, and remaining 1 cup water. Seal with the lid, return to the 190°F (88°C) water bath, and allow to cook for 4 hours.

3 Remove the jar from the water bath.

1 Allow the jar to sit at room temperature for 1 hour.

2 Remove the lid from the jar and add champagne vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil.

3 Seal the jar with the lid and then shake it to evenly disperse all its contents.

4 Place the jar in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

5 Pour bean salad into a large bowl and serve.

Bean Salad

GLAZED carrots

Cooking carrots sous vide helps soften them and retains their rich orange color. The butter, honey, and cardamom glaze adds a sweetness that will make you want seconds.

1 lb. (450g) baby carrots

4 TB. whole butter

1 TB. honey

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. ground cardamom

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Combine baby carrots, whole butter, honey, kosher salt, and cardamom in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of baby carrots and glaze and allow to cook for 1 hour, 15 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Strain glaze from the bag through a fine-mesh sieve into a medium bowl and set aside to add back to carrots or save for other uses.

2 Remove carrots from the bag, pour excess glaze over them (if using), and serve as is or seasoned to your liking.

Glazed Carrots

artichoke

Many people avoid artichokes because of the long cooking time and the high amount of waste. Sous vide cooks artichokes more quickly and wastes far less of the edible portion.

1 artichoke

1 tsp. sea salt

1 clove garlic, sautéed

2 TB. butter

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 182°F (83°C).

2 Peel off outer leaves and stem of artichoke. Cut artichoke in half from bloom end to stem end. Season interior with sea salt and garlic.

3 Combine seasoned artichoke halves and butter in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned artichoke halves and butter and allow to cook for 30 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Remove artichoke halves from the bag, discarding liquid.

2 Remove choke (fuzzy center) from each half with a spoon and serve.

PEARL onions

Pearl onions are little bundles of flavor that are great on their own as a side dish or alongside other vegetables, such as carrots or green beans.

1 lb. (450g) pearl onions, peeled

1 slice bacon, cooked and crumbled (optional)

1 stem thyme, leaves only

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Combine pearl onions, bacon (if using), and thyme in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of pearl onions and allow to cook for 1 hour, 30 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Strain any liquid out of the bag and discard.

2 Divide pearl onions among plates and serve.

FRENCH fries

If you’re looking for the most glorious french fries possible, sous vide’s here to help. These fries have a really crispy exterior and a wonderfully light and fluffy interior.

2 qt. (2l) water

2 TB. kosher salt

1 tsp. granulated sugar

1 tsp. baking soda

2½ lb. (1.1kg) russet potatoes, cut into french-fry shape ⅓ in. (.75cm) thick

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 194°F (90°C).

2 In a large bowl, combine water, kosher salt, sugar, and baking soda until all solids are dissolved in water; this forms a brine.

3 Place russet potato fries in a single layer in two 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bags. Add enough brine to equal weight of fries, making sure to cover all fries, and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bags of fries and allow to cook for 25 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bags from the water bath.

1 Preheat a fryer to 260°F (127°C). Remove fries from brine and place on a cooling rack to dry, about 20 minutes.

2 Place dried fries in the fryer and allow to cook for 8 minutes to set outside.

3 Transfer fries to the freezer to and allow to completely freeze, about 1 hour.

4 Preheat a fryer to 375°F (191°C). When the fryer has reached the desired temperature, add fries and allow to cook for 2 minutes.

5 Remove fries from the fryer and serve.

French Fries

confit POTATOES

To cook confit means to poach in an oil. This recipe cooks red potatoes in a butter-oil mixture, which results in the creamiest potatoes you can imagine.

1 lb. (450g) small red potatoes

1 tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. ground white pepper

1 tsp. fresh rosemary, chopped

2 TB. whole butter

1 TB. corn oil

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 190°F (88°C).

2 Cut red potatoes in half. Season potato halves with kosher salt, white pepper, and rosemary.

3 Combine seasoned potato halves, whole butter, and corn oil in a 1-quart (1l) plastic bag-ensuring potato halves are in a single layer-and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned potato halves and butter-oil mixture and allow to cook for 1 hour.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Place potatoes and butter-oil mixture in a large bowl, or divide among plates.

2 Serve potatoes as a side dish. They can also be seared as desired before serving.

Confit Potatoes

fennel PURÉE

Fennel has a licorice-like smell and a fresh flavor reminiscent of summer. Puréed fennel is great as a sauce for other foods or even as a spread for sandwiches.

1 lb. (450g) fennel bulbs, cut into 1-in. (2.5cm) pieces

1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¼ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. granulated sugar

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Combine fennel, extra-virgin olive oil, kosher salt, and sugar in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned fennel and allow to cook for 1 hour.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Pour ingredients from the bag into a blender. Purée on high until mixture is smooth.

2 Serve fennel purée as a sauce or spread.

potato PURÉE

Instead of cooking these potatoes in water—which can cause them to lose flavor—they’re cooked with butter and cream. This gives you a deliciously decadent purée.

1 lb. (450g) russet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1 in. (2.5cm) thick

8 TB. butter

½ cup heavy cream

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 190°F (88°C).

2 Combine russet potatoes, butter, heavy cream, and kosher salt in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of potatoes and butter-cream mixture and allow to cook for 1 hour.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Pass ingredients from the bag through a food mill and into a large bowl. Whisk simply to incorporate. (If you don’t have a food mill, you can use a mixer or ricer.)

2 Serve potato purée as a side with any meat dish.

CURRIED apples

The light spice of curry and the sweetness of apples are a glorious combination. Cooking the apples sous vide ensures they aren’t mushy, so you have a great side dish.

2 tart apples, peeled, cored, and sliced

1 TB. Madras curry powder

2 TB. coconut cream

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 185°F (85°C).

2 Combine tart apples, Madras curry powder, and coconut cream in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned apples and liquid and allow to cook for 1 hour.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Place apples and liquid in a large bowl, or divide among plates.

2 Serve as a side dish with meats or other vegetable-based dishes.

Curried Apples

COMPRESSED water melon

Sometimes sous vide isn’t about cooking; it’s simply about vacuum sealing. This method takes the air out of watermelon, concentrating the flavor.

1 seedless watermelon

1 Peel watermelon and cut meat into 1×1×½-inch (2.5×2.5×1.25cm) pieces.

2 Place watermelon pieces in a single layer in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag.

3 If you’re using a bag sealer, seal watermelon pieces into the bag. If you’re using a vacuum chamber, pull a 99.9 percent vacuum.

4 Repeat the sealing process three more times for the bag sealer or two more times for the vacuum chamber, cutting open the top of the bag and starting over each time.

1 Remove watermelon pieces from the bag.

2 Enjoy watermelon pieces on their own or use them to make a dessert sushi.

Compressed Water Melon

BRAISED radishes

Braising radishes helps mute the heat associated with them while bringing out their natural flavors. The sous vide process takes the worry out of overcooking this dish.

1 lb. (450g) radishes, cut in half lengthwise

3 TB. butter

½ tsp. sea salt

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 182°F (83°C).

2 Combine radish halves, butter, and sea salt in a 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bag and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned radishes and allow to cook for 45 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 Strain liquid from radishes and discard.

2 Serve radishes as a side dish or as an appetizer.

RED cabbage

Many people tend to associate cabbage with foul smells. However, red cabbage cooked sous vide gives this dish the pleasant aroma and taste of sweet plum and grapes.

½ tsp. kosher salt

¼ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp. garlic powder

½ cinnamon stick

1 TB. grape jelly

1 small red cabbage, outer leaves removed, cored, and thinly sliced

1 tart apple, peeled, cored, and diced

1 small yellow onion, peeled and diced

Juice of 1 lemon

2 TB. butter

1 Preheat the sous vide machine to 183°F (84°C).

2 In a large bowl, combine kosher salt, black pepper, garlic powder, cinnamon, grape jelly, red cabbage, apple, yellow onion, lemon juice, and butter.

3 Place cabbage mixture in two 1-gallon (3.75l) plastic bags, making sure cabbage is spread out in a single layer, and seal.

1 Once the sous vide water bath has reached the desired temperature, insert the plastic bag of seasoned cabbage and allow to cook for 45 minutes.

2 Remove the plastic bag from the water bath.

1 In a large bowl, combine contents of both bags.

2 Season to taste, if desired, and serve as a side dish for an entrée.