I Love Soup: More Than 100 of the World's Most Delicious and Nutritious Recipes - Beverly LeBlanc (2016)
MEAT & GAME SOUPS
It’s easy to think of meat soups as substantial winter meals, but light, spiced soups imbued with traditional flavours from Southeast Asia give this chapter a year-round appeal. Mrs Schultz’s Beef & Vegetable Soup, for example, is a true winter warmer, but you will also find flavoursome lighter ideas, such as Thai Meatball & Coconut Soup.
Like most stews and casseroles, the slowly cooked meat soups in this chapter benefit from being made a day in advance. Borscht, Sausage, Fennel & Bean Soup and Syrian Red Lentil & Lamb Soup are examples of filling main-course soups that are best made ahead for quick reheating at mealtime. They are perfect for family meals after a busy workday or when you are casually entertaining.
Rich meat soups can be surprisingly economical, too. Portuguese Caldo Verde, Split Pea & Ham Soup and Scotch Broth make filling soups that don’t cost a lot to make, but are certain to please.
MRS SCHULTZ’S BEEF & VEGETABLE SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus making the stock
COOKING TIME 2 hours
2 tbsp garlic-flavoured sunflower oil, plus extra as needed
450g/1lb stewing steak, cut into bite-size pieces and patted dry
1 onion, finely chopped
¼ tsp paprika
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup dry red wine
750ml/26fl oz/3¼ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
1 can (400g/14oz) chopped tomatoes
2 bay leaves
1 carrot, peeled, halved lengthways and thickly sliced
1 floury/russet potato, peeled and diced
½ celery stalk, finely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley leaves, to serve
Heat 1½ tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan over a medium-high heat. Working in batches, if necessary, to avoid overcrowding the pan, fry the beef for 2-3 minutes until browned on all sides, then transfer to a plate and set aside. Add more oil between batches, if necessary.
Add the remaining oil to the pan and heat. Add the onion and fry, stirring occasionally, for 3-5 minutes until softened but not coloured. Return the beef and any accumulated juices to the pan, and add the paprika. Stir in the wine and cook for 5-6 minutes until almost evaporated.
Add the stock, then cover and bring to the boil. Skim the surface, then add the tomatoes and bay leaves and season with salt and pepper. Cover and return to the boil, then reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer for 1 hour.
Stir in the carrot, potato and celery and simmer, covered, for 30-45 minutes until the beef and vegetables are tender. Discard the bay leaves, then adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. Serve immediately, sprinkled with parsley.
VIETNAMESE BEEF & NOODLE SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus making the stock
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
1 small handful of bean sprouts
1.75l/60fl oz/7½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11)
4cm/1½in piece of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
4 star anise
1 cinnamon stick
seeds from 4 green cardamom pods
1 tbsp fish sauce, or to taste
1 red pepper, halved, deseeded and very thinly sliced
500g/1lb 2oz medium-width ready-to-eat rice noodles
600g/1lb 5oz beef sirloin, rump or topside, in one piece, very thinly sliced against the grain
TO SERVE
lime wedges
1 handful of mint leaves
1 handful of coriander/cilantro leaves
2 spring onions/scallions, thinly sliced
thinly sliced red chillies
Put the bean sprouts in a bowl, cover with cold water and set aside. Put the stock, ginger, star anise, cinnamon stick, cardamom seeds and fish sauce in a large saucepan. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the red pepper slices for the final 3 minutes of simmering to soften them.
Just before serving, use a slotted spoon to scoop the spices out of the stock and discard, then return the stock to the boil. Put the noodles in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 15-30 seconds to warm through. Drain and divide into serving bowls, then divide the beef into the bowls.
Drain the bean sprouts and add them to the bowls. Ladle the boiling stock and red peppers over and serve immediately with lime wedges and small bowls of mint, coriander/cilantro, spring onions/scallions and chillies on the side.
ITALIAN WEDDING SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 35 minutes, plus making the stock and 30 minutes chilling
COOKING TIME 1¼ hours
1.75l/60fl oz/7½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
1 Parmesan cheese rind, about 7.5 × 5cm/ 3 × 2in (see page 9)
1 Parma ham/prosciutto heel (see page 9)
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp fruity extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
250g/9oz/3½ cups escarole or curly kale leaves, chopped
100g/3½oz/1½ cups chopped spinach
salt and freshly ground black pepper
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve
VEAL MEATBALLS
55g/2oz/½ cup dried breadcrumbs
4 tbsp milk
800g/1¾lb minced/ground veal
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 spring onions/scallions, very finely chopped
3 tbsp very finely chopped parsley leaves
3 tbsp very finely chopped dill
85g/3oz/¾ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
2 eggs, beaten
olive oil, for frying
The meatballs can be made up to 1 day in advance. Put the breadcrumbs and milk in a bowl and leave to soak. Meanwhile, line a baking sheet or two plates that will fit in your refrigerator with greaseproof/wax paper. Put the veal, garlic, spring onions/scallions, parsley, dill and cheese in a large bowl, add the breadcrumb mixture and season with salt and pepper. Add the egg little by little and work it into the mixture with your fingers. Fry a small amount of the mixture to test for seasoning.
With wet hands, divide the mixture into 12 equal portions, then divide each portion into 6 equal portions to make a total of 72. Roll into meatballs and put them on the baking sheet. Cover with cling film/plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the stock, cheese rind, ham heel and bay leaf in a saucepan. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer while you fry the meatballs.
To fry the meatballs, heat one or two large frying pans over a high heat until a splash of water ‘dances’ on the surface. Add a thin layer of olive oil, reduce the heat to medium and add as many meatballs as will fit without overcrowding the pan. Fry the meatballs, turning gently, for 5-8 minutes until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and set aside until required. (At this point they can be left to cool completely and chilled for up to 24 hours.)
To finish making the soup, heat the olive oil in another large saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in the celery, onion and garlic, reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, for 10-12 minutes until softened but not coloured. Add the stock, along with the cheese rind, ham heel and bay leaf, cover and bring to the boil. Add the escarole and spinach, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.
Gently add the meatballs and simmer for another 5 minutes until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper, but remember the cheese rind and ham heel will have been salty.
Discard the cheese rind, ham heel and bay leaf. Divide the meatballs and greens into bowls and ladle the soup over them. Serve immediately with olive oil and grated Parmesan cheese on the side.
BEEF CONSOMMÉ WITH PORCINI MUSHROOMS
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus making the consommé and 30 minutes soaking the mushrooms
COOKING TIME 5 minutes
30g/1oz dried porcini mushrooms
1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups Beef Consommé (see page 13)
1 tbsp dry sherry (optional)
salt (optional)
chopped parsley leaves, to serve
Put the mushrooms in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 30 minutes until tender. Strain through a muslin-lined/ cheesecloth-lined sieve. (The soaking liquid can be used in another recipe or frozen until required.) Squeeze the mushrooms, trim the bases of the stalks/stems, if necessary, then thinly slice the caps and stalks and divide them into serving bowls.
Put the consommé in a saucepan over a high heat and heat to just below the boil. Stir in the sherry, if using, and season with salt, if required. Ladle the consommé over the mushrooms, sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.
BORSCHT
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes, plus making the stock and horseradish cream
COOKING TIME 2½ hours
1kg/2¼lb boneless beef silverside, brisket or chuck, in one piece
1.75l/60fl oz/7½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
4 carrots, peeled and sliced
4 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
3 celery stalks, sliced, with the leaves reserved
2 onions, halved and studded with several cloves in each half
2 tbsp tomato purée/paste
1 bouquet garni made with the celery leaves,
2 bay leaves, a small handful of parsley sprigs and several dill sprigs tied together
a pinch of sugar
4 large cooked beetroots/beets, peeled and coarsely grated
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe quantity Horseradish & Dill Cream (see page 154), to serve
chopped dill, to serve
Put the beef, stock, carrots, tomatoes, celery, onions, tomato purée/paste, bouquet garni and sugar in a saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, covered, for 2 hours until the meat is tender.
Remove the beef from the pan and set aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the soup, pressing down to extract as much flavour as possible, then discard the flavourings and return the stock to the pan.
Remove any sinew from the beef, cut the meat into bite-size pieces and return it to the soup. Add the beetroots/beets, bay leaves and vinegar and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes until the beef is very tender. Discard the bay leaves and adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. Serve topped with the horseradish cream and sprinkled with dill.
OXTAIL SOUP WITH BARLEY
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus overnight chilling (optional)
COOKING TIME 4 hours
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp sunflower or olive oil, plus extra as needed
1kg/2¼lb oxtail, cut into large pieces (ask the butcher to do this)
3 celery stalks, chopped, with the leaves reserved
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 bouquet garni made with the reserved celery leaves, 1 bay leaf and several parsley and thyme sprigs tied together
85g/3oz/⅓ cup pearl barley
Worcestershire sauce, to taste
4 tbsp finely chopped parsley leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
This soup is best made a day before serving. Melt the butter with the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Working in batches, fry the oxtail for 2-3 minutes until browned on both sides (add more oil if necessary), then transfer it to a plate.
Pour off all but 1½ tablespoons of the fat from the pan. Add the celery, carrots and onions and fry, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for 1-3 minutes until the onions are softened. Return the oxtail and any juices to the pan, add 2.5l/88fl oz/2½ quarts water and season with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to the boil, then skim and add the bouquet garni. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 2½-3 hours until the meat is falling off the bones. Remove the meat and bones from the pan and set aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the soup into a clean pan, discarding the vegetables, and skim. Alternatively, leave the soup to cool completely, then cover and chill overnight for easier removal of the fat. (Spoon a little of the soup over the meat, before covering and chilling until required.)
Add the barley, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30-40 minutes until tender. Meanwhile, remove any skin and all the gristle from the meat and discard, along with the bones. Shred the meat, return it to the pan and reheat. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce and parsley. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, and serve.
OSSO BUCO SOUP WITH GREMOLATA
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus making the stock and gremolata
COOKING TIME 2 hours
2-3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra as needed
600g/1lb 5oz bone-in osso buco or veal shin, about 3 thick pieces
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 celery stalk, thinly chopped
4 large garlic cloves, very finely chopped
1.5l/52fl oz/6½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup dry vermouth
500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups passata (Italian sieved tomatoes)
1 bay leaf
1 tbsp tomato purée/paste
½ tsp sugar
a pinch of saffron threads
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe quantity Gremolata (see page 18), to serve
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Working in batches, if necessary, to avoid overcrowding the pan, fry the osso buco for 2-3 minutes, turning occasionally, until browned on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. Add more oil between batches, if necessary.
Add the shallots, carrot and celery and fry, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for 1-3 minutes until the onion is softened but not coloured. Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the pan, add the stock and vermouth and season with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to the boil.
Skim, then add the passata, bay leaf, tomato purée/paste, sugar and saffron and season again with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, covered, for 1½-1¾ hours until the meat is very tender. Remove the meat from the soup and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Remove the meat from the bones, finely shred it and return it to the soup. Use a small spoon or knife to push the marrow out of the middle of the bones and stir it into the soup, if you like. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, then skim. Serve sprinkled with the gremolata.
WINTER LAMB & ONION SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes, plus making the stock
COOKING TIME 55 minutes
3 tbsp olive or hemp oil
400g/14oz boneless lamb neck fillet/tenderloin, membrane removed and meat patted dry
4 large onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp dried mint leaves
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp fenugreek seeds, lightly crushed
½ tsp turmeric
2 tbsp plain white/all-purpose or wholemeal/ wholewheat flour
1l/35fl oz/4½ cups Chicken Stock (see page 12) or ready-made stock
1 cinnamon stick, broken in half
2 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp sugar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 small handful of coriander/cilantro leaves, to serve
Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the lamb and fry, turning often, for 4 minutes until browned all over. Remove from the pan and set aside.
Add the remaining oil to the pan and heat. Add the onions and season with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until very soft and just starting to colour. Add the mint, cumin, fenugreek seeds and turmeric and stir for 30 seconds. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring, for another 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and slowly pour in the stock, stirring continuously, then add the cinnamon stick.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to very low and simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the lamb across the grain into very thin slices, then cut any large slices in half.
Add the lamb to the soup and simmer for another 10 minutes or until the lamb is cooked to your liking. Discard the cinnamon stick and stir in the lemon juice and sugar. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, then serve sprinkled with the coriander/cilantro.
SYRIAN RED LENTIL & LAMB SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes, plus making the stock
COOKING TIME 1¼ hours
1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups Vegetable Stock (see page 12) or water
650g/1½lb lamb shoulder chops
250g/9oz/1¼ cups split red lentils, rinsed and picked over
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 tsp dried mint leaves
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp chilli powder
a pinch of saffron threads
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped coriander/cilantro or parsley leaves, to serve
lemon wedges, to serve
hot pepper sauce, to serve (optional)
Put the stock, lamb, lentils, carrot, onion, mint, ground coriander, cumin, chilli powder and saffron in a saucepan. Cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer for 1-1¼ hours until the lamb is tender and the lentils have fallen apart.
Remove the lamb and bones from the soup and set aside until cool enough to handle. Skim the soup, if necessary. Cut the meat from the bones into bite-size pieces and return it to the soup. Stir well and season with salt and pepper.
Serve sprinkled with coriander/cilantro leaves and with lemon wedges for squeezing over and hot pepper sauce for adding at the table, if you like.
WELSH MOUNTAIN LAMB & LEEK SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus making the seeds
COOKING TIME 1¾ hours
600g/1lb 5oz boneless shoulder of lamb, in one piece, trimmed
4 large garlic cloves, crushed
3 carrots, 2 coarsely chopped and 1 sliced
3 celery stalks
3 large leeks, 2 thickly sliced and 1 thinly sliced, all rinsed and kept separate
1 bouquet garni made with 2 bay leaves and several parsley and rosemary sprigs tied together
350g/12oz floury/russet potatoes, peeled and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Spiced Seeds (see page 19), to serve
Put the lamb and 1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups water in a saucepan. Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then add the garlic, chopped carrots, celery, thickly sliced leeks and bouquet garni. Season with salt and pepper, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.
Strain the stock and discard the vegetables and bouquet garni. Return the lamb and stock to the pan, then skim the fat from the surface. Add the sliced carrots, thinly sliced leeks and potatoes. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30-45 minutes until the meat is meltingly tender and the potatoes are falling apart. Skim again, if necessary, then remove the lamb and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Cut the lamb into bite-size pieces, return it to the soup and reheat. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, and serve sprinkled with the seeds.
ROAST LAMB & BEAN SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus making the stock and roasting the lamb
COOKING TIME 40 minutes
1 tbsp olive or hemp oil
1 red onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp turmeric
1l/35fl oz/4½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
1 can (400g/14oz) chopped tomatoes
1 tbsp tomato purée/paste
½ tbsp dried mint leaves or dill
1 tsp harissa, or to taste
½ tsp sugar
1 lamb bone, all fat removed (optional)
400g/14oz boneless, skinless roast lamb, shredded with all fat removed
1 can (400g/14oz) cannellini beans or chickpeas/garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped coriander/cilantro leaves, to serve
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and fry for 1-3 minutes until the onion is softened but not coloured. Add the ground coriander, cumin and turmeric and stir for 30 seconds until aromatic. Watch closely so the spices do not burn.
Add the stock, tomatoes, tomato purée/paste, mint, harissa, sugar and lamb bone, if using. Season with salt and pepper, cover and bring to the boil over a high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring once or twice to break up the tomatoes. Add the lamb and beans and simmer for 5 minutes to heat through. Discard the lamb bone, if used, then adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, and add more harissa, if you like. Serve sprinkled with coriander/cilantro leaves.
SCOTCH BROTH
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes
COOKING TIME 1¾ hours
1kg/2¼lb neck of lamb on the bone, trimmed and chopped into pieces (ask the butcher to do this)
1 bouquet garni made with 1 piece of celery stalk, 1 bay leaf and several parsley and thyme sprigs tied together
55g/2oz/¼ cup pearl barley
2 leeks, thinly sliced and rinsed
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 onion, finely chopped
1 turnip, peeled and diced
2 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Put the lamb and 1.75l/60fl oz/7½ cups water in a saucepan. Cover and slowly bring to just below the boil. Skim, then add the bouquet garni. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.
Stir in the barley, leeks, carrot, onion and turnip and return to just below the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 30-40 minutes until the meat and barley are tender. Remove the meat from the soup and set aside until cool enough to handle. Discard the bouquet garni.
Pull the meat away from the bones, cut it into small pieces and return it to the soup. Reheat, if necessary, then stir in the parsley. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
HAM & CHEESE CHICORY SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus making the stock
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
leaves from 4 heads of chicory/Belgian endive, coarsely chopped
1 floury/russet potato, peeled and diced
600ml/20fl oz/2½ cups Vegetable Stock (see page 12) or ready-made stock
1 Parmesan cheese rind, about 7.5 × 5cm/ 3 × 2in (see page 9; optional)
5 tbsp double/heavy cream
salt and ground white pepper
40g/1½oz thinly sliced Parma ham/prosciutto, to serve
freshly grated Gruyère cheese, to serve
Melt the butter with the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the chicory/endive and potato and fry, stirring, for 3-5 minutes until the chicory/ endive wilts but does not brown. Add the stock, 600ml/20fl oz/2½ cups water and the cheese rind, if using.
Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10-12 minutes until the potato is very tender. Discard the cheese rind, if used, add the cream and blend the soup until smooth. Season with salt and white pepper, and serve sprinkled with the ham and grated cheese.
SPLIT PEA & HAM SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus making the flavoured oil
COOKING TIME 2¼ hours
2 tbsp sunflower oil
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 cooked unsmoked gammon/ham bone with any meat that is left on it
200g/7oz/1 cup green split peas, rinsed
2 bay leaves
½ tbsp dried thyme leaves
350g/12oz/2 cups shredded or finely diced cooked ham
sugar, to taste (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe quantity Crushed Mint Oil (see page 19), to serve
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium heat. Stir in the celery, carrot and onion, then reduce the heat to low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until softened but not coloured.
Add the gammon/ham bone and split peas to the pan and stir in 1.6l/56fl oz/7 cups water. Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, if necessary. Stir in the bay leaves and thyme, reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, covered, for 1½-2 hours, stirring frequently until the split peas are very tender and have thickened the soup and any meat is coming away from the bone.
Remove the bone from the pan and set aside. When it is cool enough to handle, shred any meat that might have been on it. Return the meat to the soup, add the cooked ham and reheat. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, but remember the gammon/ham bone will have been salty so you might only need pepper; if the soup is too salty, stir in a little sugar. Serve drizzled with the mint oil.
SMOKED HAM & CELERY CHOWDER
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus making the stock
COOKING TIME 35 minutes
1 tbsp butter
1½ tbsp sunflower oil
400g/14oz/3 cups diced lean smoked ham, rind and any fat removed
2 celery stalks, finely chopped, with the leaves reserved to serve
1 leek, halved lengthways, sliced and rinsed
1 large floury/russet potato, peeled and diced
2 tbsp plain white/all-purpose or wholemeal/ wholewheat flour
500ml/18fl oz/2¼ cups Chicken Stock (see page 12) or ready-made stock
700ml/24fl oz/3 cups milk
2 tbsp chopped parsley leaves
1 bay leaf
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
4 tbsp sour cream
celery salt
freshly ground black pepper
celery seeds, to serve
Melt the butter with 1 tablespoon of the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the ham and fry, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until just starting to crisp on the edges. Remove it from the pan and set aside.
Add the remaining oil to the pan. Add the celery and leek and fry, stirring occasionally, for 3-5 minutes until the leek is softened but not coloured. Stir in the potato and return the ham to the pan, then sprinkle in the flour and stir for 2 minutes. Slowly add half the stock, scraping the base of the pan and stirring continuously to prevent lumps from forming.
Stir in the remaining stock, cover and bring to the boil, then skim. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the milk, parsley, bay leaf and lemon zest. Simmer, covered, for 15-18 minutes until the potato is starting to fall apart. Do not allow the soup to boil. Meanwhile, finely shred the reserved celery leaves.
Discard the bay leaf, stir in the sour cream and warm through. Season with celery salt and pepper, but remember the ham is salty. Serve sprinkled with celery leaves and seeds.
SAUSAGE, FENNEL & BEAN SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus overnight soaking and cooking the beans (optional) and making the stock
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
200g/7oz/1 cup dried cannellini beans or
1 can (400g/14oz) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1½ tbsp garlic-flavoured olive oil
400g/14oz spicy Italian sausages, casings removed
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
1.25l/44fl oz/5½ cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 bay leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley leaves, to serve
If using dried beans, put them in a bowl, cover with water and leave to soak overnight, then drain. Transfer to a saucepan, add 1.5l/ 52fl oz/6½ cups water, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 50 minutes-1 hour until tender, then drain.
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the sausage meat and fry for 2-3 minutes, breaking up the meat, until browned all over. Remove the meat from the pan and set aside to drain on paper towels. Spoon off all but 1 tablespoon of the oil remaining in the pan. Add the celery and fennel and fry, stirring occasionally, for 8-10 minutes until light golden brown. Add the stock, carrots and bay leaves and season with salt and pepper.
Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, if necessary, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Return the sausage meat to the pan, add the beans and simmer for 2-3 minutes to warm through. Discard the bay leaves and skim again. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, then serve sprinkled with parsley.
GREEN & WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH PARMA HAM
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus soaking the beans overnight and making the stock
COOKING TIME 1½ hours
200g/7oz/1 cup dried butter/lima beans
2 tbsp fruity extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 leek, thinly sliced and rinsed
1 onion, chopped
1.4l/48fl oz/6 cups Vegetable Stock (see page 12) or ready-made stock
1 small handful of sage and ½ celery stalk with its leaves, tied together
1 heel of Parma ham/prosciutto (see page 9; optional)
¼ head Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded
85g/3oz/½ cup chopped green beans
85g/3oz/½ cup shelled broad/fava beans, peeled if not young and tender
1 handful of baby spinach leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
pesto, to serve (optional)
Put the butter/lima beans in a bowl, cover with water and leave to soak overnight, then drain.
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a mediumheat. Stir in the garlic, leek and onion, reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened but not coloured. Stir in the butter/lima beans and stock, cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then reduce the heat, stir in the sage and ham heel, if using, and simmer, covered, for 40 minutes-1 hour until tender.
Remove the ham heel and set aside until cool enough to handle. Add the cabbage, green beans and broad/fava beans to the pan and simmer, uncovered, for 10-12 minutes until all the beans are tender. Stir in the spinach and simmer for another 1 minute until the leaves wilt.
Remove the meat from the ham heel, shred it into small pieces and set aside. Season the soup with salt and pepper, but remember the ham heel will have been salty. Serve with the ham sprinkled over the top, if used. Add a dollop of pesto to each portion, if using, and serve with olive oil on the side for drizzling.
WINTER MINESTRONE
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus overnight soaking and cooking the beans
COOKING TIME 45 minutes
100g/3½oz/½ cup dried cannellini beans
140g/5oz pancetta, skinned, if necessary, and chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
100g/3½oz/1½ cups finely shredded white cabbage
1 carrot, peeled, halved lengthways and sliced
1 courgette/zucchini, halved lengthways and sliced
1 floury/russet potato, peeled and chopped
1 Parmesan cheese rind, about 7.5 × 5cm/ 3 × 2in (see page 9)
100g/3½oz/½ cup Arborio rice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, to serve (optional)
Put the beans in a bowl, cover with water and leave to soak overnight, then drain. Transfer to a saucepan, add 1.5l/52fl oz/6½ cups water, cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 50 minutes-1 hour until almost tender, then drain.
Put the pancetta in a saucepan over a medium-high heat and fry, stirring, until the fat runs. Add the onion and fry, stirring, for 5-8 minutes until softened and turning golden. Add the garlic, cabbage, carrot, courgette/zucchini and potato and stir for 1-2 minutes. Add the cheese rind and 1.5l/52fl oz/6½ cups water.
Cover and bring to the boil. Season with salt and pepper but remember the rind is salty. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Stir in the cooked dried beans and rice, return the soup to the boil, uncovered, then reduce the heat slightly and slowly boil for 10-15 minutes until the beans and rice are tender. Discard the cheese rind, then adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. Serve with oil and cheese, if using.
THAI MEATBALL & COCONUT SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes, plus making the stock, chillies and garlic
COOKING TIME 20 minutes
400g/14oz minced/ground pork
2 coriander/cilantro sprigs, leaves and stalks very finely chopped, plus an extra handful of leaves, chopped
2.5cm/1in piece of fresh ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
1½ tbsp cornflour/cornstarch
1 tbsp sesame oil
1 tbsp light soy sauce or tamari soy sauce
1l/35fl oz/4½ cups Vegetable Stock (see page 12) or ready-made stock
400ml/14fl oz/1¾ cups coconut milk
1½ tbsp fish sauce, or to taste
salt and freshly ground black pepper
finely grated zest of 1 lime, to serve
Crisp-Fried Garlic (see page 19), to serve
Chillies in Vinegar (see page 19), to serve
Put the pork, finely chopped coriander/cilantro, ginger, cornflour/cornstarch, sesame oil and soy sauce in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Use your hands to mix together and divide the mixture into 6 equal portions, then divide each one into 6 portions to make a total of 36. Roll into meatballs and set aside.
Put the stock in a saucepan, cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat so the liquid boils only very lightly. Working in batches, if necessary, to avoid overcrowding the pan, add the meatballs and cook, uncovered, for 3-5 minutes until they pop to the surface and are cooked through if you cut one open. Remove the cooked meatballs from the pan and set aside. Reserve the cooking liquid.
Put the coconut milk and fish sauce in another saucepan and bring to just below the boil. Season with salt and pepper, add the meatballs and slowly stir in enough of the meatball cooking liquid to achieve the preferred consistency. Stir in the chopped coriander/cilantro leaves, adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, and add more fish sauce, if you like. Divide the meatballs and soup into bowls and sprinkle with the lime zest. Serve with the garlic and chillies on the side.
POSOLE
PREPARATION TIME 15 minutes, plus overnight soaking and cooking the hominy and making the stock
COOKING TIME 1¾ hours
280g/10oz/2 cups hominy (dried corn kernels)
2l/70fl oz/2 quarts Chicken Stock (see page 12) or ready-made stock
1kg/2¼lb boneless pork shoulder, in one piece, rind and fat removed
any available pork bones (optional; ask the butcher for these)
2 large onions, unpeeled, quartered and each piece studded with 1 clove
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp dried oregano
2 tsp ground cumin
2 green jalapeño chillies, deseeded (optional) and sliced
2 tbsp dried thyme leaves
1 tsp dried ancho chilli powder
1 tsp salt, plus extra to season
freshly ground black pepper
1 handful of coriander/cilantro leaves, chopped, to serve
Put the hominy in a bowl, cover with water and leave to soak overnight, then drain. Transfer to a saucepan and cover generously with water. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 4 hours. Drain and set aside.
Put the stock, pork and pork bones, if using, in a saucepan. Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then add the onions, garlic, oregano and cumin. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes.
Add the hominy, chillies, thyme, chilli powder and salt. Cover and return to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for another 1-1¼ hours until the meat and hominy are very tender. Remove the pork and set aside until cool enough to handle. Discard the onions and bones, if used.
Shred the pork, then return it to the pan. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, and serve sprinkled with coriander/cilantro.
PORTUGUESE CALDO VERDE
PREPARATION TIME 10 minutes
COOKING TIME 30 minutes
500g/1lb 2oz floury/russet potatoes, peeled and chopped
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
250g/9oz/3½ cups shredded curly kale or Savoy cabbage
1 tsp dried dill or thyme leaves
100g/3½oz chorizo, casing removed and meat thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
crusty country-style bread, to serve
fruity extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
Put the potatoes, garlic and 1.25l/44fl oz/ 5½ cups water in a saucepan and season with salt and pepper. Cover and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 10-15 minutes until the potatoes are very tender.
Use a potato masher or large metal spoon to coarsely mash the potatoes into the water. Add the kale and dill and simmer, uncovered, for 5-10 minutes until the kale wilts. Stir in the chorizo and warm through, then adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. Serve with bread and olive oil for adding at the table.
VENISON & CHESTNUT SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 25 minutes, plus making the stock and at least 4 hours marinating
COOKING TIME 1¾ hours
600g/1lb 5oz boneless venison shoulder, trimmed and cut into large chunks
240ml/8fl oz/1 cup full-flavoured dry red wine, such as Burgundy
1 shallot, sliced
1 tsp juniper berries, lightly crushed
4 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1 celery stalk, chopped
½ leek, halved lengthways, thinly sliced and rinsed
1.4l/48fl oz/6 cups Beef Stock (see page 11) or ready-made stock
1 bouquet garni made with 1 piece of celery stalk, 1 bay leaf, several parsley sprigs and 2 sage sprigs tied together
½-1 tbsp redcurrant jelly (optional)
6 peeled canned or vacuum-packed chestnuts, drained and chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped parsley leaves, to serve
Mix the venison, wine, shallot, juniper berries and half the garlic together in a non-reactive bowl. Cover and chill for at least 4 hours or up to 24.
Remove the venison from the marinade and set aside. Strain the marinade into a clean bowl and reserve.
Heat the oil in a saucepan over a medium heat. Add the carrot, celery and leek and fry, stirring occasionally, for 2 minutes. Add the remaining garlic and fry for 1-3 minutes until the leek is softened. Add the reserved marinade and cook for 8 minutes until almost evaporated. Add the stock and venison and season with salt and pepper.
Cover and bring to the boil, then skim and add the bouquet garni. Reduce the heat to very low (use a heat diffuser if you have one) and simmer, covered, for 1¼-1½ hours until the meat is very tender. Remove the venison from the soup and set aside. Discard the bouquet garni.
Stir in ½ tablespoon of the jelly, if using, then blend the soup until smooth. Return the venison to the pan, add the chestnuts and warm through. Adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary, and add more jelly, if you like. Serve sprinkled with parsley.
ROAST PHEASANT & LENTIL SOUP
PREPARATION TIME 20 minutes, plus roasting the pheasant and making the shallots
COOKING TIME 50 minutes
280g/10oz/1½ cups dried Puy or other green lentils, rinsed
2 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 leek, chopped and rinsed
1 red onion, chopped
1 tsp juniper berries and 1 bay leaf tied together in a piece of muslin/cheesecloth
400g/14oz/2½ cups finely shredded boneless, skinless roast pheasant
any leftover pheasant gravy (optional)
4 tbsp crème fraîche or sour cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Crisp-Fried Shallots (see page 19), to serve
chopped parsley leaves, to serve
Put the lentils, garlic, leek, onion, spice bundle and 1.75l/60fl oz/7½ cups water in a saucepan over a high heat. Cover and bring to the boil. Skim, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30-40 minutes until the lentils are very soft. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid and discarding the spice bundle.
Put a small amount of the cooking liquid in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Add the pheasant and simmer to warm through.
Meanwhile, blend the lentils with 500ml/18fl oz/ 2¼ cups of the cooking liquid until smooth, then season with salt and pepper. Work the soup through a sieve into a bowl, rubbing back and forth with a spoon and scraping the bottom of the sieve.
Return the soup to the pan and slowly stir in the gravy, if using, and enough of the remaining cooking liquid to achieve the preferred consistency. (Any leftover cooking liquid can be used in other recipes or frozen for up to 6 months.) Stir in the crème fraîche, then adjust the salt and pepper, if necessary. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pheasant to the soup. Serve sprinkled with the shallots and parsley.