Kimchi - K-Food: Korean Home Cooking and Street Food - Da-Hae West, Gareth West

K-Food: Korean Home Cooking and Street Food - Da-Hae West, Gareth West (2016)

Chapter 2. Kimchi

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You can’t have a Korean meal without the country’s favourite side dish, kimchi. An essential banchan or sharing dish, as well as an important ingredient in cooking, kimchi is so central to the Korean diet that it is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner. In fact, most Koreans even have a kimchi refrigerator in their apartment to store their kimchi at a cool temperature (and to avoid everything else in their refrigerator from taking on the strong kimchi flavours).

Traditionally a way of preserving vegetables for their nutrients in preparation for the long, harsh Korean winter, kimchi has been around in different guises as part of the Korean diet for centuries. When it was first made, vegetables were simply salted without any chilli (chilli didn’t make its way to Korea until the 17th century), but since chilli was introduced, it quickly became an important ingredient in most kimchis and nowadays, kimchi is often associated with the bright red colour of the chilli pepper.

During the late autumn months, a lot of Koreans start a process called Kimjang, which is when families and neighbourhoods get together to create huge batches of kimchi to last them through the winter. For Kimjang, Baechu Kimchi or cabbage kimchi is usually made, which is the most common type of kimchi and the one used most for cooking - all the recipes that call for kimchi in this book refer back to this one. When cooking kimchi, it’s really important that the kimchi is fermented for at least three weeks so that it’s strong, pungent and full of flavour. If you cook with kimchi when it’s too young, you’re essentially just cooking with cabbage so the flavour easily washes away, which means your stews will be watery and lack flavour and your fried rice will have no spicy tang. Kimchi that has been fermented for several weeks (even months) is best for soups and stews.

Baechu kimchi can be quite strong and spicy but there are also a lot of other kimchi varieties. Geotjeori is a kimchi that’s usually eaten in the spring and summer - it’s light and fresh and can be enjoyed as a salad as a nice contrast to the strong baechu kimchi of the winter. Other types include Dongchimi - a water kimchi that doesn’t contain any chilli flakes, so the liquid is clear and refreshing. As well as seasonal varieties, kimchi in Korea differs depending on the region that it’s made in. Kimchi produced in the northern areas such as Seoul are often quite mild, whereas kimchi from the warm southern areas are often quite spicy, salty and contain a lot of fermented fish products due to their proximity to the coast. The kimchi recipes in this book are based on the kimchi that I’ve grown up with. My family is from Busan, so these kimchi are probably more strongly flavoured than those you might have tried before.

While it’s pretty easy to buy kimchi nowadays, either online or from Asian supermarkets, the bought kind will always taste different to making your own, not to mention the sense of achievement you’ll get from whipping up your own batch. It’s possible to ‘kimchi’ pretty much anything, and we wanted to demonstrate this in this book by including some more unusual kimchi varieties such as Mango Kimchi and Tomato Kimchi. These kimchis are not traditional, but are examples of how the process can be used to ferment almost any firm vegetable or fruit that you might have lying around your refrigerator at home.

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Baechu Kimchi

EVERYDAY CABBAGE KIMCHI

When I was little, I used to watch my mum make kimchi. Stood over a sink, elbow-deep in the kimchi ‘glue’, she would rub the mixture into the cabbage before tearing off a bit of one of the spicy leaves to feed me. One bit was never enough, and I’d always sneak some more until she’d give in and we’d enjoy a pile of the newly made kimchi with a steaming bowl of rice. Kimchi at this stage is very different to what you might be familiar with - it’s fresh and crisp, like a spicy salad, and is deliciously addictive in its own right. If you have the patience to give it a few weeks though, the kimchi will develop its characteristic tangy flavour through fermentation, and it is at this stage that it makes a great base for cooking with. No Korean meal is complete without it.

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1 Chinese cabbage, about 800g (1lb 12oz), outer leaves and stem removed

50g (1¾oz) salt

KIMCHI ‘GLUE’

150ml (¼ pint) Myeulchi Gookmul

1 tablespoon sweet rice flour

4 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 carrot, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

1-cm (½-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

1 apple, finely chopped (skin on)

1½ tablespoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons saeujeot (salted fermented shrimp)

1_ Using a sharp knife, make a cut about 10cm (4 inches) up the cabbage to the base and use it to gently pull the cabbage in half (this helps to keep the leaves whole without shredding them). Repeat the process with each half so that the cabbage is quartered.

2_ Fill a large bowl with cold water and submerge each of the cabbage quarters fully, then remove from the water and shake them to get rid of any excess water. Take a small handful of salt and rub it up and down each leaf of 1 cabbage quarter, ensuring the thicker parts closer to the stalk are particularly well covered. Repeat with the remaining quarters, then transfer to a large, clean, clip lock plastic container and leave to brine for 3 hours, turning the cabbage quarters every 30 minutes to make sure the salt is distributed evenly over the cabbage.

3_ Meanwhile, make the kimchi ‘glue’. Bring the stock to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the sweet rice flour, reduce the heat to a simmer and whisk together until there are no lumps and the mixture is thick enough to easily coat the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool to room temperature, then add the remaining ‘glue’ ingredients and mix together thoroughly (this is easiest done by hand, wearing gloves).

4_ After brining, thoroughly wash the cabbages under cold running water to remove any excess salt or sediment that that be trapped between the leaves, then shake dry. Take a small handful of the ‘glue’ and rub it up and down each leaf of 1 cabbage quarter to coat, making sure that the thicker parts nearer the base are particularly well covered as before. Repeat with the remaining cabbage quarters.

5_ Fold over the top third of each cabbage quarter into its centre, then fold over the outer leaves to form a parcel. Pack the kimchi parcels tightly into the large container. Spoon any leftover ‘glue’ into the container to fill any gaps - this will help form a barrier against the air and prevent mould. Be sure to leave some space at the top of the container though, as the kimchi will need some room to ferment and expand (without it, you could end up with a kimchi explosion).

6_ Leave at room temperature for 3-4 days to ferment, then transfer to the refrigerator until needed. The kimchi will continue to ferment but at a much slower rate, so every day it’ll taste a little sharper and a little tangier. Enjoy with everything.

TIP: One way I like to eat really fermented kimchi is to wash the leaves of their seasoning paste, then use these washed leaves to wrap barbecued meats, or simply lay the washed kimchi in one hand, put a small spoonful of rice in the middle with a dollop of gochujang and wrap it up to make a tasty little kimchi parcel.

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Bok Choy and Radish Kimchi

This is the first non-traditional kimchi that Gareth and I ever made. The juicy, crunchy bok choy and radishes make it feel fresh, light and summery - quite different to the typical cabbage kimchi. I once gave a masterclass on how to make different types of kimchi and this was by far the most popular. I think people find it less intimidating as it doesn’t have the same strong, fermented taste as the more traditional varieties. If you’re a kimchi newbie, give it a try.

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1kg (2lb 4oz) bok choy

250g (9oz) French radishes, trimmed and halved

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon caster sugar

KIMCHI ‘GLUE’

250ml (9fl oz) water

2 tablespoons sweet rice flour

2 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 carrot, grated

2 tablespoons saeujeot (salted fermented shrimp)

1 tablespoon fish sauce

6 garlic cloves, minced

2-cm (1-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

1_ Using a sharp knife, make a cut about 5cm (2 inches) long to the base of each bok choy and use it to gently pull the bok choy in half (this helps to keep the leaves whole without shredding them). Repeat the process with each half so that the bok choy are quartered, then rinse the quarters along with the radishes under cold running water. Drain, shaking off any excess water, and set aside.

2_ To make the kimchi ‘glue’, bring the measurement water to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce the heat to a simmer, add the sweet rice flour and whisk together until there are no lumps and the mixture is thick enough to easily coat the back of a spoon. Set aside to cool to room temperature, then add the remaining ‘glue’ ingredients and mix together thoroughly.

3_ Meanwhile, mix together the salt and sugar in a bowl. Add the bok choy quarters and rub the salt and sugar mixture between the leaves, ensuring the thicker parts near the base are particularly well covered. Transfer to a large, clean, clip lock plastic container along with the radish halves and mix everything together with your hands. Leave to brine for 30 minutes.

4_ After brining, thoroughly wash the bok choy and radishes under cold running water then shake dry. Take a small handful of the ‘glue’ and rub it up and down each bok choy quarter to coat, again making sure that the thicker parts nearer the base are particularly well covered. Use the leftover ‘glue’ to coat the radishes.

5_ Fold over the top third of each bok choy quarter into its centre, then fold over the outer leaves to form a parcel. Pile the folded bok choy parcels neatly back in the container, filling any gaps with the radish halves.

6_ This kimchi can be eaten straightaway, but is best after it has had 3-4 days at room temperature to ferment, after which you can store it in the refrigerator. It’s not great for cooking, so if you want to make a Kimchi Jjigae or Kimchi Fried Rice you are better off using a traditional Baechu Kimchi.

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Geotjeori

QUICK KIMCHI SALAD

After a long winter of eating strong fermented baechu kimchi, Koreans start to crave something lighter and fresher in spring. Geotjeori is a quick kimchi that’s meant to be enjoyed the day you make it. Crunchy, sweet and eaten like a salad, it makes a great side dish to barbecued meats and fish.

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1 Chinese cabbage, about 800g (1lb 12oz), outer leaves and stem removed

2 tablespoons salt

½ medium onion, finely sliced

1 spring onion, trimmed and finely sliced

3½ tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

3 garlic cloves, minced

1-cm (½-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 tablespoons caster sugar

1½ tablespoons sesame seeds

cooked short-grain rice, to serve

1_ Using a sharp knife, make a cut about 5cm (2 inches) up the cabbage to the base and use it to gently pull the cabbage in half. Repeat the process with each half so that the cabbage is quartered, then repeat again so that the cabbage is split into eighths.

2_ Cut off and discard the tough base from the bottom of each cabbage section so that it breaks apart into separate leaves. Place the leaves in a large container and sprinkle over the salt, then mix together with your hands to ensure the leaves are completely coated. Leave to brine for 30 minutes, mixing every 10 minutes to ensure the salt is distributed evenly.

3_ After brining, thoroughly wash the cabbage leaves under cold running water to remove any excess salt, then drain, squeezing out any excess water, and place in a large bowl together with the remaining ingredients. Mix together with your hands thoroughly for 5 minutes, squeezing the leaves as you go - this will release water from the leaves and create a quick sauce. Serve immediately with bowls of rice.

TIP: While this kimchi is particularly good eaten the day you make it, you can leave it for a couple of weeks to ferment and enjoy its slightly sweeter flavour in your cooking in the same way as Baechu Kimchi.

Kkakdugi

CRUNCHY SWEDE KIMCHI

This super simple kimchi is one that my mum would often quickly throw together as I was growing up. Kkakdugi is traditionally made from cubed Korean radish (or moo), though back then swede and turnip were much easier to get hold of in the supermarket, and mum would often use these. Mooli, a very similar radish to moo, is easy to find these days in Asian grocery stores and makes a great alternative.

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2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons caster sugar

1.2kg (2lb 12oz) swede, cut into 2.5-cm (1-inch) cubes

3-cm (1¼-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

12 garlic cloves, minced

4 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1_ Mix together the salt and sugar in a large plastic sealable container. Add the swede cubes, toss to coat and set aside for 1 hour.

2_ After 1 hour, drain the liquid from the swede. Add the ginger, garlic, gochugaru and fish sauce. Mix everything together well.

3_ Leave the kimchi to ferment at room temperature for 1 week, testing every couple of days to check how strong it tastes, then transfer to the refrigerator and store until needed, when the strength has developed to suit your taste.

Mango Kimchi

While not an obviously Korean ingredient, mangoes really symbolize sunshine for me. I once spent a summer in Jeju Island where some of my family run a mango orchard, and while I was there I was lucky enough to eat the sweet, juicy fruit almost every day. This kimchi isn’t as strange as it sounds, with the mango bringing a really lovely sweetness to the usually spicy kimchi ingredients. It’s a great side for a summertime Korean BBQ and goes perfectly with our Pomegranate-glazed Lamb Kebabs.

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3 x 300g (10½oz) unripe mangoes, peeled, stones removed and cut into 2.5-cm (1-inch) cubes

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped

1 long red chilli, roughly chopped

3 tablespoons fish sauce

2 tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

5-mm (¼-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1_ Put everything in a large, clean, clip lock plastic container and mix together well to ensure the mango cubes are evenly coated.

2_ Leave the kimchi to ferment at room temperature for 3 days before transferring to the refrigerator until needed.

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Dongchimi

REFRESHING WATER KIMCHI

Unlike most other kimchi, dongchimi doesn’t contain any gochugaru, so is a lovely clear, white colour. While traditionally made as a winter kimchi (when the Korean radishes are in season), it’s particularly delicious in summer and its refreshing, cool kimchi liquid is often used as a base for chilled noodle soups.

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2 tablespoons salt

2 tablespoons caster sugar

1 mooli, cut into 5-cm (2-inch) x 2-cm (¾-inch) batons

5-cm (2-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

4 whole garlic cloves

1 apple, cut into finger-sized batons

2 spring onions, trimmed and cut into thirds

2 long red chillies, trimmed and cut into thirds

1 litre (1¾ pints) water

1_ Mix together the salt and sugar in a large, clean, clip lock plastic container. Add the mooli batons, toss to coat and set aside for 4 hours, mixing every 30 minutes to ensure the salt and sugar are distributed evenly.

2_ After 4 hours, add the remaining ingredients and mix everything together well. Leave the kimchi to ferment at room temperature for 2-3 days before transferring to the refrigerator until needed.

Tomato Kimchi

Because soft fruit and vegetables such as cucumbers take on kimchi flavours so well, Gareth had it stuck in his head that a tomato version would really work. It turns out he was right. This kimchi gets the best out of tomatoes that might not be quite as ripe as you want them to be by intensifying their natural sweetness.

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½ tablespoon salt

½ tablespoon caster sugar

1kg (2lb 4oz) tomatoes, deseeded and cut into quarters

1½ tablespoons gochugaru (Korean red chilli powder)

1-cm (½-inch) piece of fresh root ginger, peeled and very finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon fish sauce

2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced

1_ Mix together the salt and sugar in a large, clean, clip lock plastic container. Add the tomato quarters, toss to coat and set aside for 30 minutes, mixing again every 10 minutes to ensure the salt and sugar are distributed evenly.

2_ Add the remaining ingredients to the container and, using your hands, mix them together until thoroughly combined.

3_ Leave the kimchi to ferment at room temperature for 3 days before transferring to the refrigerator until needed.