Gennaro Slow Cook Italian (2015)
Cakes & desserts
Meringa con zabaglione e fragole
Crostata di albicocche e nocciole
Torta gelata alle ciliege
Pere al forno con amaretti e mandorle
Cassata Siciliana al forno, di Elisabetta
Pampapato
Tiramisu al passito e arancia
Ciambella alle mandorle
Pastiera di grano
Torrone
Panettone
Babà all’arancia
The traditional Italian meal nearly always ends with fruit; a bowl of fresh, seasonal fruits placed in the centre of the table for everyone to help themselves, so when I think of dessert, I naturally think of fruit. A lot of Italian sweet treats like crostate (tarts and pies) and cakes include fruit and for me there is nothing nicer than a home-baked dessert oozing with sweetness from ripe, seasonal fruit. Slowly cooked apples or pears undergo an amazing transformation from when they are fresh, and turning fruit into wonderful desserts has always been a pleasure for me.
My mother, sisters and grandmother loved to make sweet treats, especially on Sundays or feast days, and I was always sent to get the fruit because I knew where the best was to be found. I was the first to climb the fig trees and pick the ripest - I knew when this was because I used to check each day. The same went for cherries, plums, peaches, apricots, pears, apples - and during spring I would come home with basketfuls of wild strawberries, which grew on the hillside. I remember my mum used to fill jars with morello cherries, sprinkle them with sugar and leave them out in the sun for days until the sugar had dissolved; the result was a sweet cherry syrup which was used to fill pies or make cherry ices or simply serve as an accompaniment to cakes. This was effortless slow cooking, as the warm sunshine did the work.
My sisters often made crostate, which were slowly baked when the wood-burning oven was still warm from the day’s bread baking. The smell of this home cooking was amazing, filling the house as well as our nostrils, and I couldn’t wait for the delicacy to come out of the oven, constantly checking, so I could secure the first slice.
A lot of traditional desserts and cakes were made during festivities, in large quantities, to share with friends and family. For instance, at Easter the pastiera di grano (wheat and ricotta pie) was a favourite and women would spend entire days making them - and many still do. I like to maintain this tradition and I reserve a day before Easter Sunday to make a batch to give away and, of course, one or two to keep for my family.
A lot of Italian cakes and desserts, including babà all’arancia (see here) and the Italians’ favourite Christmas cake, panettone (see here), use yeast and require several slow risings; it is the slowness of the risings that give the desserts their lightness.
Meringa con zabaglione e fragole
Meringue with zabaglione and strawberries
Meringue is so simple to make at home; with an electric whisk the mixture takes just minutes to prepare. The addition of a little lemon juice helps to keep the meringue shiny. You then pop it in the oven on a low temperature for several hours and go and do something else while the meringue slowly cooks. This is a large meringue nest; if you prefer to make smaller nests, cooking time would be reduced by about half. It makes a delicious dessert topped with Italian zabaglione and some fresh strawberries.
Serves 4
3 egg whites
a pinch of salt
200g/7oz/1 cup caster (superfine) sugar
½ tsp lemon juice
10g/¼oz/1½ tbsp icing (confectioners’) sugar, sifted
200g/7oz strawberries, hulled and quartered
for the zabaglione
4 egg yolks
100g/3½oz/½ cup caster (superfine) sugar
3 tbsp vin santo or Marsala wine
Preheat the oven to 75°C/165°F/gas mark ¼ or as low as it will go. Line a 24cm/9½-inch diameter round baking sheet with baking parchment.
Put the egg whites and salt in a bowl and whisk until stiff peaks form. Gradually add the caster sugar, whisking all the time. Add the lemon juice and whisk until the sugar has dissolved. Put the mixture into a piping bag (pastry bag) and pipe a large nest onto the baking parchment. Alternatively, if you don’t have a piping bag, you can use a large spoon. Sprinkle with icing sugar and immediately place in the oven for 4 hours.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly before carefully removing from the baking sheet. Leave to cool.
Meanwhile, make the zabaglione. In a small heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and vin santo. Place over a saucepan of gently simmering water, whisking all the time until the mixture begins to boil and thicken. Remove from the heat, whisk well to get rid of any lumps, and leave to cool.
Put the meringue on a serving plate, fill the middle with the zabaglione and decorate with strawberries.
Crostata di albicocche e nocciole
Apricot and hazelnut tart
If you like hazelnuts, you’ll love this tart: ground hazelnuts are used in the pastry and the filling. It’s simple to make but looks and tastes like a tart bought from a top pastry shop. Caramelizing the apricots gives extra flavour and colour. You can make the pastry a day or so in advance and store it in the fridge. The tart is delicious just as it is, or serve with mascarpone cream or good vanilla ice cream.
Serves 6
for the pastry
250g/9oz/2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted, plus extra to dust
a pinch of salt
125g/4½ oz/generous ½ cup cold butter cut into small pieces, plus extra to grease
100g/3½oz/½ cup caster (superfine) sugar
50g/1¾oz/⅔ cup ground hazelnuts
1 egg yolk
for the filling
450g/1lb apricots, halved or quartered
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
100g/3½oz/7 tbsp butter, at room temperature
2 eggs
20g/¾oz/1½ tbsp plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted
100g/3½oz/1⅓ cups ground hazelnuts
100g/3½oz/¾ cup icing (confectioners’) sugar
First make the pastry. Put the flour and salt in a large bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Mix in the sugar and hazelnuts. Add the egg yolk and 2 tablespoons cold water and work into a smooth dough. Form into a ball, wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave to rest in the fridge for at least 20 minutes.
Preheat the grill (broiler). Put the apricots on a baking sheet, sprinkle with caster sugar and place under the hot grill for about 10 minutes, until caramelized. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas mark 3. Grease a 24cm/9½-inch round tart tin and dust with flour.
To make the filling, put the butter in a bowl and beat until creamy. Whisk in the eggs one at a time, then whisk in the flour, hazelnuts and icing sugar until smooth and well combined.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface and line the prepared tin. Add the filling and top with the caramelized apricots. Bake for 45-50 minutes, until golden. Leave to rest for at least 10 minutes, then slice and serve.
Torta gelata alle ciliege
Cherry sponge dessert
This stunning dessert is halfway between a semi-freddo (ice cream) and a mousse and is perfect in spring/summer when cherries are plentiful. It’s very simple to make and looks amazing. You make two plain sponge cakes and a cherry mousse-like filling, then assemble it - and the freezer does the rest. It can be made in advance and taken out of the freezer about 30-40 minutes before serving.
Serves 8
for the sponge cakes
3 eggs
150g/5½oz/¾ cup caster (superfine) sugar
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out
a pinch of salt
150g/5½oz/1¼ cups self-raising flour, sifted
butter, to grease
150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup maraschino liqueur
for the filling
2 gelatine leaves
750g/1lb 10oz ripe sweet cherries, pitted
3 tbsp white wine
grated zest of ½ lemon
85g/3oz/scant ½ cup caster (superfine) sugar
300ml/10fl oz/1¼ cups double (heavy) cream, whipped
for the topping
7 tbsp apricot jam
150g/5½oz cherries, pitted and sliced in half
a few small mint leaves
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Lightly grease 2 x 20cm/8-inch diameter round shallow cake tins and line with baking parchment. Line the bottom of a 20cm/8-inch diameter, 10cm/4-inch tall, loose-bottomed cake tin with baking parchment. Put the gelatine in a bowl of cold water to soften.
To make the sponge, whisk the eggs and sugar together in a bowl until light and fluffy. Fold in the vanilla seeds, salt and flour. Pour into the prepared shallow cake tins and bake for 15-20 minutes, until springy to the touch. Turn out and leave to cool on a wire rack.
To make the filling, put the cherries in a saucepan with the wine, lemon zest and sugar and cook on a medium heat, stirring all the time, until the cherries are very soft and the liquid has evaporated. Remove from the heat and blend until smooth. Squeeze the excess water out of the gelatine leaves and stir them into the cherry mixture until dissolved. Leave until cold, then add the whipped cream.
Put one sponge in the tall cake tin, smooth side down, drizzle over half the maraschino and pour in the cherry filling. Put the second sponge on top, smooth side up, gently pressing down with your fingers, and drizzle with the remaining maraschino. Cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave in the freezer for at least 2 hours.
Carefully remove the cake from the tin and place on a serving plate. Sieve the apricot jam and heat gently to make a smooth glaze. Brush the glaze over the top of the cake and decorate with cherries and a few mint leaves. Serve immediately or store in the fridge.
Pere al forno con amaretti e mandorle
Baked pears with amaretti biscuits and almonds
Italians love pears and in the autumn they often slow-cook the fruit, either on the hob or in the oven. This recipe is very simple to prepare; as the pears bake, their juices mix with the wine, cloves and lemon to produce a really delicious ‘sauce’. The addition of almonds and amaretti biscuits give a nice crunchy texture. Serve the pears just as they are or with mascarpone cream, whipped cream or good vanilla ice cream.
Serves 4
4 large pears, such as Williams or Conference
175ml/6fl oz/¾ cup white wine
2 cloves
50g/1¾oz/¼ cup caster (superfine) sugar
grated zest and juice of ½ unwaxed lemon
30g/1oz/¼ cup flaked (slivered) almonds, crushed
30g/1oz amaretti biscuits, crushed
½ tsp ground cinnamon
2 tbsp Marsala wine
30g/1oz/2 tbsp butter, divided into eight pieces
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Slice the pears in half lengthways and remove the pips, scooping out a little of the flesh. Set aside.
Combine the wine, cloves, sugar, lemon zest and juice in an ovenproof dish. Add the pear halves, cover with foil and bake for 1 hour, until the pears are cooked through.
Meanwhile, combine the crushed almonds, amaretti and cinnamon.
Remove the pears from the oven. Add the Marsala to the liquid. Fill the pears with the almond mixture, top each with a piece of butter, cover with foil and return to the oven. After 20 minutes, remove the foil and return to the oven for 10 minutes.
Leave to cool slightly before serving. Serve with the juice drizzled over the top and some mascarpone cream or ice cream if desired.
Cassata Siciliana al forno, di Elisabetta
Elisabetta’s Sicilian baked cassata with ricotta
This recipe was given to me by my friend, Italian food blogger and exceptional pastry cook, Elisabetta Iudica. She just loves to bake and made this lovely Sicilian dessert for me. It is a lighter, less sweet variation of the traditional marzipan cassata; fresh ricotta and chocolate chips fill a delicate sweet pastry. Delicious as an after-dinner dessert or for afternoon tea, or, for me, with a freshly made espresso. Thank you, Elisabetta, for sharing your recipe and for keeping Italian cooking traditions alive and kicking in your food blog, La Mia Kitchenette.
Serves 8
for the pastry
300g/10½oz/scant 2½ cups ‘00’ flour, sifted, plus extra to dust
½ tsp baking powder
a pinch of salt
150g/5½oz/generous ½ cup unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, plus extra to grease
150g/5½oz/¾ cup caster (superfine) sugar
1 egg
2 egg yolks
icing (confectioners’) sugar, to dust
for the filling
500g/1lb 2oz/2 cups fresh ricotta, drained if necessary
200g/7oz/1 cup caster (superfine) sugar
30g/1oz dark chocolate chips
First make the pastry. Combine the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar, add the egg and yolks and work into a smooth dough. Alternatively, put all the ingredients in a food processor and whizz until they come together. Form the dough into a ball, wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave in the fridge for a couple of hours.
Meanwhile, to make the filling, combine the ricotta, sugar and chocolate chips, but do not overmix. Cover with clingfilm and leave in the fridge until ready to use.
Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/gas mark 3. Lightly grease and flour a 20cm/8-inch round loose-bottomed cake tin.
Take about two-thirds of the pastry, roll out on a lightly floured surface and line the bottom and sides of the prepared tin. Using a fork, prick all over the pastry to prevent bubbles. Fill with the ricotta mixture, smoothing it over. Roll out the remaining pastry and cover the ricotta mixture, flattening it with your hand; seal around the edge with a fork, ensuring there are no gaps; the cake must be flat without a raised border.
Bake for 50-60 minutes, until golden all over. Leave to cool before removing from the tin and then leave for at least 2 hours before serving. Dust with icing sugar and serve.
Pampapato
Spiced chocolate treat
This nutty and spicy dense chocolate sweet treat originates from the province of Ferrara in Emilia-Romagna. The name pampapato means ‘bread of the pope’ because it was traditionally made in monasteries and convents and is shaped like the cap worn by the pope. Very simple to make, it is slow-baked at a low temperature. It is best made a couple of days before consuming. It is quite rich, so cut into thin slices when serving. Actually, it makes a nice energy snack when you’re on the go and in need of a boost.
Serves 6
200g/7oz/generous 1½ cups plain (all-purpose) flour
100g/3½oz/⅔ cup whole almonds
100g/3½oz/generous 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
70g/2½oz/⅓ cup caster (superfine) sugar
50g/1¾oz/2½ tbsp runny honey
1 tsp mixed spice
20g/¾oz/2 tbsp raisins
125ml/4fl oz/½ cup milk
a little extra virgin olive oil, to rub
100g/3½oz dark chocolate
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas mark 2. Line a baking sheet with greaseproof (waxed) paper.
Combine the flour, almonds, cocoa, sugar, honey, spice and raisins in a bowl. Gradually stir in the milk and mix well with your hands. Form into a domed shape about 12cm/5 inches in diameter, place on the prepared baking sheet, coat your hands with a little extra virgin olive oil and massage all over the pampapato. Bake for 1½ hours.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely.
Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water and pour over the pampapato, spreading with a palette knife. Leave until set, and store in an airtight container until required.
Tiramisu al passito e arancia
Tiramisu with passito and orange
This popular dessert can be seen on menus of Italian restaurants all over the world. It is usually made with espresso coffee and sometimes double (heavy) cream is added, too. To make it less calorific I have simply used mascarpone, which in itself is rich, and to give it a bit of a twist I have used orange juice and a little passito, a Sicilian dessert wine, to soak the biscuits. If you don’t have passito you can use another sweet wine, or if making this for children, omit the alcohol altogether. Make sure you use fresh orange juice, as the bought stuff can be sweet and sickly. Simple to prepare, with no cooking involved, it’s not an ‘instant’ dessert because it is best made the day before and left to set in the fridge.
Serves 4
1 egg yolk
1 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
½ vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out
250g/9oz/generous 1 cup mascarpone cheese
175ml/6fl oz/¾ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tbsp passito, or other sweet wine
12 savoiardi biscuits
cocoa powder, sifted, to dust
grated zest of ½ orange
Combine the egg yolk, sugar and vanilla seeds in a bowl and whisk until creamy. Add the mascarpone and continue to whisk until well mixed. Set aside.
Combine the orange juice and wine. Dip the biscuits quickly into this liquid, letting them absorb a little but not too much, otherwise they will fall apart. Line a large glass dish or four individual dishes with some of the biscuits, followed by a layer of the mascarpone mixture and, depending on the size of your dish, continue making layers like this, ending up with the mascarpone. Dust with cocoa powder and top with a little orange zest. Leave in the fridge for at least 6 hours or overnight.
Ciambella alle mandorle
Almond tea cake
This is similar to a tea loaf but round and plaited (braided) in traditional Italian ciambella style. Italian housewives often made a cake just like this one to use leftover bread dough. Not very sweet but with the subtle taste of almonds, this is a perfect tea time treat or delicious for breakfast with a cappuccino.
Serves 6-8
1 x 7g sachet of dried yeast
200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup lukewarm milk
600g/1lb 5oz/5 cups strong (bread) flour, plus extra to dust
½ vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out
100g/3½oz/½ cup caster (superfine) sugar
100g/3½oz/1 cup ground almonds 100g/3½oz/¾ cup sultanas (golden raisins)
125g/4½oz/generous ½ cup butter, melted
60g/2¼oz/½ cup flaked (slivered) almonds
a little icing (confectioners’) sugar, sifted, to dust
Check the instructions on the packet of yeast; if necessary, dissolve the yeast in the milk.
In a large bowl, combine the flour, vanilla seeds, sugar, ground almonds and sultanas. Make a well in the centre and gradually add the yeast and milk followed by 100g/3½oz/7 tbsp of the butter, mixing with your hands to form a dough. Knead on a lightly floured surface for about 5 minutes, cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 2 hours.
Divide the dough into three equal parts and roll each into a long sausage shape, roughly 55cm/22 inches in length. Plait the dough and join at the end to make a round cake. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment, put the ciambella on top, cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rise for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Bake the ciambella for 35 minutes. Remove from the oven, brush the top with the remaining melted butter, sprinkle with flaked almonds and return to the oven for 10 minutes. Leave on a wire rack to cool slightly and dust with icing sugar before serving.
Pastiera di grano
Springtime wheat and ricotta pie
It is believed that this dessert dates back to pagan times, when ancient Neapolitans in springtime offered all the fruits of their land to the mermaid Partenope: eggs for fertility, wheat from the land, ricotta from the shepherds, the aroma of orange flowers, vanilla to symbolize faraway countries and sugar in honour of the sweet mermaid. It is said the mermaid took all these ingredients, immersed herself in the sea of the Bay of Naples and gave back to the Neapolitans a dessert that symbolized fertility and rebirth. The recipe as we know it today was first made in Neapolitan convents; the nuns would make it for the local nobility. Today in the region of Campania, Easter would not be the same without this traditional dessert. It is found in pastry shops all over the region and also made at home, usually in large quantities, to be given away as gifts to family and friends. The pre-cooked wheat is sold in jars in good Italian delis. Alternatively, you can make it with pearl barley, cooked according to the instructions on the packet. The pies can be made a few days in advance and stored in the fridge until required.
Makes 2 x 18cm/7-inch round pies;
about 8 servings
for the pastry
250g/9oz/2 cups plain (all-purpose) flour, plus extra to dust
100g/3½oz/7 tbsp cold butter, cut into small pieces
100g/3½oz/½ cup caster (superfine) sugar
grated zest of 1 orange
2 egg yolks
a little milk, to brush
a little icing (confectioners’) sugar, to dust
for the filling
350g/12oz pre-cooked wheat or cooked pearl barley
150ml/5fl oz/⅔ cup full-fat milk
20g/¾oz/1½ tbsp butter
a pinch of ground cinnamon
350g/12oz/1½ cups ricotta
½ vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out
250g/9oz/1¼ cups caster (superfine) sugar
grated zest of 1 orange
1 tbsp orange-flower water
3 eggs
2 egg yolks
for the crema pasticciera
200ml/7fl oz/scant 1 cup milk
¼ vanilla pod
2 egg yolks
85g/3oz/scant ½ cup caster (superfine) sugar
20g/¾oz/2½ tbsp cornflour (cornstarch)
First make the pastry. Sift the flour into a large bowl and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in the sugar and orange zest, add the egg yolks and mix to form a smooth dough. Form into a ball, wrap in clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave in the fridge for at least 1 hour.
To make the filling, put the wheat, milk, butter and cinnamon in a small saucepan on a low heat and bring to the boil, stirring all the time, until the wheat has absorbed all the milk and the mixture is creamy. Leave to cool.
To make the crema pasticciera, put the milk in a small saucepan together with the vanilla pod and place on a medium-low heat until the milk reaches boiling point. Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl until light and fluffy, add the cornflour and whisk until smooth. When the milk reaches boiling point, remove from the heat, discard the vanilla pod and gradually pour the milk into the egg mixture, whisking all the time to prevent lumps from forming. Once well combined, pour the mixture back into the saucepan on a medium heat and stir with a wooden spoon. As soon as it begins to boil, remove from the heat immediately and leave to cool.
Take the wheat mixture and whisk in the ricotta, vanilla seeds, sugar, orange zest and orange-flower water; gradually mix in the eggs and yolks. Add the crema pasticciera and combine well together. Set aside.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface and line 2 x 18cm/7-inch diameter round loose-bottomed pie dishes or shallow cake tins, reserving the trimmings. Pour in the wheat and ricotta mixture. Roll out the pastry trimmings and cut out long strips about 2cm/¾ inch wide; arrange these criss-cross over the pies. Brush a little milk over the strips, then bake for 50 minutes, until golden brown.
Switch the oven off and leave the pies to set in the warm oven for about an hour. Remove and leave to cool completely. Sift over some icing sugar before serving.
Torrone
Italian nougat
Torrone is a nougat traditionally enjoyed at Christmas time in Italy; probably the most famous Italian torrone comes from Cremona in northern Italy, where legend has it that it was first made for an important wedding in the fifteenth century. Although torrone is normally bought from shops, you can make it at home. This recipe is a labour of love. Be prepared to spend a couple of hours stirring - ideally get someone to help you. You can flavour the torrone any way you wish - add candied fruit, orange zest, vanilla, cinnamon or coat it with melted chocolate. Slice in chunks, wrap in pretty tissue paper and ribbon and you have a lovely present.
Makes 500g/1lb 2oz
30g/1oz/3 tbsp shelled pistachio nuts
200g/7oz/1⅓ cups whole almonds, skinned
100g/3½oz/¾ cup whole hazelnuts, skinned
a sheet of rice paper
a little walnut oil, to grease 150g/5½oz/
scant ½ cup runny honey
150g/5½oz/¾ cup caster (superfine) sugar
2 egg whites
grated zest of 1 lemon (reserve the lemon)
First toast all the nuts (see tip). You will need a small loaf tin, about 19 x 8cm/7½ x 3¼ inches. Cut a piece of rice paper the same size as the bottom of the tin and another piece slightly larger and set aside. Lightly grease the sides of the tin with walnut oil and turn upside down so the oil doesn’t run on the bottom of the tin.
Put the honey in a saucepan and cook over another pan of gently simmering water (or use a double-boiler), stirring all the time with a wooden spoon for 1½ hours.
About 20 minutes before the end of this time, put the sugar and 3 tablespoons water in a small saucepan on a low heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring until the sugar has dissolved and is syrupy. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg whites until stiff. Gradually fold the egg whites into the honey, still cooking over simmering water, and stir well for 5 minutes. Gradually stir in the syrup. Continue to stir for 30 minutes.
Stir the nuts and lemon zest into the honey mixture. Line the loaf tin with the smaller piece of rice paper and pour in the honey mixture, pressing well with a wet spatula, then press well again with half a lemon. Put the remaining piece of rice paper over the top, pressing well with your hands. Leave to rest for 2 hours in a cool place - but not in the fridge.
Tip the torrone out of the tin onto a board and slice with a sharp knife. If you want to give the torrone as a gift, wrap it in greaseproof (waxed) paper and store in an airtight container for up to 2 months.
Toasting nuts
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Put the nuts on a baking sheet and toast for about 15 minutes, until light golden brown and crunchy. If you haven’t been able to find skinned nuts, toasting will make it easy to rub off the skins. Set aside to cool.
Panettone
Traditional Italian Christmas cake
If you have ever wondered how to make your own panettone, and you enjoy a challenge as well as have a day to spare, this recipe is for you. The dough needs to rest at the end of each stage: this is what gives panettone its characteristic lightness. And of course you can get on with other things during these times. Ideally you will have a loose-bottomed panettone tin, 18cm/7 inches in diameter and 10cm/4 inches high - you could also use a slightly shallower and wider loose-bottomed cake tin.
There are many legends about how this cake originated and it appears that in ancient times the Romans sweetened a dough-like cake with honey; it is also said that poor people added a little dried fruit and sugar to bread dough as a Christmas treat. However, panettone as we know it today was created in Milan by two pastry chefs, Motta and Alemagna, in the early twentieth century. Its popularity spread over the years and it is produced industrially by many large companies, making it affordable for all Italians and becoming Italy’s leading Christmas cake. In recent years it has evolved with flavourings such as chocolate, liqueur cream and others, but I find the original one with dried fruit and candied peel the best. In Italy panettone is traditionally served with a glass of spumante (light sparkling wine) at the end of the Christmas meal, but it is equally delicious with dessert wine or simply a nice cup of espresso or even tea.
Makes a 1.2kg/2lb 10oz cake
125g/4½oz/¾ cup sultanas (golden raisins)
1 tbsp rum
12g/¼oz fresh yeast
150g/5½oz/¾ cup caster (superfine) sugar, plus 1 tsp
4 tbsp lukewarm milk
500g/1lb 2oz/4 cups ‘00’ flour
4 eggs, plus 3 egg yolks
150g/5½oz/generous ½ cup butter, softened at room temperature, plus a knob for the top
3g salt
40g/1½oz candied peel
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 vanilla pod, split lengthways and seeds scraped out
Step 1
Soak the sultanas with the rum and a little lukewarm water and set aside.
Dissolve 10g of the yeast together with 1 tsp sugar in the milk. Put 100g/3½oz/generous ¾ cup flour in a bowl, pour in the yeast mixture and work into a smooth dough. Form into a ball, cover the bowl with clingfilm (plastic wrap) and leave to rest in a warm place for about 1 hour, until it has doubled in size.
Step 2
Add 2 eggs to the bowl, crumble in the remaining yeast, add 175g/6oz/1½ cups flour and mix well. Add 60g/2¼oz sugar and 60g/2¼oz butter and use your hands to incorporate all the ingredients to form a sticky dough. Form into a ball, cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave to rest in a warm place for 2 hours, until it has doubled in size.
Step 3
Drain and squeeze the excess liquid out of the sultanas and set aside.
Add the remaining 2 eggs, 3 yolks and the remaining flour to the dough and work with your hands for 10 minutes - the dough will still be quite sticky. Mix in the remaining sugar and the salt. Mix in 50g/1¾oz butter until well amalgamated, then add the remaining butter. Add the candied peel, lemon zest, sultanas and vanilla seeds. Mix well, cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave in a warm place for at least 2 hours, until the mixture has doubled in size.
Step 4
Meanwhile, lightly grease a loose-bottomed panettone tin, 18cm/7 inches in diameter and 10cm/4 inches high (or other cake tin) and line with baking parchment.
Turn the dough mixture onto a lightly floured work surface and work for a minute, then place in the prepared tin, cover with clingfilm and leave to rest in a warm place for at least 2 hours, until it has doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
Using a small sharp knife, make a cross on the top and place a knob of butter in the middle. Place on the bottom shelf of the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5 and continue to bake for 45 minutes. If you notice the top of the cake getting too dark too quickly, reduce the oven temperature to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly in the tin. Remove from the tin and leave to cool on a wire rack.
Babà all’arancia
Orange-infused baba
Babà is a classic Neapolitan dessert which, according to legend, was introduced by the French and is usually made with rum. In my region, where lemons are plentiful, the pastry shops often make it with limoncello liqueur. For this recipe, I decided to give oranges a go, and they really work well. You need to make this at least one day before you intend to serve it because, once cooked, it needs to be ‘dried out’ overnight before being soaked in the syrup. This is the original large babà, made in a ring mould, rather than the small babàs sold in pastry shops.
Serves 8-10
450g/1lb/scant 4 cups ‘00’ flour
50g/1¾oz/¼ cup caster (superfine) sugar
a pinch of salt
40g/1½oz fresh yeast, diluted in 2 tbsp lukewarm water
8 eggs
150g/5½oz/generous ½ cup butter, softened, plus extra to grease
for the syrup
2 large oranges
400g/14oz/2 cups granulated sugar
100ml/3½fl oz/scant ½ cup orange liqueur, or more if you prefer a stronger taste
Grease a 22cm/8½-inch fluted babà or savarin mould with butter.
Combine the flour, sugar, salt and yeast mixture in a large bowl. Whisk in the eggs and softened butter for about 10 minutes, until the mixture comes away from the sides of the bowl. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rise in a warm place for 30 minutes, until the mixture has doubled in size. Beat the mixture for a minute, then pour into the greased mould and leave to rise in a warm place for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Bake the babà for 40 minutes, until well risen and golden brown. Leave to cool slightly in the mould, then turn out onto a wire rack and leave to dry out overnight.
Meanwhile, make the syrup. Using a vegetable peeler, peel the zest of the oranges in strips, taking care not to remove any of the white pith; set aside a few pieces and cut into thinner strips. Put the sugar in a saucepan and add 1.5 litres/2¾ pints/1½ quarts water and the orange zest, stir well until the sugar has dissolved, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer very gently for 1 hour. Strain through a fine sieve and leave to cool. Add the orange liqueur and set aside.
Put the syrup in a container large enough to hold the babà. Very carefully place the babà inside and, using a ladle, drizzle the syrup all over the cake. When well soaked, carefully remove the babà, with the help of a fish slice, and place on a serving plate. Decorate with the reserved orange zest and serve.