Deliciously Irish (2015)

PRESERVES

Slea Head and Coumeenoole Beach.

Loganberry and Plum Jam

Raspberry Jam

Rose-Petal Vinegar

Christmas Chutney

Rowanberry Jelly

LOGANBERRY AND PLUM JAM

MAKES 5 X 225 G/8 OZ JARS

It seems more like fun to make small quantities of different jams with whatever is to hand, and this intensely flavoured combination is well worth the half-hour it takes. If there are no gooseberries, use more lemon juice.

450 g/1 lb plums

110 g/4 oz gooseberries

450 g/1 lb loganberries

900 g/2 lb caster sugar

juice of ½ lemon

425 ml/15 fl oz water

Simmer the plums and gooseberries in the water until the plums are soft enough to remove the stones. Cut the plums in pieces, if they are large, and return them to the water. Add the loganberries, bring back to the boil and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, pour in the sugar and lemon juice and stir until completely dissolved.

Boil hard for 7-10 minutes until a few drops cooled on a chilled saucer will wrinkle when pushed with the finger. Pour into hot, sterilised pots and cover. The jars can be sterilised in the oven or dishwasher.

RASPBERRY JAM

MAKES 5 X 250 G/12 OZ JARS

The raspberry season is so short, but jams and preserves help to prolong the taste of summer.

1.4 kg/3 lb caster sugar

1.4 kg/3 lb raspberries

225 g/8 oz redcurrants

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Put the caster sugar into an ovenproof dish and warm gently in the oven.

Put the fruit in a stainless steel saucepan over a very low heat until the juice begins to flow, then bring very slowly to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour in the warmed sugar and lemon juice, and stir until the sugar has completely dissolved.

Boil hard until it sets when tested. Start testing after 8 minutes. Put some saucers to chill in the freezer and then test by putting a few drops of the mixture on a saucer and allowing to cool. If the surface of the drop wrinkles when pushed with a finger, the jam is ready. Pot in hot, dry, sterilised jars and seal immediately.

ROSE-PETAL VINEGAR

Use this delicate vinegar to flavour summer salads, or try a few drops on summer fruits, such as strawberries and raspberries; it seems to bring out the flavours. The choice of the base vinegar is important. Use a good-quality white-wine vinegar, or organic cider vinegar. Rice vinegar, which can be bought from oriental shops, is particularly delicate in flavour.

Measure equal quantities of vinegar and scented rose petals, about 2 large cupfuls of each. Put them together in a glass container and cover tightly. They should be left to steep on a sunny window for at least 3 weeks. If you like a stronger flavour, strain off the petals and add fresh ones, then steep a little longer. Strain into bottles and cork tightly. Elderflower vinegar can be made the same way.

Glandore Village, County Cork.

CHRISTMAS CHUTNEY

MAKES ABOUT 5 X 350 G/12 OZ JARS

900 g/2 lb Bramley or other cooking apples

350 g/12 oz onions, finely chopped

300 ml/½ pint white-wine or malt vinegar

225 g/8 oz white sugar

75 g/3 oz brown sugar

225 g/8 oz mixed nuts, e.g. chestnuts, walnuts and almonds

2 teaspoons ground ginger

grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon salt

Peel, core and chop the apples. Cook the onions in the vinegar until soft. Add the apples, cook for 3-4 minutes, and then add the remaining ingredients and simmer gently until the mixture begins to thicken, lowering the heat and stirring frequently to prevent it from burning.

Pot into warm, sterilised jars with plastic-lined lids (metal would react with the vinegar).

Note: chutneys improve with keeping, the flavours becoming more subtle after about 2-3 months. If the chutney is made for immediate use, wine vinegar is best as malt vinegar needs time to mellow.

ROWANBERRY JELLY

MAKES 6 X 350 G/12 OZ JARS

The rowan tree, or mountain ash, like the elder tree, had important magical properties for our Celtic ancestors. The red berries make an excellent jelly for game, hams and pâtés, the flavour maturing as it ages. Rowanberry jelly can be used instead of redcurrant jelly in sauces and with lamb.

1.4 kg/3 lb rowanberries

2 large Bramleys or other cooking apples, coarsely chopped

grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

granulated sugar

Put the rowanberries in a large saucepan and crush them slightly. Add the coarsely chopped apples (no need to peel or core) and lemon zest. Just cover with water and cook until both are very soft.

Strain overnight, through a jelly bag. An old linen tea-towel over a large plastic colander can be used. Be careful not to squeeze the bag - it must drip naturally, or the jelly will be cloudy.

Measure the juice collected, add the lemon juice, and allow 450 g/1 lb sugar to 600 ml/1 pint liquid. Boil hard until a few drops on a chilled saucer will wrinkle when pressed with a finger. Pot into hot, sterilised jars with plastic-lined lids and seal tightly.

Sea inlet mountains, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry.