Deliciously Irish (2015)
MAINS
Slea Head and Coumeenoole Beach, County Kerry.
Hake Baked in Paper
Salmon Cakes with Dill Sauce
Butter Bean Hot Pot
Fricassée of Pork
Chicken and Cheese Wrapped in Bacon
Spring Lamb Cutlets in Pastry
Irish Stew
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Chicken and Ham Pasties
Mackerel with Gooseberry Sauce
Baked Salmon with a Herb Crust
Scallops with Tarragon Sauce
Ham in Pastry
Jellied Tongue
Ragout of Scallops and Bacon
Braised Stuffed Pheasants with Irish Whiskey Sauce
Lamb with Crab Apple Jelly
Roast Michaelmas Goose, with Prune, Apple and Potato Stuffing
Pork and Apple Pie
Chicken Pie with Cashew Nuts
Baked Cod with Mushrooms
Rabbit with Almonds
Ragout of Cod and Clams
Spiced Beef
Venison Pasties
Beef and Mushroom Pie with Guinness
Breast of Chicken with Walnut and Apple
Stuffed Pork Chops with Potato-Apple Fritters
Roast Turkey with Stuffing
HAKE BAKED IN PAPER
SERVES 4
This method of cooking was widely used in the past to protect delicate morsels from the heat of the open fire. Writing paper was often specified in the recipes. Baking parchment, however is the ideal material, sealing in the flavours and appearing somehow more aesthetic on the plate than foil. Serve with a selection of roasted vegetables (see note).
4 hake fillets, weighing 110-225 g/4-8 oz each
55 g/2 oz butter
1 large red pepper
few sprigs fresh dill or marjoram
4 tablespoons dry vermouth or white wine
8-10 live mussels, scrubbed and bearded, to garnish
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.
Cut 4 pieces of baking parchment large enough to enclose the pieces of fish. Season and butter the fish well and place one on each piece of parchment. Slice the pepper into thin rounds, removing any seeds or white membrane, and place one or two slices on top of each piece of fish. Sprinkle a a sprig or two of dill or marjoram on each and pour on a tablespoon of vermouth or wine. Bring the two sides of the paper together and pleat lengthways, tucking the ends firmly under the packet to seal.
Place the fish parcels in a baking dish and bake for about 20-25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Steam the mussels open in a covered pan with a few tablespoons of water. Discard any that don’t open. When the fish is ready, cut a slit in the paper with scissors, slide in the mussels and herbs and serve.
Note: a mixture of seasonal vegetables, such as red and green peppers, celery, shallots and courgettes, can be brushed with olive oil and roasted in the oven at the same time. Include some unpeeled cloves of garlic and sprigs of thyme. Cut the vegetables into equal-size pieces and put them into the oven about 20 minutes before the fish goes in. They take about 40 minutes to cook in a hot oven.
SALMON CAKES WITH DILL SAUCE
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE, OR 8 AS A STARTER
To make these fish cakes, use either a tail piece or cutlets or, better still, the buttery remains of a whole salmon.
675 g/1½ lb salmon
3 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
75 g/3 oz butter, melted
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh herbs
140 g/5 oz breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon whipped cream, if necessary
1 egg, beaten
2 tablespoons each wholemeal flour and breadcrumbs, mixed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
oil and butter, for frying
fresh green salad, to serve
FOR THE DILL SAUCE
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon plain flour
240 ml/8 fl oz hot milk
3-4 tablespoons crème fraîche
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill or 2 teaspoons dried dill
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Poach the salmon in lightly salted water for 12-15 minutes. Remove any skin and bones and flake the fish. Sauté the shallot in a little of the butter until soft.
Mix the salmon, shallot, egg yolk, lemon juice, all but 1 tablespoon of the melted butter, the herbs and seasoning together. Add the 140 g/5 oz of breadcrumbs and work well together. Add a spoonful of cream if the mixture is too dry. Flour the hands well, then shape into 4 or 8 cakes, patting them firmly into shape. Dip into the beaten egg and then into the breadcrumb and flour mixture to coat.
Melt the remaining butter and oil in a large frying-pan and cook the cakes for 5-6 minutes on each side until crisp and very hot.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan, whisk in the flour and stir until cooked, about a minute. Off the heat, gradually whisk in the hot milk. Bring back to the boil and stir until the sauce thickens. Remove from the heat, add the crème fraîche and dill and season to taste.
Drain the salmon cakes on kitchen paper and serve with the dill sauce and a green salad.
BUTTER BEAN HOT POT
SERVES 4-5
This is the kind of warming, comforting supper we all love to come home to.
225 g/8 oz butter beans, soaked overnight
oil, for frying
450 g/1 lb onions, sliced
450 g/1 lb piece of bacon, streaky or collar cut, cubed
450 g/1 lb sharp cooking apples, peeled and sliced
450 g/1 lb potatoes, sliced
chopped fresh thyme
1 or 2 fresh sage leaves
300 ml/½ pint stock or water
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Drain the beans, cover with fresh water, bring to the boil and boil for 10 minutes, then simmer gently until almost soft but not breaking up, about 40 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2. Brown the meat in a little oil in a heavy pan. Remove the meat, then brown the onions in the same pan. Layer the onions, bacon, apples, potatoes and beans in a greased ovenproof casserole, sprinkling with pepper and thyme and tucking in the sage leaves. Finish with a layer of potatoes. Add a very little salt, lots of black pepper and pour the stock over everything. Cover with foil or a lid, and bake for about 1½ hours.
Remove the foil and continue cooking until the potatoes are brown. Add a little more stock, if necessary. A simple green salad is all you need with this.
Slea Head ruins, County Kerry.
FRICASSÉE OF PORK
SERVES 6
1 large onion, chopped
30 g/1 oz butter
1 tablespoon oil
350 g/12 oz button mushrooms
900 g/2 lb boneless pork, cubed
1 tablespoon plain flour
2 teaspoons ground cumin
150 ml/¼ pint dry white wine or stock
300 ml/½ pint whipping cream
2 celery sticks, thinly sliced
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/Gas Mark 2. Soften the onion in half the butter and oil, then transfer to an ovenproof dish. Add the mushrooms to the pan and cook for a few minutes until lightly browned. Pour, with any juice, into the dish. Toss the cubed pork in the flour and cumin and brown in the pan with the remaining oil and butter. Add to the dish. Sprinkle any remaining flour into the pan and stir for a few moments to cook. Add the wine or stock, scraping up all the sediment thoroughly. Now add the cream, check and adjust the seasoning and stir well.
Pour over the pork mixture, stir in the thinly sliced celery, cover and cook gently until the pork is tender, 45-60 minutes. Serve with creamy mashed potatoes, rice or noodles.
Portmagee Village, County Kerry.
CHICKEN AND CHEESE WRAPPED IN BACON
SERVES 4
Cashel Blue cheese, from Tipperary and widely available in cheese shops, gives just the right note of acidity to the chicken.
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
8 rindless streaky bacon rashers
2-3 fresh sage leaves, torn
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
175 g/6 oz Cashel Blue cheese
30 g/1 oz butter
a glass of white wine, vermouth or chicken stock
2-3 tablespoons whipping cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
crisp green salad or fresh vegetables, to serve
TO GARNISH
lemon wedges
fresh sage leaves
Place a chicken breast flat on a board and, with a sharp knife, slice in two horizontally. Cover each piece with clingfilm and beat gently with a rolling pin until slightly larger. Cut each bacon rasher in two and stretch them out by stroking with the blade of a large knife. Lay two pieces of bacon side by side on the board, put a small piece of sage on top and cover with a piece of chicken. Season the chicken well and sprinkle with lemon zest.
Cut the cheese into 8 fingers and place one on each piece of chicken, roll up the bacon and chicken and secure with cocktail sticks or thread. Continue with the rest of the bacon and chicken until you have 8 rolls. In a heavy pan, brown the rolls in the butter, turning frequently, for about 10 minutes until the chicken is cooked and the cheese is beginning to melt.
Transfer the rolls to a hot dish and remove the cocktail sticks. Add the wine, vermouth or stock to the pan, scraping up all the sediment, and bubbling well for a few moments to reduce the wine. Add the cream, bubble again for 2-3 minutes, then check and adjust the seasoning. Pour a little sauce onto the centre of each plate and arrange the rolls on top.
Garnish with lemon wedges and a few sage leaves. Serve with a crisp salad or a green vegetable.
Ogham Stones, Kilmalkader, County Kerry.
SPRING LAMB CUTLETS IN PASTRY
SERVES 4
Easter is the time of renewal and lamb symbolises the return of life in many cultures. Roast baby lamb is the traditional Easter Sunday dinner and is pure magic, especially when it’s moist and tender and delicately pink. As a change from the usual leg of lamb, try this rack of lamb in pastry, a great party dish and very easy to carve - simply cut down between the cutlet bones. You will need 2 cutlets per person, possibly 3 if they are very tiny. This sauce is invariably served with lamb in Ireland and it’s very much an eighteenth-century idea, the vinegar counteracting the fattiness of the meat.
1 rack of lamb (about 8 cutlets)
450 g/1 lb puff pastry
55 g/2 oz butter
4 shallots, finely chopped
225 g/8 oz mushrooms, finely chopped
110 g/4 oz dried apricots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint or oregano
1 egg, beaten, to glaze
½ tablespoon grated lemon zest and 1 tablespoon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE MINT SAUCE
1-2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1-2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
1-2 tablespoons cider or white wine vinegar
3-4 tablespoons water
Preheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7. Rub the lamb with half the butter and season well. Roast the meat for 8-10 minutes, depending on the size of the cutlets. Allow to cool completely.
Gently cook the shallots, mushrooms, apricots and mint or oregano in the remaining butter until the juices have thickened. Season this well with lemon zest, lemon juice and plenty of black pepper. Press the stuffing between the cutlets. Roll out the pastry into a sheet large enough to enclose the rack and fold around the meat, allowing the bones to stick out through the pastry. Cover these with foil to prevent them from burning.
Decorate with pastry trimmings. Wash over the pastry with the beaten egg. Heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 and bake until the pastry is browned, about 25-30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce, bring all the ingredients to the boil, then remove from the heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Allow to cool. More or less mint can be added and apple jelly can be used instead of the sugar, if you prefer. Serve the lamb with the mint sauce.
IRISH STEW
SERVES 6
There is much argument concerning the authentic Irish stew, but for most of us, I suspect, the ‘authentic’ dish is the one made in our own families. The pure tradition uses only mutton, potatoes, onion, thyme and seasoning, and this, I think, is generally agreed to be the thing. In my home, barley was included and some contemporary recipes include carrots, and even celery, so you can make your own choice.
450 g/1 lb onions
1.15 kg/2½ lb potatoes
900 g/2 lb neck of lamb chops
30 g/1 oz butter
2 carrots, chopped
2 celery sticks, chopped
1 large fresh thyme sprig
450 ml/¾ pint water or lamb stock
salt and white pepper
Chop the onions coarsely. Peel and slice the potatoes thickly. Season the chops well with salt and pepper.
Put the butter in the bottom of a heavy saucepan and then layer the meat and vegetables, finishing with a layer of potatoes. Bury the thyme in the centre. Pour in the stock or water. Cover the pan tightly with foil and a lid, bring to the boil and then immediately lower the heat and cook gently on the lowest possible heat for about 1½ hours. The meat and vegetables should cook in their juices with very little liquid left at the end, so watch for burning. It may be necessary to add more liquid.
Note: the stew can also be cooked in the oven and if barley is included it’s less likely to burn in the oven.
CORNED BEEF AND CABBAGE
SERVES 6-8
‘Corned’ beef, an old word for pickled beef, can be prepared at home using the method for Spiced Beef, leaving out the spices.
1.3-1.8 kg/3-4 lb beef brisket
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 celery sticks, coarsely chopped
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon mustard powder
2-3 cloves
1 green or savoy cabbage
boiled potatoes with butter and mustard, to serve
Prepare the beef as for Spiced Beef and leave to pickle for 10 days in the fridge, turning from time to time, then drain the meat, discarding the pickle, and pat dry. If you are buying shop-pickled beef, soak the meat for several hours in cold water.
When ready to cook, put the meat with the vegetables and seasonings, except the cabbage, into a large saucepan. Cover with cold water and bring it to the boil very slowly. Simmer gently for about 2 hours (20 minutes per 450 g/1 lb). When the meat is tender, turn off the heat and rest it in the water for 30 minutes, while you prepare the cabbage.
Wash and quarter the cabbage and put in a large saucepan with a ladleful of the cooking water from the meat. Pour in enough boiling water to cover half the depth of the cabbage. Boil hard, without a lid, until the cabbage is just tender. Drain and keep warm while you slice the beef. Arrange the meat on a deep dish and put the cabbage around it.
The traditional method is to put the cabbage into the pot with the meat for the last 15 minutes cooking time, but I feel the rather lean meat benefits from a resting period and the cabbage is less greasy when cooked on its own.
Serve with mustard and plain boiled potatoes, and of course, plenty of butter for the spuds.
CHICKEN AND HAM PASTIES
MAKES 4
These traditional pasties are ideal ‘prepare ahead’ food for summer eating. Pair them with salads and chutney, or baby new potatoes for lunches and family dinners, or pack them in boxes for days at the beach.
2 small leeks, finely chopped
100 g/3½ oz mushrooms, sliced
55 g/2 oz butter
1 tablespoon plain flour
300 ml/½ pint hot milk
¼ teaspoon coriander seeds
225 g/8 oz cooked chicken, finely chopped
225 g/8 oz cooked ham, finely chopped
1 teaspoon poppy seeds
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PASTRY
400 g/14 oz plain flour
225 g/8 oz butter
1 small egg, beaten, to glaze
salt, pinch
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5.
Make the pastry in the usual way by rubbing the butter into the flour and salt and moistening with 2-4 tablespoons of cold water, then roll it out and cut into four 15 cm/6 inch circles. Chill while you make the filling.
Sauté the leeks with the mushrooms in 30 g/1 oz butter. Set aside. Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for 2-3 minutes. Gradually add the hot milk, stirring continuously until the sauce thickens smoothly. Season well. Add the coriander seeds and the leek mixture and its juices. Cool completely.
Fold the finely chopped meats into the sauce and divide among the pastry circles. Dampen the edges with a little of the beaten egg, then draw up the 2 sides together, pinching well to seal. Place, seam-side down, on a greased baking sheet. Brush with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle with poppy seeds. Bake until the pastry is golden, 20-25 minutes.
MACKEREL WITH GOOSEBERRY SAUCE
SERVES 6
This is a combination that has its origins in the past, when fruit sauces with fish or meat were considered good for the digestion. Apple sauce with pork is another example. The elderflowers give a delicate muscatel flavour and were often added to apple and gooseberry tarts. Pick the elderflowers well away from dusty roadsides. The sauce can be either hot or cold and it’s equally good with kippers or pork.
6 mackerel, scaled and cleaned
2 tablespoons plain flour
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons fine oatmeal
butter and oil, for frying
salt and freshly ground black pepper
baby new potatoes and finely chopped scallions (spring onions), to serve
FOR THE GOOSEBERRY SAUCE
450 g/1 lb gooseberries
1-2 heads of elderflowers
2-3 tablespoons water
sugar, to taste
To make the sauce, gently cook the gooseberries and elderflowers with 2-3 tablespoons of water until soft. Remove the elderflowers, sweeten to taste and push through a sieve. Set aside.
Clean the mackerel, wash and dry, removing heads if preferred. Season the insides and flour well. Dip the mackerel in the beaten egg, then roll in the oatmeal. Melt a tablespoon each of butter and oil in a large non-stick frying-pan and fry the mackerel over a low heat until the flesh is opaque. Drain on kitchen paper and serve with the gooseberry sauce.
This is great with baby new potatoes, perked up with finely chopped scallions (spring onions) and lots of black pepper.
BAKED SALMON WITH A HERB CRUST
SERVES 6-7
For maximum effect and not too much effort, this baked salmon has it all. Ask your fishmonger to split your fish lengthways into two long fillets. A 1.3 kg/3lb fish will be enough for 6 with side dishes.
1.3-2.25 kg/3-5 lb salmon prepared into 2 filleted sides
2.5 cm/1 inch cube of fresh root ginger
6 tinned anchovies, drained
110 g/4 oz butter
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
3 tablespoons finely chopped scallions (spring onions)
grated zest of 1 lemon
75 g/3 oz breadcrumbs, made from day-old bread
FOR THE SAUCE
3 egg yolks
300 ml/½ pint whipping cream
5-6 sorrel leaves, ribs removed, leaves chopped
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon fresh chopped coriander or parsley
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3.
Mash the ginger to a paste with the anchovies, 75 g/3 oz of the butter, the parsley, scallions (spring onions) and grated zest of half the lemon. Butter a sheet of baking parchment which will fit the salmon and line a large baking tray. Lay one fillet of salmon on the paper, skin-side down, and spread with half the herb butter. Lay the other fillet on top, skin-side up, reversing the wide end over the narrow end of the bottom fillet. Spread the remaining herb butter on top. Cover the salmon with the breadcrumbs, patting them down lightly; season well and dot with the remaining butter. Bake in the oven for 12 minutes per 450 g/1 lb.
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Season the egg yolks and beat together. Bring the cream to the boil, with the sorrel leaves and lemon zest and cook to reduce for a few moments. Cool slightly, then pour slowly on to the yolks, stirring all the time. Return to the saucepan and over a low heat, cook, stirring continuously and without allowing it to boil, until the sauce thickens slightly.
When the fish is cooked, use the baking paper to lift the fish on to a heated serving dish and strain the buttery fish juices into the sauce. Add the coriander or parsley and serve.
Note: If the sauce shows signs of becoming lumpy, scrape immediately into a mini-blender and blitz for a few seconds.
SCALLOPS WITH TARRAGON SAUCE
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF THE SCALLOPS, OR 3-4 AS A MAIN COURSE
Tender, juicy scallops need very little cooking. Be sure to save the red corals when cleaning them.
175 ml/6 fl oz white wine
100 ml/3 fl oz water
grated zest and juice of ½ lemon
4-5 fresh tarragon leaves or a pinch of dried tarragon
12 scallops, cleaned
100 ml/3 fl oz cream
1 tablespoon butter
3 egg yolks, beaten
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley
mixed baby salad leaves, to garnish
2 teaspoons paprika
dressed salad, to serve
Put the wine, water, lemon juice and zest and tarragon leaves together in a saucepan and boil for 2-3 minutes. Add the scallops and corals and gently poach for 3-5 minutes, depending on size, until they are no longer translucent and just firm to the touch. Remove to a warm place.
Strain the cooking liquid into a small saucepan and boil rapidly, to reduce slightly. Add the cream and butter and simmer for 5-6 minutes. Now pour slowly on to the egg yolks, whisking well as you pour. Return the mixture to the saucepan over a very low heat and continue to stir until the sauce thickens slightly, being careful not to let it boil. Season well, add the parsley and more tarragon to taste.
Arrange the scallops on warm plates and pour the sauce over them. Add a little pile of dressed salad leaves to each plate and finish with a dusting of paprika.
Slea Head and Blasket Islands, Dingle Peninsula, County Kerry.
HAM IN PASTRY
SERVES 10 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 25 AS PART OF A PARTY SUPPER
Hams, and the art of cooking them, are well understood in Ireland and they are always popular for grand occasions. If the ham is to be eaten hot, seasonal vegetables and a well-made parsley sauce are the traditional partners. Rowanberry jelly or redcurrant jelly heated with a glass of port and a little orange juice, also makes an excellent sauce.
2.8-3.6 kg/6-8 lb fillet of ham
juniper berries
2 bay leaves
1 large onion, halved
2-3 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon mustard powder
900 g/2 lb puff or shortcrust pastry
2 tablespoons Dijon-type mild mustard
1 egg, beaten, to glaze
Soak the ham overnight in cold water if it seems to be salty; otherwise 1-2 hours will do.
When ready to cook, put the ham in a large saucepan, with a few juniper berries, the bay leaves and the onion halves. Add the sugar and mustard powder, cover with cold water, then bring to the boil slowly and, timing from when the water boils, simmer for 20 minutes per 450 g/1 lb. Test before the last 20 minutes, as it may not be necessary because the ham will cook a little more in the oven. When cooked, allow to cool for about 30 minutes in the water, then remove and peel off the skin and some of the fat if there is too much. Allow the ham to cool further.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5. Roll out the pastry into a large square that will cover the ham, keeping it a little thicker than usual. Rub Dijon mustard over the ham and then drape the pastry over the ham, cover it completely, tucking the pastry underneath, trimming the surplus and dampening and sealing the joins. Place on a baking tray, keeping the seams underneath as far as possible. Brush over with the beaten egg. Use the trimmings to make leaves etc. and brush over with the egg again. Make a vent at the highest point.
Bake for about 20 minutes. If serving the ham hot, cover the pastry loosely with foil, lower the heat to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3 for another 45 minutes or so, to ensure the ham is completely heated through.
JELLIED TONGUE
SERVES 6 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8-10 AS PART OF A PARTY SUPPER
Liked and disliked with equal intensity, a pressed pickled tongue is an essential ingredient of any Irish cold meat platter and, though it takes a long time to cook, the preparation is extremely simple. A little port added to the stock gives a zing to the jelly. Small, ready-trimmed tongues are widely available and usually don’t need to be soaked; larger tongues may need soaking overnight.
1 tongue, weighing about 900 g/2 lb
1 onion
1 carrot
1 celery stick
1 or 2 cloves or ½ star anise
2 teaspoons black peppercorns
1 orange
4 teaspoons/11 g or ½ oz sachet/3 leaves gelatine
a glass of port
spicy Cumberland sauce or horseradish sauce, to serve
Place the tongue in a large saucepan and cover with cold water. Add the vegetables, cloves, peppercorns and a large strip of orange zest. Bring to the boil very slowly and simmer gently until a skewer will slide in easily. This can take from 2-4 hours, depending on its size. Remove the tongue from the water when cool enough to handle and peel off the skin and any gristle. Return the tongue to the stock, to keep warm.
Strain off 300 ml/½ pint of the cooking liquid and use a little to dissolve the gelatine, according to the packet directions. Put the remainder in a small saucepan, with the port and the juice of ½ the orange. Boil hard to reduce for 1-2 minutes; cool slightly, then add the dissolved gelatine. Put the warm tongue in a bowl or mould that will just hold it. Pour over enough of the port jelly to cover it when it is pressed down well with a plate or saucer. Put a weight on top of the plate (tin cans or a stone) and leave overnight. Set aside any remaining port jelly to set, for the garnish.
To serve, remove any fat from the top, turn out the tongue and carve in thin slices. Decorate with the chopped jelly. Spicy Cumberland sauce or horseradish cream can be served with it.
RAGOUT OF SCALLOPS AND BACON
SERVES 4
8 large scallops, cleaned
30 g/1 oz butter
4 streaky bacon rashers
1 onion, chopped
2-3 scallions (spring onions), chopped
225 g/8 oz mixed shiitake and oyster mushrooms
2 teaspoons plain flour
150 ml/¼ pint white wine
150 ml/¼ pint whipping cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon chopped fresh dill or chervil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
creamy, buttery mashed potatoes, to serve
Carefully remove the red corals, then neatly slice the scallops into 3 pieces horizontally.
Melt 15 g/½ oz of the butter in a medium pan and sauté them gently with the corals for 1 minute, then set aside. In the same pan, fry the bacon until crisp, then remove and chop finely. Cook the scallions (spring onions) and mushrooms in the fat from the bacon, adding the remaining butter, for 2-3 minutes, then sprinkle in the flour, stirring well until the flour is cooked. Stir in the wine and bubble gently, stirring until the sauce thickens, then add the cream, bacon, parsley, dill and a little lemon juice. Check the seasoning and bring back to the boil. Return the scallops and allow to heat through, 1-2 minutes.
Creamy, buttery mashed potatoes are the perfect partner for this rich ragout.
Dun Aengus stone fort, Aran Islands, County Galway.
BRAISED STUFFED PHEASANTS WITH IRISH WHISKEY SAUCE
SERVES 4-6 (LARGE COCK PHEASANTS WILL SERVE 3 PEOPLE GENEROUSLY, BUT HENS ARE CONSIDERED FINER EATING)
Pheasants are in plentiful supply during the season from October to January and are usually sold prepared and neatly packed at the butcher or supermarket. Braising the birds keeps them moist and tender.
2 pheasants
75 g/3 oz butter
6 celery sticks, roughly chopped
4 carrots, roughly chopped
4 onions, roughly chopped
fresh parsley and thyme sprigs
300 ml/½ pint chicken stock
4 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
a large glass of Irish whiskey
300 ml/½ pint whipping cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE STUFFING
110 g/4 oz hazelnuts
55 g/2 oz butter
1 tablespoon each finely chopped carrot, celery and onion
2 streaky bacon strips, chopped
1 orange
6 tablespoons cooked wild and basmati rice mixture
1 tablespoon Irish whiskey
chestnuts and game chips, to garnish (optional, see Notes)
To make the stuffing, lightly brown the hazelnuts in a heavy pan, rub off any loose skins and chop the nuts finely. In the same pan, melt a knob of butter and sauté the chopped vegetables and bacon. Grate the zest of the orange and mix together with the other ingredients, the rice and remaining butter. Moisten with a tablespoon each of whiskey and orange juice. Season well. When cold, stuff the birds loosely and secure with a cocktail stick. Wrap any surplus stuffing in foil and put in the pot with the birds.
In a heavy casserole that will just fit the two birds, melt 55 g/2 oz of the butter and brown the birds all over. Remove. Put in the chopped vegetables and a few sprigs of parsley and thyme. Lay the birds on top, on their sides, and pour on the stock. Season the birds well. Cover the casserole, sealing it well with foil, if necessary. Cook gently for 20 minutes. Then turn the pheasants and cook for a further 15-20 minutes. Test by inserting a skewer between the leg and the breast. The liquid should be faintly pink; pheasants do not benefit from overcooking. Remove the birds and keep them warm.
Strain off the liquid from the vegetables and remove as much fat as possible. Blend the liquid with the redcurrant jelly and pour into a small saucepan. Add the remaining whiskey, heat for a few moments, and then ignite to burn off the alcohol and concentrate the flavour. Now add the cream, taste for seasoning, and boil hard to reduce by about one-third. Finally, whisk in a little butter. Arrange the birds on a large serving dish, tuck the feathers under the tails, if you have them, and glaze with a little of the sauce. Pheasants are traditionally garnished with chestnuts and game chips, or served on a bed of spinach, finished in butter and garlic.
Notes: to prepare chestnuts, make a cross in the skins with a sharp knife and simmer for 20 minutes; cool and peel. Return to the water and continue cooking until they are tender. Cooked chestnuts can be bought vac-packed or in tins.
Game chips are made by slicing peeled potatoes very thinly into cold water. Remove from the water, dry and fry in hot oil. Drain and sprinkle with salt.
Skellig Michael, Iveragh Peninsula, County Kerry.
LAMB WITH CRAB APPLE JELLY
SERVES 4-6
Crab apples can often be found for the taking in autumn, in woodland areas and along roadsides. They are abundant in Killarney, and their wild and winey flavour gives character to this simple sauce. Ordinary apple jelly can be enhanced by the addition of a little redcurrant jelly or use Rowanberry Jelly.
1-2 racks of lamb (4-6 cutlets each)
3 tablespoons olive oil
a large glass each of red wine and stock
3 large garlic cloves
2-3 fresh rosemary sprigs or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
2 tablespoons dried pink peppercorns (rose peppers)
3 tablespoons crab-apple jelly
lemon juice, to taste
30 g/1 oz butter, chilled and cubed
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh rosemary sprigs, to garnish
Trim the lamb of any excess fat and neatly pare the cutlet bones. Season with black pepper and rub over with some of the olive oil. Place in a deep dish and pour the wine and stock over. Crush the garlic cloves and tuck them, with the rosemary, around the meat. Marinate for at least half an hour, or overnight.
When ready to cook, reheat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7.
Remove the meat from the marinade and blot dry with kitchen paper. In a hot pan, brown the racks briefly in a spoonful of oil. Rub a little more oil over the meat and sprinkle the skin with salt. Roast for 15-16 minutes for pink lamb, and 5 minutes or so longer if you prefer it less pink. Remove the lamb to a dish, cover it with foil and a tea towel and allow it to rest.
Strain the marinade into a saucepan, add a sprig of rosemary and the pink peppercorns (if you can only find the brined sort, rise off the brine and use only 1 tablespoon). Boil rapidly to reduce, then add the crab apple jelly, whisking well to dissolve. Taste, adding a little lemon juice if it’s too sweet. Pour any juices from the roasting tin into the sauce, remove the rosemary and whisk in the butter, a piece at a time.
Slice the lamb into cutlets, 2 or 3 per person, depending on size. Pour a small pool of sauce on each plate and arrange the cutlets on top. Garnish with the rosemary sprigs.
ROAST MICHAELMAS GOOSE, WITH PRUNE, APPLE AND POTATO STUFFING
SERVES 6
The tradition of a goose for dinner on the feast of St Michael (29 September) is as old as that of the Christmas goose, and made good sense: geese born in the spring were turned out to fatten among the stubble after the grain was harvested, making them nice and plump for Michaelmas.
4-5.5 kg/10-12 lb goose
1 onion, sliced
25 g/½ oz butter
350 g/12 oz prunes, soaked, stoned and chopped
450 g/1 lb apples, chopped
450 g/1 lb potatoes, cooked and mashed
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon grated orange rind
1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage or ½ teaspoon dried
1 tablespoon sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
Sautéed Cabbage, to serve
To drain some of the fat and dry the skin in readiness for roasting crisply, prick the goose thoroughly all over with a fork. Pour boiling water over the skin and leave to dry in an airy place while you make the stuffing.
Preheat the oven to 425°F/220°C/Gas Mark 7.
Cook the sliced onion in the butter until soft, then mix with the chopped prunes, apples and mashed potato. Add the caraway seeds, mustard, orange rind and herbs and season well. When ready to cook, pack the stuffing loosely into the cavity and put any surplus into a foil-covered dish to cook separately. Secure the legs in place by passing a skewer through the first joint of one leg through to the other leg, or tie securely in place.
Dry the goose skin with kitchen paper and rub well with the sea salt. Sit the goose, breast-side down, on a rack in a deep roasting tin and cook for 40 minutes, turning the goose breast-side up after 20 minutes. Lower the heat to 300°F/150°C/Gas Mark 2. Allow about 20 minutes per 450 g/1 lb and test by inserting a skewer between the leg and the breast; clear liquid indicates that it is done. There will be a great deal of fat, so it is more manageable to pour it off once or twice during cooking. Reserve the fat for roasting potatoes. When the goose is ready, cover it with foil and a towel to rest for at least 30-40 minutes.
To make the gravy, add a little stock (made with the giblets, etc.) and a glass of wine or 2 tablespoons orange juice to the de-fatted sediment in the roasting tin, scraping it up well. Boil to reduce, then whisk in a few knobs of butter or a little cream.
Serve with the Sautéed Cabbage.
Killarney Lake, County Kerry.
PORK AND APPLE PIE
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8 AS A STARTER
This pie is based on one given by Hannah Glasse in her famous 1758 cookery book, The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy. This book circulated so widely in Ireland it was said that in some homes of the day it was the only book!
2 large onions, peeled and finely chopped
30 g/1 oz butter
900 g/2 lb good sausagemeat or equal quantities of pork pieces and pork belly, finely minced
110 g/4 oz streaky bacon, chopped finely
675 g/1½ lb eating or cooking apples, such as Cox’s or Bramleys, chopped
30 g/1 oz brown sugar
2-3 fresh sage leaves, chopped, or a little dried sage
5-6 juniper berries, lightly crushed
a small glass of white wine or cider
salt, freshly ground black pepper and grated nutmeg
1 egg, beaten, to glaze
FOR THE PASTRY
450 g/1 lb plain flour
225 g/8 oz butter
1 egg
1-2 tablespoons very cold water
salt, pinch
Make the pastry in the usual way, adding an egg as well as water, and leave to rest. Line a greased 23 cm/ 9 inch square cake tin with baking parchment. Using two-thirds of the pastry, roll out to line the tin, using the remainder for the lid. Keep the trimmings for decoration.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.
Sauté the onions in half the butter until soft. Cool and add to the sausagemeat, bacon, apples and sugar. Season well with pepper, a little salt and a good grating of nutmeg. Put in the sage (be sparing if the sage is dried). Spread the meat in the pastry case, pushing the juniper berries down into the mixture. Pour over the wine or cider and dot with the remaining butter. If pork is used, add a little more butter (about 55 g/2 oz). Cover with the pastry lid, dampening and pressing the edges well together, make leaves with the pastry trimmings to decorate and then brush the top with the beaten egg.
Bake for about 1 hour, covering the top with foil if it’s getting too brown. When cold, cut into squares and serve with a green salad, fruity chutney and good bread.
Note: this pie improves in flavour if it can be left in the fridge for a day or two before cutting.
CHICKEN PIE WITH CASHEW NUTS
SERVES 4-6
This chicken pie is ideal comfort food for cold evenings. The cashews can be replaced by toasted whole almonds.
1 onion, chopped
3 carrots
1 bay leaf
900 ml/1½ pints water
2 celery sticks
4 large chicken breasts
2 chicken legs
1 tablespoon oil
75 g/3 oz cashew nuts
8 shallots, peeled
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon or a pinch of dried
2 tablespoons plain flour
2 tablespoons butter
salt, freshly ground black pepper and grated nutmeg
FOR THE TOPPING
675 g/1½ lb potatoes
30 g/1 oz butter
hot milk
Put the onion, 1 carrot and the bay leaf in the water and cook for 40 minutes, to make a stock. Remove the carrot and bay leaf from the stock. Cut the remaining carrots and the celery into thick slices and add, with the chicken, to the stock. Cook until the vegetables are cooked but still crisp, then remove with a slotted spoon. Remove the breasts as soon as they are just cooked, after 12-15 minutes, and continue cooking the legs until they are tender.
Skin and bone the chicken legs and put the meat with the breasts. Cut the meat into neat pieces. Return the trimmings to the stock and boil hard to reduce to about 600 ml/1 pint. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.
In a small pan, heat a teaspoon of oil and toast the nuts for a few moments; remove the nuts and cook the shallots in the same pan until they are nicely browned. Add a ladleful of stock and continue to cook until they are tender. Arrange the nuts, vegetables and the chicken pieces in a pie dish and season well. Add a little chopped fresh tarragon, less if using dried.
Cook the flour in the melted butter in a large saucepan and then gradually add the strained hot stock, stirring well until the sauce thickens. Season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg and pour over the chicken and vegetables in the pie dish.
Boil the potatoes in their skins until tender, then drain, peel and mash vigorously - be generous with the butter - fluff up with a fork and add just enough hot milk to make them creamy. Spread over the chicken and cook in the top of the oven until the sauce is bubbling and the potatoes are golden brown.
BAKED COD WITH MUSHROOMS
SERVES 4-6
1 medium onion
1 leek
55 g/2 oz butter
4-6 cod cutlets or fillets
225 g/8 oz mushrooms, sliced
grated zest of ½ lemon
1 dessertspoon plain flour
300 ml/½ pint hot fish stock or milk
6 anchovy fillets, split in half (optional)
30 g/1 oz breadcrumbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped fresh parsley, to garnish
Preheat the oven to 170°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3.
Chop the onion finely and slice the cleaned leek. Cook them gently in half the butter until soft. Spread in a buttered ovenproof dish and place the seasoned fish on top.
In the same pan, melt the remaining butter and cook the sliced mushrooms and lemon zest for several minutes until the juices have run and the mushrooms are beginning to brown. Add the flour and stir well until the flour is cooked, about 2-3 minutes. Gradually add the stock or milk, stirring well to prevent lumps from forming. Pour the sauce over the fish and leek mixture. If you are using anchovies, arrange them on top of the sauce. Sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top. Bake for 25 minutes. Serve sprinkled with parsley.
Cloghane in winter.
RABBIT WITH ALMONDS
SERVES 4
Rabbit, enjoying a great revival, was immensely popular in the past. Dozens of recipes survive from Irish household recipe books. Almonds, too, were widely used for flavour and texture in a variety of dishes. Today’s tender rabbits are specially bred for the table. Wild rabbits take rather longer to cook and have a gamier flavour.
1.15-1.3 kg/2½-3 lb rabbit, cut into 8-10 pieces
1 tablespoon vinegar
1 tablespoon salt
175 g/6 oz blanched whole almonds
2 tablespoons plain flour
30 g/1 oz butter
1 tablespoon oil
2 onions, sliced
110 g/4 oz streaky bacon, chopped
2 tablespoons Irish whiskey
a fresh thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
a glass of white wine
a glass of stock or water
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
plain boiled rice, to serve
Soak the rabbit pieces for 1 hour in water, with the vinegar and salt. If the rabbit is wild, soak overnight. In a large frying pan, lightly brown the almonds with a teaspoon of oil.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.
Remove the rabbit pieces from the water, rinse well and pat dry. Season the pieces and flour well. Brown the rabbit in the butter and oil in an ovenproof casserole. Add the onions and bacon and continue cooking until softened slightly. Add the whiskey, the herbs, wine, stock or water, lemon juice and zest, and the almonds. Check the seasoning.
Cover tightly and transfer to the oven and cook for about 1 hour. Test with a skewer and add a little more wine or stock if it needs more cooking or seems to be dry.
Serve the rabbit and almonds arranged on a dish of plain boiled rice and pour the pan juices on top.
Wild flower meadow.
RAGOUT OF COD AND CLAMS
SERVES 6
In the past, clams made only very occasional appearances on our western shores, but in recent years they have been cultivated very successfully and have found a natural place in Irish cooking. Basmati rice or new potatoes, buttered and sprinkled with herbs, are good served with this.
2 large onions
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
300 ml/½ pint fish or chicken stock
2 x 400 g/14 oz tins chopped Italian tomatoes
1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander
675 g/1½ lb cod
675 g/1½ lb clams, scrubbed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
basmati rice or new potatoes with butter and herbs, to serve
Slice the onions into fine rings and put them in a heavy, flameproof casserole or saucepan, with the oil and garlic. Sauté gently until they are soft but not brown, then add the balsamic vinegar and the stock. Cover and cook over a moderate heat until the stock has almost evaporated and become slightly syrupy, but watch that it doesn’t burn. This takes about 10-15 minutes.
Now add the tomatoes and coriander and cook for a further 10 minutes to reduce slightly. Taste for seasoning. Cut the cod in large cubes and add, with the clams, still in their shells, to the sauce. Cover and cook gently for 6-7 minutes until the cod is cooked and the clams have opened. Discard any clams that are still closed. Add a few grinds of black pepper and serve with rice or buttered potatoes.
SPICED BEEF
SERVES 8-10
Spiced beef is one of the seasonal pleasures of Christmas. Decorated with holly and embalmed in spice, it can be seen in every butcher’s shop during the Christmas season. To make it at home, you must start a week or ten days before it is required.
4½ lb/2kg beef brisket
FOR THE PICKLE
225 g/8 oz salt
1 tablespoon saltpetre (see Notes)
110 g/4 oz brown sugar
300 ml/½ pint Guinness
FOR THE SPICE MIX
2 teaspoons each ground black pepper, grated nutmeg, fresh thyme, ground mace
1 teaspoon ground clove
3 teaspoons allspice
2 bay leaves, crushed
1 onion, finely chopped
In a good sized saucepan put the salt, saltpetre, brown sugar and Guinness. Add 1.5 litres cold water, then bring slowly to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to cool. Cover the meat with the cold brine and transfer to the fridge for 7 days (or 10 days if you are making Corned Beef), turning the meat in the pickle every day.
Remove the meat from the pickle, drain and dry. (Discard the pickle.) Mix the spices and onions together and rub thoroughly into the meat. Reserve the surplus spices. Wrap the meat in cling film and return to the fridge for a further 3-4 days, turning and rubbing in more spice each day. Top up the spices as necessary.
Finally, return the meat to a clean saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil slowly and simmer gently for 3-3½ hours, checking with a skewer after 2¾ hours. Cool in the liquid before drying and wrapping in foil. Keep in the fridge for a week to 10 days. Any remaining spice can be rubbed into the meat before wrapping in foil.
This sounds like a lot of work, but in fact it doesn’t really take a lot of time once the ingredients are assembled. Remembering to attend to it each day is the difficult part.
Serve the beef cold, cut in fine slices on a bed of rocket with Dijon mustard, a good fruity chutney or cranberry sauce on the side. It can also be eaten hot, rather like ham.
Notes: the final cooking can be done in the oven if preferred. Bring to the boil as above, then transfer to the oven at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4, checking as above.
Saltpetre is not essential, rather it is used to preserve the colour of the meat. It is available on the internet or you can use Prague Powder Number 1 (also known as ‘pink salts’) which can be bought from your butcher.
VENISON PASTIES
SERVES 6
These small pasties are a manageable version of the great decorated venison pies of the past. These were ‘side board’ dishes which allowed the pastry cooks to show off their art. Widely available during the winter, both farmed and wild, venison is a lean meat and benefits from being marinated before cooking for as long as time allows.
900 g/2 lb breast of venison, or pieces
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 teaspoon ground mace
6-7 juniper berries, slightly crushed
2 large onions
1 carrot
1 celery stick
110 g/4 oz piece of fat bacon
900 g/2 lb puff pastry
1 egg, beaten
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cut the venison into cubes and put them in an ovenproof dish, with the oil, vinegar, crushed garlic, mace and juniper berries. Leave overnight, if possible.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas Mark 3. Chop the vegetables finely. Cut the bacon into small cubes and fry until crisp. Add the bacon and vegetables to the meat and marinade, cover and bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the meat is just tender, but check once or twice because venison doesn’t benefit from overcooking. Remove and cool.
Turn the oven up to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.
Roll out the pastry out to make 6 pieces15 x 20 cm/6 x 8 inches, patching together if necessary. Pour off and keep any excess gravy from the meat filling. Divide the filling among the pastry pieces, putting it in the centre and leaving a gap of 5 cm/2 inches on either side and 2.5 cm/1 inch at the top and bottom. Dampen the edges with beaten egg and draw the sides together, pinching well. Pinch together the tops and bottoms securely. Line a baking tray with baking parchment and lay the pasties on it, seam-side down, and make a hole in the top. Brush over with beaten egg, decorate as lavishly as the pastry trimmings will allow.
Bake for about 40-45 minutes until the pastry is golden brown. The remaining gravy can be handed round separately, with a dash of lemon juice added. Redcurrant or Rowanberry Jelly is very good with venison.
BEEF AND MUSHROOM PIE WITH GUINNESS
SERVES 6
Leg or shin of beef is a great choice for slow cooking, for, although it takes a long time to cook initially, it remains tender and juicy.
900 g/2 lb leg or shin of beef, trimmed and cubed
2 tablespoons plain flour
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 bay leaf
1 fresh thyme spring
1 fresh parsley or sage sprig
2 large onions, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 celery stick, chopped
4 tinned anchovies, drained
450 ml/¾ pint Guinness
225 g/8 oz mushrooms
225 g/8 oz puff pastry
1 egg, beaten
salt and freshly ground black pepper
mashed or baby new potatoes, or crusty bread and salad, to serve
Toss the beef in the flour and brown in the oil in a large saucepan. Tie the bay leaf, thyme and parsley to make a bouquet garni. Add the onions to the pan and toss until they begin to soften then add the carrot, celery, the bouquet garni and seasoning. Mash the anchovies and stir in. Pour the Guinness over the top, stir well, cover and cook very gently until the meat is almost tender, about 1½ hours. (This can be done in the oven if preferred, at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.) Add the mushrooms and continue cooking for another 25 minutes. Allow the filling to cool.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas Mark 5.
Transfer the contents of the saucepan to a deep pie dish and check the seasoning. Roll the pastry out on a floured board into a large circle about 4 cm/1½ inches larger than the pie dish. Cut the surplus off in a long strip and press on to the dampened edge of the dish. Lay the remaining pastry circle over the pie, pressing on to the strip to attach it well and crimping the edges decoratively. Make a vent in the centre and decorate the pie with leaves or flowers made from the pastry trimmings. Brush with the beaten egg and bake for 45-50 minutes until the pastry is risen and golden.
Eat this with creamy mashed potatoes or baby new potatoes tossed in butter and parsley or fresh crusty bread and a green salad.
BREAST OF CHICKEN WITH WALNUT AND APPLE
SERVES 4
‘On rainy days alone I dine,
Upon a chick, and pint of wine.
On rainy days I dine alone,
And pick my chicken to the bone.’
Jonathan Swift
55 g/2 oz butter
½ large Bramley cooking apple, peeled and chopped
4 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped, or a tiny pinch of dried sage
75 g/3 oz walnuts, chopped
4 large chicken breasts
2 tablespoons plain flour
1 egg, beaten
75 g/3 oz breadcrumbs
1 tablespoon oil
150 ml/¼ pint double cream
½ teaspoon paprika
salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a small pan, melt 15 g/½ oz of the butter and add the apple, sage and walnuts. Cook gently until the apple is just beginning to soften and the walnuts beginning to colour. Set aside to cool and season well.
Make a long, deep incision in the sides of the chicken breasts, cutting lengthways to make a deep pocket. Divide the stuffing among the chicken breasts, pushing it well into the pockets. Season and flour the chicken and then dip the chicken in egg and roll in breadcrumbs. Secure with cocktail sticks. (If the chicken is being prepared in advance, chill the stuffing before inserting it.)
In a large pan, melt 30 g/1 oz of the butter with the oil and fry the chicken gently, turning once or twice, until cooked and golden, but still moist, about 5-7 minutes on each side, depending on thickness. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Wipe any burnt crumbs from the pan with kitchen paper and pour in the cream. Add any remaining stuffing or crumbs, season well with salt, pepper and paprika and bubble up for a few moments, scraping up the sediment; whisk in the remaining butter and pour over the chicken.
Cliffs of Moher, County Clare.
STUFFED PORK CHOPS WITH POTATO-APPLE FRITTERS
SERVES 4
4 loin chops, 2.5 cm/1 inch thick
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
chopped fresh parsley
55 g/2 oz brown breadcrumbs
finely chopped fresh thyme
40 g/1½ oz butter
1 tablespoon grated fresh root ginger
1 eating apple, Cox’s pippin or similar, peeled and finely chopped
1 egg, beaten
1 tablespoon oil
150 ml/¼ pint cider, white wine or chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE FRITTERS
225 g/8 oz raw potato, grated
110 g/4 oz apple, grated
55 g/2 oz plain flour
2 eggs
2 tablespoons whipping cream
oil and butter, for frying
salt
Make cuts in the fat along the edge of the chops at 1 cm/½ inch intervals (this helps the fat to cook and prevents the chops from curling up when heated). Make a horizontal incision in the side of each chop, to form a pocket. Mix the vinegar, lemon juice and mustard together and toss the meat well in this mixture. Leave to marinate while you make the stuffing, or longer, if time allows.
Put the parsley in a bowl with the lemon zest, breadcrumbs and thyme. Melt 15 g/½ oz of the butter in a large pan and cook the ginger for a few moments, then add the apple and cook until soft. Mix in the breadcrumbs, season well and bind with the beaten egg. Allow to cool.
Spoon the stuffing into the pockets in the chops and secure with cocktail sticks or poultry pins. Add half the remaining butter and the oil to the pan, turn up the heat and brown the chops well on either side. Add the cider, wine or stock and the remaining marinade. Cover the pan, lower the heat and cook very gently until the chops are done - 6-8 minutes, turning once or twice. Remove the chops to a serving dish and keep warm.
Add the remaining butter to the pan, scrape up the residue, bubble for a few moments to reduce, check and adjust the seasoning, and pour over the chops. Keep the chops warm while you make the fritters.
Mix the potato and apples together with the flour. Bind with the eggs and cream and mix to a batter consistency. Fry, a tablespoon at a time, in hot oil and butter for 3-5 minutes until crisp and golden brown; drain on kitchen paper and sprinkle with salt before serving with the chops.
ROAST TURKEY WITH STUFFING
SERVES 8-10
This tturkey has two stuffings and is semi-braised, to retain moisture.
5.5 kg/1 lb turkey
55 g/2 oz butter
2 large onions, halved
8 cloves
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 celery sticks, coarsely chopped
225 g/8 oz bacon, cut into strips
300 ml/½ pint cider or white wine
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE PRUNE AND CHICKEN LIVER STUFFING
1 large onion, finely chopped
55 g/2 oz butter
225 g/8 oz chicken livers, cleaned and chopped
350 g/12 oz fresh breadcrumbs
1 celery stick, finely chopped
1 carrot, grated
225 g/8 oz prunes, stoned and chopped
a small glass of vermouth or sherry
2 teaspoons dried mixed herbs
1 teaspoon ground mace
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE APPLE AND WALNUT STUFFING
175 g/6 oz walnuts, chopped
2 cooking apples, peeled and chopped
55 g/2 oz butter, softened
1 tablespoon grated fresh root ginger
55 g/2 oz fresh breadcrumbs
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 230°C/450°F/Gas Mark 8.
To make the prune stuffing, cook the onion in half the butter, then add the livers and cook until slightly pink. Add to the breadcrumbs. In the remaining butter, cook the celery, carrot and prunes for a few minutes, then add the vermouth or sherry, herbs, mace and seasoning. Bubble up well. Mix into the breadcrumbs and cool.
To make the apple stuffing, mix all the ingredients together and season well. Stuff the turkey’s body cavity loosely with the prune stuffing. Insert slices of butter under the breast skin. Skewer or tie the legs together. Stuff the crop with the apple stuffing and secure with a skewer. Season the turkey thoroughly and rub the breast well with butter. Put the halved onions, stuck with the cloves, in a deep roasting pan with the vegetables, bacon and cider. Lay the turkey on its side on top.
Put the turkey in the oven and immediately lower the heat to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. After 45 minutes, turn the turkey on to the other side and baste well. After a further 45 minutes, turn the turkey breast-side up and continue cooking for a further 45 minutes to an hour, basting well and covering the breast with foil if it is browning too fast. Test by inserting a skewer between the thigh and the breast; the juices should be clear. Remove the turkey to a dish and cover with foil and a towel; leave the meat to relax to keep it juicy and allow the juices to be reabsorbed. It will stay warm for 45 minutes to 1 hour.
To make the gravy, strain off the stock from the roasting tin and leave it to stand so the fat rises to the top. Remove the fat and set it aside. Mix 1 tablespoon of flour with 1 tablespoon of the fat in a saucepan, stir well, cooking for 2 minutes, then blend in the stock. Boil hard to thicken slightly and reduce. Pour into a sauceboat and serve very hot. Crisp bacon rolls and mini sausages can be used to garnish the dish and cranberry or Rowanberry Jelly can be handed round separately.
A peaceful night in County Sligo.