BEEF, LAMB & MORE - Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin

Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)

BEEF, LAMB & MORE

Hunting Cabin Steak

Total 40 min plus overnight marinating Serves 4

2 cups dry red wine

2 Tbsp. sugar

6 whole cloves

6 juniper berries, crushed

Two 3-inch cinnamon sticks

1 tsp. finely grated orange zest

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1/2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Two 1-lb. bone-in rib eye steaks (about 1 inch thick)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1/2 lb. chanterelle mushrooms

Chopped parsley and flaky sea salt, for garnish

1. In a medium saucepan, combine the wine and sugar and bring to a simmer. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the cloves, juniper berries, cinnamon sticks, orange zest, lemon zest and nutmeg. Let cool completely.

2. In a resealable plastic bag or shallow baking dish, combine the steaks with the cooled marinade and refrigerate overnight.

3. Light a grill. Remove the steaks from the marinade and pat dry; discard the marinade. Rub the steaks with 2 tablespoons of the oil; season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat, turning once, until nicely charred and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125° for medium-rare, 10 to 12 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes on a platter.

4. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the chanterelles and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice. Spoon the mushrooms over the steaks, garnish with parsley and sea salt and serve. —Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo

WINE Fragrant, concentrated Umbrian red: 2008 Paolo Bea Rosso de Véo Sagrantino.

Tomahawk Steaks with Charred Tomato Charmoula

Active 50 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 6

Tomahawk steaks are so-called because of their resemblance to the Native American axe. California chef Duskie Estes serves the impressive on-the-bone steaks with a North African-inspired spiced-tomato topping seasoned with fresh herbs, cumin, coriander and lemon.

Two 2 1/2-lb. tomahawk rib eye steaks

Kosher salt and pepper

6 plum tomatoes, cored and halved lengthwise

Extra-virgin olive oil

11/2 tsp. each cumin and coriander seeds

1/2 cup each minced parsley and cilantro

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

11/2 tsp. sweet paprika

1/8 tsp. cayenne

1. Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, light a grill. Brush the tomatoes with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a work surface to cool, then cut into 1/2-inch dice and transfer to a bowl.

3. In a small skillet, toast the cumin and coriander seeds over moderately high heat, tossing, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a mortar or spice grinder and let cool, then grind into a powder. Add the spices and 1/2 cup of olive oil to the tomatoes along with the parsley, cilantro, lemon zest, lemon juice, paprika and cayenne. Season the charmoula with salt and pepper.

4. Grill the steaks over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 130°, about 35 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest for 10 minutes.

5. Carve the steaks off the bone, then thickly slice the meat against the grain. Transfer to a platter, spoon the charmoula on top and serve. —Duskie Estes

WINE Lively, cherry-scented Sonoma Pinot Noir: 2013 Senses.

Tri-Tip Steak with Grilled Scallion, Ginger and Cilantro Relish

Total 50 min; Serves 4

F&W’s Kay Chun tranforms an inexpensive but flavorful steak with a bold relish of spicy charred scallions and just-grated ginger.

One 11/2-lb. tri-tip steak

18 large scallions, 2 thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for brushing

Kosher salt and pepper

1 cup chopped cilantro

2 red Thai chiles, minced

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

2 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger, plus more for garnish

1. Light a grill. On a baking sheet, rub the steak and 16 whole scallions with the 2 tablespoons of oil; season with salt and pepper.

2. Oil the grill grate. Grill the steak for 20 to 25 minutes, turning occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125° for medium-rare. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, grill the whole scallions over moderate heat, turning, until lightly charred and tender, about 3 minutes. Transfer 8 of the scallions to a platter. Chop the rest and transfer to a bowl; let cool. Add the sliced raw scallions, cilantro, chiles, lime juice and 2 tablespoons of ginger; mix well.

4. Thinly slice the steak across the grain and arrange on the platter. Spoon the scallion relish on the steak and garnish with freshly grated ginger. —Kay Chun

WINE Bold Chilean Syrah: 2013 Kingston Family Lucero.

Wok-Seared Steak Mah-Jongg with Shishito Peppers

imag Total 35 min; Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup plus 1 tsp. canola oil

1 lb. shishito peppers, stemmed

Kosher salt and pepper

1 lb. filet mignon, New York strip or rib eye steak, cut into 1-inch pieces

1 Tbsp. potato starch or cornstarch

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 small shallot, minced

2 Tbsp. rice wine, vermouth or dry white wine

2 Tbsp. kecap manis (see Note) or 1 Tbsp. soy sauce mixed with 1 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds

1/2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

Steamed rice, for serving

1. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil. Add half of the shishito peppers and season with salt and pepper. Stir-fry over moderately high heat until crisp-tender and charred in spots, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Repeat with 1 tablespoon of the oil, the remaining shishitos and more salt and pepper.

2. In a medium bowl, season the steak with salt and pepper and toss with 1 teaspoon of the oil. Sprinkle with the potato starch and toss to coat. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in the skillet, add the steak and stir-fry over moderately high heat until browned, 3 minutes. Add the steak to the shishitos.

3. Add the garlic and shallot to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the rice wine, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. Add the kecap manis, steak and shishito peppers and stir-fry until nicely glazed, about 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice, sesame seeds and sesame oil and season with salt and pepper. Serve with steamed rice. —George Chen

NOTE Kecap manis is an Indonesian soy sauce that’s slightly thick and sweet. Look for it at Asian markets or on amazon.com.

WINE Juicy, fruit-forward red: 2013 Tasca d’Almerita Lamùri Nero d’Avola.

Skirt Steak Quinoa Bowls with Ginger-Sesame Dressing

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

11/4 cups red or white quinoa, rinsed and drained

1 head of Bibb lettuce, roughly torn

2 cups bean sprouts

1/4 cup soy sauce

2 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger

1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

3 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil

1 lb. skirt steak, sliced 1/4 inch thick

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

Kosher salt and pepper

1. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook the quinoa until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and return the quinoa to the pan. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes; fluff with a fork.

2. Divide the quinoa, lettuce and bean sprouts among 4 bowls. In a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce, ginger, vinegar and 2 tablespoons of the sesame oil.

3. In a large skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of sesame oil. Add the steak and garlic and cook over high heat, stirring, until the steak is browned, about 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon the steak over the quinoa and serve with the ginger-sesame dressing. —Kay Chun

WINE Spiced, medium-bodied Spanish red: 2006 CVNE Viña Real Gran Reserva.

Grilled Rib Eye Steaks with Apple-Radish Vinaigrette

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling and brushing

Two 1-inch-thick boneless rib eye steaks (11/2 lbs. total), at room temperature

Kosher salt and pepper

3 Tbsp. Champagne vinegar

1/4 cup minced radish

1/4 cup minced crisp, sweet apple, such as Honeycrisp

1. Light a grill and oil the grate. Brush the steaks all over with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until medium-rare, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix the 1/3 cup of olive oil with the vinegar, radish and apple. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper. Carve the steaks against the grain and serve with the vinaigrette. —Justin Chapple

WINE Lively, fruity Spanish red: 2014 Lurra Garnacha.

Sirloin Strips with Arugula and Tomatoes

Active 25 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 6

2 lbs. beef eye of round in 1 piece, frozen for 30 minutes

Kosher salt

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

4 oz. arugula (4 cups)

Shaved Grana Padano cheese, for garnish

1. Using a very sharp knife, thinly slice the beef 1/8 inch thick, then cut into 3/4-inch-wide strips. In a medium bowl, toss the meat with 1/2 teaspoon of salt to coat. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the garlic; cook over moderate heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften and start to split open, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Wipe out the skillet.

3. In the same skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the beef strips and cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until browned in spots, about 1 minute. Stir in the vinegar and cook until no trace of pink remains, about 2 minutes longer. Transfer the meat and any juices to shallow bowls and top with the tomatoes and arugula. Garnish with cheese shavings and serve. —Katie Parla

WINE Dark-fruited southern Italian red: 2012 Terredora Di Paolo Aglianico.

Beet-Braised Short Ribs

Active 1 hr; Total 4 hr; Serves 8

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Eight 10- to 12-oz. English-cut beef short ribs

Kosher salt and pepper

2 large red beets, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 large yellow onion, chopped

4 large garlic cloves, chopped

4 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

21/2 cups dry red wine

One 16-oz. can diced San Marzano tomatoes

1/4 cup ice wine vinegar or white wine vinegar

1 Tbsp. pickling spices

1 red onion, thinly sliced

3 lbs. parsnips, peeled and chopped into 1-inch pieces

6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

1 cup half-and-half

1 cup crème fraîche

2 Tbsp. drained prepared horseradish

1. Preheat the oven to 325°. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper. Cook half of the ribs over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes; transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining short ribs. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the casserole.

2. Add the beets, yellow onion, garlic, thyme and bay leaves to the casserole. Season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the casserole. Return the ribs to the pot, add the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Cover and braise in the oven for about 3 hours, until the ribs are very tender. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaves and skim off as much fat as possible from the sauce.

3. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, bring the ice wine vinegar and pickling spices to a boil over high heat; add the red onion. Remove from the heat and let stand, tossing occasionally, until tender, about 30 minutes.

4. In a large pot, cover the parsnips with 2 inches of cold water, season with salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, 15 to 20 minutes; drain and transfer to a food processor. Add the butter and pulse until coarsely pureed. With the machine on, drizzle in the half-and-half; puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

5. In a small bowl, whisk the crème fraîche with the horseradish and season with salt and pepper. To serve, spoon the parsnip puree into shallow bowls. Top with the short ribs, beets, horseradish cream and pickled onion and serve. —Erin French

WINE Bold Washington state red blend: 2011 Hedges CMS.

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FLANK STEAKS WITH SHALLOT-RED WINE SAUCE

Flank Steaks with Shallot-Red Wine Sauce

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

Two 12-oz. flank steaks, about 3/4 inch thick

Kosher salt and pepper

5 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

4 large shallots, thinly sliced

3/4 cup dry red wine

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

1 tsp. sugar

1. Season the steaks generously with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the steaks and cook over high heat, turning once, until medium-rare, 6 minutes total. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the olive oil. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the red wine, vinegar and sugar and simmer until reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

3. Slice the steaks across the grain and serve with the sauce. —Mimi Thorisson

WINE Bright and lively Beaujolais: 2013 Georges Descombes Brouilly.

Vindaloo Flank Steak

Active 25 min; Total 2 hr 45 min; Serves 4

In India, fiery vindaloo is a type of curry. At Boti Walla in Atlanta, chef Meherwan Irani turns vindaloo spices into a thick paste to marinate steak.

8 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and wiped clean

1 tsp. cumin seeds

1 tsp. black peppercorns

3/4 cup distilled white vinegar

One 3-inch piece of fresh ginger (2 oz.), peeled and coarsely chopped

6 garlic cloves

1 small cinnamon stick

2 cloves

Kosher salt and pepper

One 11/2-lb. flank steak

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

Warm paratha or naan, yogurt and lime wedges, for serving

1. In a saucepan, toast the chiles, cumin seeds and peppercorns over moderate heat, turning the chiles, until pliable and the cumin is fragrant, 2 minutes. Add 1/4 cup of water and the vinegar, ginger, garlic, cinnamon stick, cloves and 1 teaspoon of salt and bring just to a boil. Let stand off the heat until the chiles are soft, about 30 minutes. Discard the cinnamon stick.

2. Transfer the chile mixture to a blender and puree to a smooth paste. In a baking dish, spread the paste all over the steak and refrigerate for 1 to 6 hours. Let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes before grilling.

3. Light a grill and brush with oil. Scrape some of the marinade off the steak, then season the meat with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning, until lightly charred and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 125°, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer the steak to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice against the grain and serve with warm paratha, yogurt and lime wedges. —Meherwan Irani

WINE Spicy, berry-rich Spanish red: 2014 Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat.

Kalbi Ribs and Grilled Corn with Kalbi Butter

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 6

Chef Stephanie Izard’s kalbi (Korean grilled beef short ribs) are a summer mainstay at Girl & the Goat in Chicago. Izard uses a zippy mix of olive oil, vinegar, fish sauce and chile paste to season both the ribs and crisp, charred grilled corn.

3/4 cup malt vinegar

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 Tbsp. sambal oelek

2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

3 garlic cloves

4 lbs. flanken-style beef short ribs (sliced 1/3 inch thick across the bones)

1 stick unsalted butter, softened

4 ears of corn, shucked and cut crosswise into thirds

Kosher salt

Charred Okra Relish (p. 362), for serving

1. In a food processor, puree the vinegar with the olive oil, sambal, fish sauce and garlic. Transfer 1/2 cup of the kalbi marinade to a bowl. On a large baking sheet, brush the ribs with the remaining marinade and let stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

2. Meanwhile, in the processor, pulse the butter until smooth. With the machine on, gradually add the reserved 1/2 cup of kalbi marinade. Scrape the kalbi butter into the bowl.

3. Light a grill. Brush the corn with kalbi butter and grill over moderately high heat, turning and brushing with more butter, until lightly charred, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a large platter.

4. Season the ribs lightly with salt and grill over high heat, turning once, until nearly cooked through and lightly charred, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to the platter and serve with the okra relish. —Stephanie Izard

BEER Dark, malty brown ale: Dark Horse Boffo Brown.

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Food52 test kitchen manager Allison Bruns Buford prepares smoked porter-braised short ribs. “They’re great for a party because they can be made ahead,” she says.

Smoked Porter-Braised Beef Short Ribs

Active 1 hr 15 min; Total 5 hr; Serves 8

Ten 8-oz. English-cut beef short ribs, patted dry

Kosher salt and pepper

2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

4 Braeburn apples, cored and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

4 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

1 fennel bulb—halved, cored and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves, chopped

11/2 Tbsp. caraway seeds

3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

1 quart chicken stock or low-sodium broth

Two 12-oz. bottles smoked porter

1 cup brewed coffee

2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

6 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 shallots, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. packed light brown sugar

Chopped fresh parsley and Polenta Facile (p. 251), for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 325°. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add half of the ribs and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Transfer the ribs to a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining oil and ribs.

2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the casserole. Add the apples, leeks, fennel, garlic, caraway and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and just starting to brown, about 12 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute, then add the stock, beer, coffee, mustard, thyme and bay leaves and bring to a boil. Add the short ribs, cover and braise in the oven for about 2 hours and 30 minutes, until very tender. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

3. Using a slotted spoon, trans fer the short ribs to a platter and tent with foil. Strain the braising liquid through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl, pressing on the solids; discard the solids. Skim the fat off the braising liquid.

4. Wipe out the casserole and melt the but ter in it. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened and browned, about 5 minutes. Add the sugar and cook until melted. Add the strained braising liquid and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately high heat until reduced by one-third, about 7 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Add the ribs to the sauce and simmer over moderate heat until heated through, about 3 minutes. Top with chopped parsley and serve with the polenta. — Sara Grimes

MAKE AHEAD The short ribs can be covered and refrigerated in the sauce for 3 days. Reheat gently before serving.

WINE Robust California Cabernet Sauvignon: 2012 Foxglove from Paso Robles.

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SWEET-AND-SPICY GRILLED BEEF SHORT RIBS

Sweet-and-Spicy Grilled Beef Short Ribs

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4

1/4 cup packed light brown sugar

11/2 Tbsp. kosher salt

1 Tbsp. paprika

1 Tbsp. chili powder

1 tsp. each of garlic salt, dried oregano and black pepper

33/4 lbs. flanken-style beef short ribs, sliced 1/3 inch thick

Canola oil, for oiling the grate

Lemon wedges and coleslaw, for serving

1. In a medium bowl, mix the sugar, kosher salt, paprika, chili powder, garlic salt, oregano and pepper. Rub the mixture all over the short ribs and let stand for 20 minutes.

2. Light a grill and oil the grate. Grill the ribs over high heat, turning once, until nicely charred and nearly cooked through, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a platter and serve with lemon wedges and coleslaw. —Justin Chapple

MAKE AHEAD The spice rub can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

WINE Dark-berried, full-bodied Argentinean Malbec: 2013 Altos Las Hormigas.

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GRILLED SKIRT STEAK WITH SHISHITOS AND CHARRED LEMON

Grilled Skirt Steak with Shishitos and Charred Lemon

Total 50 min plus overnight marinating Serves 4

STEAK

1/4 cup each rosemary and thyme leaves

1/4 cup minced shallot

8 garlic cloves

6 whole peppercorns

1 cup grapeseed oil

11/2 lbs. skirt steak, cut into 2 equal pieces

Kosher salt and pepper

SALAD

4 oz. shishito peppers

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1 lemon, halved

4 cups frisée (21/2 oz.), coarsely torn

4 cups watercress (2 oz.), stemmed and coarsely torn

1/4 cup chopped mint

2 celery ribs, thinly sliced on the diagonal, plus 1/2 cup celery leaves

2 oz. Stilton or other blue cheese, crumbled

1. Prepare the steak In a blender, combine the herbs, shallot, garlic, peppercorns and oil; puree until smooth. Put the steak in a large resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over the steak, then seal the bag and turn to coat the meat. Refrigerate overnight.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Pat the steak dry and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat until medium-rare, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the steak to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Leave the grill on.

3. Make the salad In a medium bowl, toss the shishitos with 1 tablespoon of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the peppers until lightly charred all over, about 2 minutes. Grill the lemon halves cut side down until lightly charred, 5 minutes.

4. In a serving bowl, toss the grilled shishitos with the frisée, watercress, mint, celery and leaves and the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Squeeze 1 tablespoon of juice from a grilled lemon over the salad, season with salt and pepper and toss. Top with the cheese.

5. Thinly slice the steak across the grain. Serve with the salad and grilled lemon halves for squeezing over the steak. —Dave Beran

WINE Peppery Malbec from Argentina: 2013 La Posta Paulucci.

Spiced Short Rib Tagine

Active 1 hr 10 min; Total 4 hr; Serves 6

SHORT RIBS

1/2 cup sliced almonds

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

4 lbs. English-cut bone-in short ribs (3-inch pieces)

Kosher salt and pepper

2 carrots, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 preserved lemon (see Note), pulp discarded and peel minced

1 orange, quartered

1 unpeeled head of garlic, halved crosswise

3 thyme sprigs

2 rosemary sprigs

3 bay leaves

1/4 cup diced California dried apricots

1/4 cup diced dried figs

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger

1 Tbsp. ras el hanout (see Note)

1 Tbsp. sweet paprika

11/2 cups unsweetened pomegranate juice

2 quarts chicken stock

ACCOMPANIMENTS

11/2 cups instant couscous

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

1 tsp. ras el hanout

6 small radishes, halved

6 baby turnips, quartered

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. honey

1. Make the short ribs Preheat the oven to 350°. Toast the nuts in a pie plate until golden, 10 minutes. Leave the oven on.

2. In an enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Season the short ribs with salt and pepper. Working in 2 batches, brown the meat over moderately high heat, turning, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.

3. Add the carrots, onion, preserved lemon, orange, garlic, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, apricots and figs to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the flour, tomato paste, ginger, ras el hanout and paprika and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the ribs, pomegranate juice and stock and bring to a boil. Cover and braise in the oven until the ribs are very tender, about 2 hours.

4. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the ribs to a plate; discard the bones. Strain the sauce, discarding the solids. Wipe out the casserole and pour in the sauce. Return the ribs to the casserole and simmer until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. Skim off any fat and keep warm.

5. Make the accompaniments In a heatproof bowl, stir the couscous with 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1 teaspoon of salt. In a small saucepan, bring 13/4 cups of water to a boil with the ras el hanout. Stir the water into the couscous, cover with plastic wrap and let stand for 5 minutes. Fluff the couscous with a fork and keep warm.

6. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the radishes and turnips and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and honey and season with salt and pepper.

7. Spoon the couscous onto plates. Top with the short ribs and garnish with the almonds. Spoon the radishes and turnips alongside the meat and serve the sauce on the side. —Lior Lev Sercarz

NOTE Preserved lemons and the North African spice mix ras el hanout are available at specialty food stores and from kalustyans.com.

WINE Bright, cherry-scented, medium-bodied California Grenache: 2013 Birichino Besson Vineyard.

Strip Loin Steaks with Garlic-Sake Sauce

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4 to 6

Los Angeles chef Kuniko Yagi drizzles these seared steaks with an intense, garlicky pan sauce sweetened with mirin and bits of carrot.

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Four 12-oz. strip loin steaks

Kosher salt and pepper

2 Tbsp. finely grated garlic

1/4 cup finely grated onion

1/4 cup finely grated carrot

3 Tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce

3 Tbsp. sake

3 Tbsp. mirin

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil. Season the steaks with salt and pepper. Cook 2 of the steaks over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned on both sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining 2 steaks. Return all 4 to the skillet and roast in the oven for about 8 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a steak registers 125° for medium-rare. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board; let rest for 10 minutes.

2. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the remaining ingredients and cook, stirring, until the sauce is slightly reduced and thickened, about 2 minutes. Thinly slice the steaks against the grain, top with the sauce and serve. —Kuniko Yagi

SERVE WITH Steamed white rice.

WINE Bright, earthy Portuguese red: 2011 Prazo de Roriz.

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STRIP STEAK FRITES WITH BÉARNAISE BUTTER

Strip Steak Frites with Béarnaise Butter

Total 1 hr 15 min plus overnight soaking Serves 4

This brilliant take on steak frites is a specialty of New York City chef Andrew Carmellini. He tops seared strip steaks with a butter infused with tarragon, shallots and vinegar—key ingredients in béarnaise sauce—and serves them with tangy fries made with vinegar-brined potatoes.

FRITES

4 baking potatoes, peeled

1/4 cup fine sea salt

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar

Canola oil, for frying

BéARNAISE BUTTER

1/4 cup minced shallots

1/4 cup dry white wine

11/2 Tbsp. tarragon vinegar

2 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/4 cup minced tarragon

1 Tbsp. minced parsley

1 Tbsp. minced chervil (optional)

Kosher salt and pepper

STEAK

Four 8-oz. dry-aged New York strip steaks, cut 3/4 inch thick, at room temperature

Kosher salt and pepper

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1. Make the frites Put the peeled potatoes in a bowl of cold water. Slice them lengthwise 1/4 inch thick, then cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick fries. Rinse in cold water until the water runs clear. Refrigerate overnight in cold water.

2. In a large pot, bring 1 gallon of water to a boil. Stir in the salt and vinegar. Drain the potatoes and add them to the boiling water. Return to a gentle boil and cook for 3 minutes. Drain the potatoes well, then spread them in a single layer on paper towels. Pat thoroughly dry and let cool.

3. Line 2 baking sheets with paper towels. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 2 inches of oil to 365°. Working in batches, fry the potatoes for 1 minute, stirring gently so they don’t stick together. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fries to the paper towels to cool.

4. Make the béarnaise butter In a medium saucepan, combine the shallots, wine and vinegar and cook over moderate heat until all of the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Scrape the shallots into a medium bowl. Add the butter and beat with a hand mixer until creamy. Fold in the herbs and season with salt and pepper.

5. Make the steaks Season the steaks with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil. Cook 2 of the steaks over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned and medium-rare, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer to plates. Repeat with the remaining 2 steaks. Let rest for 5 minutes.

6. Meanwhile, heat the oil in the casserole to 400°. In 2 batches, fry the potatoes, stirring occasionally, until golden and crisp, about 2 minutes. Drain briefly on paper towels. Season with salt. Top the steaks with some of the béarnaise butter and serve immediately with the fries and the remaining béarnaise butter. —Andrew Carmellini

MAKE AHEAD The béarnaise butter can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for 1 month.

WINE Cassis-scented, full-bodied Bordeaux: 2011 Chateau Fonplegade St-Emilion.

imag

BACON-AND-KIMCHI BURGERS

Bacon-and-Kimchi Burgers

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

Vermont chef Wesley Genovart makes his over-the-top, Shake Shack-inspired burger with two thin stacked patties, thick-cut bacon, cabbage kimchi and a spicy homemade sauce.

1/4 cup sambal oelek (Indonesian chile sauce)

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup ketchup

4 slices of thick-cut bacon

11/4 lbs. ground beef chuck

Kosher salt

4 slices of American cheese

4 potato buns, toasted

1 cup chopped drained kimchi (6 oz.)

1. In a small bowl, combine the sambal with the mayonnaise and ketchup and mix well.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Grill the bacon over moderate heat, turning, until golden and crisp, about 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

3. Form the beef into eight 1/4-inch-thick burgers and season with salt. Grill over high heat, turning, until browned, 1 minute per side. Make 4 stacks of 2 burgers each on the grill and spoon 1 tablespoon of the sambal mayo over each stack. Top with the cheese, cover and grill over high heat just until the cheese is melted, about 1 minute.

4. Spread the remaining sambal mayo on the bottom buns. Top with the burgers, bacon and kimchi, close and serve. —Wesley Genovart

BEER Hoppy but balanced New England IPA: Harpoon.

MAD GENIUS TIP

Shaping Patties

To form perfect patties that cook evenly and look stellar, mound 6 ounces of ground meat on a plastic takeout lid, invert another lid on top, then press down to flatten.

Bloody Mary Burgers

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

11/2 lbs. ground sirloin

3 Tbsp. prepared horseradish, drained

3 Tbsp. tomato paste

2 tsp. hot sauce

2 tsp. Worcestershire sauce

11/2 tsp. celery seeds

Kosher salt and pepper

4 brioche hamburger buns, split and toasted

Mayonnaise, red leaf lettuce, sliced tomato and American cheese, for serving

1. In a bowl, using a fork, gently stir the ground sirloin with the horseradish, tomato paste, hot sauce, Worcestershire, celery seeds and 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Using 2 plastic lids from 1-quart takeout containers, press the beef mixture into 4 patties. Transfer to a plate.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Season the patties lightly with salt and pepper and grill over moderate heat, turning once, until medium-rare within, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the burgers to the buns, top with mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato and cheese and serve. —Justin Chapple

BEER Refreshing, hoppy pilsner: Sixpoint Crisp.

Steak Tacos with Pineapple

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4

3 Tbsp. soy sauce

1 Tbsp. finely grated garlic

1 Tbsp. finely grated peeled fresh ginger

11/2 lbs. skirt steak, cut into 5-inch lengths

Kosher salt and pepper

Warm corn tortillas, diced fresh pineapple, thinly sliced red onion and cilantro leaves, for serving

1. In a small bowl, whisk the soy sauce with the garlic and ginger. Brush the mixture all over the steak and season lightly with salt and pepper. Let stand for 20 minutes.

2. Heat a large cast-iron skillet. Add the steak and cook over high heat, turning once, until charred on the outside and medium-rare within, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes. Carve the steak against the grain and serve in warm corn tortillas with diced pineapple, sliced red onion and cilantro leaves. —Justin Chapple

BEER Toasty, chocolaty brown ale: Smuttynose Old Brown Dog.

Picadillo Tacos

imag Total 40 min; Serves 4 to 6

1/2 cup sliced almonds

3 Tbsp. canola oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 jalapeño, finely chopped

3 large garlic cloves, sliced

2 tsp. ground cinnamon

2 tsp. ground cumin

2 tsp. ground coriander

1/4 tsp. ground cloves

1 lb. ground beef chuck

2 cups tomato puree

1/2 cup golden raisins

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

Kosher salt and pepper

Warm corn tortillas, shredded lettuce, chopped onion, pinto beans, grated Cotija cheese, salsa and lime wedges, for serving

1. In a large skillet, toast the almonds over low heat, stirring, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

2. In the same skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil. Add the onion, jalapeño and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden, about 5 minutes. Add the cinnamon, cumin, coriander and cloves and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 minute. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and the ground beef and cook over moderate heat, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato puree and raisins. Simmer until thick, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the lime juice and season the picadillo with salt and pepper. Stir in the almonds.

3. Serve the picadillo in corn tortillas, passing shredded lettuce, chopped onion, pinto beans, grated cheese, salsa and lime wedges at the table. —Jenn Louis

BEER Crisp, malty ale: Full Sail Brewing Co. Amber.

Manti with Tomato Butter and Yogurt

Active 1 hr 30 min; Total 3 hr; Serves 6

These classic boiled Turkish dumplings are filled with tasty ground beef and served swimming in two sauces: smoky tomato butter and garlicky yogurt.

DOUGH

1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 large egg

1/8 tsp. kosher salt

MEAT FILLING

1/2 lb. ground beef

1 small onion, grated

3 Tbsp. minced parsley

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/4 tsp. pepper

YOGURT SAUCE

1 cup Greek yogurt

1/2 tsp. finely grated garlic

Kosher salt

TOMATO-BUTTER SAUCE

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 Tbsp. tomato sauce

1 tsp. paprika

Dried mint and Aleppo pepper, for garnish

1. Make the dough In a medium bowl, combine the flour, egg and salt with 5 tablespoons of water; mix with a wooden spoon until a dough forms. On a lightly floured work surface, knead the dough until smooth, about 5 minutes. Clean the bowl and return the dough to it. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 11/2 hours.

2. Make the meat filling In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix well.

3. Make the yogurt sauce In a small bowl, combine the yogurt and garlic and season with salt. Mix well and refrigerate.

4. Make the tomato-butter sauce In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Stir in the tomato sauce and paprika and keep warm.

5. Lightly dust a baking sheet with flour. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

6. On a lightly floured work surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough 1/16 inch thick. Cut the dough into 2-inch squares. Spoon 1/2 teaspoon of the filling in the center of each square. To form the manti, fold the dough over the filling to form a triangle; press the edges together to seal. Transfer the manti to the prepared baking sheet.

7. In a large pot of boiling water, boil the manti until tender and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to bowls. Top with the yogurt sauce and warm butter sauce, sprinkle with dried mint and Aleppo pepper and serve. —Scott Conant

Roast Beef 101 with Winter Vegetables

Total 1 hr; Serves 4 to 6

11/2lbs. rutabaga, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

1/2 lb. carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 garlic cloves, crushed

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

One 21/4-lb. beef tri-tip or coulotte roast

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1 cup dry red wine

1 tsp. cornstarch mixed with 1 Tbsp. water

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. On a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the rutabaga with the carrots, garlic and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast the vegetables for 35 minutes, until tender and browned in spots. Transfer to a platter; keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, season the roast with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet, melt the butter over moderately high heat. Add the roast and brown it all over, about 6 minutes. Roast the meat in the oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 120°. Transfer the roast to a carving board; let rest for 10 minutes.

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the shallot and cook over moderate heat until browned. Add the red wine, bring to a boil and simmer until reduced by half. Return the sauce to a boil and whisk in the cornstarch slurry. Cook over moderately high heat until thickened. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Thinly slice the roast across the grain and serve with the red wine sauce and roasted vegetables. —Ian Knauer

WINE Robust and fruity South Australian Shiraz: 2011 The Hedonist.

imag

PEPPER-CRUSTED PRIME RIB ROAST

Pepper-Crusted Prime Rib Roast

Active 15 min; Total 4 hr 30 min; Serves 12

One 9- to 10-lb. prime rib roast

2 Tbsp. kosher salt

1/4 cup multicolor whole peppercorns

1 guajillo chile, stemmed and chopped

2 Tbsp. rosemary leaves

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour

2 Tbsp. soy sauce

2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce

4 garlic cloves, minced

6 cups low-sodium beef broth

1. Season the roast with the salt and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

2. In a spice grinder, grind the peppercorns, guajillo chile and rosemary until coarse. Transfer to a medium bowl. Add all of the remaining ingredients except the broth and mix well.

3. Preheat the oven to 400°. Rub the pepper mix all over the roast. Place the roast on a rack set in a roasting pan. Add 2 cups of the broth to the pan and roast for 30 minutes, until the meat is well browned. Add 2 more cups of the broth and loosely tent the roast with foil. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°. Roast for about 21/2 hours, until an instant-read thermometer registers 115°; add the remaining 2 cups of broth halfway through. Set the roast on a cutting board to rest for about 30 minutes (the center of the roast will register at 125° for medium-rare).

4. Strain the pan juices into a small saucepan. Skim off as much fat as possible and bring to a simmer. Carve the roast and serve with the pan jus. —Marcela Valladolid

WINE Peppery California Cabernet: 2011 Chateau St. Jean Alexander Valley.

Roasted Dry-Aged Rib of Beef with Creamed Greens

Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 30 min Serves 10 to 12

Christina Lecki, chef at The Breslin in New York City, makes a quick and easy compound butter with parsley, marjoram and peppercorns to melt over her wonderfully tender beef rib roast.

RIB ROAST

One 10-lb. beef rib roast, chine bone removed

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

2 rosemary sprigs

5 thyme sprigs

MARJORAM BUTTER

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/4 cup chopped parsley

2 Tbsp. chopped brined green peppercorns

2 Tbsp. chopped marjoram

1 Tbsp. chopped thyme

1/2 tsp. finely grated garlic

1/2 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

CREAMED ESCAROLE AND SPINACH

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 shallots, minced

4 anchovy fillets in oil, drained and chopped

1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic

4 bunches of escarole (2 lbs.), trimmed and chopped (24 cups)

3 cups heavy cream

4 bunches of curly spinach (2 lbs.), stemmed (20 cups)

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper

Kosher salt and black pepper

1. Make the rib roast Preheat the oven to 450°. Place the roast fat side up on a rack set in a roasting pan. Rub all over with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Add the stock and the rosemary and thyme sprigs to the pan. Roast for 30 minutes, until well browned. Reduce the oven temperature to 350° and roast the meat for about 21/2 hours longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the roast registers 125° for medium-rare. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the marjoram butter In a small bowl, combine all of the ingredients and mix well. Let the butter stand at room temperature.

3. Meanwhile, make the creamed escarole and spinach In a pot, heat the olive oil. Add the shallots, anchovies and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the anchovies dissolve, about 2 minutes. In batches, stir in the escarole until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the heavy cream and bring to a boil. Simmer briskly until the cream is slightly reduced, about 10 minutes. Add the spinach in batches, stirring, until wilted. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the greens are very tender and the cream is reduced and very thick, about 30 minutes longer. Stir in the lemon zest, lemon juice and crushed red pepper and season with salt and black pepper.

4. Spread the marjoram butter all over the warm roast. Cut the roast off the bone, then thinly slice. Serve with the creamed escarole and spinach. —Christina Lecki

MAKE AHEAD The marjoram butter can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; bring to room temperature before using. The creamed escarole and spinach can be refrigerated overnight and reheated before serving.

WINE Herb-scented, black currant-inflected Cabernet Franc: 2012 Charles Joguet Les Petites Roches Chinon.

Fez-Style Roast Lamb Shoulder

Active 10 min; Total 3 hr 45 min; Serves 8

At major celebrations, Moroccans often serve spice-rubbed whole lamb that’s been cooked for hours on a spit. Tara Stevens, who runs a cooking school in Fez, created this simplified version: She rubs lamb shoulder with a garlicky cumin-ginger butter, then roasts it until supertender.

1/4 tsp. saffron threads

1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature

10 garlic cloves, crushed

1 Tbsp. ground cumin, plus more for serving

1 Tbsp. ground coriander

1 tsp. ground turmeric

1 tsp. ground ginger

One 5-lb. bone-in lamb shoulder, fat scored at 1/2-inch intervals

Kosher salt

1 cup dry rosé wine or water

Harissa, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a small skillet, toast the saffron over low heat just until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the saffron to a small bowl and crumble between your fingers. Add the butter, garlic, the 1 tablespoon of cumin, the coriander, turmeric and ginger and mix well.

2. Set the lamb in a large baking dish fat side up and rub all over with the spiced butter. Season with salt and roast for about 30 minutes, until the meat is golden brown. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°.

3. Add the rosé to the baking dish, cover with foil and roast for about 3 hours longer, basting occasionally, until the lamb is falling-off-the-bone tender. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Carve and serve with harissa and cumin for dipping. —Tara Stevens

WINE Bold, spiced Sicilian Nero d’Avola Valle dell’Acate: 2012 Case Ibidini.

Grilled Lamb Skewers with Sweet Pickles

Total 40 min plus 18 hr marinating Serves 6

LAMB

1/4 cup cilantro leaves

1/4 cup parsley leaves

3 garlic cloves

3 bay leaves

2 chiles de árbol

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp. sweet pimentón

1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. garam masala

1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. dried thyme

2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

11/2 tsp. pepper

1 cup canola oil, plus more for the grate

2 lbs. trimmed lamb shoulder, cut into 11/2-inch cubes

PICKLES

1 hothouse cucumber, thinly sliced on a mandoline

1/2 medium sweet onion, very thinly sliced on a mandoline (1 cup)

1/2 cup sugar

2 tsp. kosher salt

3/4 cup sherry vinegar

16 wooden skewers, soaked for 2 hours

1. Marinate the lamb In a blender, combine all of the ingredients except the lamb and puree until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl or resealable plastic bag, add the lamb and turn to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for 18 to 24 hours.

2. Meanwhile, make the pickles In a large bowl, toss the cucumber and onion. In a saucepan, combine the sugar and salt with 3/4 cup of water; bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar and salt. Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar; let cool slightly. Pour the warm brine over the cucumber and onion; let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight.

3. Light a grill and oil the grate. Remove the lamb from the marinade and thread onto the skewers; season lightly with salt. Grill, turning, until lightly charred and medium within, 6 to 7 minutes total. Transfer the lamb to a platter; serve with the pickles. —Katie Button

MAKE AHEAD The pickles can be drained and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

WINE Cherry-inflected, medium-bodied red Rioja: 2010 CVNE Viña Real Crianza.

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LAMB GYRO DUMPLINGS WITH TZATZIKI

Lamb Gyro Dumplings with Tzatziki

Total 1 hr 10 min; Makes 30

In a superdelicious mash-up of cuisines, Chicago chef Mike Sheerin packs gyro-inspired lamb into dumplings he serves with the Greek yogurt dip tzatziki. He makes the dumpling wrappers from scratch, but store-bought gyoza wrappers are a good substitute.

1/2 cup Greek yogurt

1/2 English cucumber, grated on a box grater and squeezed dry

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. chopped dill, plus more for garnish

1/8 tsp. cayenne

Kosher salt and pepper

1 lb. ground lamb

1 Tbsp. canola oil

2 tsp. onion powder

1 tsp. garlic powder

1 tsp. dried mint

1 tsp. dried oregano

1 garlic clove, minced

30 small round gyoza wrappers

1. In a medium bowl, whisk the yogurt with the cucumber, lemon zest, lemon juice, the 1 tablespoon of chopped dill and the cayenne. Season the tzatziki with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, about 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the lamb with the oil, onion powder, garlic powder, mint, oregano, garlic, 2 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper and mix well.

3. On a work surface, brush the rims of 5 gyoza wrappers with water and spoon 1 tablespoon of the filling into the center of each. Fold the wrappers over to form half-moons. Seal the edges, pressing out any air, and crimp decoratively. Transfer the dumplings to a parchment paper-lined baking sheet; keep them covered with a moist paper towel. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling.

4. Fill a wok or large skillet with 2 inches of water and bring to a boil. Working in batches, arrange the dumplings in a double-tiered bamboo steamer lined with parchment paper. Set the steamer over the boiling water, cover and steam the dumplings until the filling is cooked through and firm, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the dumplings to a platter and garnish with chopped dill. Serve with the tzatziki. —Mike Sheerin

BEER Hoppy, slightly tangy Belgian pale ale: Orval.

Rosemary-Garlic Lamb Chops with Pimentón and Mint

Active 25 min; Total 2 hr 25 min; Serves 4

L.A. chef Nancy Silverton adores the grilled, herb-flecked lamb chops scottadito (“burnt fingers”) served at the restaurant she frequents whenever she’s in Panicale, Italy. She tweaks the recipe by garnishing the lamb with smoky pimentón de la Vera and little mint leaves.

1/2 cup rosemary leaves

8 garlic cloves

Kosher salt and pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

12 baby lamb chops (about 3 oz. each)

1/4 cup small mint leaves and a large pinch of pimentón de la Vera, for garnish

1. In a blender, pulse the rosemary and garlic with a pinch each of salt and pepper until coarsely chopped. With the machine on, gradually add the 1/2 cup of olive oil until the rosemary and garlic are finely chopped. Scrape the mixture into a large baking dish and add the lamb chops. Turn the chops to coat and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Season the lamb chops with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning once, until nicely charred outside and medium-rare within, about 6 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Garnish with the mint leaves and pimentón, top with a drizzle of olive oil and serve immediately. —Nancy Silverton

WINE Dense, powerful Sagrantino: 2007 Paolo Bea Pagliaro Secco.

Grilled Lamb with Pickled Eggplant Salad and Herbed Yogurt

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 45 min plus 8 hr marinating; Serves 4

At Otium in L.A., chef Timothy Hollingsworth grills garlic-marinated lamb chops over almond wood, but the chops are also great simply seared on a charcoal grill or even in a grill pan.

LAMB

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 Tbsp. minced rosemary

1 Tbsp. minced thyme

12 baby lamb chops (3 lbs.)

Kosher salt and pepper

YOGURT SAUCE

1 cup whole-milk yogurt

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 11/2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

11/2 tsp. finely chopped thyme

11/2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary

Kosher salt and pepper

SALAD

1 cup Champagne vinegar

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

Two 12-oz. Japanese or Chinese eggplants, cut into 1/2-inch dice

1 English cucumber, chopped

3/4 cup pitted mixed marinated olives

2 cups baby arugula

Kosher salt and pepper

1. Marinate the lamb In a baking dish, whisk the olive oil with the lemon juice, garlic, rosemary and thyme. Add the lamb and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight, turning occasionally. Bring the lamb to room temperature before grilling.

2. Make the yogurt sauce In a medium bowl, whisk the yogurt with the lemon zest, lemon juice, thyme and rosemary. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

3. Make the salad In a medium saucepan, combine the vinegar with the sugar, orange juice and 1 cup of water; bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Add the eggplant and cook for 2 minutes. Off the heat, let the eggplant cool completely in the liquid, about 45 minutes. Drain well.

4. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Remove the lamb from the marinade and season with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning once, until charred outside and medium-rare within, about 6 minutes total. Transfer the chops to plates and let rest for 5 minutes.

5. In a serving bowl, toss the drained pickled eggplant with the cucumber, olives and arugula. Season the eggplant salad with salt and pepper. Serve the lamb with the salad, passing the yogurt sauce at the table. —Timothy Hollingsworth

MAKE AHEAD The pickled eggplant can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

WINE Spicy, lightly smoky, full-bodied Shiraz: 2013 Paringa.

Thin Grilled Lamb Chops with Lemon

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

New York City chef April Bloomfield’s trick for juicy lamb chops is to pound them so thin they cook in a flash, which keeps them moist on the grill.

12 lamb rib chops (21/4 lbs.), frenched (have your butcher do this)

Kosher salt

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. On a work surface, wrap each lamb chop in 3 layers of plastic. Using a meat mallet or small saucepan, pound each chop to a 1/2-inch thickness.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan over high heat. Season the lamb chops all over with salt. Grill over high heat until nicely charred on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip the chops and cook until medium-rare within, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Transfer to a platter and serve with lemon wedges. —April Bloomfield

WINE Herb-inflected, red-berried southern French red: 2013 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence.

Roast Leg of Lamb with Hemp Seed Pesto

Active 45 min; Total 4 hr 15 min plus overnight marinating; Serves 8 to 10

High-protein hemp seeds add nutty flavor to the pesto that accompanies this delectable yogurt-glazed lamb.

LAMB

1/2 cup full-fat plain Greek yogurt

6 garlic cloves, minced

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp. minced rosemary

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

One 6-lb. whole bone-in leg of lamb, excess fat trimmed

Lemon wedges, for serving

PESTO

13/4 cups each lightly packed basil and parsley leaves

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and pepper

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup hulled hemp seeds

1. Prepare the lamb In a bowl, whisk the yogurt with the garlic, lemon juice, rosemary, olive oil and 1 tablespoon each of salt and pepper. Rub the mixture all over the lamb and set on a large rimmed baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Let the lamb stand at room temperature for 1 hour before roasting.

2. Preheat the oven to 375°. Season the lamb lightly with salt and pepper and roast for about 1 hour and 50 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 140°. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 30 minutes.

3. Make the pesto In a food processor, pulse the basil, parsley, garlic and lemon juice with a pinch of salt until minced. With the machine on, gradually add the olive oil until incorporated. Scrape the pesto into a bowl and stir in the hemp seeds. Season with salt and pepper. Carve the lamb and serve with the pesto and lemon wedges. —Michael Schwartz

WINE Berry-rich Spanish Garnacha: 2012 Joan d’Anguera.

Herbed Leg of Lamb with Olive Butter and Roasted Tomatoes

Active 1 hr; Total 3 hr 30 min plus overnight marinating; Serves 6 to 8

1/3 cup coarsely chopped shallots

1/2 cup crushed garlic cloves

1/3 cup each thyme leaves, parsley leaves and chopped rosemary

3 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

1/3 cup plus 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 stick plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

One 5-lb. well-trimmed boned and butterflied leg of lamb

Kosher salt and pepper

2 lbs. cherry tomatoes

2 thyme sprigs

Chunky Olive Butter (recipe follows), for serving

1. In a blender or food processor, combine the shallots, garlic, thyme, parsley, rosemary, mustard and 1/3 cup of the olive oil; blend until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the butter.

2. Arrange the lamb fat side down on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Spread the herb butter all over the lamb, leaving a 1-inch border. Refrigerate until the butter is semifirm, 30 minutes. Roll up the lamb with the butter inside and tie securely with kitchen twine at 1-inch intervals. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

3. Preheat the oven to 400°. Rub the lamb with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 130° for medium-rare, about 1 hour and 45 minutes. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let rest for 20 minutes. Leave the oven on.

4. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the tomatoes with the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil and the thyme sprigs and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes, stirring, until softened.

5. Discard the strings and thinly slice the lamb. Serve with the roasted tomatoes and olive butter. —Dave Beran

WINE Dense, savory Côtes du Rhône: 2013 Éric Texier Brézème.

CHUNKY OLIVE BUTTER

imag Total 10 min; Makes about 11/2 cups

1 stick plus 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup pitted and chopped Picholine or Niçoise olives

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1/4 cup chopped parsley

Kosher salt and pepper

In a medium bowl, combine the butter with the olives, mustard and parsley and season with salt and pepper. —DB

MAKE AHEAD The olive butter can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; bring to room temperature before serving.

Grilled Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Ancho-Huckleberry Sauce

Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4

This dish from Ari Weiswasser, chef-owner of Glen Ellen Star in Sonoma, is all about the sauce: It has just the right amounts of heat, spice and sweetness to highlight the pure lamb flavor of the simply grilled cut.

2 oz. ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded

Boiling water

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup minced Spanish onion

2 garlic cloves, minced

Kosher salt and pepper

1/8 tsp. ground cumin

1/8 tsp. cinnamon

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

1/8 tsp. ground allspice

1/8 tsp. ground oregano

2 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

2 Tbsp. plain dry breadcrumbs

1/2 oz. unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped

1 Tbsp. sugar

1/4 cup crushed tomatoes

1/4 cup chicken stock

1/3 cup huckleberry or currant jam

1 Tbsp. aged balsamic vinegar

One 2-lb. butterflied leg of lamb

Canola oil, for brushing

1. In a heatproof bowl, cover the chiles with boiling water and let stand until softened, 20 minutes. Drain the chiles, res­erving 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid. In a blender, puree the chiles with the reserved soaking liquid until smooth. Strain the puree through a fine sieve.

2. In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, garlic and a pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 4 minutes. Add the cumin, cinnamon, cloves, allspice and oregano and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the chile puree, sesame seeds, breadcrumbs, chocolate and sugar and bring to a boil. Stir in the tomatoes, chicken stock, jam and vinegar and bring just to a simmer. Season the sauce with salt and keep warm.

3. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Brush the lamb with canola oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to moderate and grill until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the meat registers 135° for medium-rare or 140° for medium, about 20 minutes total. Transfer the lamb to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Carve across the grain and serve with the warm ancho-huckleberry sauce. —Ari Weiswasser

MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

WINE Peppery, dark-berried Sonoma Zinfandel: 2013 Ravenswood Estate.

Curried Goat with Apricot-Ginger Chutney

Active 1 hr; Total 6 hr plus 24 hr marinating Serves 6 to 8

New York chef Adam Schop’s brothy version of this Jamaican classic is lighter than most. He starts by marinating pieces of the tender goat forequarter with spices, aromatics and yogurt for at least 24 hours. The stew is usually made with water, but Schop uses vegetable stock to amp up the flavor.

MARINATED GOAT

10 scallions, quartered crosswise

1/2 medium onion, finely chopped

One 21/2-inch piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped

1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro

1/3 cup plain yogurt

1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. West Indian curry powder (see Note)

1/4 cup ground coriander

3 Tbsp. garam masala

3 Tbsp. vegetable oil

4 lbs. meaty, well-trimmed goat forequarter, cut into 21/2-inch pieces (see Note)

GOAT STEW

Kosher salt and pepper

1/4 cup vegetable oil

3 quarts vegetable stock

10 scallions, coarsely chopped

1 medium red pepper, coarsely chopped

1 medium red onion, coarsely chopped

1 large carrot, coarsely chopped

10 thyme sprigs

1 Scotch bonnet or habanero chile, stemmed and halved lengthwise

1 cup frozen peas

Apricot-Ginger Chutney (recipe follows) and warm roti or naan, or Rice and Peas (p. 245), for serving

1. Marinate the goat In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients except the goat pieces and pulse until finely chopped. In a large bowl, rub the marinade into the meat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 to 36 hours.

2. Make the stew Wipe the marinade off the goat; season with salt and pepper. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Working in batches, brown the goat on all sides over moderate heat, 10 minutes per batch; transfer to a plate.

3. Pour off the fat in the casserole and return all of the goat to it. Add the vegetable stock and bring to a boil, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the casserole. Reduce the heat to moderate and simmer uncovered for 3 hours, skimming as necessary. Cover the casserole and continue cooking until the goat is tender, about 11/2 hours longer.

4. Add the scallions, red pepper, red onion, carrot, thyme and chile and simmer uncovered until the goat is very tender and the vegetables are softened, about 30 minutes. Stir in the peas and simmer for 5 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and skim off the fat. Season the stew with salt and pepper and serve with Apricot-Ginger Chutney and warm roti or naan, or Rice and Peas. —Adam Schop

NOTE West Indian curry powder usually contains allspice, which Indian blends often don’t, and it’s usually quite yellow, thanks to a large amount of turmeric. It’s available at spice shops and kalustyans.com. Goat forequarter includes the neck, shoulder and shank. Ask your butcher to cut the bone- in meat into 21/2-inch pieces.

WINE Spicy, red berry-dense Côtes du Rhône: 2013 Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles.

APRICOT-GINGER CHUTNEY

imag Total 30 min; Makes 1 cup

This intensely gingery condiment is a sweet and spicy foil for the curry. When fresh apricots become available, feel free to dice some up and stir them in.

3/4 cup packed light brown sugar

3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

2 large shallots, minced (1 cup)

4 oz. fresh ginger, peeled and minced (3/4 cup)

1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. apricot nectar

12 dried apricots, minced (1/2 cup)

1 Tbsp. thyme leaves

2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint

Kosher salt

In a medium saucepan, cook the brown sugar over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until evenly melted and caramelized, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour in the vinegar and stir until the caramel dissolves. Stir in the shallots, ginger, apricot nectar, dried apricots and thyme. Cook over moderately high heat until the shallots and dried apricots are tender, about 8 minutes longer. Transfer the chutney to a small bowl. Stir in the mint and season with salt. Let cool to room temperature before serving. —AS

MAKE AHEAD The chutney can be refrigerated for up to a week. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Lamb and Grilled Squash with Serrano Chile

imag Active 20 min; Total 35 min; Serves 4

1 lb. trimmed lamb shoulder, cut into 11/2-inch pieces

2 small summer squash (zucchini and/or yellow squash), cut into 2-inch pieces

2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

2 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup canola oil

Thinly sliced serrano chile and chopped cilantro, for garnish

Lime wedges, for serving

Light a grill. In a large bowl, toss the lamb and squash with the fish sauce, vinegar and oil. Let stand for 15 minutes. Grill the lamb and squash over moderate heat, turning, until the lamb is medium within, about 10 minutes. Transfer to plates. Garnish with the chile and cilantro and serve with lime wedges. —Kay Chun

WINE Juicy, floral South African Chenin Blanc: 2014 Indaba.