Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)

PORK

CITRUS-MARINATED PORK CHOP

Citrus-Marinated Pork Chops

Total 1 hr; Serves 4

Seamus Mullen, chef at New York City’s Tertulia, serves his citrus-glazed pork chops with a fresh, spicy slaw that’s an unexpected combination of endives, cauliflower and jalapeños.

PORK

1 cup fresh orange juice

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus ¹/₄ cup fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. finely grated lime zest plus ¹/₄ cup fresh lime juice

¹/₄ cup honey

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 small red onion, sliced

Four 10-oz. bone-in pork loin chops, cut 1 inch thick

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and pepper

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

SLAW

3 Tbsp. coconut oil

3 Tbsp. vinegar

1 garlic clove, minced

¹/₂ tsp. finely grated orange zest plus ¹/₄ cup fresh orange juice

2 endives—halved lengthwise, cored and thinly sliced

1 jalapeño, thinly sliced

¹/₂ head of cauliflower, florets thinly sliced

¹/₄ cup chopped cilantro

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₃ cup roasted cashews, chopped

¹/₃ cup unsweetened coconut flakes

1. Prepare the pork Whisk the citrus juices and zests with the honey, garlic and onion. Add the chops and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.

2. Remove the chops from the marinade. Strain and reserve the marinade. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the chops with salt and pepper, add 2 to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat until golden, about 2 minutes per side; transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 2 chops. Clean the skillet.

3. In the same skillet, melt the butter. Add the chops and the strained marinade and cook over moderate heat, turning and basting, until the chops are cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes; an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of each chop should register 135°. Transfer the chops to plates and spoon some of the sauce on top.

4. Meanwhile, make the slaw In a large bowl, whisk the coconut oil, vinegar, garlic and orange zest and juice. Add the endives, jalapeño, cauliflower and cilantro, season with salt and pepper and toss well.

5. Top the chops with the slaw. Scatter the cashews and coconut flakes on top and serve. —Seamus Mullen

WINE Juicy, raspberry-inflected Garnacha: 2012 Celler de Capçanes Mas Donís.

Crispy Pork Chops with Warm Fennel Salad

Total 45 min; Serves 4

Pounding bone-in pork chops schnitzel-thin before pan-frying means they cook in just 5 minutes, so the meat stays tender within the crispy panko crust. The secret ingredient in the coating here: ground fennel.

³/₄ cup all-purpose flour

2 tsp. ground fennel

Kosher salt and pepper

1 large egg

2 cups panko

Four 8-oz. bone-in pork rib chops, meat pounded ¹/₈ inch thick

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

2 fennel bulbs (1¹/₄ lbs.), cored and thinly sliced

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

¹/₃ cup chopped pitted oil-cured olives

1 Fuji apple, finely chopped

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a shallow dish, mix the flour and ground fennel; season with salt and pepper. In another shallow dish, beat the egg. In a third shallow dish, spread the panko and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the pork chops in the flour, shaking off the excess. Dip them in the egg, then dredge in the panko to coat. Place the pork chops on a large plate.

2. In a large cast-iron skillet, melt ¹/₂ tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add 2 of the chops and cook over moderately high heat until golden, about 2 minutes. Flip the chops, add another ¹/₂ tablespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of oil to the skillet and cook until just golden on the outside and white throughout, about 2 minutes. Transfer the chops to a paper towel-lined plate. Wipe out the skillet. Repeat the process to fry the remaining 2 pork chops.

3. Wipe out the skillet and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the fennel and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until light golden and crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and olives and cook until the olives are warm, about 1 minute. Stir in the apple and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the pork chops to plates and top with the fennel salad. Serve with lemon wedges. —Kay Chun

WINE Floral, citrus-edged Chardonnay: 2013 Varner Bee Block.

Pork Chops with Fennel and Juniper

FRONT COVER

Active 30 min; Total 3 hr 45 min; Serves 4

When her Roman butcher can get it, cookbook author Rachel Roddy uses pork from a revered breed of Tuscan pig, the white-belted Cinta Senese. She rubs the chops with a mix of crushed juniper, fresh fennel and fennel seeds to give them a fragrant, herbal flavor.

¹/₂ cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

6 garlic cloves, chopped

12 juniper berries, crushed

1 Tbsp. fennel seeds, crushed

Four 1-inch-thick bone-in pork rib chops (12 oz. each)

Kosher salt and pepper

1 fennel bulb with fronds, bulb and fronds coarsely chopped

1. In a small bowl, mix ¹/₂ cup of the olive oil with the garlic, juniper berries and fennel seeds. Season the pork chops with salt and pepper and rub all over with the garlic-juniper oil. Arrange the pork in a baking dish or place in a resealable plastic bag. Add the chopped fennel and fronds and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 3 to 4 hours. Remove the pork from the marinade; discard the marinade.

2. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large cast-iron grill pan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the chops and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast the chops for 12 to 14 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of a chop registers 140°. Transfer the chops to a cutting board and let rest for 5 minutes before serving. —Rachel Roddy

SERVE WITH Grilled young fennel.

WINE Cherry-rich, lightly herbal Tuscan red: 2010 Villa di Capezzana Carmignano.

Grilled Pork Chops with Malt and Burnt Onion Glaze

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 10 min; Serves 8

4 yellow onions—2 peeled, quartered and separated into petals, and 2 peeled and chopped

2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

1 cup barley malt syrup (see Note)

Kosher salt and pepper

Four 1-inch-thick meaty pork blade chops (3¹/₂ lbs.)

¹/₄ cup canola oil

1 lb. Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

2 Tbsp. chopped mint

2 Tbsp. chopped cilantro

¹/₂ tsp. finely grated lemon zest, plus lemon wedges for serving

¹/₄ tsp. ground cinnamon

¹/₈ tsp. finely grated garlic

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Line a baking sheet with foil. Spread the onion petals on the foil and roast for about 1 hour, until completely black. Transfer to a blender and blend until powdery black ash forms.

2. In a large skillet, heat the grapeseed oil. Add the chopped onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Stir in the syrup and onion ash; remove from the heat. Let stand for 5 minutes. Transfer the mixture to the blender and puree until smooth. Scrape the glaze into a medium bowl and season with salt.

3. Light a grill. Rub the pork chops with 2 tablespoons of the canola oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat, turning and basting occasionally with the onion glaze, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a chop registers 140°, about 15 minutes. Transfer the chops to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, toss the eggplant with the remaining 2 tablespoons of canola oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderate heat, turning, until nicely charred and tender, about 8 minutes.

5. In a small bowl, mix the herbs with the lemon zest, cinnamon and garlic and season with salt. Thinly slice the chops and transfer to plates. Add the eggplant and sprinkle with the cinnamon gremolata. Serve with lemon wedges. —Jim Christiansen

NOTE Barley malt syrup is available at health food stores and online from kingarthurflour.com.

MAKE AHEAD The glaze can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.

WINE Earthy, red-berried Italian red: 2013 La Kiuva Arnad-Montjovet.

Chicken-Fried Pork

Total 30 min; Serves 4

2 large eggs

1 Tbsp. whole milk

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups panko (2¹/₂ oz.)

Four 6-oz. boneless pork loin chops, pounded ¹/₃ inch thick

Kosher salt and pepper

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. In a shallow bowl, beat the eggs with the milk. Put the flour and panko into 2 separate shallow bowls. Season the pork with salt and pepper; dredge in the flour, then dip in the eggs and coat with the panko, pressing lightly to help it adhere.

2. Set a rack on a baking sheet. In a large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add 2 pieces of pork and cook over moderately high heat until golden, about 2 minutes. Flip the pork, add another tablespoon of butter to the skillet and cook until the pork is golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the rack and keep warm in the oven. Wipe out the skillet and repeat to fry the remaining 2 pork chops. Transfer the chops to plates and serve with lemon wedges. —Ford Fry

WINE Ripe, full-bodied German Riesling: 2013 Hexamer Quarzit.

Pork Milanese with Dandelion Green Salad

Total 45 min; Serves 4 to 6

2 large eggs

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 cups panko

Six 3-oz. pork loin cutlets

Kosher salt and pepper

1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for frying

4 bacon slices (4 oz.), cut crosswise ¹/₄ inch thick

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into ¹/₂-inch dice

¹/₂ small red onion, cut into thin strips

¹/₂ cup apple cider

2¹/₂ Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

¹/₂ lb. dandelion greens, thick stems discarded, leaves cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces

1. Preheat the oven to 200°. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. In a shallow bowl, beat the eggs with 1 tablespoon of water. Put the flour and panko in 2 separate shallow bowls.

2. Season the pork cutlets with salt and pepper. Dredge in the flour, then dip in the egg, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Dredge the coated pork in the panko, pressing lightly to help it adhere.

3. In a large skillet, heat ¹/₄ inch of olive oil until shimmering. Add 3 of the cutlets and fry over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned and just cooked through, about 5 minutes; transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining cutlets. Transfer the pork to the oven to keep warm.

4. Wipe out the skillet and heat the 1 teaspoon of olive oil in it. Add the bacon and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until browned and crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the apples and onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the apple just starts to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the apple cider and vinegar and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes.

5. Scrape the apple mixture into a large bowl. Add the dandelion greens and toss well. Season with salt and pepper and toss again. Transfer the pork Milanese to plates, top with the salad and serve right away. —Anne Burrell

WINE Spiced, cherry-rich Oregon Pinot Noir: 2013 St. Innocent Temperance Hill.

Beet-and-Caraway-Roasted Pork Tenderloin

Active 15 min; Total 1 hr 15 min Serves 4 to 6

This pork roast gets its striking fuchsia color from an unexpected ingredient: beet peels. Along with the caraway seeds, they add a sweet earthiness.

3 oz. red beet peels (1¹/₂ cups)

2 Tbsp. kosher salt

2 tsp. caraway seeds

Two 1-lb. pork tenderloins

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Pepper

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a mini food processor, puree the beet peels, salt and caraway seeds until a paste forms. On a rimmed baking sheet, rub each pork tenderloin with 2 tablespoons of the beet paste. Let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°. Drizzle the pork with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with pepper. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 135°. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest for 10 minutes. Slice the pork ¹/₂ inch thick and transfer to a platter. Drizzle with olive oil and serve with lemon wedges. —Justin Chapple

WINE Dark-berried, lightly herbal Loire Valley Cabernet Franc: 2010 Olga Raffault Les Picasses Chinon.

Pork Tenderloin with Sage, Garlic and Honey

Active 35 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 4

¹/₂ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

One 1¹/₂-lb. pork tenderloin, cut in half crosswise and tied (have your butcher do this)

Kosher salt and pepper

3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced

12 sage leaves

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

¹/₂ medium onion, thinly sliced

1 small carrot, sliced

2 thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

¹/₂ cup dry white wine

1 cup chicken stock

2 Tbsp. honey

1. Rub the nutmeg all over the pork and season generously with salt and pepper. Tuck the garlic and sage under the strings and let the pork stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. In a large, deep skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the oil. Cook the pork over high heat, turning, until browned all over, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet. Add the onion, carrot, thyme, bay leaf and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are softened and browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer for 1 minute. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Return the pork to the skillet, cover and braise over moderately low heat, turning occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the pork registers 135°, 13 to 15 minutes. Transfer the pork to a carving board; let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, strain the braising liquid; discard the solids. Return the liquid to the skillet and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat; whisk in the honey and remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper.

5. Discard the string. Slice the tenderloin. Serve with the sauce. —Mimi Thorisson

WINE Cabernet-forward Left Bank Bordeaux: 2011 Château de Pez.

Thyme-Basted Pork Tenderloin with Oyster Mushrooms

Total 45 min; Serves 4

Chef Dai Shinozuka of Les Enfants Rouges in Paris garnishes pan-roasted pork with an enticing, crunchy mix of walnuts, shallot and chives.

1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

One 1¹/₄-lb. pork tenderloin

Kosher salt and pepper

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1¹/₂ lbs. oyster mushrooms, trimmed and torn into 1-inch pieces

4 garlic cloves—2 minced and 2 crushed

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

2 large thyme sprigs

Toasted walnuts, chopped shallot and chives and flaky sea salt, for garnish

1. In a 12-inch ovenproof skillet, heat the grapeseed oil until shimmering. Season the pork with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat until browned all over, about 5 minutes. Transfer to the oven and roast the pork until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 135°, 18 to 20 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a very large skillet, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in the olive oil. Add the mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until golden, about 15 minutes. Add the minced garlic and the parsley and cook, stirring, until the garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.

3. Set the pork over moderate heat. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter, the crushed garlic and the thyme to the skillet and cook until the butter is foamy. Baste the meat with the butter just until the butter browns, 2 to 3 minutes.

4. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and cut into thick slices. Spoon the mushrooms onto a platter, top with the pork and drizzle with the brown butter. Garnish with walnuts, shallot, chives and flaky salt and serve. —Dai Shinozuka

WINE Vibrant, earthy red Burgundy: 2011 Louis Jadot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Boudots.

Curried Pork Tenderloin with Apple-Coconut Yogurt Sauce

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 6

This juicy, spice-rubbed pork tenderloin is from chef Jenn Louis of Lincoln Restaurant in Portland, Oregon. She serves it with a creamy, sweet and spicy yogurt sauce that comes together in minutes.

1 bay leaf, crumbled

³/₄ tsp. each ground coriander, ground cumin and mustard powder

1¹/₂ Tbsp. curry powder

¹/₄ tsp. cayenne

2 tsp. light brown sugar

Kosher salt and pepper

Two 1-lb. pork tenderloins

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1 cup full-fat Greek yogurt

1 small jalapeño, seeded and minced

1 small carrot, finely grated

1 Honeycrisp apple, peeled and coarsely grated

2 Tbsp. unsweetened shredded coconut

¹/₂ tsp. finely grated lime zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1. In a small bowl, combine the bay leaf, coriander, cumin, mustard powder, curry powder, cayenne, brown sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt. Rub the spice mix all over the pork and let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 450°. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil. Season the pork with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, turning, until golden brown, 2 minutes. Transfer to the oven and roast for 10 to 12 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 135°. Transfer the pork to a plate; let rest for 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the remaining ingredients and season with salt and pepper.

4. Slice the pork crosswise ¹/₂ inch thick. Serve with the yogurt sauce. —Jenn Louis

WINE Cherry-rich, medium-bodied Oregon Pinot Noir: 2012 Erath Estate Selection.

EARL GREY-CRUSTED PORK LOIN WITH FENNEL AND APPLES

Earl Grey-Crusted Pork Loin with Fennel and Apples

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 15 min Serves 6 to 8

Bergamot-scented Earl Grey tea infuses this pork with a lovely citrusy flavor. If you don’t have loose-leaf tea, cut open nine tea bags; each holds about 1 teaspoon.

3 Tbsp. finely ground Earl Grey tea

Kosher salt and pepper

One 3¹/₂-lb. boneless pork loin roast, tied

3 fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut through the core into 1-inch wedges

3 firm, sweet cooking apples, such as Gala, quartered lengthwise and cored

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. thyme leaves

1. In a small bowl, whisk the tea with 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Rub all over the pork and set the meat fat side up on a large rimmed baking sheet. Let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 450°. Roast the pork for 20 minutes, until lightly browned. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, toss the fennel and apple wedges with the olive oil and thyme and season with salt and pepper.

3. Reduce the oven temperature to 400°. Scatter the fennel and apple wedges around the pork. Roast for about 35 minutes longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 135°. Transfer the pork to a carving board and let rest for 15 minutes. Discard the strings. Thinly slice the pork and serve with the fennel and apples. —Justin Chapple

WINE Fragrant, light-bodied red: 2012 Potel-Aviron Côte de Brouilly Beaujolais.

SLOW-COOKED PORK SHOULDER WITH ROASTED APPLES

Slow-Cooked Pork Shoulder with Roasted Apples

Active 45 min; Total 8 hr 15 min Serves 6 to 8

Bone-in pork shoulder takes a long time to cook, but the prep is minimal: Simply score the skin with a sharp knife and season the meat, then leave it alone to baste itself in the oven.

One 9-lb. skin-on, bone-in pork shoulder

8 bay leaves

1 Tbsp. juniper berries

Kosher salt and pepper

6 baking apples, such as Gala, quartered and cored

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 small cinnamon sticks

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Using a sharp knife, score the pork skin in a crosshatch pattern. Set the pork in a large roasting pan, skin side up.

2. In a spice grinder, combine the bay leaves with the juniper berries, ¹/₄ cup of salt and 2 teaspoons of pepper and grind into a powder. Rub the spice mixture all over the pork and into the scored skin. Roast the pork for 30 minutes, until lightly browned. Reduce the oven temperature to 325° and roast for about 6¹/₂ hours, until the pork is very tender and the skin is crisp. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 30 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, on a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the apples with the oil and cinnamon sticks; season generously with salt and pepper. Roast for about 30 minutes, tossing once, until the apples are lightly browned and softened slightly. Discard the cinnamon sticks.

4. Remove the pork skin and coarsely chop it. Using 2 forks, pull the pork into large pieces, discarding the fat and bones. Transfer the pork to a platter and scatter the chopped skin on top. Serve with the roasted apples. —Nate Ready

WINE Robust, hillside Napa Cabernet Sauvignon: 2010 Abreu Howell Mountain.

Roast Pork with Acorn Squash Romesco Puree

Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 30 min; Serves 8

Romesco, a Catalan sauce made with almonds and red bell pepper, is the inspiration for this winter squash puree.

PORK AND SQUASH

One 8-rib center-cut rack of pork, chine bone removed (8 lbs.)

¹/₂ cup plus 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. chopped rosemary

1 Tbsp. chopped thyme

Kosher salt and pepper

1 acorn squash (1³/₄ lbs.), quartered and seeded

5 garlic cloves

1 yellow onion, quartered

1 red bell pepper, quartered

4 oz. sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch pieces

¹/₄ cup unsalted roasted almonds, chopped

1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

¹/₄ tsp. piment d’Espelette

SALAD

¹/₂ small shallot, finely diced

2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

1 Tbsp. grated fresh horseradish, plus more for garnish

¹/₂ Tbsp. sorghum syrup

1 tsp. Dijon mustard

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 bunches of dandelion greens, coarsely chopped

Kosher salt and pepper

1. Make the pork and squash Preheat the oven to 450°. Set the pork fat side up on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. Rub the roast with 2 tablespoons of the oil and the rosemary and thyme; season with salt and pepper. On another rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash, garlic, onion and bell pepper with 2 tablespoons of the oil; season with salt and pepper.

2. Roast the pork in the middle third of the oven and the vegetables in the bottom third for about 40 minutes, until the squash is tender. Transfer the vegetables to a rack to cool. Turn the oven down to 375° and roast the pork for about 45 minutes longer, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 135°. Transfer the pork to a work surface and let rest for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, on another baking sheet, toss the bread with 1 tablespoon of the oil and bake until golden, 12 minutes.

4. When the squash is cool, scoop the flesh into a food processor. Peel the bell pepper and discard the skin. Add the roasted pepper, garlic and onion to the processor along with the croutons, almonds, vinegar and piment d’Espelette. Puree until almost smooth. With the machine on, slowly stream in the remaining ¹/₄ cup of olive oil. Season the puree with salt and pepper.

5. Make the salad In a medium bowl, whisk the first 6 ingredients. Add the greens and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and garnish with more fresh horseradish.

6. Carve the pork and serve with the squash puree and dandelion salad. —Mike Lata

WINE Lively, red-berried Beaujolais: 2013 Terres Dorées Côte de Brouilly.

TACOS AL PASTOR

Tacos al Pastor

Total 1 hr 15 min plus overnight marinating Serves 8

1 Tbsp. canola oil, plus more for brushing

3 garlic cloves

1 tsp. dried oregano

¹/₂ tsp. ground cumin

¹/₂ tsp. pepper

¹/₄ tsp. ground cloves

4 guajillo chiles—stemmed, seeded and cut into 2-inch pieces

¹/₃ cup pineapple juice

¹/₄ cup distilled white vinegar

2 Tbsp. achiote paste

Sea salt

2 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, sliced ¹/₄ inch thick

¹/₂ medium pineapple, peeled and sliced ¹/₂ inch thick

1 medium red onion, sliced crosswise ¹/₂ inch thick

Warm corn tortillas, chopped cilantro and lime wedges, for serving

1. In a medium saucepan, heat the 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the garlic and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Stir in the oregano, cumin, pepper and cloves and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chiles and cook, stirring, until blistered in spots, about 30 seconds. Add the pineapple juice, vinegar and achiote paste and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.

2. Transfer the chile mixture to a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt. Scrape the marinade into a large, sturdy plastic bag. Add the pork and turn to coat. Set the bag in a small baking dish and refrigerate overnight.

3. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Brush the pineapple and onion with oil. Grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred and softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a carving board and tent with foil.

4. Remove the pork from the marinade. Grill over high heat until lightly charred and just cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to the carving board and let rest for 5 minutes.

5. Cut the pineapple, onion and pork into thin strips and transfer to a bowl. Season with salt. Serve with corn tortillas, chopped cilantro and lime wedges. —Courtney Contos

BEER Crisp, lightly malty amber ale: Anderson Valley Brewing Company Boont Amber.

Spiced Pork Crown Roast with Roasted Vegetables

Active 45 min; Total 4 hr 15 min Serves 16

1¹/₂ Tbsp. whole cloves

1¹/₂ Tbsp. whole allspice berries

6 whole star anise

One 1¹/₂-inch cinnamon stick

3 bay leaves

1 dried Thai chile, stemmed

1 tsp. ground mace

One 16-rib crown roast of pork (about 10 lbs.), tied, bones frenched

Kosher salt and pepper

16 torpedo onions or large shallots, peeled

1¹/₂ lbs. medium fingerling potatoes

1¹/₂ lbs. parsnips, peeled and cut into 2¹/₂-inch pieces

1¹/₂ lbs. medium turnips, peeled and cut into 2¹/₂-inch pieces

1 lb. rutabaga, peeled and cut into 2¹/₂-inch pieces

1 cup sage leaves

12 garlic cloves

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1. In a small skillet, combine the cloves, allspice, star anise, cinnamon stick, bay leaves and chile and toast over moderately high heat, stirring, until the spices just start to smoke, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder and let cool, then add the mace and grind to a powder.

2. Season the pork roast with salt and pepper and rub the spice mixture all over it. Let the roast stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

3. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 325°. In a very large roasting pan, toss the onions with the potatoes, parsnips, turnips, rutabaga, sage, garlic cloves and oil. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Set the pork roast on top of the vegetables. Lightly coat 16 small squares of foil with nonstick spray and wrap each rib bone to prevent burning. Roast the pork for 2 hours, until beginning to brown. Increase the oven temperature to 450° and roast for about 40 minutes longer, until the vegetables are tender and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the pork registers 140°. Transfer the roast to a platter and let rest for 15 minutes. Carve the pork roast between the ribs and serve with the roasted vegetables. —Christina Lecki

MAKE AHEAD The spice mix can be made up to 3 days ahead.

WINE Robust Cabernet Sauvignon: 2012 Joseph Carr Napa County.

Clove-and-Cider-Glazed Ham

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 12

One 7- to 8-lb. spiral-cut ham

1 cup fresh apple cider

¹/₂ cup light brown sugar

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

2 Tbsp. bourbon

1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar

One 3-inch cinnamon stick

6 whole cloves

¹/₂ tsp. black peppercorns

¹/₂ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Place the ham in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish.

2. In a small saucepan, combine all of the remaining ingredients and bring to a simmer, whisking occasionally. Cook over moderately low heat until reduced to ³/₄ cup, about 25 minutes. Pour the glaze over the ham, leaving the spices on the meat. Cover tightly with foil. Bake for about 1 hour and 15 minutes, basting every 15 minutes, until heated through. Transfer to a platter.

3. Strain the pan juices into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until reduced to a glaze, 8 to 10 minutes. Spoon the glaze over the ham; serve. —Carla Hall

WINE Spiced, red-berried, medium-bodied red: 2013 Monte La Sarda Garnacha.

DIY SMOKED RIBS

Texas pit master TIM RATTRAY of The Granary in San Antonio reveals how to make tender, crusty, smoky ribs using an ordinary grill, wood chips and a 20-pound bag of hardwood lump charcoal.

Smoked St. Louis-Style Ribs

Active 2 hr; Total 7 hr 15 min; Serves 6 to 8

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper

1¹/₂ tsp. chile powder

1¹/₂ tsp. cinnamon

1¹/₂ tsp. ground cumin

1¹/₂ tsp. ground dark-roast coffee

Kosher salt

2 racks St. Louis-cut pork ribs (6 lbs.), membranes removed from the undersides

7 cups oak chips, soaked in water for 1 hour and drained

1. In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar with the pepper, chile powder, cinnamon, cumin, coffee and ¹/₃ cup of salt. Season the ribs all over with salt, then rub both racks with 1 cup of the spice mix.

2. Light a hardwood charcoal fire and set up the grill for indirect cooking; you’ll need to replenish the coals periodically to maintain the heat. Close the grill and, using the air vents to control the fire, bring the internal temperature to 250°.

3. Scatter 2 cups of the oak chips over the hot coals. Set the ribs meat side up on the grill opposite the coals. Close the grill and smoke the ribs at 250° to 275° for 2 hours, adding coals as necessary to maintain the heat; add another 2 cups of the oak chips to the hot coals after the first hour.

4. Transfer the ribs to a baking sheet. Layer two 36-inch sheets of heavy-duty foil on a work surface and set a rack of ribs in the center, meat side up; wrap tightly in the foil. Repeat with 2 more layers of foil and the remaining rack of ribs. Set the rib packets meat side up on the grill opposite the coals. Close the grill and cook the ribs at 250° to 275° for 2 hours longer, adding coals as necessary to maintain the heat.

5. Transfer the rib packets to a baking sheet, then unwrap the ribs, discarding the foil. Scatter 2 cups of the oak chips over the hot coals. Return the ribs meat side up to the grill opposite the coals. Close the grill and smoke the ribs at 250° to 275° until very tender, 1 hour. Add coals as necessary to maintain the heat and scatter the remaining 1 cup of oak chips on the hot coals halfway through smoking.

6. Transfer the ribs to a carving board and let rest for 15 minutes. Cut and serve.

MAKE AHEAD The spice mix can be stored in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

WINE Smoky, bold Washington state Syrah: 2012 Owen Roe Ex Umbris.

STEP-BY-STEP

MAKE THE SPICE MIX Whisk brown sugar, salt, pepper, coffee and spices.

GET THE SMOKE GOING Lay oak chips over hot coals on one side of the grill.

STEAM THE RIBS Wrap the ribs in foil and continue to cook on the grill.

APPLY THE RUB Sprinkle ribs with the spice mix and rub it into the meat.

SMOKE THE RIBS Set the ribs on the grill opposite the heat. Cover and cook.

PERFECT THE CRUST Unwrap the ribs and cook until they’re crusty all over.

GLAZED AGRODOLCE RIBS

Glazed Agrodolce Ribs

Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 45 min; Serves 8

Two 4-lb. racks of pork spareribs, membranes removed

1¹/₂ Tbsp. fennel seeds, crushed

1¹/₂ Tbsp. finely chopped thyme

2 tsp. crushed red pepper

2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 small red onion, coarsely grated

3 garlic cloves, finely grated

1 cup balsamic vinegar

¹/₄ cup white distilled vinegar

1 cup ketchup

³/₄ cup packed light brown sugar

1. Preheat the oven to 325°. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with foil and set the ribs on them, meaty side up. In a mortar, crush the fennel seeds with the thyme, crushed red pepper, rosemary, 1¹/₂ tablespoons salt and 2 teaspoons black pepper. Rub the spice mix all over the ribs and roast for about 2 hours, until the meat is tender.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onion, garlic and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the onion is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add both vinegars along with the ketchup and brown sugar and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the sauce is thick and reduced to 2 cups, 15 minutes.

3. Remove the ribs from the oven and turn on the broiler. Brush the underside of the racks with some of the sauce. Broil 1 sheet of ribs 8 inches from the heat until browned. Flip the ribs and repeat on the other side. Move the ribs to the bottom rack of the oven to keep warm while you glaze the rest.

4. Transfer the racks to a work surface. Cut in between the bones to form individual ribs and mound on a platter. Pass the remaining sauce at the table. —Justin Chapple

MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week.

WINE Spiced, fruit-forward Sicilian red: 2012 Manenti Nero d’Avola.

Country-Style Pork Ribs with Tomato Salad and Garlic Toast

Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 10 min Serves 4 to 6

Inspired by humble early-1900s cooking, chef Andrea Reusing of The Durham Hotel in North Carolina uses flavorful pork ribs for this weeknight dish. She’s “almost wary” of telling people to cook the inexpensive cut, for fear it will become too popular and pricey.

2 lbs. country-style boneless pork ribs (about 4 ribs)

1¹/₂ tsp. celery seeds

Kosher salt and pepper

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

Three 1-inch-thick slices of country bread, halved crosswise

2 garlic cloves, 1 halved and 1 minced

1 small Fresno or red jalapeño chile, stemmed and minced

1 lb. tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces

8 light-green celery ribs with leaves, thinly sliced on the diagonal (2 cups)

1. Season the pork with the celery seeds, salt and pepper. Let stand for 30 minutes.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan and brush with oil. Grill the pork over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until lightly charred all over and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 140°, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a work surface and let rest for 5 minutes, then slice the meat against the grain.

3. Meanwhile, brush the bread with oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over moderately high heat, turning, until lightly charred on both sides, about 2 minutes. Rub with the halved garlic clove.

4. In a large bowl, whisk the ¹/₄ cup of oil with the chile and minced garlic. Add the tomatoes and celery and toss to coat. Season the salad with salt and pepper.

5. Transfer the garlic toasts to plates, top with the tomato salad and sliced pork and serve. —Andrea Reusing

WINE Vibrant and medium-bodied Chianti Classico: 2012 Isole e Olena.

Sweet-and-Spicy Spareribs with Korean Barbecue Sauce

Active 30 min; Total 2 hr 30 min; Serves 10

Top Chef Season 12 winner Mei Lin slow-roasts these ribs in the oven, then glazes them on the grill with a sweet and spicy sauce spiked with gochujang (Korean chile paste). She also stirs the sauce into pulled pork, serves it with french fries instead of ketchup and mixes it with melted butter to toss with fried chicken.

1 cup gochujang (see Note)

¹/₂ cup hoisin sauce

¹/₂ cup ketchup

¹/₂ cup honey

¹/₂ cup soy sauce

¹/₂ cup sake

2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar

2 Tbsp. finely grated fresh ginger

1 Tbsp. finely grated garlic

2 Tbsp. ground white pepper

3 racks pork spareribs (about 8 lbs.), membranes removed

Kosher salt

1. Preheat the oven to 325°. In a medium bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients except the ribs and salt. Layer 2 long sheets of heavy-duty foil on a work surface and set 1 rack of ribs in the center, meaty side up. Brush with ³/₄cup of the sauce and wrap tightly in the foil. Repeat with the remaining 2 racks of ribs. Transfer the foil packets to 2 large rimmed baking sheets and bake the ribs until tender, about 2 hours.

2. Unwrap the racks and transfer to a work surface. Cut them into 3- or 4-rib sections.

3. Light a grill. Season the ribs with salt and grill over high heat, brushing with the remaining sauce and turning occasionally, until glazed and lightly charred in spots, about 4 minutes. Cut into individual ribs if desired. Transfer to a platter and serve. —Mei Lin

NOTE Gochujang is available at Asian markets, Whole Foods and amazon.com.

MAKE AHEAD The ribs can be prepared through Step 1 and refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before grilling.

WINE Dark, cherry-inflected Argentinean Malbec: 2013 BenMarco.

PORK BELLY WITH RHUBARB GLAZE

Chef Zak Pelaccio and his wife, Jori Jayne Emde (far right), host a garden-inspired cookout in New York’s Hudson Valley. On the grill: juicy pork belly slicked with a tangy rhubarb glaze.

Pork Belly with Rhubarb Glaze

Active 30 min; Total 4 hr 45 min plus 24 hr brining; Serves 8

After brining pork belly, Hudson Valley chef Zakary Pelaccio slow-roasts the meat until it’s tender and crisp, brushing it with a sweet and tangy rhubarb glaze. You will need a juicer to make the glaze here.

PORK BELLY

1 gallon water

1 onion, thinly sliced

1 head of garlic, halved crosswise

3 rosemary sprigs

3 Tbsp. kosher salt

¹/₂ cup coriander seeds

2 Tbsp. white peppercorns

2 Tbsp. fennel seeds

One 5-lb. pork belly

Nasturtium leaves and flowers, for garnish (optional)

GLAZE

2 lbs. rhubarb, juiced (2¹/₄ cups)

¹/₂ cup pure maple syrup

¹/₄ cup Asian fish sauce

1 Tbsp. chile powder

1. Brine the pork belly In a large pot, combine all of the ingredients except the pork; simmer, partially covered, over low heat for 30 minutes. Let cool to room temperature. Add the pork to the brine and leave at room temperature for 1 hour, then cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Bring to room temperature for 1 hour before cooking.

2. Make the glaze In a small saucepan, cook the rhubarb juice over moderate heat until reduced to 1 cup, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the maple syrup and cook until slightly thickened, 5 minutes. Stir in the fish sauce and chile powder; let cool.

3. Light a grill and set it up for indirect cooking. Remove the pork belly from the brine and score the skin in a crosshatch pattern. Set the pork on the grill, fat side up, opposite the heat source. Cover and grill at 325° for 2¹/₂ to 3 hours, until very tender; brush with the glaze during the last 45 minutes of grilling. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let rest for 15 minutes. Thinly slice, garnish and serve. —Zakary Pelaccio

WINE Juicy, red cherry-inflected Sicilian rosé: 2014 Cornelissen Susucaru.

Salsa Verde Chicharrón Tacos

Total 30 min; Makes 6

Famed Mexican chef Enrique Olvera turns fried pork rinds into an unusual and delicious taco filling by simmering them in salsa verde. Pork rinds crumbled on top add crunch.

¹/₄ lb. thick, crisp chicharrones, plus crushed chicharrones for garnish (see Note)

1¹/₂ cups Salsa Verde (recipe follows)

Kosher salt

6 warm 8-inch Corn Tortillas (recipe follows) or fresh corn tortillas

Sour cream and purslane or watercress, for serving

In a large skillet, combine the chicharrones with ¹/₃ cup water and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the chicharrones start to soften and the water is absorbed, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the salsa verde and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the chicharrones are coated and the salsa is thick, about 5 minutes. Season with salt. Serve in the corn tortillas, topped with sour cream, purslane and crushed chicharrones. —Enrique Olvera

NOTE Look for good-quality chicharrones, preferably with a little meat attached, at Mexican markets.

WINE Bright, citrusy white: 2014 Grooner Grüner Veltliner.

SALSA VERDE

Active 10 min; Total 30 min plus cooling Makes 3 cups

Olvera’s garlicky tomatillo salsa is great on everything from tacos and enchiladas to seafood, roast chicken and pork.

1¹/₂ lbs. tomatillos, husked and rinsed

2 cups water

¹/₂ medium white onion, chopped

3 large garlic cloves, minced

2 large scallions, chopped

¹/₂ cup chopped cilantro

¹/₄ cup chopped epazote or 1 Tbsp. chopped oregano

1 tsp. cumin seeds

Fine sea salt

Combine all the ingredients except the salt in a large saucepan and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of salt and simmer over moderate heat until the onion is tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and coarsely mash the salsa with a potato masher. Let cool completely, season with salt and serve. —EO

MAKE AHEAD The salsa can be refrigerated for up to 5 days.

CORN TORTILLAS

Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 40 min Makes twelve 5-inch or six 8-inch tortillas

Homemade tortillas have exceptional corn flavor and a tender texture.

1³/₄ cups masa harina, preferably Bob’s Red Mill

1. In a medium bowl, mix the masa with 1¹/₄ cups of water until a dough forms. Cover and let stand for 1 hour.

2. Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces (or 6 pieces for 8-inch tortillas) and roll each piece into a ball. Line a tortilla press with parchment paper or plastic wrap and press the 12 balls of dough into 5-inch tortillas. If making 8-inch tortillas, roll them out with a rolling pin.

3. Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet. Working in batches, cook the tortillas over moderate heat, turning, until cooked through, about 6 minutes. —EO

MAKE AHEAD The tortillas can be refrigerated for 2 days or frozen for 2 weeks.

Crispy Pork Belly Tacos with Pico de Gallo

Active 1 hr; Total 4 hr; Serves 4

BRAISED PORK BELLY

One 2-lb. piece of meaty pork belly

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup melted lard or shortening

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 white onion, coarsely chopped

2 morita chiles (see Note)

2 tsp. kosher salt

PICO DE GALLO

¹/₂ lb. cherry tomatoes, finely chopped

4 oz. tomatillos—husked, rinsed and finely chopped (about ³/₄ cup)

¹/₂ small red onion, finely chopped

1 chile de árbol, crumbled

¹/₄ cup Mexican beer, such as Corona

¹/₄ cup fresh lime juice

Kosher salt

TACOS

1 Tbsp. canola oil

12 warm 5-inch Corn Tortillas (p. 182) or fresh corn tortillas

Lime wedges, for serving

1. Braise the pork belly Preheat the oven to 250°. In a large ovenproof saucepan, combine all of the ingredients and bring to a simmer over moderate heat. Cover, transfer to the oven and braise the pork until very tender, about 3 hours. Transfer the pork to a plate to cool slightly; discard the braising liquid.

2. Make the pico de gallo In a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the salt. Season with salt and mix well.

3. Make the tacos In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the canola oil. Add the pork belly, skin side down, and weigh it down with another heavy skillet. Cook over moderately low heat until golden and crisp, about 10 minutes. Transfer the pork, skin side up, to a cutting board and let cool slightly. Slice across the grain ¹/₄ inch thick, then halve the slices crosswise. Top each tortilla with a few pieces of pork belly and a little pico de gallo and serve warm. —Enrique Olvera

NOTE Morita chiles are small, dried smoked chiles; they’re a little spicier than chipotles, which can be substituted here.

BEER Ice-cold Mexican lager: Bohemia.

Pork, Potato and Apple Pie

Active 1 hr 45 min; Total 3 hr 45 min plus cooling; Serves 8

In her take on a traditional English pub meat pie, blogger Marte Marie Forsberg fills a flaky double crust with potatoes, apple and two kinds of pork: tender ale-braised pork shoulder and chorizo.

PASTRY

¹/₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. lard or vegetable shortening

¹/₄ cup plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard

4¹/₂ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1 Tbsp. kosher salt

FILLING

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

2 Tbsp. canola oil

1 lb. trimmed boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch pieces

Kosher salt and pepper

2 medium onions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, sliced

One 12-oz. bottle pale ale

1¹/₂ cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth

2 oz. Spanish chorizo, cut into ¹/₄-inch dice

2 thyme sprigs

1 sage sprig

2 lbs. red potatoes, peeled and sliced ¹/₄ inch thick

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled and cut into ¹/₂-inch pieces

1 large egg beaten with 1 tsp. water

1. Make the pastry In a medium saucepan, combine the lard, butter and mustard with 1¹/₂ cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer over moderate heat until the butter and lard are melted, 3 minutes. In a large bowl, whisk the 4¹/₂cups of flour with the salt. Stir in the lard mixture until a shaggy dough forms, then turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes. Cut the dough in half and shape into disks. Wrap the disks in plastic and refrigerate until well chilled, about 2 hours.

2. Make the filling In a large saucepan, melt the butter in the oil. Season the pork with salt and pepper, add to the saucepan and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned, about 8 minutes. Add the onions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the ale, stock, chorizo, thyme and sage and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the pork is tender, about 1 hour. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a bowl. Discard the thyme and sage sprigs.

3. In a medium saucepan, cover the potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Add a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat until just tender, about 8 minutes. Drain well. In a bowl, mash one-quarter of the potatoes with a fork. Stir the mashed potatoes into the braising liquid and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to moderate and simmer until reduced to 2 cups, about 7 minutes. Return the pork to the saucepan and season the filling with salt and pepper. Let cool completely.

4. Preheat the oven to 400°. On a floured work surface, roll out 1 disk of dough to a 12-inch round, a scant ¹/₄ inch thick. Ease the dough into a 10-inch cast-iron skillet and up the side. Roll out the second disk of dough to a 12-inch round. Transfer to a wax paper-lined baking sheet and refrigerate. Spread half of the sliced potatoes in the skillet in an even layer. Cover with half of the pork filling and top with half of the apples. Repeat the layering with the remaining potatoes, pork filling and apples. Cover with the top crust and trim the overhang to 1 inch. Press the crust rims together, pinch to seal and tuck the dough into the skillet.

5. Brush the pie with the beaten egg and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cut a hole or 4 small slits in the top to vent the steam. Bake in the center of the oven for 30 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 375° and bake the pie for 40 to 45 minutes longer, until the juices are bubbling and the crust is golden brown. Transfer the skillet to a rack and let the pie cool for at least 30 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve. —Marte Marie Forsberg

WINE Earthy, herbal red: 2012 Russiz Superiore Cabernet Franc.

Cheater Chorizo Burgers

Total 30 min; Serves 4

1¹/₂ lbs. ground pork

2¹/₂ Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

1 Tbsp. hot paprika

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 tsp. chile powder

1 tsp. ground cumin

1 tsp. dried oregano

Kosher salt and pepper

4 brioche hamburger buns, split and toasted

Ketchup, Bibb lettuce and sliced yellow tomato, for serving

1. In a bowl, using a fork, gently stir the pork with the vinegar, paprika, garlic, chile powder, cumin, oregano, 1 teaspoon of salt and ³/₄ teaspoon of pepper. Using 2 lids from 1-quart takeout containers, press the mixture into 4 patties. Transfer to a plate.

2. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Season the patties lightly with salt and pepper and grill over moderately high heat, turning once, until cooked through, about 8 minutes. Transfer the burgers to the buns, top with ketchup, lettuce and tomato and serve. —Justin Chapple

Double-Pea Sauté with Ground Pork

Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

2 Tbsp. canola oil

¹/₂ lb. ground pork

2 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger

2 Tbsp. minced garlic

¹/₂ lb. snap peas

¹/₂ lb. fresh shelled or thawed frozen peas

2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 cup chopped basil

Kosher salt and pepper

In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil. Add the pork, ginger and garlic and stir-fry over moderately high heat until the pork is browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in the snap peas and shelled peas and stir-fry until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and basil, season with salt and pepper and serve. —Kay Chun

WINE Medium-bodied, herb-scented white: 2014 Dürnberg Alte Reben Grüner Veltliner.

Grilled Mushrooms and Sausages with Pimentón Vinaigrette

Total 40 min; Serves 6

Griddled wild mushrooms are the stars of this Catalan-inspired dish dressed with a smoky, garlicky vinaigrette.

¹/₂ cup plus 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing

2 lbs. mixed wild mushrooms, such as hen-of-the-woods, cremini and chanterelles, cut into large pieces

Kosher salt and pepper

1¹/₂ lbs. mixed sausages, such as soft Spanish chorizo and Italian pork sausage

3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar

3 garlic cloves, minced

1¹/₂ tsp. pimentón

4 oz. frisée, torn into large pieces (4 cups)

Crusty bread, for serving

1. Heat a griddle or 2 large cast-iron skillets and lightly brush with olive oil. In a large bowl, toss the mushrooms with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cook the mushrooms and sausages on the griddle over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until golden and cooked through, about 10 minutes for the mushrooms and 10 to 15 minutes for the sausages.

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the remaining ¹/₂ cup of olive oil with the vinegar, garlic and pimentón. Season the vinaigrette with salt and pepper.

3. Transfer the cooked mushrooms to the large bowl. Add the frisée and ¹/₄ cup of the pimentón vinaigrette and toss to coat. Mound the salad on a platter, arrange the sausages alongside and spoon ¹/₄ cup of the vinaigrette on top. Serve with crusty bread, passing the remaining vinaigrette at the table. —Kay Chun

WINE Crisp, berry-inflected Spanish sparkling rosé: 2012 Raventós i Blanc De Nit.

Stewed Sweet Sausages in Fennel-Tomato Sauce

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 8

A big pot of simmering red sauce makes New York City chef April Bloomfield think of the home kitchen of her former boss Ruth Rogers, of London’s River Café. This is Bloomfield’s version of the sauce, with sausage and large pieces of fresh fennel. “I just love slow-cooked fennel,” she says. “It gives the dish a nice, soft creaminess with the slightly bouncy sausage.”

¹/₄ cup extra-virgin olive oil

12 sweet Italian sausages (4¹/₂ lbs.)

3 fennel bulbs—trimmed, each bulb cut into 8 wedges, fronds chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

¹/₂ tsp. fennel seeds, crushed

Kosher salt

One 28-oz. can San Marzano whole tomatoes, crushed by hand, juices reserved

1 cup dry white wine

3 pequin chiles (see Note) or 2 chiles de árbol

Creamy polenta, for serving

1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil. Add half of the sausages and cook over moderate heat, turning, until browned all over, 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate; repeat with the remaining sausages.

2. Add the fennel wedges to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, garlic, fennel seeds and 1 teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring, until the fennel is lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the wine and chiles. Tuck the sausages into the sauce, cover and cook over low heat for 15 minutes. Uncover and simmer until the sausages are cooked through and the sauce is thickened, about 45 minutes longer. Garnish the stew with fennel fronds and serve over polenta. —April Bloomfield

NOTE Small, spicy dried red Mexican pequin chiles are available at Latin American markets and specialty food stores.

WINE Vivid Sicilian red: 2013 Tami Frappato.

Meatballs in Tomato Sauce

Active 1 hr 30 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 4 to 6

Daniel Holzman of New York City’s Meatball Shop simmers his meatballs in the tomato sauce without searing them first. “Searing creates a lot of flavor, but you lose a certain subtlety,” he says.

TOMATO SAUCE

¹/₂ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, coarsely chopped (1 cup)

2 carrots, sliced ³/₄ inch thick (³/₄ cup)

3 large garlic cloves, crushed

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 bay leaf

6 oregano sprigs

Two 28-oz. cans whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes with their juices, crushed by hand

Pinch of crushed red pepper

Kosher salt

MEATBALLS

³/₄ lb. ground pork

³/₄ lb. ground chuck

³/₄ lb. ground veal

¹/₂ cup Italian-style dry breadcrumbs (2¹/₂ oz.)

¹/₄ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese (1 oz.)

2 tsp. kosher salt

2 large eggs

¹/₂ cup minced onion

¹/₂ cup chopped parsley

1 Tbsp. chopped oregano

¹/₄ tsp. crushed red pepper

¹/₂ tsp. ground fennel

Freshly grated Grana Padano cheese, for serving

1. Make the tomato sauce In a large ovenproof saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, carrots and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste and cook until lightly caramelized, about 3 minutes. Add the bay leaf, oregano, tomatoes and crushed red pepper and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 15 minutes. Season with salt and keep at a bare simmer.

2. Meanwhile, make the meatballs Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large bowl, combine all of the ingredients except the Grana Padano and mix by hand until well incorporated. Using a 1¹/₂-ounce ice cream scoop (3 tablespoons), scoop 24 meatballs (1¹/₂ inches in diameter) and roll into neat balls.

3. Add the meatballs to the simmering tomato sauce and bring to a boil. Braise in the oven until firm and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Discard the bay leaf and oregano sprigs. Serve the meatballs and sauce with Grana Padano on the side. —Daniel Holzman

WINE Concentrated, medium-bodied Italian red: 2013 Giuseppe Cortese Langhe Nebbiolo.

Quinoa-Pork Meatballs

Active 20 min; Total 50 min; Serves 4

1/3 cup black or white quinoa, rinsed and drained

1 lb. ground pork

2 large eggs, beaten

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 tsp. pepper

¹/₂ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

2 Tbsp. canola oil

2 cups jarred marinara sauce

3 basil sprigs

1. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook the quinoa until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and return the quinoa to the pan. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes; fluff with a fork. Spread the quinoa on a baking sheet and let cool to room temperature.

2. In a large bowl, combine the quinoa, pork, eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Mix well and form into 12 meatballs.

3. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil. Add the meatballs and cook over moderate heat, turning, until browned, about 8 minutes. Stir in the marinara sauce and basil and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat until the meatballs are cooked through, 7 to 8 minutes, then serve. —Kay Chun

MAKE AHEAD The meatballs can be prepared through Step 2 and refrigerated for up to 4 hours.

WINE Earthy, medium-bodied red: 2010 Au Bon Climat Los Alamos Pinot Noir.

Pork-and-Ricotta Meatballs in Parmesan Broth

Active 30 min; Total 50 min; Serves 6

The meatballs in this fast and easy dish from F&W’s Kay Chun are incredibly tender thanks to a generous amount of fresh ricotta mixed with the meat.

1 cup fresh ricotta (8 oz.)

¹/₄ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish

1 large egg

¹/₂ cup dry breadcrumbs

¹/₂ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg

Kosher salt and pepper

1¹/₄ lbs. ground pork

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 quart low-sodium chicken broth

One 3-by-1-inch piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 cup thawed frozen peas

2 cups baby spinach

Egg noodles, for serving

1. In a large bowl, stir the ricotta and ¹/₄ cup of grated Parmigiano with the egg, breadcrumbs, nutmeg, 1 teaspoon salt, ¹/₂ teaspoon pepper and ¹/₄ cup of water. Add the pork and combine. Form into 12 meatballs.

2. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the olive oil. Add the meatballs and cook over moderate heat, turning, until golden all over, about 10 minutes. Stir in the broth and the piece of cheese. Cover and simmer gently over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the meatballs are cooked through and the broth is slightly reduced, about 20 minutes. Stir in the peas and spinach, season with salt and pepper and simmer until the peas are warmed through.

3. In shallow bowls, spoon the meatballs and broth over egg noodles. Garnish with grated Parmigiano and serve. —Kay Chun

WINE Rich, yellow apple-scented Chardonnay: 2013 Banshee.