PASTA & NOODLES - Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin

Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)

PASTA & NOODLES

Spaghetti with Fresh Tomato Pesto

imag Total 25 min; Serves 6 to 8

Debi Mazar and her husband, Gabriele Corcos, hosts of the Cooking Channel’s show Extra Virgin, spend summers at their rustic villa in Tuscany. “We don’t have a TV, so most of the fun happens in the garden,” says Corcos. They turn their meaty plum tomatoes into a rich uncooked sauce.

11/2 lbs. plum tomatoes

1/2 cup pine nuts (3 oz.)

3 small garlic cloves, crushed

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus shavings for garnish

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Kosher salt and pepper

1 lb. spaghetti

Basil leaves, for garnish

1. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Using a sharp paring knife, mark an X on the bottom of each tomato. Add the tomatoes to the saucepan and blanch just until the skins start to peel, about 30 seconds. Transfer the tomatoes to the ice bath to cool. Peel and transfer to a blender.

2. In a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over moderately low heat, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add to the tomatoes in the blender, along with the garlic, 1/2 cup of grated cheese and 1/3 cup of olive oil; puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

3. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente; drain and transfer to a large bowl. Add the tomato sauce and toss to coat evenly. Drizzle the pasta with olive oil, garnish with cheese shavings and basil leaves and serve. —Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos

MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated overnight. Bring to room temperature before tossing with the spaghetti.

WINE Bright, fruity Italian red: 2013 Argiano Rosso di Montalcino.

Spaghetti with Fresh Zucchini Pesto

Total 50 min; Serves 6

3/4 cup blanched almonds (41/2 oz.)

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

Pinch of crushed red pepper

3 medium zucchini (11/2 lbs.), half of 1 zucchini cut into matchsticks and the remainder chopped into 1/2-inch pieces

Kosher salt and black pepper

1 lb. spaghetti

2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

11/2 cups freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese (4 oz.), plus more for serving

1/2 cup chopped mint, plus more for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and toast for about 8 minutes, until golden. Let cool, then coarsely chop. Reserve 1/4 cup for garnish.

2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, 1 minute. Add the chopped zucchini, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden, about 10 minutes. Scrape the zucchini into a food processor and add the remaining 1/2 cup of chopped almonds; pulse to combine. With the machine on, slowly add the remaining 6 tablespoons of oil until combined but still slightly chunky. Season the pesto with salt and pepper.

3. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain. Off the heat, return the pasta to the hot pot and add the reserved pasta water, the pesto, zucchini matchsticks, lemon zest, 11/2 cups of cheese and 1/2 cup of mint. Stir until well combined and saucy. Transfer the pasta to bowls. Garnish with mint and the reserved almonds. Serve, passing cheese at the table. —Katie Parla

WINE Fragrant, apple-scented northern Italian white: 2014 Tiefenbrunner Pinot Bianco.

Zucchini Confetti Pasta with Dill and Walnuts

imag Total 25 min; Serves 4

Grated zucchini sautéed with anchovies and garlic makes an excellent, quick spaghetti sauce.

1/2 lb. spaghetti

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

3 medium zucchini, grated on the large holes of a box grater and squeezed dry

3 anchovies packed in oil, drained

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Kosher salt and pepper

Chopped dill and toasted chopped walnuts, for garnish

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain.

2. Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the zucchini, anchovies and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the zucchini is tender and the anchovies have dissolved, about 5 minutes. Stir in the spaghetti, lemon juice and cheese and season with salt and pepper. Serve, garnished with chopped dill and toasted chopped walnuts. —Kay Chun

WINE Citrusy Chilean Sauvignon Blanc: 2014 Leyda.

Spaghetti with Radish-Greens Pesto

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

In place of the radish tops here, you can use any other slightly pungent greens, such as watercress, arugula or mustard.

2 garlic cloves, crushed

Greens from 1 big bunch of radishes (8 loosely packed cups), chopped

1/4 cup parsley leaves

3/4 cup roasted salted pumpkin seeds (3 oz.), plus more for garnish

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish

Kosher salt and pepper

12 oz. spaghetti

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1. In a food processor, combine the garlic, greens, parsley leaves and the 3/4 cup of pumpkin seeds; pulse until finely chopped. With the machine on, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Stir in the 1 cup of cheese. Season with salt and pepper.

2. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the pasta water. Return the pasta to the pot. Add the pesto, lemon juice and 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Season with salt and pepper and toss over low heat until coated, about 2 minutes; add more pasta water if a thinner consistency is desired.

3. Transfer the pasta to bowls and garnish with pumpkin seeds and cheese. —Kay Chun

WINE Lively, medium-bodied white: 2014 Frenzy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

Ricotta Cavatelli with Nut Ragout

Active 1 hr 45 min; Total 3 hr 15 min Serves 6

Chef Philip Krajeck makes incredibly tender pasta at Rolf and Daughters in Nashville, but if you don’t want to follow his recipe, you can substitute store-bought fresh cavatelli or gnocchi instead. Toasted Southern nuts replace meat in the richly flavored ragout.

RAGOUT

11/4 cups pecans, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup raw peanuts, coarsely chopped

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1/3 cup sliced garlic

2 thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves

1 rosemary sprig

1/4 cup dry white wine

One 28-oz. can plus one 15-oz. can crushed tomatoes

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

Kosher salt and pepper

CAVATELLI

21/4 cups Italian 00 flour (available at specialty food stores)

1 cup fresh ricotta cheese

1 large egg

11/2 tsp. kosher salt

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

1. Make the ragout Preheat the oven to 300°. Shake the nuts in a fine sieve to remove any fine crumbs. In a large ovenproof saucepan, heat the oil. Add the garlic and stir over moderate heat until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add the nuts and cook, stirring, until well toasted, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme, bay leaves, rosemary and wine and cook until the wine is evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the 28 ounces of tomatoes and bring to a boil. Partially cover the ragout and bake for about 11/2 hours, until thickened and the nuts are tender.

2. Meanwhile, make the cavatelli In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, combine the flour with the ricotta, egg and salt and beat at medium speed until a dough just starts to form, about 1 minute. Attach the dough hook and beat at medium speed until a ball forms, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and knead until smooth. Wrap in plastic and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

3. Cut the dough into 4 pieces. Work with 1 piece at a time; cover the remaining pieces with plastic wrap. On an unfloured work surface, roll the dough into a 1/2-inch-thick rope. Cut the rope into 1/4-inch pieces. Roll each piece into a 11/2-inch-long strip. Using the front side of a table knife, press each strip of dough against the work surface, pulling the knife toward you to form a curling strip. Transfer to a lightly floured baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.

4. Stir the 15 ounces of tomatoes into the saucepan and bring the ragout to a simmer over moderately low heat. Stir in the butter and season with salt and pepper. Discard the thyme, bay leaves and rosemary.

5. In a saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the cavatelli until al dente, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Toss the cavatelli with the reserved cooking water and half of the nut ragout (reserve the remaining ragout for another dish). Serve with the cheese. —Philip Krajeck

MAKE AHEAD The ragout can be refrigerated for 5 days or frozen for 1 month.

WINE Juicy, red-berried Sangiovese: 2012 Col d’Orcia Rosso di Montalcino.

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PAPPARDELLE WITH SUMMER SQUASH AND ARUGULA-WALNUT PESTO

Pappardelle with Summer Squash and Arugula-Walnut Pesto

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4 to 6

This recipe is a fantastic showcase for ultrafresh summer squash. F&W’s Kay Chun cuts zucchini and yellow squash lengthwise into ribbons on a mandoline, then tosses them with hot pasta so they just barely cook.

3/4 cup walnut halves

4 cups packed arugula leaves (4 oz.)

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1/2 tsp. finely grated garlic

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus shavings for garnish

Kosher salt and pepper

12 oz. pappardelle

3 firm, fresh medium zucchini and/or yellow squash (11/4 lbs.), very thinly sliced lengthwise on a mandoline

3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1. In a small skillet, toast the walnuts over moderately low heat until golden, about 5 minutes. Finely chop 1/2 cup of the walnuts; coarsely chop the rest for garnish.

2. In a food processor, pulse 2 cups of the arugula until finely chopped; scrape into a large bowl and stir in the 3/4 cup of olive oil, the garlic, grated cheese and finely chopped walnuts. Season the pesto with salt and pepper.

3. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pappardelle until al dente. Drain the pasta and add to the pesto in the bowl. Add the zucchini and toss to evenly coat. Stir in the lemon juice and the remaining 2 cups of arugula and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the pasta to a platter, drizzle with olive oil and garnish with the coarsely chopped walnuts and cheese shavings. —Kay Chun

WINE Ripe California Chardonnay: 2013 Buehler Russian River.

Spaghetti with Brussels Sprout and Sausage Breadcrumb Topping

imag Total 20 min; Serves 2

Thinly sliced brussels sprouts are a quick-cooking alternative to broccoli rabe in this superfast pasta with sausage. The panko mixed in with the spaghetti adds a fabulous crunch.

1/2 lb. spaghetti

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1/2 lb. brussels sprouts, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)

1/2 lb. loose pork sausage

1 cup panko

2 Tbsp. snipped chives

Kosher salt and pepper

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente.

2. Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet, heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil. Add the brussels sprouts and sausage and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the sausage is browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in the panko and cook until crisp, 3 minutes. Stir in the chives and season with salt and pepper.

3. Drain the spaghetti and transfer to a bowl. Top with the brussels sprout breadcrumbs, drizzle with olive oil and serve with lemon wedges. —Kay Chun

WINE Juicy, light-bodied Italian red: 2012 Bartolo Mascarello Dolcetto d’Alba.

Spaghetti with Clams and Braised Greens

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

8 garlic cloves, crushed

4 dozen littleneck clams

2 cups dry white wine

2 jarred roasted red peppers, drained

1 tsp. crushed red pepper

1 lb. Swiss chard or collard greens, stemmed and chopped (8 cups)

Kosher salt and pepper

1/2 lb. spaghetti

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cubed and chilled

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish

1. In a large pot, heat 1/4 cup of the oil. Add half of the garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the clams. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes; as the clams open, transfer them to a baking sheet. Discard any unopened clams. Strain the cooking liquid through a sieve into a blender. Add the roasted peppers and puree until smooth.

2. Wash out the pot, then heat the remaining 1/4 cup of oil in it. Add the remaining garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the crushed red pepper and Swiss chard in batches until the chard is just wilted, about 3 minutes. Stir in the roasted pepper broth and season with salt and pepper.

3. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente; drain. Add the pasta to the Swiss chard mixture along with the butter, lemon zest, lemon juice and the 1/2 cup of grated cheese. Add the clams and toss to heat through. Transfer the pasta and broth to shallow bowls, garnish with grated cheese and serve. —Ashley Christensen

WINE Ripe, lemony Sauvignon Blanc: 2014 Joel Gott.

Spicy Fideos with Mussels and Calamari

Total 50 min; Serves 4

Catalan cooks brown short dry noodles called fideos in oil, then simmer them with a bit of stock and fresh seafood. F&W’s Kay Chun adds an untraditional topping of parsley and crunchy almonds.

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup chopped marcona almonds

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 dried chiles de árbol, stemmed and crumbled

7 oz. fideos or angel hair pasta, broken into 1-inch lengths (2 cups)

Kosher salt and pepper

1 small tomato, diced

1 Tbsp. tomato paste

Pinch of saffron threads

1 cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth

One 8-oz. bottle clam juice

1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1/2 lb. cleaned calamari, bodies sliced 1/4 inch thick

1. In a small bowl, combine the parsley and almonds.

2. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole or paella pan, heat the oil. Add the shallot, garlic, chiles and fideos, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fideos are lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomato, tomato paste and saffron and cook, stirring, until the tomato paste is lightly caramelized, about 3 minutes. Stir in the stock and clam juice and bring to a simmer. Cook over moderate heat until the fideos are al dente, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir the mussels and calamari into the casserole, cover and cook over low heat until the mussels open, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Top with the parsley and almonds and serve. —Kay Chun

WINE Green apple-scented, dry sparkling wine: 2012 Raventós i Blanc L’Hereu.

Fettuccine with Shrimp

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

12 oz. fettuccine

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

8 scallions, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

3/4 cup dry white wine

2/3 cup mascarpone cheese

12 oz. cooked shrimp

6 oz. curly spinach leaves

Kosher salt and pepper

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain.

2. Wipe out the pot; melt the butter in it. Add the scallions and garlic and cook over moderately high heat until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine and simmer until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Stir in the mascarpone. Add the pasta and shrimp and cook, tossing, until the pasta is coated, 3 minutes longer. Stir in the spinach and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot. —Justin Chapple

WINE Lemon-zesty Vermentino: 2013 Prelius Vermentino.

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LINGUINE WITH CLAMS AND FENNEL

Linguine with Clams and Fennel

imag Total 40 min; Serves 4

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

3 leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced crosswise (3 cups)

12 oz. linguine

1/2 medium fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced (1/2 cup)

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 lbs. Manila clams, scrubbed

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup fish stock

4 tsp. neonata (see Note), sambal oelek or other chunky chile paste

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

Kosher salt and pepper

Torn basil leaves, for garnish

1. In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the leeks and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly golden, about 8 minutes. Transfer the leeks to a bowl.

2. In a saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the linguine until just al dente; drain.

3. Meanwhile, in the pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the fennel and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the fennel is softened, about 3 minutes. Add the clams, white wine and stock and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook until the clams open, 3 to 5 minutes; transfer the clams to a large bowl as they open. Remove the pot from the heat; discard any clams that don’t open. Reserve 12 whole clams in their shells; shell the remaining clams.

4. Bring the juices in the pot to a boil and stir in the linguine, neonata, clams and leeks. Add the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and toss until the pasta is coated and the juices are thickened. Stir in the lemon juice and half of the parsley; season with salt and pepper. Serve the pasta in shallow bowls garnished with basil, the remaining parsley and a drizzle of olive oil. —Erling Wu-Bower

NOTE Neonata is an Italian condiment made from salted fish and chiles. It’s available at Italian markets and from amazon.com.

WINE Crisp, lightly herbal Italian white: 2013 Punta Crena Ca da Rena Pigato.

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PENNE WITH CHICKEN AND PICKLED PEPPERS

Penne with Chicken and Pickled Peppers

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

12 oz. penne rigate

11/2 cups shredded cooked chicken

11/2 cups sliced mixed pickled peppers, drained

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1 cup basil leaves

1. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the penne until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water.

2. Wipe out the pot; add the chicken, peppers and oil. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until hot, 6 minutes. Add the penne and cooking water and cook, tossing, until hot, 3 minutes. Season with salt, stir in the basil and serve. —Justin Chapple

WINE Fresh, juicy, pear-scented Piedmontese white: 2013 Brovia Roero Arneis.

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ANGRY SHRIMP SPAGHETTINI

Angry Shrimp Spaghettini

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4

1 lb. spaghettini

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 lb. shelled and deveined large shrimp

1/2 cup panko

2 tsp. crushed red pepper

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

Kosher salt and black pepper

Chopped parsley, for garnish

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

2. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shrimp, panko, crushed red pepper, garlic and zest. Season with salt and pepper; cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the shrimp are just cooked through, 6 minutes.

3. Add the pasta and reserved cooking water to the saucepan and cook, tossing, until coated, about 2 minutes. Transfer to shallow bowls, garnish with chopped parsley and serve. —Justin Chapple

WINE Citrusy Pinot Grigio: 2014 Kris.

Spaghetti with Corn Carbonara and Crab

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4

This brilliant take on carbonara is from F&W Best New Chef 2015 Tim Maslow, of Ribelle in Boston. He uses pureed corn instead of egg or cheese to thicken the sauce and give it deep corn flavor.

7 ears of corn, shucked

1 lb. spaghetti

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1/4 lb. guanciale, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 medium shallots, minced

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice, plus finely grated zest for garnish

Kosher salt and pepper

1/2 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat

Extra-virgin olive oil and shichimi togarashi, for serving

1. On a work surface, cut the corn kernels off of the cobs; using the sharp side of the knife, scrape the pulp off the cobs. You should have 4 cups of kernels and pulp. Transfer the kernels and pulp to a blender and puree until smooth. Strain the puree through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids.

2. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Reserve 2 cups of the cooking water, then drain the pasta.

3. Wipe out the saucepan and melt the butter in it. Add the guanciale and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered, about 7 minutes. Add the shallots and garlic and cook, stirring, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the spaghetti, strained corn puree, 11/4 cups of the pasta cooking water and the lemon juice. Cook over moderate heat, tossing, until the sauce is thickened and creamy, 3 to 5 minutes; add more of the cooking water if necessary. Season the pasta with salt and pepper and very gently fold in the crab. Transfer to shallow bowls and drizzle with olive oil. Garnish with lemon zest and shichimi togarashi and serve right away. —Tim Maslow

MAKE AHEAD The strained corn puree can be refrigerated overnight.

WINE Tangy Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc: 2013 Puzelat-Bonhomme Touraine.

Spaghetti with Crab

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4

When she can, chef Nina Compton of New Orleans’s The Old No. 77 Hotel swaps in local Louisiana shrimp for the crabmeat in this otherwise Italian pasta.

12 oz. spaghetti

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup pine nuts

1/2 cup panko

Kosher salt

6 scallions, thinly sliced, plus more for garnish

5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper

11/2 cups clam juice or fish stock

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley

2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest

1/2 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over

1. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain the pasta well, then toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Wipe out the saucepan.

2. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, toast the pine nuts over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a work surface and chop.

3. In the same skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the panko and cook over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and season with salt.

4. In the large saucepan, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil. Add the 6 sliced scallions, the garlic and crushed red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the garlic is softened, about 3 minutes. Add the clam juice and bring to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook over moderately high heat, tossing, until most of the clam juice has been absorbed, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the parsley, lemon zest, pine nuts and remaining 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt. Toss well. Gently fold in the crabmeat. Transfer the pasta to shallow bowls and garnish with the panko and scallions. —Nina Compton

WINE Salty, lemon-inflected French white: 2014 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine.

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For this New Year’s Day lunch, chef Helene Henderson of L.A.’s Malibu Farm tosses orecchiette with black-eyed peas—a “lucky” ingredient.

Orecchiette with Bacon, Black-Eyed Peas and Spinach

imag Total 45 min; Serves 8

1/2 lb. bacon, frozen for 15 minutes and very thinly sliced crosswise

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper

1 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved

2 cups drained canned or thawed frozen black-eyed peas

2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt and black pepper

11/2 lbs. orecchiette

5 oz. baby spinach

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

1. In a medium skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring, until browned and crisp, about 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the skillet and heat the olive oil in it. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Scrape the garlic oil into a serving bowl. Add the tomatoes, black-eyed peas, vinegar and a generous pinch each of salt and black pepper to the bowl and toss well.

2. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the orecchiette until al dente. Drain well. Add the pasta and the spinach to the tomato mixture and toss until the spinach is just wilted. Season the pasta generously with salt and black pepper and toss again. Sprinkle the bacon on top and serve, passing cheese at the table. —Helene Henderson

WINE Earthy, berried Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir: 2012 Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills.

Spaghetti with Bacon, Capers and Mint

imag Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6

1 lb. spaghetti

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

1 onion, finely chopped

1/2 lb. slab bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 lb. cherry tomatoes, halved, seeds squeezed out

Kosher salt and pepper

1/3 cup salted capers, rinsed with hot water and drained

1/2 cup torn mint leaves

Shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving

1. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking water, then drain the pasta.

2. Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet, heat the 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until starting to soften, about 4 minutes. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon and onion are browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and a generous pinch of salt and simmer over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes start to soften, about 6 minutes. Stir in the capers and mint and season with salt and pepper.

3. Add the pasta and the reserved cooking water to the tomato sauce and toss over moderate heat for 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with oil and serve, passing cheese at the table. —Katie Quinn Davies

WINE Perfumed, light-bodied Italian red: 2013 Matteo Correggia Anthos.

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SPELT RIGATONI WITH CHICKEN LIVERS, LEEKS AND SAGE

Spelt Rigatoni with Chicken Livers, Leeks and Sage

imag Total 40 min; Serves 4 to 6

Marco Canora, the chef at Hearth in New York City, likes pasta made from spelt, an ancient strain of wheat, but any good-quality whole-wheat rigatoni will work. He also recommends buying livers from pastured chickens because they’re more nutritious than those from factory-farmed birds.

1 lb. spelt rigatoni

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

3 scallions, thinly sliced

2 leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

Fine sea salt and pepper

2 Tbsp. chopped sage

1 lb. chicken livers—trimmed, patted dry and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Lemon wedges, for serving

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the rigatoni until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water.

2. Meanwhile, in a large, deep skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the olive oil. Add the scallions, leeks and shallot and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the sage.

3. Increase the heat to high. Season the livers with salt and pepper and add them to the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until golden all over, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until evaporated, 1 minute.

4. Add the pasta, 1/4 cup of the reserved pasta water, 1/2 cup of the cheese and the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter to the livers and season with salt and pepper. Remove the skillet from the heat and toss the pasta. Add the remaining pasta water if necessary. Transfer the pasta to plates, top with the remaining 1/2 cup of cheese and serve with lemon wedges. —Marco Canora

WINE Minerally, fruit-forward Sicilian red: 2012 Di Giovanna Nerello Mascalese.

Pasta with Guanciale, Radicchio and Ricotta

imag Total 30 min; Serves 6

L.A. chef Nancy Silverton likes to use a little-known pasta called calamarata—which looks like thick squid rings—to catch the sauce, but any wide, tubular pasta is great.

1/2 lb. calamarata or other short, wide tubular pasta

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

3 medium red onions, cut into 8 wedges each

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

6 oz. guanciale or pancetta, cut into 1/4-inch dice

3/4 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1/4 small head of radicchio, torn into 2-inch pieces

1/3 cup fresh ricotta cheese

1/4 cup chopped walnuts

1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking water.

2. Meanwhile, in a large, straight-sided skillet, heat the 1/4 cup of olive oil. Add the onions, season with salt and toss to coat with the oil. Cook over high heat until the onions are just beginning to soften, about 1 minute. Stir in 3/4 cup of water and cook until the water is evaporated and the onions are just tender, about 6 minutes. Stir in the guanciale and cook, stirring, until the fat is rendered and the guanciale is lightly browned and crisp, about 7 minutes.

3. Carefully drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the skillet. Stir in the pasta along with the pecorino, radicchio and the reserved pasta water. Cook over high heat, stirring constantly, until hot, about 1 minute. Season the pasta with salt and pepper and top with dollops of the ricotta. Transfer the pasta to a large serving dish, sprinkle with the walnuts and top with a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately. —Nancy Silverton

WINE Lively Sangiovese-based Montefalco Rosso: 2010 Tabarrini.

Rigatoni all’Amatriciana

imag Total 30 min; Serves 6 to 8

Star chef Mario Batali doesn’t mess around with his Amatriciana, which is perfectly spicy and porky, with plenty of rich tomato flavor.

1 lb. rigatoni

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 lb. thick-cut bacon, sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick

1 medium red onion, halved and thinly sliced

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 tsp. crushed red pepper

11/4 cups strained tomatoes

1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese, plus more for serving

1/2 cup chopped parsley, plus more for garnish

Kosher salt and black pepper

1. In a large saucepan, cook the rigatoni until al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water.

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the bacon and onion and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened and the bacon is browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the tomato paste and crushed red pepper and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the strained tomatoes and bring the sauce just to a simmer.

3. Add the pasta and reserved cooking water to the sauce and cook over moderate heat, tossing, until the pasta is coated. Remove from the heat and stir in the 1/2 cup each of cheese and parsley. Season the pasta with salt and black pepper and transfer to bowls. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve, passing more cheese at the table. —Mario Batali

MAKE AHEAD The sauce can be refrigerated overnight. Reheat gently before adding the pasta.

WINE Herb-scented, dark-berried red: 2013 Vallevò Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.

Rigatoni with Cabbage and Crème Fraîche

imag Total 45 min; Serves 4

8 oz. pumpernickel bread, torn into pieces (3 cups)

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1 small onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1/2 tsp. crushed red pepper

1 head of Savoy cabbage (11/2 lbs.), shredded

2 cups chicken stock

1 lb. rigatoni

1/2 cup crème fraîche

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving

1. In a food processor, pulse the bread until coarse crumbs form. In a skillet, melt the butter in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the breadcrumbs and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp, about 8 minutes. Season with salt.

2. In a large straight-sided skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the bacon and cook over moderate heat until crisp; transfer to paper towels to drain. Add the onion, garlic and crushed red pepper to the skillet and cook until the onion is softened, about 2 minutes. Add the cabbage and stock and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring, until almost all of the stock has evaporated, about 8 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup of the pasta water. Toss the pasta with the cabbage. Stir in the crème fraîche, the 1/2 cup of cheese and, if necessary, the reserved pasta water; season with salt and black pepper. Transfer the pasta to bowls and garnish with the breadcrumbs, bacon and black pepper. Serve with additional cheese on the side. —Mike Lata

WINE Brisk, fragrant California Pinot Grigio: 2014 Palmina.

Casarecce with Sausage, Pickled Cherries and Pistachios

imag Total 35 min; Serves 6

2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup unsalted pistachios

Kosher salt and black pepper

1 lb. casarecce pasta

1/2 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casings removed

1 Tbsp. thyme leaves, chopped

1 garlic clove, thinly sliced

1 tsp. Aleppo pepper

3/4 cup pitted and chopped Pickled Cherries (recipe follows)

Shredded Pecorino Romano cheese, for serving

1. In a small skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Add the pistachios and toast over moderate heat, tossing occasionally, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and let cool, then coarsely chop.

2. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking water. Toss the pasta with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil.

3. In the same saucepan, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the sausage and cook over moderate heat, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until just cooked through, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the thyme, garlic and Aleppo pepper and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the pasta and reserved cooking water and cook, stirring, until the pasta is hot and coated in a light sauce, about 3 minutes. Stir in the pickled cherries and toasted pistachios and season with salt and black pepper. Transfer to shallow bowls, top with cheese and serve. —Tom Colicchio

WINE Tart, cherry-scented Austrian red: 2013 Berger Zweigelt.

PICKLED CHERRIES

Total 10 min plus overnight pickling Makes about 2 cups

Make a double batch of these pickled cherries—you’ll want to put them on everything. Serve alongside pâté, tossed into a salad or on crostini smeared with fresh ricotta.

2 cups sherry vinegar

1 cup sugar

1 lb. sweet cherries

In a medium saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar and 1/2 cup of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the cherries and return to a boil, then simmer over moderately high heat for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Transfer the cherries and brine to a 1-quart container and refrigerate overnight. Drain and pit before serving. —TC

MAKE AHEAD The pickled cherries can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.

Orecchiette with Sausage, Chickpeas and Mint

imag Total 30 min; Serves 6

1 lb. orecchiette

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 lb. loose sweet Italian sausage

1 large red onion, thinly sliced

One 15-oz. can chickpeas, rinsed

11/2 cups torn mint leaves

2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt and pepper

Plain yogurt, for serving

1. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the orecchiette until al dente. Drain, reserving 3/4 cup of the cooking water.

2. Wipe out the pot and heat the olive oil in it. Add the sausage and cook over moderate heat, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until browned and nearly cooked through, about 7 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the chickpeas, orecchiette and reserved cooking water and toss over moderate heat until the pasta is hot and coated in a light sauce, about 2 minutes. Stir in the mint and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Spoon the pasta into bowls and serve with yogurt. —Justin Chapple

WINE Vibrant, spice-inflected Barbera d’Alba: 2013 Pio Cesare.

Baked Semolina Gnocchi

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 6

6 cups whole milk

1 tsp. kosher salt

2 cups fine semolina (12 oz.), sifted (see Note)

1 stick salted butter, cut into tablespoons, plus more for greasing

11/2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (about 5 oz.)

2 large egg yolks

1. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large saucepan, whisk the milk with the salt and bring just to a boil. While whisking constantly, slowly add the semolina in a steady stream until smooth. Cook over moderate heat, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 1 to 2 minutes.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in 6 tablespoons of the butter until incorporated. Add 1 cup of the cheese and the egg yolks and stir with a wooden spoon until well blended. Scrape the semolina mixture onto the prepared baking sheet and spread in an even layer about 3/4 inch thick. Refrigerate until completely cooled, about 1 hour.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 21/2- to 3-quart baking dish.

4. Using a 21/2-inch round cookie cutter or wineglass, cut the semolina dough into rounds as close together as possible. Reserve the scraps for another use. Arrange the rounds in the prepared dish, overlapping them slightly. Cube the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and scatter over the top. Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 cup of cheese over the gnocchi and bake for about 30 minutes, until they are golden brown and hot throughout. Serve warm. —Katie Caldesi

NOTE Fine semolina (semolina flour) is available at specialty stores and online from amazon.com.

MAKE AHEAD The unbaked gnocchi can be assembled, covered and refrigerated overnight.

Potato Gnocchi with Wild Mushroom Ragù and Hazelnuts

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 15 min Serves 4 to 6

This versatile mushroom-and-herb ragù is as good on rigatoni or cheese ravioli as it is on the gnocchi here.

GNOCCHI

Four 1/2-lb. baking potatoes, pierced all over with a fork

2 large eggs, beaten

11/2 tsp. kosher salt

3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

RAGù

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened

21/2 Tbsp. finely chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, chives, tarragon, thyme and chervil

Kosher salt and pepper

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 small fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced, fronds chopped and reserved for garnish

2 shallots, thinly sliced

1 lb. mixed mushrooms, such as oyster, cremini and stemmed shiitake, cut into 1-inch pieces

1/3 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup chicken stock or low-sodium broth

Finely chopped skinned toasted hazelnuts and shredded pecorino cheese, for serving

1. Make the gnocchi Preheat the oven to 400°. Bake the potatoes directly on the oven rack for about 1 hour, or until tender. Transfer to a work surface and let cool slightly. Halve the potatoes lengthwise. Scoop the flesh into a ricer and rice the potatoes. Spread the riced potatoes on a work surface and let cool completely. Discard the skins.

2. On the work surface, gather the riced potatoes into a loose mound and make a well in the center. Add the eggs and salt to the well. Sift the flour on top and, using a bench scraper, mix everything together until a dough forms. Knead gently until smooth; the dough will be slightly sticky.

3. Line a baking sheet with wax paper and dust with flour. On a floured work surface, cut the dough into 8 pieces and roll each piece into a 3/4-inch-thick rope. Cut each rope into 1-inch lengths. Roll the gnocchi against the tines of a fork or a gnocchi paddle to make ridges; transfer to the prepared baking sheet.

4. Make the ragù In a small bowl, blend the butter with the mixed herbs. Season the herb butter with salt and pepper.

5. In a very large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the sliced fennel and shallots and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until just starting to soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the wine and cook, stirring, until absorbed, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the mushrooms are coated in a light sauce, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the herb butter. Season the ragù with salt and pepper; keep warm.

6. In a large saucepan of salted simmering water, working in 2 batches, cook the gnocchi until they rise to the surface, then simmer until cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to shallow bowls or a platter.

7. Spoon the ragù over the gnocchi and top with chopped hazelnuts, shredded pecorino and chopped fennel fronds. Serve right away. —Brad Grimes

MAKE AHEAD The uncooked gnocchi can be frozen on a baking sheet, then transferred to a sturdy plastic bag and frozen for up to 1 month. Boil from frozen.

WINE Focused, full-bodied Oregon Chardonnay: 2013 Antica Terra Aurata.

Andouille Mac and Cheese

Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 4

At The Heron in New York’s Catskill Mountains, chef Paul Nanni grinds and smokes his own andouille sausage for supergenerous portions of Cajun-inspired macaroni and cheese.

11/2 cups whole milk

11/2 cups heavy cream

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1 garlic clove, minced

1/2 tsp. finely chopped thyme

Pinch of cayenne

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch of white pepper

11/2 cups shredded mild white cheddar (6 oz.)

11/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar (6 oz.)

Kosher salt and black pepper

3 Tbsp. canola oil

1 cup panko

6 oz. andouille sausage, diced

3/4 cup finely diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup finely diced onion

1/4 cup thinly sliced scallions, plus more for garnish

1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro, plus leaves for garnish

1/4 cup finely chopped parsley

1 lb. medium pasta shells

Hot sauce

Thinly sliced hot red chiles or jalapeños, for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. In a small saucepan, bring the milk and cream to a simmer. Keep warm over very low heat.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and cook over moderate heat until bubbling, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the garlic, thyme, cayenne, nutmeg and white pepper and whisk until the roux is lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Gradually whisk in the milk and cream until the sauce is smooth and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, whisking, until no floury taste remains, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the mild cheddar and 1/2 cup of the sharp cheddar. Season the cheese sauce with salt and black pepper.

3. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the panko and toast over moderately high heat, stirring, until lightly browned, 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Wipe out the skillet.

4. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in the skillet. Add the andouille, bell pepper and onion and cook over moderate heat until the vegetables are lightly browned, 5 minutes. Stir in the 1/4 cup of sliced scallions and the chopped cilantro and parsley.

5. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the pasta until al dente. Drain well, then return the pasta to the pot. Stir in the cheese sauce and the andouille mixture. Season with hot sauce and salt and black pepper.

6. Spoon the pasta into four 12-ounce gratin dishes set on a baking sheet. Top with the remaining 1 cup of sharp cheddar and the toasted panko. Bake until piping hot, 15 to 20 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes. Garnish with scallions, cilantro and red chiles and serve with hot sauce. —Paul Nanni

WINE Red-berry-rich Italian red: 2011 Alberice Refosco dal Peduncolo.

Ukrainian Pasta Bake

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 4

Lokshyna are Ukrainian egg noodles, featured here in a hearty baked pasta that is rich with bacon, cottage cheese and eggs.

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing

1/2 lb. sliced bacon (about 8 slices)

1/2 lb. wide egg noodles

2 cups cottage cheese

1/4 cup half-and-half

2 large eggs, beaten

1 tsp. kosher salt

1/2 tsp. pepper

1/2 cup plain dry breadcrumbs

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter a 2-quart ovenproof baking dish.

2. Arrange the bacon on a rack over a baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes, until golden and cooked through. Let cool, then chop. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the bacon fat.

3. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the noodles until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain and run under cold water to cool. Drain well.

4. In a large bowl, combine the noodles, cottage cheese, half-and-half, eggs, bacon and reserved bacon fat. Season with the salt and pepper and mix well, then transfer the pasta to the prepared dish. In a small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs with the 4 tablespoons of melted butter and sprinkle on top of the pasta. Bake for about 45 minutes, until golden and crispy on top. Serve. —Sasha Martin

WINE Robust Malbec: 2012 Durigutti.

imag

DAD’S BUCATINI PIE

Dad’s Bucatini Pie

Active 20 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 6

This crispy, creamy skillet-baked pie has been in L.A. chef Vinny Dotolo’s family for ages.

1 lb. bucatini, broken in half

4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled

6 large eggs, beaten

11/2 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (4 oz.)

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/3 cup chopped parsley

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbsp. minced garlic

1 Tbsp. freshly ground pepper

2 tsp. kosher salt

Warm marinara sauce, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Lightly grease a 10-inch cast-iron skillet.

2. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the bucatini until al dente. Drain and run under cold water to stop the cooking. Drain well.

3. In a large bowl, whisk together the butter, eggs, cheese, cream, parsley, olive oil, garlic, pepper and salt. Add the pasta and toss to coat thoroughly. Scrape into the prepared skillet and bake for about 30 minutes, until just set. Remove from the oven.

4. Preheat the broiler. Broil the bucatini pie 6 inches from the heat until golden, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool for 10 minutes before cutting into wedges. Serve with warm marinara sauce. —Vinny Dotolo

MAKE AHEAD The pie can be kept at room temperature for 4 to 6 hours before serving.

WINE Zesty Corsican Vermentino: 2012 Antoine Arena Haut de Carco Patrimonio Blanc.

Cacio e Pepe Pasta Pie

Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 8

Three types of cheese flavor this showstopping baked spaghetti pie.

1 lb. spaghetti

11/2 cups milk

3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

21/2 tsp. ground black pepper

2 tsp. kosher salt

6 oz. Fontina cheese, shredded (2 cups)

6 oz. sharp white cheddar cheese, shredded (2 cups)

Butter, for greasing

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti until al dente. Drain well.

2. In a large bowl, mix the pasta, milk, Parmigiano, eggs, pepper, salt and 11/2 cups each of the Fontina and cheddar. Scrape into a buttered 9-inch springform pan, then sprinkle the remaining 1/2 cup each of Fontina and cheddar on top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the cheese is melted and bubbling.

3. Turn on the broiler. Broil the pie 8 inches from the heat for 2 to 3 minutes, until browned on top. Transfer to a rack and let cool for 15 minutes. Remove the ring, cut the pie into wedges and serve. —Justin Chapple

WINE Silky, concentrated northern Italian red: 2012 Foradori Teroldego.

Pasta with Spicy Tofu and Pistachios

Active 50 min; Total 1 hr 45 min; Serves 6

1 lb. firm tofu—drained, patted dry and cut into 3/4-inch dice

6 garlic cloves, minced

11/2 tsp. ground Calabrian chiles or cayenne

1/4 tsp. finely chopped thyme

Kosher salt

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3/4 cup finely chopped onion

3/4 cup dry white wine

One 28-oz. can tomato puree

2 Tbsp. finely chopped basil

1/4 cup canola oil

1 lb. strozzapreti pasta

Chopped pistachios, grated pecorino and dried oregano, for serving

1. In a medium bowl, toss the tofu with half of the garlic, the chiles, thyme and 2 teaspoons of salt. Cover and refrigerate the tofu for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion, the remaining garlic and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 7 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato puree and basil and bring to a boil. Cover partially and simmer over moderately low heat until thickened slightly, 20 to 25 minutes; keep the sauce warm.

3. In a large skillet, heat the canola oil until shimmering. Add the tofu and cook over moderate heat until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Flip the tofu and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned all over, about 3 minutes longer; keep warm.

4. In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the strozzapreti until al dente. Add the pasta to the sauce and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until coated, about 2 minutes. Fold in the tofu and season with salt. Transfer to a platter and garnish with chopped pistachios, grated pecorino and dried oregano. Serve right away. —Gerard Craft

WINE Spicy, berried southern Italian red: 2013 Librandi Cirò.

Lemongrass Pork and Rice Noodle Bowl

Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr 30 min; Serves 6

This lemongrass pork from Nhi Mundy, owner of the Bà & Me Vietnamese restaurants in New York and Pennsylvania, is based on an old family recipe.

1/4 cup oyster sauce

1/4 cup vegetable oil

2 medium shallots, minced

1 lemongrass stalk, inner white bulb only, minced

2 Tbsp. light brown sugar

2 Tbsp. honey

2 Tbsp. Asian chile sauce, plus more for serving

1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

1 tsp. white pepper

1/4 tsp. baking soda

6 garlic cloves, minced

Kosher salt

2 lbs. boneless pork shoulder, sliced 1/4 inch thick

11/2 cups julienned carrot

1 cup julienned daikon

1/4 cup distilled white vinegar

1/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar

3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

2 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

1 small jalapeño, minced

8 oz. rice vermicelli

Mint, cilantro, romaine lettuce and sliced cucumber, for serving

1. In a large bowl, whisk the oyster sauce with the vegetable oil, shallots, lemongrass, brown sugar, honey, 2 tablespoons of chile sauce, the sesame oil, white pepper, baking soda, 5 of the garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon of salt. Add the pork and turn to coat. Refrigerate for 2 hours.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, toss the carrot and daikon with the vinegar, 1/4 cup of the granulated sugar and 1/4 cup of water. Let stand for 30 minutes. Drain well and refrigerate until chilled.

3. In a small bowl, stir 1/4 cup of water with the lime juice, fish sauce and jalapeño. Add the remaining garlic clove and 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar and stir until the sugar is dissolved.

4. In a large saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the vermicelli until al dente. Drain and rinse with cool water. Pat dry and transfer to bowls.

5. Light a grill. Remove the pork from the marinade, scraping off any excess. Grill over high heat, turning, until lightly charred and just cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes. Top the noodles with the pork and some of the pickled vegetables. Serve with mint, cilantro, romaine, cucumber and the chile-lime sauce. —Nhi Mundy

WINE White-peach-scented, full-bodied Rhône white: 2014 Château L’Ermitage Blanc.

imag

UDON WITH PRESERVED MUSTARD GREENS AND CHILE SAUCE

Udon with Preserved Mustard Greens and Chile Sauce

Active 45 min; Total 4 hr 30 min; Serves 4

At the forthcoming San Francisco restaurant Fat Noodle, chef Josh Skenes will make his rich broth with fresh kelp. Home cooks may want to use store-bought kombu, a readily available dried kelp.

12 oz. mustard greens, stems discarded and leaves torn

Kosher salt

One 3-lb. chicken, cut into 12 pieces

One 4-inch piece of kelp or kombu, rinsed

2 Fresno chiles—stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced

1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce

1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp. mala sauce or other preserved chile flakes in oil (see Note)

Two 8-oz. packages frozen udon noodles

1. In a large bowl, toss the mustard greens with 1 teaspoon of salt. Gently massage the greens until just starting to wilt. Let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes, tossing occasionally. Gently squeeze the excess water from the mustard greens and drain well. Transfer the greens to a 1-pint glass jar, cover and let stand at room temperature for at least 4 hours or overnight.

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, cover the chicken and kelp with 12 cups of water. Add a generous pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the broth is richly flavored, about 21/2 hours, skimming off the foam as it rises to the surface. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a heatproof bowl; you should have about 4 cups. Reserve the chicken for another use. Return the broth to the saucepan, cover and keep hot.

3. In a small bowl, whisk the Fresno chiles with the fish sauce, lime juice and mala sauce. Season lightly with salt.

4. In a large saucepan of boiling water, cook the udon until tender, about 2 minutes. Drain well and transfer to 4 warm bowls. Ladle the hot broth over the udon and top with some of the preserved mustard greens. Serve hot, passing the chile sauce at the table. —Joshua Skenes

NOTE Mala sauce is a Chinese chile sauce with Sichuan peppercorns and spices. It is available at Asian markets or online.

MAKE AHEAD The preserved mustard greens, rich broth and pickled chile sauce can be refrigerated separately for up to 3 days.

INGREDIENT TIP

Pairing Pasta Shapes and Sauces

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CASARECCE “HOME-STYLE”

Excellent with pesto or lighter, smoother sauces such as simple marinara.

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ROTINI OR FUSILLI “SPIRALS” OR “TWISTS”

Fabulous with carbonara, pesto or meaty ragùs or in pasta salad.

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CAMPANELLE “BELLFLOWERS”

Best paired with creamy sauces, butter-and-oil sauces or ground-meat ragùs.

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CONCHIGLIE “SHELLS”

Perfect for soups and stews, tomato and meat sauces or mac and cheese.

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CAVATAPPI “CORKSCREWS”

Great in baked dishes or tossed with pesto or thick and hearty ragùs.