Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)
SOUPS & STEWS
LEMONY ROASTED ASPARAGUS SOUP
Lemony Roasted Asparagus Soup
Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr; Serves 4
2 lbs. jumbo asparagus
1 onion, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
4 large egg yolks
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb. oyster mushrooms, torn into small pieces
Chopped dill and dried oregano, for garnish
1. Peel and trim the asparagus. Slice the stalks diagonally 1/4 inch thick; reserve the stems and peelings. In a large saucepan, combine the asparagus trimmings, onion, wine and 6 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer, covered, over moderately low heat until the asparagus trimmings are soft, about 1 hour. Transfer the contents of the pan to a blender and puree until as smooth as possible. Strain the broth through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids. Wipe out the saucepan.
2. Preheat the oven to 450°. Melt the butter in the saucepan over moderate heat. Whisk in the flour until golden brown and nutty-smelling, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the asparagus broth until smooth and bring to a gentle simmer. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the lemon juice. Gradually whisk in 1/4 cup of the hot broth, then whisk in half of the remaining broth. Return this mixture to the broth in the saucepan and simmer, whisking frequently, until hot. Season with salt.
3. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the sliced asparagus with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 8 minutes, stirring, until the asparagus is golden but still slightly firm.
4. In a nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil. Add the mushrooms and cook over moderately high heat until golden and crisp, 8 minutes.
5. Transfer the roasted asparagus to shallow bowls. Ladle the soup over the asparagus and top with the mushrooms. Garnish with dill and oregano and serve. —Cassie Piuma
Cold Tomato Soup with Ham and Hard-Boiled Eggs
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 20 min; Serves 4
Blender blades can heat up the soup if they’re working really hard, so chef José Andrés throws in a few ice cubes to keep the temperature cool.
2 lbs. ripe plum tomatoes, cored and quartered
2 garlic cloves, crushed
3 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish, plus more for drizzling
1 cup cubed stale rustic white bread (1 oz.)
1/2 cup large ice cubes
Kosher salt
2 large eggs
4 thin slices of serrano ham (11/2 oz.)
1. In a blender, combine the tomatoes, garlic and vinegar with 1/4 cup of cold water and the 3/4 cup of olive oil; puree until nearly smooth. With the machine on, gradually add the bread and ice cubes and puree until very smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape the soup into a medium bowl and season with salt. Refrigerate until cold, about 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, cover the eggs with water and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat, cover and let stand for 10 minutes. Drain the eggs and run them under cold water until cooled, then peel and cut in half. Separate the yolks from the whites. Separately press the whites and yolks through a fine sieve.
3. Ladle the soup into bowls. Garnish with the ham and sieved egg whites and yolks. Drizzle with olive oil and serve. —José Andrés
Chunky Artichoke and Sunchoke Soup
Active 45 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 6 to 8
This creamy soup simmers with a layer of prosciutto on top, which adds marvelous flavor.
1 lemon, halved
9 medium artichokes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 garlic cloves, minced
Kosher salt
11/4 lbs. sunchokes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3/4 cup dry white wine
4 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto
1 cup heavy cream
4 scallions, thinly sliced
1. Squeeze the juice from 1 lemon half into a large bowl of water. Snap off the dark green outer leaves of 1 of the artichokes. Cut 1 inch off the top, then peel the bottom and stem. Halve the artichoke lengthwise and scoop out the furry choke. Cut each half in half lengthwise, then rub the quarters with the remaining lemon half and add them to the lemon water. Repeat the process with the remaining 8 artichokes.
2. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Add the onions, garlic and 2 teaspoons of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened and light golden, about 15 minutes. Scatter the sunchokes over the onions in an even layer. Drain the artichokes and arrange on top. Pour in the wine and 2 cups of water. Completely cover the vegetables with the prosciutto.
3. Cover the casserole and cook over low heat for 30 minutes. Stir in the cream and sprinkle the scallions on top. Cover and cook until all of the vegetables are tender and the soup has thickened slightly, about 30 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and let stand for 10 minutes. Season with salt and serve. —April Bloomfield
MAKE AHEAD The soup can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.
Green Gazpacho with Fennel and Blueberries
Active 40 min; Total 2 hr 45 min Serves 4 to 6
BLUEBERRIES
1 cup dried blueberries (4 oz.)
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. sugar
2 tsp. Champagne vinegar
SOUP
1 lb. ripe green melon, such as honeydew, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (3 cups)
4 Persian cucumbers—peeled, seeded and chopped
2 Hass avocados (12 oz.)—peeled, pitted and chopped
1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup crème fraîche
Kosher salt
SWEET HERB OIL
1/2 cup mild, fruity extra-virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil, chilled
1 cup packed fennel fronds, anise hyssop or lemon balm (1 oz.)
GARNISH
1 small fennel bulb, inner core only, halved and very thinly sliced lengthwise
1 Persian cucumber—peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise on the diagonal
1/2 tsp. Champagne vinegar
Pinch of sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
Fennel pollen and mint or anise hyssop flowers, for garnish
1. Make the blueberries In a medium bowl, mix the blueberries with the sugar and vinegar. Let macerate at room temperature for 1 hour, stirring occasionally.
2. Preheat the oven to 200°. Spread the blueberries on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and bake for 1 hour and 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thickened but still moist. Let cool.
3. Meanwhile, make the soup In a blender, combine all of the ingredients, season with salt and puree until smooth. Strain the soup through a fine sieve into a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours, until cold.
4. Make the sweet herb oil In a blender, combine the oil and herbs and puree until smooth. In a sieve set over a small bowl, strain the oil through a coffee filter or a double layer of cheesecloth.
5. Make the garnish In a medium bowl, toss the fennel and cucumber with the vinegar, sugar and salt. Let stand for 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of the sweet herb oil; toss to coat.
6. Spoon the blueberries into bowls and top with the fennel-cucumber garnish. Pour the soup around the berries. Drizzle with some of the remaining herb oil, top with fennel pollen and mint or anise hyssop flowers and serve. —Carlos Salgado
Chilled Beet and Green Apple Bisque
Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 15 min plus chilling Serves 4 to 6
Shredding the beets and apples for this deep fuchsia soup cuts down on the cooking time and keeps the sweet-tart flavors fresh.
11/2 lbs. medium beets, peeled and cut into wedges
2 Granny Smith apples—peeled, cored and cut into wedges
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
1/4 cup apple juice
Kosher salt
1/2 cup sour cream mixed with 1 Tbsp. water
Shaved or julienned beets and small beet greens, for garnish
1. In a food processor fitted with the shredding disk or using a box grater, shred the beets and apples.
2. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 minutes. Add the shredded beets and apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften, 5 minutes. Add the stock and 31/2 cups of water; bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the beets are tender, 25 to 30 minutes.
3. In a blender, puree the soup with the apple juice until very smooth. Transfer to a bowl; refrigerate until chilled, 45 minutes.
4. Stir tablespoons of water into the soup if it gets too thick, then season with salt. Ladle the soup into bowls and swirl in the sour cream. Garnish with shaved or julienned beets and beet greens and serve. —Justin Chapple
MAKE AHEAD The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Chunky Red Beet and Tomato Soup
Active 25 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 6
1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 garlic cloves, minced
One 28-oz. can whole peeled Italian tomatoes, crushed by hand, juices reserved
2 large beets (11/2 lbs.), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 medium carrots, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3/4 tsp. ground cumin, plus more for serving
1/4 tsp. cayenne, plus more for seasoning
Sea salt
Whole-milk plain Greek yogurt, for serving
1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 8 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices, the beets, carrots, 3/4 teaspoon of cumin and 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne. Season with salt and add enough water to cover the vegetables by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, cover partially and simmer over low heat until the vegetables are very tender, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat and let stand for at least 30 minutes to allow the flavors to develop.
2. Reheat the soup and season with salt, cumin and cayenne. Serve topped with a dollop of yogurt and a pinch of cumin. —Michael Stebner
MAKE AHEAD The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Broccoli Soup with Raisin Sauce and Pine Nuts
Total 1 hr; Serves 6 to 8
1/3 cup pine nuts
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 garlic cloves, crushed
1 leek, split lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise
1/4 tsp. crushed red pepper
Kosher salt and black pepper
6 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
One 1-lb. head of broccoli, florets and stem coarsely chopped
2 small shallots, finely chopped
1/2 cup apple cider
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/3 cup raisins
2 Tbsp. cream cheese, softened
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the pine nuts in a pie plate and toast for about 8 minutes, until golden brown.
2. In a large saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the garlic, leek, crushed red pepper and 2 teaspoons of salt and cook over moderate heat until the leek begins to soften, 5 minutes. Add the stock and broccoli and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook until the broccoli is tender and the soup is slightly reduced, about 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Pour in the cider and vinegar and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir in the raisins and 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Remove from the heat and let stand for 10 minutes. Pour the raisins and their liquid into a blender. Add the cream cheese and blend to a smooth sauce. Pour into a small bowl.
4. In a blender, working in batches, puree the soup with the Parmigiano-Reggiano and olive oil. Season with pepper. Ladle the soup into shallow serving bowls, drizzle with some of the raisin sauce and sprinkle with the pine nuts. Serve immediately. —Vivian Howard
Cauliflower Soup with Herbed Goat Cheese
Total 50 min; Serves 4 to 6
One 21/2-lb. head of cauliflower, cored
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium leek, white and light green parts only, coarsely chopped
1 large garlic clove, minced
Kosher salt
1 large baking potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 quart chicken stock or low-sodium broth
3 thyme sprigs tied in a bundle plus 1 tsp. chopped leaves
8 brussels sprouts (6 oz.), trimmed and separated into leaves
4 oz. cold fresh goat cheese, crumbled
2 Tbsp. snipped chives
1/4 cup heavy cream
1. Preheat the oven to 375°. On a work surface, cut one-fourth of the cauliflower into 1/2-inch florets. Coarsely chop the remaining cauliflower.
2. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the leek, garlic and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, 5 minutes. Stir in the potato and the chopped cauliflower, then add the wine and cook over high heat until reduced by half, 4 minutes. Add the stock and the thyme bundle and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender, about 30 minutes. Discard the thyme bundle.
3. Meanwhile, at either end of a large rimmed baking sheet, separately toss the cauliflower florets and brussels sprout leaves each with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt. Roast for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring each halfway through, until lightly browned and tender. In a small bowl, mix the goat cheese with the chives and chopped thyme.
4. In a blender, puree the soup in 2 batches until very smooth. Return the soup to the saucepan and stir in the cream. Rewarm over moderate heat, adding water if the soup seems too thick; season with salt. Ladle into bowls and top with the roasted brussels sprout leaves and cauliflower florets. Sprinkle the herbed goat cheese on top and serve hot. —Anne Burrell
Cauliflower and Cashew Soup with Apple
Active 15 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 6
This vegan soup gets a hint of fruity sweetness from apple and a double dose of creaminess from almond milk and pureed raw cashews.
1 head of cauliflower (21/4 lbs.), bottom trimmed and leaves removed
1 medium onion, chopped
1 small Pink Lady apple—peeled, cored and chopped
1/2 cup raw cashews
1 Tbsp. minced peeled fresh ginger
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. ground cardamom
1/4 tsp. cayenne
Salt
1 cup plain unsweetened almond milk
Chopped roasted cashews, for garnish
1. Chop the cauliflower into large pieces, including the stem. In a large pot, combine all of the ingredients except the salt, almond milk and garnish. Add enough water to cover the vegetables, season with salt and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the cauliflower is very tender, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly.
2. Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a clean pot and stir in the almond milk. Rewarm over moderate heat, adding more water or almond milk for a thinner consistency, if desired. Season the soup with salt, garnish with chopped cashews and serve. —Michael Stebner
MAKE AHEAD The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
CELERY SOUP WITH BACONY CROUTONS
Celery Soup with Bacony Croutons
Active 1 hr; Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 8
This elegant soup gets a surprising amount of flavor from sautéed celery. It has great garnishes, too: bacon, croutons cooked in bacon fat and a drizzle of lemon olive oil. Be sure to buy extra-virgin olive oil infused with pure lemon extract.
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 medium leeks, halved and thinly sliced
2 medium onions, finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
12 large celery ribs (2 lbs.), trimmed and thinly sliced
4 oz. bacon, finely diced
Three 1/2-inch-thick slices of country bread, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/2 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
Lemon olive oil, for drizzling
1. In a large saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. Add the leeks, onions, garlic and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until softened but not browned, about 12 minutes. Add the celery and cook, stirring, until just starting to soften, about 3 minutes. Add 8 cups of water and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to moderate. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very tender, 35 to 40 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and crisp, 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to half of a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the bacon fat. Add the bread and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until browned and crisp, 8 minutes. Transfer the croutons to the other side of the prepared baking sheet; season with salt and pepper.
3. Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender until smooth. Return the soup to the saucepan, whisk in the crème fraîche and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot, topped with the bacon, the croutons and a drizzle of lemon olive oil. —Naomi Pomeroy
FARRO AND WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH SWISS CHARD AND HERB OIL
Farro and White Bean Soup with Swiss Chard and Herb Oil
Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr plus overnight soaking; Serves 18
Chef Dan Kluger’s vegetarian soup is perfect for feeding a crowd. It was inspired by events like the annual Social Soup Experiment at New York City’s High Line park. The “experiment” involves hundreds of people seated at long tables sharing soup and reveling in communal spirit.
SOUP
2 cups Great Northern beans—picked over, soaked overnight and drained
Kosher salt and pepper
11/2 cups farro (9 oz.)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, halved and thinly sliced
11/4 cups thinly sliced carrots
11/4 cups thinly sliced celery root
1/3 cup thinly sliced garlic
Two 28-oz. cans fire-roasted diced tomatoes
1 lb. red Swiss chard, stemmed and leaves chopped
HERB OIL
2 Tbsp. minced parsley
1 Tbsp. minced rosemary
1 Tbsp. minced thyme
1 Tbsp. minced oregano
1/2 jalapeño, seeded and minced
11/2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for serving
1. Make the soup In a large pot, cover the soaked beans with at least 4 inches of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderately low heat until the beans are tender, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain, reserving 6 cups of the cooking liquid.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, cook the farro until al dente, about 20 minutes. Drain.
3. Wipe out the large pot and heat the olive oil in it. Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 7 minutes. Add the carrots, celery root and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables just start to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the juices have reduced by half, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Add the reserved bean cooking liquid and 14 cups of water to the pot and bring to a simmer. Stir in the beans, farro and Swiss chard and simmer over moderate heat until the chard is wilted and the soup is hot, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
5. Make the herb oil In a medium bowl, whisk the herbs with the jalapeño, lemon zest and olive oil; season with salt.
6. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and top with the herb oil and grated cheese. —Dan Kluger
MAKE AHEAD The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Reheat gently before serving. The herb oil can be refrigerated overnight; serve at room temperature.
WINTER SQUASH SOUP WITH KALE AND FIDEOS
Winter Squash Soup with Kale and Fideos
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 50 min; Serves 4
1 yellow onion, halved
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
One 21/2-lb. Red Kuri squash—scrubbed, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch pieces, skin and seeds reserved
8 cups Rooster Soup Co. Broth (recipe follows) or water
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
One 2-inch piece of fresh ginger, thinly sliced
2 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
Kosher salt and pepper
21/2 oz. fideos or angel hair pasta, broken into 1-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
1 small bunch of kale, stemmed and coarsely chopped (3 cups)
1 cup thawed frozen pearl onions, halved
1. Heat a cast-iron skillet until smoking, 3 minutes. Add the yellow onion cut side down and cook over high heat, without turning, until completely charred, 5 minutes. Transfer the onion halves to a plate.
2. In a large saucepan, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the reserved squash skins and seeds and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the broth, charred onion, tomatoes, ginger, cloves, cinnamon stick and 2 teaspoons of salt and bring to a simmer over moderately high heat. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the broth is a deep golden brown, about 1 hour. Strain the squash broth and return it to the saucepan; keep warm.
3. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the fideos with 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. Toast in the oven until golden, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.
4. On the rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash cubes with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast the squash until beginning to brown but still slightly firm, about 12 minutes.
5. Bring the broth to a simmer. Add the kale and pearl onions and cook over moderately high heat until the onions start to soften, 5 minutes. Add the squash and fideos and cook until the fideos are al dente, 8 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and serve. —Michael Solomonov
ROOSTER SOUP CO. BROTH
Active 10 min; Total 6 hr 30 min Makes 5 quarts
5 lbs. chicken carcasses, backs, wings and/or legs
1 yellow onion, halved
1 carrot, halved
1 celery rib, halved
2 garlic cloves
1 bay leaf
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
In a large stockpot, cover the chicken bones with 6 quarts of water and bring to a boil over moderately high heat, skimming as necessary. Add the remaining ingredients and reduce the heat to a simmer. Cover and cook over moderately low heat until the broth is a light golden color and slightly reduced, about 6 hours. Strain the broth and let cool. —MS
Herbed Yogurt Soup with Rice
Total 45 min; Serves 4
1 large egg
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1/2 cup arborio rice, rinsed and drained
1 quart full-fat plain yogurt
1/2 cup each finely chopped mint, cilantro, parsley, and watercress or basil
Kosher salt
Ground cinnamon, for sprinkling
In a large saucepan, beat the egg with the flour and rice. Whisk in the yogurt and 3 cups of water and cook over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until thickened slightly and the rice is tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in the herbs and cook for 2 minutes. Season the soup with salt. Ladle into wide bowls, sprinkle with cinnamon and serve. —Naomi Duguid
Amaranth in Brodo with Egg and Spinach
Active 20 min; Total 4 hr; Serves 4 to 6
Tiny whole-grain amaranth stands in for pastina, the smallest pasta shape. The rich, deep broth is fantastic with the nutty pop of the amaranth.
8 whole chicken legs (41/2 lbs.)
1 lb. beef stew meat, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 turkey wings
1 onion, chopped
4 celery ribs, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
One 12-oz. can whole tomatoes
1 tsp. black peppercorns
12 parsley sprigs plus 1 Tbsp. chopped parsley
1/2 cup amaranth
4 cups baby spinach (4 oz.)
3 large eggs
2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for garnish
Pinch of grated nutmeg
Fine sea salt and pepper
1. In a large pot, combine the chicken, beef and turkey. Fill the pot with 41/2 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Cover partially and simmer over moderate heat, skimming off the fat and foam that rise to the surface, until the broth looks clear, about 30 minutes. Add the onion, celery, carrots, tomatoes, peppercorns and parsley sprigs. Simmer until the broth is very flavorful and reduced to 5 cups, about 21/2 hours. Strain the broth through a sieve; discard the solids.
2. In a large saucepan, bring the broth to a boil. Add the amaranth, cover and cook over moderately low heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in the spinach.
3. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the cheese, chopped parsley, nutmeg and 1/2 teaspoon each of sea salt and pepper. Remove the saucepan from the heat and drizzle in the eggs. Cover the soup and let stand, without stirring, for 8 minutes. Gently stir the eggs to break them into strands. Season the soup with salt and pepper and serve garnished with cheese. —Marco Canora
French Onion Soup
Active 1 hr; Total 2 hr; Serves 6
Chef Matt Conroy of Little Prince in New York City makes a hearty beef broth for his richly flavored classic French onion soup. If you make the broth a day in advance and refrigerate it, it’s supereasy to skim off the cold solidified fat, and you’ll have a soup with a clearer onion flavor.
BEEF BROTH
5 lbs. beef neck and shinbones
2 onions, halved
2 leeks, white and light green parts only, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 head of garlic, halved
3 thyme sprigs
6 parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
1/2 tsp. whole black peppercorns
SOUP
2 Tbsp. canola oil
8 large onions (4 lbs.), thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
Bouquet garni made with 2 bay leaves, 4 thyme sprigs and 1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
1 Tbsp. Cognac
2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
FOR SERVING
Toasted baguette slices
4 oz. cave-aged Gruyère, shredded (11/2 cups)
4 oz. Emmental cheese, shredded (11/2 cups)
Chopped chives and cracked black pepper
1. Make the beef broth Preheat the oven to 450°. Arrange the bones on a baking sheet and roast for about 30 minutes, until browned. Transfer to a very large pot and add all of the remaining ingredients. Add 7 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Cook over moderately high heat, skimming as necessary, until reduced by half (to 31/2 quarts), about 1 hour. Strain the broth into a large bowl and skim off the fat.
2. Meanwhile, start the soup In a large pot, heat the oil. Add the onions and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until deep golden, about 1 hour. Season with salt.
3. Stir the butter into the onions until melted. Add the flour and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the flour is incorporated and the onions are sizzling, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the 31/2 quarts of beef broth and bouquet garni and bring to a simmer. Cook until reduced to 10 cups, about 35 minutes. Discard the bouquet garni. Stir in the Cognac and vinegar and season the soup with salt and pepper.
4. Preheat the broiler. Ladle the soup into 6 ovenproof bowls set on a baking sheet. Top with toasted baguette slices. Toss the cheeses together and sprinkle over the bread. Broil 6 inches from the heat for 7 to 8 minutes, until the cheese is melted and golden. Garnish with chives and pepper and serve. —Matt Conroy
Chicken-Chile Soup
Total 30 min; Serves 6 to 8
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 poblano chiles—stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced
1 onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, sliced
11/2 tsp. ground coriander
Kosher salt
2 quarts chicken stock or low-sodium broth
4 cups shredded cooked chicken (11/4 lbs.)
Two 15-oz. cans hominy, rinsed and drained
Chopped cilantro and thinly sliced radishes, for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the chiles, onion, garlic, coriander and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the chiles are softened, about 8 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Stir in the chicken and hominy and simmer over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Season with salt. Ladle the soup into shallow bowls, garnish with cilantro and sliced radishes and serve with lime wedges. —Justin Chapple
Stracciatella Soup
Total 15 min; Serves 4
Stracciatella means “little rag,” which is exactly what the beaten eggs look like once they’re cooked in the soup. Jenn Louis, the chef at Lincoln Restaurant in Portland, Oregon, amps up her tasty version of the classic Roman chicken soup by adding peas, carrots and spinach.
4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
2 medium carrots, thinly sliced
1/2 cup thawed frozen peas
3 oz. curly spinach (4 cups)
3 large eggs
2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish
Kosher salt and pepper
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Crusty bread, for serving
In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add the carrots and peas and cook over moderate heat until just tender, about 3 minutes. Add the spinach and cook until wilted, 1 minute. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the 2 tablespoons of cheese. Slowly drizzle the egg mixture into the soup and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until ribbons form, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle the soup into bowls, drizzle with olive oil and garnish with grated cheese. Serve with crusty bread. —Jenn Louis
Moroccan Split Pea Soup with Sweet-Spiced Pickles
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 30 min Serves 4 to 6
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 tsp. ground cumin
2 tsp. sweet paprika
Kosher salt
2 cups green split peas (14 oz.)
1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro, plus leaves for garnish
Sweet-Spiced Pickles (recipe follows), for garnish
Warm crusty bread, for serving
1. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the onion and garlic and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until softened and translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the cumin and paprika, season with salt and cook, stirring, until the spices are fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the split peas and 8 cups of water and bring to a boil. Simmer, stirring, until the peas just start to soften, 20 minutes.
2. Add the chopped cilantro to the saucepan. Cover and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the peas are broken down and the soup is thick, about 40 minutes longer. Season with salt, garnish with pickles and cilantro and serve with crusty bread. —Tara Stevens
SWEET-SPICED PICKLES
Total 15 min; Makes about 2 cups
3 carrots, peeled and shaved into ribbons with a vegetable peeler
4 radishes, thinly sliced
1/2 Fresno or red jalapeño chile, thinly sliced
6 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 tsp. salt
In a heatproof bowl, combine the carrots, radishes and chile. In a small saucepan, cook the vinegar, sugar and salt over low heat, stirring, until the sugar and salt dissolve. Let cool for 5 minutes. Pour the brine over the vegetables and serve. —TS
MAKE AHEAD The pickles can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
Caldo Verde
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4
Beth Kirby, the blogger behind Local Milk, was inspired to make this potato-and-kale soup after hosting a food photography workshop in Portugal. She gives the soup a savory lift with chorizo and a bit of tang with a splash of sherry vinegar.
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 medium onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
Kosher salt
1 lb. baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
Two 4-oz. fresh chorizo sausages
One 8-oz. bunch of Tuscan kale, stems discarded and leaves thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. sherry vinegar
1 tsp. sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a large saucepan, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onion, garlic and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until just starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Add 6 cups of water and the potatoes and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very tender, about 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, on a rimmed baking sheet, roast the sausages for about 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in each one registers 165°. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes, then slice crosswise 1/2inch thick.
3. Working in batches, puree the soup in a blender until very smooth. Return the soup to the saucepan and bring just to a simmer over moderate heat. Add the kale and simmer until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in the vinegar and sugar, then season with salt. Ladle the soup into bowls, top with the sliced chorizo and a drizzle of olive oil and serve. —Beth Kirby
Hot-and-Sour Soup
Active 25 min; Total 50 min; Serves 4
In Lucky Peach Presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes, co-author Peter Meehan champions this lighter, thinner and intensely delicious version of hot-and-sour soup. “We’re reclaiming the goopy, satisfying stuff we eat from takeout cartons at home on the couch,” Meehan says.
1 oz. dried wood ear mushrooms (1/2 cup)
Boiling water
2 Tbsp. canola oil
1/2 lb. lean pork shoulder, sliced 1/8 inch thick and cut into 1-by-1/4-inch strips
1 Tbsp. finely chopped garlic
1 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1/2 cup chopped scallions
4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
1/2 lb. soft tofu, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/3 cup unseasoned rice vinegar, plus more for serving
3 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
1 Tbsp. Sriracha, plus more for serving
Kosher salt
2 large eggs, beaten
1. In a small heatproof bowl, cover the mushrooms with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 30 minutes. Drain and coarsely chop the mushrooms; discard the soaking water.
2. In a large saucepan, heat the canola oil. Add the pork, garlic, ginger and scallions and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the pork is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Stir in the stock and add the tofu, 1/3 cup of vinegar, the soy sauce, sugar, pepper, sesame oil, mushrooms and 1 tablespoon of Sriracha. Bring the soup to a simmer and season with salt. While stirring constantly, drizzle in the eggs and cook until strands form, 1 minute. Serve hot, passing rice vinegar and Sriracha at the table. —Peter Meehan
Crab Omelet-and-Tomato Soup
Total 1 hr; Serves 4
In her unfussy version of the Vietnamese soup bun rieu cua, blogger Shu Han Lee skips the traditional method of pounding crab shells and simmering them with pork bones and tomatoes; instead, she prepares a quick broth with chicken stock, fermented shrimp paste and cherry tomatoes. At the end, she swirls in beaten eggs mixed with crabmeat and ground pork to make an omelet right in the fragrant soup.
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
4 shallots, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp. fermented shrimp paste (see Note)
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1 quart chicken stock or low-sodium broth
1/2 lb. cherry tomatoes
1 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce
Kosher salt
4 large eggs
2 Tbsp. Asian chile-garlic paste
6 oz. lump crabmeat, picked over for shells
4 oz. ground pork
6 oz. rice vermicelli
Boiling water
6 oz. mung bean sprouts
Lime wedges and mint, cilantro and basil leaves, for serving
1. In a large saucepan, heat the oil. Add the shallots and garlic and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the shrimp paste and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the chicken stock and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderate, add the tomatoes and simmer until just starting to pop, about 8 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, lightly crush some of the tomatoes against the side of the pan. Stir in the fish sauce and season the soup lightly with salt.
2. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the chile-garlic paste and a generous pinch of salt. Add the crab and pork and, using a fork, stir the mixture well to break up the meat.
3. Bring the soup to a rolling boil over high heat. Stir in a circular motion and pour the egg mixture into the center of the swirl. Stop stirring and simmer the omelet in the soup over moderate heat for 6 minutes, then turn off the heat and stir to distribute the omelet throughout the soup.
4. In a large heatproof bowl, cover the vermicelli with boiling water and let stand until softened, about 10 minutes. Drain well. Divide the vermicelli and bean sprouts among 4 bowls. Ladle the soup on top and serve with lime wedges and mint, cilantro and basil leaves. —Shu Han Lee
NOTE Fermented shrimp paste is available at Asian markets and from amazon.com.
Tuscan White Bean and Escarole Soup with Tuna
Total 30 min; Serves 4
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
10 oz. escarole, chopped
2 tsp. minced rosemary
6 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
One 15-oz. can cannellini beans, rinsed
15 oz. tuna in olive oil, drained
Kosher salt and pepper
Shredded Parmesan cheese and crusty bread, for serving
Heat the oil in a pot. Add the onion and garlic and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the escarole and rosemary and cook until the escarole is wilted, 3 minutes. Add the stock, beans and tuna and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the soup with shredded Parmesan and crusty bread. —Justin Chapple
SHRIMP BISQUE WITH MUSCADET AND TARRAGON
Shrimp Bisque with Muscadet and Tarragon
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4
This simple, superlight bisque from the heart of France’s Muscadet country has a surprisingly deep shrimp flavor.
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. canola oil
1 lb. medium shrimp, shelled and deveined, shells reserved
1 small onion, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
1/2 cup Muscadet
1/4 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and pepper
Coarsely chopped tarragon, for garnish
1. In a large saucepan, melt the butter in the oil. Add the shrimp and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until light golden and just white throughout, about 2 minutes. Transfer 8 of the shrimp to a plate to cool; finely chop and reserve them for adding to the finished bisque.
2. Add the reserved shrimp shells, the onion and garlic to the remaining shrimp in the saucepan. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until lightly caramelized, about 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and cook until almost evaporated, about 1 minute. Stir in 6 cups of water and bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat for 25 minutes.
3. Working in 2 batches, puree the soup in a blender. Strain through a fine sieve set over a medium saucepan, pressing on the solids. Bring the soup to a simmer and stir in the cream. Add the reserved chopped shrimp and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the bisque into bowls and garnish with chopped tarragon. —Thibaut Clochet
MAKE AHEAD The bisque can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; rewarm and add the shrimp just before serving.
Ajo Blanco with Crab and Green Grapes
Active 40 min; Total 4 hr 40 min plus overnight soaking; Serves 6
Making almond milk is supersimple, and crucial for this recipe from F&W Best New Chef 2015 Katie Button of Cúrate in Asheville, North Carolina. Just soak almonds overnight in water, puree in a blender, then strain. Be sure to use skin-on raw almonds for the most flavor.
11/4 lbs. raw almonds (31/2 cups)
1 packed cup cubed (1 inch) crustless country bread
2 garlic cloves
2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar, plus more for seasoning
2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for seasoning
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
8 oz. lump crabmeat
18 green grapes, halved
1. In a food processor, pulse the almonds until finely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl and add 7 cups of cold water. Mix well, cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Working in 2 batches, puree the almonds with their soaking liquid in a blender until smooth. Strain the almond puree through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids. Discard the solids. You should have about 6 cups of almond milk. (If you don’t have enough, add cold water to make 6 cups.)
3. In a blender, combine 3 cups of the almond milk with 1/2 cup of the bread cubes, 1 garlic clove, 1 tablespoon of the vinegar and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Puree until smooth. With the machine on, slowly drizzle in half of the olive oil. Transfer the soup to the large bowl. Repeat with the remaining almond milk, bread, garlic, vinegar, salt and olive oil. Strain the soup through a fine sieve into another large bowl, pressing gently on the solids. Cover and refrigerate until very cold, about 4 hours.
4. Season the soup with salt and vinegar. Spoon the crab and grapes into 6 bowls, add the soup and serve. —Katie Button
MAKE AHEAD The soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
WINE Briny, creamy fino sherry: El Maestro Sierra.
Smoky Mussel Stew
Active 40 min; Total 1 hr Serves 12 as an hors d’oeuvre
3/4 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and pepper
1/2 lb. brussels sprouts, quartered
1 lb. fresh mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 cup dry white wine
1 medium white onion, quartered through the core and peeled
2 medium shallots, chopped
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 parsley sprigs, plus chopped parsley for garnish
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
Pinch of cayenne
2 cups heavy cream
1 large egg yolk
1/2 lb. smoked mussels
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1. Preheat the oven to 375°. On one side of a large rimmed baking sheet, toss the potatoes with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. On the other side of the baking sheet, toss the brussels sprouts with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 25 minutes, until the vegetables are tender and charred in spots.
2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, combine the fresh mussels with the wine, onion, shallots, butter, parsley sprigs, thyme, bay leaf and cayenne and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and cook over moderately high heat until the mussels open, 6 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the mussels to a bowl. Remove the mussels from their shells; discard the shells and any mussels that do not open. Strain the broth through a fine sieve.
3. Wipe out the saucepan. Add the strained broth along with any accumulated mussel broth from the bowl and bring to a boil. Add the cream and bring just to a boil.
4. In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with 2 tablespoons of the hot cream, then gradually whisk the mixture into the saucepan. Simmer the soup over moderate heat, whisking, until thickened slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the brussels sprouts, potatoes and the cooked mussels and smoked mussels and simmer until hot, about 3 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Serve the stew in small ramekins, garnished with chopped parsley. —Matt Jennings
WINE Vivid, briny Muscadet: 2014 Domaine de la Louvetrie Sur Lie.
MONKFISH STEW WITH SAFFRON BROTH
Monkfish Stew with Saffron Broth
Total 35 min; Serves 4
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
11/2 lbs. monkfish fillet, trimmed and sliced crosswise 1 inch thick
Kosher salt and pepper
2 shallots, thinly sliced
2 carrots, sliced into 1/2-inch rounds
1 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
Pinch of saffron threads
1/3 cup dry white wine
Basil leaves, for garnish
Steamed or mashed potatoes, for serving
1. In an enameled cast-iron casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Season the monkfish with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, turning, until light golden, 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the monkfish to a plate.
2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and the shallots to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the carrots and cook, stirring occasionally, until light golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in the thyme, saffron and wine and cook until reduced by half, about 1 minute. Add 1/2 cup of water along with the monkfish and any accumulated juices. Bring just to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat until the vegetables are tender and the fish is cooked through, about 15 minutes. Spoon the stew into shallow bowls, garnish with basil and serve with potatoes. —Mimi Thorisson
WINE Orange-scented, medium-bodied white Bordeaux: 2013 Château Graville-Lacoste.
DIY SEAFOOD GUMBO
Chef SLADE RUSHING of the legendary Brennan’s restaurant in New Orleans shares his secret to great gumbo: It’s all about taking the roux “where it needs to go,” from a pale beige to a dark, toasty mahogany brown.
Seafood Gumbo
Active 1 hr 20 min; Total 3 hr 50 min Serves 8
This superlative gumbo is loaded with Louisiana seafood, but you can substitute your local fish and shellfish.
CRAB STOCK
1 onion, quartered
1 head of garlic, halved
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. whole black peppercorns
2 gallons water
6 live blue crabs
GUMBO
1 cup canola oil
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 lb. andouille sausage, finely chopped (2 cups)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 celery ribs, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, finely chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped garlic (12 large cloves)
1/2 lb. okra, thickly sliced
1 lb. tomatoes, finely chopped
1/2 tsp. filé powder (see Note)
1/8 tsp. Creole seasoning, such as Zatarain’s
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 lb. jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over
1 lb. large shrimp, shelled and deveined
2 dozen freshly shucked oysters
2 Tbsp. hot sauce, such as Crystal or Tabasco, plus more for serving
Basmati rice and sliced scallions, for serving
MAKE THE CRAB STOCK
1. In a large pot, combine all of the ingredients except the crabs and bring to a boil. Add the crabs and simmer briskly over moderate heat for 1 hour, skimming as necessary. Strain the stock into a pot. You should have about 12 cups; add water if necessary, and reserve any extra stock for another use. Discard the crabs.
MAKE THE GUMBO
2. In a large pot, heat the oil. Whisk in the flour and cook over moderately low heat, whisking constantly, until the roux is deep mahogany brown with a nutty aroma, about 40 minutes.
3. Stir in the andouille, onion, celery, red and green bell peppers, garlic and okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, filé powder, Creole seasoning, thyme, bay leaf, salt and the 12 cups of crab stock. Simmer over moderate heat for 1 hour and 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
4. Stir in the crabmeat, shrimp, oysters and 2 tablespoons of hot sauce and cook until the shrimp are white throughout, about 3 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Ladle the gumbo into bowls and top with rice. Garnish with scallions; serve with hot sauce.
NOTE Filé powder is made from ground, dried sassafras leaves. It is available from cajungrocer.com.
MAKE AHEAD The gumbo can be prepared 3 days ahead through Step 3. Reheat gently and cook the seafood just before serving.
WINE Fragrant, honeyed Loire Valley Chenin Blanc: 2011 Domaine des Baumard Savennières.
ROUX LESSON
The roux is only done when “it smells like a roomful of toasted hazelnuts,” says Rushing.
START Heat the oil until hot, add the flour and whisk over moderately low heat until it is thoroughly incorporated.
WHISK Cook the roux, whisking constantly; it will turn light brown after about 15 minutes.
FINISH The roux is done when it is a deep, dark mahogany color and has a toasty aroma.
FINISHING THE DISH
Rushing tops each bowl of his seafood gumbo with just a small scoop of basmati rice and sliced scallions.
HUNTER’S CHICKEN STEW
Hunter’s Chicken Stew
Active 40 min; Total 1 hr 15 min; Serves 4
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
One 4-lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces
Kosher salt and pepper
All-purpose flour, for dusting
1 large onion, thinly sliced
2 large shallots, sliced
2 large garlic cloves, sliced
3/4 cup dry white wine
1 Tbsp. tomato paste
One 15-oz. can diced tomatoes
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 oz. dried porcini mushrooms, rinsed
2 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf
1/2 lb. cremini mushrooms, halved
Chopped parsley, for garnish
1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter. Season the chicken with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Add half of the chicken to the casserole and cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining butter and chicken.
2. Add the onion, shallots, garlic and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper to the casserole and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and tomato paste and simmer until slightly reduced, 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stock, porcini, thyme and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Nestle the chicken in the sauce, cover and simmer over moderately low heat until nearly cooked, about 25 minutes. Stir in the cremini mushrooms and cook, uncovered, until the chicken is cooked through, about 12 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Transfer the stew to plates, garnish with parsley and serve. —Mimi Thorisson
SERVE WITH Roasted potatoes.
WINE Earthy, red-berried red Burgundy: 2010 Joseph Faiveley.
Chunky Snapper and Root Vegetable Chowder
Total 1 hr 30 min; Serves 8
1 Tbsp. canola oil
4 oz. thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 yellow onion, chopped
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
5 cups fish stock, clam juice or chicken broth, warmed
3 baking potatoes (13/4 lbs.), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
3 turnips (10 oz.), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 parsnips (10 oz.), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 celery root (1 lb.), peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
11/2 tsp. chopped thyme
3 cups whole milk
11/2 lbs. skinless red snapper fillet, cut into 11/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Hot sauce
2 Tbsp. chopped parsley
Kosher salt and pepper
Chopped dill, for garnish
1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Add the bacon and cook over moderate heat until crisp. Add the onion and cook until beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Whisk in the flour and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the fish stock and bring to a simmer. Add the potatoes, turnips, parsnips, celery root and thyme and simmer over moderate heat until tender, about 20 minutes.
2. Add the milk and cook, stirring occasionally, until the soup is thickened, about 10 minutes. Stir in the snapper, lemon juice, Worcestershire and a dash of hot sauce and cook until the fish is just white throughout, about 5 minutes. Stir in the parsley and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the chowder to bowls and garnish with dill. Serve, passing more hot sauce at the table. —Mike Lata
WINE Vivid, full-bodied dry German Riesling: 2013 Leitz Eins Zwei Dry.
Erin French cooked pop-up dinners in a 1965 Airstream before opening The Lost Kitchen in Freedom, Maine. She specializes in unfussy, satisfying dishes like duck confit stew.
Duck Confit and White Bean Stew
Active 45 min; Total 1 hr 45 min plus overnight soaking; Serves 8
This easy take on the laborious French classic cassoulet has just three steps.
2 quarts low-sodium chicken broth
2 cups dried cannellini beans (3/4 lb.), soaked overnight and drained
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
Four 6-oz. whole confit duck legs
6 large shallots, thinly sliced
4 purple or orange carrots, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 thyme sprigs, plus leaves for serving
1 tsp. herbes de Provence
1 small head of radicchio, leaves torn into bite-size pieces
1. In a large pot, combine the chicken broth and beans with 4 cups of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat until the beans are tender, about 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the duck legs and cook over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until crisp and heated through, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool slightly, then coarsely chop or shred the meat. Set aside the crispy skin.
3. Add the shallots, carrots, garlic, thyme sprigs and herbes de Provence to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are caramelized and completely tender, about 20 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of water to the skillet and stir, scraping up any browned bits. Discard the thyme sprigs. Stir the shallots and carrots into the beans, then stir in the duck and radicchio. Garnish with thyme leaves and serve topped with the crispy skin. —Erin French
MAKE AHEAD The stew (without the radicchio) can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat gently and add the radicchio just before serving.
WINE Spiced, berry-scented Oregon Pinot Noir: 2013 Evesham Wood Willamette Valley.
Irish Lamb and Turnip Stew
Active 45 min; Total 3 hr; Serves 8
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the roux
31/2 lbs. boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces
Kosher salt and pepper
2 small yellow onions, quartered
8 garlic cloves, crushed
6 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1 cup dry white wine
4 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
3 small turnips, peeled and quartered
1/2 lb. medium carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces
8 fingerling potatoes (3/4 lb.)
3 Tbsp. heavy cream
Chopped parsley and mint, for garnish
Crusty bread, for serving
1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the 3 tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. Working in 3 batches, cook the lamb over moderate heat until browned all over, about 8 minutes per batch. Transfer to a large plate. Add the onions to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until golden, about 2 minutes; transfer to the plate.
2. Remove the casserole from the heat and add enough oil to make 6 tablespoons of fat. Whisk in the flour, then return the casserole to the heat. Add the wine and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, scraping the bottom of the casserole. Stir in 4 cups of water along with the stock and whisk until smooth and simmering, then add the lamb and onion mixture and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is tender, about 1 hour and 45 minutes.
3. Add the turnips, carrots and potatoes to the casserole and cook until tender, about 30 minutes. Stir in the heavy cream; season with salt and pepper. Ladle the stew into bowls and garnish with chopped parsley and mint. Serve with crusty bread. —April Bloomfield
WINE Earthy, spicy Côtes du Rhône: 2012 Domaine la Garrigue Cuvée Romaine.
Brisket and Mushroom Stew
Active 45 min; Total 5 hr; Serves 6 to 8
At the Drake Devonshire Inn in Canada’s Prince Edward County, chef Matthew DeMille likes to tinker with classic British recipes, as a nod to the inn’s name. He serves this luscious stew with a dollop of whipped cream and a cheddar-jalapeño biscuit on the side.
21/4 lbs. beef brisket, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
One 750-ml bottle dry red wine, such as Pinot Noir
10 garlic cloves, crushed
Sage leaves from 3 sprigs
Rosemary leaves from 2 sprigs
1/4 cup vegetable oil
Kosher salt and pepper
1/2 lb. mixed mushrooms, such as stemmed shiitake, button or oyster, cut into 1-inch pieces
6 celery ribs, chopped
2 medium yellow onions, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
1 quart beef stock or low-sodium broth
Whipped cream and Cheddar-Jalapeño Biscuits (p. 259), for serving
1. In a large bowl, cover the meat with the wine and add the garlic, sage and rosemary. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours or refrigerate overnight.
2. Using tongs, transfer the meat to a paper towel-lined plate; pat dry. Strain the marinade through a fine sieve set over a bowl; reserve the wine and discard the garlic and herbs.
3. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil until shimmering. Season the meat generously with salt and pepper and add half of it to the casserole in a single layer. Cook over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a large plate; repeat with the remaining meat.
4. Add the mushrooms, celery, onions and carrots to the casserole and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add the reserved wine to the casserole and simmer until reduced by three-quarters, about 10 minutes. Return the meat and any accumulated juices to the casserole along with the stock and return to a simmer. Cover the casserole and cook over low heat until the meat is very tender, about 2 hours.
5. Ladle the brisket stew into bowls and top with a dollop of whipped cream. Serve immediately, passing the Cheddar-Jalapeño Biscuits at the table. —Matthew DeMille
WINE Dark-berried, medium-bodied Pinot Noir: 2012 Hubbs Creek.
Spring Beef Stew
Active 30 min; Total 2 hr; Serves 4 to 6
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 lbs. beef chuck, cut into 11/2-inch pieces
Kosher salt and pepper
1 qt. chicken stock or low-sodium broth
6 shallots, halved
1/2 lb. carrots, cut into 2-inch lengths
11/2 cups frozen peas
5 oz. curly spinach
2 Tbsp. chopped dill
Crusty bread, for serving
1. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Season the meat with salt and pepper and add it to the saucepan in a single layer. Cook over moderately high heat, turning occasionally, until browned all over, about 10 minutes. Add the stock and shallots and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat until the meat is tender, about 11/2 hours.
2. Add the carrots to the saucepan and simmer until tender, about 12 minutes. Add the peas, spinach and dill and cook until the spinach is wilted, about 2 minutes. Ladle the stew into bowls and serve with crusty bread. —Justin Chapple
Asian Beef Stew
Active 45 min; Total 3 hr 30 min; Serves 4
Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley, the British sisters behind the Hemsley + Hemsley wellness blog, invigorate this stew with fish sauce, Asian spices and lemon juice. “We both just love sour flavors,” says Jasmine. “It’s our Filipino mum’s influence.”
2 Tbsp. coconut oil
5 lbs. English-cut short ribs
Sea salt and pepper
1 red onion, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
1 tsp. Chinese five-spice powder
3 whole star anise pods
3 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
2 celery ribs, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 Tbsp. Asian fish sauce
One 14.5-oz. can crushed tomatoes in juice
2 cups beef stock or broth
4 cups stemmed curly spinach (4 oz.)
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
Chopped cilantro, for garnish
1. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the coconut oil. Season the ribs with salt and pepper. Working in 2 batches, brown the ribs over moderately high heat, turning, 4 to 5 minutes per batch. Transfer the ribs to a large plate. Add the onion, garlic and ginger to the casserole and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 3 minutes. Stir in the five-spice powder, then add the star anise, carrots, celery and fish sauce and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, stock and short ribs to the casserole and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over moderately low heat, turning the ribs every hour, until they are very tender, about 21/2 hours.
2. Discard the star anise. Stir the spinach and lemon juice into the casserole and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the stew into bowls and garnish with cilantro. —Jasmine and Melissa Hemsley
WINE Peppery, fruit-dense California Syrah: 2013 McManis Family Vineyards.
Autumn Oxtail Stew
Active 45 min; Total 3 hr 45 min plus overnight marinating; Serves 4
Chef Dave Beran of Next in Chicago uses warm spices—cinnamon, peppercorns and juniper—to punch up this hearty recipe. He also adds pears and apples, which give the stew a lovely fruitiness.
6 sprigs each of rosemary, thyme and parsley
11/2 Tbsp. black peppercorns
One 3-inch cinnamon stick
1/2 Tbsp. juniper berries
1 bay leaf
4 lbs. meaty oxtails, cut into pieces
2 cups dry red wine
5 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
6 garlic cloves, crushed
4 small carrots, cut into 1-inch pieces
4 tomatoes, cut into 11/2-inch pieces
1 celery rib, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 small onion, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 fennel bulb, cored and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 leek, light green and white parts only, sliced 1 inch thick
2 small Honeycrisp apples, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 small Anjou pears, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
Kosher salt and pepper
Chopped parsley, for garnish
1. In a piece of cheesecloth, wrap the herbs, peppercorns, cinnamon, juniper berries and bay leaf and tie with kitchen twine. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, combine the herb and spice bundle, the oxtails, wine and stock; add 2 cups of water. The oxtails should be completely submerged; if necessary, add more water. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°. Transfer the oxtails to a plate. Bring the marinade to a simmer, skimming off any foam. Add the oxtails and all of the remaining ingredients except the salt, pepper and chopped parsley and bring to a boil. Press a sheet of parchment paper directly on the stew and cover tightly with foil. Braise the oxtails in the oven for about 3 hours, until the meat is very tender. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the oxtails to a plate. Transfer the vegetables to another plate. Discard the herb and spice bundle. If necessary, simmer the cooking liquid until slightly thickened.
3. Pick the oxtail meat off the bones in large pieces; discard the bones and any excess fat. Return the meat and vegetables to the casserole and bring to a simmer; cook for 5 minutes, until heated through. Season the stew with salt and pepper, garnish with chopped parsley and serve. —Dave Beran
MAKE AHEAD The oxtail stew can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; reheat gently before serving.
WINE Medium-bodied, black cherry-rich Oregon Pinot Noir: 2012 Rex Hill Willamette Valley.