Food & Wine Annual Cookbook 2016 - Dana Cowin (2016)
BREAKFAST & BRUNCH
OPEN-FACE OMELET WITH SPICY FETA AND ESCAROLE
Open-Face Omelets with Spicy Feta and Escarole
Total 20 min; Serves 2
Chef Ana Sortun of Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts, is a vegetable genius. Here she tops Middle Eastern-style omelets with a delicious mix of escarole and feta seasoned with scallion and jalapeño.
11/2 Tbsp. za’atar (see Note)
2 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
3 oz. sheep-milk feta cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup)
1 scallion, white part only, finely chopped
1/2 jalapeño, minced
3 large eggs
2 tsp. all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
3 cups shredded escarole
Pepper
1. In a small bowl, mix the za’atar with 2 tablespoons of the oil. In another bowl, mash the feta, scallion and jalapeño with 1 tablespoon of water until smooth.
2. In a small nonstick skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of the olive oil. In a bowl, beat the eggs with the flour, salt and 1 tablespoon of water (it’s OK if a few lumps remain). Pour half the mixture into the skillet and swirl the pan to form a thin omelet. Sprinkle half the escarole and half the feta mixture evenly over the eggs; cook over moderately low heat until the escarole starts to wilt, the feta melts and the omelet is just cooked through, about 3 minutes. Slide the omelet onto a plate and season with pepper. Repeat with the remaining oil, eggs, escarole and feta mixture.
3. Drizzle the za’atar oil over the omelets and serve. —Ana Sortun
NOTE If the Middle Eastern spice blend za’atar is unavailable, stir 2 tablespoons of olive oil with 1 teaspoon each of sesame seeds and dried oregano.
WINE Zesty, light-bodied Spanish white: 2014 Doniene Gorrondona Txakoli.
Baked Spring Vegetable Omelet with Goat Cheese and Mint
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 45 min Serves 4 to 6
Tara Stevens, who runs a little cooking school called The Courtyard Kitchen at Dar Namir in Fez, Morocco, created this recipe on the spur of the moment. “It was a way to use up a fridge full of eggs, goat cheese and mint the night before my family went on vacation,” she says. “I always have mint in the fridge because my housekeeper, Rachida, thinks it’s appalling if I don’t.”
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
3/4 lb. asparagus, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium white onion, thinly sliced
2 zucchini, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
3/4 cup thawed frozen peas
8 oz. goat cheese, crumbled
2 Tbsp. chopped mint
12 large eggs
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Coat a 21/2-quart baking dish with olive oil. In a medium saucepan of salted boiling water, blanch the asparagus until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and cool under cold running water; drain well.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the onion and zucchini and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the peas and asparagus until heated through. Transfer the vegetables to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and let cool slightly. Spread the vegetables in the prepared baking dish. Scatter the goat cheese and mint on top.
3. In a bowl, beat the eggs until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Pour the eggs over the vegetables and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until golden and set. Let cool for 30 minutes, then serve. —Tara Stevens
WINE Lively, crisp Pinot Grigio: 2014 Riff.
Fines Herbes Omelet
Total 10 min; Serves 2
Master chef Jacques Pépin vigorously stirs his eggs with a fork while they’re cooking to lighten them and form small curds for a soft, creamy omelet.
5 large eggs
2 Tbsp. minced parsley
1 Tbsp. minced tarragon
1 Tbsp. minced chives
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. pepper
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
11/2 tsp. canola oil
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the parsley, tarragon, chives, salt and pepper until light. In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat the butter and oil until the butter begins to foam. Add the eggs and cook over moderate heat, shaking the pan and stirring constantly with a fork, until tiny curds form and the eggs begin to set. Stop stirring and allow the eggs to cook undisturbed for 1 minute. Shake the skillet to loosen the omelet and, using a rubber spatula, fold one-third of the omelet over the center. Tilt the skillet and turn the omelet out onto a large plate, folding it over itself as you release it from the pan. Cut the omelet in half and serve immediately. —Jacques Pépin
WINE Creamy, fruit-forward Chardonnay-based Champagne: NV Pierre Gimonnet 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs.
CHEF TIP
Cracking Eggs
“Jacques Pépin taught me to crack eggs on a flat surface. Hitting them against the edge of a bowl makes it more likely you’ll get shell fragments in your food.”
—Greg Richie, Soco, Orlando, Florida
Quinoa-Dill Omelet with Feta
Total 30 min; Serves 2
1/4 cup red or black quinoa, rinsed and drained
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter
6 large eggs
Kosher salt
1/4 cup crumbled feta cheese
2 Tbsp. chopped dill
1. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook the quinoa until tender, about 10 minutes. Drain and return the quinoa to the pan. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes; fluff with a fork. Spread on a baking sheet and let cool to room temperature.
2. In a 9-inch nonstick skillet, melt the butter. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the quinoa and season with salt. Cook the eggs over moderately low heat, stirring, until almost set, 4 to 5 minutes. Top evenly with the cheese and dill and cook without stirring until set. Fold the omelet in half and serve hot. —Kay Chun
Open-Face Egg and Griddled Ham Breakfast Sandwiches
Total 30 min; Makes 12
1 dozen large eggs
Kosher salt and pepper
6 oz. thinly sliced baked ham
1 cup chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, tarragon and chives
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
6 slider buns, split and lightly toasted
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Pour 1 tablespoon of water into each cup of a 12-cup muffin tin. Crack an egg into each cup and season with salt and pepper. Bake the eggs for 13 to 15 minutes, until the whites are just firm and the yolks are still runny. Using a slotted spoon, immediately transfer the eggs to a plate.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, cook the ham over moderate heat, turning, until hot, about 2 minutes. In a small bowl, toss the herbs with the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.
3. Arrange the split buns cut side up on a platter. Top with the ham, eggs and herbs. Serve open-face. —Justin Chapple
Phoenicia Diner’s Breakfast Skillet
Total 10 min; Serves 1
The Phoenicia Diner in Phoenicia, New York, has an impressive list of “skillets” on its breakfast menu. This creamy scramble studded with smoked trout serves one, but it can be easily doubled or quadrupled.
1/2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 large eggs, beaten
2 oz. flaked smoked trout (1/3 cup)
1 Tbsp. crème fraîche
1 Tbsp. finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 Tbsp. snipped chives, plus more for garnish
Kosher salt
Toast, for serving
In a small cast-iron skillet, heat the butter until it starts to foam. Add the eggs, trout, crème fraîche, Parmigiano-Reggiano, the 1 tablespoon of chives and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, shaking the pan and stirring gently with a spatula, until small curds form and the eggs are just set, about 4 minutes. Garnish with snipped chives and serve with toast. —Melchor Rosas
TOSTADA CHILAQUILES
Tostada Chilaquiles
Total 1 hr; Serves 4
4 lbs. tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 large jalapeño, stemmed
2 cups packed chopped cilantro leaves and stems, plus small sprigs for garnish
1/4 cup garlic cloves
Kosher salt and pepper
1/4 cup canola oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
Twelve 6-inch tostadas
4 large eggs
One 15-oz. can black beans—rinsed, drained, warmed and seasoned with salt
Sliced radishes, sliced jalapeños and crumbled queso fresco, for garnish
1. In a large saucepan, combine the tomatillos and jalapeño with 8 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer over moderate heat, stirring, until the tomatillos are very soft but not falling apart, about 15 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatillos and jalapeño to a blender. Add 1 cup of the cooking liquid to the blender. Add the chopped cilantro and garlic cloves and puree until smooth. Season the salsa with salt and pepper. Discard the remaining cooking liquid.
2. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the tomatillo salsa and simmer for 5 minutes. Dip 1 tostada at a time in the tomatillo salsa, turning, until some of the salsa is absorbed but the tostada still holds its shape, about 15 seconds. Transfer the tostada to a large plate; repeat with the remaining tostadas. Transfer the remaining salsa to a bowl.
3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Crack the eggs into the skillet and cook sunny-side up over moderate heat, 3 to 4 minutes.
4. Place 1 tostada on each of 4 plates. Spoon some of the beans on top and cover with another tostada. Repeat with the remaining beans and 4 remaining tostadas. Top each stack with a fried egg. Garnish with the radishes, jalapeños, queso fresco and cilantro sprigs and serve with the remaining salsa. —Christina Nguyen
MAKE AHEAD The salsa can be refrigerated for 2 days; reheat before using.
WINE Crisp, zesty Sauvignon Blanc: 2014 Groth Napa Valley.
Brussels Sprout Frittata
Total 30 min; Serves 6
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 lb. brussels sprouts, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
1 small baking potato, peeled and sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
10 large eggs, beaten
1 tsp. smoked paprika
Thinly sliced scallions, for garnish
Hot sauce, for serving
Preheat the oven to 375°. In a large ovenproof nonstick skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the brussels sprouts, potato and onion and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden and tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in the eggs and paprika and transfer to the oven. Bake for 10 minutes, or until set. Garnish with scallions and serve with hot sauce. —Kay Chun
Mushroom Tortilla
Total 30 min; Serves 4
6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish, plus more for brushing
1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
3/4 lb. cremini mushrooms, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
8 large eggs
1. In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, heat the 6 tablespoons of olive oil. Add the onion and a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms and season with salt and pepper. Cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender and golden, about 7 minutes. Stir in the 1/4 cup of parsley.
2. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Pour the eggs into the skillet and cook over moderate heat, gently stirring and lifting the tortilla, until the edge is set and the center is still loose, about 7 minutes. Put a large, flat plate on top of the skillet and carefully invert the tortilla onto the plate. Slide the tortilla back into the skillet and cook until the center is set, 1 to 2 minutes longer. Slide onto a serving plate, brush with olive oil and garnish with parsley. Serve right away. —José Andrés
MAKE AHEAD The tortilla can be kept at room temperature for up to 3 hours.
WINE Lightly herbal Albariño: 2014 Lícia.
Five-Herb Frittata with Prosciutto and Parmesan
Total 15 min; Serves 2
Nancy Silverton, famed chef of the Mozza restaurant empire in L.A. and beyond, has strong opinions about frittatas. She prefers them to be creamy like scrambled eggs, with a variety of toppings, such as prosciutto, cheese and fresh herbs. Serve this frittata for brunch or, as Silverton does, as a side dish at dinner parties, allowing guests to cut wedges at the table.
4 large eggs
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. each finely chopped mint, parsley and chives
1 tsp. each finely chopped oregano and thyme
11/2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/2 oz. prosciutto, torn (2 slices)
Coarsely ground black pepper
Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese shavings, for serving
1. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the salt and 2 teaspoons of water. Beat in the mint, parsley, chives, oregano and thyme.
2. In a 10-inch nonstick skillet, melt the butter. Add the eggs and cook over moderately low heat, without stirring, until just beginning to set at the edge, about 3 minutes. Using a spatula, lift the edge and tilt the pan so the egg mixture can seep underneath. Continue to cook, lifting the frittata and tilting the pan occasionally, until the frittata is just set and creamy on top, 3 to 5 minutes longer. Scatter the prosciutto over the frittata and slide it onto a plate. Garnish with coarsely ground pepper and shaved Parmigiano and serve right away. —Nancy Silverton
Potato Peel Tortilla with Garlicky Aioli
Total 40 min; Serves 6
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, thinly sliced
4 cups scrubbed potato peels, chopped into 2-inch pieces
6 garlic cloves—3 finely chopped and 3 finely grated
4 scallions, chopped (1 cup)
1 dozen large eggs
1/2 tsp. pimentón de la Vera, plus more for sprinkling
Kosher salt and pepper
1/3 cup mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1. Preheat the oven to 450°. In a large ovenproof nonstick skillet, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil. Add the onion, potato peels, chopped garlic and 3/4 cup of the scallions and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and crispy in spots, about 10 minutes.
2. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the 1/2 teaspoon of pimentón and add to the skillet. Season with salt and pepper and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, until the eggs begin to set around the edge, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake the tortilla for 6 to 8 minutes, until just set.
3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise with the grated garlic, lemon juice and the remaining 6 tablespoons of olive oil; season with salt and pepper.
4. Invert the tortilla onto a large plate. Garnish with the remaining 1/4 cup of scallions and a sprinkling of pimentón and serve with the aioli. —Kay Chun
MAKE AHEAD The aioli can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.
WINE Minerally northern Italian Pinot Grigio: 2013 Livio Felluga.
Bacon, Egg and Crispy Bread Stir-Fry
Total 40 min; Serves 4
This one-skillet dish is a great way to use up leftover bread crusts. Toast and crumble them, then stir-fry until crisp and chewy.
6 oz. rustic whole-wheat bread crusts, torn into 2-inch pieces
4 large eggs
Kosher salt
1/4 cup canola oil
4 slices of bacon, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled fresh ginger
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
1 cup chopped scallions, plus more for garnish
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
11/2 Tbsp. soy sauce
Sambal oelek or other Asian chile paste, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Spread the bread crusts on a large rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 7 minutes, until lightly golden and just crisp. Let cool slightly, then break into 1/2-inch pieces.
2. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the canola oil. Add the eggs and cook over moderately high heat until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Fold the eggs over and cook until just set throughout, about 1 minute longer. Transfer to a plate and cut into 1/2-inch pieces.
3. In the skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil. Add the bacon and stir-fry over high heat until lightly browned but not crisp, about 3 minutes. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the bread pieces and 1/4 cup of water and stir-fry over moderately high heat until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the 1 cup of scallions, the lime juice and soy sauce and stir-fry for 1 minute. Stir in the eggs and season with salt. Garnish with scallions and serve with sambal and lime wedges. —Justin Chapple
WINE Citrusy, dry Australian Riesling: 2014 Jim Barry The Lodge Hill.
At Milktooth in Indianapolis, F&W Best New Chef 2015 Jonathan Brooks brilliantly redefines brunch with dishes like Red Cabbage and Fried Mortadella Okonomiyaki.
Red Cabbage and Fried Mortadella Okonomiyaki
Total 45 min; Serves 4
4 oz. fresh or frozen udon noodles
2 slices of bacon
3 large eggs
3/4 cup prepared dashi or chicken broth
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/4 lb. mortadella, diced
3/4 cup finely shredded red cabbage
2 Tbsp. shredded carrot
Kewpie mayonnaise, Sriracha, hoisin sauce, sliced scallions and furikake seasoning, for serving
1. In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook the udon noodles until tender, about 1 minute. Drain. Cut the noodles in half.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°. In a 10-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet, cook the bacon over moderately high heat until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain, then coarsely chop.
3. In a medium bowl, beat 2 eggs with the dashi. Whisk in the flour and salt just until a batter forms.
4. In the skillet, melt 11/2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the mortadella and stir-fry over moderately high heat until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add the cabbage and carrot and stir-fry until just wilted, about 1 minute. Stir in the udon and pour the batter into the skillet. Cook until the okonomiyaki is browned on the bottom and set around the edge, about 6 minutes. Transfer to the oven and bake for about 7 minutes, until the okonomiyaki is cooked through.
5. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt the remaining 1/2 tablespoon of butter. Crack the remaining 1 egg into the skillet and cook over moderate heat until the white is firm and the yolk is runny, 3 to 5 minutes.
6. Invert the okonomiyaki onto a platter. Top with the fried egg and chopped bacon. Drizzle with Kewpie, Sriracha and hoisin, garnish with sliced scallions and furikake and serve. —Jonathan Brooks
Vegetable Toad-in-the-Hole
Active 35 min; Total 1 hr 10 min; Serves 4
2 large eggs
3/4 cup whole milk
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. whole-grain mustard
3 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Sea salt and pepper
2 small carrots, cut into 2-inch lengths
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 medium onion, cut into 1/2-inch-thick wedges
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 oz. haricots verts
1 cup halved cherry tomatoes
1 Tbsp. finely chopped basil
1/2 tsp. finely chopped thyme
1/2 tsp. finely chopped rosemary
1. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with the milk, flour, 2 tablespoons of the mustard, 1 tablespoon of the oil and a generous pinch of salt. Let the batter stand for 15 minutes.
2. Preheat the oven to 400°. Set a steamer basket in a medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of water. Add the carrots, cover and steam over high heat until just tender, about 4 minutes.
3. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to a 9-inch-square baking pan and heat in the oven for 10 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the onion, garlic and a generous pinch of salt and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the onion just starts to soften, 3 minutes. Add the haricots verts and cook, stirring, until the onion is lightly browned and the beans are just softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the carrots, tomatoes, herbs and the remaining 1 teaspoon of mustard and cook, stirring, until hot, 1 minute. Season the vegetables with salt and pepper.
5. Pour the batter evenly into the hot pan and scatter the vegetable mixture on top. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until puffed and lightly browned. Cut into squares and serve. —Marte Marie Forsberg
LOADED POTATO WAFFLES
Loaded Potato Waffles
Total 40 min; Serves 4
Justin Chapple, star of F&W’s Mad Genius Tips videos, uses his waffle iron for extra-crispy hash brown-potato pancake mash-ups. He loads this potato waffle like a baked potato: with cheddar, bacon, sour cream and chives.
2 lbs. baking potatoes—peeled, coarsely shredded and squeezed dry
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
11/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
3/4 cup shredded extra-sharp yellow cheddar cheese, plus more for topping
3 Tbsp. melted unsalted butter, plus more for brushing
1/2 cup crumbled cooked bacon, plus more for topping
1/3 cup chopped chives, plus more for topping
Sour cream, for topping
1. Heat an 8-inch waffle iron and preheat the oven to 200°. In a large bowl, mix the potatoes with the eggs, flour, salt, baking powder, 3/4 cup of cheese and 3 tablespoons of butter. Fold in the 1/2 cup of bacon and the 1/3 cup of chives.
2. Brush the waffle iron with melted butter and spread one-fourth of the potato mixture onto it. Close and cook on high until the waffle is golden and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a rack in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture. Serve the waffles topped with sour cream, crumbled bacon, cheddar and chopped chives. —Justin Chapple
NOTE These waffles can be made in a Belgian waffle maker to serve 3: Spoon one-third of the mixture onto the iron instead of one-fourth.
Waffled Potato Blini with Smoked Salmon
Total 40 min; Serves 4
Cooking shredded potatoes in a waffle iron creates potato waffles that are crunchy on the outside and moist within. These elevated potato waffles are topped with smoked salmon, sour cream and dill.
2 lbs. baking potatoes—peeled, coarsely shredded and squeezed dry
1 medium onion, shredded
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
11/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
2 Tbsp. chopped dill, plus more for garnish
3 Tbsp. melted unsalted butter, plus more for brushing
Smoked salmon and sour cream, for serving
1. Heat an 8-inch waffle iron and preheat the oven to 200°. In a large bowl, mix the potatoes with the onion, eggs, flour, salt, baking powder, the 2 tablespoons of dill and 3 tablespoons of butter.
2. Brush the waffle iron with melted butter and spread one-fourth of the potato mixture onto it. Close and cook on high until the blini is golden and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a rack in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining potato mixture. Serve the blini topped with smoked salmon, sour cream and dill. —Justin Chapple
NOTE These waffles can be made in a Belgian waffle maker to serve 3: Spoon one-third of the mixture onto the iron instead of one-fourth.
Spicy Chicken-and-Sausage Hash
Total 45 min; Serves 6
1/4 cup canola oil
1/2 lb. baby Yukon Gold potatoes, chopped
1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 yellow bell peppers, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and pepper
1/2 lb. skinless, boneless chicken, cut into 1-inch pieces
1/2 lb. breakfast sausages, casings removed
One 141/2-oz. can chopped tomatoes
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 Tbsp. hot sauce
1/2 Tbsp. prepared horseradish
Biscuits, for serving
1. In a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the potatoes and cook over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, 7 to 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the potatoes to a plate.
2. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to the skillet. Add the onion and bell peppers, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Add the chicken and sausage and cook until browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce and horseradish and cook until the sauce is thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the potatoes until warmed through. Season with salt and pepper and serve with biscuits. —Colby Garrelts
WINE Juicy, medium-bodied red: 2013 Domaine Les Hautes Noëlles Hého Rouge.
Cheese, Ale and Potato Pie
Active 45 min; Total 2 hr 30 min Serves 8 to 10
To make this incredible savory pie, Claire Ptak, owner of the cult Violet Bakery in London, mixes potatoes with an ale-spiked cheese sauce. You can use any kind of ale—light or dark.
Two 14-oz. packages all-butter puff pastry, chilled
2 1/4 lbs. medium Yukon Gold potatoes
Kosher salt and pepper
3/4 cup ale, such as Bass
1 cup plus 2 Tbsp. heavy cream
15 oz. sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (5 cups)
3 large egg yolks, plus 1 large egg lightly beaten
11/2 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
11/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out each puff pastry sheet to a 10-by-14-inch rectangle. Stack the pastry sheets on a cookie sheet with a piece of parchment paper between them. Refrigerate until chilled.
2. In a large saucepan, cover the potatoes with 1 inch of water. Add salt, bring to a boil and cook over moderately high heat until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and cool under running water. Pat the potatoes dry, then peel and quarter them. Gently crush with your hand or a wooden spoon.
3. In a medium saucepan, boil the ale over high heat until reduced to 1/3 cup, about 5 minutes. Add the cream and cook, whisking, until reduced to 3/4 cup, about 5 minutes. Add the cheese and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until the sauce is smooth, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in the egg yolks, Worcestershire and mustard. Season the sauce with salt and pepper and let cool. Carefully stir in the crushed potatoes and season again with salt and pepper.
4. Arrange 1 chilled puff pastry sheet on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment paper and brush with some of the beaten egg. Spread the potato filling on top, leaving a 1/2-inch border all around. Top with the second sheet of puff pastry and press the edges together to seal; crimp decoratively. Brush the top of the pie with more of the beaten egg and cut a few slits for venting. Refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes.
5. Preheat the oven to 400°. Bake the pie for 25 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°, rotate the baking sheet and bake until the pastry is browned and the filling is bubbling, 25 to 30 minutes longer. Let cool slightly before serving. —Claire Ptak
BEER Balanced, malty English bitter: Wells Bombardier.
BUTTERMILK PANCAKES WITH QUINCE-AND-CRANBERRY COMPOTE
Buttermilk Pancakes with Quince-and-Cranberry Compote
Total 1 hr; Serves 4
COMPOTE
1 quince—peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cinnamon stick
2 Gala apples, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/3 cup fresh or thawed frozen cranberries
2 tsp. honey
Finely grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
PANCAKES
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
11/2 Tbsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
2 large eggs
11/2 cups buttermilk
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus 4 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
Pure maple syrup, for serving
1. Make the compote In a saucepan, combine the quince with the sugar, salt, cinnamon stick and 1/3 cup of water. Bring to a simmer and cook over moderately low heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the apples, cranberries, honey and lemon zest and juice and cook, stirring, until the fruit is tender but not broken down, 5 minutes. Let cool.
2. Make the pancakes In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and salt. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a hand mixer until pale yellow and doubled in volume, 4 minutes. Beat in the buttermilk, then beat in the melted butter. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the dry ingredients.
3. Heat a large nonstick skillet. Swirl 1 tablespoon of the cold butter around the pan until melted and foamy. Using a small measuring cup, scoop three 4-inch pancakes into the skillet. Cook over moderate heat until golden brown on the bottom and bubbles appear on the surface, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until golden on the bottom, 1 to 2 minutes more. Transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm. Repeat with the remaining butter and batter.
4. Stack the pancakes on plates and top with the compote. Dust with the confectioners’ sugar and serve with maple syrup. —Amanda Freitag
Lemony Apricot Clafoutis
Active 15 min; Total 1 hr; Serves 4
3 large eggs
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup half-and-half
3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
11/2 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
4 apricots—halved, pitted and cut into wedges
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with the granulated sugar, half-and-half, flour, lemon zest and salt until very smooth. Pour the batter into a 1-quart gratin dish or a 9-inch ceramic pie plate and arrange the apricots on top. Bake for about 30 minutes, until the custard is just set. Let stand for 10 minutes, then dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve. —Justin Chapple
BLUEBERRY DUTCH BABY
Blueberry Dutch Baby
Total 30 min; Serves 4
Cookbook author Ben Mims uses pomegranate juice to sweeten the batter for this light and berry-rich pancake.
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole milk
1/4 cup pomegranate juice
3 large eggs
6 Tbsp. salted butter
1 cup blueberries
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the milk, pomegranate juice and eggs until blended. In a 12-inch ovenproof skillet, melt the butter over high heat until foamy. Pour in the batter and sprinkle on the blueberries. Transfer the skillet to the oven and bake for 20 minutes, until the pancake is golden brown. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve immediately. —Ben Mims
Cardamom-Vanilla Biscuits
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr; Makes 12
F&W’s Kay Chun slices the dough for these fragrant, scone-like biscuits into wedges, so you can make them without a biscuit cutter. She serves the biscuits with fresh fruit and whipped cream.
21/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. baking powder
3/4 tsp. ground cardamom
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 stick plus 2 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cubed
11/4 cups heavy cream
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the sugar, baking powder, cardamom and salt. Using your fingertips, blend in the butter until pea-size pieces form. Stir in the heavy cream and vanilla just until a dough forms. Pat the dough into a 1-inch-thick round, about 9 inches in diameter. Cut into 12 equal wedges.
2. Transfer the wedges to the prepared sheet and bake for 40 minutes, until golden. Transfer the biscuits to a rack to cool slightly before serving. —Kay Chun
MAKE AHEAD The biscuits can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature overnight and reheated before serving.
Sugared Lemon-Rosemary Scones
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 45 min; Makes 8
21/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/3 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 Tbsp. baking powder
3/4 tsp. kosher salt
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
11/2 sticks cold unsalted butter, cubed
3/4 cup heavy cream, plus more for brushing
1. In a food processor, pulse the 21/4 cups of flour with the 1/3 cup of sugar, the rosemary, baking powder, salt and lemon zest. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal, with some pea-size pieces of butter still visible. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the 3/4 cup of cream until a shaggy dough forms. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and gently knead just until it comes together. Gently roll the dough into a 14-inch log, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour, or until firm.
2. Preheat the oven to 375° and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Slice the log into 8 rounds and transfer to the baking sheet. Brush the scones with cream and sprinkle generously with sugar. Bake for 22 to 25 minutes, until the scones are golden. Let cool slightly before serving. —Erin French
MAKE AHEAD The recipe can be prepared through Step 1 and refrigerated overnight.
Ginger-Molasses Scones
Active 20 min; Total 45 min; Makes 8
Whole-wheat flour and molasses give these scones a rich and hearty flavor.
2 cups all-purpose flour
11/2 cups whole-wheat flour
1 Tbsp. baking powder
1 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
1 stick plus 6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
3/4 cup crème fraîche
5 Tbsp. unsulfured molasses
1 Tbsp. honey, plus more for serving
1 tsp. finely grated orange zest
1/4 cup turbinado sugar, plus more for sprinkling
1 cup candied ginger (4 oz.), finely chopped
1 large egg, lightly beaten
Softened unsalted butter, for serving
1. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a food processor, combine the flours, baking powder, ground ginger, cinnamon, cloves and salt; pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse until pea-size crumbs form.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk the crème fraîche with the molasses, the 1 tablespoon of honey, the grated orange zest and the 1/4 cup of sugar. Add the molasses mixture to the food processor along with the candied ginger. Pulse until the dough just comes together, 30 seconds. Transfer to a lightly floured work surface and pat into a 12-by-4-inch rectangle, about 1 inch thick. Divide the dough into 4 equal rectangles, then cut each rectangle into 2 triangles.
3. Arrange the scones on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet and brush generously with the beaten egg. Sprinkle with sugar. Bake the scones until golden brown and slightly firm, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve warm with butter and honey. —Claire Ptak
MAKE AHEAD The unbaked scones can be wrapped in plastic and frozen for up to 1 month. Bake from frozen, allowing a little extra baking time.
DIY CROISSANTS
Baker ERICA SKOLNIK of Frenchie’s in Washington, DC, simplifies the method for making light and flaky croissants. Here, she gives a hands-on lesson for anyone who wants to tackle this iconic French pastry.
Croissants
Active 1 hr 15 min; Total 10 hr plus 2 overnight restings; Makes 18
SPONGE
11/4 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup water, at room temperature
One 1/4-oz. package active dry yeast
DOUGH
Extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing
13/4 cups plus 1 Tbsp. whole milk
3 cups all-purpose flour
3 cups bread flour
1/3 cup plus 1 Tbsp. sugar
11/2 Tbsp. kosher salt
Two 1/4-oz. packages active dry yeast
5 sticks (11/4 lbs.) cold unsalted European-style butter (82% butterfat), such as Plugrá
2 large eggs
1. Make the sponge In a medium bowl, combine the flour, water and yeast and mix well with a wooden spoon. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
2. Make the dough Let the sponge stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Lightly grease a large bowl with olive oil.
3. In a small saucepan, heat the milk until lukewarm. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine both flours with the sugar, salt and yeast. Scrape in the sponge. At low speed, drizzle in the milk and mix just until the dough comes together. Let stand for 10 minutes.
4. Knead the dough at low speed until it forms a ball, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the prepared bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Punch down and refrigerate the dough for 3 hours.
5. Meanwhile, on a sheet of parchment paper, arrange the sticks of butter side by side so they touch. Cover with another sheet of parchment. Using a rolling pin, pound the butter flat and roll out to a 10-by-12-inch rectangle. Refrigerate until ready to use.
6. Remove the butter from the refrigerator and let stand at room temperature for about 10 minutes, until soft and pliable—the butter should yield gently when you press it with your finger and hold the indent, like a ripe avocado. On a lightly floured surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough to a 12-by-28-inch rectangle. If the dough springs back, cover it with a kitchen towel and let rest for 5 minutes before rolling. Arrange the butter in the center of the dough so the short sides are parallel. Fold over the 2 short sides of the dough so they meet in the center; pinch together to seal. Pinch the long sides of the dough together to completely seal in the butter. Turn the dough so that a long side is facing you and roll out to a 12-by-28-inch rectangle. Starting from the bottom, fold the dough into thirds like a letter. Brush off any excess flour and wrap the dough in plastic. Chill until firm but pliable, about 1 hour.
7. Arrange the dough on a lightly floured surface with a short side facing you. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough to a 12-by-28-inch rectangle. Fold into thirds like a letter, wrap in plastic and freeze overnight. Before baking, let thaw in the refrigerator until semi-firm and pliable, about 3 hours.
8. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper. On a lightly floured surface, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the layered dough to a 13-by-36-inch rectangle. Using a pizza cutter or sharp knife, cut the dough crosswise to form nine 13-by-4-inch strips. Halve each strip lengthwise on the diagonal to make 18 long triangles. Starting at the short side, roll each triangle into a crescent shape. Arrange the croissants on the prepared sheets, tip side down and spaced 3 inches apart. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.
9. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with 1 tablespoon of water. Brush the croissants with the egg wash and bake until deep golden brown and crisp, 20 to 23 minutes. Transfer the croissants to a rack to cool.
BIGGER, BETTER CROISSANTS
Skolnik makes her croissants larger than the classic kind. “There are more layers to unravel,” she says. “People feel like they’re getting something special.”
MAKE AHEAD The baked croissants can be frozen for up to 1 month. Reheat in a 350° oven until warm and crisp.
PREP THE DOUGH
ADD WARM MILK and the yeasty “sponge” to the dry ingredients. Mix to make an elastic dough.
SHAPE THE BUTTER by pounding it flat, then rolling it into a rectangle between sheets of parchment paper.
FOLD THE DOUGH over the rectangle of butter, then pinch the seams together to form a sealed package.
DO THE FIRST TURN Roll out the dough into a large rectangle, then fold into thirds like a letter.
CROISSANT-SHAPING TUTORIAL
CUT THE DOUGH Roll out the layered dough; cut into wide strips, then cut in half diagonally to make long triangles.
FORM THE CROISSANTS Starting at the short side of each triangle, roll the dough to create a crescent shape.
GLAZE WITH AN EGG WASH For a shiny, burnished look, brush with a mixture of egg and water just before baking.
DATE SCONES WITH FLEUR DE SEL WHIPPED BUTTER
Date Scones with Fleur de Sel Whipped Butter
Active 20 min; Total 1 hr 30 min plus cooling; Makes 8
The breakfast menu at Jon & Vinny’s in L.A. is heavy on homey baked goods like these scones. The salty whipped butter is fabulous with the sugary dates.
BUTTER
1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 Tbsp. fleur de sel
SCONES
21/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1/4 cup granulated sugar
11/2 Tbsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. kosher salt
4 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter, cubed
1 cup chopped pitted dates
11/2 cups heavy cream, plus more for brushing
Turbinado sugar, for sprinkling
Jam, for serving
1. Make the butter In a medium bowl, beat the butter with the fleur de sel until fluffy, about 3 minutes.
2. Make the scones Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, sift the 21/4 cups of flour with the granulated sugar, baking powder and salt. Using your fingertips, rub the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles coarse crumbs. Add the dates and toss to coat in flour. Drizzle in the 11/2 cups of cream and stir until a dough forms. Cover with plastic wrap and let stand for 10 minutes.
3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead gently until it comes together. Pat the dough into a 5-by-10-inch rectangle. Cut into 8 equal squares and arrange on the prepared sheet. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 375°. Brush the tops of the scones with cream and sprinkle with turbinado sugar. Bake for about 25 minutes, until golden. Transfer the scones to a rack to cool completely. Serve with the salted whipped butter and jam. —Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo
Pumpkin-Chai Muffins
Active 15 min; Total 45 min plus cooling Makes 12
1 stick unsalted butter
1 Tbsp. crushed chai tea (from 4 bags)
2 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup pumpkin puree
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour
11/4 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
11/2 cups chopped walnuts
1. Preheat the oven to 350° and line a 12-cup muffin pan with paper or foil liners. In a small saucepan, melt the butter with the chai tea. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugar, pumpkin puree and chai butter until smooth. Whisk in the flour, baking soda and salt until incorporated.
2. Scoop the batter into the muffin cups and top with the walnuts. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Transfer the muffins to a rack to cool completely before serving. —Justin Chapple
Garlic Pain Perdu
Total 30 min; Serves 4
4 large eggs
2 cups milk
3 large garlic cloves, finely grated
11/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. finely chopped thyme
1/2 tsp. pepper
Eight 1-inch-thick slices of soft white French or Italian bread
Unsalted butter, for brushing
1. In a large baking dish, beat the eggs with the milk, garlic, salt, thyme and pepper. Add half the bread and let soak for 5 minutes, turning once.
2. Meanwhile, preheat a cast-iron griddle or skillet over moderately high heat; brush with butter. Remove the bread from the egg mixture, allowing the excess to drip off. Add the soaked bread to the griddle and cook, turning once, until golden and cooked through, 4 minutes. Transfer to a platter; keep warm. Butter the griddle again and repeat with the remaining bread. —Mimi Thorisson
Sour Cream Coffee Cake Muffins
Active 30 min; Total 1 hr 5 min; Makes 18
Two Old Tarts was a super-popular farmers’ market stand in New York’s Catskill Mountains before becoming a brick-and-mortar bakery and café. It’s famous for the sour cream coffee cake sold at the pastry counter; this is a muffin version.
1 cup pecans
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
11/2 tsp. cinnamon
1 stick plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
13/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. baking soda
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1 cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs
1 cup sour cream
11/2 tsp. pure vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 400° and line 18 muffin cups with paper or foil liners. Spread the pecans in a pie plate and toast in the oven until fragrant and lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Let cool completely.
2. In a food processor, combine the pecans with the brown sugar, cinnamon and 4 tablespoons of the butter and pulse until the pecans are finely ground and the crumb topping resembles wet sand.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a large bowl, using a hand mixer, beat the remaining 6 tablespoons of butter with the granulated sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 1 to 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs 1 at a time until incorporated, then beat in the sour cream, vanilla and 2 tablespoons of water. Beat in the dry ingredients.
4. Spoon half of the batter into the prepared muffin cups and sprinkle with one-third of the crumb topping. Top with the remaining batter and sprinkle the remaining crumb topping evenly over the batter. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the tops are browned and a toothpick inserted in the center of a muffin comes out clean. Transfer the muffins to a rack to cool for 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. —Scott Finley and John Schulman
Spiced Rice Breakfast Porridge
Active 10 min; Total 40 min; Serves 4
In this hearty porridge from F&W’s Kay Chun, steel-cut oats and brown rice come together under a buttery, sweet topping of caramelized bananas.
1 cup steel-cut oats (not quick-cooking)
1/2 cup short-grain brown rice (not quick-cooking)
One 3-inch cinnamon stick
1/3 cup plus 2 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 bananas, peeled and halved lengthwise
Roasted chopped almonds and heavy cream, for serving
1. In a medium saucepan, combine 4 cups of water with the oats, rice, cinnamon stick, 1/3 cup of the sugar and the salt; bring to a simmer. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and thickened, about 30 minutes. Discard the cinnamon stick.
2. Meanwhile, in a nonstick skillet, melt the butter. Press the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar on the cut sides of the bananas. Cook sugar side down over moderately high heat until caramelized, about 2 minutes. Top the porridge with the bananas. Serve with chopped almonds and cream. —Kay Chun
CREAMY STEEL-CUT OATS WITH DRIED CHERRIES AND ALMONDS
Creamy Steel-Cut Oats with Dried Cherries and Almonds
Total 30 min; Serves 4 to 6
Steel-cut oats are simply chopped whole oats; they’re super-nutritious and have a great chew. Marco Canora, chef at Hearth in New York City and author of A Good Food Day, likes to simmer the oats in whole milk or cream and almond milk with sweet spices for a breakfast with staying power.
1/2 cup dried sour cherries
1 cup whole milk or cream
1 cup unsweetened, unflavored almond milk
1 cup steel-cut oats
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 tsp. ground ginger
1/4 tsp. ground allspice
Kosher salt
1 Tbsp. pure maple syrup, plus more for drizzling
1/4 cup sliced almonds, plus more for topping
1. In a small bowl, cover the dried sour cherries with warm water and let stand until plumped and softened, about 15 minutes. Drain the cherries and discard the soaking water.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, combine the whole milk, almond milk and 1 cup of water and bring to a boil. Stir in the oats, cinnamon, ginger, allspice and 1/4 teaspoon of salt. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the oats are al dente and the porridge is creamy, 20 minutes.
3. Stir in the cherries, 1 tablespoon of maple syrup and 1/4 cup of almonds and season with salt. Serve topped with more maple syrup and almonds. —Marco Canora
MAKE AHEAD The porridge can be refrigerated for up to 2 days. Reheat gently with more milk or cream to loosen as necessary.
OATMEAL WITH STRAWBERRIES, TOASTED WALNUTS AND SKYR
Oatmeal with Strawberries, Toasted Walnuts and Skyr
Total 15 min; Serves 2
Grød, a stall in Copenhagen’s Torvehallerne market, specializes in porridge, with flavors that change seasonally. This lovely berry version is especially good because it’s not too sweet: There’s no added sugar.
1/2 cup walnuts
11/2 cups rolled oats (about 5 oz.)
11/2 cups milk
Pinch of kosher salt
6 strawberries, hulled and sliced
2 Tbsp. skyr (Icelandic yogurt) or Greek yogurt
1. Heat a medium saucepan. Add the walnuts and cook over moderately high heat, tossing, until toasted and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and coarsely chop. Wipe out the saucepan.
2. Combine the oats, milk and salt with 11/2 cups of water in the saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer, stirring often, until thickened, 7 to 8 minutes.
3. Spoon the oatmeal into bowls and sprinkle with the toasted walnuts. Top with the sliced strawberries and skyr and serve. —Lasse Andersen