Fried Chicken: Recipes for the Crispy, Crunchy, Comfort-Food Classic (2015)
CHAPTER 2
DEEP FRIED
TURKEY-STYLE WHOLE FRIED CHICKEN
CURRIED FRIED CHICKEN
DOUBLE-BATTERED FRIED CHICKEN
RICH CHICKEN
LEMON FRIED CHICKEN
BEER-BATTERED CHICKEN SANDWICH
EGG-BATTERED CHICKEN
HONEYED FRIED CHICKEN WITH HOT HONEY SAUCE AND BISCUITS
MEXICAN LIME FRIED CHICKEN TACOS
SWEET AND TANGY FRIED CHICKEN
HOMEMADE ORANGE CHICKEN
TEMPURA BITES WITH YUZU SAUCE
COCA-COLA SLATHERED WINGS
MARTINI-BRINED THIGHS
CHICKEN WINGS WITH RANCH DIPPING SAUCE
SAIGON STREET WINGS
CHINESE LOLLIPOP WINGS
KOREAN-STYLE FRIED CHICKEN WITH GOCHUJANG SAUCE
TENNESSEE HOT CHICKEN
JERK DRUMSTICKS
FRIED CHICKEN SKINS WITH LIME MUSTARD DRIZZLE
TURKEY-STYLE WHOLE FRIED CHICKEN
Frying an entire chicken is a great party trick, and it saves you the time and effort of cutting up the bird and battering the individual pieces. Most importantly, it yields crackly crispy skin and incredibly moist, tender meat. And since it’s a lot easier than submerging a giant, whole turkey in hot oil, you may never fry a turkey again. Carefully measure the depth of the oil to avoid overfilling and splashing any hot oil over the sides. SERVES 6
1 chicken (about 5 pounds)
2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
1 tablespoon paprika
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon celery seed
1 teaspoon chili powder
¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
Canola oil, for frying
Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and place it on the rack, breast side up.
In a small bowl, whisk together the brown sugar, paprika, salt, celery seed, chili powder, cayenne pepper, garlic powder, pepper, and allspice. Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon of the spice mixture inside the cavity of the chicken. Coat the outside of the chicken evenly with the remaining spice mixture and refrigerate the chicken, uncovered, for 4 to 5 hours. After chilling, let the chicken stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of canola oil over high heat to 365°F. Set a clean wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil, breast side down. The oil will not cover the chicken entirely. Fry for 15 minutes.
Taking care not to splash the oil, use tongs to turn the chicken breast side up. Fry for 10 minutes longer, maintaining a frying temperature of 340°F to 350°F. Transfer the chicken to the rack to rest for 20 minutes before carving.
CURRIED FRIED CHICKEN
The curry in the coating is just enough to give a hint of one of my favorite spices without being overpowering. Mixing it with cornstarch makes for a light texture with lots of crunch.SERVES 6
1 (13.5-ounce) can coconut milk
⅓ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 chicken (about 4 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 8 pieces
Canola oil, for frying
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup cornstarch
3 tablespoons curry powder
In a medium bowl, whisk together the coconut milk, lime juice, and salt. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag and pour the coconut milk mixture over the chicken, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 5 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of canola oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, and curry powder. Remove the chicken pieces from the coconut milk mixture and dredge them in the flour mixture. Discard the milk mixture. When all of the pieces have been coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Fry for 12 to 14 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F to 340°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
DOUBLE-BATTERED FRIED CHICKEN
I first became intrigued with the idea of battering chicken twice while working on a book for Mary Mac’s Tea Room in Atlanta. Chicken doesn’t get crispier than this and the extra dip makes the crunchiest layer. It’s actually best if no one talks during the meal because you won’t hear them over the sound of your chewing. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 8 pieces
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt
1¾ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Peanut oil, for frying
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup water
Arrange the chicken in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the pepper over the chicken. Cover and refrigerate for 3 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 355°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together 1 cup of the all-purpose flour, the water, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper, and in a separate shallow bowl, the remaining 2 cups of flour, 2 teaspoons of salt, and 1 teaspoon of pepper.
Dip each chicken piece in the wet batter first and then coat with the dry flour. Once all pieces have been coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Since the thick batter can drip, you may want to work very close to the stove to prevent batter dripping on the way to the fryer.
Fry for 18 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
RICH CHICKEN
I remember stories about my grandmother adding water to evaporated milk to get by in tough times. I’m sure she would have thought this recipe extravagant, but the ultrarich, silky chicken bath is a luxury that nearly everyone can now afford. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 8 pieces
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons ground white pepper
1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk
1 egg
Peanut oil, for frying
3 cups all-purpose flour
Arrange the chicken in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and sprinkle the salt and pepper over the pieces. Cover and refrigerate for 12 hours.
In a mixing bowl, whisk together the evaporated milk and egg.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 360°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Place the flour in a shallow bowl. Lightly dredge the chicken in the flour, shaking off any excess. Dip the pieces in the evaporated milk mixture, coating them very well, then dredge again in the flour, shaking off any excess. Once all the pieces have been coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches.
Fry for 12 to 15 minutes, maintaining a frying temperature of 350°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
LEMON FRIED CHICKEN
Our baby girl, Adair, asks for this, her top-choice fried chicken, at least twice a week. Since she’s sampled more types than most children will get to know in a lifetime, I think it’s a reflection of her good taste. The outside is supercrispy, delivering just enough pucker power starting with the first bite. The meat is lemony and wonderfully juicy. SERVES 6
1 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons small capers, packed in brine, drained and coarsely chopped
1¼ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (about 4 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
Canola oil, for frying
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 cups buttermilk
1 egg
2 cups panko (Japanese-style bread crumbs)
½ cup finely grated lemon zest (about 8 lemons)
1 teaspoon salt
Combine the lemon juice, milk, capers, and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper in a zip-top bag. Add the chicken, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 3 to 5 hours. Remove the pieces from the lemon juice mixture, drain, and discard the juice.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of canola oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Place 1 cup of the flour in a shallow bowl. In one bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and egg, and in another bowl, the panko, lemon zest, salt, and the remaining 2 cups of flour and 1 teaspoon of pepper.
Dredge each chicken piece in the flour, dip in the buttermilk mixture, and dredge in the panko mixture. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Once all the pieces have been coated, carefully place the larger ones in the hot oil. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes. Lower the remaining pieces into the hot oil and fry for 12 to 14 more minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F to 340°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
BEER-BATTERED CHICKEN SANDWICH
Nearly everyone loves a fried chicken sandwich. This version does not disappoint. Choose a malty ale, such as Bell’s Best Brown, or a good seasonal beer from your favorite local brewery. A rich, caramel-kissed brew helps the flavors hold up all the way through frying. This batter is light and airy, similar to tempura. Using two cups of beer leaves you some extra in the bottle, not a bad problem to have—just drink it! SERVES 6
¼ cup kosher salt
2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
3 cups water
1 white onion, sliced
2 cups ice
6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Peanut oil, for frying
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups brown ale beer
Lime Slaw (recipe follows), for serving
6 sesame seed buns
In a medium saucepan, combine the kosher salt, sugar, and water over medium-low heat and whisk until the salt dissolves. Remove from the heat and stir in the onion and the ice. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag. Once the brine has cooled and the ice has melted, pour over the chicken, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 5 to 6 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 335°F. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets with a wire rack on each pan.
Remove the chicken from the brine, drain, and discard the brine.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, cayenne pepper, salt, and beer.
Dip all of the chicken pieces in the batter and transfer to one of the prepared baking sheets to allow the excess batter to drip. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil and fry for 10 to 13 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F to 325°F. Drain the chicken on the clean wire rack.
Top the fried chicken with the slaw and serve in the sesame seed buns.
LIME SLAW
MAKES 6½ CUPS
⅓ cup mayonnaise
½ cup white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
3 tablespoons sugar
Zest of 1 lime
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
6 cups thinly sliced napa cabbage
½ red onion, sliced into thin strips
⅔ cup shredded carrot
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, mustard, sugar, lime zest, salt, and pepper. Add the cabbage, onion, carrot, and parsley to the bowl and toss to coat with the dressing. Serve immediately.
EGG-BATTERED CHICKEN
Like many aspects of frying chicken, adding eggs to the batter sparks debates among diehard fans. The half dozen eggs in this recipe could surely stir the discussion pot. Self-rising flour causes a little puff on the outside while the eggs contribute a nice crunch. Adding garlic to the oil flavors it just enough without being overpowering. SERVES 4
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 4 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
2½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon onion powder
2½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground mustard
¼ teaspoon ground thyme
Vegetable oil, for frying
4 cloves garlic
6 eggs
4 cups Southern self-rising flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
2 teaspoons celery salt
Arrange the chicken pieces on a rack placed over a rimmed baking sheet. In a small bowl, whisk together 2 teaspoons of the salt, the onion powder, ½ teaspoon of the pepper, the mustard, and thyme. Sprinkle over both sides of the chicken pieces. Chill the chicken, uncovered, for 4 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Add the garlic to the hot oil and cook for about 2 minutes. Remove the garlic from the oil and discard.
To make the batter, in one bowl, whisk together the eggs, the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper, and in another bowl, the flour, the remaining 1½ teaspoons of pepper, and the celery salt.
Dredge the chicken pieces first in the flour mixture, then dip in the egg mixture, allowing the excess to drip off. Dredge the pieces again in the flour mixture.
Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Once all of the chicken has been coated, carefully place the larger pieces in the hot oil. Fry for 2 minutes. Place the remaining pieces in the hot oil and fry for 12 to 14 more minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
HONEYED FRIED CHICKEN WITH HOT HONEY SAUCE AND BISCUITS
A sweet kiss of honey is a wonderful gift to fried chicken. This recipe is a favorite of my children, and they eat it as fast as I can get it on their plates. The herbes de Provence add color to the crispy outside and a floral touch to the flavor. Serve the chicken with biscuits and a generous drizzle of Hot Honey Sauce for a meal that just might become a family favorite in your home, too. SERVES 6
3 cups water
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons salt
⅓ cup turbinado sugar
2 cups ice
1 chicken (about 4 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
Vegetable oil, for frying
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 cup half-and-half
⅓ cup honey
1 cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons herbes de Provence
Buttermilk Biscuits (recipe follows), for serving
Hot Honey Sauce (recipe follows), for serving
To make the brine, in a saucepan, combine the water, 2 tablespoons of the salt, and the sugar over medium heat, stirring until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Remove the saucepan from the heat, allow the brine to cool, and add the ice. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag, pour the brine over it, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 6 hours.
Remove the chicken from the brine and drain, discarding the brine.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches vegetable oil over high heat to 340°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a medium bowl, whisk together 2 cups of the flour, the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt, and the pepper. In a medium bowl, whisk together the half-and-half and honey. In a third large bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 cups of flour, cornstarch, and herbes de Provence.
Dredge each chicken piece in the first flour mixture, dip in the half-and-half mixture, and then dredge in the herbed flour mixture. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Once all of the pieces have been coated, carefully place the larger ones in the hot oil. Fry for 2½ to 3 minutes. Lower the remaining pieces in the hot oil and fry for 14 more minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F to 335°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
Serve with honey sauce and buttermilk biscuits.
BUTTERMILK BISCUITS
MAKES 16 BISCUITS
1½ to 2½ cups Southern self-rising flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
¼ cup vegetable shortening
⅔ cup buttermilk
¼ cup heavy cream
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Place 1½ cups of the flour in a large bowl. Add the shortening and use your fingers to break it up and distribute it into the flour. Add the buttermilk and heavy cream, stirring just until the flour becomes moist.
Sprinkle about ¼ cup of the flour on the counter to cover your work surface and turn the dough out onto it. Flour your hands and knead the dough 4 or 5 times by folding it over and pressing down with the heels of your hands. Add as much of the remaining flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, as needed to make a smooth dough that is not sticky.
Pat the dough into a ¾-inch-thick disk and cut biscuits out with a 2-inch round cutter, pressing down without twisting the cutter. Combine the dough scraps, pat to ¾ inch thick, and cut into biscuits. Place biscuits, with sides touching, on an ungreased, light metal rimmed baking sheet.
Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until lightly browned.
HOT HONEY SAUCE
MAKES ABOUT ¼ CUP
¼ cup honey
1 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco
¼ teaspoon dried crushed pepper
In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients. Cover and store at room temperature for up to 1 day.
MEXICAN LIME FRIED CHICKEN TACOS
Packed with spices and lime, this chicken is the next best thing to crossing the border for a meal. Each crispy piece screams to become the coveted perfect taco. The batter fries up to be lusciously dark and crunchy. A burst of heat from fresh jalapeños, zip from cilantro, and sweetness from honey add the perfect finish. SERVES 6
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tablespoon honey
2 chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, chopped
3 green onions, green and white parts, sliced
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon plus ½ teaspoon salt
1¼ pounds chicken tenders (about 12 tenders)
Peanut oil, for frying
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 (5-ounce) can evaporated milk
1 egg
1 tablespoon adobo sauce
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
½ teaspoon dried oregano
12 (6-inch) corn tortillas
Shredded purple cabbage, for serving
Crumbled Cotija, for serving
Lime wedges, for serving
Sour cream, for serving
Salsa, for serving
Hot sauce, such as Tabasco, for serving
To make the marinade, in a bowl, whisk together the lime juice, honey, chipotle peppers, green onions, 2 teaspoons of the chile powder, and ½ teaspoon of the salt. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag, pour the marinade over it, seal the bag, rub to coat the chicken, and refrigerate for 3 hours. Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the marinade.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a shallow bowl, whisk together 1 cup of the flour, 1 teaspoon of the cumin, 1 teaspoon of the coriander, the remaining 1 teaspoon of chile powder, and 2 teaspoons of the salt. In a second bowl, whisk together the evaporated milk, egg, and adobo sauce, and in a third bowl, the remaining 3 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of coriander, and 1 teaspoon of cumin, and the white pepper and oregano. Dredge each chicken tender in the first flour mixture, dip in the evaporated milk mixture, and dredge in the second flour mixture. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Once all of the tenders have been coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry for 5 to 7 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F to 340°F at all times. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
Place one tender on each corn tortilla and top with cabbage and cotija. Serve with lime wedges, sour cream, salsa, and hot sauce.
SWEET AND TANGY FRIED CHICKEN
Every now and then I land on a dish with a seemingly magical combination of spice, sugar, and zing—a dish where every bite ignites a spark of pure eating pleasure. I maintain that this is one of those dishes. When I want to bring a tangy, sour note to the flavor party, I like to serve the chicken with spicy pickled okra or pickled cherry peppers on the side. Look for sorghum flour in specialty grocery stores or gluten-free sections of larger markets. SERVES 6
4 cups apple juice
⅓ cup kosher salt
2 red chile peppers, sliced
1 white onion, sliced
2 cups ice
1 chicken (about 2 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
Lard, for frying
2 cups Southern self-rising flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
⅔ cup sorghum flour
1¼ teaspoons ground chipotle chile powder
1 teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup milk
1 egg
To make the brine, in a small saucepan, combine the apple juice and kosher salt, bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook for about 10 minutes, or until the salt is completely dissolved. Add the chile peppers and onion. Remove the saucepan from the heat and add the ice. Let the brine sit until cooled and the ice has melted, about 10 minutes.
Combine the brine and the chicken in a large bowl, submerging the meat. Cover and chill for 12 hours.
Remove the chicken from the brine and place on a paper towel-lined plate, discarding the brine. In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat the lard over medium-high heat to 365°F. It should be 3 inches deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together the self-rising flour, sorghum flour, 1 teaspoon of the chile powder, the salt, and pepper and in a second bowl, the milk, egg, and remaining ¼ teaspoon of chile powder.
Dredge each chicken piece in the flour, dip in the milk mixture, and dredge in the flour again. Once all of the pieces are coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Fry for 13 to 15 minutes, or until dark brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F to 340°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
HOMEMADE ORANGE CHICKEN
Chinese-style orange chicken is a regular on take-out menus and in grocery store freezer cases, but this bright and fresh homemade recipe is a much improved version of the premade classic. On top of that, it’s pretty enough to serve for company and simple enough for weeknights. SERVES 4
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1½-inch pieces
ORANGE SAUCE
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons light sesame oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
1½ tablespoons soy sauce
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Vegetable oil, for frying
1¼ cups cornstarch
¼ cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground ginger
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Steamed rice, for serving
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted, for garnish
2 green onions, green and white parts, thinly sliced, for garnish
1 red chile pepper, thinly sliced, for garnish
To make the marinade, combine the orange juice and soy sauce in a large zip-top bag. Add the chicken pieces, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 1½ to 3 hours.
To make the orange sauce, in a heavy stainless-steel skillet, heat the vegetable oil and sesame oil over medium heat. Add the ginger and garlic and sauté for about 45 seconds, or until fragrant and lightly browned. Add the vinegar and soy sauce to the skillet and cook for 1 minute. In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, honey, and the 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Pour the orange juice mixture into the skillet, bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil over high heat to 375°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together the the 1¼ cups of cornstarch, flour, salt, ginger, and cayenne pepper.
Remove the chicken from the zip-top bag and drain in a colander. Working with a few pieces at a time, dredge in the cornstarch mixture. Fry the chicken for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown. Drain pieces on the wire rack.
Warm the orange sauce over low heat. In a large mixing bowl, toss together the fried chicken pieces and the warmed orange sauce.
Serve over steamed rice and garnish with toasted sesame seeds, green onions, and chile pepper slices.
TEMPURA BITES WITH YUZU SAUCE
Yuzu is a Japanese citrus that has a sour and bright flavor. It is nearly impossible to find fresh yuzus in America, but the juice is readily available in Asian markets. You can substitute 2 tablespoons of freshly squeezed lime juice and 1 tablespoon of freshly squeezed orange juice if the yuzu juice is tough to find. Choose a sake that is very dry to avoid extra sweetness. Gochujang is an extremely flavorful fermented Korean chile paste.
As with all tempuras, serving the chicken immediately is a necessity. Also, wait until right before frying to combine the dry and wet ingredients for the batter. SERVES 6
YUZU SAUCE
¾ cup mayonnaise
3 tablespoons yuzu juice
1 tablespoon gochujang
1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
2⅓ pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts
1½ cups cake flour
1½ cups rice flour
¾ teaspoon salt
1 egg
1¼ cups club soda
½ cup sake
Peanut oil, for frying
To make the sauce, in a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, yuzu juice, gochujang, parsley, and chives. Refrigerate in an airtight container until needed, or up to 2 days.
Cut the chicken breasts into 1-inch pieces. In a bowl, whisk together the cake flour, rice flour, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, club soda, and sake.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 375°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Immediately before frying, pour the club soda mixture into the flour mixture and whisk to combine.
Working with half of the chicken pieces at a time, dip into the batter. Once half of the pieces are battered, carefully place them in the hot oil.
After 1 minute, use a spider or slotted spoon to gently separate the pieces in the hot oil. Fry for 4 to 5 more minutes, or until lightly golden. Maintain a frying temperature of 350°F.
Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Serve the chicken immediately with the sauce on the side.
COCA-COLA SLATHERED WINGS
One of my dearest friends in and out of the kitchen, cookbook author Virginia Willis, is praised quite often for her Coca-Cola Glazed Wings. I’ve never heard of a soul who didn’t love them. Eat them once and you’re hooked. She broils hers and, of course, I fry these, but either way, they’re addictive. Diet Coke just won’t do here. Buy the classic. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 cup Coca-Cola
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1½ cups firmly packed light brown sugar
3 jalapeños, finely chopped, plus 2 jalapeños, sliced, for serving
3¾ to 4 pounds chicken wings, wing tips removed and cut in half at the joint
Vegetable oil, for frying
Zest from 1 lime
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Cilantro, for serving
To make the glaze, bring the Coca-Cola, ¼ cup of the lime juice, the brown sugar, and the chopped jalapeños to a boil in a small saucepan. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer until syrupy, about 30 minutes, stirring often. Keep the sauce warm over low heat.
Toss the wings in the remaining 2 tablespoons of lime juice and allow them to marinate for 10 minutes.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil over high heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together the zest, flour, salt, and pepper. Toss the wings in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess flour.
Once all the wings are coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry for 10 to 12 minutes or until light brown, maintaining a temperature of 315°F to 325°F.
Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
While they are still warm, transfer the wings to a large mixing bowl and toss them with the Coca-Coca glaze.
Serve with sliced jalapeños and cilantro.
MARTINI-BRINED THIGHS
If you like a dirty martini, you’ll love this chicken. Infused overnight with a hefty dose of olive juice, the meat has a salty tang and briny deliciousness. Of course, you’ll end up with a jar of olives but no brine, so I suggest using the olives to make your favorite tapenade. Alternatively, refill the jar with vodka or gin for a jump start on your the next cocktail hour.SERVES 4
1¾ cups Manzanilla olive brine
4 sprigs rosemary
3 cloves garlic
8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 4 pounds)
Peanut oil, for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup dark rye flour
Manzanilla olives, for serving
For the brine, in a large bowl, whisk together the olive brine, rosemary, and garlic cloves. Add the chicken thighs and submerge, cover, and refrigerate for 12 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 365°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a shallow bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour and dark rye flour.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, reach into the bag and turn each thigh over to make sure it’s heavily coated with the brine. Remove each thigh from the bag and dredge in the flour. Discard the brine. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry for 13 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F to 350°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
Serve with Manzanilla olives.
CHICKEN WINGS WITH RANCH DIPPING SAUCE
My college roommate smothered almost everything on her plate with ranch dressing, and I still think of her whenever I am within a fork’s length of dill. If you love that ranch flavor as she did, you will find these nearly addictive. I think you’ll agree my ranch mix is a big improvement over the prepared versions. SERVES 4 TO 5
RANCH DIPPING SAUCE
1 cup buttermilk
½ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon dried chives
1 teaspoon dried dill
1 teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon garlic powder
3½ pounds chicken wings, wing tips removed and cut in half at the joint
¼ cup dried dill
2 tablespoons dried chives
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons dried parsley
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Peanut oil, for frying
2 cups buttermilk
2 cups all-purpose flour
To make the dipping sauce, in a small bowl, whisk together the 1 cup of buttermilk, sour cream, chives, dill, salt, and garlic powder. Refrigerate in an airtight container until needed or up to 2 days.
Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Place the chicken wings on the rack.
In a small bowl, whisk together the dill, chives, 1 teaspoon of the salt, parsley, onion powder, garlic powder, and pepper. Transfer 2 tablespoons of the spice mixture to a small bowl and stir in the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt; set aside.
Sprinkle all sides of the wings generously with the remaining spice mixture and refrigerate on the rack, uncovered, for 3 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 375°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Pour the 2 cups of buttermilk into a shallow bowl. In a bowl, whisk the reserved spice mixture into the flour.
Dip each chicken wing into the buttermilk and dredge in the flour mixture. Once all are coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry for 5 to 7 minutes, or until golden brown. Maintain a frying temperature of 350°F to 360°F. Drain the wings on the wire rack.
Serve with the dipping sauce on the side.
SAIGON STREET WINGS
If you want a wing you can’t put down, this is it. Commonly sold from street vendors in Saigon, these wings have a comforting saltiness that’s bursting with umami, thanks to a healthy dose of fish sauce. The garlic is ideal when it’s crispy and browned. SERVES 4 TO 6
4 pounds chicken wings, wing tips removed and cut in half at the joint
14 cloves garlic
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 cup fish sauce
1 cup palm sugar, chopped, or firmly packed light brown sugar
¼ cup vegetable oil, plus more for frying
2 cups rice flour
Cilantro, chopped, for serving
Place the wings in a large zip-top bag.
To make the marinade, in a large bowl, smash 10 cloves of the garlic and the salt together until they form a paste. Add the fish sauce, sugar, and ¼ cup of the vegetable oil, and whisk until the sugar dissolves. Pour half of the marinade over the wings in the bag, rub to coat the chicken, seal, and refrigerate overnight. Cover and chill the remaining half of the marinade until you’re ready to fry the chicken.
Pour the reserved marinade (the portion that did not touch the chicken) into a small saucepan, bring to a boil, decrease the heat, and simmer until reduced and syrupy, about 35 minutes.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Place the rice flour in a large bowl. Remove the wings from the zip-top bag, discarding the marinade. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in batches. Dredge half of the wings in the rice flour until well coated. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry for 10 to 13 minutes, or until golden brown. Maintain an oil temperature of 325°F. Drain the wings on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
After all of the wings have been fried, mince the remaining 4 cloves of garlic and place in a fine-mesh wire strainer. Carefully dip the strainer into the hot oil, just deep enough to submerge the garlic, and cook for 10 to 15 seconds or until lightly browned. Transfer the fried wings to a large bowl, add the cooked marinade, and toss to coat. Transfer the glazed wings to another large bowl and toss with the fried garlic. (Using two bowls prevents the garlic from being coated in the glaze.) Serve with chopped cilantro.
CHINESE LOLLIPOP WINGS
Drumettes are the parts of wings that look like tiny drumsticks. They are perfect for appetizers or tailgating before a big game. Using a paring knife to transform them into the shape of lollipops takes a little time, but it’s worth the oohs and aahs from hungry fans. SERVES 4
5 cloves garlic, peeled
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon hot chile sauce, such as Sriracha
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons light sesame oil
1 egg, beaten
3 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
2 pounds chicken drumettes
Peanut oil, for frying
Cilantro, chopped, for serving
To make the marinade, process the garlic and ginger in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until finely chopped. Add the salt, chile sauce, soy sauce, sesame oil, egg, cornstarch, flour, and pepper and pulse twice to combine. Transfer the marinade to a large mixing bowl.
To form the lollipops, grab the exposed bone at the end of each drumette and use a paring knife to push all of the meat to the other end, exposing the bone and forming a rounded lump of meat at one end (to look like a lollipop). The bone should be stripped of all meat to form about a 1-inch stick for the lollipop. Transfer the chicken to the bowl with the marinade, toss to coat, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 2 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the marinade. Carefully place the lollipops in the hot oil. Fry for 6 to 8 minutes, or until golden brown. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F. Drain the lollipops on the wire rack.
Serve sprinkled with cilantro.
KOREAN-STYLE FRIED CHICKEN WITH GOCHUJANG SAUCE
Korean fried chicken is shaken midfry to remove crispy bits and pieces that Americans treasure on their fried birds. The result is a thin but beautifully brittle coating. A frying basket (think fast-food french fries) makes the shaking process easier, but a wire mesh colander is a good substitute. Gochujang is a fermented Korean chile paste that’s almost electric red in color and explodes with flavor. Don’t skip the sauce; it’s essential. Kimchi is a perfect accompaniment for this flavorful chicken. SERVES 4 TO 6
GOCHUJANG SAUCE
4 cloves garlic
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
¼ cup gochujang
¼ cup unseasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon fish sauce
Canola oil, for frying
4 cups rice flour
2 cups water
4 chicken wings, wing tips removed
4 chicken drumsticks
4 chicken thighs
To make the sauce, pulse the garlic and ginger in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until finely chopped. Add the gochujang, rice vinegar, soy sauce, honey, and fish sauce and pulse just until combined. Pour the sauce into a large mixing bowl and set aside.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of canola oil over high heat to 340°F.
Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet for draining the chicken. Submerge a frying basket in the oil, or place a wire mesh colander nearby. Place a rimmed baking sheet near the fryer. (You’ll shake the fried chicken over the baking sheet.)
Put 2 cups of the rice flour in a shallow bowl. In a bowl, stir the remaining 2 cups of rice flour with the water to make a very thin paste.
Dredge the chicken pieces in the flour, then dip them into the flour paste to coat. Once all pieces have been coated, carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry for 10 minutes. Maintain a frying temperature of 340°F.
If using the frying basket, lift it from the oil and vigorously shake the basket over the baking sheet, allowing the crispy bits of batter to fall off. Let the chicken rest in the basket out of the oil for 2 minutes.
If using a colander, use a spider or a slotted spoon to transfer the chicken to the colander and shake vigorously over the baking sheet, allowing the crispy bits of batter to fall off. Let the chicken rest in the colander for 2 minutes.
Check the temperature of the oil; it should remain at 340°F throughout the frying process. Return the shaken, rested chicken to the oil and fry for 10 minutes longer.
Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Add the pieces to the bowl with the sauce and toss to coat evenly with the sauce.
TENNESSEE HOT CHICKEN
It’s widely known that a few restaurants in Nashville, Tennessee, serve insanely hot and spicy chicken. Rumors of sweating, crying, screaming, and many other kinds of reactions abound. When this chicken hits the hot oil, you’ll know immediately that it’s got some heat because it’s tough to even inhale near the fryer. The pickles cut the heat a little and the white bread is perfect for loading up extra hot sauce. SERVES 4
½ cup plus 3 tablespoons cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 tablespoon chipotle chile powder
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons salt
2¼ cups hot sauce, such as Tabasco
8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 4 pounds)
Vegetable oil, for frying
5½ cups all-purpose flour
2 cups buttermilk
NASHVILLE HOT SAUCE
2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
5 tablespoons cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1½ teaspoons chipotle chile powder
Dill hamburger pickles, for serving
Sliced white bread, for serving
To make the marinade, whisk 2 tablespoons of the cayenne pepper, 1 tablespoon of the garlic powder, the onion powder, 1 tablespoon of the paprika, the chile powder, 1½ teaspoons of the salt, and 1 cup of the hot sauce in a bowl.
Place the chicken thighs in a large zip-top bag and pour in the marinade. Seal the bag and rub to coat the chicken. Double bag the meat with another large zip-top (the aroma of the marinade is strong), seal, and refrigerate for 12 hours.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of vegetable oil over high heat to 335°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together 1½ cups of the flour, 6 tablespoons of the cayenne pepper, and 1½ teaspoons of the salt. In a separate bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and the remaining 1¼ cups of the hot sauce. In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 4 cups of flour, 3 tablespoons of cayenne pepper, 2 teaspoons of salt, 2 teaspoons of paprika, and 2 teaspoons of garlic powder.
Remove the pieces from the zip-top bag, discarding the marinade.
Dredge each thigh in the first flour mixture, dip in the buttermilk mixture, and dredge in the second flour mixture. Once all thighs have been coated, carefully place them in the hot oil. Depending on the size of your fryer, you may need to fry in two batches. Fry for 16 to 18 minutes, or until dark brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F to 335°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
To make the hot sauce, carefully ladle ¾ cup of the frying oil into a small heatproof bowl. Whisk in the brown sugar, cayenne pepper, paprika, and chile powder.
Immediately before serving the chicken, liberally brush each thigh with the hot sauce. Stir the sauce after brushing each piece to keep the spices from falling to the bottom.
Serve with pickle slices and white bread.
JERK DRUMSTICKS
Marinating in jerk spices takes days, but the results are well worth a little advance planning. I like to start this recipe midweek to enjoy a fun dinner with friends on the weekend. Then all you need to do is chill the beer and fry the chicken. The marinade has so much seasoning, there’s no need to season the flour. SERVES 5
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup sliced green onions, green and white parts
1 cup chopped yellow onion
2 habanero peppers
1 tablespoon ground allspice
½ teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1½ teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
3 pounds chicken drumsticks
Peanut oil, for frying
3 cups coconut flour
Pulse the garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade until finely minced. Add the onions and peppers and pulse until finely chopped. Add the allspice, cinnamon, soy sauce, salt, pepper, sugar, lime juice, and thyme and process until combined. Pour the marinade into a large zip-top bag and add the drumsticks. Seal the bag and rub to coat the chicken. Double bag the chicken with another large zip-top (the aroma of the marinade is strong). Seal and refrigerate for 2 to 3 days.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of peanut oil over high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Remove the drumsticks from the marinade but do not rinse the marinade off. Discard the remaining marinade. Place the coconut flour in a large mixing bowl, add 1 drumstick at a time, and toss to coat well. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
Carefully place the drumsticks in the hot oil. Fry for 8 to 10 minutes, or until dark brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 340°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
FRIED CHICKEN SKINS WITH LIME MUSTARD DRIZZLE
This is the perfect bar snack to savor with a glass of Champagne or a cold beer. (Even top sommeliers will tell you that fried foods and bubbly are a match made in heaven.) Cornstarch added to the flour creates an airy crunch in every light, salty bite. It’s almost impossible to eat only one!
Ask your butcher for chicken skins, or pull them from chicken pieces and reserve the meat for another use. Kitchen shears make easy work of cutting the skins into pieces. SERVES 4TO 6
1 cup buttermilk
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
12 ounces chicken skins, cut into approximately 3-inch pieces
LIME MUSTARD DRIZZLE
¼ cup honey
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
Zest of 1 lime
Canola oil, for frying
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup cornstarch
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine the buttermilk and cayenne pepper in a large zip-top bag. Add the chicken skins, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.
To make the drizzle, in a small bowl, whisk together the honey, mustard, and lime zest. Cover and set aside.
In a deep fryer or large, deep stockpot, heat 3 inches of canola oil over high heat to 375°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Stir together the flour, cornstarch, salt, and pepper in a bowl.
Drain the chicken skins, discarding the marinade. Dredge the skins in the flour mixture.
Carefully place them in the hot oil and fry for 3 to 5 minutes, or until puffed and light golden brown. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F. Use a slotted spoon and gently stir the skins in the oil twice, then drain them on the wire rack.
Arrange the chicken skins on a platter and pour 2 tablespoons of the drizzle over them. Serve the remaining drizzle on the side for dipping.
