Fried Chicken: Recipes for the Crispy, Crunchy, Comfort-Food Classic (2015)
CHAPTER 1
SKILLET FRIED
CORNMEAL-CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE
BUTTERMILK-SOAKED, BACON-FRIED CHICKEN IN GRAVY
NATHALIE’S FRIED CHICKEN WITH CREAM GRAVY
SWEET TEA-BRINED FRIED CHICKEN
SAGE AND APPLE-BRINED FRIED CHICKEN
GLUTEN-FREE SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN
TANGY FRIED CHICKEN WITH DIJON
TOM’S FRIED CHICKEN
CREOLE CHICKEN AND BUTTERMILK WAFFLES
CHICKEN LUXURIOUS
PINEAPPLE CHICKEN WITH PINEAPPLE SALSA
PICKLE-BRINED THIGHS
REAL SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN
GUATEMALAN POLLO
BRAZILIAN FRIED CHICKEN
CHICKEN-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PURPLE HULL RELISH
CHICKEN MILANESA WITH CHIMICHURRI
SORGHUM PECAN SKILLET CHICKEN
CAMDEN’S FAVORITE CHICKEN FINGERS
CHICKEN KARA-AGE
INDIAN FRIED CHICKEN WITH CUMIN YOGURT
THAI-STYLE DRUMSTICKS WITH SWEET CHILE SAUCE
DENISE’S CORN FLAKE CHICKEN
CORNMEAL-CRUSTED CHICKEN WITH WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE
While living in Birmingham, Alabama, I had my first and eye-opening taste of white barbecue sauce. To first see a barbecue sauce that’s on the opposite end of the color spectrum from the typical red varieties is intriguing. Its tart, peppery creaminess is simply wonderful. Common throughout North Alabama, the tangy pale sauce is at its best on chicken, whether fried or grilled. SERVES 6
WHITE BARBECUE SAUCE
2 cups mayonnaise
¾ cup apple cider vinegar
1½ tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon firmly packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 chicken (about 4 pounds), backbone removed and cut in half
4 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup milk
2 eggs
1 cup finely ground yellow cornmeal
Canola oil, for frying
To make the barbecue sauce, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, pepper, brown sugar, lemon juice, and cayenne pepper. Pour 1½ cups of the sauce into a large zip-top bag. Cover and refrigerate the remaining sauce for serving.
Place the chicken in the bag. Seal the bag, rub to coat the chicken, and refrigerate for 24 hours.
In a 9 by 13-inch casserole dish, whisk together 2 cups of the flour, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper. In a large bowl, whisk together the milk and eggs. In another 9 by 13-inch casserole dish, whisk together the cornmeal and the remaining 2 cups of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 1¼ inches of canola oil over medium heat to 340°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Remove one chicken half from the zip-top bag, returning the remaining one to the refrigerator. Dredge the chicken in the first flour mixture (without cornmeal), shaking off any excess, then dip it into the egg mixture, and dredge it in the cornmeal mixture. As you dip the chicken in each mixture, lift the wing and leg away from the breast to thoroughly coat all surfaces.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil, breast side down. Fry, turning every 5 minutes, for 25 to 27 minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 300°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Discarding the marinade, repeat with the remaining chicken.
Serve with the reserved barbecue sauce.
BUTTERMILK-SOAKED, BACON-FRIED CHICKEN IN GRAVY
There are edible staples that are quintessentially Southern and have sustained generations around the table. Buttermilk, bacon, and gravy are certainly included in that repertoire. Serving fried chicken with all of the above takes it to a sacred place. SERVES 4
1½ cups buttermilk
2 tablespoons hot sauce, such as Tabasco
1 chicken (about 2 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 4 pieces
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
12 ounces bacon, chopped into ½-inch pieces
Vegetable oil, for frying
GRAVY
¼ cup all-purpose flour
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon dry sherry
½ teaspoon salt
To make the marinade, whisk together the buttermilk and hot sauce. Pour into a large zip-top bag and add the chicken. Seal the bag, rub to coat the meat, and refrigerate for 6 hours.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper.
In a large heavy skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat until browned and crispy. Using a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the skillet and drain on a paper towel, reserving drippings in the skillet.
Add enough vegetable oil to the skillet drippings to be 1 inch deep and heat over medium heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and dredge in the flour mixture, discarding the marinade.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil and fry, turning often, for 20 to 24 minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.
To make the gravy, carefully pour off the hot oil, reserving about ¼ cup in the skillet. Keeping the skillet warm over low heat, whisk in the flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, and cook for 1 minute, whisking constantly. Gradually add the heavy cream and cook for 6 minutes, or until creamy. Stir in the sherry and salt and cook for 1 minute.
Serve the gravy over the chicken and top with reserved bacon.
NATHALIE’S FRIED CHICKEN WITH CREAM GRAVY
There are two women who have guided me down the path of fried chicken passion: my grandmother and Nathalie Dupree. Nathalie is my mentor, close friend, cheerleader, confidante, and a driving force in my life. I don’t think I would be immersed in the world of food without her. This recipe is from Nathalie’s book Southern Memories. She covers her chicken so the meat steams from the inside out. And she uses curry or cayenne pepper in her flour, never both. SERVES 4
1 chicken (about 2 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 8 pieces
2 cups buttermilk
Vegetable shortening, for frying
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon curry powder, or ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
CREAM GRAVY
½ cup all-purpose flour
2½ cups chicken broth, heated
⅓ cup heavy cream
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Place the chicken and buttermilk in a large zip-top bag. Seal the bag, rub to coat the chicken, and set aside for 30 minutes.
In a large heavy skillet, heat the shortening over medium heat to 365°F. It should be 1½ inches deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1 teaspoon of the pepper, and the curry powder.
Remove the chicken from the bag, discarding the buttermilk. Sprinkle the chicken with the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture.
Working in two batches, carefully place the chicken in the hot oil, skin side down. Cover the pan and fry for 10 minutes, checking once after 5 minutes for over-browning. Turn the chicken and cook, uncovered, for 10 to 12 minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
To make the cream gravy, carefully pour off the fat from the pan and set it aside (a clean metal coffee works well for this purpose). Scrape the bottom of the pan to loosen the browned pieces and return 6 tablespoons reserved fat back into the pan. Whisk in the flour and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, for about 2 minutes. Slowly add the hot broth, bring to a boil, and whisk constantly the sauce is thickened slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and whisk until warmed. Season with salt and pepper to taste, then serve.
SWEET TEA-BRINED FRIED CHICKEN
It’s only natural to think that the most popular drink on Southern tables would end up in one of the most popular foods. The sugar in traditional sweet tea adds juiciness to the bird, much like salt does in more typical brines. I use Lipton brand tea, but any iced tea made from black tea will work here. I’ve added bay leaves, sugar, and salt to make the tea brine even more flavorful and complex. SERVES 4 TO 6
8 cups hot water
2 family-size tea bags, strings removed
2 bay leaves
½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar
½ cup kosher salt
4 cups ice
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 4 pieces
Vegetable oil, for frying
3 cups Southern all-purpose flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily)
1 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups milk
1 egg
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
To make the brine, combine the water, tea bags, bay leaves, sugar, and kosher salt in a large mixing bowl. Stir until the salt and sugar dissolve. Add the ice, leaving in the tea bags. Submerge the chicken, cover, and refrigerate for 4 hours. Remove the chicken from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the brine and tea bags.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 1 inch of vegetable oil over medium heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In one bowl, whisk together 1 cup of the flour, ½ teaspoon of the table salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper, and in a separate bowl, the milk and egg. In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 2 cups of flour, ½ teaspoon of table salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, and the cayenne pepper.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, dredge the pieces in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess, then dip the pieces into the milk mixture, and dredge them in the second flour mixture.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 14 to 16 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
SAGE AND APPLE-BRINED FRIED CHICKEN
When Thanksgiving flavors mingle with crispy salty goodness, a fine fried chicken is created. Each piece is perfectly browned on the outside and just juicy enough to call for an extra napkin. The extremely salty brine shortens the soaking time—and the wait to satisfy cravings! SERVES 6
½ cup kosher salt
2½ cups water
1 cup apple juice
1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed
½ cup fresh sage leaves, torn into pieces
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
4 cups ice
1 chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 4 pieces
Canola oil, for frying
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 cups all-purpose flour
Fresh sage leaves, for garnish
To make the brine, whisk together the kosher salt, water, apple juice, garlic, sage, and peppercorns in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, cooking for about 10 minutes, or until the salt is completely dissolved. Remove from the heat and add the ice. Let the brine sit until cooled and the ice is melted, about 10 minutes.
Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag and pour in the cooled brine. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 3 hours. Remove the chicken, rinse and dry the pieces with paper towels, and discard the brine. In a large heavy skillet, heat 1½ inches of canola oil over medium heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Sprinkle chicken with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of pepper. Dredge half of the chicken in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 16 to 20 minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F to 330°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
For garnish, fry a few fresh sage leaves in the hot oil after removing the last of the chicken. Fry for about 1 minute, or until crispy but still green. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on the wire rack.
GLUTEN-FREE SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN
The taste of authentic fried chicken is no longer out of reach for those who want to avoid gluten. Hands down, this is the best gluten-free chicken I have ever tasted, just like the real flour-covered thing! The tapioca starch keeps the coating from being sticky or gummy (as sometimes happens with gluten-free batters). Allowing the chicken to rest before entering the oil ensures the crust adheres and stays crunchy through each bite. SERVES 6
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 4 pieces
2 cups buttermilk
3½ cups rice flour
2½ teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 cups milk
1 egg
⅔ cup tapioca starch
Vegetable oil, for frying
6 sprigs herbs, such as sage, rosemary, and thyme
Place the chicken and buttermilk in a large zip-top bag. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 4 hours.
In one bowl, whisk together 1½ cups of the rice flour, 1½ teaspoons of the salt, 1 teaspoon of the pepper, and the cayenne pepper, and in another bowl, the milk and egg. In a large bowl, whisk together the tapioca starch with the remaining 2 cups of rice flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ½ teaspoon of pepper.
Drain the chicken, discarding the buttermilk. Dredge a piece in the rice flour mixture (without tapioca starch), dip into the milk mixture, then dredge in the tapioca starch mixture. Transfer the chicken to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Sprinkle about ¼ cup of the remaining tapioca starch mixture over the pieces to ensure that they are thoroughly coated and let them rest for 5 minutes. It will look like there is too much flour mounded on top of the meat. Shake slightly before adding to the oil.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 1 inch of vegetable oil over medium heat to 320°F. Set a wire rack over a clean rimmed baking sheet. Place herb sprigs in the hot oil and fry for 2 minutes. The herbs will spatter in the oil, so stand back. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, carefully place the pieces in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 13 to 15 minutes, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 315°F to 325°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Top the chicken with the crispy herb sprigs before serving.
TANGY FRIED CHICKEN WITH DIJON
Coating the chicken with a generous layer of Dijon mustard yields tender meat and an appealing wavy and textured exterior. Herbes de Provence delivers just a hint of floral fun in each bite. The thicker the Dijon, the better it will adhere to the chicken, so splurge a little and buy the good stuff. SERVES 4 TO 6
½ cup Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons herbes de Provence
2 teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 4 pieces
Canola oil, for frying
3 cups all-purpose flour
In a small mixing bowl, whisk together the mustard, herbes de Provence, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper.
Rub the mustard mixture all over each piece of chicken and let sit on a rimmed baking sheet at room temperature for 30 minutes.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 1½ inches of canola oil over medium heat to 340°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a shallow bowl, whisk together the flour and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper. Working with half of the chicken at a time, dredge the pieces in the flour mixture, shaking off the excess.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 18 to 24 minutes, or until brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F. Drain the chicken on a wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
TOM’S FRIED CHICKEN
There is a fried chicken that lives in the soul of each of us, and this is mine. My grandmother Tom could fry chicken without a second thought and never even splatter her Sunday apron. When I need a pick-me-up or a taste of home, this is the recipe I turn to. No matter how many times I make it, it’s still not exactly like hers. Simply her presence made it taste better. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
4 cups Southern all-purpose flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
Vegetable shortening, for frying
Place the chicken in a large mixing bowl. Sprinkle with ⅓ cup of the salt and add cold tap water until pieces are submerged. Cover and refrigerate for 4 hours.
Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels. Remove the chicken from the salted water and place on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle the pieces with 1 teaspoon of the salt and 1 teaspoon of the pepper.
Whisk together the flour and the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt and 2 teaspoons of pepper in a large paper grocery bag.
In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the shortening over medium heat to 350°F. It should be 1½ inches deep when melted. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets with a wire rack on each pan (one will be for the floured pieces and one for the fried chicken).
Working with half of the chicken at a time, dredge the pieces in the flour. Gather the open end of the bag to close and shake vigorously to coat all the meat with flour. Transfer the pieces from the bag to one of the prepared baking sheets. Carefully place the floured chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 22 to 24 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F to 325°F. Drain the chicken on the clean wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
CREOLE CHICKEN AND BUTTERMILK WAFFLES
Most born and bred Southerners have never tasted fried chicken with waffles, though the dish is often thought of as a staple in the South. The combination is an urban version of country Southern food, and while its exact origins are debated, it definitely gained popularity in soul food restaurants in places like Los Angeles and Harlem. Some people say that it’s a breakfast food, but a case can be made for eating it between the hours of midnight and 10 a.m., when rich food may be needed to recover from too much fun the night before.
Make the waffles up to one month ahead and store them in the freezer. They reheat very nicely in the toaster, so a late-night craving is one step closer to satisfaction. SERVES 4 TO 6
½ cup buttermilk
3 tablespoons hot sauce, such as Tabasco, plus more for serving
1 chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into 10 pieces
1⅔ cups all-purpose flour
⅓ cup sorghum flour
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons Creole seasoning
Vegetable shortening, for frying
Buttermilk Waffles (recipe follows)
Softened unsalted butter, for serving
Sorghum syrup, for serving
Combine the buttermilk and the hot sauce in a large zip-top bag. Add the chicken, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 3 to 5 hours.
In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, sorghum flour, salt, pepper, and Creole seasoning.
In a large heavy skillet, heat shortening over medium heat to 375°F. It should be 1 inch deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, remove the pieces from the buttermilk mixture, dredge in the flour mixture, and carefully place in the hot oil. Fry for 14 to 15 minutes, or until brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Serve the chicken over the warm, buttered waffles. Sprinkle with hot sauce and a generous pour of sorghum syrup.
BUTTERMILK WAFFLES
MAKES 12 WAFFLES
2 cups all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
2 eggs
¾ cup buttermilk
¾ cup milk
⅓ cup unsalted butter, melted
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and baking soda, and in another bowl, the eggs, buttermilk, and milk. Add the liquid ingredients to the flour mixture, and whisk until blended. Stir in the melted butter.
Preheat and oil a Belgian-style waffle iron. Cook the batter, in batches, until golden. Cooking times will vary depending on waffle maker.
CHICKEN LUXURIOUS
Chicken doesn’t get any more lavish than this version, brined in heavy cream and fried in rich, decadent duck fat. So I say, save up to spend away on this rich and well-appointed fried delicacy. If you really want to take things to the next level, sprinkle some truffle salt over the top just before serving. The breading on this bird has a golden, almost buttery taste. Where duck fat bubbles, good things happen. SERVES 4
¾ cup heavy cream
⅓ cup champagne vinegar
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 bay leaves
3 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (about 2 pounds, 12 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
1½ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup unseasoned dry bread crumbs
2 tablespoons nonfat dry milk powder
Duck fat, for frying
Truffle salt, optional
To make the marinade, whisk together the cream, vinegar, garlic, bay leaves, brown sugar, 1 teaspoon of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper. Place the chicken in a large zip-top bag and pour in the marinade. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 12 hours.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, bread crumbs, milk powder, and the remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper.
In a large heavy skillet, heat the duck fat over medium heat to 350°F. It should be 1½ inches deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, remove the pieces from the marinade and dredge in the flour, shaking off any excess. Discard the marinade.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 13 to 14 minutes, or until brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F to 335°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
If desired, sprinkle on truffle salt before serving.
PINEAPPLE CHICKEN WITH PINEAPPLE SALSA
This tropically inspired dish elicits remarks rarely heard about fried chicken; for example, I’ve heard it called “refreshing,” “light,” and “delightful.” Brining the chicken in pineapple juice delivers a surprising burst of sweetness with each bite. It’s one of my favorite recipes in this book. SERVES 4 TO 6
1 chicken (about 4 pounds), cut into 10 pieces
4 cups canned pineapple juice
⅓ cup kosher salt
1 egg
2½ teaspoons table salt
1 (13.5-ounce) can light coconut milk
1 cup white rice flour
3 cups all-purpose flour
Coconut oil, for frying
Pineapple Salsa (recipe follows), for serving
Place the chicken pieces in a large zip-top bag.
For the brine, whisk together the pineapple juice and kosher salt. Pour over the chicken, seal the bag, and refrigerate for 8 hours or overnight.
In a bowl, whisk together the egg, ½ teaspoon of the table salt, and coconut milk, and in another bowl, the rice flour, all-purpose flour, and the remaining 2 teaspoons of the table salt.
In a large heavy skillet, heat the coconut oil over medium heat to 320°F. It should be 1 inch deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the chicken at a time, remove the pieces from the brine and dredge in the flour mixture. Dip the chicken in the coconut milk mixture, allowing excess to drip off. Dredge it again in the flour. Discard the brine.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 25 to 28 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 315°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Serve with the salsa.
PINEAPPLE SALSA
MAKES 3½ CUPS
1 fresh pineapple (about 3 pounds, 4 ounces), peeled and cored
3 green onions, white and green parts, finely sliced
1 red chile pepper, finely chopped
Zest of 1 lime
⅛ teaspoon salt
Finely chop the pineapple. Stir together the pineapple, onions, chile pepper, zest, and salt. Cover and chill until serving.
PICKLE-BRINED THIGHS
Never throw out the juice left behind in a dill pickle jar. It’s a bit like liquid gold, flavored by the pickles and perfectly salty for brining. This recipe delivers juicy meat with a zingy tang encased in a crispy coating. SERVES 4 TO 6
10 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 5 pounds)
2 cups dill pickle brine (juice from a jar)
Vegetable oil, for frying
2 cups buttermilk
2 cups Southern self-rising flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
1 tablespoon pickling spice, finely ground
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine the chicken thighs and the pickle brine in a large zip-top bag. Seal and refrigerate for 6 hours.
Remove the thighs from the brine and pat them dry with paper towels, discarding the brine.
In a large cast-iron skillet, heat 1½ inches of vegetable oil over medium heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Pour the buttermilk into a medium bowl. In a separate large bowl, whisk together the flour, pickling spice, salt, and pepper. Working in batches, dip the chicken in the buttermilk and then dredge in the flour mixture.
Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 10 to 14 minutes, or until brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 320°F to 325°F. Drain the pieces on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
REAL SOUTHERN BUTTERMILK FRIED CHICKEN
This is the vision many people have when they think of Southern food, and what a vision it is! Depending on where in the South the chicken is fried, it may be dressed up with tomato gravy. It’s optional, but awfully good. You can use a little lard from the fried chicken to start the gravy in style. SERVES 4
1¾ cups buttermilk
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (about 2 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 10 pieces
6 cups Southern all-purpose flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
Lard, for frying
Tomato Gravy (recipe follows), optional
To make the marinade, in a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, 2 teaspoons of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper. Place the chicken pieces in a large zip-top bag and pour in the marinade. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Shake together the flour and the remaining 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper in a large paper grocery bag.
In a large heavy skillet, heat the lard over medium heat to 350°F. It should be 1½ inches deep when melted. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets with a wire rack on each pan (one will be for the floured chicken and one will be for the fried chicken).
Remove the chicken pieces from zip-top bag and drop them in the bag with the flour. Gather the open end of the bag to close and shake vigorously to coat all the pieces with flour. Transfer the chicken from the bag to one of the prepared baking sheets. Discard the marinade.
Carefully place half of the pieces in the hot lard. Fry, turning often, for 14 to 15 minutes, or until brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 325°F to 340°F. Drain the chicken on the clean wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Serve with the gravy.
TOMATO GRAVY
MAKES 1½ CUPS
2 tablespoons lard from fried chicken
1 cup finely chopped sweet onion
2 tablespoons Southern all-purpose flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
2 cups peeled, seeded, and finely chopped tomato
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, chopped
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup milk
Heat the lard in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often. Sprinkle the flour over the onion and cook for 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the tomato, salt, thyme, and pepper and cook for about 5 minutes, stirring often.
Add the milk, bring to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, and cook, stirring often, for 2 more minutes, adding more milk if the gravy gets too thick.
GUATEMALAN POLLO
Oregano and citrus are key flavors for Guatemalan fried chicken. Since many people in Guatemala raise chickens, the meat is superfresh and always just a few steps away from the stove. Look for annatto paste, which is sometimes called achiote paste, in Hispanic markets. It stains, so grab an apron. SERVES 4
2 tablespoons annatto paste
Zest of 1 lime
⅓ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
3 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
8 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 4 pounds)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup finely ground yellow cornmeal
Corn oil, for frying
In a small bowl, combine the annatto paste, lime zest, lime juice, and orange juice, stirring to dissolve the annatto paste. In a bowl, mash together the garlic and 1 teaspoon of the salt, until the garlic forms a paste. Add the annatto mixture, vegetable oil, oregano, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper and stir to combine. Add the chicken thighs and toss until well coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to overnight.
Remove the thighs from the refrigerator 45 minutes before frying. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, and the remaining 2 teaspoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ¾ inch of corn oil over medium-high heat to 350°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the thighs at a time, remove from the marinade, and dredge in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess. Discard the marinade. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 16 to 18 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining thighs.
BRAZILIAN FRIED CHICKEN
Supposedly the first ruler of Brazil often requested this peasant fried chicken dish, frango á passarinho, instead of the royal dishes he was usually offered. Walk into a bar in Brazil for happy hour and the menu will likely include a version of frango á passarinho, still popular today.
It is time-consuming to cut a whole chicken into 20 pieces without a cleaver. If you don’t have one, heavy-duty kitchen shears will do the job as well. The cuts can be random but some will be straight through the bones. Just make sure the pieces are all about the same size. SERVES 4 TO 6
6 cloves garlic
Juice of 1 lemon
½ cup chopped white onion
2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish
¼ cup white wine
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 chicken (about 3 pounds, 8 ounces), cut into 16 to 20 pieces
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons baking powder
Vegetable oil, for frying
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
To make the marinade, place the garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade and pulse until minced. Add the lemon juice, onion, parsley, wine, olive oil, salt, and pepper and process until finely chopped. Transfer the marinade to a large mixing bowl, add the chicken pieces, and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, oregano, and baking powder. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator and leave it in the marinade. Add the flour mixture and stir to coat the chicken evenly. Discard any marinade remaining in the bowl.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ½ inch of vegetable oil over medium heat to 365°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working in batches, carefully place 6 to 8 pieces of chicken in the oil. Fry, turning often, for 8 minutes, or until brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 340°F to 350°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
After all the meat is fried, turn off the heat. Line a plate with a paper towel. Place the sliced garlic in a metal strainer and slowly lower into the hot oil to fry for 10 to 15 seconds or until lightly browned. Quickly remove the strainer from the oil and drain garlic on the prepared plate.
Serve the chicken sprinkled with garlic and additional chopped parsley.
CHICKEN-FRIED CHICKEN WITH PURPLE HULL RELISH
Southerners like to call any pounded meat that’s been coated and fried until golden brown “chicken fried.” Pink-eyed purple hull peas are a type of cowpea grown across the South and are similar to black-eyed peas, only with a bright purple hull and pink eyes rather than black eyes. This is the pea I was raised on, served with a sauce of sweet stewed tomatoes and vinegar, but you can easily substitute fresh or frozen black-eyed peas (as shown in the photo). SERVES 4
PURPLE HULL RELISH
3 cups pink-eyed purple hull peas, cooked, drained, and cooled
¾ cup apple cider vinegar
¾ cup diced red bell pepper
1 jalapeño pepper, diced
1 small white onion, diced
2 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon whole-grain prepared mustard
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups Southern all-purpose flour, homemade or store-bought (such as White Lily brand)
⅛ teaspoon dry mustard
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Vegetable oil, for frying
To make the relish, in a medium bowl, stir together the peas, vinegar, bell pepper, jalapeño, onion, brown sugar, parsley, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
Place each chicken breast between two pieces of plastic wrap and gently pound with a mallet until it is evenly ¾ inch thick.
Put the olive oil, vinegar, garlic, prepared mustard, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the pepper in a large zip-top bag and add the chicken breasts. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 4 to 6 hours.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, dry mustard, cayenne pepper, and the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper.
In a large heavy skillet, heat 1 inch of vegetable oil over medium heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with 2 chicken breasts at a time, remove from the marinade and immediately dredge in the flour mixture. Discard the marinade. Carefully place the chicken in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 14 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain an oil temperature of 315°F to 325°F. Drain the pieces on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
Serve with the relish.
CHICKEN MILANESA WITH CHIMICHURRI
Milanesa is a style of breading and cooking meat that is sometimes called the unofficial dish of Argentina. Often made with steak, Milanesa can also be made with chicken by pounding breast meat, frying it in a skillet, and topping it with a spicy tomato or chimichurri sauce. This recipe is great for beginner fryers. It’s quick enough to serve on a weekday night but impressive enough for weekend company. SERVES 4
CHIMICHURRI SAUCE
4 cloves garlic
1½ cups fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
⅔ cup pure olive oil
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 eggs
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons water
1½ cups unseasoned dry bread crumbs
Pure olive oil, for frying
To make the chimichurri sauce, pulse the garlic in a food processor fitted with the metal blade until it is minced. Add the 1½ cups parsley, vinegar, oregano, red pepper flakes, paprika, salt, and pepper. Process until finely chopped, about 1 minute, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. With the processor running, add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream until completely combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and pulse 2 or 3 times more. Transfer the sauce to an airtight container and refrigerate until ready to use, or up to 1 day.
Place each chicken breast between two pieces of plastic wrap and gently pound it with a meat mallet until it is evenly ¼ inch thick. Cut each breast in half (as you cut the breast in half, the pounded breast will open up like a book) to make 4 cutlets. Sprinkle each cutlet with the salt and pepper.
In a shallow dish, whisk together the eggs, garlic, 2 tablespoons of parsley, and water.
Place the bread crumbs in another shallow dish.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ¼ inch of pure olive oil over medium heat to 315°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with 2 at a time, dip the cutlets in the egg mixture, press them into the bread crumbs to coat evenly on both sides, and then carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, or until cooked through and juices run clear. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken. Serve with the sauce.
SORGHUM PECAN SKILLET CHICKEN
This dish calls for skin-on breasts with no bones, which are somewhat hard to come by, so I recommend asking your butcher to simply remove the bones from skin-on breasts. Sorghum syrup, a Southern favorite for sweetening and adding a deeper flavor than honey, is made from boiling down the juice extracted from the stalks of sorghum cane. Drizzle it over the top of the fried chicken for a sweet note that perfectly complements the savory. Sorghum syrup and pecans have been a favorite Southern pairing for generations. SERVES 4
4 boneless, skin-on chicken breasts
2 cups sour cream
Pure olive oil, for frying
2½ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup very finely chopped pecans
2 teaspoons salt
1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
2 eggs, beaten
Sorghum syrup, for serving
Place each chicken breast between two pieces of plastic wrap and use a meat mallet to pound each to ¾ inch thick.
Transfer the chicken to a large zip-top bag and add the sour cream. Seal the bag, rub to coat the chicken, and refrigerate for 4 hours.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ½ inch of olive oil over medium heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Place 2 cups of the flour in a bowl. Combine the pecans, the remaining ½ cup of flour, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper on a large plate. In another bowl, whisk the eggs.
Working with 2 of the chicken breasts at a time, remove from the sour cream and dredge in the flour. Dip the breasts in the eggs. Lay each piece on the plate with the pecans and cover with the nut and flour mixture. Pat the meat with your fingers to help the pecans adhere.
Carefully place the chicken breasts in the hot oil. Fry for 6 to 7 minutes per side, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain an oil temperature of 310°F to 315°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces.
Drizzle with sorghum syrup before serving.
CAMDEN’S FAVORITE CHICKEN FINGERS
As a mother of two, I hear more requests for chicken fingers than any other supper food. I quickly mastered making my own after studying many packages and wincing at the ingredients. Our son, Camden, couldn’t be happier, and they’re so easy; weeknights will never be the same.
I also like to make another version, replacing the all-purpose flour and bread crumbs with 1 cup of all-purpose flour, 1 cup of whole wheat flour, and 3 tablespoons of milled flaxseeds. It’s such a great way to add more nutritious ingredients to a kid favorite. SERVES 4 TO 6
2 cups all-purpose flour
½ cup unseasoned dry bread crumbs
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups buttermilk
Pure olive oil, for frying
1¾ pounds chicken tenders (about 18 tenders)
Homemade Honey Mustard (recipe follows), for serving
Comeback Sauce (recipe follows), for serving
In a bowl, whisk together the flour, bread crumbs, salt, and pepper. Pour the buttermilk into another bowl.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ½ inch of olive oil over medium heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Working with half of the chicken tenders at a time, dip them in the buttermilk and dredge in the flour mixture. Stir the flour mixture often to keep the bread crumbs from settling to the bottom of the bowl.
Carefully place the tenders in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain an oil temperature of 315°F to 325°F.
Drain the pieces on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
Serve the chicken fingers with honey mustard and sauce.
HOMEMADE HONEY MUSTARD
MAKES ½ CUP
¼ cup yellow mustard
¼ cup honey
½ teaspoon lemon zest
⅛ teaspoon paprika
In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
COMEBACK SAUCE
MAKES 1¼ CUPS
½ cup mayonnaise
¼ cup chili sauce, such as Heinz
2 tablespoons ketchup
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
3 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ teaspoon paprika
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
⅛ teaspoon garlic powder
⅛ teaspoon onion powder
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
In a small bowl, whisk together all the ingredients. Cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
CHICKEN KARA-AGE
This Japanese fried chicken is popular in bento boxes, since the chicken is just about as good served cold as it is straight from the wok. The tender and deeply flavored chicken pieces are fried twice for extra crispiness. Kara-age is a frying technique used most commonly with chicken, but it’s also good for vegetables. SERVES 4
3 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons mirin
2 teaspoons light sesame oil
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch pieces
Canola oil, for frying
½ cup potato starch
Lemon wedges, for serving
To make the marinade, combine the soy sauce, mirin, sesame oil, garlic, and ginger in a large zip-top bag and add the chicken. Seal the bag, rub to coat the chicken, and refrigerate overnight.
In a large wok, heat 1½ inches of canola oil over medium heat to 375°F. Prepare two rimmed baking sheets with a wire rack on each pan.
Drain the chicken in a colander and discard the marinade. Transfer the thighs to a mixing bowl, add the potato starch and stir to combine and coat the pieces. They will not be evenly coated.
Carefully place 5 or 6 thighs at a time in the hot oil. Fry for 1 to 1½ minutes or until lightly golden. Drain the chicken on one of the wire racks. Repeat with the remaining chicken, making sure the oil is 375°F each time before adding more.
When all of the chicken has been fried once, fry each batch 45 seconds to 1 minute more, or until golden brown. Drain on the clean wire rack for 2 to 3 minutes. Serve the chicken with lemon wedges.
INDIAN FRIED CHICKEN WITH CUMIN YOGURT
Curry leaves are different from the ground curry in your spice cabinet, which is a blend of spices, herbs, and seeds. Curry leaves are small and look like lemon leaves. If you love Indian food, you’ll recognize the flavor immediately. Look for them in international markets and store them in the refrigerator. You’ll need about 3 (7.5-ounce) jars of Indian-style clarified butter, ghee. Look for it in specialty grocery stores. SERVES 4
¼ cup plain whole milk yogurt
¼ cup chickpea flour
1 small onion
6 cloves garlic
1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
1 teaspoon garam masala
½ teaspoon whole cumin, toasted and ground
½ teaspoon whole coriander, toasted and ground
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 chicken drumsticks
4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs
1 teaspoon salt
Ghee, for frying
6 curry leaves
CUMIN YOGURT
1½ cups plain whole milk yogurt
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon whole cumin, toasted and ground
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
½ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
To make the marinade, place the yogurt, chickpea flour, half of the onion, 3 cloves of the garlic, ginger, garam masala, cumin, coriander, and cayenne pepper into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until thoroughly combined. Lay the chicken in a large shallow baking dish, sprinkle with the salt, and add the marinade. Toss the pieces until well coated. Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour, turning the chicken 2 or 3 times during chilling.
To make the yogurt sauce, in a small bowl, whisk together the yogurt, lemon juice, cumin, cilantro, mint, salt, and cayenne pepper. Cover and chill until ready to use.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ghee over medium-high heat to 340°F. It should be 1 inch deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Peel off the layers of the remaining half of the onion and add to the hot ghee along with the remaining 3 garlic cloves and curry leaves.
Working in batches, carefully place the chicken in the hot ghee, skin side down. Fry, turning often, for 10 to 13 minutes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining pieces. Discard the onion, garlic, and curry leaves in the ghee after all the chicken is fried. Serve the chicken with the cumin yogurt.
THAI-STYLE DRUMSTICKS WITH SWEET CHILE SAUCE
One of the most beloved street food dishes in Bangkok is fried chicken, gai tod, which is made to order by street vendors with unforgettably bright aromatics. In northern Thailand, it is often served with sticky rice balls, but you can also pair it with regular steamed rice. Wings and thighs are commonly used for gai tod as well as drumsticks. SERVES 4 TO 6
SWEET CHILE SAUCE
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon minced, fresh lemongrass, tender white parts only
1 fresh red Thai chile pepper, seeded
1 cup sugar
½ cup unseasoned rice vinegar
½ cup water
1 teaspoon kosher salt
6 cloves garlic, peeled
¼ cup finely chopped cilantro stems, reserve leaves for garnish, if desired
1 tablespoon whole coriander
1 teaspoon white peppercorns
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1 tablespoon fish sauce
10 chicken drumsticks
Coconut oil, for frying
1 cup rice flour
1 egg, beaten
To make the chile sauce, in a small saucepan, combine the garlic, lemongrass, chile pepper, sugar, vinegar, water, and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook until the sauce reduces to a syrup consistency, about 35 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cool completely before serving.
To make the marinade, grind together the garlic, cilantro stems, coriander, peppercorns, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a mortar and pestle until a paste is formed. Transfer the marinade to a large bowl and whisk in the oyster sauce and fish sauce. Add the drumsticks and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
In a large cast-iron skillet, heat coconut oil over medium heat to 350°F. It should be 1 inch deep when melted. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
Remove the drumsticks from the marinade, reserving any remaining marinade.
To make the batter, in a bowl, whisk together the rice flour, egg, and remaining 1 teaspoon of salt. Add any reserved marinade (there will not be much). Pour in about ½ cup water, 2 tablespoons at a time, to create a batter that thinly coats the chicken and easily drips off.
Working in batches, dip the drumsticks in the batter, and carefully place them in the hot oil. Fry for 10 to 12 minutes, or until deeply brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 330°F to 340°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack. Repeat with the remaining chicken.
Serve the chicken with the chile sauce.
DENISE’S CORN FLAKE CHICKEN
This recipe was contributed by Denise Vivaldo, a dear friend with whom I instantly connected (even though we call different corners of the country home) over fried chicken, a little gossip, canola oil, and wine. Denise still craves her mother’s chicken, and this corn flake version stirs up memories of home. SERVES 4
1 chicken (about 3 pounds), cut into 4 pieces
1 quart buttermilk
Canola oil, for frying
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons onion powder
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 large eggs
¼ cup milk
3 cups corn flakes, coarsely crushed
Place the chicken and buttermilk in a large zip-top bag. Seal the bag and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.
In a large heavy skillet, heat ½ inch of canola oil over medium heat to 325°F. Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
In a shallow bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, onion powder, thyme, sage, pepper, and cayenne. In a second bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. In a third bowl, place the corn flakes.
Remove the chicken from the zip-top bag and pat dry. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess, then dip into egg mixture and dredge it in the cornflakes, pressing the cornflakes to the chicken to coat all sides.
Working in batches, carefully place the pieces in the hot oil. Fry, turning often, for 12 to 15 minutes, being careful not to over-brown the corn flakes, or until golden brown and juices run clear. Maintain a frying temperature of 315°F. Drain the chicken on the wire rack.