BBQ Bistro: Simple, Sophisticated French Recipes for Your Grill (2015)
CHAPTER 8
VOLAILLE
POULTRY
Bistro Chicken Paillards
Spit-Roasted Chicken with Charred Tomatoes on the Vine
Planked Chicken Breasts with Artichoke Slather
Moroccan Chicken with Apricot and Pistachio Couscous
Brie and Tapenade-Stuffed Chicken Breast
Spatchcocked Chicken with Rosemary Sprigs
Tarragon-Infused Grilled Turkey Breast
The last time we were in France with a group of friends, we tried to find a poulet de Bresse, or the finest poultry available, so we could roast it and see if it lived up to the hype. We did find one—at a boucherie in Monte Carlo—but the day was hot and we didn’t have a way to keep it cool enough to take back to the cottage we were renting. Ah, missed opportunities!
A poulet de Bresse still has some of the feathers attached, and its feet have a numbered metal band that traces the chicken back to the exact Rhône-Alpes farm and brood from which it hatched. Ultimate accountability!
In America, we recommend using a free-range chicken or turkey from a local farm to get the best and freshest flavor.
Then, there are so many grilling techniques to use. For the whole bird, Spit-Roasted Chicken with Charred Tomatoes on the Vine (page 129) echoes the popular French rotisserie bistros. You can also de-backbone and then flatten a chicken for Spatchcocked Chicken with Rosemary Sprigs (page 136). You can stuff a chicken breast with any number of mixtures after you try Brie and Tapenade-Stuffed Chicken Breast (page 135). Slather a chicken breast with a flavorful mixture and cook it a la plancha in Planked Chicken Breasts with Artichoke Slather (page 131). Or simply slice and pound thin a boneless, skinless chicken breast to make Bistro Chicken Paillards (page 128), really, really fast food on your grill.
BISTRO CHICKEN PAILLARDS
PAILLARD IS A FRENCH TERM MEANING A VERY THIN BONELESS AND SKINLESS PIECE of chicken, veal, lamb, pork, or even vegetable. Pounded to just ½ inch (1 cm) of thickness, chicken paillards grill in just 5 minutes over a hot fire. That’s really fast food! Serve this with sliced tomatoes and crusty French bread or Goat Cheese Croutons (page 125). Be sure to dollop the Four-Herb Pistou (page 27) on the tomatoes, too.
SERVES 4
4 boneless skinless chicken breasts (about 1½ pounds/750 g)
Olive oil for brushing
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 lemons, halved
1 cup (250 ml) Four-Herb Pistou (page 27), prepared
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
Place each chicken breast between two sheets of plastic wrap and pound to ½-inch (1 cm) thickness with a meat mallet or the edge of a sturdy saucer. Brush the chicken with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Lightly brush lemon halves with olive oil, too. Grill the chicken for 2½ minutes per side, turning once, or until the chicken is no longer pink inside. Grill the lemon halves, cut-side down, for about 3 to 4 minutes. Serve the chicken immediately, with a squeeze of lemon juice and a dollop of Four-Herb Pistou atop each paillard.
SPIT-ROASTED CHICKEN WITH CHARRED TOMATOES ON THE VINE
PARIS HAS SEVERAL WELL-KNOWN BISTROS THAT SPECIALIZE IN ROTISSERIE COOKING. La Rôtisserie d’en Face serves spit-roasted chicken and planked Dover sole. L’Atelier Maître Albert calls itself a “contemporary” rotisserie and offers spit-roasted chicken, veal shank, and beef roast along with planked cod and sea bream. Blogger and cookbook author David Lebovitz, who lives in Paris, recommends the spit-roasted chicken and game birds at La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais. So why not have a little Paris in your backyard? If you like, brush baby zucchini and pattypan squash with the Lemon-Parsley Baste to grill alongside the tomatoes on the vine to round out the meal—and create a beautiful presentation on the platter. Tomatoes on the vine from the grocery store are usually on the small side, so plan on two tomatoes per person when you are shopping. If you cannot find ground fennel seeds, grind your own in a spice grinder or pound with a meat mallet between two sheets of plastic wrap or parchment paper.
SERVES 8
Lemon-Parsley Baste
6 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup (125 ml) finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup (50 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup (50 ml) olive oil
2 teaspoons ground fennel seeds
2 whole chickens (each 3 to 4 pounds/1.5 to 2 kg), giblets and necks removed
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 or 3 vines of tomatoes with at least 16 tomatoes total (about 5 to 6 pounds/2.5 to 3 kg)
For the Lemon-Parsley Baste, whisk together the garlic, parsley, lemon juice, olive oil, and fennel in a bowl. Transfer half of the baste to another bowl; cover and refrigerate.
Place the chickens in a large dish and season inside and out with salt and pepper. Brush the chickens with half of the baste, coating evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 8 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare an indirect fire in your grill or set up your grill for rotisserie cooking (page 18).
Place the tomatoes on the vine on a baking sheet and brush with some of the reserved marinade.
Prepare the chicken by tying the legs together with soaked kitchen string.
For rotisserie grilling, attach the chickens to the spit, leaving about 6 inches (15 cm) between the birds. Heat the grill to medium-high. Close the lid and grill for 3 to 4 hours, basting with the reserved Lemon-Parsley Baste halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a thigh registers 160°F (75°C) and the leg joint moves easily. Transfer chickens to serving platters, tent with foil, and let rest for 15 minutes.
Carve the chickens and arrange the pieces attractively on a platter. Surround with the grilled tomatoes on the vine.
VARIATION:
If you prefer, you can grill the chickens over a hot indirect fire instead of using the rotisserie. Place the chickens on the indirect side of the grill. Close the lid and grill for 3 to 4 hours, turning the chickens 180 degrees and basting with the reserved baste halfway through, until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of thigh registers 160°F (75°C) and the leg joint moves easily.
PLANKED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH ARTICHOKE SLATHER
PLANKING BONELESS, SKINLESS CHICKEN BREASTS IS YET ANOTHER WAY TO DO something deliciously different with a common ingredient. Cooking on a plank produces chicken that is tender and juicy with the slight woodsy aroma of the plank. The Artichoke Slather keeps the chicken wonderfully moist. Make sure you soak your plank for at least 1 hour before you put it on the grill.
SERVES 4
4 boneless skinless chicken breasts
One 15 × 6½ × 8 inch (37 × 16 × 20 cm) cedar or oak plank, soaked in water for at least 1 hour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 recipe Artichoke Slather (page 28), prepared
Prepare an indirect medium-hot fire in your grill.
Place the chicken breasts on the water-soaked plank and lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper. Spread the slather over the chicken, sealing it around the edges of the plank. Bring the plank outside.
Place the plank on the indirect side of the grill. Close the grill lid and cook for about 20 minutes. Open the grill and turn the plank 180 degrees and close the grill lid again. Continue to cook for about another 20 minutes or until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the chicken breast registers 160°F (75°C). Serve hot.
VARIATIONS:
Slathers are a great way to keep tender cuts of meat moist. You can slather pork tenderloin or fish fillets. The other slathers in our book can be easily changed out for one another, so be sure to try the Shallot Slather, Caper Slather, or the combination of all the ingredients—our Artichoke-Shallot-Caper Slather (page 28).
MOROCCAN CHICKEN WITH APRICOT AND PISTACHIO COUSCOUS
WE HAVE THE FRENCH FOREIGN LEGION TO THANK FOR THE MOROCCAN INFLUENCE in bistro cuisine. Honey-sweet and savory with spice, this chicken dish is a meal in minutes. Just add a Green Salad (page 70). The marinade is multifunctional: One half flavors the chicken; the other half dresses the couscous. Here’s looking at you, kid. It’s always good to oil the grill rack well before heating up the grill, but it’s especially important when you’re grilling foods that have been marinated in a sweet mixture, so they don’t stick.
SERVES 4
Moroccan Marinade
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch green onions, chopped, about 1 cup (225 g)
½ cup (125 ml) dry white wine
3 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 pound (450 g) boneless skinless chicken thighs
Apricot and Pistachio Couscous
½ cup (60 g) dried apricots, snipped into small pieces
½ cup (120 ml) hot water
1⅔ cups (290 g) instant couscous
½ cup (60 g) shelled roasted pistachios
For the marinade, whisk together garlic, green onions, wine, honey, olive oil, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon in a bowl. Set aside.
Place the chicken in a large sealable plastic bag and pour in half the marinade. Seal, toss to coat, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 8 hours, tossing occasionally. Cover and refrigerate the remaining marinade until ready to use.
Prepare a medium-hot fire in your grill.
For the Apricot and Pistachio Couscous, place the apricots in a small bowl, pour in hot water, and let soften for about 5 minutes. Prepare the couscous according to package directions. Drain the apricots. Toss the couscous with the reserved marinade, apricots, and pistachios. Set aside.
Remove the chicken from the marinade, discarding the marinade. Grill the chicken for 18 to 20 minutes, turning every 3 to 4 minutes, until the juices run clear when the chicken is pierced or until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of thigh registers 160°F (75°C). Serve the chicken on a bed of Apricot and Pistachio Couscous.
BRIE AND TAPENADE-STUFFED CHICKEN BREAST
LET THIS RECIPE BE YOUR BLUEPRINT TO CREATE VARIATIONS: FRENCH FETA AND roasted red bell peppers, Cheddar cheese and bacon, and chopped green onions and Boursin cheese are all delicious stuffing alternatives. Serve sliced rounds of the stuffed chicken with a cold salad the next day. When ready to serve, cut into ¼-inch (0.5-cm) slices and arrange on the salad of your choice.
SERVES 6
6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, each about 4 to 6 ounces (125 to 175 g)
Six ¼ -inch (0.5-cm) slices Brie cheese
3 tablespoons Black Olive Tapenade (page 59)
Olive oil for brushing
Fennel Salt (page 24)
Freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce (page 34)
Prepare a medium-hot fire in your grill.
Slit a lengthwise pocket horizontally along the side of each chicken breast and stuff each with one slice of Brie and 1½ teaspoons tapenade. Lightly coat chicken with olive oil and season to taste with Fennel Salt and pepper.
Grill the chicken for 6 to 7 minutes per side, turning once, or until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a breast (but not in the stuffing) registers 160°F (75°C). Let rest for 5 minutes, and then slice into ½-inch-thick (1 cm) slices on the diagonal. Serve with the Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce on the side.
VARIATION:
Make roulades by pounding chicken breasts to ½ inch (1 cm) thick. Place Brie and tapenade down the center of each flattened chicken breast. Roll up and secure with soaked toothpicks. Grill for about the same amount of time, making sure to quarter turn the roulades every 3 to 4 minutes and closing the grill lid when not turning the chicken.
SPATCHCOCKED CHICKEN WITH ROSEMARY SPRIGS
THE FRENCH HAVE A VERY INELEGANT BUT DESCRIPTIVE WAY TO DESCRIBE SPATCH-COCKED chicken. Poulet en crapaudine means chicken that is flattened like a toad. The chicken needs lots of grill attention, so prepare easy sides that you can make ahead like the Potato Gratin (page 98) or grill alongside the chicken like the Stir-Grilled Haricots Verts with Lemon Verbena Pistou (page 101).
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 whole chicken, 3½ to 4 pounds (1.75 to 2 kg)
Olive oil
2 lemons cut in half
Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (60 ml) Provençal Herb Rub (page 22)
5 or 6 fresh rosemary branches, 6 to 8 inches long (15 to 20 cm)
To spatchcock the chicken (or have your butcher do it), turn it breast-side down. With a pair of kitchen shears, cut along each side of the backbone, from neck to tail. Snip out the backbone completely. Also remove the wishbone. Turn the chicken breast-side up and press down to flatten. Place the flattened chicken in a large bowl and rub it all over with olive oil. Squeeze both lemons over the chicken, rubbing in the juice. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the Provençal Herb Rub. Marinate in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 to 3 hours.
Soak the rosemary branches in water to cover for at least 10 minutes (a little longer won’t hurt). Weigh them down with a saucer, if necessary, to keep them submerged.
Prepare a hot fire in your grill.
When ready to grill, remove the chicken from the marinade. Remove the rosemary branches from the water and shake off the excess water. Place the branches on the hot grill in such a way that they won’t fall through. Brush the underside of the chicken with a bit of olive oil and place skin-side up on top of the branches. Cover and cook for 10 to 15 minutes. Brush the chicken with olive oil and turn over so the skin side is against the rosemary. Cover and cook for another 10 to 15 minutes. If the chicken begins to turn too dark, pull it to the side of the grill briefly. If the rosemary begins to flame, remove it or spritz lightly with water. Continue to check and turn the chicken, brushing with more oil, if necessary, every 10 minutes or so until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh (but not against the bone) registers 160°F (75°C), about 40 minutes total. Serve hot.
TARRAGON-INFUSED GRILLED TURKEY BREAST
TARRAGON VINEGAR ADDS LOTS OF TANGY FLAVOR TO THIS BIRD. YOU NEED TO TEND to the turkey during most of this grilling process, so serve with made-ahead side dishes like Garden Tomato Salad (page 70) or Barbecued White Beans with Bacon and Pear (page 102). Save some of the reserved marinade to dress shredded cabbage for a delicious slaw. When grilling or smoking two turkey breasts (or roasts or briskets), make sure both pieces weigh about the same, so that the cooking time will be similar.
SERVES 8 TO 10
Suggested wood: Oak, apple, or grapevines
Tarragon Vinegar Marinade
⅓ cup (75 ml) dry white wine
⅓ cup (75 ml) tarragon vinegar
⅓ cup (75 ml) peanut oil
1 tablespoon poultry seasoning
1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons garlic salt
2 teaspoons dried tarragon
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 bone-in turkey breasts (each about 4 pounds/2 kg)
1 handful dry wood chips
For the Tarragon Vinegar Marinade, whisk together the wine, vinegar, peanut oil, poultry seasoning, pepper, garlic salt, tarragon, hot pepper sauce, and lemon juice in a bowl.
Place the turkey in a sealable plastic bag and pour in half the marinade. Seal, toss to coat, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 8 hours, turning occasionally. Cover and refrigerate the remaining marinade until ready to use.
Meanwhile, prepare an indirect hot fire with a kiss of smoke (page 15) in your grill and add your desired type of wood. (Replenish the wood chips or grapevines as necessary.)
Remove the turkey from the marinade, discarding marinade. When you see the first wisp of smoke from the wood, place the turkey breasts on the direct or hot side of the grill. Grill for 30 to 45 minutes, turning and basting with the reserved marinade every 5 minutes, then transfer the turkey breasts to the indirect side of the grill and close the grill lid. Smoke-roast for another 15 to 20 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted in the thickest part of a breast registers 160°F (75°C). Let rest for 5 minutes before carving.