Alternative Baker: Reinventing Dessert with Gluten-Free Grains and Flours - Alanna Taylor-Tobin (2016)

RUSTIC FRUIT DESSERTS

The first time I baked a pandowdy—an apple rhubarb recipe from a favorite Deborah Madison cookbook—I brought it to a friend’s house along with a pint of ice cream. We dished up bowls of fragrant, warm apples and tart rhubarb coated in spices and lidded with flaky pie dough, ice cream melting into puddles against the hot fruit, and tucked in. Jay broke the silence, proclaiming the dessert well worth the calories, and our friend’s eyes widened at the mention of the word. “But, this is FRUIT!” she declared. I thought back to the stick of butter I’d worked into the pastry dough, to the cup of sugar that went into taming the tart apples and rhubarb, and the pint of ice cream we’d demolished. “Yes,” I agreed. “It is fruit.”

This is why I love rustic fruit desserts. Though topped with buttery-sweet biscuits, cobbles, crumbles and batters, they are indeed made up in large proportion by good-for-you fruit. If you use peak-of-season fruit that bursts with sweetness and flavor, you needn’t do much to turn it into a wildly delicious dessert. A warm bowl of peach cobbler or blackberry crisp accompanied by a scoop of drippy ice cream, crisp pastry breaking against gooey fruit and silky custard: this is my happy place.

Here, alternative grains and flours add their unique tastes and textures to a variety of old-fashioned, fruit-based sweets. Buckwheat pairs up with winey blackberries for deep, dark crisps accented with lemon and spice. Marzipan and oat flour create a crunchy crumble topping to crown a pan of tender stone fruit screaming with almond flavor. Teff flour adds earthy sweetness to fluffy cobbler biscuits perched atop thick slices of bourbon-roasted peaches. A trio of alternative flours makes the flakiest pie dough to lid persimmon cranberry and apricot raspberry pandowdies. And millet lends buttery tenderness to ricotta biscuits for a twist on strawberry shortcake.

These desserts are all about the fruit, so use the ripest, most flavorful, locally grown versions you can find. And do have a pint or two of ice cream handy to top those warm, gooey fruit desserts; ice cream melting over tender pastry and mingling with thickened fruit is one of life’s greatest pleasures. After all, it’s fruit.

STRAWBERRY RHUBARB COBBLER WITH GINGER-AMARANTH BISCUITS

{SWEET RICE, AMARANTH, OAT}

There are many different cobblers in the world, with toppings ranging from cut biscuits to drop biscuits to a cakelike batter. I went through topping after topping trying to find a biscuit that baked up light and tender while standing up to juicy fruit. It wasn’t until my friend and recipe tester Caterina found an old recipe from Gourmet with 491 positive reviews (!) that employed the bizarre technique of adding boiling water to the biscuit dough, which gives the baking powder a head start before hitting the heat of the oven. We warmed the dairy, gave the dough the gentlest of handlings and voilà: cobbler perfection. Caterina also discovered that a combination of yogurt and heavy cream produces the fluffiest, most meltingly tender biscuits. This cobbler combines three of my favorite flavors in one gooey dessert: strawberry, rhubarb and ginger.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

FILLING

1 lb (450 g) trimmed rhubarb, sliced ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick on the diagonal (about 4 cups)

¾ lb (340 g) strawberries, hulled, quartered if large, halved if small (about 3 cups)

⅓ cup (70 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1 tbsp (7 g) cornstarch

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

BISCUITS

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 2 tsp (8 g) for sprinkling the biscuits

2 tbsp (25 g) lightly packed finely chopped crystallized ginger

⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour

⅓ cup (35 g) amaranth flour

⅓ cup (35 g) GF oat flour

1 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp fine sea salt

4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ¼-inch (6-mm) dice

¼ cup (60 ml) plain, whole-milk yogurt

3 tbsp (45 ml) heavy cream, plus 1 tbsp (15 ml) for brushing the biscuits

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Whipped Cream, for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C).

To make the filling, combine the rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large bowl, and toss until combined. Scrape the fruit and any juices into a 9-inch (23-cm) square or 10-inch (25-cm) round baking dish or the equivalent, and place the dish on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake for 20 minutes, until the juices bubble thickly.

While the filling bakes, make the biscuits. In a large bowl, combine the 2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar and finely chopped ginger, rubbing it between your fingers until the sugar is moistened. Add the sweet rice, amaranth and oat flours, baking powder and salt. Add the butter and work in with a pastry blender or your fingertips until broken down into the size of small peas. Chill until needed, about 10 minutes.

When the fruit is nearly done, combine the yogurt and 3 tablespoons (45 ml) cream in a small saucepan. Place over a medium flame and heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is hot and steamy, 1-2 minutes (don’t let it boil or it might separate). Quickly but gently stir the hot dairy into the butter/flour mixture, stirring just until combined, evenly moistened and no floury bits remain; do not overstir. Remove the fruit from the oven, give it a gentle stir to redistribute, then use a tablespoon to drop the batter onto the fruit, creating 10-12 rough mounds. Immediately dab and brush the tops with the remaining 1 tablespoon (15 ml) cream and sprinkle with the remaining 2 teaspoons (8 g) sugar.

Bake the cobbler until the biscuits are golden on top and the fruit is bubbling thickly, 18-25 more minutes. Let the cobbler cool for at least 10 minutes to allow the fruit to thicken up and the biscuits to finish baking from residual heat. Scoop into bowls and serve warm, topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream, or at room temperature with whipped cream. The cobbler is best within a few hours of baking, but leftovers can be refrigerated airtight for up to 2 days. Reheat before serving.

NOTE: Do be sure to trim away any rhubarb leaves, which can be toxic in large quantities. And if you don’t have access to fresh rhubarb, this works equally well with frozen; just let it thaw slightly beforehand and give the fruit a little extra cooking time.

STRAWBERRY RICOTTA SHORTCAKES WITH HONEY AND TARRAGON

{OAT, MILLET}

The key ingredient to this twist on a classic springtime treat is a good-quality whole-milk ricotta. Rich and creamy, with large, soft curds, this thick cheese is a far cry from the bland, grainy supermarket variety. First the ricotta creates a tender biscuit, then it gets whipped with heavy cream for a pillow on which to rest sliced strawberries coated in a nap of honey and fresh tarragon leaves. Despite the surprising taste of tarragon and ricotta, a bite of this dessert will still conjure up memories of classic strawberry shortcake. Basil or mint can stand in for the tarragon if none is to be found, or trade the strawberries for nectarines, plums or peaches.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

6 Lemon Ricotta Biscuits

2 cups (230 g) sliced ripe strawberries

2 tbsp (30 ml) honey, plus extra for drizzling

1 tbsp (3 g) loosely packed torn tarragon leaves, plus some pretty sprigs for garnish

½ cup (120 ml) heavy cream

⅓ cup (80 ml) whole-milk ricotta

2 tsp (8 g) organic granulated cane sugar

Prepare and bake the biscuits. Let cool completely.

Toss the sliced berries with the honey and tarragon and let sit for 10 minutes to macerate and draw out the juices.

In a large bowl with a whisk, or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whip together the cream, ricotta and sugar until the mixture forms soft peaks.

Use a serrated knife to slice the biscuits in half horizontally. Place the bottom halves on plates, top each with a large dollop of ricotta cream and place a mess of honeyed berries on top, letting some fall off onto the plate. Top with the biscuit lid, garnish with a drizzle of honey and a tarragon sprig or two, and serve.

VARIATION: BLACKBERRY RICOTTA SHORTCAKES WITH HONEY AND THYME

In place of the strawberries, use 2 cups (230 g) blackberries, halved if large. In place of the tarragon, use 1 tablespoon (3 g) loosely packed thyme leaves (preferably lemon thyme).

APRICOT RASPBERRY PANDOWDY

{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

This springy combination of apricots and raspberries topped with cutouts of pie dough and sprinkled with coarse sugar makes a sublime alternative to pie when you’re pressed for time. I especially like this pandowdy served barely warm and topped with a bit of crème fraîche. Do use apricots that are ripe and fragrant; Blenheims are the gold standard among apricots, but any small, flavorful variety will do the trick. If your apricots are on the tart side, increase the sugar to ½ cup (100 g).

MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS

TOPPING

½ recipe Pie Dough for Pandowdies GF oat flour, for dusting

1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream (for brushing the dough)

1 tbsp (10 g) coarse sugar (turbinado or demerara)

FILLING

1½ lb (680 g) apricots, pitted and quartered (about 5 cups)

2 cups (225 g) raspberries

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1 tbsp (15 ml) lemon juice

1½ tbsp (12 g) cornstarch

⅛ tsp salt

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Crème Fraîche, for serving

To make the topping, prepare and chill the dough as directed. On a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the dough into a round roughly ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Use a 2-inch (5-cm) fluted biscuit cutter to cut out rounds of dough, placed close together. Stack the dough pieces on a plate and chill until cold.

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).

To make the filling, in a large bowl, toss together the quartered apricots, raspberries, sugar, lemon juice, cornstarch and salt until well combined. Scrape the mixture into a 10-inch (25-cm) skillet or ceramic tart pan, a 9-inch (23-cm) deep-dish pie pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking dish. Lay the chilled squares of dough over the fruit, overlapping them slightly and leaving some gaps for steam to escape. Brush the dough with the milk and sprinkle with the sugar. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.

Bake the pandowdy until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling, 45-55 minutes. Let cool for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or crème fraîche.

The pandowdy is best freshly baked when the crust is crisp. It will keep for up to 1 day at room temperature, or up to 3 days refrigerated airtight. Reheat in a 375°F (190°C) oven before serving.

APRICOT, ALMOND AND BROWN BUTTER BUCKLE

{ALMOND, SWEET RICE, OAT}

Buckles are one of those nebulous, old-fashioned desserts, like cobblers, crisps and crumbles, that can take on many different forms. Recipes range from a spoonable dessert of fruit and batter to a more sliceable coffee cake of sorts topped with a generous amount of fruit. As either type of buckle bakes, the fruit sinks into the cake and the batter buckles up through it, hence the name. This version features a sturdy cake loaded with almond flour to drink up moisture from ripe apricots, which bake into creamy pockets in the heat of the oven, and the whole cake sings with the butterscotch taste of vanilla bean, brown butter and dark brown sugar. The texture lies somewhere between a coffee cake and a financier, moist and dense from the almond flour. Sweet rice and oat flours create a fine crumb and add structure, and a smattering of sliced almonds and sugar make a crisp topping.

Apricots are unique in that they become more tart as they cook, so use the ripest, sweetest ones you can find here. All stone fruits play well with almonds and brown butter, so feel free to give this a go with cherries, peaches or nectarines, or try the buckwheat plum variation below. For tips on browning butter.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE, 8 SERVINGS

8 tbsp (113 g) unsalted butter, plus 1 tsp for the pan

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

½ cup plus 2 tbsp (130 g) packed organic light brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 cup (120 g) blanched almond flour

½ cup (75 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup (25 g) GF oat flour

1 tsp baking powder

½ tsp fine sea salt

12 oz (340 g) ripe apricots (about 8 medium), pitted and halved

¼ cup (25 g) unblanched sliced almonds

1½ tbsp (15 g) organic granulated cane sugar

VARIATION: BUCKWHEAT, PLUM AND ALMOND BROWN BUTTER BUCKLE

Omit the apricots and use 4-5 medium-sized plums (¾ pound [340 g]). Cut the plums off the pits and slice into large wedges. Omit the oat flour and use ¼ cup (35 g) buckwheat flour. Top the batter with the plums placed with a cut side down in concentric circles over the batter and press into the batter slightly. Proceed with the recipe.

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9-inch (23-cm) round springform pan with the 1 teaspoon butter. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips and set aside.

Place the remaining 8 tablespoons (113 g) butter and vanilla pod and scrapings in a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat, swirling occasionally. After 3-5 minutes, the butter will foam up, turn golden and smell nutty, with brown flecks mingling with black vanilla bean seeds on the bottom of the pan. At this point, remove the pan from the heat. Pour the butter into a large heatproof bowl to stop the cooking, and let cool for 10 minutes. Remove the vanilla bean and discard.

Add the brown sugar to the browned butter, stir to combine, then beat in the eggs one at a time. Set a strainer over the bowl and add the almond, sweet rice and oat flours with the baking powder and salt. Sift the dry ingredients into the butter mixture, pushing through what you can and adding back any almond bits into the bowl. Stir to combine.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan; it will seem like too thin of a layer but will rise as it bakes. Place the apricots, cut side up, over the batter in concentric circles and press them into the batter slightly. Sprinkle with the almonds, then the sugar.

Bake the buckle until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out clean, 45-60 minutes. Be careful not to underbake: the cake has a lot of moisture to absorb from the juicy fruit. Remove from the oven and let cool until warm, then release the sides from the springform pan and let cool completely.

The cake is best the day of baking but will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day, or refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before enjoying.

SWEET CHERRY CACAO NIB CRISP

{OAT, SWEET RICE}

My friend and dance crony Steve once brought a bag of cacao nibs to a dance rehearsal because the packaging advertised them as a “superfood.” Before I could stop him, he shoved a handful in his mouth, and his face contorted with horror. Cacao nibs are simply cacao beans that have been roasted and broken up. They have bitter chocolate notes but aren’t sweet at all, so eating them plain is a little like chewing on coffee beans. I explained to Steve that the nibs were at their best when combined with other sweets, such as baked into cookies. Steve’s response was to hand me the bag. And that’s how I ended up with a boatload of cacao nibs.

Here, they fleck an earthy brown sugar and oat flour streusel that lids fresh cherries, gently sweetened and baked until jammy but still holding their shape. The topping turns crisp and toothsome in the heat of the oven and the place where streusel meets fruit stays a little gooey. Like all crisps, this is best slightly warm and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, though, as with all crisps, I’m not above eating spoonfuls straight from the fridge at all hours of the day.

MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS

FILLING

1½ lb (680 g) fresh sweet cherries, stemmed and pitted (about 4½ cups)

1 tsp cornstarch

2 tbsp (25 g) packed organic light brown sugar

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

TOPPING

½ cup plus 1 tbsp (65 g) oat flour

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (55 g) sweet white rice flour

2 tbsp (12 g) tapioca flour

½ cup (50 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

½ cup (100 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar

½ tsp fine sea salt

3 tbsp (20 g) cacao nibs, chopped

6 tbsp (85 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 tsp vanilla extract

1 tsp coarse sugar, such as demerara or turbinado, for sprinkling (optional)

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, for serving

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Place a 9-inch (23-cm) round or square pan on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment for easy cleanup.

To make the filling, in a large bowl, stir together the cherries, cornstarch, brown sugar and salt to combine. Let sit, tossing once or twice while you make the topping.

To make the topping, combine the oat, rice and tapioca flours with the oats, brown sugar, salt and cacao nibs in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Scatter the butter pieces over the top, sprinkle with the vanilla and mix on medium-low speed until the butter is incorporated and the mixture forms large clumps, 2-3 minutes. (Alternatively, use your fingers to work the topping together in a large bowl.)

Scrape the cherries and their juices into the prepared pan and sprinkle the topping over, squeezing some of it into hazelnut-sized clumps and letting the rest be loose. Sprinkle with the coarse sugar. Bake the crisp until the filling is bubbling thickly and the topping is golden, 35-45 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 10 minutes or to room temperature. Serve warm or at room temperature with vanilla ice cream. The crisp is best on the day of baking but leftovers will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

MAPLE BOURBON PEACH COBBLER WITH CINNAMON TEFF BISCUITS

{SWEET RICE, TEFF, OAT}

This cobbler is full of earthy flavors that contrast bright peaches: maple syrup, bourbon whiskey and biscuits redolent with teff flour and cinnamon sugar. Malty teff is the dominant flavor in these biscuits, and its slightly coarse texture stands up well to the juicy fruit. Adding hot yogurt and cream to the biscuit mixture right before it goes into the oven gives the dough an instant lift, baking it into craggy biscuits that positively melt in your mouth.

I like to leave the skins on the peaches not only because I’m lazy but also because they add color, help the fruit hold together, and soften into buttery tenderness in the heat of the oven. Serve this cobbler warm with a scoop of ice cream or at room temperature with whipped cream (sweetened or not). Be sure to source a certified GF whiskey if your cobbler eaters are highly sensitive to trace amounts of gluten; otherwise I like Bulleit bourbon here.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

FILLING

2 lb (905 g) ripe but firm peaches (about 6 medium-large peaches, 6 cups sliced)

¼ cup plus 1 tbsp (75 ml) GF whiskey (such as Queen Jennie) or bourbon

¼ cup plus 1 tbsp (75 ml) maple syrup

1 tbsp (6 g) cornstarch

¼ tsp fine sea salt

BISCUITS

⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour

⅓ cup (50 g) teff flour

⅓ cup (35 g) GF oat flour

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 2 tsp (8 g) for sprinkling the biscuits

1 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp fine sea salt

¼ tsp ground cinnamon, plus ⅛ tsp for sprinkling the biscuits

4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ¼-inch (6-mm) dice

3 tbsp (45 ml) heavy cream, plus 1 tbsp (15 ml) for brushing the biscuits

¼ cup (60 ml) plain, whole-milk yogurt

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Whipped Cream, for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C).

To make the filling, rinse the peaches and rub off the fuzz. Cut the peaches in half, then cut each half into 4-6 wedges. Place the wedges in a large bowl and drizzle with the bourbon, maple syrup, cornstarch and salt. Gently toss to coat the peaches evenly, then transfer to a 9-inch (23-cm) or (preferably) 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet or 9-inch (23-cm) square pan. Place in the oven and bake for 20 minutes, until the juices bubble thickly.

To make the biscuits, in a large bowl, combine the sweet rice, teff and oat flours with the 2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar, baking powder, salt and ¼ teaspoon cinnamon. Add the butter and work in with a pastry blender or your fingertips until broken down into the size of small peas. Chill until needed, about 10 minutes.

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 2 teaspoons (8 g) sugar with the remaining ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon. Place the 1 tablespoon (15 ml) cream in a second small bowl and have a pastry brush (or scrunched-up paper towel) nearby.

When the fruit is nearly done, combine the yogurt and remaining 3 tablespoons (45 ml) cream in a small saucepan. Place over a medium flame and heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture is hot and steamy, 1-2 minutes (don’t let it boil or it might separate). Quickly but gently stir the hot dairy into the butter/flour mixture, stirring just until combined, evenly moistened and no floury bits remain; do not overstir. Remove the fruit from the oven, give it a gentle stir to redistribute, then use a tablespoon to drop the batter onto the fruit, creating 10-12 rough mounds. Immediately dab and brush the tops with the cream and sprinkle with the cinnamon sugar.

SUMMER STONE FRUIT AND MARZIPAN CRUMBLE

{SWEET RICE, OAT}

Almond paste can be a divisive ingredient, with people either loving or loathing its intense flavor laced with bitter almond notes. I’m adamantly on the pro side; once I open a package I can’t resist breaking off nubs to eat straight. Sometimes called marzipan (though marzipan is actually a sweeter version designed to be shaped into edible decorations for cakes and the like), it pairs beautifully with stone fruit, which reside in the same family as almonds. When my countertop becomes overwhelmed with apricots, cherries, peaches and plums in the peak of summer, this catchall crisp turns them into an easy dessert. The almond paste keeps the topping extra crisp and gives it a bold almond flavor reminiscent of amaretti cookies. Do feel free to make this with any combination of stone fruit you like—you’ll need 6 cups (1 kg) of prepared fruit. And don’t miss the summer berry variation below.

MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS

TOPPING

6 oz (170 g) almond paste, crumbled (scant 1½ cups)

¼ cup (35 g) sweet white rice flour

¼ cup (25 g) GF oat flour

¼ cup (50 g) packed organic light brown sugar

½ tsp fine sea salt

4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, cubed

½ cup (55 g) sliced almonds

FRUIT

8 oz (225 g) cherries

8 oz (225 g) apricots

8 oz (225 g) plums

8 oz (225 g) peaches or nectarines

1½ tbsp (12 g) cornstarch

¼ cup (50 g) packed organic light brown sugar

¼ tsp fine sea salt

Vanilla Bean, Fresh Ginger or Crème Fraîche Ice Cream (here and here), for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C). Place a 10-inch (25-cm) ceramic tart pan or 9-inch (23-cm) pie or cake pan on a rimmed baking sheet.

To make the topping, combine the almond paste, sweet rice and oat flours, brown sugar and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on low speed, increasing to medium speed, until the almond paste is broken down into pea-sized bits, 3 minutes. Add the butter and continue to beat until the crumble clumps together and the butter is mostly incorporated, 2-3 minutes. Stir in the almonds just until combined. (Alternatively, in a food processor, pulse together the almond paste, flours, brown sugar and salt until the almond paste is broken into pea-sized bits, about ten 1-second pulses. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture begins to clump together, 15-20 pulses. Add the almonds and pulse just to combine, 1 or 2 short pulses.) Cover and chill until needed. (Can be made up to 2 days ahead.)

To prepare the fruit, pit the cherries. Halve the apricots, plums and peaches, remove their pits and cut them into large slices. You should have 6 cups of fruit. Toss the fruit with the cornstarch, brown sugar and salt until combined, and spread in the pan. Bake the fruit for 20 minutes; it will be hot and beginning to soften.

Scatter the chilled topping over the hot fruit. Bake the crisp until the topping is golden and cooked through and the fruit is bubbling vigorously, 30-40 more minutes. Let cool slightly, then serve warm with scoops of ice cream. The crisp is best shortly after baking, but will keep at room temperature for up to 1 day and refrigerated airtight for up to 3 days.

VARIATION: INDIVIDUAL BERRY MARZIPAN CRUMBLES

This variation pairs especially well with tangy Vanilla Bean Frozen Yogurt. Omit the stone fruit, using instead 6 cups (800 g) mixed summer berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, huckleberries). Hull the strawberries and halve or quarter. Halve large blackberries. Add 1 tablespoon (15 ml) lemon juice to the fruit mixture. If your berries are very ripe and sweet, reduce the brown sugar to 2 tablespoons (25 g). Divide the fruit among eight 8-ounce (225-g) ramekins or canning jars placed on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake the fruit for 15-20 minutes, then add the topping and bake for 20-25 more minutes. Pictured here and here.

BLUEBERRY PLUM COBBLER WITH CORN FLOUR BISCUITS

{SWEET RICE, CORN, OAT}

This cobbler carries the sunny flavor of corn flour in light, buttery biscuits perched atop indigo blueberry-plum compote. Adding hot yogurt and cream to the biscuit dough may seem like an odd instruction, but it’s the key to fluffy biscuits that bake up light, craggy and full of flavor. The biscuits taste like very moist, tender cornbread, the perfect foil for tart-sweet summer fruit. I especially like this cobbler at room temperature with a scoop of yogurt or whipped cream. Feel free to trade the plums for peaches, or the blueberries for black- or raspberries; all are lovely with stone fruit and corn.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

FILLING

1¼ lb (580 g) plums or pluots (about 8 medium, or 4 ½ cups sliced)

9 oz (255 g) fresh blueberries (2 cups)

⅓ cup (70 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1 tbsp (7 g) cornstarch

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

DROP BISCUITS

⅓ cup (50 g) sweet white rice flour

⅓ cup (40 g) corn flour

⅓ cup (35 g) GF oat flour

2 tbsp (25 g) organic granulated cane sugar, plus 2 tsp (8 g) for sprinkling the biscuits

1 tsp baking powder

¼ tsp fine sea salt

4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, in ¼-inch (6-mm) dice

¼ cup (60 ml) plain, whole-milk yogurt

3 tbsp (45 ml) heavy cream, plus 1 tbsp (15 ml) for brushing the biscuits

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream or Whipped Cream, for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 425°F (220°C).

To make the filling, halve the plums (or if they cling to the pit, cut them off of the pit) and cut them into ½-inch (1.3-cm) wedges. Rinse the blueberries and drain well. Combine the sliced plums, blueberries, sugar, cornstarch and salt in a large bowl, and toss to combine. Scrape the fruit and any juices into a 9-inch (23-cm) square or 10-inch (25-cm) round baking dish or the equivalent, and place the dish on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips. Place in the oven and bake for 20 minutes, until the juices bubble thickly.

While the filling bakes, make the biscuits. In a large bowl, combine the sweet rice, corn and oat flours with the 2 tablespoons (25 g) sugar, baking powder and salt. Add the butter, and rub with your fingertips or cut in with a pastry blender until the butter is somewhat worked in with lots of little pea-sized butter bits. Chill this mixture until needed, about 10 minutes.

BLACKBERRY BUCKWHEAT CRISPS

{BUCKWHEAT, SWEET RICE, OAT}

Blackberries always strike me as the most precious fruit. They are usually the last summer berry to come into season (besides huckles), and always command a high price. The fragile fruits don’t travel well, thus the ones you find in the market are often underripe and painfully tart. But venture into the Northern Californian woods come high summer, and you may well find thick tangles of brambles flocked with clusters of deep purple fruit. When left to ripen in the sun, the berries turn as sweet as candy.

Whether made with hand-foraged fruit or the store-bought variety (or even frozen berries), these crisps highlight blackberries’ untamed flavor. Bright lemon sets off inky fruit lidded with pebbles of rich, spicy streusel full of buckwheat’s earthy flavor. The buckwheat makes for a softer topping than most crisps, but I find the deep, dark flavor worth it. Topped with a scoop of Vanilla Bean or Crème Fraîche Ice Cream (here and here), they make a sumptuous late summer treat. And if you can’t find this many blackberries, try the Individual Berry Marzipan Crumbles; the topping stands up better to berries with a higher water content than sturdy blackberries.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

FILLING

4 cups (1 lb [450 g]) blackberries, rinsed and drained

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar

2 tsp (5 g) cornstarch

Finely grated zest from ½ medium lemon

2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

CRUMBLE

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (45 g) buckwheat flour

2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour

1 tbsp (6 g) tapioca flour/starch

½ cup (50 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

¼ cup (50 g) packed organic light or dark brown sugar

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ plus ⅛ tsp fine sea salt

4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Vanilla Bean or Crème Fraîche Ice Cream, for serving (optional)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C). Place six 4-ounce (112-ml) ovenproof ramekins or canning jars on a rimmed baking sheet.

To make the filling, in a large bowl, toss the blackberries with the brown sugar, cornstarch, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt until well combined. Divide the fruit among the ramekins. Bake until bubbling, 20-25 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the crumble. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the buckwheat, sweet rice and tapioca flours with the oats, brown sugar, cinnamon, salt and butter. Beat on medium-low speed until the mixture forms large, moist clumps, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, combine the ingredients in a large bowl and rub the butter in with your fingertips.)

When the fruit has baked, crumble the topping over, squeezing some into roughly hazelnut-sized chunks and leaving the rest loose—don’t pack it down. Bake the crisps until the topping is golden and the fruit is bubbling furiously, 20-30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 10 minutes. Serve the crisps warm or at room temperature, topped with ice cream if desired.

The crisps are best when freshly baked, but extras will keep, refrigerated airtight, for up to 3 days.

APPLE CRANBERRY POMEGRANATE CRISPS WITH BROWN SUGAR TEFF STREUSEL

{TEFF, SWEET RICE, OATS}

Crisps and tiny canning jars are a match made in heaven, particularly where dinner parties and potlucks are concerned. They’re easy to store and reheat, and having an individual portion just for you always feels a little bit special. Here, apples, cranberries and pomegranate arils form a sweet-tart base for crumbly streusel redolent with the flavors of earthy teff flour, molasses and a whiff of cinnamon. Roasting the fruit in the jars until bubbling lets the apples cook through, releasing steam in order to keep the topping crisp. The pomegranates add a bit of pop and, along with the berries, turn the filling a vibrant crimson. Teff flour forms the base for a delicate, richly flavored topping bound together with sweet rice and tapioca flours, and rolled oats add heft. Top with a scoop of ice cream and you’ll have yourself a cozy dessert, though these are equally good with a bit of plain yogurt for breakfast.

You’ll need 6-8 small 4-ounce (112-ml) canning jars to make these dainty servings, or you can make 4 larger servings in 8-ounce (224-ml) jars or ramekins. To feed a crowd, double the filling and streusel and bake in a 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet or 9-inch (23-cm) square pan, increasing the fruit baking time to 40-50 minutes, giving the fruit a stir, then adding the topping and baking for 20-25 more minutes.

MAKES 6-8 DAINTY SERVINGS

FILLING

1 lb (450 g) tart baking apples, such as Granny Smith (about 3 large)

½ cup (55 g) coarsely chopped fresh or frozen cranberries

½ cup (65 g) fresh or frozen pomegranate arils

2 tbsp (30 g) organic granulated cane sugar

1 tbsp (15 ml) fresh lemon juice

1 tsp cornstarch

STREUSEL

¼ cup (35 g) teff flour

2 tbsp (15 g) sweet white rice flour

1 tbsp (6 g) tapioca flour

½ cup (50 g) GF old-fashioned rolled oats

¼ cup (50 g) packed organic dark brown sugar

½ tsp fine sea salt

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

4 tbsp (56 g) cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, for serving

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F (175°C).

To make the filling, peel the apples, cut the flesh off the core and cut into ½-inch (1.3-cm) chunks. You should have about 3 cups.

In a large bowl, toss together the apple chunks, chopped cranberries, pomegranate arils, sugar, lemon juice and cornstarch until evenly combined. Pack the mixture into 6-8 small 4-ounce (112-ml) heatproof jars (such as canning jars), filling the jars to the top. Use your hands to really pack the fruit down; it will reduce as it cooks.

Place the jars on a rimmed baking sheet and cover loosely with a piece of foil. Bake until the fruit is bubbling vigorously, 25-35 minutes. Remove from the oven and uncover.

To make the streusel, in a medium-sized bowl, stir together the teff, sweet rice and tapioca flours with the oats, brown sugar, salt and cinnamon. Add the butter pieces and rub them into the flour mixture with your fingertips until the butter is blended in and the mixture forms large clumps. (You can also do this in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.)

When the fruit has cooked, divide the streusel evenly among the ramekins, pinching some of it into chunks the size of hazelnuts and leaving the rest loose—don’t pack it down. Bake the crisps until the streusel is golden, 18-22 more minutes.

Let the crisps cool slightly, then serve warm topped with scoops of vanilla ice cream. They are best shortly after baking when the streusel is crisp, but will keep at room temperature for up to a day, or chilled for up to 3 days. Reheat in a 350°F (175°C) oven before serving.

GINGERED PERSIMMON AND CRANBERRY PANDOWDY

{SWEET RICE, OAT, MILLET}

Fuyu persimmons are one of my favorite fruits. They’re mild and sweet, with a buttery-crisp texture that you can eat like an apple. The first Fuyus to come into the market each fall tend to be bland and underripe. After a couple of weeks, though, they begin to turn a deep orange and, when ripened until crisp-tender, they’re juicy and full of flavor. I usually eat at least one a day for the whole of fall, until they peter out in January. We toss them into salads, bake them into desserts and sprinkle them over yogurt and granola for breakfasts. Here, wedges of mild Fuyus complement tangy, astringent cranberries, whose strong personality they help to mellow, all laced with a bit of ginger and lemon zest for zip and lidded with cutouts of flaky pie dough. Scoop this into bowls and serve warm with vanilla or ginger ice cream for a dessert worthy of any fall festivity. Look for Fuyus that are bright orange and feel heavy for their size, and let them ripen at room temperature until they have just a hint of give, usually a few days in cool weather.

MAKES 6-8 SERVINGS

TOPPING

GF oat flour, for dusting

½ recipe Pie Dough for Pandowdies

1 tbsp (15 ml) milk or cream, for brushing the dough

1 tbsp (10 g) coarse sugar (turbinado or demerara)

FILLING

5 large or 7-8 smaller Fuyu persimmons (800 g [5 cups] sliced)

1 cup (100 g) fresh or frozen cranberries (halved if large)

¼ cup plus 2 tbsp (75 g) organic granulated cane sugar

Finely grated zest from 1 small or ½ large lemon

2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice

2 tbsp (25 g) lightly packed finely chopped crystallized ginger

⅛ tsp fine sea salt

1 tbsp (8 g) cornstarch

Vanilla Bean or Fresh Ginger Ice Cream (here and here), for serving

To make the topping, on a surface dusted lightly with oat flour, roll out the dough into a round roughly ¼-inch (6-mm) thick. Cut into 2-inch (5-cm) squares (or use a 2-inch [5-cm] fluted biscuit cutter to cut out rounds of dough, placed close together). Stack the dough pieces on a plate and chill until cold.

Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat to 375°F (190°C).

To make the filling, cut the tops off the persimmons, cut each one in half, and cut each half into 6-8 wedges, removing the seeds if there are any. You should have about 5 cups. In a large bowl, toss together the persimmon wedges, cranberries, sugar, lemon zest and juice, candied ginger, salt and cornstarch until well combined. Scrape the mixture into a 10-inch (25-cm) skillet or ceramic tart pan, a 9-inch (23-cm) deep-dish pie pan or a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking dish. Lay the chilled squares of dough over the fruit, overlapping them slightly and leaving some gaps for steam to escape. Brush the dough with the cream and sprinkle with the coarse sugar. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips.

Bake the pandowdy until the crust is golden and the fruit is bubbling, 45-55 minutes. Let cool for at least 10 minutes. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. The pandowdy is best freshly baked when the crust is crisp. It will keep for up to 1 day at room temperature, or up to 3 days refrigerated airtight. Reheat in a 375°F (190°C) oven before serving.

VARIATIONS

GINGERED PEAR AND CRANBERRY PANDOWDY

When persimmons are nowhere to be found, trade them out for an equal amount of ripe but firm pears, peeled, cored, and cut into wedges.

APPLE, PEAR AND QUINCE PANDOWDY

Omit the persimmons, cranberries and ginger, and make the filling with 2-3 large, firm-ripe pears (300 g), 2 large tart baking apples (300 g), and 4 halves poached quinces (300 g, all peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch (1.3-cm) thick wedges (6 cups prepared fruit). Add ½ teaspoon ground cardamom (or cinnamon) to the filling.